ZENITH at LVMH Watch Week 2026: DEFY as Design, DEFY as Destiny

At LVMH Watch Week 2026 in Milan, ZENITH presents a sharply focused vision—one that places the DEFY collection at the centre of its contemporary identity. Across revival pieces, refined three-hand models, ceramic chronographs, skeletonized movements, and a high-frequency tourbillon, ZENITH makes one thing clear: DEFY is no longer a category. It is a philosophy.

This year’s novelties explore the idea of urban resilience—how architecture, precision, and material innovation come together to create watches designed not only to be admired, but to endure.

DEFY Revival A3643: The Origin of the DEFY Language

The DEFY story begins in 1969, and in 2026, ZENITH returns to one of its earliest and most defining references: the DEFY Revival A3643.

True to the historical model, the watch features the legendary “Time-Safe” case, protected by a screwed 14-sided bezel and caseback—a design conceived to withstand extreme conditions. Rendered in stainless steel and sized at 37mm, the proportions remain faithful to the original while feeling perfectly attuned to modern preferences for compact, versatile watches.

A silver dial with applied indices and Super-LumiNova® ensures clarity, while the integrated steel bracelet—with a modern micro-adjustment clasp—adds contemporary comfort. Powering the watch is the Elite 670, a calibre that represents a milestone in ZENITH’s manufacture history: precise, slim, and engineered for long-term reliability.

Importantly, the A3643 is more than a revival. Its angular case architecture directly inspired the design language of the modern DEFY Skyline collection—making this watch the conceptual cornerstone of the entire DEFY universe.

DEFY Skyline 36mm: Modern Geometry in Refined Proportions

With the DEFY Skyline 36mm, ZENITH refines its urban design vocabulary into a more compact, unisex format without sacrificing presence.

The stainless-steel case retains the Skyline’s distinctive angular silhouette and dodecagonal bezel, while a new white-toned sunray dial introduces a softer, more luminous expression of the collection’s signature four-pointed star pattern. The result is a watch that feels architectural yet elegant—sporty, but undeniably refined.

Two interpretations define the range:

  • a classic steel bezel for understated versatility

  • a diamond-set dodecagonal bezel (52 diamonds, 1 carat) that elevates the watch into a more jewellery-forward territory while remaining unmistakably DEFY

Inside, the Elite 670 once again delivers automatic precision with a 50-hour power reserve. An interchangeable bracelet system with an additional rubber strap reinforces the Skyline’s everyday adaptability.

This is DEFY at its most accessible—confident, balanced, and effortlessly contemporary.

DEFY Skyline Chronograph Black Ceramic: High-Frequency, High Impact

The DEFY Skyline Chronograph Black Ceramic introduces a more assertive expression of the collection’s urban identity.

Clad entirely in black ceramic, the 42mm case and dodecagonal bezel amplify the Skyline’s sharp geometry while offering exceptional scratch resistance and durability. The black sunray dial, engraved with the star motif, creates depth and contrast beneath luminous applied indices.

At its core is the El Primero 3600, ZENITH’s modern high-frequency chronograph calibre. Beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, it enables true 1/10th of a second measurement, displayed directly and intuitively. Despite this technical performance, the movement maintains a robust 60-hour power reserve, underscoring ZENITH’s mastery of efficiency at high frequency.

This watch embodies DEFY’s performance ethos—precision expressed through material innovation and architectural clarity.

DEFY Skyline Skeleton Black Ceramic: Transparency with Intent

Skeletonization within the DEFY collection is not decorative—it is structural. The DEFY Skyline Skeleton Black Ceramic demonstrates this philosophy with striking clarity.

The 41mm black ceramic case frames a skeletonized movement finished in rose-gold-toned PVD, creating a powerful contrast between darkness and warmth. The openworked architecture follows ZENITH’s star-shaped design language, ensuring that every bridge serves both mechanical and visual purpose.

Powering the watch is the El Primero 3620 SK, a high-frequency automatic movement that features a 1/10th of a second indicator designed for smooth, continuous motion. An integrated braking system prevents hand jumping, allowing the indicator to rotate fluidly—an example of functional innovation hidden beneath visual drama.

The result is a watch that reveals its mechanics without compromising legibility or balance.

DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton: A High-Frequency First

The most significant technical statement of ZENITH’s 2026 presentation arrives in the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton, limited to 50 pieces worldwide.

For the first time, ZENITH combines a high-frequency 5Hz tourbillon with a fully skeletonized architecture inside the DEFY Skyline case. Crafted in rose gold, the 41mm watch houses the El Primero 3630, a movement that redefines the relationship between complexity and efficiency.

The tourbillon cage—shaped like ZENITH’s iconic double-Z star—completes one rotation per minute at 6 o’clock. Despite the energy demands of a high-frequency tourbillon, the movement delivers an impressive 60-hour power reserve, achieved through an ultra-light aluminium cage weighing just 0.25 grams.

This watch represents the summit of the DEFY philosophy: architectural design, high-frequency precision, and haute horlogerie expertise unified in a single, uncompromising creation.

DEFY in 2026: A Unified Vision

Across every model unveiled at LVMH Watch Week 2026, ZENITH communicates a clear and disciplined message. DEFY is not defined by complication or material alone—it is defined by structure, frequency, and intent.

From the historical foundations of the A3643 to the technical audacity of the tourbillon skeleton, the DEFY collection expresses a singular vision of modern watchmaking—one that is urban, resilient, and relentlessly forward-looking.

In 2026, ZENITH does not chase trends.
It builds frameworks—and dares time to keep up.

Zenith DEFY Chronograph USM limited edition

Two pillars of Swiss excellence, ZENITH and USM Modular Furniture, have come together to launch an exclusive watch collection that fuses horological mastery with architectural ingenuity.

This collaboration pays tribute to the groundbreaking spirit of the 1960s — the decade that saw the creation of the USM Haller modular system (1965) and the debut of ZENITH’s revolutionary El Primero chronograph (1969). Reimagining what might have happened had their creative paths crossed at that pivotal moment, ZENITH and USM present a bold reinterpretation of the original ZENITH DEFY, now introduced as a chronograph. The result reflects their shared values: Swiss precision, purposeful aesthetics, and a vision of modernity that transcends time. Accompanied by a custom-designed USM Haller timepiece chest created specifically for this edition, the timepiece reflects a mutual elevation of watchmaking and modular design, a thoughtful interplay where each enhances the other. Together, they form a cohesive whole where design and precision meet: this timepiece embodies a seamless blend of form and function. More than a collaboration, it is a statement of enduring craftsmanship and forward-thinking vision. Conceived to resonate not only with collectors and aficionados of fine watchmaking, but also with designers, architects, and art enthusiasts, this capsule edition pays tribute to creative minds and visionaries across disciplines.

To bring this original collaboration to life, ZENITH and USM delved into the bold spirit of the 1960s — a transformative era that redefined form and function, and a pivotal moment in the histories of both brands. Asking themselves, “What might these two icons of Swiss craftsmanship have created together back then?”, they set out to design something entirely new, a timepiece that never was, yet one that seamlessly channels the aesthetic and cultural codes of the era.

The 1969 ZENITH DEFY served as the natural starting point for this creative fusion. With its sharply angular case and faceted contours, the DEFY’s bold, octagonal silhouette and fourteen-sided bezel echo the signature design language of USM — celebrating clarity, structure, and strength. The result is a striking interplay of geometry and surface, where each finish reflects the shared values of both houses.

Though the original DEFY was offered in multiple iterations and laid the foundation for today’s DEFY collection, it was never produced as a chronograph.

The new DEFY Chronograph USM is, in essence, a piece of “imagined heritage” — an answer to the question: What if the 1969 DEFY had been equipped with the groundbreaking El Primero, the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph? And further still, what if it had drawn subtle inspiration from another design icon of the same era, the USM Haller system?

Patented in 1965, the USM Haller modular furniture system has become a cult symbol of enduring modernity. Defined by its chrome-plated steel tubes, connector ball joints, and coloured metal panels, it remains a masterpiece of clarity, versatility, and industrial elegance. Decades later, its capacity to evolve and inspire creative expression remains unmatched, a perfect counterpart to ZENITH’s own legacy of precision and innovation.

The DEFY Chronograph USM is housed in a compact 37.3 mm stainless steel case that stays true to the bold geometry of the original DEFY. Its octagonal shape is accentuated by a 14-sided bezel, while pump-style chronograph pushers enhance its vintage-inspired silhouette. The watch is paired with the iconic “ladder” bracelet, originally designed in 1969 by the renowned Gay Frères company exclusively for ZENITH. Water resistance is rated at 10 ATM, ensuring robustness to match its design integrity.

The dial is marked by applied square hour markers with horizontal grooves, reinforcing the watch’s architectural character. Available in four vibrant USM signature colours – USM Green, USM Pure Orange, USM Golden Yellow, and USM Gentian Blue – each variation pays homage to the modular aesthetic of the USM Haller system. The three overlapping chronograph counters are rendered in silver with a fine concentric circular finish, adding both texture and depth, a subtle nod to the iconic USM handle through their rhodium-plated azuré pattern.
A subtle yet playful detail: the chronograph second hand is tipped with a miniature USM Haller ball joint, filled with SuperLuminova for visibility in low light. When the chronograph is activated, it reveals the ZENITH star cleverly hidden beneath, a nod to the intricate storytelling woven into the piece. Each dial colour is produced in a limited edition of 60 pieces.

At the heart of the DEFY Chronograph USM is the legendary El Primero 400 calibre, built upon the legacy of the iconic El Primero 3019 PHC, the world’s first automatic high-frequency chronograph introduced by ZENITH in 1969. Over 55 years later, this movement continues to set the standard in precision chronometry with its 5Hz high-frequency escapement, automatic winding, and column-wheel chronograph architecture. It powers central hour and minute hands, small seconds at 9 o’clock, chronograph functions, and a date window at 4:30.

Visible through the transparent sapphire case-back, the movement’s rotor is adorned with an openworked ZENITH star motif, flanked by the ZENITH El Primero and USM logos, a refined detail that speaks to the harmony between horological and architectural precision.

Each watch is available individually or as a set, and each option includes exclusive USM Modular furniture and a unique watch box. The DEFY Chronograph is available exclusively from ZENITH’s physical, online boutiques and through authorized retailers worldwide.

A tribute to timeless design

Benoit de Clerck, CEO of ZENITH: “This partnership unites the excellence of Swiss design and horology, embodying a mutual appreciation for enduring, modern aesthetics. The modular design of USM Haller, celebrated for its functional beauty, resonates with our own dedication to craftsmanship in watchmaking.”

Alexander Schärer, CEO & President of the Board: “Both USM Modular Furniture and ZENITH were founded as owner-driven workshops integrated in a microcosm of Swiss craftsmanship — a shared origin that has naturally guided us toward partnership. ZENITH is a company that not only mirrors our heritage, but also embodies values profoundly aligned with our own. Though our products, industries, and even our clientele may appear distinct at first glance, they are ultimately bound by a shared devotion to timeless quality, refined aesthetics, and purposeful functionality.”

DEFY CHRONOGRAPH USM
Reference: 03.A780.400/19.M3642

Key points: Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph movement. Silicon escape-wheel and lever. Screwed-in crown.
Limited edition of 60 pieces.
Movement: El Primero 400
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours
Functions: Functions: Hours and minutes in the center, small seconds at 9 o’clock Chronograph: – Central chronograph hand – 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock – 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock Date indication at 4:30
Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” motif and bearing Zenith & USM Logo
Price: 10’900 CHF
Material: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Case: 37 mm
Dial: USM Gentian Blue
Hour markers: Rhodium-plated
Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1
Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel “ladder” bracelet

DEFY CHRONOGRAPH USM
Reference: 03.A780.400-1/65.M3642

Key points: Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph movement. Silicon escape-wheel and lever. Screwed-in crown.
Limited edition of 60 pieces.
Movement: El Primero 400
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours
Functions: Hours and minutes in the center, small seconds at 9 o’clock Chronograph: – Central chronograph hand – 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock – 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock Date indication at 4:30
Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” motif and bearing Zenith & USM Logo
Price: 10’900 CHF
Material: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Case: 37 mm
Dial: USM Golden Yellow
Hour markers: Rhodium-plated
Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1
Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel “ladder” bracelet

DEFY CHRONOGRAPH USM
Reference: 03.A780.400-2/91.M3642

Key points: Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph movement. Silicon escape-wheel and lever. Screwed-in crown.
Limited edition of 60 pieces.
Movement: El Primero 400
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours
Functions: Hours and minutes in the center, small seconds at 9 o’clock Chronograph: – Central chronograph hand – 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock – 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock Date indication at 4:30
Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” motif and bearing Zenith & USM Logo
Price: 10’900 CHF
Material: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Case: 37 mm
Dial: USM green
Hour markers: Rhodium-plated
Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1
Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel “ladder” bracelet

DEFY CHRONOGRAPH USM
Reference: 03.A780.400-3/56.M3642

Key points: Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph movement. Silicon escape-wheel and lever. Screwed-in crown.
Limited edition of 60 pieces.
Movement: El Primero 400
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours
Functions: Hours and minutes in the center, small seconds at 9 o’clock Chronograph: – Central chronograph hand – 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock – 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock Date indication at 4:30
Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” motif and bearing Zenith & USM Logo
Price: 10’900 CHF
Material: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Case: 37 mm
Dial: USM Pure Orange
Hour markers: Rhodium-plated
Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1
Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel “ladder” bracelet

 

 

ZENITH AND TIME+TIDE UNVEIL THEIR THIRD AND FINAL “SURFER” LIMITED EDITION, THE DEFY SKYLINE SKELETON WHITE SURFER CERAMIC

Big box office hits often lead to sequels. Blockbusters, however, need a “threequel” for completion. Following the sell-out success of the micro-blasted titanium DEFY Classic Skeleton Night Surfer in 2021 and DEFY Skyline Skeleton Night Surfer El Primero in 2023, ZENITH and Time+Tide now unveil their
third and final collaboration in the “Surfer Trilogy”. Introducing the DEFY Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic. This new limited-edition watch retain a blue gradient openworked dial concept that is consistent across all three editions. It is a summer dream of a combination, with a beach-inspired twist.

Following the dark micro-blasted titanium editions from the first two collaborations between the Manufacture and the media & retail trailblazers, the DEFY Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic offers a fresh take on this bold, architectural timepiece. Sleek and cool on the wrist, its 41mm case combines modern resilience, versatility, and comfort—being ultra-light and scratch-resistant enough for a day on the sand. With a screw-down crown and water resistance of 10 ATM (100 metres), the DEFY Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic is just as ready to head into the waves.

Perfectly complementing the white ceramic case and integrated ceramic bracelet is its gradient blue open dial and skeletonised movement. Continuing from the first two ZENITH x Time+Tide collaborations’ concept, the open dial fades from darker blue at the top to a breezy light blue at the bottom. The bridges of the dial adopt the form of ZENITH’s five-pointed star which is comprised of Super-LumiNova to enhance visual impact at night. This is a return to a design feature from the original DEFY Classic Skeleton Night Surfer – the only other time in its history that ZENITH has offered a luminescent star
logo.

Visible through this openworked dial, as well as the sapphire display back, is the skeletonised automatic high-frequency El Primero 3620 SK caliber. In another important premiere, the caliber has been rendered to match the star-shaped bridges, offering the wearer a seamless light blue tone to the dial.

Derived from the iconic ZENITH high-frequency El Primero chronograph movement, it displays the hours and minutes while its 1/10th of a second hand is driven directly from the escapement, which beats at 5Hz (36’000 VpH). Its ‘hacking seconds’ mechanism allows for precise time-setting. The bi directional automatic winding mechanism delivers a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. In keeping with the watch’s theme, its mainplate, bridges and star-shaped rotor are rendered in a striking blue finish.

The versatile DEFY Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic comes on an integrated white ceramic bracelet. A white patterned rubber strap is also provided to make the most of the case’s ingenious quick strap-change mechanism which requires no tools to operate.

“With this third chapter in our collaboration, we’re not just continuing a story, we’re elevating it. Each edition has deepened our creative dialogue, and this new release is the boldest expression yet of what we can achieve together.” Benoît de Clerck, CEO of ZENITH.

“There’s a huge risk in trying for a trilogy when the first two collabs have been so popular, but when we saw the prototype of an ‘inverted’ Night Surfer, in brushed white ceramic, we just had to make it happen. The gradient light blue dial sealed it. Best summer watch ever.” Andrew McUtchen, Founder of Time+Tide

The ZENITH Defy Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic is a limited edition of 100 watches, available from Time + Tide, from authorized ZENITH retailers worldwide as well as ZENITH physical and online boutiques around the world.

DEFY SKYLINE SKELETON WHITE SURFER CERAMIC

Reference: 49.9309.3620/85.I001
Key points: : El Primero 3-hand watch. High frequency indication: 1/10th of a
second subdial at 6 o’clock. Silicon escape-wheel and lever. Screwed-in crown. Full
Interchangeable strap system.
Limited edition of 100 pieces.
Movement: El Primero 3620 SK automatic
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours
Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre 1/10th of a second counter at 6
o’clock
Finishes: Light blue colored main plate on movement + Special light blue colored
oscillating weight with satined finishings.
Price: 18’900 CHF / 20’500 Euros / 19’600 USD
Material: White Ceramic
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Case: 41mm
Dial: Gradient blue
Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1
Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1
Bracelet & Buckle: White ceramic bracelet and folding clasp. Comes with a white rubber strap
with starry sky pattern and folding clasp.