Rolex GMT-Master II – Precision in Motion

Rolex has chosen to introduce its very first ceramic dial on an 18 ct white gold version of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. In the same material, with the same green colour and the same lustre, this Cerachrom dial and the daytime half of the green and black bezel insert echo each other perfectly.

Rolex is introducing its first-ever dial made of high-technology ceramic. This inaugural green Cerachrom component makes its debut on an Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II with winding crown on the left side of the case and date aperture at 9 o’clock, a version which additionally, this year, is presented in 18 ct white gold.

The new Cerachrom dial – created in the same way as dials in natural stone, by fitting a disc of material onto a brass plate – displays the same shade of green as the lower half of the two-colour green and black Cerachrom bezel insert that frames the watch face. This perfect tonal harmony, which remains true under all lighting conditions, is achieved by using the same type of ceramic to produce both elements.

This new version of the GMT-Master II is mounted on an Oyster bracelet equipped with an Oysterlock safety clasp.

The GMT-Master II is driven by calibre 3285, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling it to display the date and an additional time zone in 24-hour format, as well as the hours, minutes and seconds.

Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

ONE INSTRUMENT, SEVERAL TIME ZONES

Designed as a navigation aid for professionals criss-crossing the globe, the GMT-Master became the watch of choice for travellers. It has a unique and instantly recognizable design with a bidirectional rotatable bezel and a 24-hour graduated insert, which has been made available in single-colour versions as well as in various dual-colour combinations – the lower half symbolizing daytime hours and the upper signalling night-time hours. The GMT-Master, a true ‘tool watch’, has evolved continually to offer increasing technical performance. In 1982, Rolex unveiled the GMT-Master II, with a movement allowing the hour hand to be set independently of the other hands.

With traditional hour, minute and seconds hands, a triangle-tipped 24-hour hand, and a bidirectional rotatable bezel with 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert, the GMT-Master II can display the time in two time zones simultaneously: either the local time and a reference time, or the local time and that of an alternative time zone. The date is synchronized with the local time.

HIGH-TECHNOLOGY CERAMIC

Rolex played a pioneering role in the development of special ceramics to create particular elements of its watch cases – notably monobloc bezels and monobloc bezel inserts. Not only are these materials particularly scratch resistant, their colours are also of a rare intensity and are resistant to environmental effects. In addition, thanks to their chemical composition, the high-tech ceramics are inert and cannot corrode. The brand has developed exclusive expertise and innovative manufacturing methods that grant it complete independence in the production of these ceramic components.

On the new version of the GMT-Master II, the bidirectional rotatable bezel is fitted with a two-colour, 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert in green and black ceramic. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with platinum via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The bezel’s knurled edge offers excellent grip and can be manipulated with ease.

THE OYSTER CASE, SYMBOL OF WATERPROOFNESS

A paragon of robustness and reliability, the 40 mm Oyster case of the GMT-Master II is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). The middle case of the version presented is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct white gold. Its case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool employed by approved watchmakers. The Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, which features a Cyclops lens for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses.

CALIBRE 3285

The GMT-Master II is powered by calibre 3285, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2018 and introduced on the model the same year. A distillation of technology, this self-winding mechanical movement delivers outstanding performance, particularly in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.

Calibre 3285 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorous, this escapement is resistant to strong magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with a blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. The hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is mounted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, further enhancing the movement’s shock resistance.

Calibre 3285 is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of this movement extends to approximately 70 hours.

OYSTER BRACELET AND OYSTERLOCK SAFETY CLASP

The GMT-Master II in 18 ct white gold with a green Cerachrom dial matched with the green and black Cerachrom bezel insert is fitted on an Oyster bracelet. Developed in the late 1930s, this three-piece link metal bracelet is known for its robustness.

The Oyster bracelet of the GMT-Master II is furnished with the Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. It also includes the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by Rolex, that allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. On the version presented, it includes patented ceramic inserts – designed by the brand – inside the links to enhance its flexibility on the wrist and its longevity.

SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION

Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, following the official certification of the movements by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). These in-house certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2 /+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone.

The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

 

The quintessential LM101 receives the EVO treatment

The Legacy Machine 101 (LM101) series was first launched in 2014. With its 40mm case diameter, the LM101 is among the smallest and thinnest of all the Legacy Machines, featuring a nonetheless very three-dimensional movement, regulated by a monumental 14mm “flying” balance wheel that floats above the movement.

As its “101” name implies, the timepiece focuses on the essentials of a mechanical wristwatch: the balance wheel, which regulates precision; the power reserve, showing how much energy remains in the mainspring and when it needs to be wound; and, of course, the display of time itself.

The LM101 movement was the first calibre entirely conceived by MB&F’s in-house engineering team. Award-winning, independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen played a pivotal role in the design and finishing specifications, ensuring that its architecture and 19th century style hand-finishing techniques met the highest standards of traditional haute horlogerie and respected the codes of historical watchmaking.

Over the last decade, the reference has seen many stunning iterations in white, rose and yellow gold, platinum, palladium and stainless steel – along with a plethora of striking dial colours and finishes, each as desirable as the next.

The LM101 is now one of MB&F’s most coveted creations, and over the last few years, collectors and enthusiasts have frequently expressed their desire for an EVO edition. To mark MB&F’s 20th anniversary in 2025, the brand has finally decided to answer this request with the debut of the LM101 EVO – a fitting tribute to two decades of horological artistry and a thank you to the model’s most avid fans.

What is the EVO effect?

The EVO series was introduced in 2020 with the LM Perpetual EVO – an evolution of the award-winning LM Perpetual. This was followed by the LM Split Escapement EVO and the LM Sequential EVO in 2022.

The EVO treatment includes a set of design and engineering enhancements that are applied to certain Legacy Machine models, transforming them into timepieces that are better equipped for everyday wear and an active lifestyle. Key features of the EVO models include a water resistance of 80 metres, a screw-down crown, an integrated rubber strap, and MB&F’s patented FlexRing shock absorber that is fitted between the case and the movement to protect the watch during active use. To further enhance resistance and wearability, the models employ advanced materials such as zirconium and titanium.

In terms of design, the EVO models stand out thanks to their ergonomic case design and integrated strap; but also by forgoing a traditional bezel, offering an unobstructed view of the Super-LumiNova enhanced displays through their domed sapphire crystals. On the movement side, EVO models feature darkened treatments, amplifying their sporty, contemporary aesthetic.

The 20th Anniversary LM101 EVO Editions

In celebration of MB&F’s 20th anniversary in 2025, two LM101 EVO editions are introduced in titanium, available with either a salmon or peacock green dial plate. These dial plate colours are produced using CVD, short for chemical vapor deposition – a technique chosen for its technical advantages as the dial plate forms an integral part of the movement. The peacock green version is particularly captivating as shifting hues of green, blue, and purple light refract across its surface. The salmon version is just as noteworthy as it is a relatively rare colour for MB&F.

Those with a keen eye will also notice a host of new details in these EVO editions. The two black subdials, hovering just about the dial plate, are now framed by finely circled borders. At the top right, the highly legible hours and minutes are displayed by newly designed white gold hands. The power reserve indicator, positioned in the lower subdial, reveals a significant improvement: the power reserve of the LM101 EVO calibre has been increased from the previous 45 hours to 60 hours, in keeping with the sportier theme.

The elegant twin arches suspending the flying balance wheel continue to catch the eye. Milled from a single block of metal, they require many hours of hand finishing to achieve their mirror-like lustre. In this EVO version, they feature a more fluid and refined base, further distinguishing this model from the classic LM101 version. The escapement wheel has also undergone a refined redesign, inspired by the recurring battle-axe motif found in MB&F timepieces.

A Straumann double hairspring and a reliable slipping mainspring barrel are integral features of the manually-wound LM101 EVO movement. New for this LM101 edition is the innovative proprietary FlexRing which comes with the EVO package. Each timepiece is finished with a box sapphire crystal on the back, revealing the beauty of the darkened hand-finished movement beneath. Undulating Geneva waves, hand polished bevels, gold chatons, countersunk blued screws and sensually curved plates and bridges all pay homage to the style found in high quality historic pocket watches and testify to the respect accorded to historical legitimacy.

Completing the look, wearers can choose between a sleek white or grey rubber strap. Although not formally a limited edition, the collection can only be crafted in a limited quantity of a few dozen pieces per year, based on capacity.

LM101 EVO – TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

LM101 EVO launches in two editions: Titanium with a choice of Salmon CVD dial plate, or Green CVD dial plate.

Engine
Three-dimensional horological movement developed in-house by MB&F
Movement aesthetics and finishing specifications: Kari Voutilainen
Manual winding with single slipping mainspring barrel
Power reserve: 60 hours
Balance wheel: Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement
Balance spring: Straumann® double hairspring
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz
Number of components: 233
Number of jewels: 23 jewels
Chatons: gold chatons with polished countersinks
Fine finishing: superlative 19th century-style hand finishing throughout; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings, NAC black bridges.

Functions
Hours, minutes and power reserve indicator
Large balance wheel suspended above the dial

Case
Material: Titanium with “FlexRing” shock protection system
Diameter: 40.0 mm
Height: 16.5 mm
Number of components: 42
Lug-width: 17 mm
Lug-to-lug: 49 mm
High domed sapphire crystal on top and box sapphire crystal on back, both with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Water-resistance: 80m / 8ATM / 270 feet
Screw-down crown

Strap
Grey or white rubber strap with matching titanium folding buckle.

 

The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Jungle Green: Exotic color meets avant-garde watchmaking

Armin Strom has unveiled a new limited edition of its game-changing Gravity Equal Force timepiece with a striking off-center Jungle green dial featuring a hand-guilloche pattern. The independent Swiss luxury brand will produce only 15 pieces of the eye-catching watch.

Created to stand out, the newest interpretation of the epic Gravity Equal Force timepiece features an off-center Jungle green dial. Its dial’s guilloche pattern was created by Kari Voutilainen, the Finnish watchmaker who is also a close friend of the brand. The pattern’s horizontal lines appear in harmony with the three characteristic horizontal bridges of the Gravity Equal Force timepiece, which are visible on the movement side.

A matt black PVD-coated movement plate offers a stark contrast to the Jungle green dial, highlighting its luminosity. It also complements the other visible movement parts – the barrel and the micro-rotor and the polished screws and jewels. The ASB19 movement and the steel hands are developed and manufactured by Armin Strom and are meticulously hand-finished in-house.

Presented in a 41 mm stainless-steel case, the Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Jungle Green comes with a black alligator strap with black stitching, which underscores the stark contrast between the watch’s Jungle green dial and its black plate.

Groundbreaking technology, riveting design and craftsmanship that characterize every Armin Strom watch distinguish this timepiece. First launched in 2019, it is the world’s first automatic watch with constant force transmission, which results in consistent power delivery to the balance. In short, it means that the watch always delivers flawlessly constant precision. Its ASB19 caliber offers a power reserve of 72 hours. The Gravity Equal Force’s ASB19 movement includes a “stop work” mechanism that prevents the mainspring from fully unwinding, thus leveraging only the part of the mainspring’s unwinding process that can deliver power most consistently.

This remarkable new Gravity Equal Force timepiece was designed and produced in-house at the brand’s manufacture in Biel. Like every Armin Strom watch, its ASB19 automatic winding calibre has been assembled twice. After its first assembly, the movement is painstakingly disassembled and each individual part is cleaned, dried, reassembled and lubricated before being meticulously regulated, tested, and returned to the case.

The Gravity Equal Force Jungle Green has been released in an edition limited to 15 pieces and will be available from March 2022.

Technical specifications: Gravity Equal Force Jungle Green Dial Ref. AS/ID
ST19-GEF.30

Indications: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator

Movement: Armin Strom manufacture Caliber ASB19
Automatic winding with micro rotor, Geneva-drive equal force barrel, offset display with subdial seconds
Regulating system: Balance wheel with 4 regulating screws
Power reserve: Geneva stop-work limited to 72 hours
Dimensions: 35.52 mm x 11.67 mm
Frequency: 3,5 Hz (25,200 vph)
Finishing: Hand-finishing to the highest quality level
Jewels: 28
Number of components: 202

Case: Stainless steel
Sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12,65 mm
Water resistance: 3ATM

Dial: Jungle green colored hand guilloche by Kari Voutilainen, off-center dial with subdial Hands: Manufactured by Armin Strom, steel with hand finishing

Strap: Delivered with a black alligator leather strap with black stitching and stainless-steel double folding clasp

Price: CHF 22,900 / EUR 24,300 / GBP 20,600 / USD 22,900

Limited Edition: 15 pieces

Featured Watches in the Article:-

Gravity Equal Force Jungle Green Ref.ST19-GEF.30