The Classics Moneta collection has swiftly established itself as the new benchmark of Frederique Constant’s offering. The Manufacture has chosen to give the collection a new mechanical, vintage-inspired charm. The new Classics Moneta Handwinding introduces a 38.5 mm case and is powered by a hand-wound movement developed by La Joux-Perret, delivering an impressive 63-hour power reserve. Its smoked salmon gradient dial is paired with a vintage-style alligator leather strap featuring a small-scale pattern, creating an elegant and distinctly neo-retro aesthetic. Produced in a limited edition of just 999 pieces, this new model is available for under €2,000.
The Classics Moneta: A Distinctive Case Design
No one can predict what will make a collection successful. Yet one thing is certain: since its launch in 2024, the Classics Moneta has made a striking impression. Its greatest strength lies in the geometry of its case. A watch case is typically distinguished by its shape or finishing. Here, the secret lies in the inner rehaut, whose profile is subtly sculpted with fluting reminiscent of the edge of a coin – the detail that inspired its name. The aesthetic is both familiar and distinctive, showcasing a traditional hallmark of fine watchmaking in an unexpected location on the case, creating a striking sense of originality.
The same balance defines this first mechanical edition, limited to just 999 pieces: a carefully judged harmony between the finest elements of contemporary watchmaking and the inspiration of the great classics of the last century.
The First Mechanical Movement
The first notable development is the introduction of the collection’s first mechanical movement. Produced by La Joux-Perret in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, and customised exclusively for Frederique Constant, it is a finely crafted hand-wound calibre. As La Joux-Perret and Frédérique Constant are both part of the Citizen Group, it can truly be considered an in-group movement.
Côtes de Genève Decoration and 63-Hour Power Reserve
Visible through the sapphire case back, the movement is adorned with Côtes de Genève decoration, a fitting tribute to Frederique Constant’s Genevan heritage. At its centre is the coat of arms that the brand has proudly displayed since 1988. On the opposite side of the movement sits the escapement, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) to ensure excellent chronometric stability. At the other end, part of the generously sized barrel is visible, providing the new Moneta with an impressive 63-hour power reserve. The choice of a hand-wound calibre not only allows its finishing to be fully appreciated, unobstructed by an oscillating weight, but also helps preserve the watch’s slim profile and neo-retro character, remaining true to the charm of the 1950s.
A Vintage-Inspired Smoked Salmon Dial
Among the watch’s vintage-inspired features, the new dial stands out most prominently. It showcases a subtle smoked salmon gradient, transitioning to deep black around the edges. This darker outer ring allows the applied, mirror-polished hour markers to stand out more clearly, ensuring excellent legibility. In keeping with its distinctly neo-retro character, the Moneta features two central dauphine hands, complemented by a small seconds display at 6 o’clock. Together, they follow the classic design codes of 1950s watchmaking, combining simplicity with timeless vintage elegance.
A Vintage-Style Alligator Leather Strap
Finally, Frederique Constant has taken this aesthetic exercise to its conclusion with a new black alligator leather strap featuring small-scale patterning, offering both superior suppleness and a patinated look. The result is a well-balanced composition that gives contemporary watchmaking a piece imbued with a delightfully vintage refinement and strong added value.
What happens when 70 years of watchmaking history is condensed into a 19mm mechanical jewel?
Blancpain answers with the Lady B, a distinctly contemporary interpretation of the idea that gave birth to the Ladybird collection in 1956.
Created under the leadership of Betty Fiechter, the first woman to lead a Swiss watch manufacture, the original Ladybird Bullet was built around an extraordinary ambition: create a remarkably small yet robust mechanical movement. Its R52/R55 calibre measured just 11.85mm in diameter and became the world’s smallest round mechanical movement produced in series, according to Blancpain’s historical account.
Seven decades later, Blancpain isn’t simply bringing that watch back.
It is rethinking the idea behind it.
From Ladybird Bullet to Lady B
The new Blancpain Lady B is explicitly described as a contemporary reinterpretation rather than a reissue of the 1956 Ladybird Bullet. Its design takes the original watch’s philosophy of miniaturisation and translates it into an entirely new architecture.
Its most immediately striking feature is its spherical case.
Measuring only 19mm in diameter, the case has a thickness of 13.20mm and a volume of just 2.9cm³. Rather than treating the watch as a flat object defined primarily by its diameter, Blancpain conceived Lady B in three dimensions.
The result is closer to a polished mechanical pebble or jewel than a conventional round wristwatch.
And that is precisely the point.
A Mechanical Heart in a Tiny Space
Inside the spherical case is Blancpain’s Manufacture Calibre 615, an automatic movement measuring 15.70mm in diameter and 3.90mm thick.
It contains 180 components and 29 rubies, operates at 3Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour, and delivers a 38-hour power reserve. Its plates are finished with Côtes de Genève, while a silicon balance spring is part of its evolution.
The movement’s compact architecture wasn’t simply placed inside an existing case.
The entire watch was developed around it.
Blancpain says the spherical case, sapphire crystal, polished rehaut, integrated strap passage and water resistance were developed in parallel to accommodate Calibre 615.
That makes the Lady B’s small dimensions more than an aesthetic exercise. They are the consequence of designing the watch around its mechanical core.
No Lugs. No Conventional Case Architecture.
Perhaps the most unusual aspect of Lady B is what it leaves out.
There are no traditional lugs.
Instead, the calf leather strap passes directly through an opening machined into the case. The passage measures just 10 × 1.6mm, and Blancpain describes the interior as micro-blasted so the leather can glide through it. The edges and knurling are finished by hand.
This creates a continuous visual relationship between the spherical case and the strap.
The watch doesn’t look as though a strap has been attached to it.
The strap appears to emerge from it.
Minimalism Is Doing the Heavy Lifting
The dial takes an equally restrained approach.
The warm beige opaline dial is identical across the stainless-steel and 18K red-gold versions. There is no gem-setting, allowing the dial surface, gold indices and reflections from the polished rehaut to define the visual character.
The applied stick indices are made from gold and measure only 1.82 × 0.39mm.
The hands remain deliberately simple, displaying only the hours and minutes.
This restraint is important because the case is already doing most of the visual talking. The polished spherical architecture creates changing reflections across its surface, while the clean dial prevents the watch from becoming visually busy.
Seven Straps, One Tiny Wrist Presence
The Lady B arrives on a double-tour calf leather strap, reinforcing its jewellery-like character.
There are seven colour options:
White
Beige
Mocha
Burgundy
Blue
Coral
Purple
The strap fits through the rear of the watch and can be changed easily.
The double-tour construction also changes how the 19mm case sits visually on the wrist. Instead of functioning simply as a tiny watch, the strap becomes an integral part of the design language.
Betty Fiechter: The Woman Behind the Original Vision
The Lady B story becomes considerably more interesting when you look back at Betty Fiechter.
Fiechter entered Blancpain’s workshop in Villeret as a 16-year-old apprentice in 1912. By 1933, she had become co-owner of the Manufacture, and she ultimately became the first woman to own and lead a Swiss watch manufacture.
Her contribution wasn’t limited to keeping the company operating through difficult economic and historical circumstances.
She also recognised the importance of mechanical watches for women.
Blancpain’s historical account notes that Fiechter believed women’s watches deserved the same ingenuity and mechanical integrity as other timepieces, making this area one of Blancpain’s defining strengths.
In 1956, the Ladybird emerged from this philosophy.
The Lady B now connects that history to Blancpain’s contemporary approach to mechanical miniaturisation.
The 1956 Technical Miracle
The original Ladybird Bullet’s R52/R55 calibre was only 11.85mm in diameter.
Its compact architecture incorporated a fifth wheel into the gear train and shock protection for the balance, allowing Blancpain to pursue extreme miniaturisation without abandoning robustness. The movement contained 133 individually machined components and operated at 3Hz.
The movement’s influence extended beyond Blancpain, with the press release noting that houses including Omega and Longines subsequently adopted it for their own creations. Its tiny footprint also enabled a wide variety of jewellery watches, bracelets, bangles, rings and pendants.
That history explains why the Ladybird is more than simply an old model in Blancpain’s archive.
Miniaturisation became a creative platform.
Lady B continues that idea in a radically different form.
Stainless Steel or 18K Red Gold?
Blancpain offers the Lady B in two case materials:
Stainless Steel
19mm diameter
13.20mm thickness
30m water resistance
CHF 9,500
18K Red Gold
19mm diameter
13.20mm thickness
30m water resistance
CHF 14,500
The watch is not a limited edition and is available through Blancpain boutiques and authorised retailers from 17 September 2026.
A New Chapter, Rather Than a Reissue
The Blancpain Lady B succeeds by resisting the obvious route.
It doesn’t attempt to reproduce the Ladybird Bullet line for line. Instead, it takes the central idea behind that watch, mechanical watchmaking on an extraordinarily small scale, and pushes it into a new design language.
A spherical 19mm case.
A tiny automatic movement.
An integrated double-tour strap.
A deliberately quiet opaline dial.
And a direct connection to Betty Fiechter and the Ladybird’s history.
Seventy years after the Ladybird first appeared, Blancpain’s smallest statement may also be one of its most conceptually interesting.
There are few watches in Rolex’s Professional collection that divide opinion quite like the Yacht-Master II. Introduced in 2007 as one of the world’s few purpose-built mechanical regatta chronographs, it stood apart with its programmable countdown timer and unmistakable blue Cerachrom bezel. While admired for its technical ingenuity, its bold styling was never universally embraced.
For 2026, Rolex has taken a fresh approach.
Rather than simply updating the outgoing model, the brand has comprehensively re-engineered the Yacht-Master II, refining its appearance, simplifying its operation and introducing a new movement designed specifically for competitive sailing. The result is a watch that remains unmistakably a Yacht-Master II while becoming significantly more intuitive and contemporary.
A Cleaner Look Without Losing Its Identity
The most noticeable transformation is the dial.
Rolex has removed much of the visual complexity that characterised the previous generation. The countdown scale has been relocated from the bezel to a precisely positioned flange surrounding the dial, creating a more balanced and easier-to-read display.
The dial itself now features a matte white lacquer finish that reduces reflections, while the Professional collection’s applied hour markers further improve readability in varying lighting conditions.
The familiar blue Cerachrom bezel remains, but its role has changed. Instead of carrying the countdown scale, it now functions as a traditional 60-minute graduated bezel, giving the watch a cleaner and more purposeful appearance.
Designed Around the Regatta Start
The Yacht-Master II has always been different from conventional chronographs.
Instead of measuring elapsed time after an event begins, it helps sailors prepare for one of the most crucial moments in competitive yacht racing: the starting sequence.
The new generation retains Rolex’s programmable countdown with mechanical memory and “on-the-fly” synchronization, allowing sailors to adjust the countdown during a race without interrupting its operation.
For 2026, Rolex has also simplified the user experience. The countdown is now programmed and controlled exclusively through the two side pushers, eliminating the Ring Command bezel interaction used on the previous generation and making operation more straightforward under race conditions.
New Calibre 4162 Powers the Next Generation
At the heart of the watch is the entirely new Rolex Calibre 4162, developed exclusively for the Yacht-Master II.
Building on the previous Calibre 4161, the new movement introduces a completely re-engineered countdown mechanism while incorporating several of Rolex’s latest movement technologies.
Among the upgrades are:
Chronergy escapement for improved energy efficiency
Rolex Côtes de Genève bridge finishing
Skeletonised oscillating weight
Enhanced reliability and precision
Self-winding mechanical architecture developed entirely in-house
Like every current Rolex, the movement meets the strengthened Superlative Chronometer standards introduced in 2026, ensuring exceptional precision and performance after casing.
Built for Life at Sea
The Yacht-Master II continues to feature Rolex’s robust Oyster architecture.
Key highlights include:
Specification
Details
Case Size
44 mm
Water Resistance
100 metres (330 feet)
Materials
Oystersteel or 18 ct Yellow Gold
Bracelet
Oyster Bracelet
Clasp
Oysterlock Safety Clasp
Extension
Easylink Comfort Extension (approximately 5 mm)
On the yellow gold model, Rolex also incorporates patented ceramic inserts inside the bracelet links, helping reduce wear while improving long-term flexibility and comfort.
Available Variants
At launch, Rolex offers two versions:
Oystersteel with a matte white dial and blue Cerachrom bezel
18 ct Yellow Gold with matching premium finishes
Both share identical functionality and the new Calibre 4162 movement.
EyesOnTime’s Perspective
The Yacht-Master II has always been one of Rolex’s most technically fascinating creations, but also one of its most polarising.
With the 2026 generation, Rolex appears to have listened carefully to years of collector feedback. The watch is noticeably cleaner, more legible and easier to operate, while preserving the unique regatta functionality that has always set it apart.
Rather than reinventing the concept, Rolex has refined it where it matters most. The redesigned countdown interface, the introduction of Calibre 4162 and the simplified aesthetics collectively make the Yacht-Master II feel more mature and purpose-driven than its predecessor.
Whether this translates into broader appeal among collectors remains to be seen, but from a technical and design standpoint, the new Yacht-Master II represents one of the brand’s most thoughtful evolutions in recent years.
What is new about the Rolex Yacht-Master II in 2026?
The 2026 model introduces a redesigned countdown display, a new Calibre 4162 movement, simplified countdown controls using only the side pushers, improved dial legibility and a cleaner overall design.
What is the Yacht-Master II designed for?
Unlike a traditional chronograph, the Yacht-Master II is specifically engineered for yacht racing and features a programmable countdown timer designed for regatta starting sequences.
Which materials are available?
The new Yacht-Master II is available in Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold.
The Ref. 5270 has long stood among the finest perpetual calendar chronographs ever produced by Patek Philippe. Now, with the introduction of the 5270P-016, the manufacture expands the family into a trio of striking platinum references, each sharing the same exceptional mechanics while expressing a unique character through colour.
At their core, the 5270P-015, 5270P-016, and 5270P-017 are identical masterpieces. Each is housed in a platinum case featuring the signature concave bezel and elegant two-tier lugs. Each is powered by the manually wound CH 29-535 PS Q calibre, combining a traditional column-wheel chronograph with a perpetual calendar enhanced by six patented chronograph innovations. And each retains the beautifully balanced dial layout that has become synonymous with the Ref. 5270.
Where they differ is in personality.
5270P-015: Understated Sophistication
The 5270P-015 pairs its platinum case with a sunburst charcoal grey lacquered dial that fades into a black-gradient rim. Combined with a black composite strap featuring cream-coloured stitching, it delivers the most understated and versatile expression of the collection.
The monochromatic palette gives the watch a contemporary, almost architectural presence, appealing to collectors who appreciate quiet elegance over visual drama.
5270P-016: The Modern Classic
The newly introduced 5270P-016 brings a vibrant blue lacquered dial into the collection, again framed by a subtle black-gradient edge. Blue stitching on the textured black composite strap perfectly complements the dial, creating a harmonious balance between sportiness and refinement.
Blue has become one of modern watchmaking’s most sought-after dial colours, yet Patek Philippe approaches it with remarkable restraint. The result is a watch that feels contemporary without chasing trends, allowing the legendary perpetual calendar chronograph to remain the true focal point.
5270P-017: A Bold Statement
For collectors seeking something more expressive, the 5270P-017 introduces a rich red lacquered dial with the same black-gradient finish. Paired with matching red stitching on the composite strap, it is undoubtedly the most daring interpretation of the trio.
While bold in appearance, the carefully executed lacquer finish and balanced dial architecture ensure that the watch remains unmistakably Patek Philippe, blending confidence with timeless elegance.
One Legendary Movement, Three Different Expressions
Across all three references, the familiar perpetual calendar display remains perfectly organised. The day and month appear through twin in-line apertures at 12 o’clock, while the date and moon phases occupy the display at 6 o’clock. White gold dauphine hands and a crisp white tachymeter scale ensure exceptional legibility against each dial colour.
Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the manually wound CH 29-535 PS Q calibre continues to showcase the artistry of traditional Swiss watchmaking through impeccable hand-finishing, refined decoration, and sophisticated engineering.
The EyesOnTime Perspective
With the 5270P-015, 5270P-016, and 5270P-017, Patek Philippe demonstrates how colour can transform the identity of an already iconic watch without altering its mechanical soul.
Whether one prefers the understated elegance of charcoal grey, the timeless appeal of blue, or the bold confidence of red, each reference celebrates the same enduring philosophy: exceptional complications, uncompromising craftsmanship, and design that transcends generations.
Rather than replacing one another, these three platinum references offer collectors three distinct interpretations of one of modern haute horlogerie’s greatest creations.
For more than a decade, the Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture has been one of the brand’s defining creations. Introduced in 2012, it combined an elegant world time complication with an accessible Swiss Manufacture movement, making high-end watchmaking more attainable for collectors. In a market where world time watches often command premium prices, the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture carved out a reputation for offering exceptional value without compromising on craftsmanship.
Now, Frederique Constant has given one of its most celebrated watches its most significant update yet. The latest generation introduces the brand-new Manufacture FC-719 calibre, a refined 40mm case, cleaner date-free dials, a longer 72-hour power reserve, fresh colourways, an interchangeable steel bracelet, and a dazzling gem-set limited edition.
Rather than reinventing an icon, Frederique Constant has carefully refined every aspect of it.
A Modern Evolution of a Horological Favourite
The Classic Worldtimer Manufacture has always stood apart for its elegant simplicity. It delivered one of horology’s most useful complications in an intuitive package, allowing wearers to read all 24 global time zones at a glance.
The newest version remains faithful to that philosophy while introducing meaningful upgrades that improve both aesthetics and everyday usability.
The redesigned collection now features:
New in-house FC-719 Manufacture movement
Extended 72-hour power reserve
Slimmer 40mm case
Streamlined date-free dial
New dial colours
New interchangeable five-link steel bracelet
Limited edition gem-set version with just 88 individually numbered pieces
Each update has been carefully considered, ensuring the watch feels contemporary without losing the timeless appeal that made it a cornerstone of Frederique Constant’s collection.
Introducing the New FC-719 Manufacture Calibre
At the heart of the new Classic Worldtimer Manufacture lies Frederique Constant’s 35th in-house Manufacture movement, the FC-719.
Developed entirely within the Maison’s Geneva workshops, the movement builds upon the reliability of its predecessor while introducing significant technical improvements.
The biggest advancement is its 72-hour power reserve, nearly doubling the previous 38-hour autonomy. This impressive increase comes from a longer mainspring and an optimised alloy composition, all while maintaining a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) for excellent timekeeping performance.
Remarkably, despite housing a larger mainspring, the movement fits inside a more compact 40mm case, showcasing the engineering efficiency behind its redesign.
World Time Made Beautifully Simple
World time complications can often appear intimidating, but Frederique Constant has long believed they should be intuitive enough for everyday use.
The Classic Worldtimer Manufacture simultaneously displays the time across all 24 global time zones, with a two-tone city ring allowing wearers to instantly distinguish between daytime and nighttime regions.
One of the most noticeable changes is the removal of the date display.
Without the date aperture interrupting the dial, the layout feels cleaner, more balanced and significantly easier to read. The result is a dial that highlights the world time complication rather than competing with it.
Whether travelling across continents or simply appreciating the artistry of mechanical watchmaking, the display remains elegant and remarkably practical.
One Crown Controls Everything
One of the defining characteristics of the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture is its incredibly user-friendly operation.
Unlike many complicated watches requiring recessed pushers or correction tools, every function is adjusted through a single crown.
This approach offers several practical advantages:
Faster and simpler adjustments
Fewer mechanical components susceptible to wear
Improved reliability
Enhanced water resistance of 5 ATM
Cleaner case proportions without additional correctors
Sometimes good engineering is less about adding more parts and more about having the restraint to remove them.
Handcrafted Finishing Through and Through
Turning the watch over reveals the FC-719 movement beneath a sapphire crystal caseback.
Frederique Constant continues its commitment to traditional Swiss finishing with decorative techniques that elevate the movement beyond pure functionality.
Highlights include:
Sunburst Côtes de Genève decoration
Circular graining on the bridges
Snailing on the atin-finished oscillating weight
Hand-assembled and individually regulated movement
Every calibre undergoes careful assembly within the Manufacture, where each component is pre-assembled before final adjustment. Precision tasks such as balance spring centring and regulation require microscopic accuracy, ensuring every movement leaves the workshop performing to exacting standards.
A Refined Exterior with Contemporary Appeal
The new generation also introduces a more compact 40mm stainless steel case, offering improved proportions and enhanced wrist comfort.
Its redesigned five-link stainless steel bracelet alternates satin-brushed and polished surfaces, delivering a refined look while remaining suitable for daily wear. The interchangeable system also gives owners additional flexibility to personalise the watch.
Frederique Constant has also refreshed the collection with new dial colours that complement the cleaner, date-free layout while maintaining the Classic Worldtimer’s unmistakable identity.
For collectors seeking something even more exclusive, the Maison introduces a spectacular gem-set edition limited to 88 individually numbered pieces, adding a luxurious interpretation to one of its most recognisable creations.
Swiss Manufacture Watchmaking at Exceptional Value
Frederique Constant has spent nearly four decades pursuing a mission that remains surprisingly rare in modern watchmaking: creating true Swiss Manufacture timepieces while keeping them accessible to enthusiasts.
The new Classic Worldtimer Manufacture embodies that philosophy perfectly.
From the newly developed FC-719 movement and extended power reserve to its simplified operation, refined proportions and elegant finishing, every improvement reflects thoughtful engineering rather than unnecessary complexity.
For seasoned travellers, frequent flyers and collectors alike, it remains one of the most compelling world time watches available today, proving that genuine Manufacture craftsmanship doesn’t always have to come with an unreachable price tag.
Technical Specifications
Movement: Manufacture FC-719 Automatic Functions: Hours, Minutes, World Time (24 Time Zones) Power Reserve: 72 Hours Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 vph) Case Size: 40mm Water Resistance: 5 ATM Bracelet: Interchangeable Five-Link Stainless Steel Bracelet Caseback: Sapphire Crystal Exhibition Special Edition: Gem-set Limited Edition (88 Pieces)
Hublot continues to redefine transparent watchmaking with the launch of the limited-edition Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue, pairing its signature sapphire expertise with the impressive Meca-10 manufacture movement.
There are watches that tell time, and then there are watches that make a statement before you even glance at the dial. The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue belongs firmly in the latter category. Limited to just 100 pieces worldwide, this latest creation showcases everything Hublot has become synonymous with over the past decade: innovative materials, bold engineering and contemporary design.
Hublot’s Mastery of Sapphire Continues
Working with sapphire is no simple feat. Renowned for its exceptional hardness and transparency, sapphire is one of the most demanding materials in watchmaking. While many brands have experimented with it, Hublot has consistently expanded its possibilities, introducing coloured sapphire cases that combine technical complexity with striking aesthetics.
The Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue captures the calm brilliance of a summer sky through its fully polished 44mm sapphire crystal case. Its transparent construction allows light to flow through every angle of the watch, giving it a presence that constantly changes depending on its surroundings. Titanium H-shaped screws secure the sapphire bezel, while a structured sky-blue rubber strap completes the distinctive monochromatic look.
The Meca-10 Movement Takes Centre Stage
Inside the transparent case is one of Hublot’s most celebrated in-house calibres: the HUB1201 Meca-10.
Originally introduced in 2016, the Meca-10 broke away from conventional movement architecture. Rather than hiding the mechanics beneath the dial, Hublot designed the movement to become the visual centrepiece of the watch. Inspired by mechanical construction systems, its fully skeletonised architecture reveals every functional component.
The manually wound movement consists of 223 components, delivers an exceptional 10-day (240-hour) power reserve, and uses two parallel mainspring barrels to maintain consistent energy delivery. One of its most distinctive features is the innovative rack-and-pinion power reserve display that moves horizontally across the movement, reinforcing the industrial aesthetic that has become synonymous with the Meca-10 collection.
Transparency That Reveals Every Detail
The appeal of the Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue extends beyond its sapphire case. Its matte sky-blue skeleton dial, matching movement bridges and sapphire case-back ensure that the watch remains visually captivating from every angle.
Instead of concealing its mechanics, the watch celebrates them. Every gear, bridge and wheel becomes part of the overall design, creating a fascinating interplay between engineering and aesthetics. It is a reminder that modern haute horlogerie is as much about visual storytelling as it is about precision.
Built with Confidence
The Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue is more than an exercise in design. It also reflects Hublot’s confidence in its manufacturing capabilities.
Eligible models purchased from 1 January 2026 benefit from Hublot’s 5+5 warranty programme, providing a five-year standard warranty with the possibility of extending coverage to ten years through the Hublotista programme. It is among the most comprehensive warranty offerings in contemporary luxury watchmaking and reinforces the brand’s trust in its products.
Limited to Just 100 Pieces
Exclusivity remains central to the appeal of this release.
The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue is limited to 100 pieces worldwide and will be available through selected Hublot boutiques, authorised retailers and the brand’s official online store. The watch is priced at USD 84,300, reflecting both the complexity of its sapphire construction and the sophistication of its in-house movement.
Final Thoughts
Few brands have embraced sapphire as confidently as Hublot. Over the years, the manufacture has transformed what was once considered an experimental material into one of its defining signatures. The Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue continues that journey, combining a transparent sky-blue sapphire case with the technically impressive Meca-10 movement in a package that is both futuristic and unmistakably Hublot.
For collectors who appreciate avant-garde watchmaking, architectural movements and limited-edition craftsmanship, this latest Big Bang demonstrates exactly why Hublot remains one of the industry’s most daring innovators.
Luxury watchmaking often celebrates either technical innovation or artistic beauty. With the new ZENITH DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II, the Swiss manufacture proves that the two can coexist beautifully.
Limited to just 25 pieces worldwide, this latest edition of the DEFY Extreme brings together one of the most advanced mechanical chronograph movements in production with one of nature’s most captivating gemstones. The result is a watch that feels equally at home in a collector’s showcase or on the wrist of someone who appreciates cutting-edge engineering.
A Study in Contrasts
At first glance, the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II is impossible to ignore.
Its bold 45mm case combines forged carbon with titanium, creating a lightweight yet incredibly robust construction. Unlike polished metals that reflect light, the matte texture of forged carbon absorbs it, giving the watch a stealth-like presence that perfectly suits the aggressive architecture of the DEFY collection.
Against this dark backdrop, the lapis lazuli chronograph counters become the undeniable focal point.
Every slice of lapis lazuli is naturally unique, with tiny pyrite inclusions shimmering like stars across a deep blue sky. No two watches will ever display exactly the same pattern, making each piece subtly individual.
Powered by the Legendary El Primero 9004
Beneath the openworked dial sits one of ZENITH’s most impressive achievements: the El Primero 9004.
The movement features two completely independent escapements, each designed for a specific purpose.
One escapement beats at 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour) to keep precise time, while the second operates at an extraordinary 50 Hz (360,000 vibrations per hour) exclusively for the chronograph.
This innovative architecture enables the central chronograph hand to complete one full rotation every second, allowing elapsed time to be measured with remarkable precision to 1/100th of a second.
It’s a mechanical spectacle that remains one of the defining features of the DEFY Extreme collection.
Built for Performance, Designed for Everyday Wear
While the movement is undeniably technical, the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II has also been designed with versatility in mind.
The watch is supplied with a black rubber strap featuring a folding clasp, alongside a black high-performance Velcro strap. Thanks to ZENITH’s integrated quick-change strap system, switching between the two requires no tools, making it easy to adapt the watch for different occasions.
The carbon and titanium construction also keeps the substantial 45mm case surprisingly lightweight, while its 20 ATM water resistance ensures it’s ready for active everyday use.
A Collector’s Edition
The DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II isn’t simply another colour variation.
By pairing forged carbon, titanium and natural lapis lazuli with one of the world’s most technically advanced mechanical chronographs, ZENITH has created a watch that celebrates both innovation and individuality.
With only 25 examples available worldwide, this is a timepiece destined for collectors who appreciate rare materials, exceptional engineering and distinctive design.
Technical Specifications
Reference: 10.9102.9004/51.I200
Limited Edition: 25 pieces
Case: 45mm Carbon & Titanium
Movement: El Primero 9004
Chronograph Accuracy: 1/100th of a second
Frequency: 5 Hz timekeeping / 50 Hz chronograph
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Water Resistance: 20 ATM
Dial: Openworked with natural lapis lazuli counters
Straps: Black rubber strap and black Velcro strap with interchangeable system
Final Thoughts
The DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II demonstrates that modern watchmaking isn’t only about improving performance. It’s also about creating emotion through materials, craftsmanship and thoughtful design.
Its forged carbon case speaks to contemporary engineering, while the natural beauty of lapis lazuli adds warmth and individuality. Combined with the remarkable El Primero 9004 movement capable of measuring time to 1/100th of a second, this limited edition showcases exactly what makes ZENITH one of the industry’s most innovative watchmakers.
For collectors seeking something that blends mechanical excellence with unmistakable character, the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II stands out as one of the most compelling releases of the year.
With the launch of the Royale Paris Chrono, Pequignet Manufacture opens an important new chapter in its history. Presented as the Maison’s first chronograph, this new creation is the result of several years of development and reflects the brand’s commitment to mechanical innovation, timeless design, and French watchmaking excellence.
Building on the success of its manufacture calibres, Pequignet has developed the Calibre Initial® Chronograph, bringing one of watchmaking’s most celebrated complications into the Royale Paris collection for the very first time.
The result is a chronograph that combines technical sophistication with the refined aesthetics that have become synonymous with modern Pequignet watchmaking.
The First Chronograph in the Royale Paris Collection
The Royale Paris Chrono represents a significant milestone for Pequignet as the first chronograph ever introduced within the Royale Paris collection.
While remaining faithful to the design language of the collection, the watch introduces a new level of functionality through a thoughtfully executed bi-compax chronograph display.
Available with either blue or red chronograph counters on an opaline dial, the Royale Paris Chrono delivers a contemporary interpretation of a classic complication while preserving the elegance expected from the collection.
The dial displays:
Small seconds at 3 o’clock
30-minute chronograph counter at 9 o’clock
The layout offers excellent legibility while maintaining visual balance.
Distinctive Royale Paris Design
The Royale Paris Chrono retains the signature features that define the collection.
Its stainless steel case features Pequignet’s distinctive attached lugs, creating a strong architectural identity and a refined presence on the wrist.
A more sculpted profile introduces a concave, gouge-shaped cut-out that extends around the dial, creating visual depth and reinforcing the watch’s contemporary character.
The result is a chronograph that feels elegant rather than overtly sporty, making it suitable for both formal and everyday wear.
The Calibre Initial® Chronograph
Powering the watch is the new Calibre Initial® Chronograph, the fifth movement developed by Pequignet Manufacture.
The movement is based on the Calibre Initial® architecture and incorporates a newly developed chronograph mechanism. To bring this complication to life, Pequignet collaborated with a renowned Swiss specialist in high-end watch complications.
This partnership combines French movement development and manufacturing expertise with specialist chronograph know-how, resulting in a movement that reflects the strengths of both traditions.
The Calibre Initial® Chronograph represents an important evolution of Pequignet’s manufacture capabilities and demonstrates the brand’s continued investment in movement development.
A Robust Cam-Operated Chronograph
Rather than using a column-wheel architecture, the Royale Paris Chrono employs a cam-operated chronograph system.
This design delivers crisp and reliable operation while offering excellent resistance to shocks and everyday use. The architecture aligns with the watch’s practical philosophy, prioritising durability and dependable performance.
Another notable technical feature is the offset stem system, which allows the crown and chronograph pushers to align harmoniously along the side of the case, contributing to the watch’s balanced appearance.
French Manufacturing Excellence
True to Pequignet’s manufacturing philosophy, the components used in the Royale Paris Chrono are sourced locally.
As with the Maison’s other manufacture movements, components are sourced within an 80-kilometre radius of the manufacture in Morteau, France. This localised approach reflects Pequignet’s commitment to preserving regional expertise and maintaining close relationships with specialist suppliers.
The Royale Paris Chrono therefore represents not only a technical achievement but also a celebration of contemporary French watchmaking.
Why the Royale Paris Chrono Matters
The luxury chronograph category is dominated by established Swiss names, making the Royale Paris Chrono particularly noteworthy.
It offers collectors:
The first chronograph in the Royale Paris collection
The fifth manufacture movement developed by Pequignet
Distinctive French design language
A locally sourced manufacturing approach
A sophisticated blend of French and Swiss watchmaking expertise
A refined alternative to traditional sports chronographs
For enthusiasts seeking something beyond the mainstream, the Royale Paris Chrono presents a compelling proposition.
Final Thoughts
The Pequignet Royale Paris Chrono is far more than a new model within the collection. It marks the arrival of the Manufacture’s first chronograph and demonstrates the brand’s ability to tackle one of watchmaking’s most iconic complications while remaining true to its French identity.
With its elegant architecture, refined dial execution and new Calibre Initial® Chronograph movement, the Royale Paris Chrono stands as one of the most significant releases in Pequignet’s modern history.
For collectors who appreciate independent watchmaking, technical development and distinctive design, the Royale Paris Chrono is a chronograph well worth discovering.
For decades, the world of watch collecting has been defined by legacy, lineage, and a certain unspoken exclusivity. TickTockBelles doesn’t attempt to disrupt that narrative—it simply rewrites it with quiet precision. Founded by Deborah Wong and Stephanie Soh, the platform brings a new kind of authority to horology—one that feels instinctive rather than inherited, personal rather than performative.
What Deborah and Stephanie have built isn’t about claiming space—it’s about redefining it. Their approach to watch collecting feels intimate, self-assured, and deeply considered, where every piece carries a story and every conversation invites more voices in. In an industry that has often spoken at women, TickTockBelles speaks with them—cultivating a community that is as discerning as it is inclusive.
We spoke to Deborah Wong and Stephanie Soh about what sparked TickTockBelles, the subtle biases still shaping the industry, and what needs to change for the next generation of collectors.
What triggered the creation of TickTockBelles—was it a gap you saw, or a barrier you experienced?
The founding of TickTockBelles in 2022 was triggered by a combination of a gap in the market for a female centric watch community and barrier in the industry for gender inclusivity.
The Gap (Lack of a female centric watch community): As frequent recipients of questions from other women looking for timepieces guidance, we identified a need for a female-focused platform to support interest in watch collecting.
The Barrier (Lack of advocates for gender inclusivity): Depending on the market, we observed that the luxury watch space was historically imbalance in gender inclusivity. Female watch enthusiasts may be perceived as uninterested in mechanical complications or craftsmanship. Sales personnel frequently focus on promoting trends or jewel watches to female clientele, rather than the technical appreciation of the timepiece, which created a less than conducive retail experience for serious women collectors.
In one sentence: what does TickTockBelles stand for that the watch industry currently doesn’t?
TickTockBelles stands for a dedicated, safe, and inclusive community that fosters genuine horological passion among women without the ego, hype, or gender bias often found in the traditionally male-dominated watch industry.
What’s the most subtle form of bias women face in watch collecting today?
The Most Subtle Form of Bias: “Dismissive Retail Experiences”
Mansplaining and Underestimation: The most subtle, yet pervasive, bias is the assumptions that female collectors lack technical knowledge, leading to “mansplaining” about watch complications.
Superficial Targeting: Brands and sales personnel frequently focus on selling to women based on aesthetics—like the number of diamonds or current trends—rather than engaging them in the technical, mechanical, or heritage-worthy aspects of a timepiece.
The “Secondary” Customer: There is a lingering, subtle assumption in many retail environments that women are browsing for gifts or luxury accessories, rather than serious, self-purchasing collectors.
What’s one myth about women collectors that you actively push back against?
“Women Only Buy Smaller, Quartz Watches for Fashion”
The Myth: It is commonly believed that women prefer, or should only wear, small, quartz-powered, or highly embellished “ladies’ watches,” and that these watches are worth less than men’s watches.
The Reality/Pushback: Women are increasingly aware about what type of watches suit their lifestyles and personalities. They are fast developing keen interests in the in mechanical aspects of the timepieces. There is also budding trends of women appreciating independent watchmaking.
No Gender for Horology: We advocate that watches should not bear gender label which commonly give rise to the notion of “male” watch is better than a “female” watch. The appreciation should lie in the movement, design, and history etc.
The “Small is the New Big” Trend: We embrace a trend where “tiny is the new big” while also appreciating larger, historically male-targeted timepieces.
Have you ever changed someone’s perception of women in horology through this platform? Tell us that moment.
Over the last 3 plus years, we were frequently been invited by watch brands, independent watchmakers and microbrands to host female centric get-togethers. This is a prominent shift and a testament that the industry recognises women possesse independent spending capabilities and decision making when it comes to watch acquisitions.
We are most flattered when male collectors feedback that they often recommended their female friends and family to be a part of TickTockBelles community should they are keen to learn more about watch appreciation.
In recent times, we also have male collectors enquiring if they could join our community activities and get-togethers. We are humbled that our advocy has brought about perception shift to more masses and not just confined to a single individual.
What kind of watch conversations excite you the most right now—design, mechanics, or cultural storytelling?
The conversations that excite us most right now are those surrounding cultural storytelling and the broader emotional connection women have with watches. While we appreciate design and mechanics, our primary focus is on shifting the narrative within the watch industry. We are particularly energized by:
Breaking Gender Barriers: We are passionate about inclusivity and to encourage women to pursue watch collecting as a serious hobby and passion.
Community and Connection: We find great excitement in meeting fellow female enthusiasts globally and building a safe space where women can discuss watches at the most basic level. Conversations on how to build authentic engagement and culture within watch community is critical.
Legacy and Personal Narratives: Conversations often center on watches as heirlooms and the “legacy planning” aspect of collecting, where a timepiece’s value is tied to the personal stories it will carry for the next generation.
Which brand or move in the industry recently made you think, “okay, this is progress”?
A move that signals true progress in the watch industry is when brands move beyond gender stereotypes — such as simply adding diamonds or reducing watch case sizes — and instead focus on authentic inclusion and mechanical substance for women. Some key examples and perspectives on progress include:
Gender-Inclusive Marketing: When retailers and brands host female-centric activities, encouraging women to explore watches for their mechanical and artistic value rather than just as accessories.
Mechanical Substance over Aesthetics: When heritage brands invest in both movement and aesthetics for women’s watches, rather than defaulting to quartz movements for the female segment with the excuses that they fit better in smaller watches.
Collaborations and Independent Brands: Our collaboration with the microbrand Awake Concept on the “Cotton Candy” watch—a piece with a hand-mixed lacquer dial that attracted both female and male collectors—represents a move toward gender-neutral appreciation and artistic innovation.
Brands to Watch: Parmigiani Fleurier
What’s one trend in watch culture you think is overrated — or even harmful?
There are two such prominent trends currently – Chasing the hype, and watch as investments which could lead to potential pitfalls:
Financial Loss: Purchasing a watch simply because it is popular especially if they are acquired at premium in secondary markets. If the market shifts South, there may be financial losses.
“Expensive Regret”: If you no longer like the timepiece once the hype dies down, the purchase becomes a regret.
Lack of Personal Affinity: We believe in collecting based on a genuine emotional connection and personal style rather than market trends.
If you had the power to influence one real change across watch brands globally, what would it be?
The one real change we would like to continue to influence is for watch brands to move past the “shrink it and pink it” mentality. Some integrated shifts in how global brands operate could include de-gendering watches, technical inclusion, incorporate form and function as part of brand conversation.
When a young woman discovers watches today, what do you hope her first experience feels like?
We hope for the experience to be inclusive and a discovery of self-expression. TickTockBelles community friends are always eager to help each other to find a timepiece that we have a genuine affinity for. Something that speaks to our hearts, a reminder of a personal story or even to commemorate a milestone in life. We hope she feels empowered to choose unconventional shapes, vintage pieces, or even “men’s” sports models based on what fits her lifestyle and future as a potential heirloom.
The Shift Ahead
If the future of horology is about perspective, not prescription, TickTockBelles is already shaping it. Deborah Wong and Stephanie Soh aren’t just expanding the conversation—they’re making it more thoughtful, more open, and ultimately, more real.
Photo Credits: Deborah Wong & Stephanie Soh
Timepieces: From the private collections of Deborah Wong & Stephanie Soh
The new Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 is one of the most technically fascinating releases from Watches & Wonders 2026 — a Grand Complication that combines astronomical watchmaking with mechanically calculated sunrise and sunset indications.
While most high-complication watches focus on perpetual calendars, tourbillons, or chiming mechanisms, the Celestial collection explores something far rarer: the relationship between time and the cosmos itself.
With its rotating sky chart, sidereal time display, moon phase indication, and newly integrated sunrise and sunset functions, the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 pushes the manufacture deeper into astronomical horology while introducing one of the boldest modern case designs the brand has produced in recent years.
A Different Kind Of Grand Complication
The Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 is not a watch designed around traditional complication hierarchy.
Instead of emphasizing elapsed time, acoustic complications, or calendar programming, the watch visualizes astronomical motion through a continuously rotating celestial display that recreates the visible night sky above Geneva.
At the center of the dial sits a sapphire sky chart displaying the movement of stars and the Milky Way as they appear from Earth. The display rotates according to sidereal time — a system based on Earth’s rotation relative to distant stars rather than solar time.
This is what gives the Celestial collection its unique identity.
It does not simply tell time.
It visualizes the passage of the heavens.
Despite the enormous amount of information displayed, the dial remains surprisingly legible. Patek Philippe avoids clutter by layering indications carefully across rotating discs, peripheral scales, and integrated apertures rather than overwhelming the wearer with traditional sub-dials.
The result feels immersive rather than chaotic.
The New Sunrise And Sunset Complication
What makes the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 especially important within the Grand Complications collection is the addition of sunrise and sunset indications.
Mechanically displaying sunrise and sunset times is considerably more difficult than displaying standard calendar information because those times constantly shift throughout the year based on Earth’s axial tilt and seasonal positioning.
The 6105G-001 calculates those changes mechanically using a dedicated cam-based system calibrated specifically for Geneva’s geographic latitude.
This allows the watch to continuously display changing daylight patterns across the calendar year without requiring electronic assistance.
For collectors of astronomical watches, this represents a significant advancement.
Even more impressive is the way Patek Philippe engineered the adjustment system. Astronomical watches are traditionally difficult to correct because modifying one indication can disrupt the synchronization of others. The Celestial 6105G-001 has been developed to allow time adjustments while maintaining harmony between civil time and astronomical displays.
That engineering discipline is where the watch truly separates itself from many high-complication pieces.
A Bold Modern Case Design
The Celestial 6105G-001 also introduces a noticeably more contemporary aesthetic than many traditional Patek Philippe Grand Complications.
Crafted in white gold and measuring 47mm, the case features an integrated lug structure with engraved detailing along the flanks and a highly architectural profile. It feels more sculptural than classical — a surprising direction for a brand often associated with conservative elegance.
And yet the design works.
Rather than relying on vintage nostalgia, the watch embraces a modern technical identity that complements the complexity of the astronomical display.
The large dimensions are necessary to accommodate the layered sky chart system, but the integrated case construction helps distribute visual weight effectively on the wrist.
This is not a discreet dress complication.
It is a statement piece designed for collectors who appreciate mechanical artistry as much as traditional refinement.
Inside The Caliber 240 C LU CL LCSO
Powering the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 is the self-winding Caliber 240 C LU CL LCSO, an evolved version of the manufacture’s ultra-thin micro-rotor movement architecture.
The movement coordinates multiple astronomical calculations simultaneously, including:
Sidereal time
Rotating sky chart
Lunar orbit
Moon phases
Sunrise indication
Sunset indication
Despite the complexity, the micro-rotor construction allows the movement to remain relatively slim while preserving the elegant proportions expected from a Patek Philippe Grand Complication.
The movement also incorporates the brand’s advanced regulating technologies, including the Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring, helping ensure long-term precision and reliability.
More importantly, the movement demonstrates what Patek Philippe does best: combining extraordinary mechanical complexity with refinement rather than excess.
Nothing about the watch feels unnecessarily theatrical.
Every indication serves a genuine horological purpose.
Why The Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 Matters
Luxury watchmaking in recent years has largely revolved around heritage-inspired designs and incremental updates to established icons.
The Celestial 6105G-001 takes a very different approach.
It is ambitious, unconventional, highly technical, and unapologetically niche.
That is precisely why it stands out.
Rather than revisiting archive references or leaning on nostalgia, Patek Philippe has created a watch that explores new territory within modern astronomical watchmaking while still maintaining the finishing standards and mechanical legitimacy collectors expect from the manufacture.
The watch reminds collectors that innovation in haute horlogerie does not always need to be louder.
Sometimes it simply needs to be smarter.
Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 Specifications
Dial
White gold skeletonized baton-style hands, white varnished.
Case
White gold. Diameter: 47 mm. Thickness: 12.39 mm. Water-resistant to 30m. Solid case back.
Strap
Composite material, black. White gold patented fold-over clasp.
Movement
240 C LU CL LCSO
Self-winding
Celestial
Sunrise and sunset time indications
Summer time/winter time correction
Hours and minutes of mean solar time
Sky chart
Ellipse representing the visible part of the sky for a given latitude
Meridian
Time of meridian passage of Sirius and of the Moon
Angular motion of the Moon
Date by hand
Moon phases
Diameter: 38 mm.
Thickness: 7.93 mm.
Number of parts: 426.
Number of jewels: 51.
Power reserve: min. 38 hours – max. 48 hours.
Winding rotor: 22K gold off-center minirotor.
Balance: Gyromax®.
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations/hour (3 Hz).
Balance spring: Spiromax®.
Distinctive sign: Patek Philippe Seal.
Final Thoughts
The Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 is more than a complicated watch.
It is a mechanical interpretation of astronomical motion — a watch that transforms the changing sky, lunar cycles, and shifting daylight patterns into something wearable through pure mechanical engineering.
That alone makes it remarkable.
But what elevates the watch further is how coherent the entire experience feels. Despite the technical density of the movement and display system, the Celestial remains balanced, refined, and unmistakably Patek Philippe.
In an era where much of luxury watchmaking is driven by familiarity, the 6105G-001 feels refreshingly ambitious.
In this exclusive EyesOnTime conversation, Federico Ziviani reflects on innovation, heritage, and how Gerald Charles is shaping the future of modern independent watchmaking.
Introduction: Federico Ziviani – Ceo Gerald Charles
Born and raised in Milan, Federico Ziviani has grown up surrounded by fine watchmaking. His father, Franco Ziviani, was a long-standing distributor for Audemars Piguet, introducing Federico early to the discipline, culture, and craftsmanship of haute horlogerie.
After earning a degree in Business Administration and Management from Bayes Business School, Federico completed a Master of Science in Computer Science at University College London, specialising in machine learning, artificial intelligence, and blockchain networks. This rare combination of heritage, business insight, and advanced technology now defines his leadership approach.
In 2019, he became General Manager of Gerald Charles, a Maison founded in 2000 by Gérald Charles Genta in close collaboration with the Ziviani family. In 2023, he was appointed CEO.
EyesOnTime met Federico Ziviani at Dubai Watch Week to discuss innovation, heritage, and the future of Gerald Charles.
Breaking Rules the Right Way: Reinventing Watchmaking Finishing
EyesOnTime: Gerald Genta was known for breaking rules. What rule in watchmaking you feel most tempted to break next as Gerald Charles?
Federico Ziviani:
We are very focused on reinventing modern watchmaking finishing. A strong example of this is Meta-Guilloché, a new type of dial finishing that evolves from traditional guilloché.
Classical guilloché is executed using historic machines. Meta-Guilloché, instead, is created through a contemporary process we developed together with engineers coming from biotechnology. Using this method, we engrave more than 200,000 micro-lines on a single dial, creating a light reflection that is up to ten times brighter than traditional guilloché.
We introduced this finishing on our anniversary Jumping Hour watch. It represents our broader philosophy: respecting legacy while bringing it forward through modern engineering. And there will be many more innovations like this in the future.
Which Watch Would Surprise Gérald Charles Genta Today?
EyesOnTime: If you could bring Genta into the atelier today and show him one recent Gerald Charles watch, which one do you think he would be most surprised by and why?
Federico Ziviani:
I believe he would be very happy to see the Masterlink.
This was the last integrated bracelet he designed, originally created as a unique piece in 2007 — fully gem-set and made with around 40 carats of gold. What we have done is reinterpret that vision into a steel version that is simpler to wear and perfectly suited to everyday life.
It remains true to his original idea while expressing it in a contemporary way.
Beyond Design: Correcting a Common Misconception
EyesOnTime: Gerald Charles operates in an interesting space, niche yet globally recognized. What is a misconception people still have about the brand that you wish you could correct once and for all?
Federico Ziviani:
Many people are immediately attracted by our design, which is very distinctive. What I would love them to appreciate even more is the depth of engineering and watchmaking behind our creations.
For us, engineering comes first. Design follows the technical architecture. A good example is the Masterlink: achieving a slim 2.7mm profile, a micro-rotor movement, 100 metres of water resistance, and excellent wearability requires advanced watchmaking expertise.
This savoir-faire is at the heart of Gerald Charles.
Form and Freedom: The Art of Wearing Time
EyesOnTime: As the brand scales up, how do you avoid creating too much demand culture where scarcity becomes the story instead of the watch?
Federico Ziviani: As Gerald Charles grows, its approach remains deliberately grounded. The Maison has never pursued scarcity as a narrative device, nor demand as an end in itself. The focus is singular: creating the best watch possible.
And today, the definition of the best watch has evolved. Luxury is no longer weight or fragility — it is comfort, freedom, and confidence in motion. A Gerald Charles is designed to remain on the wrist whether one is swimming, travelling, playing sport, or attending a formal evening. It is a watch that adapts instinctively to life, rather than asking life to adapt to it.
Scarcity, therefore, is not engineered — it is inherent. The asymmetric architecture of the case and bracelet, the complexity of the finishing, and the hundreds of components within each movement require a level of hand craftsmanship that cannot be industrialised without compromise. Production is naturally limited by the standards the Maison refuses to dilute.
Growth at Gerald Charles is not about producing more watches. It is about preserving the soul of watchmaking where engineering, ergonomics, and design coexist — uncompromised.
Inside the Genta Archive: Building for the Next Century
EyesOnTime: You have access to a deep archive of Genta sketches. What’s the most unexpected idea that you’ve discovered in that archive, that the world hasn’t seen yet?
Federico Ziviani:
The archive is incredibly rich, with many ideas that have not yet been seen by the world. Visitors can already get a glimpse of this universe at our museum in Dubai, where they can discover different shapes beyond the Maestro that Gérald created.
In the sketches, there are fascinating complications, beautifully skeletonised bridges, and designs that remain highly relevant today. This patrimony gives us the foundation to build Gerald Charles for the next 100 years.
Evolving an Icon: The Maestro Case and Modern Complications
EyesOnTime: The Maestro case is already an icon. What design challenge keeps you up at night when trying to evolve something that collectors consider untouchable?
Federico Ziviani:
The product is always at the centre of our thinking. We constantly want to make our watches more interesting and more expressive from a watchmaking perspective.
We have a clear plan to introduce one new complication every year, and each of these will be a modern reinterpretation rather than a traditional execution. Our goal is that the next best Gerald Charles watch is always the one still to come.
The Geneva Atelier: More Than a Manufacture
EyesOnTime: You recently opened the Geneva Atelier with a museum-style space. Beyond watches, what emotion or idea do you want visitors to walk away with?
Federico Ziviani:
I want visitors to leave with a strong sense of family. The Atelier is designed like our home.
Our family created Gerald Charles together with Gérald Charles Genta in 2000, and my father had been close friends with him since the 1980s. Gerald created this brand out of pure passion, and passion is what we want people to feel when they visit us.
We put our soul into every watch — the soul of our watchmakers, of my father, of myself, and of our entire team. When visitors come to Geneva, they experience Swiss-Italian hospitality, great food, great conversations, and direct interaction with our watchmakers, who take the time to explain their craft in an open and authentic way.
Looking Ahead: What Must Never Change
EyesOnTime: When you imagine Gerald Charles 20 years from now, what is the one element you hope remains exactly the same and the one element you hope is radically different?
Federico Ziviani:
What will remain the same — not just for 20 years, but for the next 100 years — is our ambition to create the best possible watches and to keep innovating.
Innovation is how we continue to create value and meaning. We are very happy with what we are building today. Being at Dubai Watch Week with a standalone independent booth, a museum, a workshop, and spaces to educate collectors reflects what we believe in.
What we have at Gerald Charles is a treasure of immense historical and creative value, and our responsibility is to cultivate it for generations to come.
Closing Perspective
Through engineering-led innovation, deep respect for heritage, and a clear long-term vision, Gerald Charles continues to evolve as a modern independent Maison. Under Federico Ziviani’s leadership, the spirit of Gérald Charles Genta remains expressive, contemporary, and firmly focused on the future.
In an era where high horology increasingly celebrates both tradition and innovation, Daniel Roth has unveiled a spectacular new expression of its iconic Extra Plat model — the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. This latest release showcases the brand’s commitment to refined aesthetics, masterful finishing, and structural ingenuity, taking watchmaking artistry to new heights.
A Fresh Interpretation of a Classic
The Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton reimagines Daniel Roth’s signature double-ellipse silhouette through a skeletal lens, offering an unobstructed view of the meticulously finished movement inside. Unlike its closed-dial predecessors, this model embraces transparency — revealing the heart of the watch: the new Calibre DR002SR.
Rather than simply removing material for effect, the watch’s open architecture was conceived with purpose. The bridges and plates have been reshaped and skeletonised to maximize visibility while preserving structural integrity. This balance between form and function underscores Daniel Roth’s modern approach to haute horlogerie.
Movement — The Soul in Full View
At the core of this piece, the DR002SR movement is more than just a technical engine — it’s a showcase of artisanal craftsmanship. Developed and assembled entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the calibre features:
Manual winding, emphasizing tactile interaction and horological purity.
A free-sprung balance beating at 4 Hz and a 65-hour power reserve — impressive performance for such a refined movement.
141 components and 21 jewels, with bridges and mainplate reimagined in 18k 5N rose gold for both beauty and enduring quality.
The extensive hand-finishing — from internal anglage to polished countersinks and black-polished steel elements — is not just decoration but a testament to the skill of the master watchmakers behind the piece.
Design — Elegance Through Minimalism
The Extra Plat Skeleton’s design remains true to Daniel Roth’s distinctive DNA: the elegant double-ellipse case shape, now measuring 38.6 mm x 35.5 mm with a remarkably thin profile of 6.9 mm. Crafted from 18k 5N rose gold, the case envelops the movement like a precious frame — warm, rich, and luminous.
With no dial distractions — no indexes, no numerals — the only visual anchors are the blued steel arrow-shaped hands, elegantly floating above the openwork movement. This pared-back design draws the viewer’s attention directly to the geometry and finish of the calibre, making every gesture of craftsmanship visible and appreciable.
The watch sits comfortably on a soft calfskin leather strap with a matching rose gold pin buckle, marrying sophistication with everyday wearability.
A Tribute to Watchmaking Tradition
Skeletonisation is more than an aesthetic choice — it’s a horological tradition that celebrates the mechanics of timekeeping. It requires acute technical understanding and artistic sensibility to maintain durability and readability while stripping away material. In the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton, this tradition is honored boldly and beautifully.
This new model not only reflects the evolution of Daniel Roth’s design language but also cements the brand’s status in contemporary haute horlogerie. By revealing the inner workings of the movement, it invites collectors and enthusiasts to witness mechanical brilliance in its most honest form.
Technical Snapshot
Case
Material: Rose gold 5N
Dimensions: 38.6m x 35.5mm
Thickness: 6.9mm
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap
Lug width – Material: 20mm – Calfskin leather
Calibre
DR002SR – Manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of Master Watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.
Power Reserve – Frequency: ~65 hours – 4Hz
Dimensions: 31 x 28mm
Final Thoughts
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is a celebration of transparency — not just in form, but in philosophy. By revealing the movement’s soul and honoring the craft of traditional watchmaking, it stands as a compelling piece for collectors who value both technical mastery and timeless design.
Whether you’re a seasoned enthusiast or a newcomer to haute horology, this watch exemplifies what makes skeletonised timepieces so enduringly captivating: the beauty of time, stripped down to its essence.
At LVMH Watch Week 2026, BVLGARI did not simply present new watches—it reaffirmed its singular position as a Maison where Roman jewellery heritage and Swiss mechanical mastery coexist in perfect harmony. Under the unifying theme Art of Gold, BVLGARI’s latest creations explore gold not merely as a precious metal, but as a medium of expression—shaped, woven, engraved, and animated by in-house movements of extraordinary refinement.
More than a showcase of novelties, BVLGARI’s presentation unfolded as a coherent narrative: one that links antiquity and modernity, femininity and mechanics, artistry and innovation.
Art of Gold: A Roman Soul, Reimagined
Gold has always been central to BVLGARI’s identity. Rooted in Rome—where gold symbolised power, eternity, and beauty—the Maison continues to reinterpret this legacy through contemporary forms. At LVMH Watch Week 2026, four emblematic collections carried this vision forward: Monete, Tubogas, Serpenti, and Lvcea.
Each collection revisits a historic BVLGARI code, yet none feel archival. Instead, they reflect a modern sensibility—fluid, architectural, and unapologetically bold—underscoring BVLGARI’s ability to evolve without dilution of identity.
The Maglia Milanese Monete Secret Watch stands as one of the most poetic expressions of the Maison’s philosophy. Anchored by an authentic ancient Roman coin depicting Emperor Caracalla, the watch bridges millennia—transforming history into a wearable object of art.
For the first time, BVLGARI explores Milanese mesh in its purest form. Crafted from interlaced rose-gold threads, the bracelet flows with remarkable suppleness, echoing Renaissance goldsmithing traditions while feeling entirely contemporary. Beneath the sculptural exterior lies the ultra-compact Piccolissimo BVP100 calibre—designed, developed, and produced entirely in-house—proving that technical virtuosity can exist even in the most intimate dimensions.
Tubogas Manchette: Chromatic Power and Seventies Geometry
Few jewellery-watch designs are as unmistakably BVLGARI as Tubogas. First introduced in the 1940s and embraced fully in the 1970s, Tubogas returns in 2026 with renewed intensity through the Tubogas Manchette.
This sculptural cuff watch is a celebration of colour, volume, and confidence. Yellow gold coils are illuminated by nearly 12 carats of diamonds and a vibrant spectrum of gemstones—citrines, rubellites, peridots, amethysts, topazes, and spessartites—set against a square pavé-diamond dial.
Powering this radiant creation is the Lady Solotempo Automatic BVS100, a fully in-house movement that reinforces BVLGARI’s commitment to mechanical legitimacy in jewellery watchmaking. The result is a watch that feels as powerful as it looks—where glamour and horology share equal footing.
Serpenti Seduttori Automatic: The Evolution of an Icon
Serpenti is not merely a collection—it is a signature. Since its first mechanical incarnation in 1948, the serpent has embodied transformation, sensuality, and strength. In 2026, the Serpenti Seduttori Automatic continues this lineage with two distinct expressions of femininity.
One version features a deep green malachite dial, celebrating BVLGARI’s long-standing relationship with hardstones. The other elevates preciousness through a diamond-set bracelet that transforms the watch into a jewel of light and movement. Both are powered by the Lady Solotempo Automatic movement, seamlessly integrated into Serpenti’s sinuous, scale-like bracelet.
These creations reaffirm Serpenti’s status as an evolving icon—timeless yet never static.
Lvcea Notte di Luce: Light, Art, and Time
Perhaps the most artistic expression of the collection emerges in Lvcea Notte di Luce, born from a rare collaboration between BVLGARI and Japanese Urushi master Yasuhiro Asai.
Using ancestral lacquer techniques and the intricate Raden method—where fragments of mother-of-pearl are embedded into deep black lacquer—each dial becomes a miniature cosmos of light. No two are alike. Each requires nearly sixty days of meticulous craftsmanship, resulting in a limited-edition creation imbued with individuality and soul.
Lvcea Notte di Luce is more than a watch; it is a meditation on time, patience, and luminosity—where Swiss mechanics support a dial that feels almost celestial.
A Unified Vision at LVMH Watch Week 2026
At LVMH Watch Week 2026, BVLGARI delivered more than novelties—it delivered coherence. Each watch, each movement, each material choice contributed to a single, articulate vision: that true luxury lies in the dialogue between heritage and innovation.
Gold, in BVLGARI’s hands, becomes more than a material. It becomes memory, movement, and meaning.
At LVMH Watch Week 2026 in Milan, ZENITH presents a sharply focused vision—one that places the DEFY collection at the centre of its contemporary identity. Across revival pieces, refined three-hand models, ceramic chronographs, skeletonized movements, and a high-frequency tourbillon, ZENITH makes one thing clear: DEFY is no longer a category. It is a philosophy.
This year’s novelties explore the idea of urban resilience—how architecture, precision, and material innovation come together to create watches designed not only to be admired, but to endure.
DEFY Revival A3643: The Origin of the DEFY Language
The DEFY story begins in 1969, and in 2026, ZENITH returns to one of its earliest and most defining references: the DEFY Revival A3643.
True to the historical model, the watch features the legendary “Time-Safe” case, protected by a screwed 14-sided bezel and caseback—a design conceived to withstand extreme conditions. Rendered in stainless steel and sized at 37mm, the proportions remain faithful to the original while feeling perfectly attuned to modern preferences for compact, versatile watches.
A silver dial with applied indices and Super-LumiNova® ensures clarity, while the integrated steel bracelet—with a modern micro-adjustment clasp—adds contemporary comfort. Powering the watch is the Elite 670, a calibre that represents a milestone in ZENITH’s manufacture history: precise, slim, and engineered for long-term reliability.
Importantly, the A3643 is more than a revival. Its angular case architecture directly inspired the design language of the modern DEFY Skyline collection—making this watch the conceptual cornerstone of the entire DEFY universe.
DEFY Skyline 36mm: Modern Geometry in Refined Proportions
With the DEFY Skyline 36mm, ZENITH refines its urban design vocabulary into a more compact, unisex format without sacrificing presence.
The stainless-steel case retains the Skyline’s distinctive angular silhouette and dodecagonal bezel, while a new white-toned sunray dial introduces a softer, more luminous expression of the collection’s signature four-pointed star pattern. The result is a watch that feels architectural yet elegant—sporty, but undeniably refined.
Two interpretations define the range:
a classic steel bezel for understated versatility
a diamond-set dodecagonal bezel (52 diamonds, 1 carat) that elevates the watch into a more jewellery-forward territory while remaining unmistakably DEFY
Inside, the Elite 670 once again delivers automatic precision with a 50-hour power reserve. An interchangeable bracelet system with an additional rubber strap reinforces the Skyline’s everyday adaptability.
This is DEFY at its most accessible—confident, balanced, and effortlessly contemporary.
DEFY Skyline Chronograph Black Ceramic: High-Frequency, High Impact
The DEFY Skyline Chronograph Black Ceramic introduces a more assertive expression of the collection’s urban identity.
Clad entirely in black ceramic, the 42mm case and dodecagonal bezel amplify the Skyline’s sharp geometry while offering exceptional scratch resistance and durability. The black sunray dial, engraved with the star motif, creates depth and contrast beneath luminous applied indices.
At its core is the El Primero 3600, ZENITH’s modern high-frequency chronograph calibre. Beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, it enables true 1/10th of a second measurement, displayed directly and intuitively. Despite this technical performance, the movement maintains a robust 60-hour power reserve, underscoring ZENITH’s mastery of efficiency at high frequency.
This watch embodies DEFY’s performance ethos—precision expressed through material innovation and architectural clarity.
DEFY Skyline Skeleton Black Ceramic: Transparency with Intent
Skeletonization within the DEFY collection is not decorative—it is structural. The DEFY Skyline Skeleton Black Ceramic demonstrates this philosophy with striking clarity.
The 41mm black ceramic case frames a skeletonized movement finished in rose-gold-toned PVD, creating a powerful contrast between darkness and warmth. The openworked architecture follows ZENITH’s star-shaped design language, ensuring that every bridge serves both mechanical and visual purpose.
Powering the watch is the El Primero 3620 SK, a high-frequency automatic movement that features a 1/10th of a second indicator designed for smooth, continuous motion. An integrated braking system prevents hand jumping, allowing the indicator to rotate fluidly—an example of functional innovation hidden beneath visual drama.
The result is a watch that reveals its mechanics without compromising legibility or balance.
DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton: A High-Frequency First
The most significant technical statement of ZENITH’s 2026 presentation arrives in the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton, limited to 50 pieces worldwide.
For the first time, ZENITH combines a high-frequency 5Hz tourbillon with a fully skeletonized architecture inside the DEFY Skyline case. Crafted in rose gold, the 41mm watch houses the El Primero 3630, a movement that redefines the relationship between complexity and efficiency.
The tourbillon cage—shaped like ZENITH’s iconic double-Z star—completes one rotation per minute at 6 o’clock. Despite the energy demands of a high-frequency tourbillon, the movement delivers an impressive 60-hour power reserve, achieved through an ultra-light aluminium cage weighing just 0.25 grams.
This watch represents the summit of the DEFY philosophy: architectural design, high-frequency precision, and haute horlogerie expertise unified in a single, uncompromising creation.
DEFY in 2026: A Unified Vision
Across every model unveiled at LVMH Watch Week 2026, ZENITH communicates a clear and disciplined message. DEFY is not defined by complication or material alone—it is defined by structure, frequency, and intent.
From the historical foundations of the A3643 to the technical audacity of the tourbillon skeleton, the DEFY collection expresses a singular vision of modern watchmaking—one that is urban, resilient, and relentlessly forward-looking.
In 2026, ZENITH does not chase trends. It builds frameworks—and dares time to keep up.
How the Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Secret Blends Haute Joaillerie and Fine Watchmaking
The Rendez-Vous Secret is not designed to announce the hour. It is designed to guard it. Conceived as a rare meeting point between high jewellery and fine watchmaking, this creation transforms time into a private experience — revealed only at the wearer’s choosing.
Crafted by the jeweller-craftsmen of Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Rendez-Vous Secret draws inspiration from a historic Maison creation of the 1960s, reinterpreted today through contemporary techniques, exceptional gem-setting, and remarkable miniaturisation.
Inspired by Winter at the Vallée de Joux
The aesthetic spirit of the Rendez-Vous Secret is rooted in nature. Its palette and brilliance are inspired by the reflection of snow during winter in the Vallée de Joux. Light dances across white gold, diamonds, sapphires, and mother-of-pearl, creating a surface that feels luminous, crisp, and quietly powerful.
This is not nostalgia, but evolution: a modern expression of a vintage idea, refined through decades of expertise.
The Case: Precision in a Precious Form
The watch is housed in a 24 mm case, perfectly scaled to sit like a jewel on the wrist. At 9.85 mm thick, it maintains a refined profile while accommodating its concealed dial construction.
Material: White gold 750/1000 (18 carats), rhodium-plated
Water resistance: 3 bar
Every curve of the case is designed to support gem-setting while preserving softness and balance, ensuring elegance rather than excess.
The Dial: A Secret by Design
At first glance, the Rendez-Vous Secret appears as a high-jewellery bracelet watch. Only when opened does it reveal its white front dial, serene and understated. Time is indicated by graceful Florale hands, whose organic form echoes the femininity at the heart of the collection.
The display is intentionally pure, limited to hours and minutes, reinforcing the idea that this watch is about moments — not measurement.
A Masterful Composition of Gemstones
The Rendez-Vous Secret is a showcase of jewellery savoir-faire, brought to life through an extraordinary gem selection:
Mother-of-pearl, offering natural depth and soft iridescence
197 diamonds (≈ 11.09 carats) enveloping the piece in brilliance
1 diamond (≈ 0.13 carats) placed as a singular, intentional accent
The stones are arranged to capture light from every angle, evoking the shimmer of snow under winter sun — refined, never ostentatious.
Bracelet: Jewellery Without Interruption
The integrated 18-carat white-gold bracelet completes the illusion. Seamlessly executed, it reinforces the identity of the Rendez-Vous Secret as jewellery first and watch second. On the wrist, it feels fluid, balanced, and unmistakably precious.
The Essence of Time
With only hour and minute indication, the Rendez-Vous Secret distils time to its simplest form. There are no complications to distract, no excess to justify. Every element exists to serve elegance, discretion, and emotion.
Final Perspective
The Rendez-Vous Secret is not about telling time efficiently — it is about experiencing time beautifully. Inspired by heritage, shaped by nature, and executed with exceptional craftsmanship, it stands as a poetic expression of femininity, high jewellery, and fine watchmaking.
Girard-Perregaux at the Summit of Haute Horlogerie: Cosmos, Neo Constant Escapement & Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges
Few manufactures embody the union of invention, chronometric ambition and visual poetry quite like Girard-Perregaux. Founded in 1791, the Maison has consistently pushed the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking, not only in pursuit of precision, but also in the way time is architecturally expressed. In its latest high-horology statements, Girard-Perregaux presents three extraordinary creations that together form a manifesto of its savoir-faire: the Cosmos (Unique Piece), the Neo Constant Escapement, and the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges. Each explores a different dimension of time — cosmic, constant, and architectural — yet all are unmistakably Girard-Perregaux.
Neo Constant Escapement
Luxury watch luminous hands and markers
Girard-Perregaux Three Bridges timepiece luxury watch
Cosmos: A Mechanical Universe on the Wrist
The Girard-Perregaux Cosmos returns in 2025 as a unique piece, reaffirming the Manufacture’s mastery of complex complications and poetic display. First introduced in 2019, the Cosmos stands apart for its ability to translate astronomical phenomena into three-dimensional mechanical theatre.
At the heart of this titanium-cased timepiece lies three major complications:
A tourbillon positioned at six o’clock, housed within a lyre-shaped cage and supported by a titanium Neo Bridge — a contemporary interpretation of Constant Girard’s historic arrow-shaped bridges.
A terrestrial globe at three o’clock, rotating once every 24 hours and offering a day/night indication, encircled by an hour ring inspired by Saturn’s rings.
A celestial globe at nine o’clock, mapping the Zodiac constellations and completing a rotation in a true sidereal day (23h 56m 4s).
The dial construction is equally evocative: a two-part surface combining Tahitian mother-of-pearl with a reduced-thickness layer of blue aventurine, allowing light to interact with shimmering mineral textures. The off-centred time display, rendered in black with white-gold hands and luminescent accents, ensures legibility amid the cosmic complexity.
Powering the watch is the in-house Calibre GP09320, a hand-wound movement finished to the highest standards, featuring circular graining, bevelled bridges and a power reserve of at least 57 hours. Even the act of winding becomes an experience, thanks to four rotating bows (“bélières”) on the case back, replacing a conventional crown.
The Cosmos is not merely a complication showcase — it is a miniature universe, engineered with scientific precision and poetic intent.
If the Cosmos speaks to wonder, the Neo Constant Escapement speaks to control — specifically, the pursuit of constant force, one of watchmaking’s most elusive goals. Building on the award-winning Constant Escapement concept that earned Girard-Perregaux the Aiguille d’Or in 2013, the Neo Constant Escapement represents decades of research distilled into a wearable chronometer.
Central to this innovation is a silicium blade, inspired by the physical phenomenon of buckling. Regardless of how much energy remains in the twin barrels, this blade delivers a perfectly uniform impulse to the balance wheel, ensuring stable amplitude and exceptional rate consistency until the very last moment of power.
The 2025 releases introduce two new executions:
A 45 mm pink gold version, combining advanced escapement technology with the warmth and gravitas of a precious metal case.
An ultra-limited carbon and silicium composite edition, restricted to just two numbered pieces, offering exceptional lightness, resistance, and a stealthy contemporary aesthetic.
Both are powered by the COSC-certified Calibre GP09200, an in-house hand-wound movement offering an impressive 7-day power reserve. The architecture of the dial places the escapement front and centre, beneath Neo Bridges, transforming mechanical regulation into a visual focal point.
The Neo Constant Escapement is not designed to impress through ornament alone — it is a demonstration of how deep scientific insight can redefine mechanical performance at the highest level.
Girard-Perregaux Three Bridges timepiece luxury watch
Cosmos Neo Constant Escapement luxury Swiss watch
Neo Constant Escapement mechanical watch movement visible
Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges: Architecture in Light
The Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges is perhaps the most emblematic expression of Girard-Perregaux’s identity. Rooted in the legendary Three Bridges Tourbillon of 1867 and immortalised by La Esmeralda in 1889, the bridges have evolved into a signature where structure and beauty are inseparable.
The latest iteration is housed in a 44 mm white gold case and limited to just eight pieces worldwide. Three black-tinted titanium bridges, more sinuous and contemporary than their 19th-century predecessors, appear to float within a sapphire “box” case that floods the movement with light.
Unlike traditional designs, the watch dispenses with a conventional mainplate. Instead, the bridges themselves provide structural integrity, supporting the gear train, barrel and tourbillon. Luminescent hour markers are mounted directly onto the case, while skeletonised white-gold hands ensure clarity without disrupting the airy, three-dimensional composition.
Inside beats the Calibre GP09400, a self-winding movement with a patented micro-rotor crafted in white gold. Ingeniously positioned beneath the barrel, the micro-rotor allows the movement to remain slim while preserving an unobstructed view of its architecture. With a minimum 60-hour power reserve, it is as technically refined as it is visually captivating.
This is horology as architecture — light, space and mechanics fused into a singular aesthetic statement.
Neo Constant Escapement
Cosmos Neo Constant Escapement luxury Swiss watch
Cosmos, Neo Constant Escapement
Three Visions, One Manufacture
Together, the Cosmos, Neo Constant Escapement, and Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges illustrate the extraordinary breadth of Girard-Perregaux’s expertise. From cosmic complication to constant-force innovation and architectural transparency, each watch represents a distinct philosophy, yet all share the same foundations: in-house mastery, uncompromising finishing, and a relentless drive to push Haute Horlogerie forward.
These are not merely timepieces — they are mechanical narratives, written by a Manufacture that has been shaping the future of watchmaking for over two centuries.
In a world increasingly driven by speed and spectacle, Patek Philippe’s Gondolo Haute Joaillerie collection stands as a reminder that true luxury often whispers rather than shouts. The references 7042/100G-010 and 7042/100R-010 are perfect embodiments of this philosophy—two watches that blend traditional handcraft, mechanical purity, and high jewellery into objects of quiet, enduring beauty.
While identical in form and function, the two references express distinctly different moods through their choice of precious metal: white gold for restrained elegance, and rose gold for warmth and romance.
A Canvas of Rare Handcrafts
At the heart of both watches lies one of Patek Philippe’s most poetic métiers d’art executions. The dial is entirely hand-engraved in a rhythmic arabesque pattern, then meticulously snow-set with diamonds of varying sizes. This technique creates a shimmering surface that appears almost textile-like—soft, fluid, and alive under changing light.
Every curve, hollow, and recess is engraved by hand before a single diamond is set. The result is not decorative excess, but visual harmony—an effect only achievable through hours of patient artisanal work.
Gondolo Haute Joaillerie diamond watch
Diamond-set Gondolo watch dial
White Gold vs Rose Gold: Two Expressions, One Soul
Ref. 7042/100G-010 (White Gold) The white gold version leans toward modern classicism. Its cooler tone amplifies the brilliance of the diamonds, giving the watch a crisp, architectural presence. It feels poised, refined, and quietly powerful—ideal for those who appreciate subtlety and understatement in haute joaillerie.
Ref. 7042/100R-010 (Rose Gold) The rose gold reference introduces warmth and sensuality. Against the soft blush of the case, the diamond-set engraving takes on a richer, more romantic character. It feels intimate and expressive, yet unmistakably Patek Philippe in its restraint and balance.
Together, the two references demonstrate how a change in metal alone can completely alter the emotional language of a watch.
Patek Philippe Gondolo worn on wrist
Haute Joaillerie diamond detailing
Mechanical Integrity Beneath the Diamonds
Despite their jewelled exterior, these Gondolo references remain deeply mechanical at heart. Both are powered by the calibre 215, a manually wound movement known for its slim architecture, classical construction, and exceptional finishing.
Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement reveals Geneva stripes, polished bevels, and hand-finished details that uphold Patek Philippe’s most stringent standards. This is not jewellery hiding a movement—it is high horology dressed in diamonds.
Patek Philippe Gondolo Haute Joaillerie watch
Patek Philippe Gondolo collection
The Gondolo Case: Timeless Geometry
The rectangular Gondolo case, inspired by early 20th-century designs, provides the perfect frame for this artistry. Its proportions feel deliberate and balanced, reinforcing the watch’s jewellery character while remaining unmistakably horological.
The diamond-set bezel, lugs, and crown are integrated with restraint, ensuring that nothing overwhelms the overall composition.
A Collector’s Perspective
These watches are not designed to follow trends or compete for attention. They are created for collectors who understand that true luxury lies in craftsmanship, legacy, and emotion. Whether chosen in white gold or rose gold, the Gondolo 7042 represents a commitment to beauty that transcends time.
In an era of oversized cases and technical bravado, Patek Philippe reminds us that elegance—when executed at this level—remains the ultimate complication.
OVERSEAS SELF-WINDING HIGH JEWELLERY First fully gem-set model for the Overseas 35 mm self-winding
Two new Overseas self-winding 35 mm pieces in 18K white gold and 18K 5N pink gold, fully set with 1,430 brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds.
Each model is presented with two additional, interchangeable straps in shiny alligator leather and rubber, with an interchangeable diamondset buckle.
The self-winding Manufacture movement, calibre 1088/1 with a 40- hour power reserve displays hours, minutes and central seconds, as well as the date in an aperture Vacheron Constantin opens a new chapter for the Overseas selfwinding 35 mm model, introducing two high-jewellery versions for the first time, in 18K white gold and in 18K 5N pink gold, powered by the Manufacture movement, calibre 1088/1. Originally created in 2023, the 35 mm Overseas case was conceived as a timepiece to suit all discerning wrists in any situation. Its more streamlined dimensions make it intrinsically comfortable to wear, while retaining all of the aesthetic codes and inherent functionality of its larger Overseas counterparts.
Vacheron Constantin Watch
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding High Jewellery
The dazzling craft of gem-setting
Vacheron Constantin has been on a quest for excellence in the art of gem-setting since the 19th century, when it added the craft to its repertoire of métiers d’art. At that time, timepieces were not only confined to a waistcoat pocket but were also worn as jewellery and fashion accessories. The new Overseas Self-Winding 35 mm
Overseas Self-Winding High Jewellery diamond watch white gold
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding High Jewellery diamond watch white gold
High Jewellery watch is adorned with a total of 1,430 diamonds (~12.58 cts) and combines two cuts: brilliant and baguette.
The Maltese cross motif on the bezel – a signature of the Overseas collection, inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s emblem – is highlighted by the radiance of 60 invisibly set baguette-cut diamonds (~ 2.28 cts). Invisible setting is particularly challenging for the gem-setter as it creates a seamlessly gem-covered surface on which the stones appear to float above the gold surface with no visible means of support. First, the gem-setter creates a framework of gold rails, only 0.2 mm to 0.4 mm thick, which forms a secure grid structure that remains hidden once the gemstones are slotted into it. After creating the frame, the artisan must cut a tiny V-shaped groove along both sides of each diamond, to match the position and dimensions of the rails with a tolerance of only 0.02 millimetres, thus ensuring that the stones sit flush, with no gaps, overlaps or visible metal. This setting technique is so meticulous that it can take several hours for just one stone.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding High Jewellery
Vacheron Constantin Watch
The serene beauty of the invisibly set baguette stones contrasts with the multifaceted sparkle of brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial and 18K gold bracelet. The dial is elegant and functional, displaying only the essentials of time and date, in order to maximise the visual impact of the snow-set diamond background – comprising 314 brilliant-cut diamonds (~ 1.65 ct). Combining artistry and precision, snow setting is another highly demanding technique, in which the gemsetter covers the entire surface of the gold dial base in diamonds of varying diameter, set in an order that appears to be random. In fact, the placement of every stone must be meticulously judged, to leave an absolute minimum of metal between the stones so that the entire surface refracts and reflects the light, like the effect of the sun on a sparkling field of snowflakes. Against this glittering backdrop, 12 baguettecut diamonds serve as hour markers. The lugs and 18K gold bracelet are also snow-set, with a total of 884 brilliant-cut diamonds (~ 6.95 cts), with each link of the bracelet set separately before being carefully assembled.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding diamond watch white gold
Blue alligator strap with white gold watch
White rubber strap with diamond buckle
High Jewellery Watch
Overseas 35 mm high jewellery pink gold timepiece
Overseas Self-Winding High Jewellery diamond watch white gold
One watch, three styles
Introduced to the Overseas collection in 2023, the 35 mm diameter case is designed not only to correspond with a modern aesthetic, but also to be suitable for any situation and comfortably worn by everyone regardless of wrist size. Its versatility is underlined by the easy interchangeability of its diamond-set gold bracelet and two straps that are delivered with the watch: one in white rubber and one in shiny alligator leather. Adding a vivid splash of colour to the otherwise monochrome palette of the watch, the white gold model comes with a brilliant blue alligator-skin strap, while the pink gold model is delivered with a fuchsia-coloured alligator-skin strap. Each is secured with an 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold pin buckle to match the case metal; set with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.33 ct), the buckle may also be interchanged to fit another strap of the owner’s choice. As with all Overseas models, the owner needs no tool to easily and quickly change the bracelet, straps or buckle at will. Echoing the Maltese Cross motif found on the bezel the bracelets are outfitted with the easy-fit system inherent to the Overseas collection since 2016, a hidden micro-adjustment that provides the wearer with flawless comfort.
Vacheron Constantin’s self-winding calibre 1088/1
Calibre 1088/1 sets the pace for the Overseas SelfWinding High Jewellery, driving the hours, minutes, central seconds and date in an aperture. The central seconds is also outfitted with a stop-seconds function, ensuring to-the-second accuracy when setting the time. The 144-component automatic movement operates at a frequency of 4Hz and is equipped with a 40-hour power reserve. Visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back, the movement is very finely finished and features visible Côtes de Genève decoration and bevelled bridges, as well as the Overseas collection’s emblematic 22K gold rotor adorned with a compass rose.
Technical data OVERSEAS SELF-WINDING HIGH JEWELLERY
References 4617V/215G – H039 (white gold)
4617V/215R – H040 (pink gold)
Calibre 1088/1
Manufacture calibre
Mechanical, self-winding
20.8 mm (9’’’) in diameter, 3.83 mm thick
Approximately 40-hour power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
144 components
24 jewels
Indications Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Case 18K white gold / 18K 5N pink gold
35 mm in diameter; 8.43 mm thick
158 diamonds (~3.31 cts): 60 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel (~ 2.28 cts) and 98 brilliant-cutdiamonds (~1.03 ct)
Screwed down crown
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 5 bar (approx. 50 metres)
Dial Fully set with 314 brilliant-cut diamonds (~1.65 ct)
Hour-markers
and hands 18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold hours and minutes hands, highlighted with blue Super-Luminova®
(Vacheron Constantin is not the owner of the Super-LumiNova® trademarks. These marks are owned by a third party)
12 baguette-cut diamond hour-markers (~0.32 ct)
Bracelet 18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
884 brilliant-cut diamonds (~6.95 cts)
Self-interchangeable system integrated
Easy-fit system
Additional straps Brilliant blue alligator (white gold), fuchsia alligator (pink gold) – White rubber
Buckle Interchangeable 18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold pin buckle
62 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.33 ct)
Total of diamonds 1,430 diamonds for a total of ~12.58 carats (minimum guaranteed)
For years, the Aquanaut has represented Patek Philippe’s contemporary spirit — modern, confident, and unmistakably relaxed. But with Reference 5260/1455R-001, that narrative shifts dramatically. This is not merely an Aquanaut elevated with gemstones. It is a Grand Complication disguised as high jewellery, quietly rewriting what the collection is capable of.
At first glance, it dazzles. Look closer, and it listens.
A New Identity for the Aquanaut
The Aquanaut Luce line has always leaned toward elegance, but this reference takes a decisive leap into haute horlogerie. For the first time, Patek Philippe integrates a minute repeater into the Aquanaut family, placing one of the manufacture’s most revered complications inside a design language.
The result is a watch that challenges convention: technically elite, visually extravagant, and conceptually unexpected.
Luxury watch dial close-up
Sapphire back showing Patek Philippe caliber R27 movement
Gem-Setting as Architecture, Not Decoration
The visual impact of the 5260/1455R-001 is immediate — yet its brilliance is far from superficial.
The 38.8 mm rose gold case, bracelet, and dial are entirely transformed through meticulous invisible-setting. Hundreds of baguette-cut sapphires in a full chromatic spectrum flow seamlessly across the bezel, caseband, dial, and bracelet, punctuated by precisely placed baguette diamonds. The stones are not applied as embellishment; they are engineered as structural elements, aligned with architectural precision.
This level of gem-setting is among the most demanding métiers in watchmaking — each stone individually cut, calibrated, and mounted without visible metal, ensuring uninterrupted color transitions and flawless symmetry.
Despite its jewellery status, the watch retains unmistakable Aquanaut geometry: rounded octagonal lines, integrated bracelet flow, and balanced proportions.
Aquanaut Luce dial with diamonds and sapphire markers
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Minute Repeater watch
The Sound Beneath the Sparkle
Hidden beneath this kaleidoscope is the true heart of the watch: Patek Philippe’s self-winding minute repeater calibre R 27.
Minute repeaters represent one of the highest expressions of traditional watchmaking — translating time into sound through a complex choreography of racks, snails, hammers, and gongs. In the 5260/1455R-001, this acoustic complication is activated via a discreet slide in the caseband, preserving the watch’s elegant continuity.
Through the sapphire caseback, the movement reveals classic Patek Philippe finishing: • Geneva striping • Polished bevels • Circular graining • A 22K gold micro-rotor
Every component is finished to the standards demanded by the Patek Philippe Seal, ensuring both mechanical excellence and long-term reliability.
A Dial That Redefines Legibility
Despite the density of gemstones, the dial remains remarkably legible — a testament to thoughtful design rather than excess.
Diamond paving forms the base, while multi-colored sapphire hour markers subtly guide the eye. Rose-gold hands, delicately set with gems, glide effortlessly across the surface, allowing time to remain readable without disrupting the artistic composition.
This balance between function and ornament is rare — and difficult to execute at this level.
More Than a Watch, Less Than Jewellery — Exactly Where It Should Be
The Ref. 5260/1455R-001 occupies a unique space in Patek Philippe’s universe. It is not meant to replace traditional minute repeaters, nor does it seek to compete with classical complications housed in Calatrava or Grand Complication cases.
Instead, it expands the brand’s vocabulary.
This watch speaks to collectors who understand that modern haute horlogerie is no longer confined to restraint alone. It acknowledges that complexity can be expressive, that tradition can coexist with audacity, and that technical mastery does not need to whisper to be legitimate.
Why This Watch Matters
The importance of the 5260/1455R-001 lies not only in its price or rarity, but in what it represents:
A new chapter for the Aquanaut
A rare fusion of Grand Complication and haute joaillerie
Proof that Patek Philippe can innovate without abandoning its core values
It is a reminder that the most powerful luxury watches are not always the loudest — but sometimes, they literally chime.
EyesOnTime Perspective
In a world where gem-set watches often prioritize spectacle over substance, the Patek Philippe 5260/1455R-001 does the opposite. It earns its brilliance through craftsmanship, its presence through complexity, and its relevance through courage.
This is not an Aquanaut you wear casually. This is an Aquanaut that changes the conversation.
Much like ZENITH, the Middle East moves with intention, driven by a shared belief that progress belongs to those who dare to look ahead. The DEFY Skyline Skeleton Middle East Edition is born from that spirit, capturing the region’s architectural clarity, its light, and its unmistakable energy.
Across the Middle East, innovation rises from landscapes shaped by desert horizons and dynamic skylines. It is here that ZENITH presents the DEFY Skyline Skeleton Middle East Edition, a limited edition of 100 pieces that reflects the region’s golden warmth and its continuous pursuit of modernity.
Created for a region shaped by open horizons and bold architectural lines, the DEFY Skyline Skeleton Middle East Edition reflects the interplay of light and structure that defines its identity. The 41 mm faceted steel case, framed by the signature twelve-sided bezel, catches and sculpts the light with the same precision found in the region’s bold architectural silhouettes. Beneath the surface, the golden-toned openworked dial reveals the geometric structure of the El Primero 3620 SK high-frequency automatic movement, beating at 5 Hz and displaying 1/10th of a second, a hallmark of ZENITH’s mastery of precision chronometry.
The watch’s design echoes the architectural identity of the Middle East skylines defined by clean angles, vertical ambition, and wide horizons where light shapes every contour. The dialogue between gold and steel across the star-pattern openworked dial mirrors this balance between structure and openness, creating a piece that feels both refined and resolutely contemporary.
True to the DEFY Skyline philosophy, this edition includes ZENITH’s interchangeable strap system, allowing an effortless transition between the integrated steel bracelet and an additional patterned rubber strap, crafted for comfort in every environment.
The DEFY Skyline Skeleton Middle East Edition is a limited edition of 100 pieces, available exclusively through ZENITH boutiques across the Middle East.
Zenith interchangeable strap steel bracelet
Stainless steel twelve-facet bezel close-up
DEFY SKYLINE SKELETON
Reference: 03.9304.3620/07.I001
Key points: El Primero automatic high-frequency movement. 1/10th second indicator ·
Skeleton dial with golden tone. Stainless-steel case and bracelet. Screwed-in crown. Fully interchangeable strap system. Limited edition of 100 pieces, available exclusively in the Middle East. Movement: El Primero 3620 SK Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz) Power reserve: 60 hours Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre.1/10th of a second indicator at 6 o’clock. Finishes: Special oscillating weight with satined finishings Price: 11’900 CHF Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 10 ATM Case: 41mm Dial: Skeleton dial with a golden tone and an Indo-Arabic small seconds counter
Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel bracelet. 2nd bracelet black rubber with starry sky pattern. Stainless steel
folding clasp
Favre Leuba introduces two new interpretations of the Deep Raider Renaissance series, spotlighting distinctive natural materials: the Deep Raider Renaissance Meteorite and the
Deep Raider Renaissance Malachite.
These editions mark the first time in the brand’s 288-year history that stone dials have been
used, bringing meteorite and malachite into the collection as expressive and technically
demanding elements. While both models draw aesthetic inspiration from the 1964 Deep
Blue, the Renaissance collection embraces the modern design language established in
2024. Together, these uncommon materials bring visual complexity and material storytelling
into one of the maison’s hallmark collections.
Stainless steel Deep Raider Renaissance timepiece dial
Super-LumiNova indices on meteorite dial
Deep Raider Renaissance Meteorite: A Dial Formed Beyond Earth
The meteorite version brings a new material into Favre Leuba’s history: Muonionalusta iron
meteorite from northern Sweden. Composed of iron and nickel, with kamacite and taenite, it
displays the distinctive Widmanstätten pattern formed over millions of years and revealed
through precise slicing and acid treatment.
Preparing a meteorite for watchmaking is delicate work. Each sample is assessed for
stability before being cut into thin sections, as its high iron content can make it brittle.
Craftsmen carefully finish each plate to preserve its extraterrestrial texture while ensuring
durability. Adding to its complexity, the watch features a two-part sandwich dial. A perforated
top layer sits above a base plate coated in Super-Luminova, allowing light to pour through
the cut-out indexes and creating bright, highly legible hour markers.
Each Deep Raider Renaissance Meteorite timepiece comes with a certificate of authenticity
to ensure that the meteorite used in the timepiece is ethically sourced. No two dials look
alike.
Stainless steel Deep Raider Renaissance timepiece dial
Green malachite dial close-up texture
Deep Raider Renaissance Malachite: Natural Patterns With Technical Discipline
The malachite edition highlights the brand’s focus on specialty materials and careful
finishing. The dial is crafted from genuine malachite, a semi-precious mineral known for its
vivid green tones and flowing, concentric patterns. Because every slice of this mineral forms
in irregular layers, each dial carries a one-of-a-kind visual identity. Working with malachite
requires careful handling due to its softness and natural veins.
Favre Leuba selects only stable, visually appealing sections of stone before passing them to
artisans who cut the material into thin plates, reinforce it where necessary, and polish it at
low temperatures to maintain its structural integrity. No two dials look alike.
Engineering The Icon: Craft, Performance & Precision
Both editions share the technical framework of the Deep Raider Renaissance. They adopt a
40 mm stainless-steel case with 300-meter water resistance, a ceramic unidirectional-
rotating bezel, and a sapphire crystal. Inside, the automatic FLD02 movement delivers a 68-
hour power reserve and can be viewed through a transparent caseback. Decorative
elements such as Côtes de Genève finishing, blued screws, and a skeletonized 4N-toned
rotor engraved with the Favre Leuba emblem underscore the attention given to mechanical
design.
With the Malachite and Meteorite models, Favre Leuba continues developing a longstanding
design lineage while exploring dial materials that connect terrestrial geological formations
and cosmic origins.
Deep Raider Renaissance Malachite: Technical Specifications
Case: Stainless steel with a unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel with lume dot insert at 12
o’clock, water-resistant to 30 ATM, double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective
coating, sapphire crystal caseback, and screw-in crown with embossed monogram.
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 12.69mm
Movement: FLD02, self-winding with a 68-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency,
24 jewels, Côtes de Genéve, blued screws, perlage, Soleillè, Diamanté and Cerclé
Functions: Unidirectional Diving Bezel, date window
Dial: Each dial is carved from genuine malachite, a semi-precious mineral known for its vivid
green tones and flowing, concentric patterns. No two dials look alike.
Strap/Bracelet: Available in both integrated three-link steel bracelet with brushed and
polished finishes secured with a butterfly clasp with engraved logo and a FKM Rubber strap
secured with a pin buckle with logo
Price: Rs 2,99,000 (Bracelet)
Rs 2,89,000 (Strap)
Deep Raider Renaissance Meteorite: Technical Specifications
Case: Stainless steel with a unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel with lume dot insert at 12
o’clock, water-resistant to 30 ATM, double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective
coating, sapphire crystal caseback, and screw-in crown with embossed monogram.
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 12.69mm
Movement: FLD02, self-winding with a 68-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency,
24 jewels, Côtes de Genéve, blued screws, perlage, Soleillè, Diamanté and Cerclé
Functions: Unidirectional Diving Bezel, date window
Dial: Made of Iron meteorites, composed mainly of iron and nickel, containing the metallic
phases kamacite and taenite. The fragment used in this watch originates from Sweden and
reveals its crystalline pattern through precise slicing, lapping and acid treatment. Features a
two-part sandwich dial. It consists of a top layer, with perforated indexes, positioned over a
base layer coated with Super-Luminova, resulting in bright, luminous hour markers. No two
dials look alike.
Strap/Bracelet: Available in both integrated three-link steel bracelet with brushed and
polished finishes secured with a butterfly clasp with engraved logo and a FKM Rubber strap
secured with a pin buckle with logo
Price: Rs 3,49,000 (Bracelet)
Rs 3,39,000 (Strap)
Both the Deep Raider Renaissance Malachite and Meteorite will be available exclusively at Ethos in India from early December.
One of the brand’s most striking creations, the Chroma editions embody ZENITH’s technical mastery and daring avant-garde spirit, seamlessly combining high-frequency chronometry with vibrant, expressive design. Following the resounding success of the 2022 DEFY 21 Chroma in white ceramic and the 2023 Chroma II editions in white and black ceramic, this bold fusion of cutting-edge engineering and artistic vision now returns in two new DEFY Extreme limited editions.
Beyond its remarkable technical prowess, the DEFY Extreme collection has always served as a platform for creativity and bold design expression. With the Chroma limited editions, the innovative ZENITH 1/100th of a second chronograph demonstrates how colour can be explored without limits, even on the world’s most advanced high-frequency chronograph.
Zenith Defy Extreme Chroma white edition titanium watch
Titanium case and black ceramic bezel detail
The two ZENITH DEFY Extreme Chroma editions combine titanium and ceramic, accentuated by a distinctive spectrum of colours. Their angular 45mm case comes either in microblasted titanium or in brushed and polished titanium, while the dodecagonal bezel, pusher protectors and crown are crafted in black micro-blasted titanium or white ceramic. The interplay of materials and finishes accentuates the DEFY Extreme’s architectural geometry, reinforcing its bold and dynamic character. Engineered for performance, it offers water resistance up to 20 ATM, making it ready for the most demanding conditions.
Inside the DEFY Extreme Chroma beats a unique version of the automatic El Primero 9004 calibre, whose bridges are PVD-coated in a spectrum of colours. This mechanical rainbow is partially revealed through the openworked black or white dial, where the markers and printings mirror the movement’s chromatic palette in a seamless gradient. Each movement displays its own distinctive colour composition. This vivid spectrum also extends to the tips of the subsidiary dial hands – for the chronograph hours and minutes at 9 and 3 o’clock, the chronograph power reserve at 12 o’clock, and the small seconds at 6 o’clock. On the reverse side, the polychrome theme continues with ZENITH’s signature star-shaped rotor, rendered in a striking blue hue for the black edition and electric green for the white edition.
From a technical standpoint, the El Primero 9004 sets itself apart through its ability to measure elapsed times to 1/100th of a second – a remarkable achievement made possible by two independent escapement systems, each with its own barrel and regulator. The first beats at 5 Hz (36,000 vph) to ensure precise timekeeping, while the second operates at an astonishing 50 Hz (360,000 vph) to drive the chronograph. The central chronograph seconds hand completes one full rotation of the dial every second, allowing readings of elapsed time accurate to 1/100th of a second.
Like all DEFY Extreme models, the Chroma editions feature a quick-change strap system, easily operated via push buttons on the back of the case. For enhanced versatility, each watch comes with three strap options: a black or white embossed rubber strap with folding buckle, a titanium bracelet with matching finishes, and a black Velcro strap.
The DEFY Extreme Chroma is released in two limited editions of 100 pieces each, available at ZENITH boutiques, online, and through authorized retailers worldwide.
DEFY EXTREME
Reference: 97.9113.9004/33.I200
Key points: 1/100th of a second chronograph movement. Exclusive dynamic signature of one rotation per second for the chronograph hand. Screwed-in crown. Sapphire dial. Black rubber and additional titanium bracelet and Velcro strap. Fully interchangeable strap system. Movement: El Primero 9004 Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz) Power reserve: 50 hours Functions: 1 escapement for the watch (36,000 VpH – 5 Hz)
1 escapement for the chronograph (360,000 VpH – 50 Hz) Finishes: “Rainbow” PVD-coated bridges and special blue colored oscillating weight with satined finishings Price: 19’900 CHF / 21’600 Euros / 20’600 USD Material: Microblasted titanium Water resistance: 20 ATM Case: 45mm / Thickness : 15.4 mm / Lug to lug : 51 mm Dial: Black openworked Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with “Rainbow” varnish. Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with colored varnish. Bracelet & Buckle: Black rubber with folding clasp, additional titanium bracelet and black Velcro strap.
DEFY EXTREME
Reference: 95.9114.9004/69.I203
Key points: 1/100th of a second chronograph movement. Exclusive dynamic signature of one rotation per second for the chronograph hand. Screwed-in crown. Sapphire dial. White rubber and additional titanium bracelets and Velcro strap.. Fully interchangeable strap system. Movement: El Primero 9004 Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz) Power reserve: 50 hours Functions: 1 escapement for the watch (36,000 VpH – 5 Hz)
1 escapement for the chronograph (360,000 VpH – 50 Hz) Finishes: “Rainbow” PVD-coated bridges and special green colored oscillating weight with satined finishings Price: 19’900 CHF / 21’600 Euros / 20’600 USD Material: Titanium and white ceramic Water resistance: 20 ATM Case: 45mm / Thickness : 15.4 mm / Lug to lug : 51 mm Dial: White openworked Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with “Rainbow” varnish. Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with colored varnish. Bracelet & Buckle: White rubber with folding clasp, additional titanium bracelet and black Velcro strap
Blancpain, the world’s oldest watchmaking brand, hosted an exclusive showcase in Mumbai on 11th November 2025, presenting its latest novelties across three of its most iconic collections: the Villeret, Fifty Fathoms, and Ladybird. The private event brought together collectors, enthusiasts, and friends of the Maison for an intimate evening celebrating heritage, craftsmanship, and innovation.
Guests exploring Blancpain watches at exhibition
Held at a luxury venue in the heart of the city, the showcase offered guests a rare opportunity to experience Blancpain’s newest creations up close. The event highlighted the timeless purity of the Villeret Collection, the pioneering spirit of the Fifty Fathoms dive watches, and the refined feminine elegance of the Ladybird line.
Blancpain Ladybird collection close-up
Blancpain Ladybird collection
Adding to the exclusivity of the evening, Blancpain unveiled a curated selection of archival pieces from its historical collection. These rarely shown timepieces offered a perspective into the brand’s uninterrupted watchmaking history since 1735, demonstrating the evolution of design, technique, and mechanical mastery.
“We are delighted to host this special presentation in Mumbai, a city with a growing appreciation for fine watchmaking,” said a Blancpain representative. “Bringing together our latest novelties with important archival references allows us to share the full depth of Blancpain’s heritage and vision with our community.”
The event underscored Blancpain’s continued commitment to craftsmanship, innovation, and its long-standing connection with collectors in India
The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) once again delivered a night filled with craftsmanship, innovation and emotion — and the 2025 edition might just be one of the most diverse lineups we’ve seen in years. From ultra-thin record-breakers to artistic métiers d’art creations and bold independents rewriting the rulebook, this year’s winners represent the very best of watchmaking today.
Here’s a complete breakdown of every winning timepiece from GPHG 2025.
Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix — Breguet
Classique Souscription 2025
Breguet took home the top honour with the Classique Souscription 2025 — a tribute to purity, precision, and the maison’s unmistakable signature aesthetics. Slim, elegant, and rooted deeply in its history, this piece captures the true spirit of high horology.
Chronometry Prize — Zenith
G.F.J. Calibre 135
Zenith impressed with a masterclass in accuracy. The Calibre 135 remains a benchmark in chronometry, and its modern interpretation bridges heritage with contemporary execution in a remarkably refined package.
Horological Revelation Prize — Anton Suhanov
St. Petersburg Easter Egg Tourbillon Clock
Anton Suhanov delivered one of the most poetic creations of the night. His tourbillon clock, shaped like a jewelled Easter egg, blends mechanical virtuosity with Russian artistic heritage. A stunning triumph for independent creators.
Audacity Prize — Fam Al Hut
Möbius
Bold, futuristic and mathematically inspired, the Möbius by Fam Al Hut challenges traditional watchmaking norms. A fluid sculpture for the wrist, it stands out as one of the most daring designs of 2025.
Iconic Watch Prize — Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Audemars Piguet reinforces its legendary status with a Perpetual Calendar that redefines the Royal Oak’s identity. Technical finesse meets architectural beauty in this modern icon.
Mechanical Exception Prize — Greubel Forsey
Nano Foudroyante
Greubel Forsey continues to push boundaries. The Nano Foudroyante integrates cutting-edge mechanisms in a breathtakingly complex layout — a true testament to their pursuit of perfection.
Chronograph Prize — Angelus
Chronographe Télémètre Yellow Gold
Angelus returned to its roots with a stunning yellow-gold chronograph featuring a vintage telemeter scale. A beautiful fusion of heritage and contemporary detailing.
Tourbillon Prize — Bvlgari
Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Bvlgari extends its dominance in ultra-thin watchmaking. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon pushes the limits of engineering with a paper-thin architecture and bold modern design.
Sports Watch Prize — Chopard
Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF
Chopard’s high-frequency Alpine Eagle brings performance, lightness and aesthetics together. The textured dial and 8 Hz movement give this piece a competitive edge.
Men’s Complication Prize — Bovet 1822
Récital 30
The Récital 30 is a sculptural timepiece showcasing Bovet’s layered architecture. It balances elegance, mechanics, and creativity — all in true Bovet style.
Men’s Watch Prize — Urban Jürgensen
UJ-2 Double Wheel Natural Escapement
Urban Jürgensen impressed with an intricate natural escapement system, beautifully integrated into a refined, classical case. A victory for traditional craftsmanship.
Time-Only Watch Prize — Daniel Roth
Extra Plat Rose Gold
A masterclass in minimalism. Daniel Roth’s Extra Plat is slim, warm, and beautifully pure — a watch for those who appreciate understatement done exceptionally well.
Jewellery Watch Prize — Dior Montres
La D de Dior Buisson Couture
Dior delivered a gem-set wonder inspired by haute couture embroidery. A piece designed not just as a watch, but as wearable jewellery art.
Artistic Crafts Prize — Voutilainen
28GML SOUYOU
Voutilainen continues to celebrate artisanal craftsmanship with a piece showcasing exceptional guilloché, finishing, and rich contrasting tones. A connoisseur’s delight.
Ladies’ Complication Prize — Chopard
Imperiale Four Seasons
Chopard’s Imperiale Four Seasons captures the beauty of nature through four poetic interpretations — a feminine masterpiece imbued with symbolism and precision.
Ladies’ Watch Prize — Gérald Genta
Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal
A sculptural creation set with vibrant fire opal, Gérald Genta’s Gentissima Oursin is bold, radiant, and exceptional in form. A standout in women’s watchmaking.
Petite Aiguille Prize — M.A.D. Editions
M.A.D.2 Green
Max Büsser’s M.A.D.2 Green brings fun, bold character and futuristic design — perfectly capturing the spirit of accessible independent watchmaking.
Challenge Watch Prize — Dennison
Natural Stone Tiger Eye In Gold
Dennison offers a warm, organic take on luxury with a rich tiger-eye dial set in gold. Simple, striking, and beautifully executed.
Mechanical Clock Prize — L’Épée 1839 × MB&F
Albatross L’Épée 1839 × MB&F
Part sculpture, part machine — the Albatross showcases L’Épée’s mechanical mastery paired with MB&F’s artistic imagination. A kinetic artwork worthy of a spotlight.
Final Thoughts
GPHG 2025 showcased a brilliant mix of heritage maisons, bold independents and artistic explorations that pushed horology to new heights. Whether through extreme thinness, imaginative architecture or the revival of ancient crafts, this year’s winners prove that watchmaking is more alive, creative and emotional than ever.
Rolex has chosen to introduce its very first ceramic dial on an 18 ct white gold version of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. In the same material, with the same green colour and the same lustre, this Cerachrom dial and the daytime half of the green and black bezel insert echo each other perfectly.
Rolex is introducing its first-ever dial made of high-technology ceramic. This inaugural green Cerachrom component makes its debut on an Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II with winding crown on the left side of the case and date aperture at 9 o’clock, a version which additionally, this year, is presented in 18 ct white gold.
The new Cerachrom dial – created in the same way as dials in natural stone, by fitting a disc of material onto a brass plate – displays the same shade of green as the lower half of the two-colour green and black Cerachrom bezel insert that frames the watch face. This perfect tonal harmony, which remains true under all lighting conditions, is achieved by using the same type of ceramic to produce both elements.
This new version of the GMT-Master II is mounted on an Oyster bracelet equipped with an Oysterlock safety clasp.
The GMT-Master II is driven by calibre 3285, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling it to display the date and an additional time zone in 24-hour format, as well as the hours, minutes and seconds.
Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.
ONE INSTRUMENT, SEVERAL TIME ZONES
Designed as a navigation aid for professionals criss-crossing the globe, the GMT-Master became the watch of choice for travellers. It has a unique and instantly recognizable design with a bidirectional rotatable bezel and a 24-hour graduated insert, which has been made available in single-colour versions as well as in various dual-colour combinations – the lower half symbolizing daytime hours and the upper signalling night-time hours. The GMT-Master, a true ‘tool watch’, has evolved continually to offer increasing technical performance. In 1982, Rolex unveiled the GMT-Master II, with a movement allowing the hour hand to be set independently of the other hands.
With traditional hour, minute and seconds hands, a triangle-tipped 24-hour hand, and a bidirectional rotatable bezel with 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert, the GMT-Master II can display the time in two time zones simultaneously: either the local time and a reference time, or the local time and that of an alternative time zone. The date is synchronized with the local time.
HIGH-TECHNOLOGY CERAMIC
Rolex played a pioneering role in the development of special ceramics to create particular elements of its watch cases – notably monobloc bezels and monobloc bezel inserts. Not only are these materials particularly scratch resistant, their colours are also of a rare intensity and are resistant to environmental effects. In addition, thanks to their chemical composition, the high-tech ceramics are inert and cannot corrode. The brand has developed exclusive expertise and innovative manufacturing methods that grant it complete independence in the production of these ceramic components.
On the new version of the GMT-Master II, the bidirectional rotatable bezel is fitted with a two-colour, 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert in green and black ceramic. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with platinum via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The bezel’s knurled edge offers excellent grip and can be manipulated with ease.
THE OYSTER CASE, SYMBOL OF WATERPROOFNESS
A paragon of robustness and reliability, the 40 mm Oyster case of the GMT-Master II is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). The middle case of the version presented is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct white gold. Its case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool employed by approved watchmakers. The Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, which features a Cyclops lens for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses.
CALIBRE 3285
The GMT-Master II is powered by calibre 3285, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2018 and introduced on the model the same year. A distillation of technology, this self-winding mechanical movement delivers outstanding performance, particularly in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.
Calibre 3285 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorous, this escapement is resistant to strong magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with a blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. The hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is mounted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, further enhancing the movement’s shock resistance.
Calibre 3285 is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of this movement extends to approximately 70 hours.
OYSTER BRACELET AND OYSTERLOCK SAFETY CLASP
The GMT-Master II in 18 ct white gold with a green Cerachrom dial matched with the green and black Cerachrom bezel insert is fitted on an Oyster bracelet. Developed in the late 1930s, this three-piece link metal bracelet is known for its robustness.
The Oyster bracelet of the GMT-Master II is furnished with the Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. It also includes the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by Rolex, that allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. On the version presented, it includes patented ceramic inserts – designed by the brand – inside the links to enhance its flexibility on the wrist and its longevity.
SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION
Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, following the official certification of the movements by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). These in-house certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2 /+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone.
The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.
The Hublot MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire marks the next evolution of the brand’s creative collaboration with Daniel Arsham — American artist, sculptor, and Hublot Ambassador. Following the experimental MP-16 Arsham Droplet, this wrist-worn sculpture channels the beauty and movement of water, transforming timekeeping into an art form.
Sculpting Time Through the Art of Fusion
Hublot’s Art of Fusion has long been about blending materials, ideas, and worlds. The MP-17 takes that philosophy to a new dimension — merging Arsham’s “fictional archaeology” with Hublot’s modern mechanical mastery.
Every element — from its frosted sapphire bezel to its microblasted titanium case — celebrates transparency, structure, and motion. The splash-shaped dial opening represents a single moment of impact, forever suspended.
The Mechanics of Motion
Powered by the HUB1205 Manufacture Meca-10 movement, this hand-wound engine delivers a remarkable 10-day power reserve, visible through both the dial and caseback. Measuring 42mm across and just 15.35mm thick, it achieves sculptural balance and everyday wearability — a rare combination in Hublot’s MP series.
Green accents — Arsham’s signature tone — energize the hands, numerals, and power-reserve indicator, while the openworked dial reveals the intricate depth of the movement beneath.
The Fluidity of Time
Arsham once described his work as “collapsing time — you’re not quite sure if it’s an object from the past or the future.”
That tension defines the MP-17 Splash. The design blurs the boundaries between liquid and solid, past and present. It’s an exploration of time as a tangible medium — sculpted, contained, and in perpetual motion.
Edition of 99
Limited to just 99 pieces, the MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire stands as both collectible art and high watchmaking. It invites wearers — and viewers — to perceive time not as it passes, but as it flows.
“This collaboration explores the fluidity of time through a case inspired by the perfect geometry of a water droplet,” says Daniel Arsham. “Its transparent structure captures the clarity and motion of water — suspended, precise, and always in flux.”
In 2025, Patek Philippe introduced a refined addition to its Cubitus collection — the 7128/1R-001 — marrying architectural form with classical horology. With its distinct square-with-softened-edges design and sumptuous rose gold execution, this timepiece commands attention without overstating its presence.
A Design That Speaks Volumes
At first glance, what stands out is the 40 mm diagonal case (corner to corner) sculpted in 18k rose gold. It’s neither oversized nor diminutive — a sweet spot intended to “suit every wrist.” The case surface is treated with alternating vertical satin-brushed and polished finishes, giving depth, subtle contrast, and a tonal tension that keeps the light dancing across its facets.
The corners are softened, and the bracelet integrates seamlessly, blurring the lines between case and strap. The overall silhouette affirms a modern sensibility without abandoning timeless proportions.
Dial & Legibility — Warmth in Brown
The dial is rendered in a sunburst brown hue with a horizontal embossing pattern — itself echoed in the movement’s rotor. Applied rose gold baton hour markers, along with matching hands filled with luminescent material, provide clear legibility even in lower light. A framed date aperture at 3 o’clock provides practicality without overwhelming the visual balance.
Every element is considered, from the consistent motif across surfaces to the proportions between elements — a hallmark of Patek Philippe’s aesthetic discipline.
Movement & Technical Heart
Inside the 7128/1R is the manufacture calibre 26-330 S C — a self-winding movement with sweep seconds, stop-seconds function, and a power reserve of 35 to 45 hours. The movement is just 3.59 mm thick, while the case measures 8.5 mm in overall height.
A signature touch: the rotor is made of 21k gold and decorated with the same horizontal motif that graces the dial — creating a visual link between front and back. And through the sapphire crystal case back, one can admire the movement finishing and architecture — an homage to open craftsmanship.
The movement is built around well-regarded technologies: Gyromax® balance, Spiromax® balance spring, and regulated to 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz).
Bracelet, Comfort & Wearability
The integrated rose gold bracelet shares the same alternation of satin and polished surfaces as the case, continuing the design narrative seamlessly. It closes via a fold-over clasp with a lockable adjustment system, allowing fine tuning of fit.
At just 8.5 mm thick, the overall profile remains slim and comfortable — suitable for daily wear, formal occasions, or even under cuffs.
Practicality & Durability
Though Patek Philippe frames the Cubitus more as a luxury daily than a sports watch, the 7128/1R offers water resistance of 3 bar (≈ 30 m) — enough to withstand casual splashes and everyday exposure. The screw-down crown and robust case construction add security to the design.
The Aesthetic Statement & Market Position
With its warm rose gold exterior and brown dial, the 7128/1R taps into a rich, autumnal palette well suited to both business and evening wear. Its geometric lines and crafted finishes position it as a design statement rather than a mere functional tool.
Final Thoughts
The Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1R-001 is a watch that quietly asserts itself. It is neither overtly sporty nor classically dressy — it lives in a comfortable middle ground, with design ambition and technical integrity married elegantly. For those who appreciate geometry, gold tones, and high watchmaking, it could stand as a signature piece that doesn’t scream but commands respect.
At first glance, the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 glows with an almost hypnotic allure. The dial—a gradient of deep red fading to black—captures the very essence of twilight. Rolex describes it as a “communion of light and shade”, a poetic phrase that beautifully encapsulates both the spirit of the design and the mastery of its creation.
In a landscape where luxury watches often rely on restraint, this red ombré dial stands apart as a daring statement. Inspired by the fleeting warmth of sunset, it is a study in contrast—fire meeting shadow, brilliance meeting depth.
The Datejust Legacy: A Timeless Classic
Few watches embody enduring elegance quite like the Rolex Datejust. Since its introduction in 1945, the Datejust has remained an archetype of classic watchmaking—combining practicality with poise. It was the first automatic, waterproof chronometer wristwatch to display the date at 3 o’clock, revolutionizing wristwatch functionality.
Eighty years later, its appeal remains undimmed. Every new iteration is a dialogue between Rolex’s storied past and its forward-looking innovation. The 2025 red ombré model continues this legacy, adding a bold splash of color to an icon known for quiet confidence.
A Fiery First: The Red Ombré Dial
This is the first time Rolex has rendered the ombré dial in such a vivid, fiery tone. Originally introduced in 2019 and reserved for the Day-Date, the ombré design uses PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) to create its distinctive gradient — a subtle yet striking play of color that intensifies toward the outer rim.
The red ombré dial on this Datejust 31 feels like molten gold meeting shadow — expressive yet elegantly restrained. Surrounding the dial are 46 brilliant-cut diamonds, framing the color like sparks at the edge of a flame. Ten more diamonds serve as hour markers, each set in 18 ct yellow gold, offering a luxurious rhythm of sparkle and hue.
The Oyster Case: Symbol of Strength and Elegance
The 31 mm Oyster case, crafted from a solid block of 18 ct yellow gold, reflects Rolex’s unmatched craftsmanship. Its proportions balance grace and durability—refined yet robust. The Twinlock winding crown ensures waterproofness up to 100 metres (330 feet), while the sapphire crystal with its Cyclops lens guarantees clarity and scratch resistance.
Every curve, polish, and surface of the case has been refined to capture light in motion. This is not merely a protective shell—it’s a statement of permanence.
Inside the Movement: Calibre 2236
At the heart of this watch beats the Rolex Calibre 2236, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Introduced in 2014, and fitted to this model since 2018, it remains one of the brand’s most advanced calibres for smaller timepieces.
Equipped with the Syloxi hairspring in silicon and the paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escape wheel, the Calibre 2236 ensures resistance to shocks, temperature variations, and magnetic fields. Rolex’s patented Paraflex shock absorbers and Perpetual rotor guarantee optimal performance with a power reserve of approximately 55 hours.
In typical Rolex fashion, the technical brilliance remains discreet—hidden beneath a case back that needs no exhibition window to prove its worth.
The President Bracelet: Prestige Refined
Created in 1956 for the launch of the Day-Date, the President bracelet remains one of Rolex’s most recognizable and prestigious designs. Reserved exclusively for precious metal versions of the Datejust and Day-Date, it blends seamless comfort with iconic aesthetics.
The three-piece solid links, crafted in 18 ct yellow gold, feature polished center links and satin-finished outer links—a tactile reminder of Rolex’s dual mastery of craft and ergonomics. Inside, patented ceramic inserts enhance flexibility and longevity. The concealed Crownclasp ensures a flawless visual continuity.
The Superlative Standard
Every Rolex watch undergoes stringent in-house testing under the Superlative Chronometer certification, redefined by Rolex in 2015. This guarantees exceptional precision (−2/+2 seconds per day), waterproofness, and durability.
The hallmark green seal accompanying each watch is not merely symbolic—it represents Rolex’s five-year international guarantee and its pursuit of horological excellence.
Why It Matters: The New Expression of the Classic
The Datejust 31 red ombré isn’t just a new dial variation—it’s a confident evolution of a timeless silhouette. It brings emotion to engineering, warmth to precision, and a renewed sense of individuality to a collection that has long stood for universal elegance.
It’s a reminder that even within the disciplined world of Rolex, art and feeling still have their place.
Technical Specifications
Model: Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 (Ref. 278288RBR) Case: 31 mm Oyster case in 18 ct yellow gold, diamond-set bezel Dial: Red ombré with sunray finish, 10 diamond hour markers Movement: Calibre 2236, self-winding mechanical, Syloxi hairspring Power Reserve: Approximately 55 hours Water Resistance: 100 metres / 330 feet Bracelet: President, 18 ct yellow gold with concealed Crownclasp
Final Impression
The 2025 Rolex Datejust 31 with red ombré dial encapsulates the duality of light and emotion, elegance and endurance. With its distinctive color gradient, exquisite gem-setting, and technological mastery, it transcends the boundaries of timekeeping to become wearable art.
In a world of fleeting trends, Rolex once again proves that true innovation lies not in change, but in evolution.
Jaeger-LeCoultre brings contemporary allure to one of its classical, signature complications with a new interpretation of the Master Control Calendar. The grained dial in two shades of grey pays a subtle homage to the sector dials of the mid-20th century, while offering a contemporary interpretation of a classic design. Powered by Calibre 866, the new model will be offered in a limited edition of 500 pieces.
Inspired by two Historic References
Renowned for the triple calendar moon-phase movements that it developed in the 1940s, and that were adopted by several other leading Maisons, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced a new version of the complication in 2020 as part of the relaunched Master Control collection. 50 years after creating its first triple calendar movements, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the Master Control Collection in 1992, naming it after its pioneering ‘1000 Hours Control’ certification. The certification protocol, which set a new standard at the time by testing the entire cased-up watch, has continually evolved in response to technological advances. The Collection also established its own aesthetic codes, defined by technical rigour and stylistic restraint, reinterpreting the classic round watches of the 1950s to create a timeless yet contemporary elegance.
A distinctive new visual approach
The classical triple calendar complication – also known as a complete calendar – shows the day, date, month, and moon-phases, with the days and months in the upper half of the dial, the moon-phase in the lower part and the dates marked around the periphery, indicated by a hand.
Key Facts:
• Contemporary allure: a new two-tone and grained sector dial which creates a distinctive aesthetic, presented in a limited edition of 500 pieces
• A signature complication: inspired by the Maison’s renowned Triple Calendar movements of the 1940s
• A high-performing movement: the Calibre 866 delivers a 70-hour power reserve and a complete calendar, featuring a jumping date hand that ensures an unobstructed view of the moon-phase indication
The two-tone effect of the new grained dial creates a visually compelling and highly legible version of this classical layout, with indications divided into distinct sections defined by alternating shades of light and dark grey. In the lighter-toned centre, the day and month windows are positioned at the top, with black decal indications on white discs. In the lower part of the central area, the moon phase display is contained within the small seconds sub-dial. Set against a blue sky dotted with stars, the polished moon subtly reflects the dark grey hue of the ring displaying the hours. Outside the hour circle, the minutes chapter ring is light grey, while the outermost circle displays the date against a dark grey background. The contrast between the light and dark greys is amplified by the way the grained texture of the dial absorbs and reflects the light differently, according to the shade of grey. Small flashes of red on the date indications around the dial and on the date hand add a discreet touch of contrast. The new dial retains all the other design codes of the Master Control collection: the elongated triangular applied indexes, complemented by Arabic numerals at 12, 3, and 9; the faceted Dauphine hands, polished on one side and brushed on the other; and the finely balanced, classical layout of the indications. Completing the signature aesthetic, the 40 mm Master Control case features refined finishes – polished on the bezel and the top of the lugs, and finely brushed along the sides, exuding a relaxed and understated elegance.
The in-house mechanical movement
Equipped with the Manufacture’s calendar movement Calibre 866, the Master Control Calendar displays hours, minutes, seconds, complete calendar and moon-phase indications. The high-performance selfwinding movement offers a power reserve of 70 hours. Calibre 866 introduces an original and fascinating new variation to the traditional format of dates marked around the outer periphery and indicated by a hand. In homage to the beauty of the moon-phase, the date hand is fitted with a rapid-gliding feature, signalled by red arrows on the date ring. Once a month, between the 15th and the 16th, the red-tipped date hand leaps swiftly across the 90 degrees that separate the two dates, ensuring that the moon-phase display is never obscured. With the Master Control Calendar, Jaeger-LeCoultre builds upon its legacy of innovation and accomplishment in a continuing evolution of technical expertise and creative design. The new dial pays homage to one of the Maison’s signature complications, reimagining its aesthetic for the 21st century.
Technical Characteristics: Master Control Calendar
Case: Stainless steel Dimensions: 40 mm x 10.95 mm Calibre: Self-winding Manufacture Calibre 866 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, month, day, date, moon-phase Power Reserve: 70 hours Dial: Two-tone grey grained Water resistance: 5 bar Strap: Black calfskin, interchangeable Buckle: Interchangeable double folding clasp Reference: Q4148450 Limited Edition: 500 pieces
Her name is Catrina. She is one of the very few female incarnations of death in the Mexican Day of the Dead (Día de los Muertos). Jaquet Droz has adopted this unusual, exuberant and disruptive character in line with its own approach to master craftsmanship. The result is a unique piece in red gold that exhibits a mastery of micro-painting, paillonné and grand feu enamel, for the benefit of a single collector.
A web of mythology surrounds it. It is not known precisely what year she was born. 1912? 1913? This calavera, the emblematic figure of the Mexican Day of the Dead, seems to have sprung from the imagination of an illustrator. And while the first female calaveras appeared in 1889, it was not until 1930 that this one was given her official name – Catrina. The great lady has spanned the decades with consummate ease. Now, a century later, she has crossed continents to appear at the Jaquet Droz workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
With this unique piece, Jaquet Droz is demonstrating its independence. Not to mention its audacity. By moving away from the masculine clichés of the skull, Catrina offers a neo-romantic vision of the Mexican floral. Contrary to custom, here we see a richly coloured figure surrounded by a wreath of flowers. In keeping with the naturalist spirit that has inspired it for nearly three centuries, Jaquet Droz has appropriated this dazzling floral myth of Mexican culture.
The figure of Catrina occupies the right two thirds of the dial. It’s all about the details: the two whites divided between the face and the smile, with two different levels of contrast, the minute variations in pink and violet, the shades of the gold dots with the two hands in red gold, and the green, sometimes bright and clear, sometimes dark and threatening.
This contrast is underscored by the diversity of craftsmanship on display. Catrina’s head is in micro-paint, but the floral base on the left of the dial is in grand feu enamel. The foliage is hand-engraved on a 1.1 mm thick gold dial. Each leaf has a different depth, and is filled with enamel powder and fired several times.
In this case, the gold dots are not hand-painted, but rather paillons. The technique, which Jaquet Droz has been using for nearly three centuries, consists of capturing tiny hand-chiselled motifs in gold leaf under a thin layer of invisible varnish. In the same spirit, the lightness of the freehand micro-painting contrasts with the watchmaking rigour of the tourbillon visible at 12 o’clock. Within its ocular orbit, it features a high-precision mechanism with an 8-day power reserve. The choice of a flying tourbillon, with no upper bridge, offers a bird’s-eye view of the watch’s regulating organ. This ballet, orchestrated to the micron, offers a precise measurement of time in defiance of Catrina – herself unconcerned with the whole concept – and with a rigour to which she seems oblivious.
On the back, this great lady of Dia de los Muertos asserts her femininity with a final flourish that is only visible to collectors. Its mother-of-pearl oscillating weight is decorated with two gold star appliques edged with multicoloured foliage. Created entirely by hand by Jaquet Droz artists, the Catrina Skull in a 39 mm red gold is a model for a unique collector.
Rolex has chosen to introduce its very first ceramic dial on an 18 ct white gold version of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. In the same material, with the same green colour and the same lustre, this Cerachrom dial and the daytime half of the green and black bezel insert echo each other perfectly.
The perfect match
Rolex is introducing its first-ever dial made of high-technology ceramic. This inaugural green Cerachrom component makes its debut on an Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II with winding crown on the left side of the case and date aperture at 9 o’clock, a version which additionally, this year, is presented in 18 ct white gold.
The new Cerachrom dial – created in the same way as dials in natural stone, by fitting a disc of material onto a brass plate – displays the same shade of green as the lower half of the two-colour green and black Cerachrom bezel insert that frames the watch face.This perfect tonal harmony, which remains true under all lighting conditions, is achieved by using the same type of ceramic to produce both elements.
This new version of the GMT-Master II is mounted on an Oyster bracelet equipped with an Oysterlock safety clasp.
The GMT-Master II is driven by calibre 3285, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling it to display the date and an additional time zone in 24-hour format, as well as the hours, minutes and seconds.
Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.
One instrument, several time zones
Designed as a navigation aid for professionals criss-crossing the globe, the GMT-Master became the watch of choice for travellers. It has a unique and instantly recognizable design with a bidirectional rotatable bezel and a 24-hour graduated insert, which has been made available in single-colour versions as well as in various dual-colour combinations – the lower half symbolizing daytime hours and the upper signalling night-time hours. The GMT-Master, a true ‘tool watch’, has evolved continually to offer increasing technical performance. In 1982, Rolex unveiled the
GMT-Master II, with a movement allowing the hour hand to be set independently of the other hands.
With traditional hour, minute and seconds hands, a triangle- tipped 24-hour hand, and a bidirectional rotatable bezel with 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert, the GMT-Master II can display the time in two time zones simultaneously: either the local time and a reference time, or the local time and that of an alternative time zone. The date is synchronized with the local time.
High-technology ceramic
Rolex played a pioneering role in the development of special ceramics to create particular elements of its watch cases – notably monobloc bezels and monobloc bezel inserts. Not only are these materials particularly scratch resistant, their colours are also of a rare intensity and are resistant to environmental effects. In addition, thanks to their chemical composition, the high-tech ceramics are inert and cannot corrode. The brand has developed exclusive expertise and innovative manufacturing methods that grant it complete independence in the production of these ceramic components.
On the new version of the GMT-Master II, the bidirectional rotatable bezel is fitted with a two-colour, 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert in green and black ceramic. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with platinum via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The bezel’s knurled edge offers excellent grip and can be manipulated with ease.
The Oyster case, symbol of waterproofness
A paragon of robustness and reliability, the 40 mm Oyster case of the GMT-Master II is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). The middle case of the version presented is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct white gold. Its case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool employed by approved watchmakers. The Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, which features a Cyclops lens for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses.
Calibre 3285
The GMT-Master II is powered by calibre 3285, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2018 and introduced on the model the same year. A distillation of technology, this self-winding mechanical movement delivers outstanding performance, particularly in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.
Calibre 3285 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorous, this escapement is resistant to strong magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with a blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in
a paramagnetic alloy. The hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is mounted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, further enhancing the movement’s shock resistance.
Calibre 3285 is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of this movement extends to approximately 70 hours.
Oyster bracelet and Oysterlock safety clasp
The GMT-Master II in 18 ct white gold with a green Cerachrom dial matched with the green and black Cerachrom bezel insert is fitted on an Oyster bracelet. Developed in the late 1930s, this three-piece link metal bracelet is known for its robustness.
The Oyster bracelet of the GMT-Master II is furnished with the Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. It also includes the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by Rolex, that allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. On the version presented, it includes patented ceramic inserts – designed by the brand – inside the links to enhance its flexibility on the wrist and its longevity.
Superlative Chronometer certification
Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, following the official certification of the movements by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). These in-house certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding.
The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2 /+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone.
The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.
Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
Case reference
126729 VTNR
Bracelet reference
79209 Oyster
Category
Oyster Perpetual Professional
Certification
Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)
International five-year guarantee
Case
Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Safety
Integral crown guard Measurements
Measurements
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 11.90 mm – Lug width: 20 mm
Material
18 ct white gold Middle case
18 ct white gold, satin finish with polished sides
Bezel
18 ct white gold, bidirectional rotatable
24-hour graduated monobloc two-colour
Cerachrom insert in green and black ceramic; moulded, recessed graduations and numerals coated with platinum via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition)
Case back
18 ct white gold, solid, screw-down with fine fluting
Winding crown
Triplock in 18 ct white gold, screw-down, triple waterproofness system
Crystal
Scratch-resistant sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Cyclops lens over the date
with double anti-reflective coating
Waterproofness
100 metres (330 feet)
Movement Dial
Calibre 3285, Manufacture Rolex
Mechanical movement with bidirectional
self-winding via Perpetual rotor
Precision
−2/+2 sec./day, after casing Functions
Functions
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands – Local time via conventional hands,
independent rapid-setting of the hour hand
Reference time via additional 24-hour hand
Instantaneous date at 9 o’clock, secure setting via the hour hand
Stop-seconds for exact time setting
Oscillator
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring – Rolex overcoil
Large balance wheel with variable inertia – High-precision regulating via four gold
Microstella nuts
Traversing balance bridge
High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers
Dial
Cerachrom in green ceramic
Hour markers in 18 ct white gold,
highly legible Chromalight (long-lasting
luminescence, blue glow)
Hands in 18 ct white gold,
highly legible Chromalight (long-lasting luminescence, blue glow)
Escapement
Chronergy with optimized energy efficiency – Paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus pallet fork and escape wheel
Jewelling
31 rubies
Power reserve
Approximately 70 hours
Bracelet
Oyster, three-piece solid links
18 ct white gold, polished centre links,
satin-finished outer links with polished edges;
ceramic inserts
Oysterlock folding safety clasp in
18 ct white gold
Easylink comfort extension link (approx. 5 mm)
