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LES CABINOTIERS TEMPORIS DUO GRAND COMPLICATION OPENFACE

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To bring together in a wristwatch a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph and a tourbillon regulator is a technical challenge that has rarely been met. In the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface these complications benefit from Vacheron Constantin’s latest technical developments and continuous research into materials. Particular attention has also been paid to the decoration and hand-finishing of Calibre 2757 S, which comprises almost 700 components. This work is revealed through the complex sapphire dial as well as the sapphire back of the 45mm 5N pink gold (750/1000) case. This highly technical timepiece turns mechanical watchmaking into a kinetic art form that measures time.

• A single-piece edition timepiece combining mechanical excellence and aesthetics in the great tradition of the watchmaking complications that have marked the history of the Maison.
• A new open-faced sapphire dial reveals the beauty and complexity of the movement.
• A technical feat of rare complexity, Calibre 2757 S incorporates a single push-piece split-seconds chronograph, a minute repeater and a tourbillon regulator with a spherical hairspring.
• Aesthetically faithful to the Maison’s exacting standards, with fine hand-finishing on all components of the calibre, which is visible beneath an open-faced sapphire dial.

The evolution of age-old know-how

The complications of this new Les Cabinotiers timepiece epitomise the transmission of watchmaking expertise through the generations – a core value of Vacheron Constantin. In 1819, the Maison produced a pocket watch with independent deadbeat seconds and a quarter repeater, one of the first of its kind. The watch incorporated a deadbeat seconds mechanism – a device that had been developed by various watchmakers in the late 18th century as a means of more accurately measuring very small units of time. Designed as an independent mechanism with its own gear train, it enabled the seconds hand to be stopped and restarted independently of the normal timekeeping function and is thus considered to be the forerunner of the chronograph.

The split-seconds chronograph mechanism has two coaxial hands, the second of which can be stopped to calculate an intermediate time before being restarted to catch up with the first. After the system was introduced – first with a single-hand system in 1831, then with the two-hand configuration in 1838 – Vacheron Constantin quickly incorporated these developments into its pocket chronographs.

The Maison’s chiming watches draw on an equally deep history. Minute repeaters – watches that strike the hours, quarters and minutes on demand – have been part of Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking vocabulary for more than two centuries. The first mention of a Vacheron Constantin striking timepiece in the production records is a gold quarter-repeating pocket watch recorded in 1806.

Since then, the Maison has continued to build its expertise in striking and repeating watches. Created in 1827, the first Vacheron Constantin watch with grande and petite sonneries, is an impressive example of this savoir-faire, as are Reference 4261 dating from the early 1940s, which incorporates a minute repeater in a calibre just 3.28 mm thick, and Reference 57260 which counts a grande et petite sonnerie (the former with Westminster chimes), a minute repeater, and an alarm among its 57 complications.

A similar historic evolution applies to the tourbillon. This mechanism, which significantly enhances isochronism by mitigating the effects of gravity, is first mentioned in the Maison’s archives with an order placed in 1901 by a Parisian client for a highly complicated timepiece that was to incorporate such a regulator. Over the decades, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers have continued to develop the tourbillon, notably by developing technical solutions with multiple axes. The Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon Armillaire bi-axial wristwatch with a spherical hairspring and the Les Cabinotiers – The Berkley Grand Complication, featuring a triple-axis tourbillon, are outstanding examples of this expertise.

While the combination of a chronograph and a minute repeater in a movement with a tourbillon regulator has been seen in some remarkable pocket watches, it has remained rare in wristwatches. Vacheron Constantin saw this as an opportunity to create such a piece, in the tradition of the grand complication watches that have made its reputation for 270 years.

Three of Haute Horlogerie’s most emblematic complications, the chronograph, minute repeater and tourbillon are among the most difficult to create, let alone combine. Meeting the challenge, in 2022 the Maison unveiled Calibre 2757 in a single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers watch offering this rare and original combination in a single mechanism.

For the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, the watchmakers of Les Cabinotiers developed a new version of the calibre, with a spherical hairspring to further improve isochronism, and set it in a one-of-a-kind watch that reveals the beauty and complexity of the movement through an open-worked dial.

Horological mastery

The highly technical Calibre 2757 S incorporates 696 components, with the design of the movement, particularly in terms of its chronograph functions, subject to the imperative of performance. Despite its complexity, the watchmakers at Vacheron Constantin have created a movement of great finesse, barely 10.4 mm high and 33.3 mm in diameter, remaining faithful to the principles of elegance that are a signature of the Maison.

When developing the original Calibre 2757, the additional split-seconds chronograph plate was specially designed with an in-depth arrangement of its components to enhance operating efficiency. This optimisation of volumes to ensure the calibre’s thinness, was complemented by the use of new materials. Some of the wheels in the gear train have been made of titanium or electroformed in nickel-phosphorus, with a toothing profile particular to Vacheron Constantin that ensures improved penetration of the gears to prevent the second hands from shaking.

After much research, the chronograph seconds hands were made of aluminium, chosen for its rigid and ultra-light properties. Silicon, another ultra-light material that requires no lubrication, was used for one of the split-seconds levers and its insulator. These savings in component weight and friction reduce the loss of energy amplitude from the barrel. This contributes to a comfortable power reserve of 50 hours with the chronograph engaged, indicated by a display on the back of the watch.

With measurements accurate to 1/5th of a second thanks to the movement’s frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour, elapsed time is indicated on the peripheral minute track by the two central second hands, together with a 30-minute counter positioned at 2 o’clock. Because this function demands extremely high precision, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers opted for a construction with two column-wheels, one devoted to the chronograph and the other to the split-seconds hand.

The chronograph is controlled by a single push-piece at 2 o’clock for the basic functions (start/stop/reset) and by a push-piece at 4 o’clock for the split-seconds (stop/reset). Pressing the latter stops the second hand at an intermediate time while the first hand continues its course. When pressed again, the split-seconds hand instantly joins the first hand in the time countdown.

A centripetal regulator and spherical hairspring

The minute repeater featured in Calibre 2757 S has also benefited from technical developments at Vacheron Constantin. These include an ingenious flying strike governor. This device has two weights shaped so as to act as a brake on the governor’s rotating shaft, thus evening-out the energy released by the repeater’s spring. To achieve this, it uses opposing centrifugal and centripetal forces. When the governor spins, the centrifugal force pivots one end of the weights outwards so that the other end acts as a brake on the central shaft to bring the rotation and the strike to a steady rate.

The governor mechanism, which operates in total silence, regulates both the cadence and duration of the musical sequence so that the notes can be heard distinctly and clearly, with a complete absence of mechanical ‘background noise’. The distinctive feature of this system is its two flyweights with a shape specially designed to generate a kind of ‘motor brake’ by a centripetal force acting on the governor’s rotating shaft. This evens out the energy released by the barrel and regulated by the tourbillon.

Located at 6 o’clock, the tourbillon is fitted with a spherical hairspring, a shape that causes the spring to expand and contract concentrically, thus enhancing isochronism. The distinctive tourbillon cage is inspired by the Maltese cross, the Maison’s emblem. Held in place by a hand-bevelled bridge. the tourbillon performs one complete rotation per minute and a hand mounted on its axis indicates the small seconds.

Technical excellence enhanced by Haute Horlogerie finishes

A transparent sapphire dial is the aesthetic signature of the new Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface. Just 0.5 mm thick, it is distinguished by a highly complex mix of finishes: polished and frosted surfaces alternate on the counters, which are encircled by rings in 5N gold, applied by metallisation on the underside of the sapphire discs; the hour markers are treated with grey NAC and the chronograph markers are engraved and inked. The 30-minute chronograph counter hand and the two chronograph seconds hands are made of PVD-coated aluminium – their olive green colour matched by the green alligator leather strap that attaches the 45mm pink gold case to the wrist.

The sapphire dial and caseback reveal the quality of the hand-finishing on the movement components, highlighting the beauty of this kinetic artwork. Surfaces are, variously, bevelled, polished, satin-finished, grained, circular-grained, engraved and bead-blasted, creating a fascinating play of reflections and light.

Visible through the dial, the sides of the skeletonised bridges are hand-drawn and hand-bevelled and the surfaces are circled. The wheels, with their bevelled spokes, are rolled and polished, a delicate operation that requires special tools when wheels are made of titanium. The metallic colours of the moving parts contrasts with the black NAC coating on the bridges and main plate.

On the reverse side of the movement, the watchmaker has created a distinctive decoration. The surface of the blackened bridges was hollowed out then sandblasted by hand to a very fine grain and edged with a mirror-polished sink. The hand-chamfered sinks for the jewels and screws have also been mirror-polished. The beauty of the movement architecture is amplified by the contrast between the black bridges, their polished borders and the golden tones of the moving parts. The striking governor is engraved with the initials JMV, in homage to Jean-Marc Vacheron, and held by a semi-circular bridge that has been round-polished by hand – the polishing alone requiring eight hours of meticulous work.

Thanks to the meticulous attention to detail dedicated to this calibre, it took twice as long for the finishing of its components as it did to assemble and fit it into the case. As was the case for the 18th-century cabinotiers, a single watchmaker was in charge of the watch, carrying out all of the component finishing, as well as every assembly operation, right down to the adjustment and casing of the calibre. This manner of working is an eloquent testimony to Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to safeguarding the transmission of watchmaking expertise through the generations.

LES CABINOTIERS TEMPORIS DUO GRAND COMPLICATION OPENFACE

Reference 9750C/000R-215C

Calibre
2757 S
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.30 mm diameter, 10.40 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
696 components
61 jewels
NAC finishing
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Off-centre hours and minutes
Small seconds on tourbillon
Chronograph
Split-seconds chronograph
30-minute counter
Minute repeater
Tourbillon
Power reserve on the back of the watch

Case
18K 5N pink gold
45 mm diameter, 16.40 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback

Dial
Sapphire crystal
18K 5N pink gold hours, minutes, and seconds hands
Green-coloured chronograph and split-seconds chronograph hands

Strap
Green Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Buckle
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Box
Les Cabinotiers box
« Les Cabinotiers », « Pièce unique », « AC » hallmark engraved on the caseback

Single-piece edition

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface

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THE FIRST MINUTE REPEATER IN THE OVERSEAS COLLECTION

HAUTE HORLOGERIE PROWESS

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface is the outcome of a long process to meet the challenge of integrating a grand complication mechanism into an elegant case. In addition to a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar, this movement incorporates a minute repeater, a first in the collection. Generally speaking, water resistance is difficult to achieve with minute repeater calibres due to the sliding mechanism in the case-side that activates the repeater. The challenge with this model was to ensure the water-resistance of the Overseas case, while adapting its lines to Calibre 2755 QP. This required a year and a half of research and development and involved a complete redesign of the caseback to create space for the minute repeater mechanism while maintaining the slender curves characteristic of Overseas watches. With a diameter of 44.5 mm and a height of 13.1 mm, the proportions of this new Overseas case deftly balance the collection’s adventurous character with a spirit of elegance.

AN EMBLEMATIC CALIBRE

One of Vacheron Constantin’s emblematic movements, Calibre 2755 QP benefits from developments made for the Tour de l’Île watch presented in 2005 and brings together three major horological complications. With its 602 components contained within a diameter of 33.30 mm, it incorporates a perpetual calendar with date, day, month and leap-year cycle indications. In addition to this calendar mechanism, which requires no correction before 2100 – a non-leap secular year – there is a minute repeater.

To govern the cadence of the repeater mechanism, which strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on demand, the Maison’s watchmakers developed a centripetal regulator, a proprietary device that allows the hammers to be struck at the precise intervals required to obtain the correct musical sequences. Totally silent, this regulator features two centrifugal weights that act as a motor brake on the axis of rotation, smoothing the flow of energy released by the repeater spring.

In keeping with Vacheron Constantin’s attention to detail, particular attention has been paid to the aesthetics of this governing device, which is visible through the sapphire caseback. An arc-shaped bar secures the regulator; crafted in 750/1000 gold its rounded form requires a full day of meticulous hand- polishing. Beneath it, the circular-grained inertia weights are engraved with the initials of Jean-Marc Vacheron, who founded the Maison in 1755.

AN EMBLEMATIC CALIBRE

The same high standards were applied to the finishing of the tourbillon bridges, which involved rounding the convex profile as well as tapering it towards the fixing screws, then hand- polishing each bridge to a perfect shine. Their architecture was also reviewed, particularly on the reverse side, where it has been made more open and visually lighter. This allows full appreciation of the tourbillon’s ballet, which is enhanced by the relatively slow tempo of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz). Commensurate with the complexity of Calibre 2755 QP, the movement finishes also include mirror-polished repeater hammers, bevelled and satin-brushed bridges, circular satin-brushed wheels, and bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève.

A SPORTY AND CONTEMPORARY AESTHETIC

With its grade 5 titanium case and integrated bracelet, the Overseas Grand Complication Openface watch remains true to the spirit of the collection. Its sporty, contemporary character is enhanced by the transparency of the sapphire dial, which reveals the beauty and complexity of the movement. Applied to the transparent sapphire, the 18-carat white gold hour-markers appear to be floating in space, amplifying the airy aesthetic.

To enhance legibility and create a dynamic contrast with the grey and silver tones of the movement components, the circles surrounding each of the time and calendar indications are treated with a blue metallised finish. The surface of each metallised circle is then engraved in white with the various indications – dates, days, months, years and minutes.

Viewed through the sapphire dial the avant-garde spirit of the watch is highlighted by the contrast between the anthracite grey hue of the NAC galvanic treatment on the bridges and the silvery tone of the rhodium-plated wheels. The mix of finishes on the case and bracelet amplifies the contemporary aesthetic with a visually captivating play of light and reflections. On the bezel, sandblasting combines with polishing and satin-brushing – a new signature for titanium-cased models in the Overseas collection. Like the other pieces in the collection, the model’s titanium bracelet, fitted with a comfort system, is interchangeable without tools and two additional straps – one in blue alligator, one in blue rubber – are offered with the watch.

TECHNICAL DATA

OVERSEAS GRAND COMPLICATION OPENFACE

Reference: 6510V/110T-128C

Calibre: 2755 QP
Developed and manufactured by V acheron Constantin
Mechanical manual-winding
33.9 mm diameter, 7.9 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18’000 vibrations/hour)
602 components
45 jewels
NAC finishing
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications: Hours and minutes
Small seconds on tourbillon
Minute repeater
Perpetual calendar (day, date, month, leap year)
Tourbillon
Power reserve on the back of the watch

Case: Titanium grade 5
44.5 mm diameter, 13.1 mm height
T ransparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water resistant tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial: Sapphire crystal with blue display counters
18K white gold (750/1000) hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with blue
Super-Luminova®
18K white gold (750/1000) counter hands

Strap: Titanium grade 5, satin-finished and polished, interchangeable and with comfort-adjustment
system; T wo additional straps, in blue alligator and in blue rubber

Buckle: Titanium grade 5 folding clasp
One additional titanium grade 5 folding clasp, interchangeable and compatible with both
additional straps

L.LEROY MINUTE REPEATER FLYING TOURBILLON

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INSPIRED BY THE HISTORICAL TACT WATCH MADE BY LEROY IN 1810, THE MAISON HAS CREATED THE UNIQUE GRAND COMPLICATION PIECE “L.LEROY MINUTE REPEATER FLYING TOURBILLON”, AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT THE PRESTIGIOUS CELLINI BOUTIQUE IN NEW YORK.

Founded in Paris in 1785 under Charles Leroy, himself the son of watchmaker, L.Leroy has written some of the finest chapters in the history of French watchmaking and chronometry, developing a wealth of technical and inventive treasures for over two centuries.

This human, artistic and industrial adventure is marked by illustrious names including Marie Antoinette, Proust, Matisse, Napoleon, Queen Victoria, Roosevelt, Chopin, Nobel, Bugatti, to mention but a few owners of a watch signed Leroy.

Faithful to its extraordinary and inimitable watchmaking heritage, L.Leroy has created the stunning unique piece “Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon” inspired by a rare ancient pendant tact watch made by Leroy around 1810 for the Prince Emil Maximilian Leopold August of Hesse and which is now part of the prestigious collection of the Patek Philippe Museum.

At that period, when electricity was unknown and luminous hands were not yet invented, this type of watch allowed the time to be read, even in the dark, by touching the hand that moved in the direction of the twelve diamonds on the periphery of the case, acting as indices.

In the 21st century, L.Leroy reinterprets this exquisite timepiece. A challenge that sees the Maison blend, in perfect harmony, its rich historical legacy with the demands of the contemporary era.

Today, the “L.Leroy Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon”, a striking and sophisticated wristwatch which appeals to eyes and ears, enriches the watchmaking selection of Cellini in New York, one of the world’s leading stores that devotes great attention to exclusive high-end watch brands.

A UNIQUE DESIGN AND A SUPERLATIVE MECHANICS

A watch with a very complex construction, both in terms of style and mechanics, which required the highly qualified skills of watchmaking technicians for the development and assembly of its manual winding movement, comprising a flying tourbillon and the minute repeater mechanism. Not forgetting the master engraver and the specialists in top-level finishing.

The case

The case, measuring 43 mm in diameter, is crafted from two metals. The case body, lugs, case back, repeater slide and crown are made of grade 5 titanium while the bezel and cover on the case back are made of PD210 18K palladium white gold.

Completely hand-engraved with a precious floral motif, an operation far from easy on titanium parts given its hardness, it took no less than 120 hours of work by highly skilled master engravers. This delicate art allows these superlative decorations to stand out against the metal, playing with the light.

The transparent case back is protected by the 18K white gold cover which boasts a magnificent engraving that evokes another horological masterpiece from the Maison L.Leroy: the “Leroy 01”.

Awarded the Grand Prix at the Paris World Exhibition in 1900, it’s an impressive pocket watch with 975 components, 27 precise and functional indications including 17 relating directly to the measurement of time, exceptional decorations and engravings. It was considered the most complicated watch in the world until 1989.

The “L.Leroy Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon” is complemented by an integrated aquamarine strap in soft calfskin. It fastens to the wrist with a round folding clasp in 18K white gold, bearing the brand’s interlaced double “L” logo. In perfect harmony with the case, it is also engraved by hand.

An eye-catching dial and a stunning calibre

The “L.Leroy Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon” features a unique and out-of-the-ordinary time display for a model from the 2000s, but legitimised by the historical piece from which it takes its inspiration. It has a rotating dial boasting a superlative flinqué soleil decoration with a translucent aquamarine varnish finish. This pattern emanates near a perimeter point, where the rhodium-plated, arrow-shaped, hand-engraved hour hand is fixed and extends its rays around the circumference of the display.

When the dial rotates, the arrow-shaped hand points towards the diamond markers set on the precious hand-engraved white gold bezel and indicates the hour. There are 24 diamonds totalling 1.35 carats, the larger ones mark the hours while the smaller ones indicate the half-hour.

To know the precise time, the minute repeater comes into action. This sophisticated mechanism, reputed to be the queen of complications, is developed on a hand-wound movement, which is also equipped with a flying tourbillon that improves its chronometric performance.
Once the repeater slide, positioned between 8:30 and 9:30, is activated, the time will be audible acoustically thanks to the finely tuned chiming mechanism. The design of the case has been meticulously studied and developed to amplify the different tones of the sound indicating the hours, quarters and minutes emitted by the two gongs struck by the two hammers, visible on the case back.

The powerful “engine” which drives this work of art is a hand-wound in-house calibre, consisting of 321 components, beating at a frequency of 3Hz/ 21.600 vibrations per hour. It comprises the minute repeater mechanism on two gongs, a single barrel guaranteeing 90-hour power reserve and the flying tourbillon which performs a complete rotation in one minute.

Lovers of fine watchmaking mechanics will be able to admire this amazing movement with its single bridge, finely hand-engraved with hand-bevelled edges, by opening the 18K white gold cover on the case back using the discreet push-button at 4 o’clock.

The “L.Leroy Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon” once again testifies to the brand’s technical expertise and its mastery of the art of decoration. A true joy for the lucky collector who, will enrich his collection with a unique and exclusive masterpiece of time.

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS:

L.Leroy Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon
Unique Piece

Movement:
• Manufacture manual-winding movement, minute repeater, flying tourbillon
• Number of components: 321
• Fitting diameter: 30 mm
• Thickness: 8.89 mm
• Number of jewels: 29
• Vibrations per hour: 21.600 / Frequency: 3 Hz
• Variable inertia balance wheel with flat balance-spring
• Swiss lever escapement
• Single barrel
• Unique bridge with engraved floral decoration, hand-bevelled edges, rhodium-plated
• Power reserve: 90-hour
• Minute repeater on two gongs struck by two hammers: hours and quarters hammer on the right / Minutes and quarters hammer on the left (view from the case back)

Tourbillon cage :
– diameter: 13,60 mm
– 76 parts
– complete rotation in 1 minute

Functions:
• Hours and half-hour indication
• Minute-repeater on two gongs for audible hour, quarter and minute indication

Case:
• Materials:
– case body, case back, repeater slide and crown in polished grade 5 titanium
– back cover, bezel and buckle in 18K palladium white gold (PD210)
• Diameter: 43 mm
• Thickness: 13,95mm, including back cover
• Engraved repeater slide between 8:30 and 9:30
• Push-button of the back cover: at 4:00 o’clock
• Decorations and inscriptions:
– Case, bezel and back cover fully hand-engraved
– Back cover: hand-engraved motif on the outside, engraved L.Leroy logo on the inside
– Inscription “Unique piece” on the case back
• Diamond-set bezel: 24 diamonds, quality G +VS, totalling 1.35 carats
• Water resistance: 3 ATM
• Antireflective sapphire crystal glass on dial and case back

Dial:
• Rotating dial with flinqué soleil decoration, translucent aquamarine varnish finish
• Fixed arrow-shaped rhodium plated hour hand, hand-engraved
• Diamond hour markers on the bezel: 12 for the hour indication and 12 smaller ones for the half-hour indication

Strap:
• Aquamarine calf leather strap matching the dial colour
• Round-shaped open worked folding buckle featuring the brand’s interlaced double “L” logo in 18K palladium white gold (PD210), hand-engraved.

Price: USD 370.000,00 excluding taxes

 

 

 

 

 

A TRILOGY OF UNIQUE MINUTE REPEATERS BY CARL F. BUCHERER

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SUPREME RARITY TO MARK THE PASSAGE OF TIME: A TRILOGY OF UNIQUE MINUTE REPEATERS PAYING TRIBUTE TO THE RICH HISTORY OF  ON ITS 135TH ANNIVERSARY.

The Manero Minute Repeater Anniversary is quite simply the pinnacle of CFB’s watchmaking prowess and a powerful expression of the company’s rich history, engineering talent and pioneering spirit. Equally technically ambitious and aesthetically exacting, this trio of watches epitomizes how CFB ’s watchmaking skills and ability have been refined since 1888.

Each watch, limited to one piece only, features CFB’s three highest complications, all peripherally mounted: an automatic winding system, “floating” tourbillon and minute repeater regulator – which controls the speed at which hammers strike melodic gongs to tell the time with sound. Entirely designed, developed and manufactured in-house, the movement took six years to perfect and consists of 617 individual parts.

From a creative perspective, each watch is also one of a kind, demonstrating the highest quality materials and decorative competencies of the in-house artisans, expressed in three dramatically contrasting appearances. As such, they evoke the progressive attitude of a wholly family-owned business that, over three generations and 135 years, has continually pushed the boundaries of watchmaking.

Classical elegance, ultimate precision

The first in the Manero Minute Repeater Anniversary trilogy presents the stunning intricacy of an 18K gold dial finished in a moss green guilloche, hand- milled by experienced artisans using a 200-year-old lathe. It comes in an 18K yellow gold case and is complemented by gold index marks and a matching moss green nubuck leather strap. The result is arguably the most classic watch in the collection, exuding stately, sophisticated elegance.

Contemporary style, flawless details

The second in the series showcases an 18K white gold dial overlaid with light blue mother-of-pearl, the color exactly matching 40 ice blue, baguette-cut sapphires arranged around the bezel – all contained in an 18K white gold case. The dial finish uses naturally occurring white mother-of-pearl – the rarest form – which has been delicately hand-painted from the rear to preserve its translucent and luminous qualities. All the sapphires, chosen for their brilliance and purity, are naturally occurring and naturally colored – that they all match perfectly in cut, color, clarity and luster is itself an exquisite achievement. A hybrid rubber strap helps convey a distinct contemporary style.

Celebratory panache, beautifully colorful

The final watch in the trilogy is characterized by a cascade of color – an 18K rose gold case is framed by a full-spectrum bezel containing 40 baguette-cut gemstones including tsavorites, sapphires and rubies. Again, these naturally occurring, naturally colored gemstones were all chosen for their brilliance, purity and cut. Here, the challenge was to ensure the smoothest transition between colors to create an incredible rainbow effect, and to ensure the gemstone index marks match perfectly with the corresponding gemstone on the bezel. A black sunray dial and hybrid rubber strap make the colors shine in an unashamedly bold, free-spirited and celebratory design.

Collectively, these three timepieces characterize CFB’s exceptional technical proficiency, refined over generations, as well as its evolving sense of style. The trilogy is just as representative of the brand’s origins in 1888 as it is with the ever- more colorful, genderless collection of 2023 that is redefining CBF for a new generation of watch aficionados.

CFB’s most complex movement

At the heart of all three watches is the impressive CFB MR3000 caliber movement. Each one takes the most experienced watchmakers many weeks to assemble, complicated by the fact that assembly itself can distort its delicate parts. The 33- jewel movement was patented in 2021 and is a COSC-certified chronometer.

It owes its complexity to three peripherally mounted technologies: these minimize the thickness of CFB’s watch cases, despite the additional complications, and maximize the view of the movement through case backs.

First is an automatic winding system, featuring a bi-directional oscillating, 18K gold weight. Next comes a “floating” tourbillon cage, neither mounted in the movement’s main plate nor attached to overlying bridges but supported peripherally and appearing to float in space. CFB’s tourbillons are displayed in a distinctive style at 12 o’clock, rather than 6 o’clock.

Finally, a peripherally mounted minute repeater regulator controls when hammers strike two gongs to sound hours, quarter hours and minutes. Unlike most such mechanisms, CFB’s components are visible in the dial: the regulator at 6 o’clock; the hammers at the base; and the circular gongs running around the inside edge of the case. Arranging these components in such a fashion was both a bold design decision and a feat of micro-engineering – not least as the company’s designers and watchmakers had to work closely with acoustic specialists to ensure the case and gongs formed the perfect sound chamber. One final detail: a space between the gongs can be engraved, perhaps to signify how the wearer intends to enjoy #ExploringTime.

 Facts and Figures Manero Minute Repeater Anniversary Edition

 

Reference:  00.10925.01.93.01

Movement: Automatic, manufacture caliber CFB MR3000, chronometer COSC, oscillating weight made of 18K gold, power reserve 65 hours

Functions: Minute repeater with two gongs, floating tourbillon, hour, minute, small seconds on tourbillon cage, stop-second, protection function for the mechanism

Case: 18K yellow gold, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back with sapphire crystal and anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 1 bar (10 m)

Dial: 18K yellow gold with moss green hand-made guilloche pattern, 18K gold marks

Hands: 18K gold

Strap: Moss green nubuck leather, 18K yellow gold pin-lock folding clasp

Limitation:  Unique piece

 

Reference:  00.10925.02.83.11

Movement: Automatic, manufacture caliber CFB MR3000, chronometer COSC, oscillating weight made of 18K gold with blue coating, power reserve 65 hours

Functions: Minute repeater with two gongs, floating tourbillon, hour, minute, small seconds on tourbillon cage, stop-second, protection function for the mechanism

Case: 18K white gold, bezel set with 40 ice blue baguette cut 4.3 ct. sapphires, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back with sapphire crystal and anti-reflective coating on both sides, water- resistant to 1 bar (10 m)

Dial: 18K white gold with light ice blue mother-of-pearl, 18K gold index marks

Hands: 18K gold

Strap: Blue hybrid rubber strap with “textile” texture and quick release system, 18K white gold pin-lock folding clasp

Limitation: Unique piece

 

Reference:  00.10925.03.39.11

Movement: Automatic, manufacture caliber CFB MR3000, chronometer COSC, oscillating weight made of 18K gold, power reserve 65 hours

Functions: Minute repeater with two gongs, floating tourbillon, hour, minute, small seconds on tourbillon cage, stop-second, protection function for the mechanism

Case: 18K rose gold, bezel set with 40 baguette cut 3.9 ct. tsavorites, sapphires and rubies in rainbow colors, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back with sapphire crystal and anti-reflective coating on both sides, water-resistant to 1 bar (10 m)

Dial: 18K rose gold with black sunray finish, 8 baguette cut 0.3 ct. tsavorites and sapphires in rainbow colors

Hands: 18K gold

Strap: Black hybrid rubber strap with ‘textile’ texture and quick release system, 18K rose gold pin-lock folding clasp

Limitation: Unique piece

For further information, please contact:

Raphaela Bodmer, Global Head of PR, Digital Marketing, and Communications Tel.: +41 (0)41 369 73 58

Mobile: +41 (0)79 581 28 99

E-mail:  raphaela.bodmer@carl-f-bucherer.com

About Carl F. Bucherer

Carl F. Bucherer has been crafting watches since 1888 and is internationally renowned for its quality, innovation, and pioneering spirit. CFB is one of only a few remaining independent, family-owned historic Swiss watch manufacturers and is currently led by third-generation family member Jörg G. Bucherer. The brand’s watches continue to evolve, combining contemporary style and cutting-edge materials with the utmost precision and outstanding functionality.

Every CFB timepiece is conceptualized, developed and hand-assembled at CFB’s production facilities in Switzerland, with many watches powered by CFB’s own movements, all designed and built entirely in-house. The brand is also the market leader in peripheral technology, having patented not only a peripheral winding system, but also a floating tourbillon in a peripherally supported cage and a peripherally guided minute repeater regulator. Its individualization business, the CFB Mastery Lab, represents the height of ingenuity and inventiveness, dedicated to creating truly one-of-a-kind watches.

Since the very start, CFB has adopted an international mindset and a forward-looking attitude, exploring time through the perspectives of watch aficionados everywhere. Today, it showcases its expertise, refined over generations, with a major retail presence spanning four continents. This global network continually reminds the world what remains so special about the craft of Swiss watchmaking.

Carl F. Bucherer – Exploring time

Website: carl-f-bucherer.com/en

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