The Ref. 5270 has long stood among the finest perpetual calendar chronographs ever produced by Patek Philippe. Now, with the introduction of the 5270P-016, the manufacture expands the family into a trio of striking platinum references, each sharing the same exceptional mechanics while expressing a unique character through colour.
At their core, the 5270P-015, 5270P-016, and 5270P-017 are identical masterpieces. Each is housed in a platinum case featuring the signature concave bezel and elegant two-tier lugs. Each is powered by the manually wound CH 29-535 PS Q calibre, combining a traditional column-wheel chronograph with a perpetual calendar enhanced by six patented chronograph innovations. And each retains the beautifully balanced dial layout that has become synonymous with the Ref. 5270.
Where they differ is in personality.
5270P-015: Understated Sophistication
The 5270P-015 pairs its platinum case with a sunburst charcoal grey lacquered dial that fades into a black-gradient rim. Combined with a black composite strap featuring cream-coloured stitching, it delivers the most understated and versatile expression of the collection.
The monochromatic palette gives the watch a contemporary, almost architectural presence, appealing to collectors who appreciate quiet elegance over visual drama.
5270P-016: The Modern Classic
The newly introduced 5270P-016 brings a vibrant blue lacquered dial into the collection, again framed by a subtle black-gradient edge. Blue stitching on the textured black composite strap perfectly complements the dial, creating a harmonious balance between sportiness and refinement.
Blue has become one of modern watchmaking’s most sought-after dial colours, yet Patek Philippe approaches it with remarkable restraint. The result is a watch that feels contemporary without chasing trends, allowing the legendary perpetual calendar chronograph to remain the true focal point.
5270P-017: A Bold Statement
For collectors seeking something more expressive, the 5270P-017 introduces a rich red lacquered dial with the same black-gradient finish. Paired with matching red stitching on the composite strap, it is undoubtedly the most daring interpretation of the trio.
While bold in appearance, the carefully executed lacquer finish and balanced dial architecture ensure that the watch remains unmistakably Patek Philippe, blending confidence with timeless elegance.
One Legendary Movement, Three Different Expressions
Across all three references, the familiar perpetual calendar display remains perfectly organised. The day and month appear through twin in-line apertures at 12 o’clock, while the date and moon phases occupy the display at 6 o’clock. White gold dauphine hands and a crisp white tachymeter scale ensure exceptional legibility against each dial colour.
Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the manually wound CH 29-535 PS Q calibre continues to showcase the artistry of traditional Swiss watchmaking through impeccable hand-finishing, refined decoration, and sophisticated engineering.
The EyesOnTime Perspective
With the 5270P-015, 5270P-016, and 5270P-017, Patek Philippe demonstrates how colour can transform the identity of an already iconic watch without altering its mechanical soul.
Whether one prefers the understated elegance of charcoal grey, the timeless appeal of blue, or the bold confidence of red, each reference celebrates the same enduring philosophy: exceptional complications, uncompromising craftsmanship, and design that transcends generations.
Rather than replacing one another, these three platinum references offer collectors three distinct interpretations of one of modern haute horlogerie’s greatest creations.
Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase Spring Blossom: A Poetic Celebration of Haute Couture and Horology
Swiss luxury watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has unveiled the Égérie Moon Phase Spring Blossom, a limited edition timepiece that captures the fleeting beauty of springtime blossoms through artisanal craftsmanship and refined watchmaking. Limited to just 100 pieces worldwide, the new creation combines Haute Horlogerie with the poetic codes of Haute Couture.
Presented in a 37mm 18K 5N pink gold case, the Égérie Moon Phase Spring Blossom features a luminous pink mother-of-pearl dial paired with a hand-painted calfskin strap adorned with delicate floral motifs. The Maison describes this as the first time miniature painting has been applied directly to a watch strap in this manner.
Inspired by the Poetry of Spring
The latest addition to the Égérie collection draws inspiration from the soft pink and white blossoms that define springtime landscapes. The watch embraces an entirely pink palette, with tonal variations enhancing its romantic and feminine aesthetic.
Its moon phase display sits between 1 and 3 o’clock within a diamond-set circular aperture aligned with the winding crown, itself set with a moonstone. Gold moons emerge from mother-of-pearl clouds against a dusky pink sky, adding depth and visual poetry to the composition.
Each piece in the limited edition is subtly unique due to the natural variations of mother-of-pearl and the hand-painted artistry of the strap.
Haute Couture Meets Haute Horlogerie
Since its launch in 2020, the Égérie collection has drawn heavily from the world of Haute Couture, translating textile-inspired details into horological design. Pleated textures on the dial evoke the movement of fabric, while the asymmetrical display and intertwined circles reflect the elegance of couture tailoring.
The Spring Blossom edition deepens this connection through its interchangeable strap system. Alongside the hand-painted calfskin strap, the watch is delivered with two additional options: a shiny raspberry-pink alligator strap and a blush-pink grosgrain fabric strap, each fitted with its own pink gold buckle.
Vacheron Constantin’s Product & Innovation Director, Sandrine Donguy, explained that the project was conceived as a fusion of traditional decorative crafts and modern experimentation. By applying miniature painting to the strap rather than the dial or case, the Maison sought to evolve métiers d’art in new directions while preserving artisanal know-how.
A Floral Legacy Spanning More Than Two Centuries
Flowers have long played a role in Vacheron Constantin’s design language. The Maison traces this botanical inspiration back over 200 years, referencing historical pocket watches and pendant watches embellished with floral engravings, enamel work, pearls, and precious stones.
The influence of Art Nouveau during the early 20th century also played a role in shaping these creations, with organic forms and floral motifs transforming timepieces into wearable works of art.
TECHNICAL DATA
ÉGÉRIE MOON PHASE SPRING BLOSSOM
Reference 8005F/000R – H157
Calibre 1088 L
Manufacture calibre Mechanical, self-winding
30 mm (9’’’) in diameter, 5.03 mm thick
Approximately 40-hour power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
164 components
24 jewels
37 mm in diameter; 10.08 mm thick
Bezel set with 58 diamonds
Crown set with a moonstone
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Pink calfskin watch presentation pouch with printed blossom motif and pink calfskin strap case
Total diamond-setting 94 diamonds, for a total weight of approx. 1.10 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)
Limited and numbered edition of 100 pieces
Available exclusively through Vacheron Constantin boutiques, the Égérie Moon Phase Spring Blossom stands as a poetic expression of femininity, craftsmanship, and the enduring dialogue between Haute Couture and Haute Horlogerie.
In August 2024 Frederique Constant unveiled its Classics Moneta Moonphase, a timepiece on which the traditional fluted bezel motif was moved to the flange, giving the case the appearance of a coin – hence the ‘Moneta’ moniker. Now the Geneva-based manufacture has added further style flourishes, giving two of the original models with blue or silver dials a new look that takes them into a whole other aesthetic dimension.
For the first variation, Frederique Constant has opted for a PVD case done out in yellow gold with matching hands and hour markers – a classic prestige livery. For the first time ever, the second timepiece features a Milanese mesh bracelet, beautifully offsetting the steel colour of the case, externals and Moon display at six o’clock and resulting in a more vintage look. Both watches retain the 37-millimetre diameter case and are powered by a quartz movement that makes the Classics Moneta Moonphase that bit more affordable – and desirable.
One of Frederique Constant’s most foundational style principles is timelessness, characterised by a vintage look coupled with discreet modernity – and both new variations of the Classics Moneta Moonphase take the expression of that principle to new heights. Are they vintage, contemporary, urban, Sixties, or Seventies? At the end of the day the answer is very much in the eye of the beholder; the one thing that’s not up for debate is the thoroughly horological nature of the two timepieces.
In the best traditions of fine watchmaking, the dials sport a meticulous sunray finish, softly diffusing light towards the twelve applique hour markers above which hand-polished dauphine hands glide effortlessly. The decision not to include a seconds hand blurs the boundary between quartz and mechanical movements: at first glance, it’s impossible to tell which powers the Classics Moneta Moonphase. The calm, peaceful atmosphere exuded by the dial is further highlighted by the moonphase at six o’clock. Earth’s closest neighbour cycles through its phases in 27 days, 7 hours, 43 minutes and 12 seconds at a rate invisible to the naked eye. Housed in a 37-millimetre case, the restrained and elegant Classics Moneta Moonphase embodies the canons of watchmaking etiquette, be it on men’s or ladies’ wrists.
The style signature of the Classics Moneta Moonphase is its flange, crafted to resemble the edge of a coin. Here, this hallmark of Geneva watchmaking has been moved from its original location on the bezel, instead adding grooved relief to the dial. Frederique Constant’s creativity delights in these clever, sophisticated new takes on convention – giving the brand its very own design ethos in the process.
On the first new variation, the brilliant yellow gold colour adds a further sense of prestige to the piece; the finish is a first for a Classics Moneta Moonphase. The Moon, stars and all the externals (the case, hour markers, hands, and crown) are done out in the same hue, underscoring the philosophy of affordable luxury so dear to Frederique Constant.
The second version offers a steel colour scheme to complement its gold counterpart. Instead of a calfskin strap, the watch sports a Milanese mesh bracelet – another first in the Classics Moneta Moonphase collection. The flexible bracelet fits snugly around the wrist almost like a second skin, giving the piece both a daringly relaxed air and a vintage look; Milanese mesh was all the rage in the 1970s. The steel bracelet beautifully offsets the colour of the applique hour markers and dauphine hands (another icon of vintage watches), as well as the lunar grey of the Moon and stars. The complication is encircled by a thin gold line matching the lettering of the brand’s ‘Frederique Constant, Genève’ signature at twelve o’clock.
Few watchmakers approach evolution with the mastery of A. Lange & Söhne. Each variation of the LANGE 1 family holds on to the essence of the original while introducing new layers of refinement. The LANGE 1 DAYMATIC HONEYGOLD is a perfect example of this philosophy—an automatic expression of a modern icon, newly presented in HONEYGOLD®, a warm, exclusive gold alloy reserved for the manufacture’s most exceptional pieces.
This special edition, limited to 250 watches, blends architectural dial design, mechanical sophistication, and precious materiality in a way only Lange can achieve.
A Dial Reimagined: A Mirror Image with Purpose
The LANGE 1 DAYMATIC maintains the visual balance and asymmetry that defined the original LANGE 1—yet it introduces a clever twist. The entire dial layout is reversed, offering a fresh perspective without compromising the fundamental identity of the model.
Where the traditional LANGE 1 carries a power reserve indicator, the DAYMATIC replaces it with a retrograde day-of-week display. This clean and intuitive complication sweeps across the left side of the dial, resetting back to Monday in a crisp retrograde motion at the start of a new week.
To enhance the perception of depth, the watch features for the first time a slightly recessed hour-and-minute circle, adding subtle three-dimensionality to the warm brown 925-silver dial.
HONEYGOLD®: Exclusivity in Material Form
A defining characteristic of this edition is its 750 HONEYGOLD® case—A. Lange & Söhne’s proprietary gold alloy, known for its rich, honey-like glow and heightened hardness compared to conventional 18k gold. It is reserved only for the manufacture’s most exclusive releases, ensuring rarity beyond the limited production number.
Paired with the brown dial, the honey gold case creates a harmonious, understated luxury that feels unmistakably Lange: warm, refined, and confident without excess.
An Automatic Heart: The Essence of the DAYMATIC
Unlike the manually wound LANGE 1, the DAYMATIC is defined by its self-winding movement. While the brand’s website highlights the watch as the automatic counterpart to the LANGE 1, the ethos remains the same: precision, tradition, and horological integrity.
The automatic construction gives the DAYMATIC a different daily rhythm—perfect for collectors who appreciate the LANGE 1 design philosophy but prefer the practicality of a watch that stays powered through regular wear.
Subtle Refinements, Lasting Character
A few design details elevate this edition even further:
A slender bezel emphasizes the elegance and openness of the dial
The large date display—a signature of the LANGE 1—remains prominent at 11 o’clock
Balanced sub-dials maintain legibility and harmony despite the mirrored architecture
The warm brown strap integrates naturally into the overall color palette
These refinements are subtle, yet collectively they give the DAYMATIC a unique identity within the broader LANGE 1 family.
Limited to 250 Pieces
Exclusivity is central to the appeal of the HONEYGOLD series. This LANGE 1 DAYMATIC edition is strictly limited to 250 pieces, making it not only a design milestone for the manufacture but also a collector’s opportunity that will not come again.
The combination of an iconic complication, precious proprietary gold alloy, and limited availability ensures that this model will hold a special place in the lineage of the LANGE 1.
Why the LANGE 1 DAYMATIC HONEYGOLD Matters
This release speaks to A. Lange & Söhne’s ability to evolve an icon without rewriting its identity. It represents:
A new perspective on a legendary dial layout
The debut of honey gold in the DAYMATIC line
The heritage of Glashütte craftsmanship
The practical elegance of automatic operation
A rare, collectible statement piece within the LANGE 1 family
In the world of fine watchmaking, it’s rare for a brand to push forward while holding so steadfastly to tradition. The LANGE 1 DAYMATIC HONEYGOLD achieves exactly that.
The LANGE 1 DAYMATIC HONEYGOLD is a masterclass in subtle innovation. It respects its lineage, introduces meaningful design updates, and stands out with a material exclusive to the manufacture. For collectors seeking a Lange that feels familiar yet refreshingly different, this limited edition offers a compelling, beautifully executed answer.
2025 marks the 75th anniversary of Ahmed Seddiqi, MB&F’s longstanding retail partner in Dubai. To commemorate this important milestone, the two partners have chosen to craft not just one but two Limited Editions, both powered by MB&F’s award-winning Perpetual Calendar calibre: 7 LM Perpetual EVO pieces and 5 LM Perpetual Baguette Diamonds pieces, both featuring signature blue highlights.
For over seven decades, Ahmed Seddiqi has been a cornerstone of the regional horology landscape, cultivating appreciation for fine timepieces and championing independent brands such as MB&F. This collaboration not only recognizes the Seddiqi family’s role in horology, but also celebrates the deep friendship between the two partners.
Reflecting on this relationship, Maximilian Büsser, owner & creative director of MB&F, shares:
“I have been privileged over the last 27 years of their 75-year history, to have counted the Seddiqi family as very close friends. They welcomed me when I was at my most vulnerable, they many times helped me when I was down, and were there to celebrate our greatest achievements together. It is therefore my privilege and honour to celebrate this milestone of Ahmed Seddiqi, with two incredibly rare and special MB&F pieces. Both are based on the ground-breaking Perpetual Calendar developed by Stephen McDonnell. For such an exceptional anniversary, we had to choose an equally exceptional movement”.
First released in 2015, the GPHG award-winning Legacy Machine Perpetual has become a strong favourite amongst MB&F aficionados. The LM Perpetual has also evolved into several EVO editions, designed for an active lifestyle – with enhanced 80 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown, an integrated rubber strap and MB&F’s patented FlexRing, a proprietary annular dampener providing shock protection.
The LM Perpetual EVO 75th Anniversary Seddiqi Limited Edition
The 75th Anniversary edition of the LM Perpetual EVO – limited to only 7 pieces – is housed in a grade 5 titanium case, engraved with the anniversary theme. It stands out thanks to the same striking blue colour first featured on the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser especially created for Ahmed Seddiqi in 2020. The signature blue colour has been applied for this edition to the sub-dials, contrasting with the anthracite dial plate in the background.
The LM Perpetual Baguette Diamonds 75th Anniversary Seddiqi Limited Edition
The second 75th Anniversary edition – even more limited, with just 5 pieces – inaugurates a first for the Legacy Machine Perpetual series: a refined bezel set with 48 baguette-cut diamonds. The case is crafted in stainless steel, engraved with the 75th Anniversary message. Like its EVO counterpart, it also features the same signature blue colour but applied on the dial plate, with contrasting black sub-dials displaying the time, day of the week, month and date.
LEGACY MACHINE PERPETUAL IN DETAIL
CONVENTIONAL PERPETUAL CALENDARS
Created by Northern Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell and premiered in 2015, the LM Perpetual calibre was — and still is — one of the most innovative perpetual calendar systems to exist in modern watchmaking.
Conventional perpetual calendars are generally modules comprising the complication, which is fitted on top of an existing movement. The calendar indications are synchronised by a long lever running across the top of the complication and passing through the centre. As the date changes, this long lever transmits information to the appropriate components and mechanisms by moving backwards and forwards. This traditional system is extremely unwieldy, restricting movement construction in several key ways that would make something like Legacy Machine Perpetual a mechanical impossibility.
In the traditional system, perpetual calendars assume that, by default, all months have 31 days. At the end of months with fewer than 31 days, the mechanism quickly skips through the superfluous dates before arriving at the 1st of the new month. Any manipulation or adjustment of the date during changeover can result in damage to the mechanism, requiring expensive repairs. The dates can also jump or skip during changeover, negating the whole point of the perpetual calendar in the first place, which is not requiring adjustment for years. Or decades.
MECHANICAL PROCESSOR
Legacy Machine Perpetual uses a “mechanical processor” consisting of a series of superimposed disks. This revolutionary processor takes the default number of days in the month at 28 – because, logically, all months have at least 28 days – and then adds the extra days as required by each individual month. This ensures that each month has exactly the right number of days. There is no “skipping over” redundant days, and no possibility of the date jumping incorrectly.
Using a planetary cam, the mechanical processor also enables quick-setting of the year so that it displays correctly in the four-year leap year cycle, whereas traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms require the user to scroll through up to 47 months to arrive at the right month and year. The mechanical processor also enables an inbuilt safety feature that disconnects the quick-set pushers during the date changeover, eliminating any risk of damage
OPENING UP A NEW WORLD OF PERPETUAL CALENDAR AESTHETICS
Legacy Machine Perpetual takes advantage of its fully integrated movement to place the perpetual calendar mechanism on top of the movement main plate so that it can be appreciated from above. Legibility is often an issue with perpetual calendars due to the sheer number of indications, and LM Perpetual addresses this by using skeletonised subdials (except for the time indication) that appear to float above the complication with no apparent support from below.
In yet another innovation, Legacy Machine Perpetual uses what is likely to be the world’s longest balance wheel pinion to connect that elegantly suspended balance, hovering above the top of the movement, to the escapement on the back of the movement.
Two Limited Editions
– LM Perpetual EVO limited to 7 pieces with signature blue sub-dials;
– LM Perpetual Baguette Diamonds limited to 5 pieces with signature blue dial plate.
Engine
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels.
Bespoke 14 mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000bph / 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41
EVO edition: screw-down crown and FlexRing annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes.
Functions/indications
Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators.
Case
EVO edition: grade 5 titanium
Baguette Diamonds edition: stainless steel with 48 baguette-cut 1.5-carat diamonds bezel.
Engraving: 75th Seddiqi anniversary engraving on the case-back.
Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
Number of components: 70 (EVO edition) or 69 (Baguette edition)
Water resistance: 8ATM / 80m / 270 feet (EVO edition) or 30 m / 90′ / 3 ATM (Baguette edition)
Sapphire crystals
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces.
Strap & buckle
EVO edition: rubber strap with titanium folding buckle.
Baguette Diamonds edition: white hand-stitched alligator strap with stainless steel folding buckle.
MB&F – GENESIS OF A CONCEPT LABORATORY
Founded in 2005, MB&F is the world’s first-ever horological concept laboratory. With over 20 remarkable calibres forming the base of the critically acclaimed Horological and Legacy Machines, MB&F is continuing to follow Founder and Creative Director Maximilian Büsser’s vision of creating 3-D kinetic art by deconstructing traditional watchmaking.
After 15 years managing prestigious watch brands, Maximilian Büsser resigned from his Managing Director position at Harry Winston in 2005 to create MB&F – Maximilian Büsser & Friends. MB&F is an artistic and micro-engineering laboratory dedicated to designing and crafting small series of radical concept watches by bringing together talented horological professionals that Büsser both respects and enjoys working with.
In 2007, MB&F unveiled its first Horological Machine, HM1. HM1’s sculptured, three-dimensional case and beautifully finished engine (movement) set the standard for the idiosyncratic Horological Machines that have followed – all Machines that tell the time, rather than Machines to tell the time. The fiercely unconventional Horological Machines have explored themes as diverse as space and science fiction, aviation, supercars, the animal kingdom and architecture.
In 2011, MB&F launched its round-cased Legacy Machine collection. These more classical pieces – classical for MB&F, that is – pay tribute to nineteenth-century watchmaking excellence by reinterpreting complications from the great horological innovators of yesteryear to create contemporary objets d’art. Certain Legacy Machines have also given birth to EVO editions, featuring increased water and shock resistance compatible with collectors’ active lifestyles. MB&F generally alternates between launching contemporary, resolutely unconventional Horological Machines and historically inspired Legacy Machines.
As the F stands for Friends, it was only natural for MB&F to develop collaborations with artists, watchmakers, designers and manufacturers they admire.
This brought about two new categories: Performance Art and Co-creations. While Performance Art pieces are MB&F machines revisited by external creative talent, Co-creations are not wristwatches but other types of machines, engineered and crafted by unique Swiss Manufactures from MB&F ideas and designs. Many of these Co-creations, such as the clocks created with L’Epée 1839, tell the time while collaborations with Reuge and Caran d’Ache generated other forms of mechanical art.
To give all these machines an appropriate platform, Büsser had the idea of placing them in an art gallery alongside various forms of mechanical art created by other artists, rather than in a traditional storefront. This brought about the creation of the first MB&F M.A.D.Gallery (M.A.D. stands for Mechanical Art Devices) in Geneva, which would later be joined by the M.A.D.Gallery in Dubai – along with MB&F Labs, which showcase a more compact selection of artists in locations like Singapore, Taipei, Paris and Beverly Hills.
There have been distinguished accolades reminding us of the innovative nature of MB&F’s journey so far. To name a few, there have been no less than 9 awards from the famous Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, including the ultimate prize: the “Aiguille d’Or”, which rewards the best watch of the year. In 2022, the LM Sequential EVO was awarded the Aiguille d’Or, while the M.A.D.1 RED won the ‘Challenge’ category. In 2021, LMX won the Best Men’s Complication and the LM SE Eddy Jaquet ‘Around The World in Eighty Days’ was awarded in the ‘Artistic Crafts’ category. In 2019, the prize for Best Ladies Complication went to the LM FlyingT; in 2016, LM Perpetual won the Best Calendar Watch award; in 2012, Legacy Machine No.1 was awarded both the Public Prize (voted for by horology fans) and the Best Men’s Watch Prize (voted for by the professional jury). In 2010, MB&F won Best Concept and Design Watch for the HM4 Thunderbolt. In 2015 MB&F received a Red Dot: Best of the Best award – the top prize at the international Red Dot Awards – for the HM6 Space Pirate.
ABOUT AHMED SEDDIQI
Driven by the vision of its founder, Mr. Ahmed Qassim Seddiqi, and the passion of the Seddiqi family, Ahmed Seddiqi has established its legacy across luxury retail over the years.
The first Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons boutique opened in Bur Dubai in 1950.
Since then, the retail footprint has expanded to a network of boutiques across the UAE.
Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is recognised as a pioneer amongst retailers in the region, led by its commitment to service excellence, horology expertise, portfolio curation, and creating unique experiences for its customers.
Their craftsmanship is not just something that they sell, it is fundamental to who they are as a company. Their technical expertise, gained over generations, gave them an intricate mechanical knowledge of watches and jewellery. From detailed watch servicing to understanding movements inside and out, they do blend the meticulous skill of craftsmen with the refined taste of seasoned retailers.
As Ahmed Seddiqi celebrates its 75 years anniversary, the company unveiled a refreshed identity that honours its legacy while looking into the future. Subtle yet purposeful changes reflect who they are today: a house of heritage, expertise, and evolving elegance.
ABOUT DUBAI WATCH WEEK
Founded in 2015 by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, Dubai Watch Week is a global platform dedicated to preserving watchmaking culture, fostering education, and facilitating creative dialogue. The event brings together collectors, brands, artisans, and the public in an open celebration of horology.
The seventh edition will be held from 19–23 November 2025 at Burj Park, presented under the patronage of Her Highness Sheikha Latifa bint Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum.
At first glance, the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 glows with an almost hypnotic allure. The dial—a gradient of deep red fading to black—captures the very essence of twilight. Rolex describes it as a “communion of light and shade”, a poetic phrase that beautifully encapsulates both the spirit of the design and the mastery of its creation.
In a landscape where luxury watches often rely on restraint, this red ombré dial stands apart as a daring statement. Inspired by the fleeting warmth of sunset, it is a study in contrast—fire meeting shadow, brilliance meeting depth.
The Datejust Legacy: A Timeless Classic
Few watches embody enduring elegance quite like the Rolex Datejust. Since its introduction in 1945, the Datejust has remained an archetype of classic watchmaking—combining practicality with poise. It was the first automatic, waterproof chronometer wristwatch to display the date at 3 o’clock, revolutionizing wristwatch functionality.
Eighty years later, its appeal remains undimmed. Every new iteration is a dialogue between Rolex’s storied past and its forward-looking innovation. The 2025 red ombré model continues this legacy, adding a bold splash of color to an icon known for quiet confidence.
A Fiery First: The Red Ombré Dial
This is the first time Rolex has rendered the ombré dial in such a vivid, fiery tone. Originally introduced in 2019 and reserved for the Day-Date, the ombré design uses PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) to create its distinctive gradient — a subtle yet striking play of color that intensifies toward the outer rim.
The red ombré dial on this Datejust 31 feels like molten gold meeting shadow — expressive yet elegantly restrained. Surrounding the dial are 46 brilliant-cut diamonds, framing the color like sparks at the edge of a flame. Ten more diamonds serve as hour markers, each set in 18 ct yellow gold, offering a luxurious rhythm of sparkle and hue.
The Oyster Case: Symbol of Strength and Elegance
The 31 mm Oyster case, crafted from a solid block of 18 ct yellow gold, reflects Rolex’s unmatched craftsmanship. Its proportions balance grace and durability—refined yet robust. The Twinlock winding crown ensures waterproofness up to 100 metres (330 feet), while the sapphire crystal with its Cyclops lens guarantees clarity and scratch resistance.
Every curve, polish, and surface of the case has been refined to capture light in motion. This is not merely a protective shell—it’s a statement of permanence.
Inside the Movement: Calibre 2236
At the heart of this watch beats the Rolex Calibre 2236, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Introduced in 2014, and fitted to this model since 2018, it remains one of the brand’s most advanced calibres for smaller timepieces.
Equipped with the Syloxi hairspring in silicon and the paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escape wheel, the Calibre 2236 ensures resistance to shocks, temperature variations, and magnetic fields. Rolex’s patented Paraflex shock absorbers and Perpetual rotor guarantee optimal performance with a power reserve of approximately 55 hours.
In typical Rolex fashion, the technical brilliance remains discreet—hidden beneath a case back that needs no exhibition window to prove its worth.
The President Bracelet: Prestige Refined
Created in 1956 for the launch of the Day-Date, the President bracelet remains one of Rolex’s most recognizable and prestigious designs. Reserved exclusively for precious metal versions of the Datejust and Day-Date, it blends seamless comfort with iconic aesthetics.
The three-piece solid links, crafted in 18 ct yellow gold, feature polished center links and satin-finished outer links—a tactile reminder of Rolex’s dual mastery of craft and ergonomics. Inside, patented ceramic inserts enhance flexibility and longevity. The concealed Crownclasp ensures a flawless visual continuity.
The Superlative Standard
Every Rolex watch undergoes stringent in-house testing under the Superlative Chronometer certification, redefined by Rolex in 2015. This guarantees exceptional precision (−2/+2 seconds per day), waterproofness, and durability.
The hallmark green seal accompanying each watch is not merely symbolic—it represents Rolex’s five-year international guarantee and its pursuit of horological excellence.
Why It Matters: The New Expression of the Classic
The Datejust 31 red ombré isn’t just a new dial variation—it’s a confident evolution of a timeless silhouette. It brings emotion to engineering, warmth to precision, and a renewed sense of individuality to a collection that has long stood for universal elegance.
It’s a reminder that even within the disciplined world of Rolex, art and feeling still have their place.
Technical Specifications
Model: Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 (Ref. 278288RBR) Case: 31 mm Oyster case in 18 ct yellow gold, diamond-set bezel Dial: Red ombré with sunray finish, 10 diamond hour markers Movement: Calibre 2236, self-winding mechanical, Syloxi hairspring Power Reserve: Approximately 55 hours Water Resistance: 100 metres / 330 feet Bracelet: President, 18 ct yellow gold with concealed Crownclasp
Final Impression
The 2025 Rolex Datejust 31 with red ombré dial encapsulates the duality of light and emotion, elegance and endurance. With its distinctive color gradient, exquisite gem-setting, and technological mastery, it transcends the boundaries of timekeeping to become wearable art.
In a world of fleeting trends, Rolex once again proves that true innovation lies not in change, but in evolution.
A redesigned case for a more vintage look inspired by the codes of a 1950s model.
The Clifton collection carries forward its quest for stylistic and technical excellence. Passion, imagination, ingenuity, precision and superb crafting are the creative forces behind Baume & Mercier, a legacy that has endured for 195 years. This unique style and watchmaking expertise – sought out and recognized by the modern gentleman who appreciates refinement and precision – is the focus of this collection, launched in 2013.
The models presented at Watches & Wonders 2025 (the Clifton Baumatic M0A10802, M0A10778, and M0A10771) reveal the new design of the iconic round case. The proportions have been slimmed down, the finishes reworked. Three other Clifton Baumatic watches (M0A10773, M0A10792, and M0A10793) complete the range, including two that feature an elegant and innovative metal bracelet specially designed to seamlessly integrate into the new case.
The launch of these three new pieces will take place in September. It is a prime time for renewal, like the spirit which animates the Clifton: inspired and driven by challenges. More luxurious, modern and trendy, these are the not-to-be-missed timepieces of the fall. With them, Baume & Mercier brings a new design to each of life’s little moments. It is a precious companion combining functionality, aesthetics, and emotion.
Timepieces conceived for the discerning, refined modern gentleman
His attraction to elegant, impeccably crafted fine mechanics draws him to these timepieces, and no refined feature of their artistry escapes his expert eye and technical knowledge. Much like an industrial designer who appreciates the beauty of a meticulously designed automobile with flawless mechanical precision, he is drawn to structured lines, clean cuts and curves, harmonious proportions and volumes, noble materials, exceptional performance, precision, and reliability. He knows how to recognize a perfectly executed object, placing great importance on even the slightest detail since he understands that each one makes a difference. Each demonstrates the distinction of Baume & Mercier and its remarkable, exacting watchmaking heritage.
This stylish man wears more than just a watch. He wears a signature, a story, a craft… and a status. The Clifton on his wrist is an object of desire, chosen with the eye of a true connoisseur. It gives him the quiet confidence and special presence to which he aspires: subtle yet unmistakable. He has an intimate bond with his timepiece: a shared sense of creativity, authenticity, and excellence. These very values were championed by William Baume, the brilliant watchmaker, and Paul Mercier, the art enthusiast who brought the Maison its stylistic vision. Since then, the Maison has offered high-end Swiss watchmaking: bold in design, sincere in craftsmanship, and innovative in technique. At once classic and contemporary, the Clifton collection has made its mark with a round case defined by taut lines, sculpted curves, and meticulously studied proportions. This refined showcase is inspired by the 1950s, echoing the discerning taste and polished manners of the true gentleman. It bears the signature of ideal proportions and natural balance symbolized by the Greek letter Phi, which the Brand adopted as its emblem in 1964.
Clifton 10771
Clifton 10771
A redesigned case and a new metal bracelet in tribute to the timeless elegance of the 1950s
The Clifton collection returns in a new 39 mm size, a diameter previously reserved for models featuring a moon phase complication. Until now, Clifton three-hand watches were available in 40 mm, but they are now produced in a 39 mm version. This new iteration of the Clifton has been refined with polished and satin-brushed finishes.
It introduces design elements that pay tribute to the timeless elegance of the historic 1950s model: a domed sapphire crystal, a discreetly integrated crown, the return of the Arabic numeral at 12 o’clock, a date aperture at 6 o’clock, and a crosshair design at the center of the dial.
The light-hued dials feature a new off-white grained finish complemented by 5N gold-tone accents. Baume & Mercier has gone a step further in its client-centric approach to watchmaking which drives it to design and craft timepieces according to client expectations. The Clifton collection introduces a new metal bracelet, marking a significant evolution in both aesthetics and ergonomics. The bracelet, featuring three rows of short, semi-circular links, creates a fluid silhouette on the wrist while offering enhanced comfort. Its design draws inspiration from vintage watchmaking codes while maintaining a contemporary feel aligned with the collection’s identity.
The updated construction and well-balanced proportions ensure seamless integration with the newly redesigned case, enhancing its overall visual harmony and reinforcing the Clifton signature look. The carefully calibrated interplay of polished and satin-brushed finishes preserves the refined sophistication and versatile character of this timepiece, while the interchangeable system adds extra flexibility for everyday wear.
The metal bracelet offers essential technical performance features. Crafted in stainless steel – a particularly durable material, it is resistant to heat, humidity, scratches, impacts, and daily wear. A testament to longevity, it is easy to care for and remains radiant over time. The new Clifton metal bracelet is interchangeable, featuring a system that allows it to be replaced without the need for tools. It fastens with a triple folding clasp in stainless steel with security push-pieces, ensuring both comfort and durability.
Clifton 10773
Clifton 10773
The models fitted with alligator leather straps now feature a new interchangeable triple folding clasp. The harmony between case and strap, the attention to design and finishing, and the balance of proportions and volumes all illustrate Baume & Mercier’s fine watchmaking expertise in its most nuanced form. Inventiveness, thoughtfulness, pertinence, pragmatism, boldness, and passion lie at the heart of this creation.
A high-performance watchmaking mechanism
Developed at the Baume & Mercier workshops in Les Brenets, in the Swiss Jura, the Baumatic Manufacture movement was unveiled in 2018. It superbly embodies the Maison’s motto: “Accept only perfection. Only manufacture watches of the highest quality.” Its cutting-edge technology, proven through rigorous testing, breathes life into the new Clifton Baumatic M0A10802, M0A10778, M0A10771, M0A10773, M0A10792, and
M0A10793.
With resistance to everyday magnetic fields up to 1,500 Gauss, a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vph), remarkable autonomy thanks to a 5-day (120-hour) power reserve, and water resistance up to 5 ATM (approximately 50meters), these timepieces meet the highest standards of excellence sought by discerning connoisseurs for whom such performance features are essential expectations.
The sapphire crystal case back on each model reveals the magnificent beauty of the movement, including circular-grained bridges, a sandblasted and snailed baseplate, an openworked gold-tone oscillating weight with snailed Côtes de Genève decorations, and a unique Baume & Mercier engraving.
These six timepieces, like all Baumatics, benefit from a six-year warranty extension in addition to the standard 2 years of the international warranty. Simply register it on the Baume & Mercier website within 60 days after the purchase: www.baume-et-mercier.com.
Clifton 10792
Clifton, the sought-after dandy chic lifestyle
Beyond the collection itself, the Clifton name evokes the renowned seaside destination in Cape Town, South Africa, and its elegant, laid-back spirit. Both embody the discerning, refined choices of an aesthete who carefully selects both the watch of his dreams and the idyllic escape that reflects his aspirations. He is captivated by this breathtaking natural setting where the Atlantic Ocean meets luxurious cliffside villas with sweeping panoramic views. He is drawn to the vibrant interplay of coastal and mountain landscapes; the gentle rhythm of life in this peaceful, cosmopolitan haven; and breathtaking escapades in the sea spray aboard sleek, boldly innovative yachts crafted by visionary designers. He savors time: his time.
Clifton 10778
Clifton 10778
Clifton Baumatic M0A10773
Its design, shaped by both softness and tension, plays on contrasting forms and complementary opposites. The pairing of steel and gold, off-white and black, underscores this duality for a dynamic, striking color composition.
The off-white dial, with its retro accents and grained texture, offers a particularly mellow time display, subtly textured to add depth and warmth to both the time and calendar indications. The slender, elongated black central crosshair alternates with the restrained black peripheral minute track, subtly accentuated at five-minute intervals. The trapezoidal hour markers are riveted, gold-toned, faceted, and slightly elongated. An Arabic numeral appears at 12 o’clock. The alpha-shaped hour and minute hands are gold-plated and faceted, and the seconds hand is also gold-plated. An aperture displays the date at 6 o’clock.
The sculptural round case measures an ideal 39 mm in diameter and 11.22 mm in thickness. Protected by a scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal treated on both sides with an anti-glare coating, the case, like the crown, is crafted in polished and satin-finished stainless steel. The sapphire crystal case back, secured by four screws, may be custom-engraved. The beautiful and precise Baumatic Manufacture automatic movement (BM13-1975A) beats at the heart of this timepiece.
The model features an interchangeable strap crafted in brown alligator leather with all-square scales and tone- on-tone overstitching on the top, a beige lining with ocher overstitching on the underside, and bar tacks around the buckle. It may be replaced without the use of tools thanks to a very reliable spring bar system. It fastens with a triple folding clasp in stainless steel with security push-pieces.
Clifton Baumatic M0A10792
Its luminous dial is enhanced by subtle shades of blue in a gradation that is lighter at the center and darker around the perimeter of the watch. The lacquered finish adds a great deal of sophistication. Standing out in contrast against this deep, carefully crafted decoration are the slender, crisp white central seconds track; slightly elongated riveted, rhodium-plated, faceted trapezoidal indexes; faceted, rhodium-plated alpha-shaped hour and minute hands; and rhodium-plated seconds hand. The dial is framed by a white minute track. The date appears in a large aperture at 6 o’clock. The hour at 12 o’clock is indicated by an Arabic numeral in a more rounded shape reflecting that of the case.
Measuring 39 mm in diameter and 11.22 mm in thickness, the case, like the crown, is made of polished and satin-finished stainless steel. It is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-glare coating on both sides. The case back is fastened with four screws and protected by a sapphire crystal. It may be engraved.
The high level of technical achievement for this timepiece culminates in the self-winding Baumatic Manufacture movement (BM13-1975A). The integrated three-row bracelet in satin-finished stainless steel is a harmonious extension of the case. It is interchangeable and features a reliable spring bar system that allows it to be changed without the use of tools. It fastens with a triple folding clasp in stainless steel with security push-pieces.
Clifton Baumatic M0A10793
This model, in a version fitted with the new metal bracelet, is identical to the Clifton Baumatic M0A10773, which has an alligator leather strap.
It features the same beautifully styled design, delicately detailed down to the smallest elements. The off-white dial forms a harmonious backdrop with a textured finish that enhances its depth. Radiance and clarity characterize the time display, arranged around the slender central black crosshair and black minute track.
Features include slightly elongated riveted, gold-toned, faceted trapezoidal indexes; an Arabic numeral at 12 o’clock; gold, faceted alpha-shaped hour and minute hands; and a gold seconds hand. The date is easy to read in an aperture at 6 o’clock.
The Clifton’s polished and satin-finished stainless steel case lends its curves and rounded contours to this timepiece with a 39 mm diameter and 11.22 mm thickness. Protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-glare coating on both sides, it features a sapphire case back which is secured by four screws and may be custom-engraved. The crown is also made of polished and satin-finished stainless steel.
The self-winding Baumatic (BM13-1975A) Manufacture movement is the driving force behind this luxury watch. Perfectly suited to the case’s refined dimensions, the redesigned integrated three-row bracelet in polished and satin-finished stainless steel is interchangeable. A system allows it to be removed and reattached without tools. Its stainless steel triple folding clasp is equipped with safety push-pieces.
Clifton Baumatic M0A10802
With a diameter of 39 mm and a thickness of 11.2 mm, the iconic domed round case is crafted in satin-finished rose gold (750/1000). It is protected by a scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal treated on both sides with an anti-glare coating. The crown is crafted in rose gold (750/1000). The sapphire crystal back may be engraved upon request.
The subtle off-white hue adds to the more retro inspiration of the dial. The grained finish confers a special texture, intensifying the radiance of the color and the depth of the decor, offering even more warmth. The finesse of its finish brings it to life. Edged by a black minute track and criss-crossed by black crosshairs in the center, the dial reveals 5N gold-plated, riveted, faceted, slightly elongated trapezoidal indexes, and is topped with an Arabic numeral at 12 o’clock. The alpha-shaped hour and minute hands are 5N gold-plated and faceted. The seconds hand is gold-tone. A wide aperture at 3 o’clock displays the date.
The self-winding Baumatic (BM13-1975A) Manufacture movement is the driving force behind this luxury watch. It is water-resistant to 5 ATM (approximately 50 m).
The strap is crafted in brown alligator leather with all-square scales and tone-on-tone overstitching on the top, a beige lining with ocher overstitching on the underside, and bar tacks around the buckle. This interchangeable strap is equipped with a very reliable spring bar system that makes it possible to change it without the use of tools. It fastens with a 5N gold-tone PVD steel pin buckle. The gold of this model weighs an estimated 23.20 g.
Clifton Baumatic M0A10778 – Limited edition of 350
The bright opaline salmon-hued dial sculpts each hour and calendar indication. This shade has a vintage charm filled with softness and warmth that was very sought-after in the 1930s and 1940s. The meticulous color work in pursuit of the ideal tone between rose and peach, and the perfect intensity between radiance and depth, reveals a timepiece with timeless refinement that immediately captivates the eye. The riveted, faceted, rhodium-plated indexes are shaped like elongated trapezoids. An Arabic numeral appears at 12 o’clock. The faceted, rhodium-plated hour and minute hands are alpha-shaped.
The oxidized black seconds hand offers a delicate contrast. The date appears in a wide aperture at 6 o’clock. The black minute track frames the dial.
The new proportions – a diameter of 39 mm and a thickness of 11.2 mm – bring finesse to the round case, crafted in satin-finished stainless steel like the crown. It is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-glare coating on both sides. Fastened with four screws and covered by a sapphire crystal, the case back bears the special engraving “Limited Edition One Of 350.” It may be engraved.
The high level of technical achievement for this timepiece culminates in the self-winding Baumatic Manufacture movement (BM13-1975A). It is water-resistant to 5 ATM (approximately 50 m).
The interchangeable strap is crafted in black calfskin with tone-on-tone overstitching on the top. It may easily be changed without the need for tools thanks to a very reliable spring bar system. The watch comes with an additional interchangeable strap in beige calfskin. Both straps feature an interchangeable triple folding clasp in stainless steel with security push-pieces.
Clifton Baumatic M0A10771
The blue dial of this timepiece, with its subtle gradation – darker around the edges and lighter in the center – emanates character, depth and refinement. A lacquered finish enhances its nuances. This gleaming blue decor creates a striking background for the contrasting white crosshairs, hour markers, and date indications. The riveted, faceted, rhodium-plated indexes are shaped like elongated trapezoids. An Arabic numeral appears at 12 o’clock. The alpha-shaped hour and minute hands are faceted and rhodium-plated. The seconds hand is oxidized black. The dial is framed by a white minute track. The date appears in a wide aperture at 6 o’clock.
With a diameter of 39 mm and a thickness of 11.2 mm, the round case – like the crown – is crafted in satin- finished stainless steel. It is protected by a scratch-resistant domed sapphire crystal treated on both sides with an anti-glare coating. The case back is fastened with four screws and protected by a sapphire crystal. It may be custom-engraved.
A self-winding Baumatic Manufacture movement (BM13-1975A) powers this particularly durable, reliable timepiece. It is water-resistant to 5 ATM (approximately 50 m).
The interchangeable strap is crafted in blue alligator leather with all-square scales, tone-on-tone overstitching on the top, a beige lining with bordeaux overstitching on the underside, and bar tacks around the buckle. It may be replaced without the use of tools thanks to a very reliable spring bar system. The interchangeable triple folding buckle in stainless steel is equipped with security push-pieces.
The Clifton collection is writing a new chapter in its story. Through this new aesthetic, it masterfully carries forward the spirit and design of Baume & Mercier.
Masterlink Gem-Set: The last asymmetric vision reimagined
Gerald Charles proudly presents the Masterlink Gem-Set Limited
Edition, a luxurious update of the brand’s asymmetric integrated bracelet watch. For the first time, gem- setting is introduced into this collection, reflecting Mr. Gérald Charles Genta’s spirit of “Artistic Creativity, Technical Mastery.”
Each version of this new release features a silver dial, and a white gold bezel set with 60 baguette-cut sapphires or tsavorites. Each colour is limited to just 10 pieces worldwide.
Each bezel is adorned with gemstones of the highest purity, invisibly set to create a seamless surface of brilliance. Due to the Maestro’s asymmetrical case shape, each stone is custom-cut, and the reduced metal surface posed a significant challenge, solved by in-house engineering innovations.
The evolution of the last known integrated asymmetric bracelet designed by Mr. Gérald Charles Genta.
The Masterlink follows the legacy of the Sarawak, a unique timepiece created by Mr. Genta in 2007 for the Royal Family of Sarawak. With over 15 carats of precious stones – round diamonds and baguette rubies – and valued at over €1 million, the Sarawak marked Genta’s only known asymmetric integrated
bracelet watch, until now.
“The Sarawak is the first and only known asymmetric integrated bracelet timepiece created by Mr. Genta, and from its legacy began the journey that led to the Masterlink – the first asymmetric integrated bracelet watch available on the market today,” notes CEO Federico Ziviani.
The DNA of the Masterlink identity: asymmetric case shape, flawless integrated bracelet and singular finishings
The name Masterlink clearly reflects the Maison’s intent to maintain a strong connection with the founder’s creative vision – reinforcing this aim by incorporating links into the original design.
The identity of the Masterlink is defined by a harmonious blend of design, innovation, and craftsmanship. It begins with its asymmetric case shape (38mm), a refined evolution of the iconic Maestro silhouette, which retains the signature ‘smile’ at 6 o’clock, the Maison’s signature.
Equally distinctive is the integrated bracelet, the first of its kind for the Maison. Designed with hidden screws and a concealed butterfly clasp, it achieves a seamless look while ensuring exceptional ergonomic comfort on the wrist.
“Our aim was to let simplicity conceal complexity,” explains Federico Ziviani. “Showcasing a watch’s complexity isn’t too challenging. ”.
At 6 o’clock, the central links initially follow the curve of the ‘smile’, then gradually straighten out, while at 12 o’clock they extend the case and bezel’s straight topline. “We have created, as only few others have, a truly asymmetrical bracelet in haute horlogerie,” adds Federico Ziviani.
Completing the timepiece is a dedication to finishing excellence. The central link is vertically brushed to echo the direction of the dial’s Côtes de Genève motif, drawing inspiration from the elegance of Italian pinstriped tailoring and reinforcing the watch’s refined aesthetic. The dial itself features a linear relief motif, which is not stamped. Instead, it is constructed from two separate levels, layered to create true depth and sophistication.
Refined Engineering and Finishing
Despite its slim 7.9 mm profile, the watch features a screw-down crown with a Clou de Paris motif. The dial uses a two-level construction for added depth, while the case back reveals a finely finished micro- rotor movement with a total thickness of just 2.7 mm. Water-resistant to 100 meters and Ergonteq-certified for optimal ergonomics, the Masterlink remains versatile enough for everyday wear, even with gemstones.
Designed for Today’s Discreet Luxury
“This is not an ostentatious piece, but the ultimate in discreet luxury,” says CEO Federico Ziviani. “Luxury means comfort, and the Masterlink is designed to feel perfect, no matter the occasion—even while swimming.” With vivid gemstones and exceptional craftsmanship, the Masterlink Gem-Set brings radiant colour and enduring elegance to the wrist, while honoring the timeless vision of its founder.
Technical Information
Watch name: Masterlink Gem Set References: ML1.0-SSPS-WG31-18GS-SBCL (blue gem set)
ML1.0-SSPS-WG32-18GS-SBCL (red gem set
ML1.0-SSPS-WG43-18GS-SBCL (green gem set) Case: Exclusively developed in-house, proprietary design by Gerald Charles
316L stainless steel, medical grade
Polished and satin-brushed finishes
31 components Bezel: White gold bezel with 60 blue sapphires / red sapphires / tsavorites baguettes Diameter: 38 mm x 38 mm
Right-hand screw-down crown with Clous de Paris finish Movement: Swiss Manufacture 1.0 caliber
Automatic extra-thin micro-rotor Functions: Central display of hours and minutes Finishings: Bridges decorated with snailing, Côtes de Genève and circular graining Thickness: 2.67mm Components: 176 Jewels: 29 rubies Frequency: 3 Hz Power reserve: 50 hours Crystal: Sapphire with inner and outer multi-layer anti-reflective coating Dial: Silver, double layered: vertical sunburst finish and applied vertical stripes
Skeletonized baton-shaped hands
13 blue sapphires / red sapphires / tsavorites hours indexes Case back: Open, flat, brushed steel and sapphire crystal Bracelet: Exclusively developed in-house, proprietary design by Gerald Charles
316L stainless steel, medical grade 3 sizes: 157 mm (small), 205 mm (medium) and 222 mm (large)
Micro-link available for finer adjustment of bracelet
Polished and satin-brushed finishes
Folding clasp with hexagonal plate, engraved with ‘GC’
Hidden external pushers integrated in the last 2 clasp links Water resistance: 10 ATM, equivalent to 100 metres Thickness: 7.99 mm Warranty: 2 years (extendable to 5 years following the ‘Smart Warranty ’system registration) Limited edition: 10 pcs each
Retail price Upon request
For the first time in its 288-year history, Favre Leuba introduces a fully skeletonized timepiece: the Chief Skeleton.
This striking model showcases the brand’s signature cushion-shaped case and a meticulously open worked manufacture movement, developed in collaboration with AMT.
Building on the momentum of the brand’s first-ever tourbillon – the Chief Tourbillon – presented earlier this year, the Chief Skeleton marks another major step in Favre Leuba’s ongoing journey.
The Chief Skeleton is offered in two variations: a gold-finished movement paired with a brushed and polished case, and an anthracite-finished movement housed in a DLC-coated black steel case.
“2025 is about maintaining the momentum and continuing to build on Favre Leuba’s pioneering legacy,” says Patrik Hoffmann, Chairman of Favre Leuba. “We introduce some of the most technically intricate and visually striking timepieces in our history. After our first-ever tourbillon presented earlier this year, we show a natural progression today with the Chief Skeleton, our first skeletonized model, inspired by the original Chief case design of the 1970s. These creations honor our heritage while marking significant milestones in our long history as one of the oldest watchmakers.”
A Modern Take on the Classic Skeleton
The Chief Skeleton retains the iconic cushion-shaped case of the Chief Collection, now given a presence all its own with the fully skeletonized movement it houses. Every component and aspect – bridge, gear, and aperture – is precisely crafted to ensure both architectural balance and visual elegance.
With its combination of brushed and polished finishes, the 40mm case creates a dynamic play of light, shadow, and texture. This mesmerizing effect is further enhanced by the curved sapphire crystal, where the anti-reflective coating improves visibility, providing a clear view of the openworked movement from every angle.
Revealing Favre Leuba’s First Skeleton Movement
The custom-designed skeleton movement—finished in gold or anthracite—juxtaposes different textures, each contributing a distinct visual element. Snailing, a technique where a rotating tool creates a spiral pattern, adds a refined circular texture that enhances the movement’s depth and elegance. This intricate finish, along with satin and sandblasted surfaces, creates a dramatic visual display, drawing the eye to explore the openworked movement.
The multi-layered movement architecture includes a semi-exposed mainspring barrel at 12 o’clock and a balance wheel at 6 o’clock. The balance wheel bridge, with its horizontal brushing, is an exclusive Favre Leuba design that underscores the brand’s commitment to exceptional craftsmanship.
Operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the movement provides a 41-hour power reserve. The skeletonized rotor features a satin finish and an engraved Favre Leuba wordmark. In the anthracite version, the rotor is coated with a matching black chrome (DLC) finish, creating a seamless visual connection with the case.
The open worked design not only reduces weight but also enhances the visibility of the movement, emphasizing the transparency of the watch’s mechanics.
Variants and Versatility
The Chief Skeleton is available in two configurations:
Steel case withgold-finished movement – featuring either a green, blue, or black minute track, matched with a corresponding FKM rubber strap.
Black DLC case with anthracite-finished movement – featuring either a green, blue, black, or ice blue minute track, matched with a corresponding FKM rubber strap.
An integrated quick-change mechanism ensures effortless transitions between strap and bracelet, enhancing the watch’s versatility and adaptability to any occasion.
With the Chief Skeleton, Favre Leuba redefines the art of skeletonization, presenting a timepiece that seamlessly merges bold design with masterful craftsmanship. This launch marks a defining moment in the brand’s rich history, taking a bold step forward in its commitment to horological excellence.
Rolex has chosen to introduce its very first ceramic dial on an 18 ct white gold version of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. In the same material, with the same green colour and the same lustre, this Cerachrom dial and the daytime half of the green and black bezel insert echo each other perfectly.
The perfect match
Rolex is introducing its first-ever dial made of high-technology ceramic. This inaugural green Cerachrom component makes its debut on an Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II with winding crown on the left side of the case and date aperture at 9 o’clock, a version which additionally, this year, is presented in 18 ct white gold.
The new Cerachrom dial – created in the same way as dials in natural stone, by fitting a disc of material onto a brass plate – displays the same shade of green as the lower half of the two-colour green and black Cerachrom bezel insert that frames the watch face.This perfect tonal harmony, which remains true under all lighting conditions, is achieved by using the same type of ceramic to produce both elements.
This new version of the GMT-Master II is mounted on an Oyster bracelet equipped with an Oysterlock safety clasp.
The GMT-Master II is driven by calibre 3285, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling it to display the date and an additional time zone in 24-hour format, as well as the hours, minutes and seconds.
Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.
One instrument, several time zones
Designed as a navigation aid for professionals criss-crossing the globe, the GMT-Master became the watch of choice for travellers. It has a unique and instantly recognizable design with a bidirectional rotatable bezel and a 24-hour graduated insert, which has been made available in single-colour versions as well as in various dual-colour combinations – the lower half symbolizing daytime hours and the upper signalling night-time hours. The GMT-Master, a true ‘tool watch’, has evolved continually to offer increasing technical performance. In 1982, Rolex unveiled the
GMT-Master II, with a movement allowing the hour hand to be set independently of the other hands.
With traditional hour, minute and seconds hands, a triangle- tipped 24-hour hand, and a bidirectional rotatable bezel with 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert, the GMT-Master II can display the time in two time zones simultaneously: either the local time and a reference time, or the local time and that of an alternative time zone. The date is synchronized with the local time.
High-technology ceramic
Rolex played a pioneering role in the development of special ceramics to create particular elements of its watch cases – notably monobloc bezels and monobloc bezel inserts. Not only are these materials particularly scratch resistant, their colours are also of a rare intensity and are resistant to environmental effects. In addition, thanks to their chemical composition, the high-tech ceramics are inert and cannot corrode. The brand has developed exclusive expertise and innovative manufacturing methods that grant it complete independence in the production of these ceramic components.
On the new version of the GMT-Master II, the bidirectional rotatable bezel is fitted with a two-colour, 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert in green and black ceramic. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with platinum via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The bezel’s knurled edge offers excellent grip and can be manipulated with ease.
The Oyster case, symbol of waterproofness
A paragon of robustness and reliability, the 40 mm Oyster case of the GMT-Master II is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). The middle case of the version presented is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct white gold. Its case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool employed by approved watchmakers. The Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, which features a Cyclops lens for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses.
Calibre 3285
The GMT-Master II is powered by calibre 3285, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2018 and introduced on the model the same year. A distillation of technology, this self-winding mechanical movement delivers outstanding performance, particularly in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.
Calibre 3285 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorous, this escapement is resistant to strong magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with a blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in
a paramagnetic alloy. The hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is mounted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, further enhancing the movement’s shock resistance.
Calibre 3285 is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of this movement extends to approximately 70 hours.
Oyster bracelet and Oysterlock safety clasp
The GMT-Master II in 18 ct white gold with a green Cerachrom dial matched with the green and black Cerachrom bezel insert is fitted on an Oyster bracelet. Developed in the late 1930s, this three-piece link metal bracelet is known for its robustness.
The Oyster bracelet of the GMT-Master II is furnished with the Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. It also includes the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by Rolex, that allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. On the version presented, it includes patented ceramic inserts – designed by the brand – inside the links to enhance its flexibility on the wrist and its longevity.
Superlative Chronometer certification
Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, following the official certification of the movements by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). These in-house certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding.
The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2 /+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone.
The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.
Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
Case reference
126729 VTNR
Bracelet reference
79209 Oyster
Category
Oyster Perpetual Professional
Certification
Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)
International five-year guarantee
Case
Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Safety
Integral crown guard Measurements
Measurements
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 11.90 mm – Lug width: 20 mm
Material
18 ct white gold Middle case
18 ct white gold, satin finish with polished sides
Bezel
18 ct white gold, bidirectional rotatable
24-hour graduated monobloc two-colour
Cerachrom insert in green and black ceramic; moulded, recessed graduations and numerals coated with platinum via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition)
Case back
18 ct white gold, solid, screw-down with fine fluting
Winding crown
Triplock in 18 ct white gold, screw-down, triple waterproofness system
Crystal
Scratch-resistant sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Cyclops lens over the date
with double anti-reflective coating
Waterproofness
100 metres (330 feet)
Movement Dial
Calibre 3285, Manufacture Rolex
Mechanical movement with bidirectional
self-winding via Perpetual rotor
Precision
−2/+2 sec./day, after casing Functions
Functions
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands – Local time via conventional hands,
independent rapid-setting of the hour hand
Reference time via additional 24-hour hand
Instantaneous date at 9 o’clock, secure setting via the hour hand
Stop-seconds for exact time setting
Oscillator
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring – Rolex overcoil
Large balance wheel with variable inertia – High-precision regulating via four gold
Microstella nuts
Traversing balance bridge
High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers
Dial
Cerachrom in green ceramic
Hour markers in 18 ct white gold,
highly legible Chromalight (long-lasting
luminescence, blue glow)
Hands in 18 ct white gold,
highly legible Chromalight (long-lasting luminescence, blue glow)
Escapement
Chronergy with optimized energy efficiency – Paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus pallet fork and escape wheel
Jewelling
31 rubies
Power reserve
Approximately 70 hours
Bracelet
Oyster, three-piece solid links
18 ct white gold, polished centre links,
satin-finished outer links with polished edges;
ceramic inserts
Oysterlock folding safety clasp in
18 ct white gold
Easylink comfort extension link (approx. 5 mm)
