The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) once again delivered a night filled with craftsmanship, innovation and emotion — and the 2025 edition might just be one of the most diverse lineups we’ve seen in years. From ultra-thin record-breakers to artistic métiers d’art creations and bold independents rewriting the rulebook, this year’s winners represent the very best of watchmaking today.
Here’s a complete breakdown of every winning timepiece from GPHG 2025.
Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix — Breguet
Classique Souscription 2025
Breguet took home the top honour with the Classique Souscription 2025 — a tribute to purity, precision, and the maison’s unmistakable signature aesthetics. Slim, elegant, and rooted deeply in its history, this piece captures the true spirit of high horology.
Chronometry Prize — Zenith
G.F.J. Calibre 135
Zenith impressed with a masterclass in accuracy. The Calibre 135 remains a benchmark in chronometry, and its modern interpretation bridges heritage with contemporary execution in a remarkably refined package.
Horological Revelation Prize — Anton Suhanov
St. Petersburg Easter Egg Tourbillon Clock
Anton Suhanov delivered one of the most poetic creations of the night. His tourbillon clock, shaped like a jewelled Easter egg, blends mechanical virtuosity with Russian artistic heritage. A stunning triumph for independent creators.
Audacity Prize — Fam Al Hut
Möbius
Bold, futuristic and mathematically inspired, the Möbius by Fam Al Hut challenges traditional watchmaking norms. A fluid sculpture for the wrist, it stands out as one of the most daring designs of 2025.
Iconic Watch Prize — Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Audemars Piguet reinforces its legendary status with a Perpetual Calendar that redefines the Royal Oak’s identity. Technical finesse meets architectural beauty in this modern icon.
Mechanical Exception Prize — Greubel Forsey
Nano Foudroyante
Greubel Forsey continues to push boundaries. The Nano Foudroyante integrates cutting-edge mechanisms in a breathtakingly complex layout — a true testament to their pursuit of perfection.
Chronograph Prize — Angelus
Chronographe Télémètre Yellow Gold
Angelus returned to its roots with a stunning yellow-gold chronograph featuring a vintage telemeter scale. A beautiful fusion of heritage and contemporary detailing.
Tourbillon Prize — Bvlgari
Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Bvlgari extends its dominance in ultra-thin watchmaking. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon pushes the limits of engineering with a paper-thin architecture and bold modern design.
Sports Watch Prize — Chopard
Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF
Chopard’s high-frequency Alpine Eagle brings performance, lightness and aesthetics together. The textured dial and 8 Hz movement give this piece a competitive edge.
Men’s Complication Prize — Bovet 1822
Récital 30
The Récital 30 is a sculptural timepiece showcasing Bovet’s layered architecture. It balances elegance, mechanics, and creativity — all in true Bovet style.
Men’s Watch Prize — Urban Jürgensen
UJ-2 Double Wheel Natural Escapement
Urban Jürgensen impressed with an intricate natural escapement system, beautifully integrated into a refined, classical case. A victory for traditional craftsmanship.
Time-Only Watch Prize — Daniel Roth
Extra Plat Rose Gold
A masterclass in minimalism. Daniel Roth’s Extra Plat is slim, warm, and beautifully pure — a watch for those who appreciate understatement done exceptionally well.
Jewellery Watch Prize — Dior Montres
La D de Dior Buisson Couture
Dior delivered a gem-set wonder inspired by haute couture embroidery. A piece designed not just as a watch, but as wearable jewellery art.
Artistic Crafts Prize — Voutilainen
28GML SOUYOU
Voutilainen continues to celebrate artisanal craftsmanship with a piece showcasing exceptional guilloché, finishing, and rich contrasting tones. A connoisseur’s delight.
Ladies’ Complication Prize — Chopard
Imperiale Four Seasons
Chopard’s Imperiale Four Seasons captures the beauty of nature through four poetic interpretations — a feminine masterpiece imbued with symbolism and precision.
Ladies’ Watch Prize — Gérald Genta
Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal
A sculptural creation set with vibrant fire opal, Gérald Genta’s Gentissima Oursin is bold, radiant, and exceptional in form. A standout in women’s watchmaking.
Petite Aiguille Prize — M.A.D. Editions
M.A.D.2 Green
Max Büsser’s M.A.D.2 Green brings fun, bold character and futuristic design — perfectly capturing the spirit of accessible independent watchmaking.
Challenge Watch Prize — Dennison
Natural Stone Tiger Eye In Gold
Dennison offers a warm, organic take on luxury with a rich tiger-eye dial set in gold. Simple, striking, and beautifully executed.
Mechanical Clock Prize — L’Épée 1839 × MB&F
Albatross L’Épée 1839 × MB&F
Part sculpture, part machine — the Albatross showcases L’Épée’s mechanical mastery paired with MB&F’s artistic imagination. A kinetic artwork worthy of a spotlight.
Final Thoughts
GPHG 2025 showcased a brilliant mix of heritage maisons, bold independents and artistic explorations that pushed horology to new heights. Whether through extreme thinness, imaginative architecture or the revival of ancient crafts, this year’s winners prove that watchmaking is more alive, creative and emotional than ever.
2025 marks the 75th anniversary of Ahmed Seddiqi, MB&F’s longstanding retail partner in Dubai. To commemorate this important milestone, the two partners have chosen to craft not just one but two Limited Editions, both powered by MB&F’s award-winning Perpetual Calendar calibre: 7 LM Perpetual EVO pieces and 5 LM Perpetual Baguette Diamonds pieces, both featuring signature blue highlights.
For over seven decades, Ahmed Seddiqi has been a cornerstone of the regional horology landscape, cultivating appreciation for fine timepieces and championing independent brands such as MB&F. This collaboration not only recognizes the Seddiqi family’s role in horology, but also celebrates the deep friendship between the two partners.
Reflecting on this relationship, Maximilian Büsser, owner & creative director of MB&F, shares:
“I have been privileged over the last 27 years of their 75-year history, to have counted the Seddiqi family as very close friends. They welcomed me when I was at my most vulnerable, they many times helped me when I was down, and were there to celebrate our greatest achievements together. It is therefore my privilege and honour to celebrate this milestone of Ahmed Seddiqi, with two incredibly rare and special MB&F pieces. Both are based on the ground-breaking Perpetual Calendar developed by Stephen McDonnell. For such an exceptional anniversary, we had to choose an equally exceptional movement”.
First released in 2015, the GPHG award-winning Legacy Machine Perpetual has become a strong favourite amongst MB&F aficionados. The LM Perpetual has also evolved into several EVO editions, designed for an active lifestyle – with enhanced 80 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown, an integrated rubber strap and MB&F’s patented FlexRing, a proprietary annular dampener providing shock protection.
The LM Perpetual EVO 75th Anniversary Seddiqi Limited Edition
The 75th Anniversary edition of the LM Perpetual EVO – limited to only 7 pieces – is housed in a grade 5 titanium case, engraved with the anniversary theme. It stands out thanks to the same striking blue colour first featured on the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser especially created for Ahmed Seddiqi in 2020. The signature blue colour has been applied for this edition to the sub-dials, contrasting with the anthracite dial plate in the background.
The LM Perpetual Baguette Diamonds 75th Anniversary Seddiqi Limited Edition
The second 75th Anniversary edition – even more limited, with just 5 pieces – inaugurates a first for the Legacy Machine Perpetual series: a refined bezel set with 48 baguette-cut diamonds. The case is crafted in stainless steel, engraved with the 75th Anniversary message. Like its EVO counterpart, it also features the same signature blue colour but applied on the dial plate, with contrasting black sub-dials displaying the time, day of the week, month and date.
LEGACY MACHINE PERPETUAL IN DETAIL
CONVENTIONAL PERPETUAL CALENDARS
Created by Northern Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell and premiered in 2015, the LM Perpetual calibre was — and still is — one of the most innovative perpetual calendar systems to exist in modern watchmaking.
Conventional perpetual calendars are generally modules comprising the complication, which is fitted on top of an existing movement. The calendar indications are synchronised by a long lever running across the top of the complication and passing through the centre. As the date changes, this long lever transmits information to the appropriate components and mechanisms by moving backwards and forwards. This traditional system is extremely unwieldy, restricting movement construction in several key ways that would make something like Legacy Machine Perpetual a mechanical impossibility.
In the traditional system, perpetual calendars assume that, by default, all months have 31 days. At the end of months with fewer than 31 days, the mechanism quickly skips through the superfluous dates before arriving at the 1st of the new month. Any manipulation or adjustment of the date during changeover can result in damage to the mechanism, requiring expensive repairs. The dates can also jump or skip during changeover, negating the whole point of the perpetual calendar in the first place, which is not requiring adjustment for years. Or decades.
MECHANICAL PROCESSOR
Legacy Machine Perpetual uses a “mechanical processor” consisting of a series of superimposed disks. This revolutionary processor takes the default number of days in the month at 28 – because, logically, all months have at least 28 days – and then adds the extra days as required by each individual month. This ensures that each month has exactly the right number of days. There is no “skipping over” redundant days, and no possibility of the date jumping incorrectly.
Using a planetary cam, the mechanical processor also enables quick-setting of the year so that it displays correctly in the four-year leap year cycle, whereas traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms require the user to scroll through up to 47 months to arrive at the right month and year. The mechanical processor also enables an inbuilt safety feature that disconnects the quick-set pushers during the date changeover, eliminating any risk of damage
OPENING UP A NEW WORLD OF PERPETUAL CALENDAR AESTHETICS
Legacy Machine Perpetual takes advantage of its fully integrated movement to place the perpetual calendar mechanism on top of the movement main plate so that it can be appreciated from above. Legibility is often an issue with perpetual calendars due to the sheer number of indications, and LM Perpetual addresses this by using skeletonised subdials (except for the time indication) that appear to float above the complication with no apparent support from below.
In yet another innovation, Legacy Machine Perpetual uses what is likely to be the world’s longest balance wheel pinion to connect that elegantly suspended balance, hovering above the top of the movement, to the escapement on the back of the movement.
Two Limited Editions
– LM Perpetual EVO limited to 7 pieces with signature blue sub-dials;
– LM Perpetual Baguette Diamonds limited to 5 pieces with signature blue dial plate.
Engine
Fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, featuring dial-side complication and mechanical processor system architecture with inbuilt safety mechanism. Manual winding with double mainspring barrels.
Bespoke 14 mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings.
Power reserve: 72 hours
Balance frequency: 18,000bph / 2.5Hz
Number of components: 581
Number of jewels: 41
EVO edition: screw-down crown and FlexRing annular dampener fitted between case and movement, providing shock protection along the vertical and lateral axes.
Functions/indications
Hours, minutes, day, date, month, retrograde leap year and power reserve indicators.
Case
EVO edition: grade 5 titanium
Baguette Diamonds edition: stainless steel with 48 baguette-cut 1.5-carat diamonds bezel.
Engraving: 75th Seddiqi anniversary engraving on the case-back.
Dimensions: 44 mm x 17.5 mm
Number of components: 70 (EVO edition) or 69 (Baguette edition)
Water resistance: 8ATM / 80m / 270 feet (EVO edition) or 30 m / 90′ / 3 ATM (Baguette edition)
Sapphire crystals
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces.
Strap & buckle
EVO edition: rubber strap with titanium folding buckle.
Baguette Diamonds edition: white hand-stitched alligator strap with stainless steel folding buckle.
MB&F – GENESIS OF A CONCEPT LABORATORY
Founded in 2005, MB&F is the world’s first-ever horological concept laboratory. With over 20 remarkable calibres forming the base of the critically acclaimed Horological and Legacy Machines, MB&F is continuing to follow Founder and Creative Director Maximilian Büsser’s vision of creating 3-D kinetic art by deconstructing traditional watchmaking.
After 15 years managing prestigious watch brands, Maximilian Büsser resigned from his Managing Director position at Harry Winston in 2005 to create MB&F – Maximilian Büsser & Friends. MB&F is an artistic and micro-engineering laboratory dedicated to designing and crafting small series of radical concept watches by bringing together talented horological professionals that Büsser both respects and enjoys working with.
In 2007, MB&F unveiled its first Horological Machine, HM1. HM1’s sculptured, three-dimensional case and beautifully finished engine (movement) set the standard for the idiosyncratic Horological Machines that have followed – all Machines that tell the time, rather than Machines to tell the time. The fiercely unconventional Horological Machines have explored themes as diverse as space and science fiction, aviation, supercars, the animal kingdom and architecture.
In 2011, MB&F launched its round-cased Legacy Machine collection. These more classical pieces – classical for MB&F, that is – pay tribute to nineteenth-century watchmaking excellence by reinterpreting complications from the great horological innovators of yesteryear to create contemporary objets d’art. Certain Legacy Machines have also given birth to EVO editions, featuring increased water and shock resistance compatible with collectors’ active lifestyles. MB&F generally alternates between launching contemporary, resolutely unconventional Horological Machines and historically inspired Legacy Machines.
As the F stands for Friends, it was only natural for MB&F to develop collaborations with artists, watchmakers, designers and manufacturers they admire.
This brought about two new categories: Performance Art and Co-creations. While Performance Art pieces are MB&F machines revisited by external creative talent, Co-creations are not wristwatches but other types of machines, engineered and crafted by unique Swiss Manufactures from MB&F ideas and designs. Many of these Co-creations, such as the clocks created with L’Epée 1839, tell the time while collaborations with Reuge and Caran d’Ache generated other forms of mechanical art.
To give all these machines an appropriate platform, Büsser had the idea of placing them in an art gallery alongside various forms of mechanical art created by other artists, rather than in a traditional storefront. This brought about the creation of the first MB&F M.A.D.Gallery (M.A.D. stands for Mechanical Art Devices) in Geneva, which would later be joined by the M.A.D.Gallery in Dubai – along with MB&F Labs, which showcase a more compact selection of artists in locations like Singapore, Taipei, Paris and Beverly Hills.
There have been distinguished accolades reminding us of the innovative nature of MB&F’s journey so far. To name a few, there have been no less than 9 awards from the famous Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, including the ultimate prize: the “Aiguille d’Or”, which rewards the best watch of the year. In 2022, the LM Sequential EVO was awarded the Aiguille d’Or, while the M.A.D.1 RED won the ‘Challenge’ category. In 2021, LMX won the Best Men’s Complication and the LM SE Eddy Jaquet ‘Around The World in Eighty Days’ was awarded in the ‘Artistic Crafts’ category. In 2019, the prize for Best Ladies Complication went to the LM FlyingT; in 2016, LM Perpetual won the Best Calendar Watch award; in 2012, Legacy Machine No.1 was awarded both the Public Prize (voted for by horology fans) and the Best Men’s Watch Prize (voted for by the professional jury). In 2010, MB&F won Best Concept and Design Watch for the HM4 Thunderbolt. In 2015 MB&F received a Red Dot: Best of the Best award – the top prize at the international Red Dot Awards – for the HM6 Space Pirate.
ABOUT AHMED SEDDIQI
Driven by the vision of its founder, Mr. Ahmed Qassim Seddiqi, and the passion of the Seddiqi family, Ahmed Seddiqi has established its legacy across luxury retail over the years.
The first Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons boutique opened in Bur Dubai in 1950.
Since then, the retail footprint has expanded to a network of boutiques across the UAE.
Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is recognised as a pioneer amongst retailers in the region, led by its commitment to service excellence, horology expertise, portfolio curation, and creating unique experiences for its customers.
Their craftsmanship is not just something that they sell, it is fundamental to who they are as a company. Their technical expertise, gained over generations, gave them an intricate mechanical knowledge of watches and jewellery. From detailed watch servicing to understanding movements inside and out, they do blend the meticulous skill of craftsmen with the refined taste of seasoned retailers.
As Ahmed Seddiqi celebrates its 75 years anniversary, the company unveiled a refreshed identity that honours its legacy while looking into the future. Subtle yet purposeful changes reflect who they are today: a house of heritage, expertise, and evolving elegance.
ABOUT DUBAI WATCH WEEK
Founded in 2015 by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, Dubai Watch Week is a global platform dedicated to preserving watchmaking culture, fostering education, and facilitating creative dialogue. The event brings together collectors, brands, artisans, and the public in an open celebration of horology.
The seventh edition will be held from 19–23 November 2025 at Burj Park, presented under the patronage of Her Highness Sheikha Latifa bint Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum.
The Legacy Machine 101 (LM101) series was first launched in 2014. With its 40mm case diameter, the LM101 is among the smallest and thinnest of all the Legacy Machines, featuring a nonetheless very three-dimensional movement, regulated by a monumental 14mm “flying” balance wheel that floats above the movement.
As its “101” name implies, the timepiece focuses on the essentials of a mechanical wristwatch: the balance wheel, which regulates precision; the power reserve, showing how much energy remains in the mainspring and when it needs to be wound; and, of course, the display of time itself.
The LM101 movement was the first calibre entirely conceived by MB&F’s in-house engineering team. Award-winning, independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen played a pivotal role in the design and finishing specifications, ensuring that its architecture and 19th century style hand-finishing techniques met the highest standards of traditional haute horlogerie and respected the codes of historical watchmaking.
Over the last decade, the reference has seen many stunning iterations in white, rose and yellow gold, platinum, palladium and stainless steel – along with a plethora of striking dial colours and finishes, each as desirable as the next.
The LM101 is now one of MB&F’s most coveted creations, and over the last few years, collectors and enthusiasts have frequently expressed their desire for an EVO edition. To mark MB&F’s 20th anniversary in 2025, the brand has finally decided to answer this request with the debut of the LM101 EVO – a fitting tribute to two decades of horological artistry and a thank you to the model’s most avid fans.
What is the EVO effect?
The EVO series was introduced in 2020 with the LM Perpetual EVO – an evolution of the award-winning LM Perpetual. This was followed by the LM Split Escapement EVO and the LM Sequential EVO in 2022.
The EVO treatment includes a set of design and engineering enhancements that are applied to certain Legacy Machine models, transforming them into timepieces that are better equipped for everyday wear and an active lifestyle. Key features of the EVO models include a water resistance of 80 metres, a screw-down crown, an integrated rubber strap, and MB&F’s patented FlexRing shock absorber that is fitted between the case and the movement to protect the watch during active use. To further enhance resistance and wearability, the models employ advanced materials such as zirconium and titanium.
In terms of design, the EVO models stand out thanks to their ergonomic case design and integrated strap; but also by forgoing a traditional bezel, offering an unobstructed view of the Super-LumiNova enhanced displays through their domed sapphire crystals. On the movement side, EVO models feature darkened treatments, amplifying their sporty, contemporary aesthetic.
The 20th Anniversary LM101 EVO Editions
In celebration of MB&F’s 20th anniversary in 2025, two LM101 EVO editions are introduced in titanium, available with either a salmon or peacock green dial plate. These dial plate colours are produced using CVD, short for chemical vapor deposition – a technique chosen for its technical advantages as the dial plate forms an integral part of the movement. The peacock green version is particularly captivating as shifting hues of green, blue, and purple light refract across its surface. The salmon version is just as noteworthy as it is a relatively rare colour for MB&F.
Those with a keen eye will also notice a host of new details in these EVO editions. The two black subdials, hovering just about the dial plate, are now framed by finely circled borders. At the top right, the highly legible hours and minutes are displayed by newly designed white gold hands. The power reserve indicator, positioned in the lower subdial, reveals a significant improvement: the power reserve of the LM101 EVO calibre has been increased from the previous 45 hours to 60 hours, in keeping with the sportier theme.
The elegant twin arches suspending the flying balance wheel continue to catch the eye. Milled from a single block of metal, they require many hours of hand finishing to achieve their mirror-like lustre. In this EVO version, they feature a more fluid and refined base, further distinguishing this model from the classic LM101 version. The escapement wheel has also undergone a refined redesign, inspired by the recurring battle-axe motif found in MB&F timepieces.
A Straumann double hairspring and a reliable slipping mainspring barrel are integral features of the manually-wound LM101 EVO movement. New for this LM101 edition is the innovative proprietary FlexRing which comes with the EVO package. Each timepiece is finished with a box sapphire crystal on the back, revealing the beauty of the darkened hand-finished movement beneath. Undulating Geneva waves, hand polished bevels, gold chatons, countersunk blued screws and sensually curved plates and bridges all pay homage to the style found in high quality historic pocket watches and testify to the respect accorded to historical legitimacy.
Completing the look, wearers can choose between a sleek white or grey rubber strap. Although not formally a limited edition, the collection can only be crafted in a limited quantity of a few dozen pieces per year, based on capacity.
LM101 EVO – TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
LM101 EVO launches in two editions: Titanium with a choice of Salmon CVD dial plate, or Green CVD dial plate.
Engine
Three-dimensional horological movement developed in-house by MB&F
Movement aesthetics and finishing specifications: Kari Voutilainen
Manual winding with single slipping mainspring barrel Power reserve: 60 hours Balance wheel: Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement Balance spring: Straumann® double hairspring Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz Number of components: 233 Number of jewels: 23 jewels Chatons: gold chatons with polished countersinks
Fine finishing: superlative 19th century-style hand finishing throughout; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings, NAC black bridges.
Functions
Hours, minutes and power reserve indicator
Large balance wheel suspended above the dial
Case Material: Titanium with “FlexRing” shock protection system Diameter: 40.0 mm Height: 16.5 mm Number of components: 42 Lug-width: 17 mm Lug-to-lug: 49 mm
High domed sapphire crystal on top and box sapphire crystal on back, both with anti-reflective coating on both sides Water-resistance: 80m / 8ATM / 270 feet
Screw-down crown
Strap
Grey or white rubber strap with matching titanium folding buckle.
After 20 years of wild creativity, what if MB&F created an elegant 38mm watch?
The MB&F SP One, initially dubbed “Three Circles”, showcases a trinity of floating elements – the barrel, balance wheel, and dial – defying gravity on your wrist. These components appear to hover mysteriously at the centre of an amphitheatre, all visible through invisible sapphire domes, with the balance wheel performing a mid-air dance and the tilted dial highlighting MB&F’s clever conical gearing. The SP One is a mechanical marvel that turns your wrist into a stage for a captivating, gravity-defying performance.
Encased in a 38mm pebble-like shell, the SP One melds a smooth, tactile feel with a bezel-free design and delicately detached lugs. As MB&F’s slimmest and smallest watch, it nonetheless remains true to the brand’s signature three-dimensional architecture and boundary-pushing spirit. Somewhere between MB&F’s radical Horological Machines and more classic Legacy Machines, the SP One inaugurates a new, undefinable “Special Projects” collection.
To truly grasp the amphitheatre-like drama and unconventional flair of this project, let’s dig into its origin story.
Plunging the hand in the basket
When COVID hit, like many others MB&F thought it was the end. In this tumultuous time, the team decided it was important to dive into a basket of fun, dormant projects that had been on the back burner for years. The M.A.D.1 was one example of these whimsical ventures: initially planned to be a playful experiment to thank friends and family, it turned out to be the runaway success we know today. The following years were tinged with more success, marked by new releases, a collection of prestigious GPHG awards… Times were great.
But as MB&F owner and creative director Maximilian Büsser says, success can be toxic – leading to complacency, treating clients poorly, and stifling innovation. Instead of succumbing to these pitfalls, the team ramped up their creativity and plunged their hands deeper in the basket of dormant projects.
This surprising turn of events underscored a timeless truth for the brand: the unexpected can indeed work wonders. It was a bold reminder that the best business plans are the ones you never planned at all. This embodies the spirit of MB&F, which according to any management book, epitomizes doing everything wrong. No business plan, just a will to create the unexpected, going against the grain and revelling in the unconventional.
The basket brimming with special projects sketched over the years, seemingly senseless at the time, was full of wild ideas, flashes of intuition, and even sketches of skateboards and razors. It was a treasure trove of creativity. Max reached into the basket and picked out one project that best embodied the spirit of these special ventures.
This project, simply code-named Special Project One (SP One), was the chosen one.
Nothing classic about a classic
“We asked ourselves: what if we did what no one expected – an elegant, classical watch?” remembers Max. This was a risky move, much like the brand’s first Legacy Machine, or the M.A.D.1, or many other MB&F projects: zero market expectations, 100% risks.
“As creators, pride drives us. Pride doesn’t come from the easy path but from risking it all and potentially facing a huge setback”. The first sketch of the SP One, dating back to 2018, proves this ethos. Like all MB&F projects, it started with a sketch – quickly or “badly” drawn, as Max likes to say – but the essence of the design and specificity of the project were already there. Three circles resembling a smiley face hinted at the playful yet intricate journey ahead. The concept stemmed from this idea of a trinity: the barrel, the balance wheel, and the dial suspended in the case itself levitating on the wrist.
Yet, these early sketches were all about crafting a watch that whispered sophistication instead of shouting for attention. It needed to be subtly elegant, with a classic flair that set it apart from the usual MB&F boldness while keeping the brand’s roots alive. In other words, a hard-to-reach equilibrium.
This initial sketch was then refined and reworked with the help of famous watch designer and longtime MB&F Friend Eric Giroud. After numerous iterations, the concept seemed just right: it was then time for the engineers to take over, sketching and mapping the entire project with precision, care and plenty of head-scratching.
Levitating in a circle
Initially code-named “Three Circles,” the SP One movement is crafted around the three key elements of any mechanical watch: the barrel, the balance wheel, and the dial. Each component isn’t just there for show; they’re meant to feel like they’re floating in mid-air.
Thanks to the sapphire glass on both the front and back, these elements appear to defy gravity. However, it’s the thoughtful architecture of the movement that truly enhances this captivating levitation effect, creating a striking visual experience. Embracing the “less is more” mantra, the bridges are almost like magic, practically invisible. Most components are cleverly hidden beneath the three key elements, letting their beauty take centre stage. The fewer bridges, screws, and wheels, the better! In fact, trying to spot a screw from the front is like searching for a needle in a haystack, amplifying that stunning levitating effect.
Visually, the three elements have identical circumferences, adding complexity to the movement’s design. The single-barrel architecture is elegantly suspended, enhancing the levitation effect and presenting a genuine challenge for the movement designers. The balance wheel oscillates at 2 o’clock and captivates the wearer eyes like a flying saucer.
In Max’s imaginative world, everything seems to float, and the dial perfectly follows suit! Tilted just right to highlight MB&F’s expertise in conical gearing, this feature is a tricky feat to pull off while keeping it reliable. Rarely seen in watchmaking, it adds a wonderfully subtle three-dimensional flair that’s as intriguing as discreet.
This technically complex to achieve architecture reveals a simple and unique structure that makes understanding how a mechanical watch functions surprisingly straightforward.
Surrounding this movement is what Max playfully dubs the “amphitheatre”: a beautifully bevelled flange that channels the grandeur of Greco-Roman theatres, spotlighting the stunning intricacies of the movement like a gladiator in the arena.
Flip the SP One over, and you’ll uncover the other side of its arena, showcasing the meticulous hand finishing and overall attention to detail typical of MB&F – one of the rare watchmakers today perpetuating traditional hand finishing and artisanal craftsmanship.
The MB&F touch is unmistakably present in the SP One. Beyond the desire to surprise and take risks, it’s the meticulous attention to the movement that reveals the family ties. The complexity lies in maintaining finesse and elegance while preserving classic codes. All wheels are hand-angled, with prominent chatons, and the finish balance is subtle between satin, polished, and micro-blasted surfaces.
A satisfying pebble
Beyond the unconventional construction of the movement and traditional hand-finishing, the pebble case design further sets the SP One apart.
Despite being thin, this watch paradoxically boasts a three-dimensional presence. Imagine holding a perfectly-smooth pebble, polished by years in a riverbed: that’s the feel of the SP One. Its 38mm case, sleek like a spaceship and bezel-free, features sapphire glass that seamlessly blends front and back with the case. This design gives the watch a captivating floating effect also emphasized by its cleverly crafted lugs. A closer look reveals that they’re not directly attached to the upper case; instead, they rise elegantly from the lower case, creating a subtle yet distinct gap between each hand-polished lug and the upper section.
Overall, the SP One is as smooth to the touch as it looks, inviting you to run your fingers over its curves. It’s like a tiny UFO landed on your wrist, blending unconventional design with an organic, tactile sensation.
While the SP One is MB&F’s thinnest watch, it’s not about competing for the title of the slimmest watch in the world. Instead, it embodies a harmonious balance in design and proportions, prioritizing elegance and artistry over mere thinness to achieve true equilibrium.
The term “equilibrium” perfectly captures the essence of this Special Project. It breaks conventions while staying true to the brand’s core identity and traditional craftsmanship, all while exploring new avenues.
In essence, a classical MB&F that has nothing classical about it.
SP ONE – TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
SP One launches in two editions: platinum with a sky-blue bevelled flange and rose gold with an anthracite bevelled flange.
Engine
SP One movement developed in-house by MB&F, featuring signature balance wheel and inclined time dial.
Manual winding mainspring barrel
72 hours power reserve
Superlative hand finishing; internal bevel angles highlighting handcraft; polished bevels; hand-made engravings, anthracite bridges (ruthenium finish).
Black DLC inclined dial
Balance frequency: 2.5Hz (18,000 vph)
Number of components: 191
Number of jewels: 31
Functions
Hours and minutes on inclined dial at 6 o’clock
Case
Material: platinum 950 or 18K rose gold
Dimensions: diameter 38mm x height 12mm
Lug-to-lug: 41.9mm
Number of components: 19
Water resistance: 30m / 3ATM / 100 feet
Sapphire crystals on top and display back treated with anti-reflective coating
Strap & buckle
Calfskin strap with white gold or rose gold pin buckle
Lug width: 18mm
