Speake Marin presents the Tourbillon Royal Blue, a new interpretation of its emblematic Openworked collection, combining the Maison’s Piccadilly case with an intensely coloured Royal Blue mechanical architecture.
The timepiece brings together a 42 mm 5N red-gold case, an openworked construction and the automatic manufacture SMA05 calibre. Limited to just five pieces, the Tourbillon Royal Blue offers a highly exclusive expression of Speake Marin’s approach to Anglo-Swiss watchmaking.
Mechanics Takes Centre Stage
The Openworked collection places the movement at the heart of the watch’s aesthetic. Bridges, openings and indications unfold across several levels, creating a fully exposed mechanical construction.
The Tourbillon Royal Blue continues this approach through the iconic Piccadilly case. Redesigned in 2017 by Eric Giroud, the case reinterprets Speake Marin’s historic design codes through more fluid and sculptural lines.
Royal Blue as the Defining Thread
Royal Blue runs throughout the Tourbillon Royal Blue, covering the openworked dial, flange and selected movement components.
The intense shade, inspired by Pantone 287 C, contrasts with the warmth of the 5N red gold and the anthracite-grey rhodium plating. Subtle 4N details add another layer of contrast, while a red accent on the power-reserve display provides a graphic highlight.
The Piccadilly Case in 5N Red Gold
The Tourbillon Royal Blue is housed in Speake Marin’s 42 mm Piccadilly case, crafted in 5N red gold.
Its sculptural lines frame the openworked movement, revealing the flying tourbillon, power-reserve indication and finishing of the SMA05 calibre.
A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment protects the dial, while a sapphire crystal caseback reveals the movement from the reverse.
The flared and fluted crown is crafted in 5N red gold and set with a blue sapphire. The caseback carries the Speake Marin and One & Two signatures together with the inscription “Limited Edition of 5.”
The watch is fitted with a Royal Blue ostrich leather strap, hand-stitched with gold-coloured thread, with a light-brown calfskin lining and 5N red-gold pin buckle.
A Dial Conceived as Architecture in Motion
The fully openworked dial exposes the mechanics beneath and is structured around two principal focal points: the flying tourbillon at 1:30 and the power-reserve indication at 7:30.
The upper plate receives a Royal Blue PVD treatment and is intentionally left unlacquered to preserve the depth and intensity of the colour. Straight-grained lines extend from the tourbillon towards the power-reserve display.
Microblasted recesses contrast with satin-brushed surfaces, while diamond-cut edges and opaline-finished bevels catch the light. Glossy light-grey details in Pantone 420 C contribute to legibility, while a ruby within the power-reserve display introduces a subtle red accent.
The surrounding circular-grained brass flange is also finished in Royal Blue PVD. Twelve Pantone 420 C light-grey Super-LumiNova hour markers emit blue luminescence, while the 4N PVD-treated hour and minute hands feature light-grey lacquer and blue luminescence.
The SMA05 Calibre
At the heart of the Tourbillon Royal Blue is the automatic manufacture SMA05 calibre, equipped with a fully integrated micro-rotor and a flying tourbillon completing one rotation every 60 seconds.
The movement provides a 72-hour power reserve and operates at 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour. It comprises 290 components, including 63 components for the tourbillon cage.
The bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève and finished in anthracite-grey rhodium plating, while the central bridge features a circular-grained 4N gold-tone PVD coating.
The tungsten oscillating weight and barrel drum are rhodium-plated. The tourbillon is topped by Speake Marin’s signature Topping Tool bridge, polished and finished in 4N.
The barrel carries laser-engraved One & Two, Openworked and Flying Tourbillon inscriptions, accompanied by striped decoration that continues onto the oscillating weight.
Speake Marin Tourbillon Royal Blue: Technical Specifications
Reference: 424211010
Movement
Automatic manufacture SMA05 calibre
Fully integrated tungsten micro-rotor
60-second flying tourbillon at 1:30
Power-reserve indication at 7:30
290 components, including 63 for the tourbillon cage
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: minimum 72 hours
33 jewels
Diameter: 34 mm
Thickness: 7.15 mm, excluding hands
Microblasted mainplate with Royal Blue PVD treatment
Central bridge with 4N PVD treatment
Signature Topping Tool tourbillon bridge
Laser-engraved barrel
Striped decoration continued onto the oscillating weight
Functions
Hours
Minutes
Seconds displayed on the tourbillon cage
Power-reserve indication
Case
Iconic Piccadilly case
5N red gold
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 12.35 mm
Flared and fluted 5N red-gold crown set with a blue sapphire
Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Sapphire crystal caseback
“Limited Edition of 5” engraving
Water resistance: 3 ATM
Dial
Three-dimensional openworked dial finished in Royal Blue PVD
Straight-grained surfaces
Microblasted recesses
Diamond-cut edges
Circular-grained Royal Blue PVD flange
Twelve Pantone 420 C light-grey Super-LumiNova hour markers
4N PVD-treated hands
Pantone 420 C light-grey lacquer
Blue luminescence
Glossy red Pantone 199 C detail on the power-reserve indication
PEQUIGNET introduces its first flying tourbillon, an exceptional watchmaking achievement, available in stores from early October. Designed for enthusiasts of French Haute Horlogerie, this masterpiece is a limited edition of 24 pieces.
The tourbillon, a 19th-century invention aimed at improving the accuracy of mechanical watches, remains a rare complication among French watch brands. PEQUIGNET stands out by offering this tourbillon, designed in its Manufacture with components locally produced within an 80 km radius and assembled in Morteau.
With this watch, the Maison PEQUIGNET joins the very exclusive circle of elite watchmakers.
A QUASI-HYPNOTIC MARVEL
This exceptional watch is animated by the fourth «in-house» movement by PEQUIGNET, based on the prestigious Calibre Royal® and named the Calibre Royal® Tourbillon. .
Traditionally mounted at 6 o’clock, the flying tourbillon is designed without an upper bridge, giving the impression of a weightless cage and creating a fascinating and hypnotic visual effect. This one-minute tourbillon, equipped with a concentric balance, features a titanium cage, a material that is particularly delicate to work with for such small components.
Another technical and aesthetic advantage: PEQUIGNET flying tourbillon is visible from both the dial and the bridge side, offering a complete view of the mechanics. Built on the foundation of the Calibre Royal® with a 3Hz frequency, it retains all its features, including an impressive power reserve of at least 88 hours.
This movement is designed to be admired, visible from both the dial side and the back. Entirely hand-decorated, it reveals its high-quality finishes: beveling, Côtes de Genève, circular graining, circling, sandblasting and drawing. A true masterpiece!
A WATCHMAKING MASTERPIECE
The Royale Tourbillon is housed in a 44 mm rose gold case, featuring a stunning midnight blue “wave effect” dial, reminiscent of a gentle wave starting from the tourbillon at 6 o’clock and flowing up to 12 o’clock.
The rose gold indices and hands capture every bit of light to ensure perfect readability on the refined dial.
The Royale Tourbillon is fitted with a magnificent blue alligator leather strap, echoing the color of the dial.
A rare watch deserves a rare case: made of lacquered wood and specially designed for this first PEQUIGNET Tourbillon, the case mirrors the midnight blue and wave shape of the dial.
THE ART AND SCIENCE OF TIME
Available on October, The Royale Tourbillon is the perfect embodiment of the free and inspired style of PEQUIGNET.
Retail prices (including French VAT): 65 000 euros
Availability: October 2024
• PEQUIGNET Boutique Paris
60 rue de Rennes, 75006 Paris – France
• PEQUIGNET Boutique Besançon
3 rue Moncey, 25000 Besançon – France
INSPIRED BY THE HISTORICAL TACT WATCH MADE BY LEROY IN 1810, THE MAISON HAS CREATED THE UNIQUE GRAND COMPLICATION PIECE “L.LEROY MINUTE REPEATER FLYING TOURBILLON”, AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT THE PRESTIGIOUS CELLINI BOUTIQUE IN NEW YORK.
Founded in Paris in 1785 under Charles Leroy, himself the son of watchmaker, L.Leroy has written some of the finest chapters in the history of French watchmaking and chronometry, developing a wealth of technical and inventive treasures for over two centuries.
This human, artistic and industrial adventure is marked by illustrious names including Marie Antoinette, Proust, Matisse, Napoleon, Queen Victoria, Roosevelt, Chopin, Nobel, Bugatti, to mention but a few owners of a watch signed Leroy.
Faithful to its extraordinary and inimitable watchmaking heritage, L.Leroy has created the stunning unique piece “Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon” inspired by a rare ancient pendant tact watch made by Leroy around 1810 for the Prince Emil Maximilian Leopold August of Hesse and which is now part of the prestigious collection of the Patek Philippe Museum.
At that period, when electricity was unknown and luminous hands were not yet invented, this type of watch allowed the time to be read, even in the dark, by touching the hand that moved in the direction of the twelve diamonds on the periphery of the case, acting as indices.
In the 21st century, L.Leroy reinterprets this exquisite timepiece. A challenge that sees the Maison blend, in perfect harmony, its rich historical legacy with the demands of the contemporary era.
Today, the “L.Leroy Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon”, a striking and sophisticated wristwatch which appeals to eyes and ears, enriches the watchmaking selection of Cellini in New York, one of the world’s leading stores that devotes great attention to exclusive high-end watch brands.
A UNIQUE DESIGN AND A SUPERLATIVE MECHANICS
A watch with a very complex construction, both in terms of style and mechanics, which required the highly qualified skills of watchmaking technicians for the development and assembly of its manual winding movement, comprising a flying tourbillon and the minute repeater mechanism. Not forgetting the master engraver and the specialists in top-level finishing.
The case
The case, measuring 43 mm in diameter, is crafted from two metals. The case body, lugs, case back, repeater slide and crown are made of grade 5 titanium while the bezel and cover on the case back are made of PD210 18K palladium white gold.
Completely hand-engraved with a precious floral motif, an operation far from easy on titanium parts given its hardness, it took no less than 120 hours of work by highly skilled master engravers. This delicate art allows these superlative decorations to stand out against the metal, playing with the light.
The transparent case back is protected by the 18K white gold cover which boasts a magnificent engraving that evokes another horological masterpiece from the Maison L.Leroy: the “Leroy 01”.
Awarded the Grand Prix at the Paris World Exhibition in 1900, it’s an impressive pocket watch with 975 components, 27 precise and functional indications including 17 relating directly to the measurement of time, exceptional decorations and engravings. It was considered the most complicated watch in the world until 1989.
The “L.Leroy Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon” is complemented by an integrated aquamarine strap in soft calfskin. It fastens to the wrist with a round folding clasp in 18K white gold, bearing the brand’s interlaced double “L” logo. In perfect harmony with the case, it is also engraved by hand.
An eye-catching dial and a stunning calibre
The “L.Leroy Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon” features a unique and out-of-the-ordinary time display for a model from the 2000s, but legitimised by the historical piece from which it takes its inspiration. It has a rotating dial boasting a superlative flinqué soleil decoration with a translucent aquamarine varnish finish. This pattern emanates near a perimeter point, where the rhodium-plated, arrow-shaped, hand-engraved hour hand is fixed and extends its rays around the circumference of the display.
When the dial rotates, the arrow-shaped hand points towards the diamond markers set on the precious hand-engraved white gold bezel and indicates the hour. There are 24 diamonds totalling 1.35 carats, the larger ones mark the hours while the smaller ones indicate the half-hour.
To know the precise time, the minute repeater comes into action. This sophisticated mechanism, reputed to be the queen of complications, is developed on a hand-wound movement, which is also equipped with a flying tourbillon that improves its chronometric performance.
Once the repeater slide, positioned between 8:30 and 9:30, is activated, the time will be audible acoustically thanks to the finely tuned chiming mechanism. The design of the case has been meticulously studied and developed to amplify the different tones of the sound indicating the hours, quarters and minutes emitted by the two gongs struck by the two hammers, visible on the case back.
The powerful “engine” which drives this work of art is a hand-wound in-house calibre, consisting of 321 components, beating at a frequency of 3Hz/ 21.600 vibrations per hour. It comprises the minute repeater mechanism on two gongs, a single barrel guaranteeing 90-hour power reserve and the flying tourbillon which performs a complete rotation in one minute.
Lovers of fine watchmaking mechanics will be able to admire this amazing movement with its single bridge, finely hand-engraved with hand-bevelled edges, by opening the 18K white gold cover on the case back using the discreet push-button at 4 o’clock.
The “L.Leroy Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon” once again testifies to the brand’s technical expertise and its mastery of the art of decoration. A true joy for the lucky collector who, will enrich his collection with a unique and exclusive masterpiece of time.
Movement:
• Manufacture manual-winding movement, minute repeater, flying tourbillon
• Number of components: 321
• Fitting diameter: 30 mm
• Thickness: 8.89 mm
• Number of jewels: 29
• Vibrations per hour: 21.600 / Frequency: 3 Hz
• Variable inertia balance wheel with flat balance-spring
• Swiss lever escapement
• Single barrel
• Unique bridge with engraved floral decoration, hand-bevelled edges, rhodium-plated
• Power reserve: 90-hour
• Minute repeater on two gongs struck by two hammers: hours and quarters hammer on the right / Minutes and quarters hammer on the left (view from the case back)
Tourbillon cage :
– diameter: 13,60 mm
– 76 parts
– complete rotation in 1 minute
Functions:
• Hours and half-hour indication
• Minute-repeater on two gongs for audible hour, quarter and minute indication
Case:
• Materials:
– case body, case back, repeater slide and crown in polished grade 5 titanium
– back cover, bezel and buckle in 18K palladium white gold (PD210)
• Diameter: 43 mm
• Thickness: 13,95mm, including back cover
• Engraved repeater slide between 8:30 and 9:30
• Push-button of the back cover: at 4:00 o’clock
• Decorations and inscriptions:
– Case, bezel and back cover fully hand-engraved
– Back cover: hand-engraved motif on the outside, engraved L.Leroy logo on the inside
– Inscription “Unique piece” on the case back
• Diamond-set bezel: 24 diamonds, quality G +VS, totalling 1.35 carats
• Water resistance: 3 ATM
• Antireflective sapphire crystal glass on dial and case back
Dial:
• Rotating dial with flinqué soleil decoration, translucent aquamarine varnish finish
• Fixed arrow-shaped rhodium plated hour hand, hand-engraved
• Diamond hour markers on the bezel: 12 for the hour indication and 12 smaller ones for the half-hour indication
Strap:
• Aquamarine calf leather strap matching the dial colour
• Round-shaped open worked folding buckle featuring the brand’s interlaced double “L” logo in 18K palladium white gold (PD210), hand-engraved.
PEQUIGNET unveils, at a preview showing during Watches and Wonders 2024, its first flying tourbillon, a true extraordinary horological feat. Designed for enthusiasts of French high watchmaking, it will be manufactured in a limited series of 24 pieces.
Invented in the 19th century, the tourbillon aimed to overcome the lack of precision in mechanical movements caused by the vertical position of pocket watches placed in the gentlemen’s jackets.
This horological “grail” goes on captivating enthusiasts, collectors, and watchmakers. While the tourbillon is one of the most beautiful and spectacular complications we could find in renowned Swiss watchmaking names, it is extremely rare within French brands.
For the first time in its history, PEQUIGNET once again asserts its French specificity by introducing a tourbillon designed in its own Manufacture. All its components are manufactured within an 80-kilometer radius and assembled in its workshops in Morteau.
THE ULTIMATE HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATION
The launch of a tourbillon is a milestone in the development of a Manufacture. This significant step legitimizes and confirms the reputation of a Maison. With the Royale Tourbillon, PEQUIGNET joins the elite watchmakers.
This model is equipped with the fourth PEQUIGNET “in-house movement”. Its code name EPM04. Based on the prestigious Calibre Royal®’s construction, the name Calibre Royal® Tourbillon logically appeared. This rarity will only be produced in 24 pieces to celebrate its birth year: 2024. PEQUIGNET imagined a tourbillon in its most refined, sophisticated, and horological version: a flying tourbillon!
The flying tourbillon is a complex regulating mechanism. Traditionally placed at 6 o’clock, the flying tourbillon is special as it is mounted without any upper bridge, giving the impression of wearing a weightless tourbillon cage on the wrist, visually unobstructed. A nearly hypnotic wonder to observe. For this horological marvel, this 1-minute tourbillon (rotating in sixty seconds) features a concentric balance wheel in the cage. The cage itself is made of titanium, a particularly delicate metal to machine, especially for such a small component.
Another technical and aesthetic achievement, this flying tourbillon is visible not only on the dial side but also on the bridge side!Developed on the designing of the Calibre Royal® and beating at 3Hz, it retains its main characteristics, including its extraordinary power reserve of at least 88 hours, possible thanks to its large barrel. A power reserve that comfortably exceeds the “weekend-proof” standards required by connoisseurs nowadays.
A WATCHMAKING MASTERPIECE
Naturally, this high horology movement on display is hand-decorated in accordance with the highest professional norms. The discerning eye will notice high-flying finishes: beveling, Côtes de Genève, circular graining, circling, sandblasting, and drawing. An outstanding work!
This exceptional watch features a 44 mm diameter 5N rose gold case with a thickness of 11.70 mm. It has a water resistance of 5 ATM. This flying tourbillon watch boasts a stunning midnight blue «wave» effect dial inspiring serenity, almost zen, that seems to emanate from the tourbillon situated at 6 o’clock and spreading upwards where the PEQUIGNET logo modestly takes pride of place at 12 o’clock with no other indication.
The polished indices appliques are rose gold 5N tinted, just like the faceted baton hour and minute hands using any available light source for a perfect readability of this very pure dial, in any circumstance.
This exceptional “made in France” Royale Tourbillon watch is mounted on a sumptuous blue alligator strap that complements its dial. It is combined with a tongue buckle made of the same metal as the case. For a rare watch, a specific box: made of lacquered wood and specially designed for this first PEQUIGNET Tourbillon, echoing the midnight blue and wave shape of the dial.
THE ART AND SCIENCE OF TIME
Pequignet embodies a French vision of time: the time we dare to dedicate to ourselves, the time we draw away from. Pequignet is designed for independent spirits, those who seek to assert their freedom, emancipate themselves from conventions, and stand out without showing off. Pequignet aims to offer an uninhibited Haute Horlogerie experience in its own distinctive way.
PEQUIGNET, FRENCH WATCHMAKING EXCELLENCE
As a French high-end watchmaking manufacture, Pequignet holds the label of “Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant” (Living Heritage Company). The conception and production of its watches and movements take place in its workshops located in Morteau, at the heart of the French Jura. Founded in 1973 by Émile Péquignet, this watchmaking house has always created timepieces that break free from conventional codes and norms. Pequignet stands out as one of the few independent watchmaking houses.
In 2010, Pequignet evolved into a manufacture, welcoming highly skilled watch engineers. The Manufacture designs exceptional calibres, incorporating the latest technologies that bring life to its innovative and elegant watch creations. In 2011, Pequignet won fame by creating its own movement: the Calibre Royal®, the sole high-end French movement. It is designed and assembled by the Pequignet Manufacture. A manual version of the Calibre Royal® was introduced in 2018, followed by a third movement, the Calibre Initial®, in 2021.
In 2021, Pequignet joined Enowe Excellence, an organization founded by Hugues Souparis, a former industrialist and entrepreneur committed to supporting French excellence in craftsmanship. He became the president of the Manufacture.
ROYALE TOURBILLON 9035475 AB
CASE
Diameter: 44 mm
5N Rose Gold 18K
Weight of gold: 54.94 g
Polish finishing of the case with domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Crown with embossed « Fleur-de-Lys » logo
DIAL
Textured blue, drop of water
Rose (5N) gold plated stamped hands
5N colour index
Tourbillon position at 6.00 Diamond-coatedtourbillonopening,5Ncolour
MOVEMENT®
Calibre Royal Tourbillon
Diameter: 34.5 mm / Thickness: 6.11 mm 88-hour power reserve
23 jewels
Flying tourbillon, with balance concentric to the cage, visible from the dial and from the movement
Titanium cage, 157 pieces, 1 revolution per minute Balance with solid gold compensating screws, frequency of 21,600 alt/hour (3Hz), large balance with important inertia: 12mg/cm2 Hand decoration: Bevelling, Côtes de Genève, Circular graining, Circling, Sandblasting, Drawing
WATER RESISTANCE: 5 ATM
THICKNESS: 11.70 mm
LUG-WIDTH: 22 mm
CASEBACK: Secured by 6 screws, sapphire opening on the movement
STRAP: Blue alligator strap with tone-on-tone stitching
CLASP: Polished gold ardillon buckle (5N, 18K) with Fleur-de-Lys logo
Weight of gold: 7.6 g
EUROPE RETAIL PRICE INCL. TAX: 65000€
AVAILABLE ON
September 2024
Limited edition of 24 pieces
Availability
PEQUIGNET Boutique Paris60 rue de Rennes, 75006 Paris – France
PEQUIGNET Boutique Besançon3 rue Moncey, 25000 Besançon – France
The new “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” features a vibrant hue inspired by the lights of a futuristic city.
ONE & TWO OPENWORKED COLLECTION
The undisputed identity signature of the ONE & TWO OPENWORKED collection is the original dial, decorated with ever-changing finishes and details, which enhance the excellence and charm of the horological art. Each creation boasts an appealing three dimensional display that endows it with a modern style. The sophisticated openworked structure, evoking the imaginary architecture of elevated intersections in a futuristic city, gives the multi-layered dial an even more dynamic look. In addition, the unique geometry and arrangement of the bridges create fascinating and unique aesthetic effects. Each timepiece in the ONE & TWO OPENWORKED collection allows the wearer to dive into its powerful “engine” without taking it off the wrist.
All this beauty is encased in the classic round “Piccadilly” case, a reminder of the brand’s British origins.
Revamped in 2017 by renowned designer Eric Giroud, it now features a smoother and more sinuous
shape than the original.
All ONE & TWO OPENWORKED collections are available in 38- and 42-mm case sizes.
The Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet: inspiration
The focus of the new “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet”, both from a structural and conceptual point of view, is the Tourbillon complication, whose cage containing the regulating organ and rotating on its own axis is able to offset the negative effects of the earth’s gravity by optimising timekeeping precision. This device, patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, is a little like allowing the watch
to escape from the earth’s gravitational field, placing it almost outside the atmosphere and the orbit ofour planet, in the sidereal space.
The “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” invites the imagination to enter a metaverse city of futuristic architecture illuminated by rays of light and fluorescent colours. Among the vibrant, bright tones, the choice of ultra-violet makes the dial’s grid of this latest creation stand out. This specific, mysterious and fascinating shade surrounds and highlights the main components of the movement, such as the flying tourbillon, the off-centre micro-rotor, the power reserve indicator and the barrel, which stand out against the rhodium-plated and microbeaded black plate. It abstracts this horological masterpiece from the ordinary and elevates it to the universe of heavenly bodies.
A UNIQUE AND FUTURISTIC STYLE
The case
The Piccadilly case of the “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” is crafted from grade 5 titanium. Its flat, horizontally brushed case band, recessed in relation to the polished, domed bezel and case back, gives it a sober, modern aesthetics that is immediately reminiscent of Speake Marin. The flared, grooved crown and the geometric lugs, which hold the strap attachment bars, secured by two screws, complete the harmonious appearance.
Water-resistant to 3 ATM, it is fitted with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal protecting the dial and the see-through case back revealing the bienfacture of the exquisite calibre that powers this creation. Available in 38 mm and 42 mm cases, the timepiece is complemented by a black rubber strap fastened to the wrist with a titanium pin buckle.
A dynamic and striking 3D watch face
Beneath the anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the performance of the movement is at work. As in a prestigious theatre production, where the scenography is meticulously planned, the display becomes the stage on which the main actors play their roles.
The satin-brushed and rhodium-plated dial is multilayered, with carved microbeaded pockets which create a refined grid, with microbeaded profiles angled at 45° in a vibrant ultra-violet hue obtained through positive PDV coating.
The skilful mix of finishes, combined with the choice of a bright colour such as Ultra-Violet, allows for extraordinary light effects that emphasise the SMA05 manufacture calibre. The most striking feature at first glance is the tourbillon cage, which is characterised by the emblematic motif of the mirror-polished topping tool, the symbol of the Geneva-based Maison. This is followed by other visually intriguing components such as the rhodium-plated barrel drum, symmetrical to the complication, embellished with concentric circles and engraved “One & Two Openworked – Flying Tourbillon”. Mirrored are the oscillating weight and power reserve, whose luminescent arrow indicates the elapsed power reserve when it reaches the red dot on the semi-arc. The flange is finished in a circular pattern and has a minute track with light grey markers. These are highlighted at 5-minute intervals by Super-LumiNova emitting blue glow. The heart-shaped hands are also luminescent and clearly visible in all lighting conditions. The rhodium-plated, microbeaded bridges on the barrel and micro-rotor, with their chamfered edges, add further depth to the display.
The end result defines this dial as a true work of art in which creative talent and technical mastery come together to express Speake Marin’s bold and passionate vision of haute horlogerie, where innovation meets savoir-faire.
The uniqueness of the mechanical movement signed by Speake Marin
The SMA05 calibre powering the “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet”, is part of the collection of mechanical movements developed in-house by Le Cercle Des Horlogers, the Manufacture of Speake Marin. With an automatic winding, it operates at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and offers a 72-hour power reserve from a single barrel. It is distinguished by its tourbillon mechanism at
1.30 o’clock: an unusual position that stands out as unique in the watchmaking panorama due to the difficulties of avoiding the time-setting module and now a distinctive and recognised feature of the Maison.
It is a flying tourbillon, fixed at only one point, which requires an extremely precise construction to guarantee the perfect balance of the entire device. A construction that allows the non-stop dance of the regulating organ on the dial side to be admired to the full, and also enhances its motion: the tourbillon appears to float in mid-air and performs a complete rotation on its own axis in one minute.
If the tourbillon is an eye-catcher, it is also thanks to its harmonious and well-balanced layout, in which another iconic element of Speake Marin’s mechanical art plays a starring role: the off-centre micro-rotor, perfectly integrated into the volume of the calibre. Crafted from rhodium-plated tungsten, it is positioned symmetrically in relation to the power reserve.
On the rear, the bevelled black rhodium-plated bridges, with their 1.5 mm Côtes de Genève finish, embrace the PVD-coated central bridge, which shows the fascinating motion of the movements’ gears.
Since its first launch in 2020, the Openworked Tourbillon has seen several versions, always produced in limited quantities and immediately becoming the object of desire of the most demanding collectors. The emphasis on the Ultra-Violet shade which highlights this superlative movement, endows this unprecedented interpretation of the Manufacture’s tourbillon with a new personality.
The “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” is a limited production of only 5 pieces with a 42 mm case and an additional 4 pieces measuring 38 mm in diameter.
Speake Marin, Geneva-based independent brand, was founded in 2002 by an English watchmaker and was immediately received with enthusiasm by watch aficionados and collectors. In 2012, the company was acquired by Mme Christelle Rosnoblet, a French entrepreneur with a passion for art and watchmaking, who is now its CEO and President.
The entry of Mme Rosnoblet injects new energy into Speake Marin. Two pillars mark the Maison’s present and future: the in-house manufacture of its calibres and the stylistic renewal according to contemporary trends, without forgetting the main distinctive codes that have been identifying the brand since its establishment.
In 2014, Mme Rosnoblet invested in the prestigious watchmaking atelier ‘Le Cercle des Horlogers’ in La Chaux-de-Fonds, which is Speake Marin’s internal workshop. Later on, Mme Rosnoblet becomes the majority shareholder. It is here that the Maison’s timepieces are designed, produced, tested, decorated and assembled. Thanks to its independence, Speake Marin enjoys the utmost creative freedom which, combined with the expertise of highly qualified master watchmakers, allows it to create unique and inimitable watches featuring a bold and daring design.
To date, Speake Marin has developed 11 in-house calibres and has a production of around 600 timepieces per year.
In-house manufacture self-winding movement, calibre SMA05, with fully integrated micro-rotor,
60-second flying tourbillon
Total components : 290
Tourbillon cage : 62 components (mobile) + 1 fixed component, 0,56gr
Casing diameter: 34 mm
Thickness: 7.15 mm (without hands)
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21.600 vibrations per hour
Jewels: 33
Screw balance-wheel
Swiss lever escapement
Power reserve: 72-hour (when fully wound)
Black rhodium-plated and microbeaded mainplate
Bridges: black rhodium-plated with bevelled edges, Côtes de Genève with 1.5mm stripes, central openworked bridge with black PVD coating, 5N gold-plated engraving Tungsten micro-rotor with laser-engraved concentric circle pattern
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon cage at 1:30, power reserve at 7:30
Case
“Piccadilly” design, grade 5 polished-brushed titanium
Diameter: 38 mm and 42 mm
Thickness: 12.35 mm
Grooved flared crown with engraved logo
Screw-down case back
Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on dial and case back
Water-resistance: 3 ATM
Dial
Multilayer satin-finished and rhodium-plated dial, grid with positive ultra-violet PVD coating, microbeaded bevelled edges, rhodium-plated microbeaded pockets
Luminescent rhodium-plated heart-shaped hands with blue glow
Minutes flange with light grey Super-LumiNova indices with blue lighting at 5-minutes intervals
Tourbillon cage at 1:30: with topping tool-shaped bridge, rhodium-plated, mirror-polished, with bevelled profiles
Engraved barrel with the inscription “One & Two Openworked – Flying Tourbillon” at 10:00
Satin finish oscillating weight with laser-engraved circles
Power reserve at 7:30, triangular pointer with Super-LumiNova emitting blue glow, light grey and bright red dots for elapsed autonomy indication.
Strap
Black rubber strap with grade 5 titanium pin buckle embellished the Maison’s logo.
In the Chinese zodiac, the Dragon symbolizes strength, luck, and prosperity. As the Year of the Dragon approaches in 2024, several renowned watchmakers have crafted exceptional timepieces to honour this auspicious occasion. Let’s explore nine dragon-themed watches that have captured our attention and earned a coveted spot on our lucky list.
1. IWC Schaffhausen – Portugieser Chronograph Year of the Dragon
The Portugieser Chronograph Year of the Dragon boasts a 41-millimeter stainless steel case, a captivating burgundy dial, and gold-plated hands and appliques. Burgundy, symbolizing the vibrant colour of fire, is a charming shade traditionally used to usher in the Lunar New Year in China, symbolizing longevity and luck. Powering the chronograph is the IWC-manufactured 69355 calibre, a robust and precise mechanical chronograph movement with a classic column-wheel design. A glimpse of the movement through the transparent sapphire case back reveals a standout feature: the gold-plated rotor of the automatic winding system fashioned in the form of a beautifully detailed dragon. Additionally, the case back ring is engraved with “2024 YEAR OF THE DRAGON.”
The Portugieser Chronograph Year of the Dragon comes with two straps: a black calfskin strap and a burgundy rubber strap, allowing the wearer to switch between two distinct looks. Wearing comfort is ensured with a butterfly clasp. Limited to 1000 units, this timepiece captivates with a rotor shaped like a regal dragon, showcased through the transparent sapphire glass case back.
2. Hublot – Spirit of Big Bang Titanium Dragon
Hublot takes on a Chinese trinity: a symbol (eastern Dragon), two ancient art forms (paper cutting and marquetry), and an artist (Chen Fenwan).This exceptional timepiece, limited to a rare 88 pieces, is a captivating embodiment of the ‘Art of Fusion’ and pays homage to the symbolic Year of the Dragon. Hublot, renowned for its innovation and avant-garde approach to watchmaking, collaborates with Chinese artist Chen Fenwan to create a masterpiece that seamlessly blends traditional craftsmanship with contemporary artistry. The dragon motif, expertly crafted by Chen Fenwan, unfolds across the watch’s components — hands, cogs, and screws — arranged in multi-dimensional layers, forming a striking dragon silhouette. Each element is meticulously positioned to create a paper-cut-out representation of this mythical creature. The Dragon’s head, comprised of five layers alternating between hands, wheels, and H-shaped screws, seamlessly extends into its body and scales, which intricately adorn the accompanying strap. Hublot introduces a groundbreaking element — a rubber strap featuring a marquetry design, a first in Hublot’s history.
The Spirit of Big Bang Titanium Dragon, presented in a limited edition of 88 pieces, houses the HUB1710 automatic movement with a power reserve of 50 hours. As an ode to the Chinese New Year, this timepiece not only captures the essence of Hublot’s philosophy — ‘Be First, Unique, and Different’ — but also stands as a testament to the brand’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking and embracing the fusion of art and innovation.
3. Bell & Ross – BR 05 Artline Dragon
This Dragon edition of the BR 05 is not just a watch; it is a celebration of the Year of the Dragon in Chinese astrology. A timepiece that epitomizes contemporary elegance with its fusion of sophisticated design and precision engineering. Powering this exceptional watch is the calibre BR.CAL-321, a mechanical movement with automatic winding, provides a substantial power reserve of 54 hours. The meticulous craftsmanship extends to the watch’s hands, adorned with black lacquer accentuating the Dragon’s distinctive whiskers. Deliberate design choices are evident, with the hour circle strategically positioned on the flange, ensuring that the intricate dragon motif takes centre stage.
A testament to the dedication to artistry and detail, the BR 05’s integrated bracelet and dial undergo a remarkable transformation through an extraordinary laser engraving technique. Each link of the bracelet is individually engraved before assembly, resulting in a seamless and captivating visual experience. The symbolism and craftsmanship embedded in every aspect of the timepiece make it a true collector’s item, blending the precision of watchmaking with the artful execution of design.
4. Ulysse Nardin – Blast Tourbillon Dragon
To mark the Lunar New Year, Ulysse Nardin introduces the Blast Tourbillon Dragon, an innovative creation entwined with the ancient magic of Chinese folklore. This avant-garde timepiece embodies in-house innovations, métiers d’art, and the magic of the Year of the Dragon. The majestic Dragon meets the alluring Pearl, creating a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation. Crafting a 3D dragon seemingly gliding beneath the plains of the gear train and the X structure posed considerable challenges. This intricate endeavour unfolded over a meticulous two-year development process, encompassing the design of a distinctive dial and tailor-made adjustments to the Blast Tourbillon case, bezel, and glass box crystal to accommodate this extraordinary creation seamlessly. Behind the audacious structure of the Dragon and the intricately skeletonized dial lies the Blast Tourbillon’s manufacture movement, Calibre UN-172, a marvel that is as unorthodox as it is ingeniously crafted.
Crafted for those who seek the extraordinary, the Blast Tourbillon Dragon is a limited edition piece that captivates with its unique design and symbolic significance.
5. Vacheron Constantin – Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac: Year of the Dragon
Métiers d’Art, The Legend of the Chinese zodiac – Year of the Dragon limited editions by Vacheron Constantin, stand as captivating tributes to the esteemed astrological symbol. Symbolizing strength, nobility, and success, these two 25-piece editions showcase the fusion of master enamelling and engraving craftsmanship. The painstaking two-year development process involved the intricate sculpting of the gold dial, creating an enchanting depiction of air flows and clouds inspired by traditional Chinese art. The Dragon, a central figure embodying power and luck, is then meticulously hand-engraved against this backdrop. The result is a mesmerizing creation featuring around 300 scales meticulously applied to the Dragon’s body. Adding a spiritual touch, a hand-engraved pearl representing knowledge, wisdom, and abundance completes the scene with finesse.
Each limited edition boasts a unique dial colour achieved through the artistry of the enamelling artisan. The 40 mm-diameter case is crafted in 950 platinum or 18K 5N pink gold, harmonizing with a corresponding Mississipiensis alligator leather strap. The deep blue Grand Feu enamel dial in platinum matches a blue strap, while the pink gold version features a brown Grand Feu enamel dial paired with a tone-on-tone strap.
Underlining Vacheron Constantin’s dedication to artistic expression, the Métiers d’Art collection showcases the self-winding Calibre 2460 G4. This movement, with a hands-free watch face, reveals hours, minutes, days, and dates through four apertures, offering a unique timekeeping experience. The sapphire crystal case-back in platinum or pink gold exposes the meticulous finishing of Calibre 2460 G4, including a 22K gold oscillating weight adorned with the iconic Maltese Cross emblem.
Each watch is a testament to Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to blending traditional craftsmanship with innovative watchmaking technology in the pursuit of artistic excellence.
6. Piaget – Chinese New Year Collection: Dragon and Phoenix
Piaget unveils a new collection to celebrate the Lunar New Year, marking the beginning of a new 12-year cycle in the Chinese Zodiac. Central to the collection are the Altiplano and Emperador models, crafted with great attention to detail and artistry. The Dragon and Phoenix, symbols of masculinity and femininity, strength and power, grace the dials in exquisite enamel and gold-engraved designs.
The artisan Anita Porchet, renowned for her mastery of enamelling, skillfully fashioned the two 38mm Altiplano Zodiac references. Limited to just 38 pieces each, these exquisite timepieces showcase either a dynamic blue Dragon or a resplendent Phoenix adorned with red, pink, and orange hues. Against a backdrop of white and grey mother of pearl, the mythical creatures come to life through the intricate techniques of cloisonné enamelling and gold engraving.
To celebrate Chinese New Year 2024, Jaquet Droz collaborates with the talented artistic director of “The Lord of the Rings” and “The Hobbit,” John Howe, who designed the Dragon for their new automaton. The Imperial Dragon Automaton Red Gold – Cuprite is a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation, reflecting the aesthetic and symbolic codes of Chinese culture. The Dragon’s shape, horns, whiskers, and even the number of fingers follow Chinese painting techniques.
A Dial Steeped in Symbolism: On the dial, clouds symbolize the forces of nature, and every detail adheres to the richness of Chinese artistry. A masterpiece that captures the essence of Chinese New Year celebrations.
8. Arnold & Son – Luna Magna Red Gold “Year of the Dragon”
Arnold & Son marks the Year of the Dragon with the Luna Magna Red Gold “Year of the Dragon,” a limited edition comprising eight pieces. Incorporating fine watchmaking, miniature sculpture, and gemstone craftsmanship, this timepiece features an encounter between a dragon and the moon. The Dragon, sculpted from red gold, coils around the dial with meticulous hand-engraving, creating a celestial spectacle.
Mechanical Excellence and Astronomical Precision:Powered by the A&S1021 calibre, the watch offers a 90-hour power reserve and a regulating organ oscillating at a frequency of 3 Hz. The moon function, accessible via the crown, showcases Arnold & Son’s mastery of astronomical accuracy.
9. Bovet –The Récital 26 Chapter Two Golden Dragon
China’s most significant cultural icon, the Dragon, takes centre stage in Bovet’s masterpiece, the Récital 26 Chapter Two. Far from Western fire-breathing monsters, the Chinese Dragon embodies benevolence and magical powers, symbolizing courage, confidence, and success. Born in the Year of the Dragon, individuals like John Lennon, Bruce Lee, and Martin Luther King Jr. are believed to inherit these remarkable traits. Integrating a solid 18K gold dragon into the award-winning timepiece presented unique challenges for BOVET. Amidst complications like the Hour and Minute domed Dial, World Time Hemispheric Dial, and the patented BOVET flying tourbillon, the Technical Office carefully delineated the Dragon’s space. A commissioned sculptor and in-house hand-engravers worked meticulously, taking 40-50 hours to craft intricate details, including eyes, scales, claws, and whiskers. A fiery-red ruby set into the eye adds a final touch to the hand-engraved sculpture.
Dragons, rooted in mythology and symbolizing unity, trace back over 5,000 years to China’s Neolithic Age. The Year of the Dragon in 2024, from February 10th to January 28th, 2025, is anticipated to bring luck and power. The Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two, featuring Bovet’s patented double-sided flying tourbillon, celebrates the Year of the Dragon with exquisite craftsmanship and mechanical excellence. Limited to 12 pieces worldwide, it reflects the 12 months of the Dragon Year, inviting enthusiasts to dance with the Dragon’s symbolic power.
Embrace the Power of the Dragon in 2024
As the Year of the Dragon unfolds, these exceptional timepieces pay homage to Chinese culture, artistry, and symbolism. From traditional craftsmanship to avant-garde designs, each watch on our lucky list stands as a testament to the fusion of horology and cultural celebration. Whether it’s the precision of IWC Schaffhausen, the boldness of Bell & Ross, or the artistic mastery of Vacheron Constantin, these watches invite you to embrace the power and symbolism of the Dragon in 2024. May the Year of the Dragon bring you prosperity, luck, and the timeless beauty of these remarkable timepieces.
