Some watchmakers count the hours. Van Cleef & Arpels turns them into poetry.
At Watches & Wonders 2025, the Maison brought together its two greatest strengths — mechanical mastery and storytelling — in a showcase that felt more like a dream than a product launch. Love, starlight, Parisian romance, and precious craftsmanship came together in a collection that didn’t just measure time, but made you feel it.
Pont des Amoureux: The Lovers’ Bridge
This year, the beating heart of the presentation was an expanded chapter in one of Van Cleef & Arpels’ most beloved tales — Pont des Amoureux.
Four new editions — Aube (dawn), Matinée (morning), Soirée (evening), and Clair de Lune (moonlight) — each capture a different moment in the day’s emotional arc.
On the dial, a man and a woman begin their journey from opposite ends of a Parisian bridge. Every hour brings them closer, until they meet for a kiss at noon and midnight. The movement behind this ballet is a double retrograde mechanism, but the effect is pure theatre. Collectors can also press a button to bring the moment to life on demand, because some love stories deserve to be replayed.
Even the bracelets play a part in the narrative — their gemstone gradients shifting in tone to reflect the changing light of the sky.
Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate: Dancing in the Moonlight
If Pont des Amoureux is a quiet anticipation, Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate is its celebration. The scene is a Parisian dance hall bathed in lantern light. A couple, hand in hand, begin a waltz.
At the touch of a button, they move — slowly, gracefully — until the dance ends with an embrace. Time is read in two star-shaped retrograde displays in the upper corners, leaving the central stage free for the lovers. The backdrop, crafted in layers of grisaille enamel and sculpted gold, has the depth and atmosphere of a painting. Available in white gold, with the option of diamond-set cases and straps, it is as much a jewel as it is a watch.
Automatons Beyond the Wrist
The Maison’s flair for animation isn’t confined to wristwatches. Two extraordinary automata brought an entirely different scale to the artistry.
Naissance de l’Amour — Cupid emerges from a feathered shell, his enamel wings beating as a melody plays. Made from materials like petrified wood, pink opal, and iron-eye stone, it’s a celebration of the first spark of love.
Planétarium Automaton — A miniature solar system in motion, with all eight planets orbiting a radiant sun at their true speeds. A shooting star marks the passing time while music underscores the celestial choreography.
When Jewellery Becomes Time
Van Cleef & Arpels also revisited two icons from its high jewellery archives:
Cadenas — First created in 1935, this padlock-shaped design returns in yellow gold, snow-set diamonds, and sapphire accents. Its discreet, slanted dial remains a hallmark for those who prefer to keep their time private.
Ruban Mystérieux — A flowing ribbon of gems, hiding a mystery-set dial beneath a 3.72-carat diamond. It’s jewellery first, watch second — yet both at once.
The Poetry of Time
For Van Cleef & Arpels, a watch is never just a watch. It’s a scene, a mood, a memory in motion. At Watches & Wonders 2025, the Maison showed us that precision is only half the magic. The other half is the ability to make a moment linger — to let you wear a love story, a starlit sky, or a ribbon of light on your wrist.
Because in the end, time is only as beautiful as the way we choose to tell it.
PEQUIGNET presents, at a preview showing for Watches & Wonders fair, a completely redesigned Royale Paris with a diameter of 39.5mm.
Since its launch in 2011, this watch, designed to house the prestigious Calibre Royal®, has become the emblem of the Franc-Comtoise Manufacture. By reinterpreting the Royale Paris, PEQUIGNET offers a watch both aesthetic and technical, appealing to enthusiasts of French high watchmaking.
EXCEPTIONAL CALIBRE, EXCEPTIONAL WATCH!
All the parts of the new Royale Paris (case, dial, bezel, hands) have been refined with special attention put on the finishing. The same level of craftsmanship has been applied to every detail of this watch, just as it was for its renowned movement.
The new Royale Paris meets the stylistic and technical requirements of the Manufacture, presenting itself as the perfect setting for the Calibre Royal®.
This new Royale Paris symbolizes the expertise and high standards of an ambitious French watchmaking tradition.AN EVEN MORE
REFINED APPEARANCE
Subtly and delicately reshaped, the new Royale Paris enhances its elegant and timeless style. The diameter of its case has been slightly reduced to 39.5 mm from the previous 41 mm.
This new model comes in two exceptional variants:
– The Day-Date-Moon phase version, available in three dial colors: opaline, royal blue, and green.
– The Power Reserve-Small Seconds version available in two colors: opaline and royal blue.
The Royale Paris collection is the only one from the PEQUIGNET manufacture to feature attached lugs. Considered as a strong identity sign, they are retained for this new model. A significant refinement work has been carried out. Their volume has been sculpted, providing a brushed finish on the top and a polished finish on the side faces. Then, a more precise finish has been applied to the softened inward angles. These details give this new Royale Paris a stronger line.
A REDESIGNED CASE
The case of the new Royale Paris has been finely reworked. Its more sculpted profile now features a concave hollow with the shape of a “gouge”, which runs around the entire perimeter of the dial.
Its flanks have been delicately recessed out to refine its silhouette and give it a geometry that combines strength and style. The slimmed- down bezel of 0.75 mm opens the dial more generously, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. The slightly domed sapphire “glass box”, treated with anti-reflective coating, also significantly contributes to the overall elegance of the watch. The thickness remains unchanged to accommodate the Calibre Royal®.
On this new Royale Paris, screws securely fasten the bezel and the case back, ensuring a high-quality finish. This designing allows for potential disassembly for long-lasting high-end watchmaking.
A DIAL THAT PLAYS WITH TEXTURES AND RELIEFS
The dial of the Royale Paris showcases a harmonious juxtaposition of textures and finishes. Its surface is textured, while the “gouge” is sandblasted and the small seconds counter is recessed and grooved with concentric circles. The rail-track follows the gouge, adding graceful depth. The faceted, satin-finished, and polished baton indices, along with the windows bordered by a polished steel thread, reflect the care taken with every detail. These multiple finishes add dimension to the whole and bring an extra touch of sophistication.
This Royale Paris features a unique representation of the moon phase complication from PEQUIGNET. For the first time, the moon is stylized in its two hemispheres: north and south. To achieve a more luminous effect, the moon windows have undergone diamond polishing.
Two grooves frame the hemispheres to provide greater depth to the dial. Always striving to refine every detail, the representation of the moon is inspired by a real photograph. It harmoniously matches with the color of the dial (except for the opaline version).
The new Royale Paris is equipped with interchangeable straps available in various materials. Starting in September, the watch will even be able to be worn with a metal strap. A significant first for this model.
A REMARKABLE FRENCH ® MOVEMENT: THE CALIBRE ROYAL
With its 318 components, the Calibre Royal® is the first French-made movement to place its watch complications on the same plate. It is subject to 8 international patents.
The Calibre Royal® features a single large barrel that offers an improved power reserve, now reaching 96 hours, against 88 hours previously. Comfortable! It is displayed at 8 o’clock on a 96-hour graduated gauge.
This automatic movement is equipped with a unique bidirectional winding system via the oscillating weight and a large diamond-shaped balance wheel with high inertia. Its double large aperture for the big date and day with instantaneous jump on the same axis allows for adjustments at any time.
Like all PEQUIGNET movements, the Calibre Royal® is designed and developed in-house. It is hand-assembled in the workshops of Morteau. All its components are sourced from within 80 km of the Manufacture.
Like the other three in-house movements, the Calibre Royal® undergoes rigorous adjustments to achieve chronometric precision, with the daily amplitude of operation being between -4 and +6 seconds. This exceptional precision guarantees an average of +2 or -2 seconds per day, thus meeting the most demanding criteria in terms of chronometry.
This new Royale Paris highlights the expertise of the PEQUIGNET Manufacture and the attention to detail in the art of high-end watchmaking.
ROYALE PARIS – 39.5 MM 9100633
CASE
Diameter: 39.5 mm
Polished and satin finish stainless steel
Domed glass box anti-reflective sapphire crystal Crown with embossed “fleur de lys” logo
Bezel secured with screws
Moon corrector at 8.30
DIAL
Graining texture (marked grains) with gouge
Color: Silver
Embossed rhodium-plated logo
Bevelled indices with polished and satin finish surface Power reserve with one hand at 8.00
Small second at 3.30 with polished and satin finish flange Double moon at 6.00 with diamond polishing on both displays
Fitted polished large date display
Realistic moon with the northern and southern hemispheres Polished steel hours and minutes hands with Super Luminova TC1 (blue), polished steel seconds and power reserve hands
MOVEMENT®
Calibre Royal
Frequency of 21 600 Alt./h
96-hour power reserve
39 jewels
Sunray and rhodium oscillating weight lys 3N Large balance with compensating screws
WATERRESISTANCE /THICKNESS
5ATM/11.50mm
LUDG WITDH / LUG TO LUG
20mm/47mm
CASEBACK
Secured by 6 screws sapphire opening on the movement
STRAP
Light brown alligator
CLASP
Steel folding clasp
EUROPE RETAIL PRICE INCL. TAX
Starting from € 8 000
Rolex has chosen to introduce its very first ceramic dial on an 18 ct white gold version of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. In the same material, with the same green colour and the same lustre, this Cerachrom dial and the daytime half of the green and black bezel insert echo each other perfectly.
The perfect match
Rolex is introducing its first-ever dial made of high-technology ceramic. This inaugural green Cerachrom component makes its debut on an Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II with winding crown on the left side of the case and date aperture at 9 o’clock, a version which additionally, this year, is presented in 18 ct white gold.
The new Cerachrom dial – created in the same way as dials in natural stone, by fitting a disc of material onto a brass plate – displays the same shade of green as the lower half of the two-colour green and black Cerachrom bezel insert that frames the watch face.This perfect tonal harmony, which remains true under all lighting conditions, is achieved by using the same type of ceramic to produce both elements.
This new version of the GMT-Master II is mounted on an Oyster bracelet equipped with an Oysterlock safety clasp.
The GMT-Master II is driven by calibre 3285, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling it to display the date and an additional time zone in 24-hour format, as well as the hours, minutes and seconds.
Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.
One instrument, several time zones
Designed as a navigation aid for professionals criss-crossing the globe, the GMT-Master became the watch of choice for travellers. It has a unique and instantly recognizable design with a bidirectional rotatable bezel and a 24-hour graduated insert, which has been made available in single-colour versions as well as in various dual-colour combinations – the lower half symbolizing daytime hours and the upper signalling night-time hours. The GMT-Master, a true ‘tool watch’, has evolved continually to offer increasing technical performance. In 1982, Rolex unveiled the
GMT-Master II, with a movement allowing the hour hand to be set independently of the other hands.
With traditional hour, minute and seconds hands, a triangle- tipped 24-hour hand, and a bidirectional rotatable bezel with 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert, the GMT-Master II can display the time in two time zones simultaneously: either the local time and a reference time, or the local time and that of an alternative time zone. The date is synchronized with the local time.
High-technology ceramic
Rolex played a pioneering role in the development of special ceramics to create particular elements of its watch cases – notably monobloc bezels and monobloc bezel inserts. Not only are these materials particularly scratch resistant, their colours are also of a rare intensity and are resistant to environmental effects. In addition, thanks to their chemical composition, the high-tech ceramics are inert and cannot corrode. The brand has developed exclusive expertise and innovative manufacturing methods that grant it complete independence in the production of these ceramic components.
On the new version of the GMT-Master II, the bidirectional rotatable bezel is fitted with a two-colour, 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert in green and black ceramic. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with platinum via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The bezel’s knurled edge offers excellent grip and can be manipulated with ease.
The Oyster case, symbol of waterproofness
A paragon of robustness and reliability, the 40 mm Oyster case of the GMT-Master II is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). The middle case of the version presented is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct white gold. Its case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool employed by approved watchmakers. The Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, which features a Cyclops lens for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses.
Calibre 3285
The GMT-Master II is powered by calibre 3285, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2018 and introduced on the model the same year. A distillation of technology, this self-winding mechanical movement delivers outstanding performance, particularly in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.
Calibre 3285 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorous, this escapement is resistant to strong magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with a blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in
a paramagnetic alloy. The hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is mounted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, further enhancing the movement’s shock resistance.
Calibre 3285 is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of this movement extends to approximately 70 hours.
Oyster bracelet and Oysterlock safety clasp
The GMT-Master II in 18 ct white gold with a green Cerachrom dial matched with the green and black Cerachrom bezel insert is fitted on an Oyster bracelet. Developed in the late 1930s, this three-piece link metal bracelet is known for its robustness.
The Oyster bracelet of the GMT-Master II is furnished with the Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. It also includes the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by Rolex, that allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. On the version presented, it includes patented ceramic inserts – designed by the brand – inside the links to enhance its flexibility on the wrist and its longevity.
Superlative Chronometer certification
Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, following the official certification of the movements by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). These in-house certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding.
The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2 /+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone.
The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.
Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
Case reference
126729 VTNR
Bracelet reference
79209 Oyster
Category
Oyster Perpetual Professional
Certification
Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)
International five-year guarantee
Case
Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Safety
Integral crown guard Measurements
Measurements
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 11.90 mm – Lug width: 20 mm
Material
18 ct white gold Middle case
18 ct white gold, satin finish with polished sides
Bezel
18 ct white gold, bidirectional rotatable
24-hour graduated monobloc two-colour
Cerachrom insert in green and black ceramic; moulded, recessed graduations and numerals coated with platinum via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition)
Case back
18 ct white gold, solid, screw-down with fine fluting
Winding crown
Triplock in 18 ct white gold, screw-down, triple waterproofness system
Crystal
Scratch-resistant sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Cyclops lens over the date
with double anti-reflective coating
Waterproofness
100 metres (330 feet)
Movement Dial
Calibre 3285, Manufacture Rolex
Mechanical movement with bidirectional
self-winding via Perpetual rotor
Precision
−2/+2 sec./day, after casing Functions
Functions
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands – Local time via conventional hands,
independent rapid-setting of the hour hand
Reference time via additional 24-hour hand
Instantaneous date at 9 o’clock, secure setting via the hour hand
Stop-seconds for exact time setting
Oscillator
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring – Rolex overcoil
Large balance wheel with variable inertia – High-precision regulating via four gold
Microstella nuts
Traversing balance bridge
High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers
Dial
Cerachrom in green ceramic
Hour markers in 18 ct white gold,
highly legible Chromalight (long-lasting
luminescence, blue glow)
Hands in 18 ct white gold,
highly legible Chromalight (long-lasting luminescence, blue glow)
Escapement
Chronergy with optimized energy efficiency – Paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus pallet fork and escape wheel
Jewelling
31 rubies
Power reserve
Approximately 70 hours
Bracelet
Oyster, three-piece solid links
18 ct white gold, polished centre links,
satin-finished outer links with polished edges;
ceramic inserts
Oysterlock folding safety clasp in
18 ct white gold
Easylink comfort extension link (approx. 5 mm)
