Monthly Archives: May 2024

TRILOBE: Une Folle Journée, A Crazy Day

Posted on by
Reply

An invitation to reach new heights

Remaining faithful to their Maison’s offset artistic DNA, Une Folle Journée is a piece which echoes Trilobe’s first editions and puts our fundamental pillars into perspective. With its rotating and floating eccentric rings, this collection hits new heights by combining fine watchmaking traditions with a contemporary design.

Breaking away from the rules and diving into a singular creativity, Une Folle Journée is surprising challenge for laymen and an ode to watchmaking extravagance.

Trilobe, a conceptual reversal

It’s 07 hours, 19 minutes and 24 seconds.
Yesterday, time was frozen under rotating hands. With the Trilobe watch, time starts moving. Three rotating rings rush forward, carrying with them the scales of time: the largest ring for hours, the median one for minutes, the smallest one for seconds.

Trilobe’s Innovation: Time. Liberated.

The watch hits new heights to forge a technical bond between its off- centre rings and its X-Centric signature movement. The dial, open for the first time, enables to savour the watchmaking craftsmanship of a Swiss Made calibre, without losing sight of the rotating rings’ singularity. This is what makes the strength of Trilobe’s innovation: the rings are intrinsic to the movement, which alone makes it possible to free time.

A movement in space

The unfolding of the complication, signed by Trilobe, gives curious onlookers the opportunity to contemplate a striking movement powerfully revisited. The three-dimensional design offers a view on a technical motor assembly with 196 custom-made components. This redesigned X-Centric calibre, is taking shape around multi-tiered bridges and plates, whose sharp edges have been carefully polished by hand or with diamond tools to emphasize the sandblasting performed on their plane surfaces. The watch offers, to those who wish to see, an harmony of textures and hints, thus at the source of a delicate chiaroscuro.

The rings propelled into the air

The three rings of the hours, minutes and seconds are tiered and fly at a 10.2mm height, a true watchmaking prowess. Projected in space and balanced by 9 pillars, Trilobe’s rings are each the result of a complex assembly.

A titanium hollowed and polished cornice holds an intern curved satin ring also made of titanium. Chosen for its lightness, the titanium-aluminium-vanadium alloy is one of the most dense and complex to work with. Catching fire during its machining process and extremely difficult to polish, especially at such a small scale, this alloy offers an exceptional level of finishes once processed. But its unparalleled lightness is overall the characteristic that allows to propel the three eccentric rings into the air, which are floating under the dome. A real technical challenge in the equilibrium of forces for this new collection.

The precision of the pad-printed numerals on the concave curved rings highlights an exceptional watchmaking know-how. A pointer enables a direct reading of the hours, minutes and seconds.

A wind of freedom

Une Folle Journée, Beaumarchais (The Marriage of Figaro)

The brilliant rhythm of a thrilling storyline which takes us on an unforgettable journey. One of enthusiasm, passion, and panache. Following in the footsteps of Figaro, the main purpose with this piece is to shatter the shackles of tradition by passionately embracing freedom and emancipation. While Beaumarchais, well-known playwright and clockmaker to the King of France, sharpens his pen to fight against a narrow-minded society, Trilobe makes a creative statement in favour of X-Centricity. This freedom bias gives rise to an artistic take: break the rules, ban hands. More than an invitation, Une Folle Journée urges you to embrace your difference.

A take-off under a sapphire dome

The rings take off under a colossal sapphire bubble of 10.2 mm in height. Manufactured in Japan, using flame fusion, this sapphire dome is then smoothened and polished in Switzerland. The sapphire is the second hardest and most durable material after diamond, thus offering a perfectly transparent surface standing the test of time.

Like a flying saucer

Une Folle Journée comes in a titanium grade 5 case, with a case middle alternating polished and satin finish. Une Folle Journée indicates on its back a 50m water-resistance. Look closely… we traded the fish, traditional symbol for water-resistance, for a floating duck. One of those steps sideways dear to Trilobe.

Une Folle Journée Dune:  A two-tone design

For this new edition, the three iconic levitating rings, in permanent rotation, don a stormy grey dress. These three discs are highlighted by the singular colour of the bridges, for a creation both raw and delicate. Emphasizing and sublimating the rings of time by a contrast of colours and materials, the bridges don their summer dress with a colour reminiscent of dune sand.

Une Folle Journée Diamant: Trilobe enters the world of High Jewellery

One year after the launch of its collection Une Folle Journée, Trilobe takes its first step on the High Jewellery scene with a luminous and innovating piece, inspired by the ceiling of the Paris Opera house. The three rotating rings are adorned with exceptional diamonds whose secret setting, invisible to the naked eye, was designed with the expertise of craftsmen from rue de la Paix. This new creation showcases outstanding know-how. Two years of research & development were required to achieve this true prowess at the crossroads of High Watchmaking and High Jewellery.

The X-Centric calibre, automatic movement and hallmark of the brand

Une Folle Journée is equipped with the X-Centric calibre, a signature automatic movement developed exclusively for Trilobe. Mirror of the brand’s identity, this calibre enhances architectural geometry: a contemporary distinction with a pure design. Its harmony brings refinement and modernity to the collection. Integrated into the X-Centric calibre, the 6.49 mm thick micro-rotor movement combines finesse and technical performance.

Technical specificities

Movement

Calibre X-Centric, self-winding integrated mechanical calibre with micro-rotor
48 hours of power reserve
Balance frequency: 28’800 vph (4 Hz) Functional rubies: 33

Total components: 196
Bridges plated with black-gold or gold 5N

Movement dimensions

Thickness: 6.49 mm Diameter: 35.2 mm

Patent

A display concept composed of three devices representing the hours, minutes & seconds

Functions

Hours, minutes, seconds subdial displayed by rotating rings and a fixed pointer Titanium rings colorized through DLC coating (Diamond-Like Carbon) Pad-printed numerals

Strap

Leather with a pin buckle

Case

Grade 5 titanium, platinum or 18-carat rose gold Mirror-polished surfaces alternating with satin-brushed treatments
Domed bezel with sapphire crystal and multi-layered anti-reflective treatment (ARDUR) – 1.2 mm thickness Anti-reflective sapphire back

Push button crown

Water-resistance tested to 5 bar (≈ 50 meters) for the titanium version and 3 bar (≈ 30 meters) for the rose gold version.

Case dimensions

Thickness: 17.8 mm Height: 10.2 mm Diameter: 40.5 mm Lug to lug: 48 mm Lug width: 20 mm

Diamonds

150 baguette diamonds (D,E,F – VVS+): 70 on the hours ring, 50 on the minutes ring, 30 on the seconds ring
(~ 3,1 carats)
Hand-painted numerals

Warranty

24-month from the date of delivery

TAG HEUER FORMULA 1 | KITH

Posted on by
Reply

THE REVIVAL OF THE “CULTURE-DEFINING” WATCH WITH A BRAND NEW COLLAB

Since its original release in 1986, the first series of TAG Heuer’s Formula 1 has been a trailblazer. It was the very first timepiece that bore the TAG Heuer name. The watch’s striking colours and daring design made it a favourite first watch among those who would go on to become diehard collectors, which was precisely the case for Kith founder Ronnie Fieg. Today, the Swiss watchmaker is bringing the piece back with the singular lifestyle brand Kith in new, upgraded materials.

TAG Heuer and Kith are leaders in their respective spaces and have made outsized contributions to culture at large. TAG Heuer is best known for
supplying precision-engineered timing instruments for the most storied motorsports events and racers in history. Whereas Kith has become a fashion stalwart and regarded for its disruptive approach. Today, this duo is embarking on a cutting-edge collaboration to reintroduce the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Series 1 originally released in 1986. The new collection of timepieces features the beloved TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 10 bold colour was inspired by standout models from TAG Heuer’s past. Alongside Kith, TAG Heuer is reintroducing an ‘80s icon built on strong design codes and standout colours, values Fieg is consistently inspired by as a designer.

A Treasured Design

There is something special about the first. That’s especially true when it comes to first love. And for so many collectors all around the world, TAG Heuer’s Series 1 was that first love. It was the timepiece that kicked off a love affair with collecting. That’s the story behind TAG Heuer’s collaboration with Kith, whose founder Ronnie Fieg started with a red-and-black TAG Heuer Formula 1 and has since become an ardent collector of prestigious vintage watches. For many this love started when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 was released in 1986— the very first watch to bear the TAG Heuer name. It was the very first Swiss timepiece for many collectors who were enamoured with its forward-thinking design and electrifying colourways. In recent years, it has become one of the hottest vintage watches in the world, with admirers flocking to secondary sites to recapture a piece that looks just as fashionable today as it did almost 40 years ago.

This TAG Heuer watch was so effective at drawing collectors into the world because it was the very first watch to enable a generation to assert their taste and individuality with a timepiece. The TAG Heuer Formula 1 was the first premium composite quartz watch, drawing collectors deeper into this world with every tick. Just like the original did in 1986, this latest timepiece marks TAG Heuer’s undeniable position as a cultural powerhouse. The new TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith stirs up the nostalgia of this era while updating it for modern times through the colours, partnership, and 35-millimetre size.

“The rebirth of the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 watch is something the collector community has been clamouring after for years. One of these collectors was Kith founder Ronnie Fieg, who shared that, like so many others, this was also his first watch when he was younger. It is one of the most meaningful pieces in TAG Heuer’s history. The first to wear the TAG Heuer name, it introduced a generation of collectors to our commitment to making premium timepieces at the intersection of culture and motorsports,” said Julien Tornare, the CEO of TAG Heuer.

Revitalizing the Cherished Model for 2024

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith maintains what makes the original beloved while bringing it into 2024 and updating it with upgraded materials. First, though, it was critical for these new iterations to keep the original spirit of the watch. The original supplier of case was tracked down along with the very same mold that was used for the pieces made in 1986. That means the identity of the watch is inextricable from the piece collectors fell in love with decades ago.

The new story of the TAG Heuer Formula 1| Kith is told through elegant tweaks to this classic model. While the original watch featured a plastic crystal, this updated model features sapphire. The strap also gets an upgrade from plastic to rubber. Kith’s Fieg contributed to many of the details that reestablish this watch as a fashion powerhouse. TAG Heuer and Kith worked together to select many of the striking and exotic colour combinations.

In a groundbreaking move, for the first time in TAG Heuer’s illustrious history, the luxury Swiss watchmaker is merging its logo with a collaborative partner. TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith features a reworked version of the insignia that combines Kith and Heuer on the dial, rubber strap, and caseback. The dial also includes Kith’s motto “Just Us,” a tribute to Fieg’s familial inner circle.

“It was an honor for me to be able to play a part in bringing TAG Heuer’s Formula 1 Series 1 back to life. The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Series 1 in red and black was my very first watch, the timepiece that helped me express the unique style that’s now manifested itself in Kith,” said Ronnie Fieg, Kith founder.

The Collection

The original Formula 1 was foundational to the success and longevity of TAG Heuer. Over three million pieces were produced, which have been equally admired by men and women over the decades. This new partnership maintains the exquisite variety—without the sheer volume—that made the watch such a fun and trend-setting accessory in the first place.

There are 10 new watches in total, in stainless steel bracelet edition or rubber bracelet edition. Seven watches are exclusive to Kith and each pays tribute to a store in its global network. These watches play with vibrant color: sports-car red; black-and-yellow; green, yellow, and red nods to the rare iteration from the ‘80s made in partnership with Japanese F1 driver Ukyo Katayama; cream; and matte black. These iterations are limited to 250 pieces each. Kith’s exclusive models also feature two with steel bracelets in blue-bezel and one in green. The pair is limited to 350 pieces each.

TAG Heuer boasts two exclusives, limited to 825 pieces each, of its own: each a shot of colour in vibrant blue and green to the bezel and strap with
black PVD case and a black dial. The first edition will launch in-store only in Miami on May 3rd followed by the global launch on May 6th.

A highlight of the collection is the shared model between TAG Heuer and Kith, limited to 1350 pieces. The classic black-bezel watch with its red accents is a lasting and undeniable combination. This model arrives on a steel bracelet with an eggshell dial that is reminiscent to the patinated versions of this model from 1986. The result isan exquisite combination of modern features with vintage aesthetic appeal.

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith remains faithful to the original, drawing elements from the colour combinations to the small details that defined the Series 1. These features include the original form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie that packs a lot of delightful character into the dial.

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith will be presented in a high-end box that evokes their colorful design and drives home the revived watch’s premium status. The most exceptional and desirable presentation of the collection will come in the form of a highly collectible box containing all 10 of the limited-edition watches. With the original TAG Heuer Formula 1, TAG Heuer helped countless collectors fall in love with watches. Now, they are invited to become infatuated with this distinctive, incredibly stylish model all over again.

BIG BANG UNICO ORANGE CERAMIC: A CLOCKWORK ORANGE

Posted on by
Reply

A new ceramic colour is making its appearance at the heart of the Big Bang Unico: a vibrant orange, the result of a unique alchemy and a flawless resistance to shocks and scratches.

If there is something Hublot excels at, it is disruption and unbridled creativity. But, sometimes, it is also known for those little touches that quietly and profoundly change the landscape of watchmaking. Such is the case today, after vivid red and yellow, the Manufacture introduces the first vivid orange ceramic.

Historically, ceramics were first available in unobtrusive colours: black and white. Hublot has gradually changed the game by exploring other shades. The Big Bang has introduced different variations of blue, grey and green. Then, in 2019, it presented a world first when the first brightly coloured ceramic was released: a vibrant red. The second of these achievements came in 2021, with a stunning yellow piece. But the Big Bang collector is not someone who is content with the status quo. Far from it! Hublot has therefore continued to innovate and develop new colours, the very latest of which is this orange.

Developing an original ceramic colour is as simple to say… as it is complex to achieve. The workload should not be underestimated: it requires in-depth research & development. Which additives are needed? In what proportions? What type of firing, at what temperature, and for how long? How can it be machined? Should it have a satin finish? Or polished? How resistant is it to impacts? What about scratches? What pressure? What chemical recipe?

This is just a small part of the specifications that govern the development of a new ceramic. And every single aspect is exacting, as the standards guaranteed by Hublot for its ceramic are among the most stringent on the market. 100% internal expertise, patent-protected.

“Ceramic is part of Hublot history, but it’s a history that is still being written. We’ve never stopped innovating. It’s in our DNA. From our first ceramic bezel in 2005 to the 100% ceramic cases – which we are currently the only company to master in such a wide array of vivid colours. And that’s just the beginning. We’ve got a lot more to come!”  – RICARDO GUADALUPE HUBLOT CEO

 

The new Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic follows in the footsteps of its predecessors. It offers a unique, perfectly uniform colour, whatever exterior component it is used to adorn. It is finished to a very high watchmaking standard, with a perfect mirror polish all over. A blend of high technology and savoir faire were necessary to achieve this level of excellence on all the components, due to their diverse shapes, thicknesses, and angles.

Hublot has recreated the exact colour of the ceramic for the indices, counters on the dial and hands, as well as for the integrated rubber strap. This strap features the patented “One-Click” system for quick, tool-free changes.

This series is limited to 250 pieces. At its heart beats the Unico Chronograph Manufacture calibre. This is the very latest generation of the automatic flyback chronograph movement developed by Hublot. Guaranteeing a three-day power reserve (72 hours), it retains the same aesthetic signature: column wheel at 6 o’clock, bicompax layout (small seconds at 9 o’clock, 60-minute counter at 3 o’clock with integrated date), silicon escapement, and the always demonstrative and powerful skeleton architecture. The Unico sits inside the iconic Big Bang case. This version is 42 mm in diameter and features the famous 6 titanium ‘H’ shaped bezel screws and lugs on either side of the case that echo the design of a ship’s porthole.

HUBLOT

Hublot is a Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1980 and based in Nyon. For its first ever timepiece, this fundamentally disruptive company combined gold with a rubber strap in a case with a design inspired by a ship’s porthole (hublot in French). Thus, the Art of Fusion was born, blending tradition, innovation, craftsmanship, worlds and talents. It became the brand’s aesthetic and technical signature.

This identity was strengthened in 2005 with the Big Bang, which attested to unrivalled expertise in terms of complications,vmanufacture movements and state-of-the-art materials. Carbon, titanium, ceramic and sapphire have been developed on this model to technical extremes.

This ground-breaking, high-quality approach to watchmaking is summed up in its philosophy ‘Be First, Unique and Different.’ It gradually led to other collections with innovative designs: Classic Fusion, Shaped Collection (Spirit of Big Bang, Square Bang) and Manufacture Pieces. These draw on high levels of craftsmanship, both in terms of the materials so dear to Hublot (such as Magic Gold, brightly-coloured ceramics and sapphires) and its manufacture movements (Unico chronograph, Meca-10 and large complications such as the Tourbillon, the Cathedral Minute Repeater and the specific Manufacture Pieces movements).

Hublot’s world extends to powerful partnerships including football. “Hublot Loves Football” has become the slogan at the world’s biggest sporting events (such as the FIFA World CupTM, Premier League, UEFA Champions League, UEFA EUROTM) and through its ambassadors. This love of football continues in art, design, music, sport, fine dining and sailing. Lastly, Hublot’s involvement in joint environmental projects with SORAI and Polar Pod reflects its concern for the issues of the day.

 

Over 130 boutiques around the world share Hublot’s fervour and values, alongside the Hublot.com e-commerce site.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

CASE

REFERENCE

441.CU.5910.RX

SIZE

42 mm

CASE

Polished Orange Ceramic

BEZEL

Polished Orange Ceramic

WATER RESISTANCE

100m or 10 ATM

CRYSTAL

Sapphire with Anti-reflective Treatment 

DIAL

Orange Skelton

MOVEMENT

MOVEMENT

HUB1280 UNICO Manufacture Self-winding Chronograph Flyback Movement with Column Wheel

POWER RESERVE

72 Hours

STRAP & CLASP

STRAP

Black and Orange Structured Lined Rubber Straps

CLASP

Black Ceramic and Black-plated Titanium Deployant Buckle Clasp

DIVING INTO THE EXTREME END: ZENITH UNVEILS THE DEFY EXTREME DIVER ALONGSIDE THE DEFY REVIVAL A3648

Posted on by
Reply

Since its inception in 1969, the ZENITH DEFY line of wristwatches has been all about steadfast reliability and ruggedness. Throughout the years, the DEFY has taken on many iterations with purpose-built features and designs. From the highest peaks to the wildest terrains, ZENITH is now taking the collection back to the deepest depths with the new DEFY Extreme Diver, as well as a remake of one of the most sought-after vintage ZENITH diver’s watches, the DEFY Revival A3648.

With a legacy going as far back as 1969, the DEFY Diver was in fact among the earliest DEFY wristwatch offerings. Keeping the collection’s distinctive design with its signature angular case and dodecagonal bezel, ZENITH incorporated all the necessary elements to create a diver’s watch, including a rotating bezel and bright colour accents for instant readability underwater. With the same ethos of combining form and function for a specific purpose, ZENITH is now unveiling a modern diver’s watch inspired by both historical DEFY diver’s references as well as the modern incarnation of the DEFY line, notably the DEFY Extreme. The result is a feature-packed diver’s watch that is obviously and inherently a ZENITH DEFY, built to withstand the extreme conditions encountered in the harshest environments where ice, mist and deep dark waters require enhanced performance and legibility.

DEFY Extreme Diver

While inspired by a long line of DEFY divers from 1969 onwards, the DEFY Extreme Diver is as modern as they come. Its singular and highly intricate design serve to enhance its depth-defying performance, which was conceived to take on extreme conditions where ice, water and mist present a host of challenges. Its 42.5mm angular case is crafted in titanium, a metal that not only boasts a significant weight-to-strength ratio but is also highly resistant to corrosion from salty seawater. The case is equipped with a helium escape valve for saturation diving. Above the fixed dodecagonal bezel, the ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel features grooved edges for a better grip when operating – even with gloves on. The bezel is engraved and filled with Super-LumiNova and bright colours for effortless reading underwater where light is scarce.

The oversized screw-down crown feature is protected by titanium crown-guards on either side. Just like the historical DEFY A3648 from 1969, the DEFY Extreme Diver is rated to 600 metres (60 ATM) of water-resistance, which happens to be 1’969 feet – a symbolic number for the DEFY diver. It meets the ISO 6425 requirements for professional diver watches, which include ISO 764 for paramagnetism as well as ISO 1413 for shock-resistance, making it a comprehensive diver’s watch suited to the most demanding conditions.

Something of a signature in the contemporary DEFY line, the dial features a geometric pattern of engraved four-pointed stars. Available in black and blue with matching ceramic bezels, the metallic dials feature a sunburst finish, with rays emanating from the applied ZENITH star at 12 o’clock. The date at 3 o’clock is colour-matched to the dial.

Legibility is a key factor in the DEFY Extreme Diver – and it shows. The dial’s oversized hands and applied hour markers feature three different pigments of “X1” grade Super-LumiNova with light emissions in blue, green and orange, making it easy to distinguish between the functions (hours, minutes and seconds). The bright orange accents are a nod to historical DEFY diver models.

The DEFY Extreme Diver is powered by the El Primero 3620-SC automatic high-frequency manufacture calibre with 60 hours power reserve, visible through a sapphire display back – an uncommon feature among diver’s watches. This version of El Primero features a paramagnetic escapement with key components in non-metallic silicon.

Completing the DEFY Extreme Diver is its titanium three-link bracelet as well as two supplied straps. The first additional strap is in FKM rubber, matching the dial colour with a Cordura-effect texture that features vents on the side, allowing water to pass through. In line with ZENITH’s HORIZ-ON initiative to reduce the brand’s environmental impact and produce more sustainably, the DEFY Extreme Diver also comes with an extra-long strap made of recycled fishing nets, intended to be worn over a wetsuit. It features specific end-pieces to pass the single-piece strap through and under the case for a secure fit.

The DEFY Extreme Diver with blue and black dials are available from all ZENITH boutiques and authorized retailers around the world.

DEFY Revival A3648

One of the greatest sources of inspiration when creating the DEFY Extreme Diver was the DEFY reference A3648. Originally launched in 1969, it presented an alternative take on ZENITH’s avant-garde and rugged steel bracelet watch with a specific purpose. The A3648 was not only among the earliest DEFY wristwatch models, but also one of the first DEFY diver’s watches. Even by today’s standards, the A3648 boasted incredible performance in a watch that seamlessly merges style and substance.

In ZENITH’s recent tradition of bringing back its most emblematic past references, the DEFY Revival A3648 represents the first time ever that a vintage ZENITH diver’s watch receives the Revival treatment.

A distinctive signature of the original DEFY line, the DEFY Revival A3648 features a highly angular stainless steel case measuring 37mm in diameter. The steel fourteen-sided bezel present in DEFY models from the same era is still present but positioned above the round
rotating bezel. Crafted in steel, the unidirectional rotating bezel features a sapphire crystal insert instead of Plexiglas as in historical models, with the same black on bright orange markings – one of the historical A3648’s most coveted features.

The black and orange theme extends to the dial, where the matte black surface is contrasted with orange hands and minutes track. The hour markers as well as the hands are filled with white Super-LumiNova that emits a bright and long-lasting green glow.

With its screw-down crown at 4 o’clock and a sapphire display back, the DEFY Revival A3648 retains the same depth rating of 600 metres (60 ATM), a considerable feat to have achieved in 1969 and still an impressive rating for such a compact diver’s watch with a sapphire back. A symbolic number for ZENITH, as 600 metres is equal to 1’969 feet – the year the DEFY wristwatch line including the A3648 was launched. The case back offers a view of Elite 670 automatic manufacture movement, with a power reserve of 50 hours.

And just like the original, the DEFY Revival A3648 comes on a five-link steel bracelet with folding buckle, modelled after the bracelet the famed Gay Frères company had made for the historic reference in 1969. The deployant buckle features an expansion to allow the watch to be worn over a wetsuit without having to add or remove additional links.

The DEFY Revival A3648 is available from all ZENITH physical and online boutiques as well as authorized retailers around the world.

ZENITH: TIME TO REACH YOUR STAR.

ZENITH exists to inspire individuals to pursue their dreams and make them come true – against all odds. Since its establishment in 1865, ZENITH became the first vertically integrated Swiss watch manufacture, and its watches have accompanied extraordinary figures that dreamt big and strived to achieve the impossible – from Louis Blériot’s history-making flight across the English Channel to Felix Baumgartner’s record-setting stratospheric free-fall jump. Zenith is also highlighting visionary and trailblazing women by celebrating their accomplishments and creating the DREAMHERS platform where women share their experiences and inspire others to fulfil their dreams.

With innovation as its guiding star, ZENITH exclusively features in-house developed and manufactured movements in all its watches. Since the creation of the El Primero in 1969, the world’s first automatic chronograph calibre, ZENITH has gone on to master high-frequency precision and offers time measurements in fractions of a second, including 1/10th of a second in the Chronomaster collection and 1/100th of a second in the DEFY collection. Because innovation is synonymous with responsibility, the ZENITH HORIZ-ON initiative affirms the brand’s commitments to inclusion & diversity, sustainability and employee wellbeing. ZENITH has been shaping the future of Swiss watchmaking since 1865, accompanying those who dare to challenge themselves and reach new heights. The time to reach your star is now.

DEFY EXTREME DIVER

Reference: 95.9600.3620/21.I300
Key points: New Diver Model. El Primero 3-hand watch. Stop-second mechanism. Black
ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel filled with SuperLuminova. Starry sky pattern on the dial.
Screwed-in crown. Helium valve.600M Water resistance. Full Interchangeable strap system.
Movement: El Primero 3620 SC
Frequency: 36’000 VpH – 5Hz
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions: Hours & Minutes in the Center. Central second hand. Date at 3 o’clock
Finishes: New star-shaped oscillating weight with satined finishings
Price: 10900 CHF
Case Material: Brushed titanium
Water resistance: 60 ATM
Diameter: 42.5 mm
Thickness: 15.5 mm
Dial: Black-toned sunray-patterned
Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova X1
Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova X1
Crystal: Flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal
Bracelet & Buckle: Full interchangeable strap system. 3 straps included: 1 Black Rubber with folding buckle, 1 Black Fabric strap with pin buckle & 1 Metal bracelet with folding clasp

 

DEFY EXTREME DIVER

Reference: 95.9601.3620/51.I301
Key points: New Diver Model. El Primero 3-hand watch. Stop-second mechanism. Blue
ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel filled with SuperLuminova. Starry sky pattern on the dial.
Screwed-in crown. Helium valve. 600M Water resistance. Full Interchangeable strap system.
Movement: El Primero 3620 SC
Frequency: 36’000 VpH – 5Hz
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions: Hours & Minutes in the Center. Central second hand. Date at 3 o’clock
Finishes: New star-shaped oscillating weight with satined finishings
Price: 10900 CHF
Case Material: Brushed titanium
Water resistance: 60 ATM
Diameter: 42.5 mm
Thickness: 15.5 mm
Dial: Blue-toned sunray-patterned
Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova X1
Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova X1
Crystal: Flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal
Bracelet & Buckle: Full interchangeable strap system. 3 straps included: 1 Blue Rubber with folding buckle, 1 Blue Fabric strap with pin buckle & 1 Metal bracelet with folding clasp.

 

DEFY REVIVAL A3648

Reference: 03.A3648.670/21.M3648
Key points: Original Revival of the 1969 Reference A3648. Octogonal case with iconic 14-sided bezel. Steel
unidirectional rotating bezel with orange tinted sapphire insert. Screwed-in crown. 600M Water resistance.
Movement: Elite 670, Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 VpH (4 Hz)
Power reserve: approx. 50 hours
Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Central second hand. Date indication at 4:30.
Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” motif
Price: 7400 CHF
Case Material: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 60 ATM
Diameter: 37 mm
Thickness: 15.5 mm
Dial: Black & Orange with SLN C1
Hands: Orange painted with SLN C1
Hour markers: White transferred SLN C1
Crystal: Domed sapphire with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal
Bracelet & Buckle: Metal Bracelet with folding clasp

Elka Watch Co. Debuts New Diver’s Watch: ARINIS

Posted on by
Reply

Like treasure raised to the surface, the Arinis is a diver’s watch whose quintessential aesthetic enhances the historic waters of Lake Neuchâtel. A Tool Watch tested by a scientist, ready to conquer the heights of global elegance.

Elka Watch Co’s Arinis is the only timepiece on the market entirely dedicated to a lacustrian universe, Switzerland’s largest lake, Lake of Neuchâtel. Available in four versions, this 200 meter (656-foot) water-resistant watch aspires to see the sea while breathing in the  subaquatic authenticity of one of Switzerland’s finest watchmaking regions: powered by an automatic mechanical caliber from Manufacture Lajoux-Perret in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the new Arinis is a Swiss-made concentrate of coherence and… craftsmanship.

Civilizational depths, Palafittes

Full of depth, this screw-crown diver’s watch with its “chevé box” sapphire crystal is charged with meaning. Starting with its baptismal name, Arinis, which until the 13th century AD was the ancient name of St. Blaise, a nearby region of Neuchâtel. A cradle of civilization bordered by vineyards that, even in the depths of the mysterious, sweet waters of the lake, is populated by Palafittes, vestiges of past times that predate the traces of the Celts who later inhabited the area.

“Seventy Paleolithic sites have been identified on the Neuchâtel coast alone, home to 123 different Neolithic and Bronze Age villages,” explains Hakim El Kadiri, the brand’s custodian, founded in 1877 in Amsterdam from the acronym of a Dutch retailer, Eduard Louis Kiek of Amsterdam. “111 of them have been inscribed on the Unesco World Heritage List since 2011, including 22 in the Three-Lakes region.”

As a devotee of ‘conceptual coherency’, designer Hakim El Kadiri, nicknamed ‘Elka’, has added a hefty dose of depth to his Arinis diver’s watch.

On the wrist of a diving scientist

For over 20 years, Hakim El Kadiri, nicknamed “Elka” (!), has been signing legendary models for other prestigious watch brands. In 2024, he placed the first Arinis prototype, a case inspired by an iconic model, on the wrist of a distinguished diver: the scientist Fabien Langenegger, a researcher involved in archaeological studies at these sites. “For 150 years, this type of archaeological research has provided a reference for the understanding of European prehistory,” adds the man who is reviving Elka Watch Co, a prestigious Swiss historical brand that will celebrate its 150th anniversary in 2027.

And since Perfection lies in the detail, it also appears in the Arinis diver’s watch from Elka Watch Co, mounted on various different straps including the delightful Tropic vulcanized rubber, a local historical nod to the ceramic inserts that line the 120 positions of its unidirectional rotating bezel: once upon a time, always in these civilizational surroundings of the Pays de Neuchâtel, 250 kg of ceramics were found not far from a certain Devil’s Path: one more historical mystery, in the shape of “a stone-paved Roman road leading to Aventicum, the capital of Helvetia.”

Scientist, researcher and diver Fabien Langenegger

He tested the first prototype of Elka Watch Co’s Arinis: “Yes, it dived into the depths of the lake. It’s very luminous and the wristband is very practical and can be attached over a diving suit. But it’s also successful on the surface, in social gatherings…”

Certified waterproofing

A watch engineered to withstand a water depth of at least 200 meters, i.e. an isostatic pressure of 20 bars, is in fact subject to tests that add 25% more pressure. In other words, a watch certified for 200 meters is tested at 25 bars, not 20, and must also resist corrosion by seawater.

Arinis Technical Specifications

Waterproofing
200 meters / 20 bars / 656 feet

Manufacture’ caliber
“Elka” oscillating rotor. La Joux Perret G100 automatic movement
4 Hz / 28,800 vibrations per hour, stop seconds, 68-hour power reserve

2 dial types
Matte black or blue gradient (with or without date)

Hands
Brushed nickel, SuperLuminova-filled

2 SuperLuminova types
Under daylight: white or “old Radium” effect
Luminescence: green

Case
Ø 41 mm Thickness 11.85 mm 46.50 mm from lug to lug
Case material stainless horological steel 1.4404

Decorated screw-down caseback
Screw-down caseback in 1.4404 stainless horological steel
Engraved “fish” pattern, referring to the fascinating artefacts found in the lake

Unidirectional rotating bezel
120 positions.
Ceramic inserts filled with SuperLuminova for easy graduation
Visible numerals on the bezel, reminiscent of an early
iconic Elka Watch Co. model

Crown
Screwed, in stainless horological steel 1.4427

Domed sapphire crystal
‘Chevé’ box-type dome
Scratch-resistant, one-sided anti-reflective coating

Various types of wristbands
“Tropic” vulcanized rubber, black or dark blue 20/18 mm
Rice grain” pattern steel bracelet, 20 mm
Milanese Mesh
Beige or blue Nato type wristband
Genuine leathers wristband

Buckle
Pin-type clasp in 1.4404 horological steel

2 dials, various straps with or without date

Swiss retail price From June 20:

VAT 8.1% included:
Price: on Nato 1895 CHF
Price: on Leather and Rubber 1955 CHF
Price: on Milanese Mesh and Rice Grain 1995 CHF
Prices outside Switzerland From June 20:
(VAT not included)
Price: on Nato 1755 CHF
Price: on Leather and Rubber 1810 CHF
Price: on Milanese Mesh andRice Grain 1845 CHF

Elka Watch Co, Iconic Swiss watches, born in Amsterdam 150 years ago

ELKA watches are part of a tradition, a lineage and a history. That of a brand founded in 1877 in Amsterdam by Eliazer Kiek, inventor of the tactile watch for the blind and watchmaker to Queen Juliana of the Netherlands. In 1949, the ELKA Watch Company opened its Swiss branch in La Chaux-de-Fonds. (It produced wristwatches, of course, but also pocket watches, Braille watches, chronographs, chess and signal clocks). Then, in the mid-1970s, the brand disappeared, along with Ernst Louis Kiek, grandson and last heir.

Hakim El Kadiri aka ‘Elka’

With a foundation in Mechanical Engineering, Hakim El Kadiri has spent the vast majority of his working life working in the product development side of the watch industry. “My work is not a job, it’s a passion, I love what I do, I don’t feel like going to work in the morning, I dream about my work, I live my work, I breathe my work, the part your work takes in your life is huge, if you are lucky enough to be passionate, you’ll never think about working, you’ll just enjoy your life and the balance of life you’ll have!”.

 

PEQUIGNET’S NEW MOVEMENT BRINGING TO LIFE A SPECTACULAR FLYING TOURBILLON

Posted on by
Reply

PEQUIGNET DEFIES GRAVITIONAL LAWS

PEQUIGNET unveils, at a preview showing during Watches and Wonders 2024, its first flying tourbillon, a true extraordinary horological feat. Designed for enthusiasts of French high watchmaking, it will be manufactured in a limited series of 24 pieces.

Invented in the 19th century, the tourbillon aimed to overcome the lack of precision in mechanical movements caused by the vertical position of pocket watches placed in the gentlemen’s jackets.

This horological “grail” goes on captivating enthusiasts, collectors, and watchmakers. While the tourbillon is one of the most beautiful and spectacular complications we could find in renowned Swiss watchmaking names, it is extremely rare within French brands.

For the first time in its history, PEQUIGNET once again asserts its French specificity by introducing a tourbillon designed in its own Manufacture. All its components are manufactured within an 80-kilometer radius and assembled in its workshops in Morteau.

THE ULTIMATE HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATION

The launch of a tourbillon is a milestone in the development of a Manufacture. This significant step legitimizes and confirms the reputation of a Maison. With the Royale Tourbillon, PEQUIGNET joins the elite watchmakers.

This model is equipped with the fourth PEQUIGNET “in-house movement”. Its code name EPM04. Based on the prestigious Calibre Royal®’s construction, the name Calibre Royal® Tourbillon logically appeared. This rarity will only be produced in 24 pieces to celebrate its birth year: 2024. PEQUIGNET imagined a tourbillon in its most refined, sophisticated, and horological version: a flying tourbillon!

The flying tourbillon is a complex regulating mechanism. Traditionally placed at 6 o’clock, the flying tourbillon is special as it is mounted without any upper bridge, giving the impression of wearing a weightless tourbillon cage on the wrist, visually unobstructed. A nearly hypnotic wonder to observe. For this horological marvel, this 1-minute tourbillon (rotating in sixty seconds) features a concentric balance wheel in the cage. The cage itself is made of titanium, a particularly delicate metal to machine, especially for such a small component.

Another technical and aesthetic achievement, this flying tourbillon is visible not only on the dial side but also on the bridge side!Developed on the designing of the Calibre Royal® and beating at 3Hz, it retains its main characteristics, including its extraordinary power reserve of at least 88 hours, possible thanks to its large barrel. A power reserve that comfortably exceeds the “weekend-proof” standards required by connoisseurs nowadays.

A WATCHMAKING MASTERPIECE

Naturally, this high horology movement on display is hand-decorated in accordance with the highest professional norms. The discerning eye will notice high-flying finishes: beveling, Côtes de Genève, circular graining, circling, sandblasting, and drawing. An outstanding work!

This exceptional watch features a 44 mm diameter 5N rose gold case with a thickness of 11.70 mm. It has a water resistance of 5 ATM. This flying tourbillon watch boasts a stunning midnight blue «wave» effect dial inspiring serenity, almost zen, that seems to emanate from the tourbillon situated at 6 o’clock and spreading upwards where the PEQUIGNET logo modestly takes pride of place at 12 o’clock with no other indication.

The polished indices appliques are rose gold 5N tinted, just like the faceted baton hour and minute hands using any available light source for a perfect readability of this very pure dial, in any circumstance.

This exceptional “made in France” Royale Tourbillon watch is mounted on a sumptuous blue alligator strap that complements its dial. It is combined with a tongue buckle made of the same metal as the case. For a rare watch, a specific box: made of lacquered wood and specially designed for this first PEQUIGNET Tourbillon, echoing the midnight blue and wave shape of the dial.

THE ART AND SCIENCE OF TIME

Pequignet embodies a French vision of time: the time we dare to dedicate to ourselves, the time we draw away from. Pequignet is designed for independent spirits, those who seek to assert their freedom, emancipate themselves from conventions, and stand out without showing off. Pequignet aims to offer an uninhibited Haute Horlogerie experience in its own distinctive way.

PEQUIGNET, FRENCH WATCHMAKING EXCELLENCE

As a French high-end watchmaking manufacture, Pequignet holds the label of “Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant” (Living Heritage Company). The conception and production of its watches and movements take place in its workshops located in Morteau, at the heart of the French Jura. Founded in 1973 by Émile Péquignet, this watchmaking house has always created timepieces that break free from conventional codes and norms. Pequignet stands out as one of the few independent watchmaking houses.

In 2010, Pequignet evolved into a manufacture, welcoming highly skilled watch engineers. The Manufacture designs exceptional calibres, incorporating the latest technologies that bring life to its innovative and elegant watch creations. In 2011, Pequignet won fame by creating its own movement: the Calibre Royal®, the sole high-end French movement. It is designed and assembled by the Pequignet Manufacture. A manual version of the Calibre Royal® was introduced in 2018, followed by a third movement, the Calibre Initial®, in 2021.

In 2021, Pequignet joined Enowe Excellence, an organization founded by Hugues Souparis, a former industrialist and entrepreneur committed to supporting French excellence in craftsmanship. He became the president of the Manufacture.

ROYALE TOURBILLON 9035475 AB

CASE

Diameter: 44 mm
5N Rose Gold 18K
Weight of gold: 54.94 g
Polish finishing of the case with domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Crown with embossed « Fleur-de-Lys » logo

DIAL

Textured blue, drop of water
Rose (5N) gold plated stamped hands
5N colour index
Tourbillon position at 6.00 Diamond-coatedtourbillonopening,5Ncolour

MOVEMENT®
Calibre Royal Tourbillon
Diameter: 34.5 mm / Thickness: 6.11 mm 88-hour power reserve
23 jewels
Flying tourbillon, with balance concentric to the cage, visible from the dial and from the movement

Titanium cage, 157 pieces, 1 revolution per minute Balance with solid gold compensating screws, frequency of 21,600 alt/hour (3Hz), large balance with important inertia: 12mg/cm2 Hand decoration: Bevelling, Côtes de Genève, Circular graining, Circling, Sandblasting, Drawing

WATER RESISTANCE: 5 ATM

THICKNESS: 11.70 mm

LUG-WIDTH: 22 mm

CASEBACK: Secured by 6 screws, sapphire opening on the movement

STRAP: Blue alligator strap with tone-on-tone stitching

CLASP: Polished gold ardillon buckle (5N, 18K) with Fleur-de-Lys logo
Weight of gold: 7.6 g

EUROPE RETAIL PRICE INCL. TAX: 65000€

AVAILABLE ON

September 2024

Limited edition of 24 pieces

Availability

  • PEQUIGNET Boutique Paris60 rue de Rennes, 75006 Paris – France
  • PEQUIGNET Boutique Besançon3 rue Moncey, 25000 Besançon – France
  • Online shop:  www.pequignet.com

Frederique Constant’s Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture

Posted on by
Reply

Frederique Constant’s flagship Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture is restrained, elegant and contemporary, staying true to its traditional DNA even as the collection expands to include three new 40-millimetre variations endowed with the new Classic steel case, accompanied by a silver, blue or green dial. Designed for everyday wear – and for all lovers of Geneva’s watchmaking heritage – the timepiece features a new, uncluttered sunburst dial, sporting delicate hands powered by a new FC-716 movement. Developed in-house, the latter boasts a 72-hour power reserve. The Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture is so reliable that its performance is now guaranteed for five years. This rare, refined, sophisticated and accurate piece is highly reliable, based on a 4hz movement originally developed by Frederique Constant almost ten years ago now.

All watches have both a heart and a spirit; the art is to translate both into a single, coherent style language, an in-depth undertaking to which Frederique Constant has been tirelessly committed for over 35 years now. At the heart of its approach lies the timeless beauty of perfectly finished Swiss Made timepieces, made available at fair prices – and the new Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture is no exception to the rule.

The three new models come with both a style makeover and more significantly, new technical features made possible by the new FC-716 Manufacture calibre. This has been fitted with a brand-new barrel providing a three-day power reserve – 72 hours in all. The high-precision movement beats at a rate of 4Hz. This carefully thought-out decision by the Maison means the watch is better able to withstand day-to-day challenges, returning swiftly to regular oscillations after any disturbance. The FC-716 calibre is itself derived from a technical base that has been used to power the Manufacture’s collections since 2015, the FC-715, and uses over 90% of the same components, making it exceptionally well tried and tested – and highly reliable.

The watch sports new decorations, including a fan-shaped Cotes de Genève finish that replaces the previous circular motif. The finishings can be admired through the see-through caseback of the piece, which is water resistant to 50 metres. Another new feature is that this trio of Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture watches all come with a five-year warranty.

 

The heavens on your wrist

It’s been said that ‘watchmaking is the daughter of astronomy’, and these three pieces, all housed in a 40-millimetre case, are perfect illustrations of that assertion: both those foundations of horology are evident on their minimalistic dials. The watchmaking aspect is embodied by the three redesigned steel-coloured central hands; the hours and minutes hands are now diamond-cut, as are the hour markers. The hand-polished hands glide above a fine sunburst dial, available in three different colours reflecting three quite different personalities: bright, radiant silver grey; deep, contemporary midnight blue; and a bold and unusual British racing green. The pieces feature a ‘railtrack’ minute circle and an onion-shaped crown at three o’clock. The first two come on an alligator strap with navy blue overstitching, while the third has a green alligator strap to match the dial.

As to astronomy, a single window at six o’clock brings together two complications in one display, the moonphase and the date. The two are closely interrelated: the moon completes one cycle of phases across its star-studded background in precisely 29.5 days. The date is indicated by a central hand that travels around a peripheral scale graduated from 1 to 31. Amid this starry firmament, the shorter time marked out for each passing day and the longer moon phases thus dwell side by side in sweet and poetic astral harmony. 

 

ABOUT FREDERIQUE CONSTANT

 LIVE YOUR PASSION!

Founded in 1988, Frederique Constant is a Swiss watchmaking manufacture based in Geneva. Having celebrated its 35th anniversary in 2023, the brand continues to showcase its ever-advancing watchmaking expertise as it pursues its aim: providing Swiss Made luxury watches at accessible prices. Through the decades, Frederique Constant has been characterised by creativity and inventiveness – and even more so by mechanical ingenuity and pragmatism.

Born out of the shared passion of an independent entrepreneurial couple, Aletta and Peter Stas, Frederique Constant has written its own rules, blazing a trail into territory where none had dared venture before. Today the brand proudly offers a range of quartz and mechanical models – and most importantly, a collection of 33 calibres designed, developed and assembled in its own Manufacture at Plan-les-Ouates, Geneva. These movements include Tourbillon, Perpetual Calendar, Flyback Chronograph, Worldtimer, Power Reserve and Big Date complications as well as the Monolithic escapement, made out of a single piece of silicon and beating at a rate of 40Hz.

Frederique Constant presently has close to 3,000 points of sale in 120 countries. To pursue its international expansion and develop new synergies, the Frederique Constant Group (Frederique Constant, Alpina Watches, Ateliers deMonaco) was acquired by the Japanese group Citizen since 2016.

 www.frederique-constant.com

The Chronomètre FB Res: A customisable version of the Remontoire revealing its intricacies

Posted on by
Reply

THE CHRONOMÈTRE FB RES: A CUSTOMISABLE VERSION OF THE REMONTOIRE REVEALING ITS INTRICACIES

Four years ago, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud unveiled the Chronomètre FB 2RE. This collection featuring numerous innovative aspects introduced the Maison’s second movement, equipped with fusee-and-chain transmission and a one-second remontoire device. This calibre, which has won awards for its precision timekeeping performance, now reveals more of how it operates through the customisable bridges and mainplate of the new Chronomètre FB RES.

In 2020, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud unveiled its second collection, the Chronomètre FB 2RE. This timepiece marked a real turning point for the Maison: the first round case, the first display with three central hands; and above all the first movement with a double regulation system combining fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second “remontoir d’égalité”.
This movement is now offered with a completely revisited design intended to highlight its sophisticated inner workings. Formerly in domed Grand Feu enamel, the dial now features a technical combination of bridges and mainplate as well as a wide opening stretching from 3 o’clock to 6 o’clock. The latter reveals a construction with three bridges converging towards the dial centre. This geometry is directly inspired by a skeletonised table clock made by Ferdinand Berthoud circa 1775. The similarity does not end there, as that clock displaying the hours, minutes, seconds, age of the Moon, calendar and zodiac signs was also equipped with a “remontoir d’égalité”. This timepiece in perfect working order is part of the Maison’s heritage and is currently housed in the Ferdinand Berthoud Museum in Fleurier.

Two linear metres of hand chamfering

Exposing the movement components of the Chronomètre FB RES opens up unprecedented aesthetic perspectives, while simultaneously revealing a particularly meticulous finishing process.

Each wheel, bridge and screw is entirely hand-decorated. An extraordinary level of manual finishing has been applied in order to reveal the beauty of each component. Placed end to end, all the angles of the wheels and their bridges, as well as those revealed at the heart of the 9 o’clock power-reserve display, represent more than two linear metres filed and polished by hand. The finishing of the bridges and mainplate is specific to this new model named FB RES – standing in French for “Remontoir d’Égalité Squelette”.
38 personalised calibres

Thirty-eight movements will be produced in total. They will be open to customisation in a wide range of options. The shape (round or octagonal) and material (stainless-steel, titanium, ceramised titanium and 18-carat white, yellow, or rose gold) of the case, the colour of the inner bezel ring, the dial and the associated finishes (sandblasted or satin-brushed): in all, more than 200 variations can be simulated on an online configurator specifically created for this model. Collectors will thus be able to bring to life variations that are unprecedented for Ferdinand Berthoud, notably including a calibre with a remontoire device in an octagonal case.

Peak precision

At the heart of this timepiece beats the Calibre FB-RES.FC, regulated by fusee-and-chain transmission and a one-second remontoire. The purpose of this full-fledged chronometric complication is to even out the energy coming from the barrel and transmitted to the escapement. The device relies on a spring positioned between the two organs. It temporarily stores a small amount of energy, which is then delivered to the balance. The charge/discharge frequency of this buffer energy is very short: one second. It is this sequential impulse that the large central seconds hand beats off, connected to the “remontoir d’égalité” via an intermediate wheel. It therefore advances in one-second jumps: this is a true-beat mechanism also known as a deadbeat second and generated directly by the remontoire. All these mechanical intricacies are almost entirely visible through the back of the FB RES.

“We are fortunate to have in our Fleurier Museum this clock made in 1775 by Ferdinand Berthoud, which reveals its movement, including a “remontoir d’égalité””, says Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. “Imagining a modern interpretation of this exceptional work seemed a quite logical step. This gave rise to the idea behind the FB RES collection: a skeletonised, more technical version of our own Calibre FB-RE.FC with a one-second remontoire mechanism.”

The Chronomètre FB RES also perpetuates the Maison’s desire to offer collectors the possibility of personalising their timepieces through a wide range of options offered by this new configurator, directly accessible online on the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud website.

ABOUT THE INSPIRATION

Skeletonised table clock, Ferdinand Berthoud, circa 1775
Four ring-shaped white enamelled dials for the hours (I-XII), minutes (60), seconds (60) and calendar (31); months (12) with zodiac signs; days of the week (7) and age of the moon (29 ½).
One main gear train and two strikework trains (hours and quarters). By means of a “remontoir d’égalité”, the main gear train supplies constant energy to the pin-pallet escapement.
The quarters strikework train (left) strikes the quarters on two bells. The hours strikework train (right) is activated after striking the quarters. It also activates the calendar.
“Ferdinand Berthoud” signature on the gilded plaque adorning the marble base:
Dimensions: 25 x 15 x 43 cm

CASE

Shape Round case fitted with one glare-proofed sapphire crystal porthole at 10 o’clock Octagonal case fitted with two glare-proofed sapphire crystal portholes at 2 and 11 o’clock
Total diameter 44 mm 44 mm
Thickness 14.30 mm 14.26 mm
Water resistance 30 metres 30 metres
Crown diameter 9 mm 9 mm
Possible materials 18-carat rose gold, 18-carat yellow gold, 18-carat white gold, platinum, stainless steel, titanium and ceramised titanium 18-carat rose gold, 18-carat yellow gold, 18-carat white gold, stainless steel, titanium and ceramised titanium, (platinum not available)

• Dynamometric crown (decoupling system)
• Case-back fitted with a “chevee” sapphire crystal pane glare-proofed on both sides.
• Domed “chevee” sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides

DIAL

• Openworked nickel silver decorative plate topping the mainplate (dial):
Possible finishes: vertical satin-brushed or sandblasted
Possible colours: champagne-toned, anthracite or blue
• Circular satin-brushed seconds inner bezel ring surrounding the dial
Possible colours: champagne-toned, anthracite or silver-toned
• Mirror-polished stainless-steel gear-train bridges between 3 and 6 o’clock
• Power-reserve indication with “0_1” engraving on a 9 o’clock bridge visible on the dial side

HANDS

• Dagger-shaped hours and minutes hands in 18-carat gold
• Central sweep-seconds hand in brass
• Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in 18-carat gold

STRAP AND BUCKLE

• Hand-sewn leather strap (125 x 70 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
• Length-adjustable double-blade folding clasp – Pin buckle available on request

FUNCTIONS

• Hours and minutes, deadbeat seconds, power reserve, time-setting with stop-seconds device on the balance

MOVEMENT

• Calibre FB-RES.FC: mechanical manual-winding movement, constant force with fusee-and-chain transmission and one-second remontoire
Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37.30 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.37 mm
Lignes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 ½
Jewels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58
Frequency . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 hours

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

• Constant force with fusee-and-chain transmission
Inverted and suspended fusee – differential winding system (PATENT)
Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system
• Regulating organ
Two-arm variable-inertia Ferdinand Berthoud balance wheel fitted with 4 integrated adjustment screws
Balance-spring with hand-crafted Phillips outer terminal curve (steel alloy)
Swiss lever escapement
15-toothed escape-wheel
• “Remontoir d’égalité” mechanism
One-second winding
Three-toothed stop wheel
Triple-sided cam in hand-crafted synthetic ruby
Flat spiral spring (steel alloy)

Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1200 (including the chain)
Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 790 components
Chain length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 mm
Bridges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Pillars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

DECORATIONS

• Nickel silver bridges fitted on stylised stainless-steel pillars, decorated according to dial design
• Hand-finishing according to the highest watchmaking standards

Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

HUBLOT Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu: Tattoo-etched sapphire

Posted on by
Reply

Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu. A high-tech creation incised into the transparency of sapphire.

Tattoo-etched sapphire, new boundaries pushed back.

After 8 years of collaboration between Hublot and Maxime Plescia-Buchi, we finally have a creation in sapphire. The three-dimensional geometry and the indelible features of Sang Bleu have been inked into Hublot’s high-tech material of choice. A geometric watch to be tattooed on your wrist, combining intensity and softness, strength and subtlety. Hublot has once again demonstrated its ability to combine craftsmanship and technology with this hyper-complex timepiece.

Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu

Since 2016, the Hublot x Sang Bleu collaboration has seen the celebrated typographer, tattooist, artist, and founder of Sang Bleu, Maxime Plescia-Buchi, set down his indelible and distinct features, and stamp his three-dimensional geometry with both relief and depth onto Hublot watches. From the Big Bang in 2016 to Spirit of Big Bang in 2023, 2024 is once again making its mark.

Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire – A play on similarities and differences.

It has kept the Spirit of Big Bang, maintaining the 42 mm diameter and the soul of the barrel shape, while offering a different aesthetic finish. It is a watch that, even with its ultra-generous proportions and assertive shape, offers perfect ergonomics to suit all wrist sizes, both feminine and masculine. There’s no change onthe movement side, with the HUB4700, a skeletonised automatic chronograph with date at 4.30, 50-hour power reserve and its oscillating weight redesigned in the Sang Bleu style. The inspired design remains the same, a watch incised, chiselled, angled and faceted by Sang Bleu, revealing and overlaying hexagons, rhombuses and triangles redrawing forms and volumes, feature by feature. The playful relief and depth in Maxime’s features takes on a new dimension, as the sapphire reveals an entirely new personality.

 

Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu Sapphire – A contrasting softness of features incised into the hardness of the sapphire

The sapphire now extends from the dial – which already revealed the HUB4700 self-winding skeleton chronograph movement through the disc hands designed by Sang Bleu – to the case and the bezel, enhancing the watch’s organic design. The complexity of the design of the collection, plus the demanding geometry of Maxim Plescia-Buchi’s polygonal tattooing, meant that Hublot once again had to push back the boundaries of machining sapphire. Under the impact of the sapphire’s transparency, the purity of the Sang Bleu features, which remain sharp and methodical, expresses itself here in an ultra-light minimalist style, both visually and on the wrist. A fascinating and highly demanding material, whose total transparency required an absolutely perfect level of finish.

Thanks to 3D machining and over 100 hours of work, the Spirit of Big Bang Sapphire Sang Bleu is practically as hard and scratch resistant as a diamond (9 on the Mohs scale, compared to 10 for diamonds). The only remaining non-transparent elements are the crown, the push buttons, the screws on the case, the 6 H-shaped screws on the bezel, and the folding clasp, all cut out of titanium, and the components of the movement.

Produced in a run of 100 pieces; making this a collector’s edition!

“Beneath Maxime’s spatially redesigned features, it is like we achieve this duality every time, whereby the watch’s DNA is simultaneously identical and yet so very different. While the sapphire gives Maxim’s three-dimensional tattoos a new geometric aesthetic, it has also provided us with the opportunity to reconsider their technical production, to take on new challenges, to optimize our processes, and to overcome new constraints. Each model drives us to improve ourselves in a quest for both technical and aesthetic excellence. To machine sapphire into the demanding geometry of Sang Bleu’s polygonal tattooing meant that we once again had to push back our boundaries in the mastery of this iconic material. There is no longer any doubt that Hublot is the leader in making sapphire timepieces!”  – RICARDO GUADALUPE, HUBLOT CEO

“2024 marks eight years of collaboration with Hublot, and three iterations: the first in 2016 with the Big Bang Sang Bleu; the second in 2019 with the Big Bang Sang Bleu II; and finally the Spirit of Big Bang in 2023. While every design is produced using a similar approach, transposing the principles of my tattooing across to Hublot’s specific watchmaking space, the result is different every time, as it is applied to a different base. In 2016, it was the Big Bang 3 Hands, in 2019, the Big Bang Chronograph and in 2023 the Spirit of Big Bang Chronograph. This time, in addition, we are transposing what the DNA itself has become, the fusion of Hublot and Sang Bleu, onto a Hublot signature material never before applied to our collaboration: sapphire. This is a highlight for this collaboration because sapphire is, in itself, the most noble material used in the watchmaking industry, while it simultaneously bestows something ghost-like and
futuristic, virtually architectural, onto the pieces. This corresponds exactly to what I seek to produce in all my projects.”  -MAXIME PLESCIA- BUCHI, FOUNDER OF SANG BLEU, HUBLOT AMBASSADOR

SPIRIT OF BIG BANG SANG BLEU SAPPHIRE

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REFERENCE: 648.JX.0102.RT.MXM24

SIZE: 42 mm

CASE: Polished Sapphire Crystal

BEZEL: Polished Sapphire Crystal

WATER RESISTANCE: 50m or 5 ATM

CRYSTAL: Sapphire with Anti-reflective Treatment

DIAL: Sapphire Crystal Dial

MOVEMENT: HUB4700 Self-winding Skeleton Chronograph Movement

POWER RESERVE: 50 Hours

STRAP: White Transparent Smooth Rubber Straps

CLASP: Titanium Deployant Buckle Clasp

The Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet: SPEAKE MARIN

Posted on by
Reply

The new “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” features a vibrant hue inspired by the lights of a futuristic city.

ONE & TWO OPENWORKED COLLECTION

The undisputed identity signature of the ONE & TWO OPENWORKED collection is the original dial, decorated with ever-changing finishes and details, which enhance the excellence and charm of the horological art. Each creation boasts an appealing three dimensional display that endows it with a modern style. The sophisticated openworked structure, evoking the imaginary architecture of elevated intersections in a futuristic city, gives the multi-layered dial an even more dynamic look. In addition, the unique geometry and arrangement of the bridges create fascinating and unique aesthetic effects. Each timepiece in the ONE & TWO OPENWORKED collection allows the wearer to dive into its powerful “engine” without taking it off the wrist.

All this beauty is encased in the classic round “Piccadilly” case, a reminder of the brand’s British origins.

Revamped in 2017 by renowned designer Eric Giroud, it now features a smoother and more sinuous
shape than the original.

All ONE & TWO OPENWORKED collections are available in 38- and 42-mm case sizes.

The Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet: inspiration

The focus of the new “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet”, both from a structural and conceptual point of view, is the Tourbillon complication, whose cage containing the regulating organ and rotating on its own axis is able to offset the negative effects of the earth’s gravity by optimising timekeeping precision. This device, patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, is a little like allowing the watch
to escape from the earth’s gravitational field, placing it almost outside the atmosphere and the orbit ofour planet, in the sidereal space.

The “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” invites the imagination to enter a metaverse city of futuristic architecture illuminated by rays of light and fluorescent colours. Among the vibrant, bright tones, the choice of ultra-violet makes the dial’s grid of this latest creation stand out. This specific, mysterious and fascinating shade surrounds and highlights the main components of the movement, such as the flying tourbillon, the off-centre micro-rotor, the power reserve indicator and the barrel, which stand out against the rhodium-plated and microbeaded black plate. It abstracts this horological masterpiece from the ordinary and elevates it to the universe of heavenly bodies.

A UNIQUE AND FUTURISTIC STYLE

The case

The Piccadilly case of the “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” is crafted from grade 5 titanium. Its flat, horizontally brushed case band, recessed in relation to the polished, domed bezel and case back, gives it a sober, modern aesthetics that is immediately reminiscent of Speake Marin. The flared, grooved crown and the geometric lugs, which hold the strap attachment bars, secured by two screws, complete the harmonious appearance.

Water-resistant to 3 ATM, it is fitted with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal protecting the dial and the see-through case back revealing the bienfacture of the exquisite calibre that powers this creation. Available in 38 mm and 42 mm cases, the timepiece is complemented by a black rubber strap fastened to the wrist with a titanium pin buckle.

 

A dynamic and striking 3D watch face

Beneath the anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the performance of the movement is at work. As in a prestigious theatre production, where the scenography is meticulously planned, the display becomes the stage on which the main actors play their roles.

The satin-brushed and rhodium-plated dial is multilayered, with carved microbeaded pockets which create a refined grid, with microbeaded profiles angled at 45° in a vibrant ultra-violet hue obtained through positive PDV coating.

The skilful mix of finishes, combined with the choice of a bright colour such as Ultra-Violet, allows for extraordinary light effects that emphasise the SMA05 manufacture calibre. The most striking feature at first glance is the tourbillon cage, which is characterised by the emblematic motif of the mirror-polished topping tool, the symbol of the Geneva-based Maison. This is followed by other visually intriguing components such as the rhodium-plated barrel drum, symmetrical to the complication, embellished with concentric circles and engraved “One & Two Openworked – Flying Tourbillon”. Mirrored are the oscillating weight and power reserve, whose luminescent arrow indicates the elapsed power reserve when it reaches the red dot on the semi-arc. The flange is finished in a circular pattern and has a minute track with light grey markers. These are highlighted at 5-minute intervals by Super-LumiNova emitting blue glow. The heart-shaped hands are also luminescent and clearly visible in all lighting conditions. The rhodium-plated, microbeaded bridges on the barrel and micro-rotor, with their chamfered edges, add further depth to the display.

The end result defines this dial as a true work of art in which creative talent and technical mastery come together to express Speake Marin’s bold and passionate vision of haute horlogerie, where innovation meets savoir-faire.

The uniqueness of the mechanical movement signed by Speake Marin

The SMA05 calibre powering the “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet”, is part of the collection of mechanical movements developed in-house by Le Cercle Des Horlogers, the Manufacture of Speake Marin. With an automatic winding, it operates at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and offers a 72-hour power reserve from a single barrel. It is distinguished by its tourbillon mechanism at
1.30 o’clock: an unusual position that stands out as unique in the watchmaking panorama due to the difficulties of avoiding the time-setting module and now a distinctive and recognised feature of the Maison.

It is a flying tourbillon, fixed at only one point, which requires an extremely precise construction to guarantee the perfect balance of the entire device. A construction that allows the non-stop dance of the regulating organ on the dial side to be admired to the full, and also enhances its motion: the tourbillon appears to float in mid-air and performs a complete rotation on its own axis in one minute.

If the tourbillon is an eye-catcher, it is also thanks to its harmonious and well-balanced layout, in which another iconic element of Speake Marin’s mechanical art plays a starring role: the off-centre micro-rotor, perfectly integrated into the volume of the calibre. Crafted from rhodium-plated tungsten, it is positioned symmetrically in relation to the power reserve.

On the rear, the bevelled black rhodium-plated bridges, with their 1.5 mm Côtes de Genève finish, embrace the PVD-coated central bridge, which shows the fascinating motion of the movements’ gears.

Since its first launch in 2020, the Openworked Tourbillon has seen several versions, always produced in limited quantities and immediately becoming the object of desire of the most demanding collectors. The emphasis on the Ultra-Violet shade which highlights this superlative movement, endows this unprecedented interpretation of the Manufacture’s tourbillon with a new personality.

The “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” is a limited production of only 5 pieces with a 42 mm case and an additional 4 pieces measuring 38 mm in diameter.

Availability as of 9 April 2024

Suggested retail price: CHF 79 500 (38mm), CHF 79 900 (42mm) excluding taxes

ABOUT SPEAKE MARIN

Speake Marin, Geneva-based independent brand, was founded in 2002 by an English watchmaker and was immediately received with enthusiasm by watch aficionados and collectors. In 2012, the company was acquired by Mme Christelle Rosnoblet, a French entrepreneur with a passion for art and watchmaking, who is now its CEO and President.

The entry of Mme Rosnoblet injects new energy into Speake Marin. Two pillars mark the Maison’s present and future: the in-house manufacture of its calibres and the stylistic renewal according to contemporary trends, without forgetting the main distinctive codes that have been identifying the brand since its establishment.

In 2014, Mme Rosnoblet invested in the prestigious watchmaking atelier ‘Le Cercle des Horlogers’ in La Chaux-de-Fonds, which is Speake Marin’s internal workshop. Later on, Mme Rosnoblet becomes the majority shareholder. It is here that the Maison’s timepieces are designed, produced, tested, decorated and assembled. Thanks to its independence, Speake Marin enjoys the utmost creative freedom which, combined with the expertise of highly qualified master watchmakers, allows it to create unique and inimitable watches featuring a bold and daring design.

To date, Speake Marin has developed 11 in-house calibres and has a production of around 600 timepieces per year.

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet
Ref. 424211040 – 42mm
Ref. 423811040 – 38 mm

Movement

In-house manufacture self-winding movement, calibre SMA05, with fully integrated micro-rotor,
60-second flying tourbillon
Total components : 290
Tourbillon cage : 62 components (mobile) + 1 fixed component, 0,56gr
Casing diameter: 34 mm
Thickness: 7.15 mm (without hands)
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21.600 vibrations per hour
Jewels: 33
Screw balance-wheel
Swiss lever escapement
Power reserve: 72-hour (when fully wound)
Black rhodium-plated and microbeaded mainplate
Bridges: black rhodium-plated with bevelled edges, Côtes de Genève with 1.5mm stripes, central openworked bridge with black PVD coating, 5N gold-plated engraving Tungsten micro-rotor with laser-engraved concentric circle pattern

Functions

Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon cage at 1:30, power reserve at 7:30

Case

“Piccadilly” design, grade 5 polished-brushed titanium
Diameter: 38 mm and 42 mm
Thickness: 12.35 mm
Grooved flared crown with engraved logo
Screw-down case back
Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on dial and case back
Water-resistance: 3 ATM

Dial

Multilayer satin-finished and rhodium-plated dial, grid with positive ultra-violet PVD coating, microbeaded bevelled edges, rhodium-plated microbeaded pockets
Luminescent rhodium-plated heart-shaped hands with blue glow
Minutes flange with light grey Super-LumiNova indices with blue lighting at 5-minutes intervals
Tourbillon cage at 1:30: with topping tool-shaped bridge, rhodium-plated, mirror-polished, with bevelled profiles
Engraved barrel with the inscription “One & Two Openworked – Flying Tourbillon” at 10:00
Satin finish oscillating weight with laser-engraved circles
Power reserve at 7:30, triangular pointer with Super-LumiNova emitting blue glow, light grey and bright red dots for elapsed autonomy indication.

Strap

Black rubber strap with grade 5 titanium pin buckle embellished the Maison’s logo.

Limited production

38 mm case: 4 pieces / 42 mm case: 5 pieces

STELLAR ALIGNMENT: ZENITH INTRODUCES THE LONG-AWAITED DEFY SKYLINE CHRONOGRAPH

Posted on by
Reply

The DEFY Skyline constellation is finally complete. A natural continuation and expansion of ZENITH’s edgy, all-occasions line, the new DEFY Skyline Chronograph offers a new vessel for the Manufacture’s latest iteration of the El Primero automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre, endowed with a 1/10th of a second chronograph function.

Looking back at the legacy of the DEFY collection of wristwatches, there’s a long and enduring tradition of El Primero chronographs within the line from as far back as the early 1970s. A modernistic vessel for a groundbreaking calibre, the DEFY has always been perfectly suited for the El Primero automatic chronograph, whose high-frequency rate allows it to provide unwavering precision – even in highly animated and dynamic situations. With the same penchant for movement and performance in a wide range of settings, the new DEFY Skyline Chronograph is the culmination of over 50 years in elevating the chronograph to new heights.
In essence, it is the DEFY chronograph of the 21st century – and it shows.

Architectural, geometric and intricately faceted, the DEFY Skyline’s 42mm steel case is a modernized take on the earliest DEFY’s octagonal case with a multi-sided bezel. Retaining the same DNA of robustness and durability as its predecessors while bringing an edgier and more contemporary aesthetic and proportions. In the DEFY Skyline Chronograph, the pushers follow the sharply drawn lines of the case, while the screw-down crown emblazoned with the star emblem helps ensure a water-resistance of 100 metres (10ATM).

Available in metallic black, blue or silver, the DEFY Skyline Chronograph’s dial pairs the collection’s signature starry sky-patterned dial featuring engraved four-pointed stars with the traditional El Primero dial configuration. Three slightly oversized and overlapping counters show the elapsed seconds and minutes of the chronograph, as well as the constant running seconds. The date window – matching the colour of the dial – is positioned at 4:30, another El Primero signature. The flange ring with the 1/10th of a second scale has twelve facets, the form of the dodecagonal bezel and serving as extensions of the hour markers.

In an ever-faster moving world, every fraction of a second counts. Just like in the DEFY Skyline automatic model and its skeleton counterpart, ZENITH continues to offer the 1/10th of a second function found, now in the form of a 1/10th of a second chronograph in the DEFY Skyline Chronograph. This mechanical feat is the result of the El Primero 3600 calibre’s high-frequency rate of 5Hz (36’000 vibrations per hour), visible through the display back. Its open star-shaped oscillating weight with bidirectional winding efficiently provides a power reserve of 60 hours.

One of the highlights of the DEFY Skyline is its integrated quick strap-change mechanism integrated directly into the case, allowing for effortless versatility without requiring any tools. With the simple push of a button, the three-link steel bracelet can be swapped with the supplied star-patterned rubber strap with steel folding buckle.

The DEFY Skyline Chronograph is available from all ZENITH boutiques and authorized retailers.

DEFY SKYLINE CHRONOGRAPH

Reference: 03.9500.3600/51.I001

Key points: 1/10th of a second Chronograph movement. Silicon escape-wheel and lever.

Starry sky pattern on the dial. Screwed-in crown. Date indication at 4:30. Full Interchangeable strap system.

Movement: El Primero 3600 automatic

Frequency: 36’000 VpH – 5Hz

Power reserve: approx. 60 hours

Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. 1/10th of a second Chronograph. Date indication at 4:30 o’clock. Stop-second mechanism.

Finishes: Special oscillating weight with satined finishings

Price: 12’900 CHF

Material: Stainless steel

Water resistance: 10 ATM

Case: 42mm

Dial: Blue-toned sunray-patterned

Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1

Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1

Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel bracelet. 2nd bracelet included: blue rubber with stainless steel folding clasp.

 

DEFY SKYLINE CHRONOGRAPH

Reference: 03.9500.3600/01.I001

Key points: 1/10th of a second Chronograph movement. Silicon escape-wheel and lever.

Starry sky pattern on the dial. Screwed-in crown. Date indication at 4:30. Full Interchangeable strap system.

Movement: El Primero 3600 automatic

Frequency: 36’000 VpH – 5Hz

Power reserve: approx. 60 hours

Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. 1/10th of a second Chronograph.

Date indication at 4:30 o’clock. Stop-second mechanism.

Finishes: Special oscillating weight with satined finishings

Price: 12’900 CHF

Material: Stainless steel

Water resistance: 10 ATM

Case: 42mm

Dial: Silver-toned sunray-patterned

Hour markers: Ruthenium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1

Hands: Ruthenium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1

Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel bracelet. 2nd bracelet included: green rubber with stainless steel folding clasp.

DEFY SKYLINE CHRONOGRAPH

Reference: 03.9500.3600/21.I001

Key points: 1/10th of a second Chronograph movement. Silicon escape-wheel and lever.

Starry sky pattern on the dial. Screwed-in crown. Date indication at 4:30.

Full Interchangeable strap system.

Movement: El Primero 3600 automatic

Frequency: 36’000 VpH – 5Hz

Power reserve: approx. 60 hours

Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. 1/10th of a second Chronograph.

Date indication at 4:30 o’clock. Stop-second mechanism.

Finishes: Special oscillating weight with satined finishings

Price: 12’900 CHF

Material: Stainless steel

Water resistance: 10 ATM

Case: 42mm

Dial: Black-toned sunray-patterned

Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1

Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1

Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel bracelet. 2nd bracelet included: black rubber with stainless steel folding clasp

ZENITH: TIME TO REACH YOUR STAR.

ZENITH exists to inspire individuals to pursue their dreams and make them come true – against all odds. Since its establishment in 1865, ZENITH became the first vertically integrated Swiss watch manufacture, and its watches have accompanied extraordinary figures that dreamt big and strived to achieve the impossible – from Louis Blériot’s history-making flight across the English Channel to Felix Baumgartner’s record-setting stratospheric free-fall jump. Zenith is also highlighting visionary and trailblazing women by celebrating their accomplishments and creating the DREAMHERS platform where women share their experiences and inspire others to fulfil their dreams.

With innovation as its guiding star, ZENITH exclusively features in-house developed and manufactured movements in all its watches. Since the creation of the El Primero in 1969, the world’s first automatic chronograph calibre, ZENITH has gone on to master high-frequency precision and offers time measurements in fractions of a second, including 1/10th of a second in the Chronomaster collection and 1/100th of a second in the DEFY collection. Because innovation is synonymous with responsibility, the ZENITH HORIZ-ON initiative affirms the brand’s commitments to inclusion & diversity, sustainability and employee wellbeing. ZENITH has been shaping the future of Swiss watchmaking since 1865, accompanying those who dare to challenge themselves and reach new heights. The time to reach your star is now.

HUBLOT UNVEILS A NEW INTERPRETATION OF SAPPHIRE

Posted on by
Reply

BIG BANG MP-11 14-DAY POWER RESERVE WATER BLUE SAPPHIRE

 

The MP-11, featuring its sculptural 7-barrel movement with a 2-week power reserve, makes its debut in a brand-new sapphire colour: a radiant and translucent water blue. A new colour is added to Hublot’s palette of sapphire tones, a major first for this Manufacture Piece.

“The uniqueness of Hublot – a fully integrated Manufacture – lies in its technical excellence interms of both its movements and its exterior. R&D is at the heart of our DNA, and each MP, shaped by our profoundly innovative approach, is an opportunity for us to test new sapphires that may later become part of our regular collections. Our MPs are a laboratory, an exploration of what the watchmaking of tomorrow might look like today” 

RICARDO GUADALUPE, HUBLOT CEO

For some, it was just yesterday. For others, it has been an eternity. Just think: Baselworld 2018! Yet, Hublot regularly set the heart of the watchmaking world aflutter, beating to the rhythm of creations that defied all convention. The MP-11 was no exception. Six years on, it remains what it has always been: first, unique and different.

It has to be said that the bar is very high: seven barrels, and a 14-day power reserve. Quite a benchmark to reach! But beyond the numbers, there is the technology, which remains the pinnacle of inventiveness in watchmaking. To maintain a conventional height (10.9 mm), the seven barrels are coaxial and vertical. They are not integrated into the thickness of the movement. They are physically in front of it, set at 90° to it.

To allow their 336 hours of power reserve to reach the movement, Hublot had to design a tailor-made device: a 90° transmission which uses a helical worm gear, following the principle of an endless screw. The wheel in question is clearly visible between 9 and 10 o’clock. To ensure harmony with this mechanism, Hublot has taken care to place the balance opposite it at 2 o’clock, with its rate at 4 o’clock. The Hublot HUB9011 calibre, with 270 components, is also distinguished by its patented index-assembly system and silicon escapement which protects the movement from any electromagnetic or thermal interference.

A very slowly rotating disc (one revolution every two weeks) indicates the remaining power reserve as close as possible to its energy source, directly at the head of the seven aligned barrels. Furthermore, by echoing the shape of the barrels, the sapphire crystal naturally creates a magnifying effect on this signature element of the watch. The Big Bang MP-11 can be wound manually using the large, fluted crown with a worm screw type relief that echoes the helical gear, or an electric Torx stylus. This sculptural construction is truly worthy of the name “Manufacture Piece”, earning its place in the MP collection.

A new variation of water blue sapphire

The MP-11 has been the power behind the most daring aesthetic interpretations: ceramic, SAXEM, Magic Gold, 3D carbon. But sapphire remains Hublot’s material of choice. The Manufacture is the undisputed master in its use, with probably the widest range of shades in the watch industry. The 2024 edition of the MP-11 is no exception to the long tradition of innovation at the heart of Hublot’s DNA. For the first time, it will be available in “Water Blue” sapphire.

This new shade is based on a new chemical formula, a custom development, and an exclusive transparency index, yet still boasts all the usual properties of sapphire: brilliant, luminous, perfectly inalterable, and resistant to knocks and scratches. We must also highlight its exemplary polishing, a very delicate operation usually completed by hand. The result required compliance with a very strict set of specifications, and took several years to develop and test, in particular to simulate accelerated ageing and guarantee flawless water-resistance. The result is close to perfection, in line with the MP spirit.

Hublot is a Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1980 and based in Nyon. For its first ever timepiece, this fundamentally disruptive company combined gold with a rubber strap in a case with a design inspired by a ship’s porthole (hublot in French). Thus, the Art of Fusion was born, blending tradition, innovation, craftsmanship, worlds and talents. It became the brand’s aesthetic and technical signature.

This identity was strengthened in 2005 with the Big Bang, which attested to an unrivalled know-how in terms of complications, manufacture movements and state-of-the-art materials. Carbon, titanium, ceramic and sapphire have been developed on this model to technical extremes.

 

This ground-breaking, high-quality approach to watchmaking is summed up in its philosophy ‘Be First, Unique and Different.’ It gradually led to other collections with innovative designs: Classic Fusion, Shaped Collection (Spirit of Big Bang, Square Bang) and Manufacture Pieces. These draw on high levels of craftsmanship, both in terms of the materials so dear to Hublot (such as Magic Gold, brightly-coloured ceramics and sapphires) and its manufacture movements (Unico chronograph, Meca-10 and high complications such as the Tourbillon, the Cathedral Minute Repeater and the specific Manufacture Pieces movements).

Hublot’s world extends to powerful partnerships including football. ‘Hublot Loves Football’ has become the slogan at the world’s biggest sporting events (such as the FIFA World CupTM, Premier League, UEFA Champions League, UEFA EUROTM) and through its ambassadors. This love of football continues in art, design, music, sport, fine dining and sailing. Lastly, Hublot’s implication in joint environmental projects with SORAI and Polar Pod reflects its concern for the issues of the day. Over 130 boutiques around the world share Hublot’s fervour and values, alongside the Hublot.com e-commerce site.

Stacked from 40 images. Method=B (R=8,S=4)

H. Moser & Cie THE STREAMLINER TOURBILLON SKELETON: WHERE TRANSPARENCY MEETS SYMMETRY

Posted on by
Reply

Designed to offer an unparalleled visual and mechanical experience, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton features a stunning minimalist aesthetic and perfect symmetry. One of the most striking features of this model is its transparency. True to its minimalist philosophy, H. Moser & Cie. has stripped away all unnecessary material to better showcase and enhance the piece, laying bare the stark beauty of its mechanism. At the heart of this exceptional, entirely skeletonised watch lies a one-minute flying tourbillon with a double hairspring that appears to float weightlessly. A bold stylistic statement, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton is quite simply a manifesto for ingenuity. A creation endowed with refined elegance and spectacular aesthetics, in a Streamliner case measuring 40 mm in diameter.

In 2022, H. Moser & Cie. presented the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and made a remarkable entry into the skeleton watch segment, while defining its own codes for the skeleton aesthetic. Using the same signatures, the Manufacture is launching its second skeleton model, this time part of the Streamliner collection. By removing as much material as possible, H. Moser & Cie. has sculpted every detail of the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton with precision, resulting in a creation with a stark, refined aesthetic. The skeletonisation process has produced an extremely refined, luminous piece, highly transparent with incredible depth that reveals all the beauty of the watch mechanism, usually hidden from view. The barrel, which has also been hollowed out, offers a view of the spring, allowing the wearer to check that it is wound correctly.

Right through the watch you can see the rotor, which has also been openworked. Particular attention has been paid to symmetry, ensuring the proportions are perfectly balanced. The minimalist finishes are modern, adorning the anthracite main plate and bridges with drawn strokes combined with precise bevelling.

Featuring a 40.0-mm steel cushion case water-resistant to 12 ATM, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton offers extraordinary ergonomics thanks to the design which includes a fully integrated steel bracelet with no lugs on the case. The case middle features recessed and satin-finished forms on the sides, with alternating polished and brushed surfaces. It is topped by a subtly domed sapphire crystal, echoed by the see-through case back.

Extending these curves, the integrated steel bracelet is elegantly arced to follow the line of the wrist. Highly complex in construction, this bracelet has extremely fluid lines based on organic forms. Pointing to gold-plated indices, the three-dimensional hour and minute hands made from two sections feature inserts with Globolight®, an innovative ceramic-based material containing Super-LumiNova®.

Seemingly floating in the middle of a void, a one-minute flying tourbillon positioned at six o’clock comes to life to power this exceptional timepiece. A marvel of ingenuity, this automatic HMC 814 skeleton movement is equipped with a double hairspring designed and produced in-house by H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company

Precision Engineering AG. Thanks to this pair of matched hairsprings, the movement of the point of gravity on each spring when it expands is corrected and the effect of friction reduced, significantly improving accuracy and isochronism in continual pursuit of perfection.

The Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton model is designed for demanding, visionary watch lovers who appreciate the harmonious union of form and function. H. Moser & Cie.’s own and unique take on Haute Horlogerie.

H. MOSER & CIE.

H. Moser & Cie. was created by Heinrich Moser in 1828. Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, it currently employs more than 90 people, has developed 18 in-house calibres to date and produces around 3,000 watches per annum. Through its sister company Precision Engineering AG (PEAG), H. Moser & Cie. manufactures parts such as regulating organs and balance-springs, which are used for its own production as well as to supply its partner companies. Independent company incorporated into Moser Watch Holding in 2012, Precision Engineering AG specialises in watch components for escapements, from their initial design to the production of a quality product ready to be integrated into the watch movement it must regulate. H. Moser & Cie. is honoured to have a Moser family member with the company as Honorary Chairman and President of the Heinrich and Henri Moser Foundation. The aim of the Moser Foundation, created by one of Heinrich Moser’s descendants, is to keep the family history alive and seek out antique pieces for the Moser Museum, located in Charlottenfels Manor, Heinrich Moser’s family home. With its substantial watchmaking expertise and highly acclaimed experience in the sector, MELB Holding holds shares in H. Moser & Cie., Hautlence and Agenhor SA. MELB Holding is an independent family group, based in the heart ofthe legendary Vallée de Joux.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – STREAMLINER TOURBILLON SKELETON DOUBLE HAIRSPRING

Reference 6814-1200, steel model, skeleton dial, integrated steel bracelet

Case

Steel topped by a slightly domed sapphire crystal

Diameter: 40.0 mm

Height without sapphire crystal: 10.3 mm; Height with sapphire crystal: 12.1 mm

See-through case-back

Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”

Water-resistant to 12 ATM

Dial

Fully skeletonised

5N gold-plated faceted indices

5N gold-plated hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts

Movement

Fully skeletonised HMC 814, self-winding, three-dimensional Manufacture calibre

Diameter: 32.0 mm or 141/4 lignes / height: 5.5 mm

Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h

28 jewels

167 components

Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system

Gold, fully skeletonised oscillating weight

Power reserve: minimum 72 hours

Original double hairspring

One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonised bridge

Diamond bevelling

Main plate and bridges with anthracite finishes

Functions

Hours and minutes

Strap/bracelet

Integrated steel bracelet

Folding clasp with three steel blades, engraved with the Moser logo

Half-links available

L’Epée 1839 x Alex Moss = Grenade

Posted on by
Reply

Horological art blowing up your conceptions of time.

L’Epée 1839 x Alex Moss Grenade is not just any ordinary timepiece; It is an artistic object that dares us to embrace the present moment and seize life’s opportunities.

Drawing inspiration from diverse art forms, from contemporary art to street art, this exclusive collaborative collection shatters conventions by seamlessly fusing the realms of horology and jewelry craftsmanship.

The L’Epée 1839 x Alex Moss Grenade features a pin that doubles as the key, which when pulled allows for setting the time and winding the eight-day movement. The moment you pull the pin on a grenade the mind is focused: the grenade is live, and you must concentrate on the here and now to live.

The clock forces the mind to focus on the moment you are in and the task of winding and setting the time, reminding you that you are only guaranteed this very moment, as Time is precious so don’t waste it.

The hours and minutes are displayed on two black aluminium disks rotating directly over the beating heart of Grenade. Ticking away at a traditional 18,000 vibrations per hour, the balance wheel is front and centered, audibly reminding us that time is slipping away, and we never know how much time we have left. Once you wind Grenade and set its time display, the next step is to seize the day.

The collaboration:

It’s difficult to imagine a time when only the prominent and wealthy individuals in society had the privilege of owning timekeeping instruments. Nowadays, we often take the ability to measure time for granted. However, timepieces now serve a distinct purpose in our lives. Wearing a particular watch on your wrist isn’t merely a way to effortlessly keep track of time… It’s a method of demonstrating that you have achieved a level of status in your life or profession.

Throughout history, watches and clocks have always been more than just devices that tell time. They are artistic creations with significance and value that go beyond their practical usefulness which is why L’Epée 1839 and Alex Moss were honored to partnering and give birth to an exceptional Time piece.

The collaboration consists of a limited-edition collection of L’Epée 1839’s Grenade, modeled after the historical MKII grenade featuring a pin doubling as the key, which when pulled allows for setting the time and winding the eight-day movement, covered in Alex’s rare diamonds. Its open worked movement allows light to go through the movement and the entire structure. The Grenade sparkles from every angle, thanks to the exceptional diamond set technique used by Alex Moss. As if caught in an infinite dance of reflected light, the Grenade undergoes a captivating transformation, morphing into a living object before our eyes.

The pieces – with a retail price of $149,000 / 135’000 CHF will be available in the most exclusive point of sales.

About Alex Moss

Growing up in Toronto in the mid-to-late 2000s, Alex has always appreciated artistic expression. He picked up Photoshop at a young age and dabbled in graphic design before enrolling in Parsons for fashion design. Still, hip-hop culture sparked his curiosity. As he found his way through New York, and eventually to jewelry, he never lost his desire to break the mold.

Alex’s bold approach provides an antidote to the monotony of Manhattan’s Diamond District, where almost every storefront looks the same and most family-owned businesses pass through the generations. He has become one of the most in-demand names in the small, competitive world of diamond-dense custom jewelry, a niche occupied by players like Greg Yuna, Eliantte & Co. and Avianne & Co.

Now, his loyal crowd includes notable artists, businessmen, and entertainment leaders like Drake, Tyler, the Creator, and Jack Harlow who go to him for their special pieces.

Take a look at recent The New York Times article about Alex Moss: https://www.nytimes.com/2023/02/05/style/alex-moss-jewelry-drake.html

Alex Moss Website: https://alexmossny.com/gallery-2-0/

About L’Epée

Based in Delémont, in the Swiss Jura, L’Epée 1839 is a Swiss manufacturer specializing in the design and production of high-end mechanical clocks – an Art it has been perpetuating for over

180 years. All timepieces are designed or co-designed, engineered and manufactured in-house, from the development to the assembly.

The Manufacture is gathering under one roof a broad range of “métiers” and craftsmen. Talented teams of designers, engineers, mechanics and watchmakers are working together to continue L’Epée’s quest of perfection and its engagement to surprise with incredible creations.

The technical prowess, combination of Form and Function, very long power reserves, remarkable finishes mixed with a twist of humor and a huge attention to details have become signature features of the brand.

GRENADE – Alex Moss x L’Epée 1839

Technical specifications

 

Exclusive Collection

Dimensions: 120.5 mm (height) x 77.6 mm (width) x 66.6 mm (depth)

Weight: 620 g (real MKII grenade of same shape is 600 – 630 g)

Diamonds approx. 2144 stones for 34.27 carats –  Clarity VVS – Color D-F

FUNCTIONS

Hours and minutes are displayed on black aluminium disks with engraved numerals.

Time is set with grenade pin on top of frame, mainspring wound on bottom of frame.

Number of components: 255 (without the diamonds).

MOVEMENT

L’Épée 1839 movement designed and manufactured in-house

Multilevel vertical architecture

Balance frequency: 2.5 Hz / 18,000 vibrations/h

11 jewels

Incabloc shock protection system

Power reserve: 8 days

MATERIALS & FINISHING

Palladium-plated brass

Stainless steel

Finish: polished, satin brushed, sandblasted.

Diamonds (Clarity VVS – Color D-F)