The Ref. 5270 has long stood among the finest perpetual calendar chronographs ever produced by Patek Philippe. Now, with the introduction of the 5270P-016, the manufacture expands the family into a trio of striking platinum references, each sharing the same exceptional mechanics while expressing a unique character through colour.
At their core, the 5270P-015, 5270P-016, and 5270P-017 are identical masterpieces. Each is housed in a platinum case featuring the signature concave bezel and elegant two-tier lugs. Each is powered by the manually wound CH 29-535 PS Q calibre, combining a traditional column-wheel chronograph with a perpetual calendar enhanced by six patented chronograph innovations. And each retains the beautifully balanced dial layout that has become synonymous with the Ref. 5270.
Where they differ is in personality.
5270P-015: Understated Sophistication
The 5270P-015 pairs its platinum case with a sunburst charcoal grey lacquered dial that fades into a black-gradient rim. Combined with a black composite strap featuring cream-coloured stitching, it delivers the most understated and versatile expression of the collection.
The monochromatic palette gives the watch a contemporary, almost architectural presence, appealing to collectors who appreciate quiet elegance over visual drama.
5270P-016: The Modern Classic
The newly introduced 5270P-016 brings a vibrant blue lacquered dial into the collection, again framed by a subtle black-gradient edge. Blue stitching on the textured black composite strap perfectly complements the dial, creating a harmonious balance between sportiness and refinement.
Blue has become one of modern watchmaking’s most sought-after dial colours, yet Patek Philippe approaches it with remarkable restraint. The result is a watch that feels contemporary without chasing trends, allowing the legendary perpetual calendar chronograph to remain the true focal point.
5270P-017: A Bold Statement
For collectors seeking something more expressive, the 5270P-017 introduces a rich red lacquered dial with the same black-gradient finish. Paired with matching red stitching on the composite strap, it is undoubtedly the most daring interpretation of the trio.
While bold in appearance, the carefully executed lacquer finish and balanced dial architecture ensure that the watch remains unmistakably Patek Philippe, blending confidence with timeless elegance.
One Legendary Movement, Three Different Expressions
Across all three references, the familiar perpetual calendar display remains perfectly organised. The day and month appear through twin in-line apertures at 12 o’clock, while the date and moon phases occupy the display at 6 o’clock. White gold dauphine hands and a crisp white tachymeter scale ensure exceptional legibility against each dial colour.
Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the manually wound CH 29-535 PS Q calibre continues to showcase the artistry of traditional Swiss watchmaking through impeccable hand-finishing, refined decoration, and sophisticated engineering.
The EyesOnTime Perspective
With the 5270P-015, 5270P-016, and 5270P-017, Patek Philippe demonstrates how colour can transform the identity of an already iconic watch without altering its mechanical soul.
Whether one prefers the understated elegance of charcoal grey, the timeless appeal of blue, or the bold confidence of red, each reference celebrates the same enduring philosophy: exceptional complications, uncompromising craftsmanship, and design that transcends generations.
Rather than replacing one another, these three platinum references offer collectors three distinct interpretations of one of modern haute horlogerie’s greatest creations.
For decades, the world of watch collecting has been defined by legacy, lineage, and a certain unspoken exclusivity. TickTockBelles doesn’t attempt to disrupt that narrative—it simply rewrites it with quiet precision. Founded by Deborah Wong and Stephanie Soh, the platform brings a new kind of authority to horology—one that feels instinctive rather than inherited, personal rather than performative.
What Deborah and Stephanie have built isn’t about claiming space—it’s about redefining it. Their approach to watch collecting feels intimate, self-assured, and deeply considered, where every piece carries a story and every conversation invites more voices in. In an industry that has often spoken at women, TickTockBelles speaks with them—cultivating a community that is as discerning as it is inclusive.
We spoke to Deborah Wong and Stephanie Soh about what sparked TickTockBelles, the subtle biases still shaping the industry, and what needs to change for the next generation of collectors.
What triggered the creation of TickTockBelles—was it a gap you saw, or a barrier you experienced?
The founding of TickTockBelles in 2022 was triggered by a combination of a gap in the market for a female centric watch community and barrier in the industry for gender inclusivity.
The Gap (Lack of a female centric watch community): As frequent recipients of questions from other women looking for timepieces guidance, we identified a need for a female-focused platform to support interest in watch collecting.
The Barrier (Lack of advocates for gender inclusivity): Depending on the market, we observed that the luxury watch space was historically imbalance in gender inclusivity. Female watch enthusiasts may be perceived as uninterested in mechanical complications or craftsmanship. Sales personnel frequently focus on promoting trends or jewel watches to female clientele, rather than the technical appreciation of the timepiece, which created a less than conducive retail experience for serious women collectors.
In one sentence: what does TickTockBelles stand for that the watch industry currently doesn’t?
TickTockBelles stands for a dedicated, safe, and inclusive community that fosters genuine horological passion among women without the ego, hype, or gender bias often found in the traditionally male-dominated watch industry.
What’s the most subtle form of bias women face in watch collecting today?
The Most Subtle Form of Bias: “Dismissive Retail Experiences”
Mansplaining and Underestimation: The most subtle, yet pervasive, bias is the assumptions that female collectors lack technical knowledge, leading to “mansplaining” about watch complications.
Superficial Targeting: Brands and sales personnel frequently focus on selling to women based on aesthetics—like the number of diamonds or current trends—rather than engaging them in the technical, mechanical, or heritage-worthy aspects of a timepiece.
The “Secondary” Customer: There is a lingering, subtle assumption in many retail environments that women are browsing for gifts or luxury accessories, rather than serious, self-purchasing collectors.
What’s one myth about women collectors that you actively push back against?
“Women Only Buy Smaller, Quartz Watches for Fashion”
The Myth: It is commonly believed that women prefer, or should only wear, small, quartz-powered, or highly embellished “ladies’ watches,” and that these watches are worth less than men’s watches.
The Reality/Pushback: Women are increasingly aware about what type of watches suit their lifestyles and personalities. They are fast developing keen interests in the in mechanical aspects of the timepieces. There is also budding trends of women appreciating independent watchmaking.
No Gender for Horology: We advocate that watches should not bear gender label which commonly give rise to the notion of “male” watch is better than a “female” watch. The appreciation should lie in the movement, design, and history etc.
The “Small is the New Big” Trend: We embrace a trend where “tiny is the new big” while also appreciating larger, historically male-targeted timepieces.
Have you ever changed someone’s perception of women in horology through this platform? Tell us that moment.
Over the last 3 plus years, we were frequently been invited by watch brands, independent watchmakers and microbrands to host female centric get-togethers. This is a prominent shift and a testament that the industry recognises women possesse independent spending capabilities and decision making when it comes to watch acquisitions.
We are most flattered when male collectors feedback that they often recommended their female friends and family to be a part of TickTockBelles community should they are keen to learn more about watch appreciation.
In recent times, we also have male collectors enquiring if they could join our community activities and get-togethers. We are humbled that our advocy has brought about perception shift to more masses and not just confined to a single individual.
What kind of watch conversations excite you the most right now—design, mechanics, or cultural storytelling?
The conversations that excite us most right now are those surrounding cultural storytelling and the broader emotional connection women have with watches. While we appreciate design and mechanics, our primary focus is on shifting the narrative within the watch industry. We are particularly energized by:
Breaking Gender Barriers: We are passionate about inclusivity and to encourage women to pursue watch collecting as a serious hobby and passion.
Community and Connection: We find great excitement in meeting fellow female enthusiasts globally and building a safe space where women can discuss watches at the most basic level. Conversations on how to build authentic engagement and culture within watch community is critical.
Legacy and Personal Narratives: Conversations often center on watches as heirlooms and the “legacy planning” aspect of collecting, where a timepiece’s value is tied to the personal stories it will carry for the next generation.
Which brand or move in the industry recently made you think, “okay, this is progress”?
A move that signals true progress in the watch industry is when brands move beyond gender stereotypes — such as simply adding diamonds or reducing watch case sizes — and instead focus on authentic inclusion and mechanical substance for women. Some key examples and perspectives on progress include:
Gender-Inclusive Marketing: When retailers and brands host female-centric activities, encouraging women to explore watches for their mechanical and artistic value rather than just as accessories.
Mechanical Substance over Aesthetics: When heritage brands invest in both movement and aesthetics for women’s watches, rather than defaulting to quartz movements for the female segment with the excuses that they fit better in smaller watches.
Collaborations and Independent Brands: Our collaboration with the microbrand Awake Concept on the “Cotton Candy” watch—a piece with a hand-mixed lacquer dial that attracted both female and male collectors—represents a move toward gender-neutral appreciation and artistic innovation.
Brands to Watch: Parmigiani Fleurier
What’s one trend in watch culture you think is overrated — or even harmful?
There are two such prominent trends currently – Chasing the hype, and watch as investments which could lead to potential pitfalls:
Financial Loss: Purchasing a watch simply because it is popular especially if they are acquired at premium in secondary markets. If the market shifts South, there may be financial losses.
“Expensive Regret”: If you no longer like the timepiece once the hype dies down, the purchase becomes a regret.
Lack of Personal Affinity: We believe in collecting based on a genuine emotional connection and personal style rather than market trends.
If you had the power to influence one real change across watch brands globally, what would it be?
The one real change we would like to continue to influence is for watch brands to move past the “shrink it and pink it” mentality. Some integrated shifts in how global brands operate could include de-gendering watches, technical inclusion, incorporate form and function as part of brand conversation.
When a young woman discovers watches today, what do you hope her first experience feels like?
We hope for the experience to be inclusive and a discovery of self-expression. TickTockBelles community friends are always eager to help each other to find a timepiece that we have a genuine affinity for. Something that speaks to our hearts, a reminder of a personal story or even to commemorate a milestone in life. We hope she feels empowered to choose unconventional shapes, vintage pieces, or even “men’s” sports models based on what fits her lifestyle and future as a potential heirloom.
The Shift Ahead
If the future of horology is about perspective, not prescription, TickTockBelles is already shaping it. Deborah Wong and Stephanie Soh aren’t just expanding the conversation—they’re making it more thoughtful, more open, and ultimately, more real.
Photo Credits: Deborah Wong & Stephanie Soh
Timepieces: From the private collections of Deborah Wong & Stephanie Soh
