Tag Archives: WatchmakingInnovation

Ulysse Nardin Free Wheel Maillechort

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WHERE MYSTERY MEETS MASTERY: A HIGH HOROLOGY COMPLICATION THAT DEFIES PERCEPTION AND REDEFINES ENGINEERING.

The independent Swiss watchmaking Maison Ulysse Nardin unveils the BLAST [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT], an exclusive timepiece limited to just 50 pieces. This unconventional horological creation pushes the boundaries of traditional watchmaking, offering a bold fusion of mysterious design and groundbreaking mechanism.

At the heart of this horological masterpiece lies a series of unprecedented flying mechanisms. From the floating double-barrel system to the award-winning Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement, the BLAST [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT] challenges the conventional and elevates precision engineering to new heights. Beneath the ultra-glass box, a dial crafted from Maillechort adds depth, evolving over time into a unique expression of character and craftsmanship.

TECHNOLOGY: FREE-FLOATING MECHANISM

At the heart of this edgy Haute Horlogerie complication, the unique and innovative UN-176 calibre seems to defy not only the laws of physics, but also the very principles of watchmaking construction. Perfecting this flying movement, entirely designed by the integrated Manufacture, required two years of research and development to Ulysse Nardin’s technical department.

The BLAST [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT] presents Ulysse Nardin’s award-winning flying tourbillon with the Ulysse Anchor
Constant Escapement. Composed of 45 components, the tourbillon is located at 6 o’clock and boasts a revolutionary constant escapement. Challenging the principle of the traditional anchor escapement, the Ulysse Anchor Constant

Escapement features a circular frame with a pallet fork fixed in the center, supported in space on two blade springs less than a quarter of the thickness of a hair in diameter. Mounted perpendicular to each other, these are subjected to a bending force that curves them and maintains them. This major technical achievement directed by Ulysse Nardin guarantees a perfectly even impulse on the balance wheel, irrespective of the watch’s power reserve. Thanks to silicon technology also incorporated in the hairspring and the escapement, the jewels of the usual escapement-wheel become superfluous, as does the anchor pivot. This exceptional tourbillon, which reflects Ulysse Nardin’s triumphs in terms of innovation, proudly won the Tourbillon Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2015.

At 12 o’clock, a floating double-barrel system is positioned, flying without any visible attachment on the surface. One barrel is fully exposed, while the other operates unseen. Precision ball bearings hold everything in perfect alignment. The energy it accumulates provides the timepiece with an exceptional autonomy of seven days, outlined by a highly original power reserve display at 4 o’clock. The indicator remains static, unlike the display disc: three bands opposing the indicator mean that the watch is fully wound, while a single band indicates that the power reserve is almost empty.

In addition, several additional flying mechanisms are displayed on either side of the barrel: on its left, an intermediate wheel, a power reserve differential, and a reduction gear; on its right, the winding mechanism that connects it to the crown’s winding stem, allowing the selection of the winding system train or the time setting.

DESIGN: A 360° VIEW INTO MECHANICAL MASTERY

The BLAST [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT] is a spectacular show. Its bold 45mm case, crafted in white gold, features negative angle facets designed using a complex laser method. Renowned for its disruptive aesthetic and ergonomic properties, this satin-finished and polished BLAST case once again proves the cutting-edge know-how of the independent Manufacture.

The geometric lines feature a unique ultra-glass box in sapphire crystal that offers a wide-open view of the mysterious movement, which is also visible through the sides. The distinctive characteristic of this glass box lies in its construction: it was carved from a single block of sapphire crystal, meticulously hollowed out to form the box and achieve this unparalleled shape.

Beneath the dome glass and the flying mechanism lies a dial crafted from Maillechort, a traditional alloy of copper, zinc, and nickel. Known for its warm, silvery tones and distinctive grained texture, it is prized for its durability and unique aesthetic.

More difficult to manufacture than brass due to its hardness and complex composition, it requires craftsmanship and precision. Historically used in musical instruments for its resonant acoustic properties, Maillechort is a “living metal” that develops a one-of-a-kind patina over time, adding character and depth. This material was invented in the early 19th century by French engineers Maillet and Chorier, whose combined names became “Maillechort”.

Underscoring the meticulous attention to detail in its design, the case back of the BLAST [FREE WHEEL MAILLECHORT] is open, featuring a sapphire glass and a Maillechort plate. This exclusive limited edition of 50 pieces features a blue velvet effect and waterproof rubber strap, with a white gold folding buckle.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

REFERENCE: 1760-401LE-4A-MAIL/3A

MOVEMENT & FUNCTIONS: UN-176 Manufacture
Manual Tourbillon Flying Movement
Hours, Minutes
Flying tourbillon with Ulysse Anchor Escapement (Constant) / Blades technology
Power reserve indicator at 4 o’clock
Escapement-wheel, anchor & balance spring in Silicon
246 components / 23 jewels
Frequency 2.5 Hz / oscillations 18’000 VPH

POWER RESERVE: 7 days

CASE: White gold satin-finished & polished case
White gold open sapphire case-back with Maillechort plate
Diameter 45 mm, Water resistance 30 m
Perceived height 8.75 mm / Overall height 12.4 mm

DIAL: Maillechort dial
Grey hands with white Superluminova®

STRAP & BUCKLE: Waterproof blue velvet effect rubber strap
White gold deployant buckle
Compatible with BLAST Tourbillon straps

LIMITED EDITION: 50 pieces

WARRANTY: 5 years

 

Rolex GMT-Master II green ceramic dial

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Rolex has chosen to introduce its very first ceramic dial on an 18 ct white gold version of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. In the same material, with the same green colour and the same lustre, this Cerachrom dial and the daytime half of the green and black bezel insert echo each other perfectly.

The perfect match

Rolex is introducing its first-ever dial made of high-technology ceramic. This inaugural green Cerachrom component makes its debut on an Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II with winding crown on the left side of the case and date aperture at 9 o’clock, a version which additionally, this year, is presented in 18 ct white gold.

The new Cerachrom dial – created in the same way as dials in natural stone, by fitting a disc of material onto a brass plate – displays the same shade of green as the lower half of the two-colour green and black Cerachrom bezel insert that frames the watch face.This perfect tonal harmony, which remains true under all lighting conditions, is achieved by using the same type of ceramic to produce both elements.

This new version of the GMT-Master II is mounted on an Oyster bracelet equipped with an Oysterlock safety clasp.

The GMT-Master II is driven by calibre 3285, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling it to display the date and an additional time zone in 24-hour format, as well as the hours, minutes and seconds.

Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

One instrument, several time zones

Designed as a navigation aid for professionals criss-crossing the globe, the GMT-Master became the watch of choice for travellers. It has a unique and instantly recognizable design with a bidirectional rotatable bezel and a 24-hour graduated insert, which has been made available in single-colour versions as well as in various dual-colour combinations – the lower half symbolizing daytime hours and the upper signalling night-time hours. The GMT-Master, a true ‘tool watch’, has evolved continually to offer increasing technical performance. In 1982, Rolex unveiled the

GMT-Master II, with a movement allowing the hour hand to be set independently of the other hands.

With traditional hour, minute and seconds hands, a triangle- tipped 24-hour hand, and a bidirectional rotatable bezel with 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert, the GMT-Master II can display the time in two time zones simultaneously: either the local time and a reference time, or the local time and that of an alternative time zone. The date is synchronized with the local time.

High-technology ceramic

Rolex played a pioneering role in the development of special ceramics to create particular elements of its watch cases – notably monobloc bezels and monobloc bezel inserts. Not only are these materials particularly scratch resistant, their colours are also of a rare intensity and are resistant to environmental effects. In addition, thanks to their chemical composition, the high-tech ceramics are inert and cannot corrode. The brand has developed exclusive expertise and innovative manufacturing methods that grant it complete independence in the production of these ceramic components.

On the new version of the GMT-Master II, the bidirectional rotatable bezel is fitted with a two-colour, 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert in green and black ceramic. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with platinum via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The bezel’s knurled edge offers excellent grip and can be manipulated with ease.

The Oyster case, symbol of waterproofness

A paragon of robustness and reliability, the 40 mm Oyster case of the GMT-Master II is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). The middle case of the version presented is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct white gold. Its case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool employed by approved watchmakers. The Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, which features a Cyclops lens for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses.

Calibre 3285

The GMT-Master II is powered by calibre 3285, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2018 and introduced on the model the same year. A distillation of technology, this self-winding mechanical movement delivers outstanding performance, particularly in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.

Calibre 3285 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorous, this escapement is resistant to strong magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with a blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in
a paramagnetic alloy. The hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is mounted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, further enhancing the movement’s shock resistance.

Calibre 3285 is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of this movement extends to approximately 70 hours.

Oyster bracelet and Oysterlock safety clasp

The GMT-Master II in 18 ct white gold with a green Cerachrom dial matched with the green and black Cerachrom bezel insert is fitted on an Oyster bracelet. Developed in the late 1930s, this three-piece link metal bracelet is known for its robustness.

The Oyster bracelet of the GMT-Master II is furnished with the Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. It also includes the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by Rolex, that allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. On the version presented, it includes patented ceramic inserts – designed by the brand – inside the links to enhance its flexibility on the wrist and its longevity.

Superlative Chronometer certification

Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, following the official certification of the movements by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). These in-house certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding.

The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2 /+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone.

The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

Case reference
126729 VTNR

Bracelet reference
79209 Oyster

Category
Oyster Perpetual Professional

Certification
Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)
International five-year guarantee

Case
Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)

Safety
Integral crown guard Measurements

Measurements
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 11.90 mm – Lug width: 20 mm

Material
18 ct white gold Middle case
18 ct white gold, satin finish with polished sides

Bezel
18 ct white gold, bidirectional rotatable
24-hour graduated monobloc two-colour
Cerachrom insert in green and black ceramic; moulded, recessed graduations and numerals coated with platinum via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition)

Case back
18 ct white gold, solid, screw-down with fine fluting

Winding crown
Triplock in 18 ct white gold, screw-down, triple waterproofness system

Crystal
Scratch-resistant sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Cyclops lens over the date
with double anti-reflective coating

Waterproofness
100 metres (330 feet)

Movement Dial
Calibre 3285, Manufacture Rolex
Mechanical movement with bidirectional
self-winding via Perpetual rotor

Precision
−2/+2 sec./day, after casing Functions

Functions
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands – Local time via conventional hands,
independent rapid-setting of the hour hand
Reference time via additional 24-hour hand
Instantaneous date at 9 o’clock, secure setting via the hour hand
Stop-seconds for exact time setting

Oscillator
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring – Rolex overcoil
Large balance wheel with variable inertia – High-precision regulating via four gold
Microstella nuts
Traversing balance bridge
High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers

Dial
Cerachrom in green ceramic
Hour markers in 18 ct white gold,
highly legible Chromalight (long-lasting
luminescence, blue glow)
Hands in 18 ct white gold,
highly legible Chromalight (long-lasting luminescence, blue glow)

Escapement
Chronergy with optimized energy efficiency – Paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus pallet fork and escape wheel

Jewelling
31 rubies

Power reserve
Approximately 70 hours

Bracelet
Oyster, three-piece solid links
18 ct white gold, polished centre links,
satin-finished outer links with polished edges;
ceramic inserts
Oysterlock folding safety clasp in
18 ct white gold
Easylink comfort extension link (approx. 5 mm)