The Ref. 5270 has long stood among the finest perpetual calendar chronographs ever produced by Patek Philippe. Now, with the introduction of the 5270P-016, the manufacture expands the family into a trio of striking platinum references, each sharing the same exceptional mechanics while expressing a unique character through colour.
At their core, the 5270P-015, 5270P-016, and 5270P-017 are identical masterpieces. Each is housed in a platinum case featuring the signature concave bezel and elegant two-tier lugs. Each is powered by the manually wound CH 29-535 PS Q calibre, combining a traditional column-wheel chronograph with a perpetual calendar enhanced by six patented chronograph innovations. And each retains the beautifully balanced dial layout that has become synonymous with the Ref. 5270.
Where they differ is in personality.
5270P-015: Understated Sophistication
The 5270P-015 pairs its platinum case with a sunburst charcoal grey lacquered dial that fades into a black-gradient rim. Combined with a black composite strap featuring cream-coloured stitching, it delivers the most understated and versatile expression of the collection.
The monochromatic palette gives the watch a contemporary, almost architectural presence, appealing to collectors who appreciate quiet elegance over visual drama.
5270P-016: The Modern Classic
The newly introduced 5270P-016 brings a vibrant blue lacquered dial into the collection, again framed by a subtle black-gradient edge. Blue stitching on the textured black composite strap perfectly complements the dial, creating a harmonious balance between sportiness and refinement.
Blue has become one of modern watchmaking’s most sought-after dial colours, yet Patek Philippe approaches it with remarkable restraint. The result is a watch that feels contemporary without chasing trends, allowing the legendary perpetual calendar chronograph to remain the true focal point.
5270P-017: A Bold Statement
For collectors seeking something more expressive, the 5270P-017 introduces a rich red lacquered dial with the same black-gradient finish. Paired with matching red stitching on the composite strap, it is undoubtedly the most daring interpretation of the trio.
While bold in appearance, the carefully executed lacquer finish and balanced dial architecture ensure that the watch remains unmistakably Patek Philippe, blending confidence with timeless elegance.
One Legendary Movement, Three Different Expressions
Across all three references, the familiar perpetual calendar display remains perfectly organised. The day and month appear through twin in-line apertures at 12 o’clock, while the date and moon phases occupy the display at 6 o’clock. White gold dauphine hands and a crisp white tachymeter scale ensure exceptional legibility against each dial colour.
Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the manually wound CH 29-535 PS Q calibre continues to showcase the artistry of traditional Swiss watchmaking through impeccable hand-finishing, refined decoration, and sophisticated engineering.
The EyesOnTime Perspective
With the 5270P-015, 5270P-016, and 5270P-017, Patek Philippe demonstrates how colour can transform the identity of an already iconic watch without altering its mechanical soul.
Whether one prefers the understated elegance of charcoal grey, the timeless appeal of blue, or the bold confidence of red, each reference celebrates the same enduring philosophy: exceptional complications, uncompromising craftsmanship, and design that transcends generations.
Rather than replacing one another, these three platinum references offer collectors three distinct interpretations of one of modern haute horlogerie’s greatest creations.
For more than a decade, the Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture has been one of the brand’s defining creations. Introduced in 2012, it combined an elegant world time complication with an accessible Swiss Manufacture movement, making high-end watchmaking more attainable for collectors. In a market where world time watches often command premium prices, the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture carved out a reputation for offering exceptional value without compromising on craftsmanship.
Now, Frederique Constant has given one of its most celebrated watches its most significant update yet. The latest generation introduces the brand-new Manufacture FC-719 calibre, a refined 40mm case, cleaner date-free dials, a longer 72-hour power reserve, fresh colourways, an interchangeable steel bracelet, and a dazzling gem-set limited edition.
Rather than reinventing an icon, Frederique Constant has carefully refined every aspect of it.
A Modern Evolution of a Horological Favourite
The Classic Worldtimer Manufacture has always stood apart for its elegant simplicity. It delivered one of horology’s most useful complications in an intuitive package, allowing wearers to read all 24 global time zones at a glance.
The newest version remains faithful to that philosophy while introducing meaningful upgrades that improve both aesthetics and everyday usability.
The redesigned collection now features:
New in-house FC-719 Manufacture movement
Extended 72-hour power reserve
Slimmer 40mm case
Streamlined date-free dial
New dial colours
New interchangeable five-link steel bracelet
Limited edition gem-set version with just 88 individually numbered pieces
Each update has been carefully considered, ensuring the watch feels contemporary without losing the timeless appeal that made it a cornerstone of Frederique Constant’s collection.
Introducing the New FC-719 Manufacture Calibre
At the heart of the new Classic Worldtimer Manufacture lies Frederique Constant’s 35th in-house Manufacture movement, the FC-719.
Developed entirely within the Maison’s Geneva workshops, the movement builds upon the reliability of its predecessor while introducing significant technical improvements.
The biggest advancement is its 72-hour power reserve, nearly doubling the previous 38-hour autonomy. This impressive increase comes from a longer mainspring and an optimised alloy composition, all while maintaining a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) for excellent timekeeping performance.
Remarkably, despite housing a larger mainspring, the movement fits inside a more compact 40mm case, showcasing the engineering efficiency behind its redesign.
World Time Made Beautifully Simple
World time complications can often appear intimidating, but Frederique Constant has long believed they should be intuitive enough for everyday use.
The Classic Worldtimer Manufacture simultaneously displays the time across all 24 global time zones, with a two-tone city ring allowing wearers to instantly distinguish between daytime and nighttime regions.
One of the most noticeable changes is the removal of the date display.
Without the date aperture interrupting the dial, the layout feels cleaner, more balanced and significantly easier to read. The result is a dial that highlights the world time complication rather than competing with it.
Whether travelling across continents or simply appreciating the artistry of mechanical watchmaking, the display remains elegant and remarkably practical.
One Crown Controls Everything
One of the defining characteristics of the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture is its incredibly user-friendly operation.
Unlike many complicated watches requiring recessed pushers or correction tools, every function is adjusted through a single crown.
This approach offers several practical advantages:
Faster and simpler adjustments
Fewer mechanical components susceptible to wear
Improved reliability
Enhanced water resistance of 5 ATM
Cleaner case proportions without additional correctors
Sometimes good engineering is less about adding more parts and more about having the restraint to remove them.
Handcrafted Finishing Through and Through
Turning the watch over reveals the FC-719 movement beneath a sapphire crystal caseback.
Frederique Constant continues its commitment to traditional Swiss finishing with decorative techniques that elevate the movement beyond pure functionality.
Highlights include:
Sunburst Côtes de Genève decoration
Circular graining on the bridges
Snailing on the atin-finished oscillating weight
Hand-assembled and individually regulated movement
Every calibre undergoes careful assembly within the Manufacture, where each component is pre-assembled before final adjustment. Precision tasks such as balance spring centring and regulation require microscopic accuracy, ensuring every movement leaves the workshop performing to exacting standards.
A Refined Exterior with Contemporary Appeal
The new generation also introduces a more compact 40mm stainless steel case, offering improved proportions and enhanced wrist comfort.
Its redesigned five-link stainless steel bracelet alternates satin-brushed and polished surfaces, delivering a refined look while remaining suitable for daily wear. The interchangeable system also gives owners additional flexibility to personalise the watch.
Frederique Constant has also refreshed the collection with new dial colours that complement the cleaner, date-free layout while maintaining the Classic Worldtimer’s unmistakable identity.
For collectors seeking something even more exclusive, the Maison introduces a spectacular gem-set edition limited to 88 individually numbered pieces, adding a luxurious interpretation to one of its most recognisable creations.
Swiss Manufacture Watchmaking at Exceptional Value
Frederique Constant has spent nearly four decades pursuing a mission that remains surprisingly rare in modern watchmaking: creating true Swiss Manufacture timepieces while keeping them accessible to enthusiasts.
The new Classic Worldtimer Manufacture embodies that philosophy perfectly.
From the newly developed FC-719 movement and extended power reserve to its simplified operation, refined proportions and elegant finishing, every improvement reflects thoughtful engineering rather than unnecessary complexity.
For seasoned travellers, frequent flyers and collectors alike, it remains one of the most compelling world time watches available today, proving that genuine Manufacture craftsmanship doesn’t always have to come with an unreachable price tag.
Technical Specifications
Movement: Manufacture FC-719 Automatic Functions: Hours, Minutes, World Time (24 Time Zones) Power Reserve: 72 Hours Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 vph) Case Size: 40mm Water Resistance: 5 ATM Bracelet: Interchangeable Five-Link Stainless Steel Bracelet Caseback: Sapphire Crystal Exhibition Special Edition: Gem-set Limited Edition (88 Pieces)
In a world where luxury watches often compete through complex complications and increasingly elaborate dials, the ELKA x Ace “Essence” MD09 takes the opposite approach. It strips away everything that isn’t essential, proving that true elegance often lies in restraint. Inspired by ELKA Watch Co.’s philosophy of “Form Follows Feeling,” the MD09 is a watch designed to be experienced rather than simply read.
A Collaboration Rooted in Minimalism
Created in collaboration with Ace Jewelers, the Serie D “The 36” Essence is a celebration of pure design. Limited to just 50 pieces worldwide, the watch removes traditional hour markers and numerals, allowing the dial itself to become the focal point. Instead of measuring time with visual precision, the MD09 invites the wearer to appreciate time through emotion and simplicity.
The Beauty of an Uninterrupted Blue Dial
The first thing that captures your attention is the stunning sunray blue dial.
Free from indices and numerals, the uninterrupted surface allows light to move effortlessly across the dial, creating changing shades of deep navy and electric blue depending on the viewing angle. The absence of visual clutter gives the watch a calming, almost meditative presence that is increasingly rare in modern watchmaking.
Designed to Feel Natural
Housed in ELKA’s signature 36mm pebble-shaped case, the MD09 reflects the brand’s focus on comfort and organic design. Its smooth contours recall vintage pocket watches, while the compact proportions make it equally suited to both contemporary and classic wrists.
Completing the design is ELKA’s distinctive Chevé-box sapphire crystal, whose generous curvature evokes the charm of vintage acrylic crystals while delivering the scratch resistance expected from modern sapphire.
Less Design. More Emotion.
The MD09 isn’t about displaying technical complexity. It’s about creating an emotional connection with the wearer.
By removing every unnecessary element, ELKA allows the dial, proportions and light to become the watch’s defining features. It’s a reminder that sometimes the most memorable designs are those confident enough to leave space for simplicity.
EyesOnTime’s Take
The ELKA x Ace “Essence” MD09 Blue Minimalist is a refreshing reminder that minimalism doesn’t have to feel empty. Every design choice has a purpose, from the uninterrupted blue dial to the perfectly balanced 36mm case.
For collectors who appreciate independent watchmaking, understated elegance and thoughtful design, the MD09 offers something increasingly rare in today’s market: a watch that whispers instead of shouting.
Luxury watchmaking often celebrates either technical innovation or artistic beauty. With the new ZENITH DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II, the Swiss manufacture proves that the two can coexist beautifully.
Limited to just 25 pieces worldwide, this latest edition of the DEFY Extreme brings together one of the most advanced mechanical chronograph movements in production with one of nature’s most captivating gemstones. The result is a watch that feels equally at home in a collector’s showcase or on the wrist of someone who appreciates cutting-edge engineering.
A Study in Contrasts
At first glance, the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II is impossible to ignore.
Its bold 45mm case combines forged carbon with titanium, creating a lightweight yet incredibly robust construction. Unlike polished metals that reflect light, the matte texture of forged carbon absorbs it, giving the watch a stealth-like presence that perfectly suits the aggressive architecture of the DEFY collection.
Against this dark backdrop, the lapis lazuli chronograph counters become the undeniable focal point.
Every slice of lapis lazuli is naturally unique, with tiny pyrite inclusions shimmering like stars across a deep blue sky. No two watches will ever display exactly the same pattern, making each piece subtly individual.
Powered by the Legendary El Primero 9004
Beneath the openworked dial sits one of ZENITH’s most impressive achievements: the El Primero 9004.
The movement features two completely independent escapements, each designed for a specific purpose.
One escapement beats at 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour) to keep precise time, while the second operates at an extraordinary 50 Hz (360,000 vibrations per hour) exclusively for the chronograph.
This innovative architecture enables the central chronograph hand to complete one full rotation every second, allowing elapsed time to be measured with remarkable precision to 1/100th of a second.
It’s a mechanical spectacle that remains one of the defining features of the DEFY Extreme collection.
Built for Performance, Designed for Everyday Wear
While the movement is undeniably technical, the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II has also been designed with versatility in mind.
The watch is supplied with a black rubber strap featuring a folding clasp, alongside a black high-performance Velcro strap. Thanks to ZENITH’s integrated quick-change strap system, switching between the two requires no tools, making it easy to adapt the watch for different occasions.
The carbon and titanium construction also keeps the substantial 45mm case surprisingly lightweight, while its 20 ATM water resistance ensures it’s ready for active everyday use.
A Collector’s Edition
The DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II isn’t simply another colour variation.
By pairing forged carbon, titanium and natural lapis lazuli with one of the world’s most technically advanced mechanical chronographs, ZENITH has created a watch that celebrates both innovation and individuality.
With only 25 examples available worldwide, this is a timepiece destined for collectors who appreciate rare materials, exceptional engineering and distinctive design.
Technical Specifications
Reference: 10.9102.9004/51.I200
Limited Edition: 25 pieces
Case: 45mm Carbon & Titanium
Movement: El Primero 9004
Chronograph Accuracy: 1/100th of a second
Frequency: 5 Hz timekeeping / 50 Hz chronograph
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Water Resistance: 20 ATM
Dial: Openworked with natural lapis lazuli counters
Straps: Black rubber strap and black Velcro strap with interchangeable system
Final Thoughts
The DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II demonstrates that modern watchmaking isn’t only about improving performance. It’s also about creating emotion through materials, craftsmanship and thoughtful design.
Its forged carbon case speaks to contemporary engineering, while the natural beauty of lapis lazuli adds warmth and individuality. Combined with the remarkable El Primero 9004 movement capable of measuring time to 1/100th of a second, this limited edition showcases exactly what makes ZENITH one of the industry’s most innovative watchmakers.
For collectors seeking something that blends mechanical excellence with unmistakable character, the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II stands out as one of the most compelling releases of the year.
With the launch of the Royale Paris Chrono, Pequignet Manufacture opens an important new chapter in its history. Presented as the Maison’s first chronograph, this new creation is the result of several years of development and reflects the brand’s commitment to mechanical innovation, timeless design, and French watchmaking excellence.
Building on the success of its manufacture calibres, Pequignet has developed the Calibre Initial® Chronograph, bringing one of watchmaking’s most celebrated complications into the Royale Paris collection for the very first time.
The result is a chronograph that combines technical sophistication with the refined aesthetics that have become synonymous with modern Pequignet watchmaking.
The First Chronograph in the Royale Paris Collection
The Royale Paris Chrono represents a significant milestone for Pequignet as the first chronograph ever introduced within the Royale Paris collection.
While remaining faithful to the design language of the collection, the watch introduces a new level of functionality through a thoughtfully executed bi-compax chronograph display.
Available with either blue or red chronograph counters on an opaline dial, the Royale Paris Chrono delivers a contemporary interpretation of a classic complication while preserving the elegance expected from the collection.
The dial displays:
Small seconds at 3 o’clock
30-minute chronograph counter at 9 o’clock
The layout offers excellent legibility while maintaining visual balance.
Distinctive Royale Paris Design
The Royale Paris Chrono retains the signature features that define the collection.
Its stainless steel case features Pequignet’s distinctive attached lugs, creating a strong architectural identity and a refined presence on the wrist.
A more sculpted profile introduces a concave, gouge-shaped cut-out that extends around the dial, creating visual depth and reinforcing the watch’s contemporary character.
The result is a chronograph that feels elegant rather than overtly sporty, making it suitable for both formal and everyday wear.
The Calibre Initial® Chronograph
Powering the watch is the new Calibre Initial® Chronograph, the fifth movement developed by Pequignet Manufacture.
The movement is based on the Calibre Initial® architecture and incorporates a newly developed chronograph mechanism. To bring this complication to life, Pequignet collaborated with a renowned Swiss specialist in high-end watch complications.
This partnership combines French movement development and manufacturing expertise with specialist chronograph know-how, resulting in a movement that reflects the strengths of both traditions.
The Calibre Initial® Chronograph represents an important evolution of Pequignet’s manufacture capabilities and demonstrates the brand’s continued investment in movement development.
A Robust Cam-Operated Chronograph
Rather than using a column-wheel architecture, the Royale Paris Chrono employs a cam-operated chronograph system.
This design delivers crisp and reliable operation while offering excellent resistance to shocks and everyday use. The architecture aligns with the watch’s practical philosophy, prioritising durability and dependable performance.
Another notable technical feature is the offset stem system, which allows the crown and chronograph pushers to align harmoniously along the side of the case, contributing to the watch’s balanced appearance.
French Manufacturing Excellence
True to Pequignet’s manufacturing philosophy, the components used in the Royale Paris Chrono are sourced locally.
As with the Maison’s other manufacture movements, components are sourced within an 80-kilometre radius of the manufacture in Morteau, France. This localised approach reflects Pequignet’s commitment to preserving regional expertise and maintaining close relationships with specialist suppliers.
The Royale Paris Chrono therefore represents not only a technical achievement but also a celebration of contemporary French watchmaking.
Why the Royale Paris Chrono Matters
The luxury chronograph category is dominated by established Swiss names, making the Royale Paris Chrono particularly noteworthy.
It offers collectors:
The first chronograph in the Royale Paris collection
The fifth manufacture movement developed by Pequignet
Distinctive French design language
A locally sourced manufacturing approach
A sophisticated blend of French and Swiss watchmaking expertise
A refined alternative to traditional sports chronographs
For enthusiasts seeking something beyond the mainstream, the Royale Paris Chrono presents a compelling proposition.
Final Thoughts
The Pequignet Royale Paris Chrono is far more than a new model within the collection. It marks the arrival of the Manufacture’s first chronograph and demonstrates the brand’s ability to tackle one of watchmaking’s most iconic complications while remaining true to its French identity.
With its elegant architecture, refined dial execution and new Calibre Initial® Chronograph movement, the Royale Paris Chrono stands as one of the most significant releases in Pequignet’s modern history.
For collectors who appreciate independent watchmaking, technical development and distinctive design, the Royale Paris Chrono is a chronograph well worth discovering.
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic
For the first time in its history, H. Moser & Cie. is venturing into the world of ceramics, opting for this technically demanding material to enhance the flowing lines of its most iconic collection: Streamliner. The cushion case and integrated bracelet are crafted from anthracite grey ceramic with alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces. With neither indices nor logo, the Red fumé Grand Feu enamel dial illuminates this crisp architecture, while the flying tourbillon with double hairspring injects dynamism. With the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic model, the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture underscores its commitment to watchmaking that is forward-looking, precise, masterful and resolutely timeless.
Ceramic: a decisive, self-evident choice. The Streamliner collection marks H. Moser & Cie.’s entry into this new territory. With its cushion case and integrated bracelet made entirely from anthracite grey ceramic, the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramics boldly asserts its personality and character. The material naturally embraces the organic lines of the collection, cultivating the aesthetic without constraining it. The surfaces play with the effects of light in a masterful choreography. Vertical satin finishing on the bracelet, subtle polishing on the edges, circular satin finishing on the case: the characteristic finishes of the Streamliner find in ceramics a demanding medium for expression. They are hand-applied to reveal the depth of the material, its density and colour. An intense, absorbing dark anthracite grey.
Unalterable, lightweight and hypoallergenic, ceramic offers unexpected comfort and a durability suited to everyday use. Pleasant to the touch and almost warm for a mineral material, its most distinctive feature is its absolute stability. Unaffected by time, it is synonymous with mastery and precision. A material defined by its future-oriented expression.
At the heart of this restrained anthracite grey lies a striking contrast: a Red fumé dial of a rare chromatic depth. True to its unique approach, H. Moser & Cie. has reinvented the ancient art of Grand Feu enamelling, bringing it firmly into the modern era. A textured pattern is engraved on a white gold base to create a hammered effect. Two enamel pigments, washed, ground and applied in a gradient, create a vibrant colour generated by successive firings. Never pixellated, always alive. The result is an intense, luminous, almost incandescent Red fumé dial, devoid of indices and logos in line with the brand’s minimalist philosophy.
At 6 o’clock, a one-minute flying tourbillon energises the overall composition. The HMC 805 automatic calibre that drives the watch is equipped with a double hairspring designed and produced in-house by H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company, Precision Engineering AG. This pair of matching hairsprings improves accuracy and isochronism, compensating for the effects of shifts in the centre of gravity when the springs expand. The bridges and main plate, finished in anthracite grey, offer a subtle contrast to the red gold oscillating weight, emphasising the contemporary elegance of the movement.
With the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic model, H. Moser & Cie. is embarking on a new chapter and expanding its creative horizons by incorporating a material as exacting as it is radical into its creative language.
H. Moser & Cie.’s own and unique take on Haute Horlogerie.
Reference 6805-2100, anthracite grey ceramic model, Red fumé dial, integrated bracelet in anthracite grey ceramic
Case
Anthracite grey ceramic
Diameter: 40.0 mm
Height without sapphire crystal: 11.0 mm
Height with sapphire crystal: 12.8 mm
Screw-in crown adorned with an engraved “M”
See-through sapphire crystal case-back
Water-resistant to 12 ATM
Dial
Red fumé Grand Feu enamel with hammered texture
Hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts
Movement
HMC 805 automatic calibre
Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
Height: 5.5 mm
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
Skeletonised oscillating weight in 18-carat red gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo
Power reserve: minimum 3 days
Original double hairspring
One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonised bridge
Anthracite finish with Moser double stripes
Partially skeletonised bridges
Functions
Hours and minutes
Bracelet
Integrated bracelet in anthracite grey ceramic
Folding clasp with three blades, engraved with the Moser logo
With the Delphis Art Deco, Chronoswiss presents a bold reinterpretation of one of its most iconic complications. Inspired by the design language of the Roaring Twenties, this new edition pays tribute to an era defined by artistic freedom, architectural clarity, and a fascination with modern progress.
The Art Deco movement that flourished during the 1920s reshaped the visual culture of its time. From architecture and graphic design to fashion and industrial objects, it introduced a new aesthetic built on geometry, symmetry, and refined contrasts. It was a period where craftsmanship met innovation, and where decorative arts embraced modernity without abandoning tradition.
These values resonate deeply with the philosophy of Chronoswiss today.
With the Delphis Art Deco, the brand translates this spirit into a contemporary mechanical sculpture for the wrist.
A Dial inspired by Art Deco Geometry
At the center of the Delphis Art Deco lies a dial that reflects the architectural elegance of the Art Deco era.
The main dial surface is nickel-coated and laser-structured, creating a subtle three- dimensional texture that plays with light and shadow. Its refined grey tone evokes the metallic elegance and restrained color palettes characteristic of Art Deco design.
Hovering above this surface is the distinctive Delphis display. At 12 o’clock, the jumping hour advances instantly at the top of each hour. At the center, the retrograde minute hand sweeps across the curved scale before snapping back to its starting position. At the lower part of the dial, the small seconds rotate continuously.
For the small seconds, Chronoswiss introduces a baby-blue azur tone, achieved through a unique lacquer on a hand-guilloché base. The intricate guilloché pattern is engraved in- house at the Atelier Lucerne using century-old machines, creating a dynamic texture beneath the Art Deco-inspired white typography.
The gold-plated minute ring adds a warm contrast to the cool grey dial and reinforces the geometric clarity that defines the entire composition.
Modern Presence – Crafted in Lucerne
The 42 mm case of the Delphis Art Deco is crafted from Grade 5 titanium and finished in a matte grey tone. Lightweight yet exceptionally durable, the material lends the watch a modern architectural presence while ensuring comfort on the wrist.
Paired with a black nubuck strap, the piece balances the bold mechanical architecture of the Delphis complication with a refined contemporary aesthetic.
Powering the Delphis Art Deco is the Chronoswiss Manufacture Caliber C.6004, developed together with La Joux-Perret. The automatic movement offers a 55-hour power reserve and is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Inside, traditional finishing techniques meet modern engineering, reflecting the same philosophy that defines the watch itself: heritage craftsmanship expressed through contemporary watchmaking.
A new chapter for an Icon
The Delphis has long been one of the most recognizable complications within the Chronoswiss universe and has remained an icon since its introduction in 1996.
With the Delphis Art Deco, Chronoswiss revisits this emblematic complication through the lens of one of history’s most influential design movements.
A mechanical tribute to the Roaring Twenties – reimagined for the collectors of today.
• Complication: Jumping Hour, Retrograde Minute, Analogue Seconds • Dial: Small Seconds Hand Guilloché
• Movement: Manufacture Caliber C.6004, automatic
• Water Resistance: 10 ATM
Technical Data
Model: Delphis Art Deco, limited to 150 pieces
Reference: CH-1423TM.1-GRGO Titanium Grade 5
Displays: Digital hour at 12 o’clock, retrograde & central minute, analog second at 6 o’clock
Case: Solid 17-piece Titanium Grade 5 case with matte finish, cut and polished, polished bezel with side fluted decorative ring and cambered, double anti-reflective sapphire crystal; screwed and satin- finished case back with sapphire crystal, onion crown, water-resistant to 10 bar, screw-down straps with patented autobloc system
Measurements: Ø 42 mm, height 14.4 mm
Movement: Chronoswiss manufacture caliber C. 6004, automatic
Diameter: Ø33mm
Jewels: 37
Balance: Glucydur, three-legged
Balance spring: Nivarox 1
Fine Adjustment: Via Excenter
Shock protection: Incabloc
Frequency: 4 Hz., 28‘800 A/h (semi-oscillations)
Power reserve: Approx. 55 hours
Special features: Skeletonized rotor made of tungsten, ball bearing; armature, escape wheel and screws polished; bridge with Geneva cut, ruthenium plated
Dial: 3-dimensional construction, upper level lasered with nickel-coating/ digital hour display. Central retrograde minute, analog second at 6 o’clock with hand Guilloché lacquer blue, Minute Ring gold plated.
Hands: Pointer shape “Viking”, aluminium / satinated / blue PVD-coating
Maison Trilobe has never been interested in making conventional watches. Since its debut, the independent French watchmaker has challenged traditional horology with its patented rotating ring display that eliminates conventional hands. With the launch of the Trente-Deux Secret Edition, Trilobe takes its philosophy a step further, transforming personal memories into wearable works of art through a unique combination of astronomy, craftsmanship, and haute horlogerie.
In luxury watchmaking, personalization often means choosing a dial colour, engraving initials, or selecting a bespoke strap. The Maison Trilobe Trente-Deux Secret Edition offers something far more meaningful. Every watch features a custom star map recreating the exact night sky from a date, time, and location chosen by its owner, turning a cherished memory into a permanent celestial signature on the dial.
Whether commemorating a wedding, the birth of a child, an engagement, or a defining life milestone, the Trente-Deux Secret Edition transforms a fleeting moment into a timeless object. It is not merely a luxury watch; it is a deeply personal story told through the language of the stars.
A Truly Unique Luxury Watch
At the heart of the Trente-Deux Secret Edition lies a sophisticated astronomical algorithm capable of recreating the precise appearance of the night sky at any meaningful moment. The system incorporates more than 1,600 constellations and is based on the work of renowned Belgian astronomer Jean Meeus, whose astronomical calculations remain a benchmark in the scientific community.
The algorithm accounts for celestial coordinates, the Earth’s movement around the Sun, and the tilt of its axis to determine the exact position of stars at a specific date, time, and location. As a result, every dial becomes entirely unique, ensuring that no two Secret Edition watches are ever identical.
For collectors, this means owning a timepiece that preserves a personal memory with scientific precision and artistic beauty.
From Celestial Data to Horological Art
Creating a personalized star map dial requires more than advanced calculations. It also demands exceptional craftsmanship.
Each constellation is first engraved onto a dedicated metal plate before being transferred onto the dial using a meticulous pad-printing process. Artisans apply powdered silver ink in successive micro-deposits, gradually building the stars layer by layer. Multiple lacquer applications then create depth and luminosity, giving the impression of celestial bodies floating across the night sky.
The entire process takes place in a controlled clean-room environment, ensuring absolute precision and preserving the purity of the dial. The result is a miniature celestial landscape where technical mastery meets artistic expression.
The Distinctive Trente-Deux Display
The Secret Edition is housed within the Trente-Deux collection, one of Trilobe’s most distinctive creations. Rather than relying on traditional hands, time is displayed through the Maison’s patented system of three rotating rings that indicate hours, minutes, and seconds on a single plane.
This innovative display creates a striking sense of motion while maintaining exceptional legibility. Combined with the personalized star map dial, it reinforces the idea that both time and memories are constantly in motion, yet capable of being preserved.
Powered by the In-House X-Nihilo Calibre
Driving the Trente-Deux Secret Edition is the X-Nihilo calibre, Maison Trilobe’s first in-house movement. Designed, developed, assembled, and regulated entirely in Paris, the movement reflects the brand’s commitment to independent watchmaking and technical excellence.
Technical Specifications
Movement
In-house X-Nihilo calibre
Self-winding mechanical movement
42-hour power reserve
28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz)
34 jewels
218 components
7mm movement thickness
Case
Available in 316L stainless steel or 18k rose gold
Sapphire crystal with multi-layer anti-reflective treatment
Sapphire exhibition caseback
Water-resistant to 50 metres (5 bar)
Display
Patented rotating ring indication for hours, minutes and seconds
No traditional hands
Steel and Rose Gold Interpretations
The Trente-Deux Secret Edition is available in two distinct versions.
The stainless steel model is paired with an integrated steel bracelet, enhancing the contemporary architecture of the case. Meanwhile, the 18k rose gold version introduces a more relaxed elegance through a specially developed blue rubber strap that perfectly complements the sunray blue celestial dial.
Both versions maintain the collection’s refined aesthetic while offering different personalities for collectors seeking either modern versatility or warm sophistication.
More Than a Personalized Watch
The true achievement of the Trente-Deux Secret Edition lies in its ability to merge emotion with engineering. While many luxury watches celebrate mechanical innovation, few create such a direct connection between the wearer and the timepiece itself.
Every star on the dial represents a real celestial position from a specific moment in someone’s life. Every watch becomes a one-of-one creation. In an industry obsessed with limited editions, Trilobe has created something even rarer: a watch that cannot be replicated.
Final Thoughts
The Maison Trilobe Trente-Deux Secret Edition stands as one of the most original personalized luxury watches of 2025. Combining astronomical precision, artisanal craftsmanship, innovative watchmaking, and emotional storytelling, it offers collectors an entirely new way to experience time.
Rather than simply measuring the passing hours, the Trente-Deux Secret Edition preserves a moment forever. And in a world where every second disappears as quickly as it arrives, that may be the most meaningful luxury of all.
When Tudor introduced the Black Bay Ceramic in 2021, it marked a major milestone for the brand. It was the first Tudor to achieve METAS Master Chronometer certification, bringing a new level of technical credibility to the Black Bay collection while introducing a stealth-inspired all-black ceramic aesthetic.
Now, Tudor has refined that concept further with the latest Black Bay Ceramic, a watch that retains its high-performance credentials while introducing one of the most significant design upgrades yet: a full ceramic bracelet.
The result is a watch that feels more cohesive, more technical, and more purpose-built than ever before.
Ceramic Beyond the Case
The Black Bay Ceramic is housed in a 41mm matte black ceramic case that combines contemporary styling with exceptional durability. Ceramic remains one of the most desirable materials in modern sports watchmaking due to its resistance to scratches and its ability to retain its appearance over years of wear.
The case measures 13.6mm thick and is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal. Tudor pairs the ceramic middle case with a black PVD-treated steel screw-down crown and a black PVD-treated steel unidirectional rotating bezel fitted with a black ceramic insert.
Water resistance remains rated to 200 metres, preserving the robust dive-watch capability that defines the Black Bay collection.
The Full Ceramic Bracelet
The defining feature of this latest Black Bay Ceramic is its full ceramic bracelet.
While ceramic cases have become increasingly common across the industry, ceramic bracelets remain considerably more difficult to engineer due to their complexity and manufacturing tolerances. Tudor’s execution creates a seamless extension of the matte black case, giving the watch a striking monochromatic appearance.
A particularly impressive detail is the bracelet’s concealed side-profile construction, which creates a cleaner visual flow across the links while maintaining practical serviceability through screw-fixed components.
The bracelet is secured by a clasp incorporating steel blades, combining durability with long-term structural integrity.
A Charcoal Dial with Subtle Depth
Despite its stealth-focused appearance, the dial offers more nuance than first impressions suggest.
The domed dial features a charcoal sunray finish that interacts dynamically with light, adding depth and texture to the otherwise monochromatic design. Applied hour markers and Tudor’s signature Snowflake hands are filled with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova, ensuring strong low-light legibility.
The Snowflake handset remains one of the most recognisable design signatures within Tudor’s modern catalogue, directly linking the watch to the brand’s historic dive-watch heritage.
The overall execution balances functionality with restraint, avoiding unnecessary colour while maintaining excellent readability.
Master Chronometer Certified Performance
Powering the Black Bay Ceramic is the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U, an automatic movement developed to meet some of the industry’s most demanding performance standards.
The movement is certified as a Master Chronometer by METAS, an independent certification that evaluates the fully assembled watch under real-world operating conditions. Testing covers precision, water resistance, power reserve and resistance to magnetic fields.
Key specifications include:
METAS Master Chronometer certification
Resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss
Approximately 70-hour power reserve
COSC-certified chronometer performance
Silicon balance spring
Variable-inertia balance wheel secured beneath a traversing bridge
Bidirectional automatic winding system
This combination of precision, durability and anti-magnetic performance places the Black Bay Ceramic among the most technically capable watches in its category.
Modern Materials, Traditional Tool-Watch DNA
The Black Bay Ceramic succeeds because it does more than simply apply ceramic to an existing design.
The addition of a full ceramic bracelet transforms the watch’s character, creating a more complete and cohesive interpretation of Tudor’s modern tool-watch philosophy. Combined with Master Chronometer certification, strong anti-magnetic protection and the proven MT5602-U movement, the watch delivers substance alongside its distinctive appearance.
In a market increasingly crowded with ceramic sports watches, the Black Bay Ceramic stands out by offering advanced materials, certified performance and thoughtful engineering within a package that remains true to Tudor’s practical watchmaking ethos.
Technical Specifications
Model: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Reference: M7941A1ACNU-0001
Case Diameter: 41mm
Case Thickness: 13.6mm
Case Material: Matte black ceramic
Bezel: Black PVD-treated steel unidirectional bezel with black ceramic insert
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal
Dial: Charcoal sunray-brushed dial
Hands: Tudor Snowflake hands with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova
Created as a poetic expression of the eternal relationship between the Sun and the Moon, SKYDANCE is one of the most refined feminine creations to emerge from Les Ateliers Louis Moinet in recent years. It is delicate without feeling fragile, technical without appearing complex, and luxurious in a way that feels deeply emotional rather than overtly extravagant.
A Watch Inspired by the Sky
The idea behind SKYDANCE is beautifully simple. The Sun and Moon, two celestial bodies that have guided humanity for centuries, become the central characters of an elegant mechanical performance. While the Moon rests quietly on a disc made from genuine lunar meteorite, the Sun moves continuously across the dial in a graceful sixty-second rotation.
What makes the watch captivating is the way Louis Moinet transforms astronomy into emotion. The dial feels alive. Light shifts across the white mother-of-pearl surface, diamonds shimmer subtly as hour markers, and the aventurine backdrop creates the illusion of a night sky filled with stars. Nothing feels excessive. Every detail has purpose.
The rotating Sun is particularly mesmerising. Instead of relying on dramatic complications, SKYDANCE creates visual theatre through motion and texture. It is the kind of watch that quietly draws attention the longer you look at it.
Rare Materials, Thoughtfully Used
Luxury today is no longer only about precious metals or gem-setting. It is increasingly about craftsmanship, rarity, and storytelling. SKYDANCE understands this perfectly.
The inclusion of Dhofar 457 lunar meteorite immediately gives the piece a sense of authenticity and wonder. This is not decorative imitation but an actual fragment connected to space and time itself. Combined with aventurine, mother-of-pearl, white ceramic, and grade 5 titanium, the watch feels contemporary while still deeply romantic.
At 35.6 mm, the proportions are elegant and wearable. The titanium construction keeps the watch light on the wrist, while the ceramic bezel adds brightness and modernity. Details such as the fleur-de-lys crown and white ceramic cabochons on the lugs reinforce the artisanal nature of the piece without overpowering the design.
A Feminine Watch Without Stereotypes
One of the strongest aspects of SKYDANCE is that it does not rely on clichés often associated with women’s watches. It is not simply a smaller version of an existing model, nor does it depend solely on diamonds to create desirability.
Instead, Louis Moinet approaches femininity through emotion, artistry, and storytelling. The result is a watch that feels intelligent and expressive. It speaks to collectors who appreciate fine watchmaking but also want personality and poetry on the wrist.
The two versions, each limited to just 28 pieces, enhance that exclusivity. One model features a bezel set with six diamonds, while the second elevates the brilliance further with sixty diamonds representing every minute of the hour.
The Movement Behind the Magic
Inside SKYDANCE is the automatic LM58 calibre, operating at 4 Hz with a 42-hour power reserve. While technically impressive, the movement is designed to support the watch’s artistic vision rather than dominate it.
Even the oscillating weight continues the celestial theme, featuring a decorative Sun and Moon motif visible through the sapphire caseback. It is a thoughtful touch that ensures the storytelling continues from every angle.
A Meaningful Year for Louis Moinet
The launch of SKYDANCE arrives during an important period for the maison. In 2026, Louis Moinet celebrates the 210th anniversary of the world’s first chronograph, originally completed in 1816, as well as the 220th anniversary of the historic year 1806, when Louis Moinet created remarkable pieces for figures including Napoléon Bonaparte.
That heritage matters because SKYDANCE does not feel disconnected from the brand’s identity. Even though it is distinctly feminine, it still carries the same fascination with astronomy, mechanics, and artistic craftsmanship that has defined Louis Moinet for generations.
Final Thoughts
SKYDANCE is not designed to shout. Its beauty lies in its restraint, its motion, and the emotion it creates on the wrist. In an industry increasingly driven by louder designs and larger cases, Louis Moinet has chosen to create something softer, more intimate, and ultimately more memorable.
It is a watch that captures the magic of looking up at the night sky and translating that feeling into haute horlogerie. And in doing so, SKYDANCE becomes more than a timepiece. It becomes a small universe of its own.
Model SKYDANCE
LM-132.20.80 with 17 diamonds – limited edition to 28 pieces
LM-132.2D.80 with 71 diamonds – limited edition to 28 pieces
CASE
Material Polished and satin-finished grade 5 titanium, white ceramic bezel
Set with 6 diamonds VVS 0.159 ct (ø 1.90 mm)
Or version with 60 diamonds VVS 0.65 ct
(54 pcs ø 1.20 mm and 6 pcs ø 1.90 mm)
Ceramic cabochons on the lugs
Grade 5 titanium crown with fleur-de-lys and white ceramic ring
Crystal Sapphire crystal | Double-sided anti-reflective coating
Diameter 35.60 mm
Height 12.10 mm
Water resistance 50 metres
DIAL
Dial White mother-of-pearl
11 diamonds VVS 0.12 ct (9 pcs ø 1.20 mm and 2 pcs ø 1.60 mm)
Dhofar 457 lunar meteorite
Black aventurine
Hands Dewdrop hour and minute hands, black nickel with SNL
MOVEMENT
Calibre LM58
Oscillating weight Sun and moon decoration. Four elements: a rhodium-plated base, a polished gold-toned sun, a black PVD disc, and a gold-toned applied moon.
Dimensions Diameter: 26 mm | Height: 5.25 mm
Functions Hours | Minutes
Animation Rotating sun (60 seconds)
Type Self-winding mechanism
Parts 183
Oscillations 28,800 vph
Frequency 4 Hz
Jewels 28
Power reserve 42 hours
STRAP
Material Genuine rubber with a satin texture
Alligator strap available in various colours upon request
Clasp Steel folding clasp
Cartier Didn’t Reinvent the Baignoire. They Refined It Perfectly.
In a time where many watches compete for attention through size and excess, Cartier chose restraint.
And that’s exactly why the new Baignoire Clou de Paris stands out.
The iconic oval silhouette remains untouched, but the addition of the Clou de Paris motif completely changes the watch’s presence. It gives the Baignoire texture, depth, and a sharper jewellery identity while preserving the elegance that has defined it since 1958.
Why This Watch Matters
Cartier Strengthened an Icon Instead of Changing It
The Baignoire has always been one of Cartier’s purest expressions of jewellery watchmaking. Rather than redesigning the case, Cartier focused on elevating what already made it timeless.
That decision makes this release feel confident and mature.
The Clou de Paris Motif Gives the Watch Real Character
The bracelet, case, and dial are entirely finished with the Clou de Paris pattern — a geometric texture deeply rooted in Cartier’s jewellery heritage.
It transforms the watch from minimal to sculptural without losing refinement.
The Craftsmanship Is in the Details
Applying this motif onto an oval-shaped watch required Cartier to carefully reshape the pattern around every curve and surface.
Even the clasp integrates seamlessly into the bracelet, creating a clean uninterrupted flow across the entire piece.
The Finishing Brings the Watch to Life
The hand-polishing process enhances the relief of the motif while allowing the gold to reflect light with softness and precision.
Nothing feels aggressive or overworked. The watch carries quiet presence — which is far more difficult to achieve.
The Diamond Version Feels Like True High Jewellery
Cartier’s diamond-set edition features 171 brilliant-cut diamonds on the case and bracelet, alongside 100 diamonds on the dial.
What makes it impressive is that the diamonds never overpower the design. They work with the geometry of the Clou de Paris motif rather than against it.
Final Thought
The new Baignoire Clou de Paris proves that great luxury design is not about adding more.
It’s about refining proportions, texture, and detail so precisely that the watch feels effortless.
And Cartier continues to do that better than almost anyone else.
There are watches that impress immediately, and then there are watches that become more interesting the longer you look at them. The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date falls into the second category.
At first glance, the watch is visually striking because of the openworked dial and the large tourbillon at 6 o’clock. But after a few moments, the smaller details start standing out — the way the date hand jumps over the tourbillon opening, the depth created by the different layers of the movement, and how restrained the overall design still feels despite everything happening on the dial.
That balance is probably what Jaeger-LeCoultre does best.
The Dial Feels Thought Through
Skeletonised watches can sometimes feel overly technical or difficult to read. That is not the case here.
The dial has enough openness to showcase the mechanics while still maintaining structure and clarity. Crafted from 18K pink gold (750/1000), it features a richly detailed barleycorn guilloché pattern beneath deep blue translucent enamel, adding depth and texture without feeling distracting. The warm tones of the pink gold case further soften the watch’s highly technical appearance, giving it a more refined and approachable character.
The tourbillon naturally becomes the focal point, but it does not dominate the entire watch. Your eyes continue moving across the dial because there are layers everywhere — polished bridges, sharp finishing, open spaces, and different depths that change depending on the light.
Nothing looks decorative for the sake of it. Everything feels placed carefully.
The Jumping Date Is the Best Part
The most satisfying detail on this watch is easily the date display.
Instead of letting the pointer date hand cut across the tourbillon opening, Jaeger-LeCoultre engineered it to jump over the lower section of the dial. When the hand reaches the tourbillon aperture, it instantly advances to the other side.
It is a small mechanical decision, but it changes the experience of the watch completely.
The dial stays cleaner, the tourbillon remains fully visible, and the date complication suddenly becomes something interactive rather than something you ignore. It adds character without trying too hard to do so.
This is the kind of feature that collectors tend to appreciate more over time.
Complicated Without Feeling Heavy
A lot of high-complication watches try to show everything at once. This one does not.
The 24-hour display at 12 o’clock is subtle and useful, especially since it can work as a second time zone indication. The dauphine hands remain clean and easy to read, and the proportions of the case help keep the watch elegant on the wrist.
Even at 42mm, it avoids feeling oversized because the case design is relatively slim and curved.
Most importantly, the watch still feels wearable. That matters because some complicated pieces end up feeling more like demonstrations than actual watches someone would enjoy spending time with.
Calibre 978 Still Holds Up
Inside is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Calibre 978, a movement that has already earned a strong reputation over the years.
What makes this version interesting is how much attention has gone into its presentation. The openworked layout allows you to see far more of the movement architecture, and the finishing is visible from nearly every angle.
You notice the polished edges first, then the brushing, the Geneva stripes, and the way light reflects differently across the bridges. It feels properly handcrafted.
There is also restraint in the finishing. Jaeger-LeCoultre has not overdesigned the movement to make it look aggressive or futuristic. It still feels classic, which suits the Master Grande Tradition collection perfectly.
One of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Strongest Recent Releases
The Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date works because it focuses on execution instead of excess.
The complications make sense, the movement feels cohesive with the design, and the watch avoids becoming visually overwhelming even though there is a lot happening mechanically.
It is also the kind of watch that becomes more enjoyable over time because the appeal is in the details rather than one dramatic feature.
That is probably why this feels like one of the more complete releases from Watches and Wonders 2026 — not because it is the loudest watch in the room, but because every part of it feels considered.
Technicals Specifications
Calibre
In-House Calibre: 978
Movement type
Automatic winding
Thickness
6.45mm
Vibtrations per hour
28800
Frequency (HZ)
4
Power Reserve
45 hours
Functions
Tourbillon, Seconde sur tourbillon, Hour – Minute, 24-hour display, Date a aiguille
Some watch designs tell time. Others become part of fashion history.
The Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas and Bulgari Tubogas creations belong firmly in the latter category. With the Gold & Steel universe, Bvlgari revisits one of its most iconic design signatures — blending precious yellow gold with industrial steel in a way only the Roman maison can.
The result is bold, fluid, sensual, and unmistakably Bulgari.
The Story Behind Tubogas
Tubogas is one of Bulgari’s most recognizable design techniques, inspired by the flexible gas pipes used in industrial and architectural engineering during the early 20th century.
What makes the construction remarkable is its seamless coil-like structure. The bracelet wraps around the wrist with extraordinary flexibility and comfort, achieved without traditional soldering techniques.
Over time, Tubogas evolved from an industrial inspiration into a defining Bulgari aesthetic — transforming rigid metal into something fluid, sculptural, and almost alive.
Today, it remains one of the strongest expressions of the maison’s ability to merge jewellery craftsmanship with watchmaking design.
Gold & Steel: A Perfect Tubogas Combination
The Gold & Steel executions elevate the Tubogas concept even further.
By combining polished stainless steel with warm yellow gold, Bulgari creates dramatic contrast across the flowing coils of the bracelet. The alternating metals amplify the architectural curves while adding depth, texture, and visual rhythm to the design.
The beauty of Tubogas lies in this tension:
Industrial yet luxurious
Bold yet elegant
Vintage-inspired yet thoroughly modern
Rather than feeling like a traditional two-tone watch, the Gold & Steel Tubogas pieces feel like wearable sculpture.
The steel gives the watch everyday versatility and contemporary edge, while gold introduces richness and unmistakable Roman glamour.
The Serpenti Tubogas Identity
Few watches are as instantly recognizable as the Serpenti Tubogas.
Inspired by the serpent — a long-standing symbol of transformation and seduction — the watch coils naturally around the wrist like a living form. The Tubogas bracelet enhances this fluidity, creating an almost organic presence despite the precision of its metal construction.
In Gold & Steel versions, the contrast between polished gold and steel gives the serpent-inspired silhouette even greater presence.
It is jewellery.
It is watchmaking.
It is fashion.
And it remains one of the most iconic creations in modern luxury design.
Why Tubogas Still Feels Contemporary
Many heritage watch designs struggle to remain relevant decades later. Tubogas does the opposite.
Its sculptural form feels perfectly aligned with today’s luxury landscape, where collectors increasingly appreciate strong design identity over traditional conservatism.
The Gold & Steel aesthetic also makes the watch more versatile:
Easier to style daily than full gold
More elevated than pure steel
Distinctive without being excessive
This balance is precisely why mixed-metal luxury watches continue gaining popularity among modern collectors.
But Bvlgari’s interpretation feels different because Tubogas was never designed to follow trends. It was created to challenge conventions from the beginning.
Every curve of the bracelet reflects movement.
Every polished surface catches light differently.
Every coil reinforces the watch’s sculptural identity.
The Gold & Steel Tubogas creations are not minimalist watches designed to disappear.
They are designed to be seen.
And decades after their debut, they remain among the boldest expressions of jewellery-watchmaking ever created.
Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase Spring Blossom: A Poetic Celebration of Haute Couture and Horology
Swiss luxury watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has unveiled the Égérie Moon Phase Spring Blossom, a limited edition timepiece that captures the fleeting beauty of springtime blossoms through artisanal craftsmanship and refined watchmaking. Limited to just 100 pieces worldwide, the new creation combines Haute Horlogerie with the poetic codes of Haute Couture.
Presented in a 37mm 18K 5N pink gold case, the Égérie Moon Phase Spring Blossom features a luminous pink mother-of-pearl dial paired with a hand-painted calfskin strap adorned with delicate floral motifs. The Maison describes this as the first time miniature painting has been applied directly to a watch strap in this manner.
Inspired by the Poetry of Spring
The latest addition to the Égérie collection draws inspiration from the soft pink and white blossoms that define springtime landscapes. The watch embraces an entirely pink palette, with tonal variations enhancing its romantic and feminine aesthetic.
Its moon phase display sits between 1 and 3 o’clock within a diamond-set circular aperture aligned with the winding crown, itself set with a moonstone. Gold moons emerge from mother-of-pearl clouds against a dusky pink sky, adding depth and visual poetry to the composition.
Each piece in the limited edition is subtly unique due to the natural variations of mother-of-pearl and the hand-painted artistry of the strap.
Haute Couture Meets Haute Horlogerie
Since its launch in 2020, the Égérie collection has drawn heavily from the world of Haute Couture, translating textile-inspired details into horological design. Pleated textures on the dial evoke the movement of fabric, while the asymmetrical display and intertwined circles reflect the elegance of couture tailoring.
The Spring Blossom edition deepens this connection through its interchangeable strap system. Alongside the hand-painted calfskin strap, the watch is delivered with two additional options: a shiny raspberry-pink alligator strap and a blush-pink grosgrain fabric strap, each fitted with its own pink gold buckle.
Vacheron Constantin’s Product & Innovation Director, Sandrine Donguy, explained that the project was conceived as a fusion of traditional decorative crafts and modern experimentation. By applying miniature painting to the strap rather than the dial or case, the Maison sought to evolve métiers d’art in new directions while preserving artisanal know-how.
A Floral Legacy Spanning More Than Two Centuries
Flowers have long played a role in Vacheron Constantin’s design language. The Maison traces this botanical inspiration back over 200 years, referencing historical pocket watches and pendant watches embellished with floral engravings, enamel work, pearls, and precious stones.
The influence of Art Nouveau during the early 20th century also played a role in shaping these creations, with organic forms and floral motifs transforming timepieces into wearable works of art.
TECHNICAL DATA
ÉGÉRIE MOON PHASE SPRING BLOSSOM
Reference 8005F/000R – H157
Calibre 1088 L
Manufacture calibre Mechanical, self-winding
30 mm (9’’’) in diameter, 5.03 mm thick
Approximately 40-hour power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
164 components
24 jewels
37 mm in diameter; 10.08 mm thick
Bezel set with 58 diamonds
Crown set with a moonstone
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Pink calfskin watch presentation pouch with printed blossom motif and pink calfskin strap case
Total diamond-setting 94 diamonds, for a total weight of approx. 1.10 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)
Limited and numbered edition of 100 pieces
Available exclusively through Vacheron Constantin boutiques, the Égérie Moon Phase Spring Blossom stands as a poetic expression of femininity, craftsmanship, and the enduring dialogue between Haute Couture and Haute Horlogerie.
The new Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 is one of the most technically fascinating releases from Watches & Wonders 2026 — a Grand Complication that combines astronomical watchmaking with mechanically calculated sunrise and sunset indications.
While most high-complication watches focus on perpetual calendars, tourbillons, or chiming mechanisms, the Celestial collection explores something far rarer: the relationship between time and the cosmos itself.
With its rotating sky chart, sidereal time display, moon phase indication, and newly integrated sunrise and sunset functions, the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 pushes the manufacture deeper into astronomical horology while introducing one of the boldest modern case designs the brand has produced in recent years.
A Different Kind Of Grand Complication
The Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 is not a watch designed around traditional complication hierarchy.
Instead of emphasizing elapsed time, acoustic complications, or calendar programming, the watch visualizes astronomical motion through a continuously rotating celestial display that recreates the visible night sky above Geneva.
At the center of the dial sits a sapphire sky chart displaying the movement of stars and the Milky Way as they appear from Earth. The display rotates according to sidereal time — a system based on Earth’s rotation relative to distant stars rather than solar time.
This is what gives the Celestial collection its unique identity.
It does not simply tell time.
It visualizes the passage of the heavens.
Despite the enormous amount of information displayed, the dial remains surprisingly legible. Patek Philippe avoids clutter by layering indications carefully across rotating discs, peripheral scales, and integrated apertures rather than overwhelming the wearer with traditional sub-dials.
The result feels immersive rather than chaotic.
The New Sunrise And Sunset Complication
What makes the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 especially important within the Grand Complications collection is the addition of sunrise and sunset indications.
Mechanically displaying sunrise and sunset times is considerably more difficult than displaying standard calendar information because those times constantly shift throughout the year based on Earth’s axial tilt and seasonal positioning.
The 6105G-001 calculates those changes mechanically using a dedicated cam-based system calibrated specifically for Geneva’s geographic latitude.
This allows the watch to continuously display changing daylight patterns across the calendar year without requiring electronic assistance.
For collectors of astronomical watches, this represents a significant advancement.
Even more impressive is the way Patek Philippe engineered the adjustment system. Astronomical watches are traditionally difficult to correct because modifying one indication can disrupt the synchronization of others. The Celestial 6105G-001 has been developed to allow time adjustments while maintaining harmony between civil time and astronomical displays.
That engineering discipline is where the watch truly separates itself from many high-complication pieces.
A Bold Modern Case Design
The Celestial 6105G-001 also introduces a noticeably more contemporary aesthetic than many traditional Patek Philippe Grand Complications.
Crafted in white gold and measuring 47mm, the case features an integrated lug structure with engraved detailing along the flanks and a highly architectural profile. It feels more sculptural than classical — a surprising direction for a brand often associated with conservative elegance.
And yet the design works.
Rather than relying on vintage nostalgia, the watch embraces a modern technical identity that complements the complexity of the astronomical display.
The large dimensions are necessary to accommodate the layered sky chart system, but the integrated case construction helps distribute visual weight effectively on the wrist.
This is not a discreet dress complication.
It is a statement piece designed for collectors who appreciate mechanical artistry as much as traditional refinement.
Inside The Caliber 240 C LU CL LCSO
Powering the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 is the self-winding Caliber 240 C LU CL LCSO, an evolved version of the manufacture’s ultra-thin micro-rotor movement architecture.
The movement coordinates multiple astronomical calculations simultaneously, including:
Sidereal time
Rotating sky chart
Lunar orbit
Moon phases
Sunrise indication
Sunset indication
Despite the complexity, the micro-rotor construction allows the movement to remain relatively slim while preserving the elegant proportions expected from a Patek Philippe Grand Complication.
The movement also incorporates the brand’s advanced regulating technologies, including the Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring, helping ensure long-term precision and reliability.
More importantly, the movement demonstrates what Patek Philippe does best: combining extraordinary mechanical complexity with refinement rather than excess.
Nothing about the watch feels unnecessarily theatrical.
Every indication serves a genuine horological purpose.
Why The Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 Matters
Luxury watchmaking in recent years has largely revolved around heritage-inspired designs and incremental updates to established icons.
The Celestial 6105G-001 takes a very different approach.
It is ambitious, unconventional, highly technical, and unapologetically niche.
That is precisely why it stands out.
Rather than revisiting archive references or leaning on nostalgia, Patek Philippe has created a watch that explores new territory within modern astronomical watchmaking while still maintaining the finishing standards and mechanical legitimacy collectors expect from the manufacture.
The watch reminds collectors that innovation in haute horlogerie does not always need to be louder.
Sometimes it simply needs to be smarter.
Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 Specifications
Dial
White gold skeletonized baton-style hands, white varnished.
Case
White gold. Diameter: 47 mm. Thickness: 12.39 mm. Water-resistant to 30m. Solid case back.
Strap
Composite material, black. White gold patented fold-over clasp.
Movement
240 C LU CL LCSO
Self-winding
Celestial
Sunrise and sunset time indications
Summer time/winter time correction
Hours and minutes of mean solar time
Sky chart
Ellipse representing the visible part of the sky for a given latitude
Meridian
Time of meridian passage of Sirius and of the Moon
Angular motion of the Moon
Date by hand
Moon phases
Diameter: 38 mm.
Thickness: 7.93 mm.
Number of parts: 426.
Number of jewels: 51.
Power reserve: min. 38 hours – max. 48 hours.
Winding rotor: 22K gold off-center minirotor.
Balance: Gyromax®.
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations/hour (3 Hz).
Balance spring: Spiromax®.
Distinctive sign: Patek Philippe Seal.
Final Thoughts
The Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 is more than a complicated watch.
It is a mechanical interpretation of astronomical motion — a watch that transforms the changing sky, lunar cycles, and shifting daylight patterns into something wearable through pure mechanical engineering.
That alone makes it remarkable.
But what elevates the watch further is how coherent the entire experience feels. Despite the technical density of the movement and display system, the Celestial remains balanced, refined, and unmistakably Patek Philippe.
In an era where much of luxury watchmaking is driven by familiarity, the 6105G-001 feels refreshingly ambitious.
Few watchmakers approach evolution with the mastery of A. Lange & Söhne. Each variation of the LANGE 1 family holds on to the essence of the original while introducing new layers of refinement. The LANGE 1 DAYMATIC HONEYGOLD is a perfect example of this philosophy—an automatic expression of a modern icon, newly presented in HONEYGOLD®, a warm, exclusive gold alloy reserved for the manufacture’s most exceptional pieces.
This special edition, limited to 250 watches, blends architectural dial design, mechanical sophistication, and precious materiality in a way only Lange can achieve.
A Dial Reimagined: A Mirror Image with Purpose
The LANGE 1 DAYMATIC maintains the visual balance and asymmetry that defined the original LANGE 1—yet it introduces a clever twist. The entire dial layout is reversed, offering a fresh perspective without compromising the fundamental identity of the model.
Where the traditional LANGE 1 carries a power reserve indicator, the DAYMATIC replaces it with a retrograde day-of-week display. This clean and intuitive complication sweeps across the left side of the dial, resetting back to Monday in a crisp retrograde motion at the start of a new week.
To enhance the perception of depth, the watch features for the first time a slightly recessed hour-and-minute circle, adding subtle three-dimensionality to the warm brown 925-silver dial.
HONEYGOLD®: Exclusivity in Material Form
A defining characteristic of this edition is its 750 HONEYGOLD® case—A. Lange & Söhne’s proprietary gold alloy, known for its rich, honey-like glow and heightened hardness compared to conventional 18k gold. It is reserved only for the manufacture’s most exclusive releases, ensuring rarity beyond the limited production number.
Paired with the brown dial, the honey gold case creates a harmonious, understated luxury that feels unmistakably Lange: warm, refined, and confident without excess.
An Automatic Heart: The Essence of the DAYMATIC
Unlike the manually wound LANGE 1, the DAYMATIC is defined by its self-winding movement. While the brand’s website highlights the watch as the automatic counterpart to the LANGE 1, the ethos remains the same: precision, tradition, and horological integrity.
The automatic construction gives the DAYMATIC a different daily rhythm—perfect for collectors who appreciate the LANGE 1 design philosophy but prefer the practicality of a watch that stays powered through regular wear.
Subtle Refinements, Lasting Character
A few design details elevate this edition even further:
A slender bezel emphasizes the elegance and openness of the dial
The large date display—a signature of the LANGE 1—remains prominent at 11 o’clock
Balanced sub-dials maintain legibility and harmony despite the mirrored architecture
The warm brown strap integrates naturally into the overall color palette
These refinements are subtle, yet collectively they give the DAYMATIC a unique identity within the broader LANGE 1 family.
Limited to 250 Pieces
Exclusivity is central to the appeal of the HONEYGOLD series. This LANGE 1 DAYMATIC edition is strictly limited to 250 pieces, making it not only a design milestone for the manufacture but also a collector’s opportunity that will not come again.
The combination of an iconic complication, precious proprietary gold alloy, and limited availability ensures that this model will hold a special place in the lineage of the LANGE 1.
Why the LANGE 1 DAYMATIC HONEYGOLD Matters
This release speaks to A. Lange & Söhne’s ability to evolve an icon without rewriting its identity. It represents:
A new perspective on a legendary dial layout
The debut of honey gold in the DAYMATIC line
The heritage of Glashütte craftsmanship
The practical elegance of automatic operation
A rare, collectible statement piece within the LANGE 1 family
In the world of fine watchmaking, it’s rare for a brand to push forward while holding so steadfastly to tradition. The LANGE 1 DAYMATIC HONEYGOLD achieves exactly that.
The LANGE 1 DAYMATIC HONEYGOLD is a masterclass in subtle innovation. It respects its lineage, introduces meaningful design updates, and stands out with a material exclusive to the manufacture. For collectors seeking a Lange that feels familiar yet refreshingly different, this limited edition offers a compelling, beautifully executed answer.
The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) once again delivered a night filled with craftsmanship, innovation and emotion — and the 2025 edition might just be one of the most diverse lineups we’ve seen in years. From ultra-thin record-breakers to artistic métiers d’art creations and bold independents rewriting the rulebook, this year’s winners represent the very best of watchmaking today.
Here’s a complete breakdown of every winning timepiece from GPHG 2025.
Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix — Breguet
Classique Souscription 2025
Breguet took home the top honour with the Classique Souscription 2025 — a tribute to purity, precision, and the maison’s unmistakable signature aesthetics. Slim, elegant, and rooted deeply in its history, this piece captures the true spirit of high horology.
Chronometry Prize — Zenith
G.F.J. Calibre 135
Zenith impressed with a masterclass in accuracy. The Calibre 135 remains a benchmark in chronometry, and its modern interpretation bridges heritage with contemporary execution in a remarkably refined package.
Horological Revelation Prize — Anton Suhanov
St. Petersburg Easter Egg Tourbillon Clock
Anton Suhanov delivered one of the most poetic creations of the night. His tourbillon clock, shaped like a jewelled Easter egg, blends mechanical virtuosity with Russian artistic heritage. A stunning triumph for independent creators.
Audacity Prize — Fam Al Hut
Möbius
Bold, futuristic and mathematically inspired, the Möbius by Fam Al Hut challenges traditional watchmaking norms. A fluid sculpture for the wrist, it stands out as one of the most daring designs of 2025.
Iconic Watch Prize — Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Audemars Piguet reinforces its legendary status with a Perpetual Calendar that redefines the Royal Oak’s identity. Technical finesse meets architectural beauty in this modern icon.
Mechanical Exception Prize — Greubel Forsey
Nano Foudroyante
Greubel Forsey continues to push boundaries. The Nano Foudroyante integrates cutting-edge mechanisms in a breathtakingly complex layout — a true testament to their pursuit of perfection.
Chronograph Prize — Angelus
Chronographe Télémètre Yellow Gold
Angelus returned to its roots with a stunning yellow-gold chronograph featuring a vintage telemeter scale. A beautiful fusion of heritage and contemporary detailing.
Tourbillon Prize — Bvlgari
Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Bvlgari extends its dominance in ultra-thin watchmaking. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon pushes the limits of engineering with a paper-thin architecture and bold modern design.
Sports Watch Prize — Chopard
Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF
Chopard’s high-frequency Alpine Eagle brings performance, lightness and aesthetics together. The textured dial and 8 Hz movement give this piece a competitive edge.
Men’s Complication Prize — Bovet 1822
Récital 30
The Récital 30 is a sculptural timepiece showcasing Bovet’s layered architecture. It balances elegance, mechanics, and creativity — all in true Bovet style.
Men’s Watch Prize — Urban Jürgensen
UJ-2 Double Wheel Natural Escapement
Urban Jürgensen impressed with an intricate natural escapement system, beautifully integrated into a refined, classical case. A victory for traditional craftsmanship.
Time-Only Watch Prize — Daniel Roth
Extra Plat Rose Gold
A masterclass in minimalism. Daniel Roth’s Extra Plat is slim, warm, and beautifully pure — a watch for those who appreciate understatement done exceptionally well.
Jewellery Watch Prize — Dior Montres
La D de Dior Buisson Couture
Dior delivered a gem-set wonder inspired by haute couture embroidery. A piece designed not just as a watch, but as wearable jewellery art.
Artistic Crafts Prize — Voutilainen
28GML SOUYOU
Voutilainen continues to celebrate artisanal craftsmanship with a piece showcasing exceptional guilloché, finishing, and rich contrasting tones. A connoisseur’s delight.
Ladies’ Complication Prize — Chopard
Imperiale Four Seasons
Chopard’s Imperiale Four Seasons captures the beauty of nature through four poetic interpretations — a feminine masterpiece imbued with symbolism and precision.
Ladies’ Watch Prize — Gérald Genta
Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal
A sculptural creation set with vibrant fire opal, Gérald Genta’s Gentissima Oursin is bold, radiant, and exceptional in form. A standout in women’s watchmaking.
Petite Aiguille Prize — M.A.D. Editions
M.A.D.2 Green
Max Büsser’s M.A.D.2 Green brings fun, bold character and futuristic design — perfectly capturing the spirit of accessible independent watchmaking.
Challenge Watch Prize — Dennison
Natural Stone Tiger Eye In Gold
Dennison offers a warm, organic take on luxury with a rich tiger-eye dial set in gold. Simple, striking, and beautifully executed.
Mechanical Clock Prize — L’Épée 1839 × MB&F
Albatross L’Épée 1839 × MB&F
Part sculpture, part machine — the Albatross showcases L’Épée’s mechanical mastery paired with MB&F’s artistic imagination. A kinetic artwork worthy of a spotlight.
Final Thoughts
GPHG 2025 showcased a brilliant mix of heritage maisons, bold independents and artistic explorations that pushed horology to new heights. Whether through extreme thinness, imaginative architecture or the revival of ancient crafts, this year’s winners prove that watchmaking is more alive, creative and emotional than ever.
Introduced in 2022, the ZENITH DEFY Skyline has rapidly established itself as one of the Manufacture’s contemporary icons. With its bold lines, integrated architecture, and distinctive technical edge, it has since been offered in numerous iterations exploring a wide spectrum of complications and materials. Today, ZENITH elevates the DEFY Skyline to new heights of refinement: for the first time, the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon is crafted entirely in radiant rose gold. Its deep brick-red dial pays direct tribute to the historic ZENITH Manufacture in Le Locle, echoing the distinctive red-and-white brickwork and forging a tangible link between the brand’s heritage and its most cutting-edge creation.
The elevated essence of a contemporary classic
Launched as the modern heir to the original DEFY line of 1969, renowned for its boldness and resilience, the DEFY Skyline represents ZENITH’s vision of an urban timepiece that bridges heritage and innovation. Its angular geometry, strong silhouette and versatile design have made it a cornerstone of the Manufacture’scollections.
Now, with the tourbillon version, the DEFY Skyline appears in full rose gold, rediscovering its sharp facets through the warm glow of the precious metal.
Alternating satin-brushed and polished surfaces accentuate the 41mm case’s geometry, revealing a striking new perspective on its architectural design. As with previous DEFY Skyline Tourbillon editions, the dial is adorned with a mesmerizing pattern of engraved four-pointed stars that radiate outward from the tourbillon aperture at 6 o’clock. For this rose gold interpretation, ZENITH introduces a deep brick-red dial, a chromatic nod to the Manufacture’s historic building in Le Locle, with its distinctive red-and-white brickwork. Rose-gold hands, enhanced with Super-LumiNova, ensure legibility while harmonizing with the case’s luxurious tones, while the oscillating weight also bears the warm glow of gold, further underscoring the watch’s refined character.
At the heart of the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon beats the El Primero 3630 automatic high-frequency calibre. Entirely developed and manufactured in-house, it delivers a 5Hz (36,000 VpH) frequency and a power reserve of 50 hours. The tourbillon carriage, weighing a mere 0.25 grams, epitomizes ZENITH’s mastery of miniaturization and precision. The movement’s architecture echoes the starry geometry of the dial: the surfaces feature a contemporary 3D laser-engraved “côtes de Genève” motif radiating from the tourbillon in a sunray pattern, drawing the eye toward the beating heart of the watch. For the first time in the DEFY Skyline, the oscillating weight is also crafted in rose gold. Shaped as an openworked star, it allows for an unobstructed view of the calibre’s contemporary design.
This exclusive version is delivered on an integrated rose gold H-link bracelet, perfectly tapering from the case to the folding clasp, ensuring exceptional comfort. True to the DEFY Skyline spirit, versatility is key: the timepiece also comes with an additional brick-red rubber strap, perfectly matching the dial’s deep tone. Both can be exchanged effortlessly thanks to ZENITH’s intuitive quick-change system that requires no tools.
The new ZENITH DEFY Skyline Tourbillon is available exclusively through ZENITH boutiques worldwide, as well as a select network of authorized retailers.
DEFY SKYLINE TOURBILLON
Reference: 18.9301.3630/67.I001
Key points: Automatic El Primero Tourbillon. Starry sky dial pattern radiating from the
tourbillon. Screwed-in crown. Full Interchangeable strap system.
Movement: El Primero 3630
Frequency: 36’000 VpH – 5Hz
Power reserve: 50 hours
Functions: Hours & minutes; black tourbillon carriage shaped as the «double Z» star,
completing one rotation every 60 seconds at 6 o’clock
Finishes: Rose-gold openworked star-shaped oscillating weight with satin-brushed
surfaces; 3D laser-engraved “côtes de Genève” pattern radiating from the tourbillon.
Price: 89 900 CHF / 97 400 EUR / 93 300 USD
Material: Rose gold
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Case: 41 mm
Dial: Brick-red sunray-patterned dial adorned with engraved four-pointed stars radiating from the tourbillon
aperture
Hour markers: Faceted with Super-LumiNova SLN C1
Hands: Rose-gold faceted hands with Super-LumiNova SLN C1
Bracelet & Buckle: Integrated rose-gold H-link bracelet with folding clasp. Additional brick-red rubber strap
included. Both equipped with ZENITH’s interchangeable strap system requiring no tools.
In 2025, Patek Philippe introduced a refined addition to its Cubitus collection — the 7128/1R-001 — marrying architectural form with classical horology. With its distinct square-with-softened-edges design and sumptuous rose gold execution, this timepiece commands attention without overstating its presence.
A Design That Speaks Volumes
At first glance, what stands out is the 40 mm diagonal case (corner to corner) sculpted in 18k rose gold. It’s neither oversized nor diminutive — a sweet spot intended to “suit every wrist.” The case surface is treated with alternating vertical satin-brushed and polished finishes, giving depth, subtle contrast, and a tonal tension that keeps the light dancing across its facets.
The corners are softened, and the bracelet integrates seamlessly, blurring the lines between case and strap. The overall silhouette affirms a modern sensibility without abandoning timeless proportions.
Dial & Legibility — Warmth in Brown
The dial is rendered in a sunburst brown hue with a horizontal embossing pattern — itself echoed in the movement’s rotor. Applied rose gold baton hour markers, along with matching hands filled with luminescent material, provide clear legibility even in lower light. A framed date aperture at 3 o’clock provides practicality without overwhelming the visual balance.
Every element is considered, from the consistent motif across surfaces to the proportions between elements — a hallmark of Patek Philippe’s aesthetic discipline.
Movement & Technical Heart
Inside the 7128/1R is the manufacture calibre 26-330 S C — a self-winding movement with sweep seconds, stop-seconds function, and a power reserve of 35 to 45 hours. The movement is just 3.59 mm thick, while the case measures 8.5 mm in overall height.
A signature touch: the rotor is made of 21k gold and decorated with the same horizontal motif that graces the dial — creating a visual link between front and back. And through the sapphire crystal case back, one can admire the movement finishing and architecture — an homage to open craftsmanship.
The movement is built around well-regarded technologies: Gyromax® balance, Spiromax® balance spring, and regulated to 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz).
Bracelet, Comfort & Wearability
The integrated rose gold bracelet shares the same alternation of satin and polished surfaces as the case, continuing the design narrative seamlessly. It closes via a fold-over clasp with a lockable adjustment system, allowing fine tuning of fit.
At just 8.5 mm thick, the overall profile remains slim and comfortable — suitable for daily wear, formal occasions, or even under cuffs.
Practicality & Durability
Though Patek Philippe frames the Cubitus more as a luxury daily than a sports watch, the 7128/1R offers water resistance of 3 bar (≈ 30 m) — enough to withstand casual splashes and everyday exposure. The screw-down crown and robust case construction add security to the design.
The Aesthetic Statement & Market Position
With its warm rose gold exterior and brown dial, the 7128/1R taps into a rich, autumnal palette well suited to both business and evening wear. Its geometric lines and crafted finishes position it as a design statement rather than a mere functional tool.
Final Thoughts
The Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1R-001 is a watch that quietly asserts itself. It is neither overtly sporty nor classically dressy — it lives in a comfortable middle ground, with design ambition and technical integrity married elegantly. For those who appreciate geometry, gold tones, and high watchmaking, it could stand as a signature piece that doesn’t scream but commands respect.
Just ahead of the Mid-Autumn Festival, when the moon is at its brightest, TUDOR unveils its first ever watch with a moon phase complication… and some magic from Jay Chou.
The Moon occupies a special place in Eastern lore: in the Chinese tradition of the Mid-Autumn Festival, it symbolizes togetherness and the unity of family. It was the most fitting occasion to harness the creative energy from TUDOR’s own family, particularly the multi-talented Jay Chou, to create the first ever moon phase watch in the collection.
The subtle sophistication of the 1926 line was the perfect place to start. This line is named after the year when “The Tudor” was first registered as a brand on behalf of Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf. It captures and stays true to TUDOR’s philosophy, representing both beauty and value. Working with TUDOR’s designers, Jay added his magic to the watch, and the result is as magnificent as a resplendent full moon lighting up the night sky. Framed by a perfectly polished bevel, the moon phase indicator appears at 6 o’clock on three brand new dials in 39mm stainless steel cases for the 1926: Blue, Black and Jay’s own, champagne-colour. The moon phase indicator for each dial is distinct, and Jay’s vision for the champagne-colour dial model has come to life in a truly fantastical way, with the phantom moonlight gold disc representing the moon hidden behind an inky black cutout that slowly disappears as the moon waxes and wanes.
In Roman mythology, Luna the goddess personifies the divine beauty and magical mystery of the moon. Most years have 12 full moons that appear once during a lunar cycle lasting roughly 29.5 days, but our calendar doesn’t necessarily sync up perfectly, so some years might see 13 full moons. This is what makes the moon phase complication so mesmerizing – the watch measures our 24-hour days right down to the very second. Meanwhile, it also measures a completely different cycle – the lunar cycle. Not only can you tell the time, but you can also tell when it’s time to… watch out for werewolves.
KEY POINTS
39mm polished case in 316L steel
Domed dials in black, blue and champagne-colour, featuring a moon phase complication at 6 o’clock
Chronometer-grade Swiss self-winding mechanical Calibre T607-9 with moon phase indicator
Polished and satin-brushed bracelet in 316L steel
Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required
TUDOR 1926 IS “BORN TO DARE”
Since its founding in 1926, TUDOR has endeavoured to produce the best possible watches at the best possible price. This mission, bold then as it is now, is inspired by the vision of the brand’s founder Hans Wilsdorf. The inventor of several cornerstones of modern fine watchmaking – wristwatch precision, waterproofness and the self-winding mechanism – Wilsdorf dreamed of devising a watch that was technically perfect while remaining affordable and so created the TUDOR brand to bring his dream alive. The 1926 models form part of this uncompromising heritage, promising their future owners no less than the best possible quality at the best possible price. Made from a block of one of the most robust stainless steels in existence, 316L steel, and
highlighted with touches of satin-brushed rose gold, the case on these models is waterproof to 100 metres (330 feet) thanks to its screw-down crown and case back. The movement, the pinnacle of Swiss watchmaking expertise, is finely decorated despite not being visible, and is adjusted to the highest chronometry standards in the watchmaking industry. The hands and embossed dials are crafted by the most meticulous professionals in the field. Finally, the metal bracelet stands out thanks to the quality of its design, manufacturing and finish. All these things and more come together to produce the famous TUDOR quality, a philosophy summarized by the brand’s signature, “Born To Dare” – always striving to do better.
The 1926 Dial Points to Tudor’s Legacy
The dials of the 1926 model are a fine example of TUDOR’s thorough attention to detail. Domed for a vintage touch, the delicate design points to TUDOR’s origins. These dials have applique even-numbered Arabic numerals between faceted arrow-shaped hour markers. The wealth of detail on the dials of the 1926 line creates a striking and intricate play of light that perfectly complements the sword-shaped hands with their matching colours, and the moon phase indicator is a novel touch that adds a bit of poetry to the watch.
The Tudor Metal Bracelet
The metal bracelet has taken pride of place in TUDOR design from the very beginning. Much more than a mere accessory, it is an integral part of the brand’s aesthetic and practical heritage. The 1926 line naturally has a purpose-made bracelet designed with comfort, refinement and quality in mind. Made up of seven links of varying sizes, it closely follows the curve of the wrist. Its outer links are satin-brushed while those in the middle are polished – a variety of finish that enhances the elegant appearance of the watch. Meticulously assembled in accordance with TUDOR’s longstanding skill in the field, the bracelet is flexible as well as strong.
The Tudor Guarantee
Since its creation by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and in line with his vision of an ideal watchmaking product, TUDOR has never stopped producing the most robust, durable, reliable and precise watches in existence today. Bolstered by this experience, and confident in the knowledge of the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee on all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or any periodic maintenance checks to be performed and is transferable should the watch change ownership during coverage. TUDOR also recommends that its watches should be serviced approximately every 10 years depending on the model and the extent of its use on a day-to-day basis.
REFERENCE 91560 – 67050
CASE
39mm steel case with polished finish
BEZEL
Smooth bezel in steel with polished finish
WINDING CROWN
Steel screw-down winding crown with the TUDOR logo in relief
DIAL
Black, Blue and Champagne-colour satin sun-brushed dial with applied numerals and moon phase indicator
Jaeger-LeCoultre brings contemporary allure to one of its classical, signature complications with a new interpretation of the Master Control Calendar. The grained dial in two shades of grey pays a subtle homage to the sector dials of the mid-20th century, while offering a contemporary interpretation of a classic design. Powered by Calibre 866, the new model will be offered in a limited edition of 500 pieces.
Inspired by two Historic References
Renowned for the triple calendar moon-phase movements that it developed in the 1940s, and that were adopted by several other leading Maisons, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced a new version of the complication in 2020 as part of the relaunched Master Control collection. 50 years after creating its first triple calendar movements, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the Master Control Collection in 1992, naming it after its pioneering ‘1000 Hours Control’ certification. The certification protocol, which set a new standard at the time by testing the entire cased-up watch, has continually evolved in response to technological advances. The Collection also established its own aesthetic codes, defined by technical rigour and stylistic restraint, reinterpreting the classic round watches of the 1950s to create a timeless yet contemporary elegance.
A distinctive new visual approach
The classical triple calendar complication – also known as a complete calendar – shows the day, date, month, and moon-phases, with the days and months in the upper half of the dial, the moon-phase in the lower part and the dates marked around the periphery, indicated by a hand.
Key Facts:
• Contemporary allure: a new two-tone and grained sector dial which creates a distinctive aesthetic, presented in a limited edition of 500 pieces
• A signature complication: inspired by the Maison’s renowned Triple Calendar movements of the 1940s
• A high-performing movement: the Calibre 866 delivers a 70-hour power reserve and a complete calendar, featuring a jumping date hand that ensures an unobstructed view of the moon-phase indication
The two-tone effect of the new grained dial creates a visually compelling and highly legible version of this classical layout, with indications divided into distinct sections defined by alternating shades of light and dark grey. In the lighter-toned centre, the day and month windows are positioned at the top, with black decal indications on white discs. In the lower part of the central area, the moon phase display is contained within the small seconds sub-dial. Set against a blue sky dotted with stars, the polished moon subtly reflects the dark grey hue of the ring displaying the hours. Outside the hour circle, the minutes chapter ring is light grey, while the outermost circle displays the date against a dark grey background. The contrast between the light and dark greys is amplified by the way the grained texture of the dial absorbs and reflects the light differently, according to the shade of grey. Small flashes of red on the date indications around the dial and on the date hand add a discreet touch of contrast. The new dial retains all the other design codes of the Master Control collection: the elongated triangular applied indexes, complemented by Arabic numerals at 12, 3, and 9; the faceted Dauphine hands, polished on one side and brushed on the other; and the finely balanced, classical layout of the indications. Completing the signature aesthetic, the 40 mm Master Control case features refined finishes – polished on the bezel and the top of the lugs, and finely brushed along the sides, exuding a relaxed and understated elegance.
The in-house mechanical movement
Equipped with the Manufacture’s calendar movement Calibre 866, the Master Control Calendar displays hours, minutes, seconds, complete calendar and moon-phase indications. The high-performance selfwinding movement offers a power reserve of 70 hours. Calibre 866 introduces an original and fascinating new variation to the traditional format of dates marked around the outer periphery and indicated by a hand. In homage to the beauty of the moon-phase, the date hand is fitted with a rapid-gliding feature, signalled by red arrows on the date ring. Once a month, between the 15th and the 16th, the red-tipped date hand leaps swiftly across the 90 degrees that separate the two dates, ensuring that the moon-phase display is never obscured. With the Master Control Calendar, Jaeger-LeCoultre builds upon its legacy of innovation and accomplishment in a continuing evolution of technical expertise and creative design. The new dial pays homage to one of the Maison’s signature complications, reimagining its aesthetic for the 21st century.
Technical Characteristics: Master Control Calendar
Case: Stainless steel Dimensions: 40 mm x 10.95 mm Calibre: Self-winding Manufacture Calibre 866 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, month, day, date, moon-phase Power Reserve: 70 hours Dial: Two-tone grey grained Water resistance: 5 bar Strap: Black calfskin, interchangeable Buckle: Interchangeable double folding clasp Reference: Q4148450 Limited Edition: 500 pieces
Trente-Deux Collection: Seven years,
At the crossroad of reason and daring
Seven years after their launch, Trilobe proudly presents the Trente-Deux collection. A symbolic milestone, a new maturity, embodied by a groundbreaking movement: entirely conceived, designed, developed, machined, crafted, decorated, and assembled in Paris, within the new Trilobe Manufacture.
32 is much more than a number. It is the address of their design studio and Parisian workshop. It has also been the internal code name for their latest collection for more than three years of development. It is their anchor, the guiding thread that inspired every step of the creation process.
Today, this collection becomes the manifesto of their independence, their commitment to doing things differently, in Paris, with excellence, inventiveness, and passion. TRENTE-DEUX of the Nuit Fantastique dial are paired with an integrated metal bracelet, opening a new territory of expression.
The X-Nihilo Calibre: Trilobe’s first manufacture movement
Conceived, designed, developed, prototyped, machined, decorated, and assembled entirely in-house, the X-Nihilo is Trilobe’s first Manufacture movement.
Its bold architecture revolves around an open island, creating space and spotlighting an isolated, magnified balance wheel.
The X-Nihilo calibre offers a 42-h power reserve, combining technical excellence with a distinctive aesthetic.
A new steel signature
Case and bracelet are designed as a sophisticated, cohesive whole. The bracelet is shaped to perfectly hug the wrist, with each satin-brushed and beveled link gradually narrowing for a refined and fluid taper. The interlinks, polished to a mirror finish, echo the Trilobe’s pointed shape, creating a signature motif and animating the surface with a subtle play of light.
Structurally, the bracelet alternates links and interlinks in a simple yet refined layout and adjusts smoothly thanks to its flexible construction. Interlinks differ on their visible and internal faces: decorative on the outside, functional on the inside, ensuring overall robustness.
It features a double folding clasp engraved with the Trilobe logo. With no visible push buttons, it operates via a spring blade for clean aesthetics and intuitive handling.
The case is composed of seven individually-finished elements, revealing a sculptural silhouette. It features three chamfered tiers with asymmetrical lateral fins and a beveled mid-case.
The bezel presents a unique design: its profile is fluted, with mirror-polished ridges and matte-finished grooves, enhancing the interplay of contrast and light. Its geometry subtly incorporates the Trilobe motif.
This new architecture directly echoes the design of the crown, which was specially conceived for this collection.
The Trente-Deux collection remains true to Trilobe’s iconic off-center time display, while introducing a completely reimagined dial. A circular chapter ring, both satin-brushed and mirror-polished, echoes the bracelet’s finish and anchors the composition. Its extreme thinness, combined with its large diameter, requires absolute precision in machining to ensure perfect flatness without deformation.
Every detail enhances the movement’s contrasts: fine or raw grainings on the bridges and plates, black polishing on screws and bushing for a sutble finish. Screws and jewels are highlighted with concave, diamond- polished surroundings.
On the surface, the bridges echo the bracelet’s satin finish, while the rhodium- plated gears display a circular brushing aligned with their motion. The oscillating weight combines a sunburst pattern with grain texturing, highlighting both its structure and lightness.
A true hallmark of the brand, these textures interact with the 5N gold treatment, whose warmth and patina will evolve over time.
The openworked oscillating weight made of tungsten reveals the balance wheel, supported by a bridge inspired by traditionnal watchmaking. The tailor-made balance wheel features ftheir chronometric regulation screws for precise adjustment, ensuring long-term stability and accuracy.
Resulting from a singular design approach, the oscillating weight is equipped with a system of safety pins that protect the movement from major shocks, preserving the integrity of both bridges and internal components.
Through the sapphire caseback, the movement appears to float in space: the mirror-polished inner case reflects the movement to create striking depth.
The “Paris – France” engraving on the movement’s bridge uses a typography inspired by vintage Parisian street signs.
Trente-Deux (Sunray Blue) 3201BS
The dial, available in grey or blue and measuring 39.5 mm in diameter, also plays with textures: a matte sunray finish, grained discs for hours and minutes, and a seconds wheel combining azurage with Clous de Paris guilloché.
Trente-Deux (Sunray Grey) 3201GS
TECHNICAL SPECIFICITIES
Case
316L stainless steel case
Composed of 7 individual components
Mirror-polished surfaces alternating with satin-brushed and microblasted finishes
Fluted bezel with mirror-polished ridges and microblasted grooves Sapphire crystal with multi-layer ARDUR anti-reflective coating Fluted push-button crown
Sapphire crystal caseback with anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance: Tested to 5 bar (≈50 meters)
Thickness: 10.15 mm | Diameter: 39.5 mm
Lug-to-lug height: 46.18 mm
Dial
Matte sunray finish, grained discs for hours and minutes, and seconds wheel combining azurage and Clous de Paris guilloché Circular chapter ring with satin-brushed and mirror-polished finish
Warranty
24 months from the date of delivery or handover in person.
Movement – X-Nihilo calibre
In-house movement
Automatic mechanical movement with
oscillating weight
Power reserve: 42 hours
Balance frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour(4Hz) Functional jewels: 34
Total movement components: 218
Movement dimensions
Thickness: 7 mm Diameter: 35.2 mm
Patent
Display concept composed of 3 distinct elements (hours, minutes and seconds), positioned on the same plane as the dial
Functions
Hours, minutes, and seconds indicated via rotating rings and fixed indicators.
Pad-printed numerals
Bracelet
Stainless steel with double folding clasp engraved with the Trilobe logo
Satin-brushed and beveled links
Mirror-polished interlinks
The Fifty Fathoms Tech 45 mm debuts in the permanent collection, with a new interchangeable strap system, expanding its technical repertoire with bold rubber options in classic black, white or vivid orange. These vibrant colors inject a fresh, lifestyle-driven twist into the iconic diver’s instrument, while preserving all its exceptional tool-watch features.
Blancpain’s enduring connection to the Ocean and pioneering spirit runs deep. While firmly rooted in the Maison’s professional diving heritage and unmatched legacy in professional diving timepieces, the new Fifty Fathoms Tech emerges as a thoroughly modern expression of Blancpain’s most famous collection, blending technicity with a new, unexpected dose of style.
Originally conceived as a serious tool watch and diving instrument, the Fifty Fathoms has long been the choice of professional divers, explorers, and underwater photographers. The Tech variant, housed in Grade 23 brushed titanium, embodies that legacy with a bold 45 mm case diameter, a helium escape valve, and a unidirectional 120-click ceramic bezel optimized for use with gloved hands. Its absolute black dial absorbs up to 97% of light – an impressive feat ensuring maximum legibility in murky depths or low-light conditions, while creating a striking contrast with the luminescent block-shaped appliques.
Yet Blancpain’s latest chapter writes a new narrative: the tool watch is going lifestyle. In a significant update for 2025, the Fifty Fathoms Tech introduces a fully interchangeable strap system, empowering wearers to switch styles in seconds, no tools required. Additionally, Blancpain offers straps in multiple lengths, a crucial detail for divers who may wear the watch over a wetsuit, while also making it perfect for everyday wear on a bare wrist.
Color, too, is making waves. Beyond classic black rubber, Blancpain is releasing two new summer-ready hues: a crisp white and a vibrant orange. The latter isn’t just an aesthetic flourish; it matches the Tech’s orange central seconds hand and TECH inscription on the dial, proving that even the most serious diving instruments can embrace personality and fun.
Of course, the Fifty Fathoms Tech retains its mechanical credentials. Powering the watch is the automatic calibre 1315A, a 4 Hz movement widely respected among collectors for its robust 120-hour power reserve, precision timekeeping, and beautifully finished architecture. The sapphire case-back offers a view of the movement’s decorations, underscoring Blancpain’s dedication to Haute Horlogerie even in the Maison’s most utilitarian creations.
In short, the Fifty Fathoms Tech bridges worlds: as capable in the abyss as it is on dry land. It’s a pure diver’s tool, reborn as a polyvalent companion for any occasion – from exploring coral reefs to strolling through a summer cityscape or making a statement far above sea level.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS Fifty Fathoms Tech
Ref. 5029 12B30 94A
Movement: Blancpain Manufacture calibre 1315A Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, helium escape valve Winding: Automatic
Power Reserve: 120 hours (5 days) Dimensions: 33.40 x 5.65 mm
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph) Jewels: 35 Number of components: 227
Case: Grade 23 titanium Crystal and Case Back: Sapphire crystal Water Resistance: 30 bar (300 meters) Diameter: 45.00 mm Thickness: 14.10 mm Lug: Central lugs with interchangeable strap system
Dial: Absolute black Hands: With Super-LumiNova®, orange second hand
Indexes: Luminescent block-shaped appliques
Straps: Integrated rubber straps with pin buckle Tool-free interchangeable strap system Two straps included
Colour options: black, white, and orange Different size options
Since its inception in 1994, the IMPERIALE collection has embodied Chopard’s vision of regal elegance and horological excellence. In 2025, this iconic collection welcomes a new chapter with the introduction of a poetic complication: the IMPERIALE Four Seasons, a timepiece that captures the eternal rhythm of nature through the artistry of watchmaking.
At the heart of this creation lies a rotating disc that completes a full revolution over 365 days, evoking the gentle cycle of the seasons. Crafted in painted textured mother-of-pearl marquetry, this miniature tableau is a moving landscape, shifting subtly with time. The disc is ingeniously indexed to the hour hand — a seamless fusion of mechanical ingenuity and poetic expression.
The dial is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. Its upper half is adorned with ethical 18-carat white gold lace, sculpted into the delicate silhouette of a lotus flower — a recurring motif in the IMPERIALE collection, also echoed in the shape of the crown. Satin-finished gold petals with polished veins create a striking contrast of textures, while the lower dial reveals a painted mother-of-pearl marquetry gradient that evokes the changing hues of the natural world.
The 18-carat white gold case, bezel and crown are adorned with diamonds, enhancing the timepiece’s luminous presence.
Inside this radiant creation beats the L.U.C 96.31-L movement — a self-winding mechanical calibre equipped with the exclusive Four Seasons module. Comprising 227 components, it offers a generous 65-hour power reserve – thanks to Chopard Twin Technology – and is entirely developed and assembled in-house, a testament to Chopard’s vertical integration and horological savoir-faire.
The IMPERIALE Four Seasons is delivered with four interchangeable alligator leather straps, each reflecting the palette of a different season, allowing the wearer to harmonise their timepiece with the world around them.
Issued in a limited edition of 25 pieces, this creation is more than a timepiece – it is a lyrical celebration of time, nature, and Chopard’s enduring artistry.
IMPERIALE
In ethical 18-carat white gold
Exclusively in Chopard boutiques
Case:
Ethical 18 carat white gold
Total diameter 36.00 mm
Thickness 12.10 mm
Water resistance 50 metres
Diamond-set bezel, crown, lugs and lug-covers in ethical 18-carat white gold
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Exhibition back
Movement:
Mechanical self-winding movement L.U.C 96.31-C
Number of components 227
Total diameter 28.40 mm
Thickness 5.55 mm
Number of jewels 36
Frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz)
Power reserve 65 hours
Two barrels – Chopard Twin technology
Winding via a tungsten alloy micro-rotor
Dial and hands:
Dial in ethical 18-carat white gold set with diamonds featuring a rotating disc in textured mother-of-pearl marquetry in seasonal colors
Gilded openworked dagger-shaped hours and minutes hands
Functions and displays:
Central display of the hours and minutes
Four seasons
Strap and buckle:
Seamless alligator leather strap in orange, blue, green or yellow, interchangeable system
Buckle in ethical 18-carat white gold
Ref. 385394-1001 – in ethical 18-carat white gold
Exclusively in Chopard boutiques
A watch might display the time, but this watch makes time melt away. Pack your bags, because we’re going somewhere idyllic.
Wearing a TUDOR has the power to mentally transport you somewhere—and with the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”, that somewhere is warm, the sun is shining, and waves of azure water are gently lapping against shell-dotted white sand beach. A watch can do more than tell time, it can shift your mindset. With a perfectly proportioned 37mm case and a “Lagoon Blue” dial plucked straight from paradise, this is the ideal complement to seasons full of sunsets, sand, and slowing down.
But it’s not only the case size that casts a spell on those who wear the newest Black Bay 54 iteration. It’s also in the magical combination of the sand-textured dial and mirror-polished bezel, not to mention the five-link bracelet that wraps perfectly around your wrist and feels like laying down in a well-worn hammock laced up between two palm trees right where the water meets the sand.
This is the watch that perfectly captures those dreamy vibes of summertime—forever.
KEY POINTS
A sand-textured “Lagoon Blue” dial that’s reminiscent of the sea, sun, and the slow life.
A mirror-polished bezel that reflects your sun-soaked surroundings, like big blue skies and endless horizons.
“Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material.
Manufacture Calibre MT5400, COSC-certified with a silicon balance spring, 70-hour power reserve.
A five-link bracelet with polished centre links, like glittering light on water all the way to the horizon.
Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required
DIVING INTO THE PAST
The Black Bay line was conceived with the past in mind. Honouring the important designs that laid the foundation of TUDOR’s unique aesthetic is of the highest importance. While the Black Bay line has always incorporated signature elements of past TUDOR dive watches, the Black Bay 54 is perhaps the most true-to-form Black Bay to have been created thus far. The Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7922 is a formidable candidate to draw inspiration from, as it was known to have been evaluated and consequently adopted by the French and US Navies and widely used by diving professionals. The earliest iterations of the 7922 used a “small crown” and eschewed the later emblematic red triangle at 12 o’clock for a cleaner, more uniform aesthetic. The Black Bay 54 follows this tradition. In fact, the Black Bay 54 recalls a number of small design details that make a big difference. Take the hands for instance, in addition to proportional adjustments, they’re pinched at the base, the same way they appeared in 1954. The bezel edge has been redesigned as well, with a modernized take on the ergonomic pattern of the 7922. Of course, the Black Bay 54 still features thoroughly modern touches, like a subtle sand-textured dial and a “T-fit” clasp for the perfect fit. And of course, the cutting-edge Manufacture Calibre MT5400.
THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5400
The Manufacture Calibre MT5400, with which the Black Bay 54 is equipped, displays hour, minute and second functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres: Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.
Its build is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point anchoring. This system, together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, enables the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 to function within a tolerance range of 6 seconds (-2/+4) tested on a fully assembled watch.
Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is “weekend-proof”; that is to say, it has a 70-hour power reserve, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it. Even if you need a weekend away, your watch does not.
5-LINK STEEL BRACELET
The Black Bay 54 is fitted with an entirely satin-brushed 5-link steel bracelet, complete with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp equipped with a system for rapid length adjustment. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical system allows wearers to carry outa fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.
THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY
The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its unprotected crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.
The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together over seventy years of TUDOR dive watches, whilst at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present. It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.
THE TUDOR MANUFACTURE
Every TUDOR watch is assembled and fully tested to TUDOR’s superior standards at the new TUDOR Manufacture located in Le Locle, Switzerland. This new state-of-the-art facility, bringing together the know-how of watchmakers with the best in production management and automated testing systems, was completed in 2021 after three years of construction. All decked out in TUDOR red, the Manufacture spans over four levels totalling 5,500 square meters and is physically and visually connected to the neighbouring Kenissi Manufacture, the TUDOR movement production facility founded in 2016. With Kenissi and a network of TUDOR-owned affiliates, the brand has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibres. As a consequence, TUDOR now fully masters the manufacturing of strategic components and can guarantee their quality.
THE TUDOR GUARANTEE
Since its creation by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and in line with his vision of an ideal watchmaking product, TUDOR has never stopped producing the most robust, durable, reliable and precise watches in existence today. Bolstered by this experience, and confident in the knowledge of the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee on all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or any periodic maintenance checks to be performed and is transferable should the watch change ownership during coverage. TUDOR also recommends that its watches should be serviced approximately every 10 years depending on the model and the extent of its use on a day-to-day basis.
REFERENCE 79000
CASE
37mm stainless steel case with polished and satin finish
BEZEL
60-minute unidirectional bezel in stainless steel with mirror-polished steel insert devoid of minute graduations
WINDING CROWN
Stainless steel screw-down crown with the TUDOR rose in relief
DIAL
Lagoon Blue, domed and textured
CRYSTAL
Domed sapphire crystal
WATERPROOFNESS
Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)
BRACELET
Five-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, with TUDOR “T-fit” clasp
MOVEMENT
Manufacture Calibre MT5400 (COSC)
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
PRECISION
Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute)
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes and seconds hands at the centre
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
With an impressive career spanning over 20 years, Erol Baliyan stands as a prominent figure in the world of luxury watchmaking. As the CEO of Franck Muller for the Middle East, Africa, and India, Erol has played a pivotal role in driving the brand’s regional growth and influence. He joined Franck Muller in 2003, bringing with him extensive expertise across a wide array of disciplines—including retail, distribution, logistics, finance, sales, and design—which together have shaped his holistic leadership style.
Erol opens up about his journey from his early days in the industry to his instrumental role in establishing the Dubai-based distribution hub, which today manages operations in more than 15 countries. Under his guidance, the brand has not only expanded its footprint but also deepened its presence in strategically vital markets.
Known for his pioneering mindset, Erol Baliyan has been a catalyst for innovation within Franck Muller. He holds a patent for integrating advanced technologies into traditional watchmaking, marking a significant breakthrough that aligns perfectly with the brand’s reputation for mechanical ingenuity and bold design. His efforts have redefined how Franck Muller approaches craftsmanship and technological fusion in haute horlogerie.
Beyond his professional achievements, Erol’s academic foundation adds further depth to his strategic approach. He holds a Bachelor’s degree in Econometrics from Marmara University and a Master of Science in International Management from the University of Exeter, credentials that reflect his analytical and global business acumen.
Driven by passion, precision, and a relentless pursuit of excellence, Erol Baliyan continues to lead Franck Muller’s operations with a clear vision—delivering exceptional customer experiences, championing innovation, and nurturing the brand’s legacy in the ever-evolving landscape of luxury watches.
In an exclusive interview with EyesOnTime, Erol discusses the brand’s focused expansion in India, exclusive collections, and the evolving preferences of Indian watch collectors.
Q: How is Franck Muller evolving in the Indian luxury market? A: India has become one of our strongest growth stories. After a strategic restructuring five years ago, we’ve built a solid foundation. We now operate 12 points of sale and are planning to add 3–4 more in the near term. In terms of performance, we’re second only to Rolex in this market—proof that India is not just evolving, it’s responding powerfully to what we offer.
Q: What makes the Indian market so unique for Franck Muller? A: India is emotional, responsive, and highly attuned to craft. The more we invest in this market—through design, service, or engagement—the more it gives back. It’s not transactional; it’s a relationship. That fits perfectly with how we operate.
Q: Is there a collection made specifically for India? A: Yes, and we’re very proud of it. We’re about to unveil a limited-edition collection of 108 pieces, hand-engraved, designed with Indian collectors in mind. It’s been four months in the making—just the dial alone. The collection hasn’t even been officially announced, and it’s already sold out. That says everything about India’s appetite for meaningful artistry.
Q: What sets Franck Muller apart from other Swiss luxury watchmakers? A: Our identity is instantly recognizable. We trademarked the Cintrée Curvex case over 30 years ago—an iconic shape that became our design DNA. Our numerals, dial layouts, and complications are all distinct. When someone sees a Franck Muller, they know it’s a Franck Muller. That level of visual signature is rare in watchmaking.
Q: How strong is your after-sales and service presence in India? A: Very strong—and improving each year. We have a central service hub for India with dedicated sales support and technical teams. Every purchase comes with a 3-year warranty (5 years for complications), and we aim to respond quickly to any service needs. After-sales is critical in building trust, and we take it seriously.
Q: How do you maintain long-term relationships with collectors here? A: By staying close. We host clients regularly at our boutiques—not to sell, but to connect. We invite them to view novelties, talk trends, and just engage with the brand. It’s about creating an emotional bond. Collectors aren’t just looking for rare pieces; they want dialogue, discovery, and respect.
Q: What trends are you noticing in Indian collectors’ preferences? A: A definite shift toward more refined, complicated watches—tourbillons are gaining traction. There’s also growing demand for smaller, elegant timepieces, especially in our ladies’ collections. Collectors are craving uniqueness—different dials, rare materials, new forms. The industry has been recycling the same formulas for years. That fatigue is pushing people to look beyond the usual suspects—and they’re finding us.
Q: Any notable pieces recently acquired by Indian collectors? A: The Giga Tourbillon stands out. It’s a technical marvel with a 9-day power reserve and double barrel. We sold one in India recently. There are more unique pieces, but I’d have to check our records to name specifics. Still, it shows the market’s appetite for true haute horlogerie.
Q: How is Franck Muller approaching online retail in India? A: Carefully. E-commerce in luxury requires nuance. We’re already selling our Crypto Collection online, as it caters to a digital-first audience. We’re considering expanding online offerings— especially select ladies’ models—but only through official channels. Every online sale is backed by our full warranty and service network in India. But the experience must be curated, not diluted.
Q: How important is storytelling to Franck Muller’s identity? A: It’s everything. Every collection has a narrative. Take the Sfumato dial—it captures the texture and feeling like a twilight over Amalfi rooftops. Or our new CX Mineral collection, made from Jasper, Malachite, and Lapis—stones shaped by elemental pressure over time, like the stories we tell through our watches.
Q: Can you talk more about Franck Muller’s dial expertise? A: We are arguably one of the strongest in the industry when it comes to dials. We own our dial manufacturing and specialize in techniques like guilloché, enamel, and hand engraving. It’s a huge point of pride—and a big reason our watches look and feel different.
Q: Are there any upcoming celebrity or influencer partnerships in India? A: Yes, we’re actively exploring new collaborations. We’ve had success in the past and understand how influential celebrity culture is in India. You’ll see more of that very soon.
Q: What’s your view on Indian luxury watch media? A: It’s progressing well. But more can be done on both sides. Brands need to engage more proactively, and media should continue building deep, knowledgeable coverage. Consistent communication and shared vision will elevate the whole space.
Final Word:
Franck Muller’s story in India is just beginning—but the foundation is solid: distinctive design, strong relationships, and a respect for artistry that mirrors the spirit of Indian collectors. As the brand doubles down on presence, product, and personalization, it’s clear that India isn’t just a market—it’s a mission.
THE FIRST MINUTE REPEATER IN THE OVERSEAS COLLECTION
HAUTE HORLOGERIE PROWESS
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface is the outcome of a long process to meet the challenge of integrating a grand complication mechanism into an elegant case. In addition to a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar, this movement incorporates a minute repeater, a first in the collection. Generally speaking, water resistance is difficult to achieve with minute repeater calibres due to the sliding mechanism in the case-side that activates the repeater. The challenge with this model was to ensure the water-resistance of the Overseas case, while adapting its lines to Calibre 2755 QP. This required a year and a half of research and development and involved a complete redesign of the caseback to create space for the minute repeater mechanism while maintaining the slender curves characteristic of Overseas watches. With a diameter of 44.5 mm and a height of 13.1 mm, the proportions of this new Overseas case deftly balance the collection’s adventurous character with a spirit of elegance.
AN EMBLEMATIC CALIBRE
One of Vacheron Constantin’s emblematic movements, Calibre 2755 QP benefits from developments made for the Tour de l’Île watch presented in 2005 and brings together three major horological complications. With its 602 components contained within a diameter of 33.30 mm, it incorporates a perpetual calendar with date, day, month and leap-year cycle indications. In addition to this calendar mechanism, which requires no correction before 2100 – a non-leap secular year – there is a minute repeater.
To govern the cadence of the repeater mechanism, which strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on demand, the Maison’s watchmakers developed a centripetal regulator, a proprietary device that allows the hammers to be struck at the precise intervals required to obtain the correct musical sequences. Totally silent, this regulator features two centrifugal weights that act as a motor brake on the axis of rotation, smoothing the flow of energy released by the repeater spring.
In keeping with Vacheron Constantin’s attention to detail, particular attention has been paid to the aesthetics of this governing device, which is visible through the sapphire caseback. An arc-shaped bar secures the regulator; crafted in 750/1000 gold its rounded form requires a full day of meticulous hand- polishing. Beneath it, the circular-grained inertia weights are engraved with the initials of Jean-Marc Vacheron, who founded the Maison in 1755.
AN EMBLEMATIC CALIBRE
The same high standards were applied to the finishing of the tourbillon bridges, which involved rounding the convex profile as well as tapering it towards the fixing screws, then hand- polishing each bridge to a perfect shine. Their architecture was also reviewed, particularly on the reverse side, where it has been made more open and visually lighter. This allows full appreciation of the tourbillon’s ballet, which is enhanced by the relatively slow tempo of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz). Commensurate with the complexity of Calibre 2755 QP, the movement finishes also include mirror-polished repeater hammers, bevelled and satin-brushed bridges, circular satin-brushed wheels, and bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève.
A SPORTY AND CONTEMPORARY AESTHETIC
With its grade 5 titanium case and integrated bracelet, the Overseas Grand Complication Openface watch remains true to the spirit of the collection. Its sporty, contemporary character is enhanced by the transparency of the sapphire dial, which reveals the beauty and complexity of the movement. Applied to the transparent sapphire, the 18-carat white gold hour-markers appear to be floating in space, amplifying the airy aesthetic.
To enhance legibility and create a dynamic contrast with the grey and silver tones of the movement components, the circles surrounding each of the time and calendar indications are treated with a blue metallised finish. The surface of each metallised circle is then engraved in white with the various indications – dates, days, months, years and minutes.
Viewed through the sapphire dial the avant-garde spirit of the watch is highlighted by the contrast between the anthracite grey hue of the NAC galvanic treatment on the bridges and the silvery tone of the rhodium-plated wheels. The mix of finishes on the case and bracelet amplifies the contemporary aesthetic with a visually captivating play of light and reflections. On the bezel, sandblasting combines with polishing and satin-brushing – a new signature for titanium-cased models in the Overseas collection. Like the other pieces in the collection, the model’s titanium bracelet, fitted with a comfort system, is interchangeable without tools and two additional straps – one in blue alligator, one in blue rubber – are offered with the watch.
TECHNICAL DATA
OVERSEAS GRAND COMPLICATION OPENFACE
Reference: 6510V/110T-128C
Calibre: 2755 QP
Developed and manufactured by V acheron Constantin
Mechanical manual-winding
33.9 mm diameter, 7.9 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18’000 vibrations/hour)
602 components
45 jewels
NAC finishing
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications: Hours and minutes
Small seconds on tourbillon
Minute repeater
Perpetual calendar (day, date, month, leap year)
Tourbillon
Power reserve on the back of the watch
Case: Titanium grade 5
44.5 mm diameter, 13.1 mm height
T ransparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water resistant tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial: Sapphire crystal with blue display counters
18K white gold (750/1000) hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with blue
Super-Luminova®
18K white gold (750/1000) counter hands
Strap: Titanium grade 5, satin-finished and polished, interchangeable and with comfort-adjustment
system; T wo additional straps, in blue alligator and in blue rubber
Buckle: Titanium grade 5 folding clasp
One additional titanium grade 5 folding clasp, interchangeable and compatible with both
additional straps
SUMMER CELEBRATIONS START IN MYKONOS WITH THE NEW BIG BANG UNICO SUMMER 2025
If there’s one thing not to miss this season, it’s the launch of the new Big Bang Unico Summer 2025 and the unforgettable Hublot Summer event that comes with it. Since 2017, Hublot has been beach-hopping through the most exclusive Mediterranean hotspots, bringing its bold energy to the places where summer never sleeps. In the heart of Mykonos, Hublot Ambassador and the world’s fastest man Usain Bolt and Friend of the Brand, Mattia Vitale, member of DJ trio Meduza set the tone for an exclusive summer celebration with press, clients, KOLs and members of the Hublot family. Drenched in sun-kissed orange and Mediterranean blue, the Big Bang Unico Summer 2025 captures the essence of endless days under the sun, warm sand between your toes and waves gently lapping the shore.
“Summer and its festive spirit have been celebrated at Hublot for the past 8 years. The Big Bang Unico Summer 2025 reflects what Hublot stands for: bold, vibrant and unforgettable moments. It’s not just about a watch launch or a party, it’s a feeling. A celebration of summer, joy, friendship, team spirit and above all the incredible people who make Hublot what it is” explains Julien Tornare, CEO of Hublot.
A SPLASH OF INNOVATION
Crafted in Hublot’s signature high-tech ceramic, the Big Bang Unico Summer 2025 micro blasted orange case glows like the golden hour, while the sky-blue bezel mirrors the boundless sea. Light, bold and effortlessly cool, it’s made for those who live where the sun meets the waves.
As light as a sea breeze with its featherlight micro blasted ceramic, yet tough for any adventure with its high-resistance ceramic, this watch is ready for every bold, spontaneous dive – from pool party to deep waters – with its 100m water-resistance. A watch, cool enough, to switch effortlessly from beach mode to sunset lounging and party mode in seconds, thanks to its patented One-Click strap system. A timepiece versatile enough, that comes with three interchangeable straps – sky blue, dark blue or orange, all three featuring white-lined rubber – to match your mood & style anytime.
From the inside out, Hublot’s innovation shines from its cutting-edge color ceramic technology to the in-house Unico manufacture movement. Since 2018, Hublot has redefined ceramic with bold, patented colors and extreme durability. Engineered for intensity, its high-tech formula is harder, denser and more scratch-resistant than traditional ceramics. Vibrant, unbreakable and 100% Hublot. Since 2010, the Unico movement has set the standard for in-house innovation, precision and performance. Designed for versatility, its groundbreaking architecture delivers reliability and cutting-edge mechanics. Bold, engineered and 100% Hublot.
BIG BANG UNICO SUMMER 2025
REFERENCE: 441.ES.5199.RX
Limited edition of 100 pieces
DIAL:
Matte Sky Blue and Orange
CASE:
Microblasted Orange Ceramic.
“One-Click” System.
Size: 42 MM
Thickness: 14.50 MM
Water Resistance: 10 ATM / 100 M
MOVEMENT
HUB1280 Unico Manufacture
Self-winding Chronograph
Flyback Movement with Column wheel
Main Plate & Bridges: Blue-plated
Date Calendar Display at 3.00
Oscillating Weight: Blue-plated
Circular Satin-finished Tungsten
Swiss Silicon Lever Escapement
CASE-BACK
Microblasted Orange Ceramic
and Sapphire Crystal with Anti-
reflective Treatment
STRAP AND CLASP
Sky Blue and White Lined Rubber Straps Additional Straps
Dark blue and white Lined Rubber Straps
Orange and White Lined Rubber Straps
Titanium Deployant Buckle Clasp
BEZEL
Microblasted Sky Blue
Ceramic
Screws: 6 H-shaped
Titanium
