The Ref. 5270 has long stood among the finest perpetual calendar chronographs ever produced by Patek Philippe. Now, with the introduction of the 5270P-016, the manufacture expands the family into a trio of striking platinum references, each sharing the same exceptional mechanics while expressing a unique character through colour.
At their core, the 5270P-015, 5270P-016, and 5270P-017 are identical masterpieces. Each is housed in a platinum case featuring the signature concave bezel and elegant two-tier lugs. Each is powered by the manually wound CH 29-535 PS Q calibre, combining a traditional column-wheel chronograph with a perpetual calendar enhanced by six patented chronograph innovations. And each retains the beautifully balanced dial layout that has become synonymous with the Ref. 5270.
Where they differ is in personality.
5270P-015: Understated Sophistication
The 5270P-015 pairs its platinum case with a sunburst charcoal grey lacquered dial that fades into a black-gradient rim. Combined with a black composite strap featuring cream-coloured stitching, it delivers the most understated and versatile expression of the collection.
The monochromatic palette gives the watch a contemporary, almost architectural presence, appealing to collectors who appreciate quiet elegance over visual drama.
5270P-016: The Modern Classic
The newly introduced 5270P-016 brings a vibrant blue lacquered dial into the collection, again framed by a subtle black-gradient edge. Blue stitching on the textured black composite strap perfectly complements the dial, creating a harmonious balance between sportiness and refinement.
Blue has become one of modern watchmaking’s most sought-after dial colours, yet Patek Philippe approaches it with remarkable restraint. The result is a watch that feels contemporary without chasing trends, allowing the legendary perpetual calendar chronograph to remain the true focal point.
5270P-017: A Bold Statement
For collectors seeking something more expressive, the 5270P-017 introduces a rich red lacquered dial with the same black-gradient finish. Paired with matching red stitching on the composite strap, it is undoubtedly the most daring interpretation of the trio.
While bold in appearance, the carefully executed lacquer finish and balanced dial architecture ensure that the watch remains unmistakably Patek Philippe, blending confidence with timeless elegance.
One Legendary Movement, Three Different Expressions
Across all three references, the familiar perpetual calendar display remains perfectly organised. The day and month appear through twin in-line apertures at 12 o’clock, while the date and moon phases occupy the display at 6 o’clock. White gold dauphine hands and a crisp white tachymeter scale ensure exceptional legibility against each dial colour.
Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the manually wound CH 29-535 PS Q calibre continues to showcase the artistry of traditional Swiss watchmaking through impeccable hand-finishing, refined decoration, and sophisticated engineering.
The EyesOnTime Perspective
With the 5270P-015, 5270P-016, and 5270P-017, Patek Philippe demonstrates how colour can transform the identity of an already iconic watch without altering its mechanical soul.
Whether one prefers the understated elegance of charcoal grey, the timeless appeal of blue, or the bold confidence of red, each reference celebrates the same enduring philosophy: exceptional complications, uncompromising craftsmanship, and design that transcends generations.
Rather than replacing one another, these three platinum references offer collectors three distinct interpretations of one of modern haute horlogerie’s greatest creations.
In a world where luxury watches often compete through complex complications and increasingly elaborate dials, the ELKA x Ace “Essence” MD09 takes the opposite approach. It strips away everything that isn’t essential, proving that true elegance often lies in restraint. Inspired by ELKA Watch Co.’s philosophy of “Form Follows Feeling,” the MD09 is a watch designed to be experienced rather than simply read.
A Collaboration Rooted in Minimalism
Created in collaboration with Ace Jewelers, the Serie D “The 36” Essence is a celebration of pure design. Limited to just 50 pieces worldwide, the watch removes traditional hour markers and numerals, allowing the dial itself to become the focal point. Instead of measuring time with visual precision, the MD09 invites the wearer to appreciate time through emotion and simplicity.
The Beauty of an Uninterrupted Blue Dial
The first thing that captures your attention is the stunning sunray blue dial.
Free from indices and numerals, the uninterrupted surface allows light to move effortlessly across the dial, creating changing shades of deep navy and electric blue depending on the viewing angle. The absence of visual clutter gives the watch a calming, almost meditative presence that is increasingly rare in modern watchmaking.
Designed to Feel Natural
Housed in ELKA’s signature 36mm pebble-shaped case, the MD09 reflects the brand’s focus on comfort and organic design. Its smooth contours recall vintage pocket watches, while the compact proportions make it equally suited to both contemporary and classic wrists.
Completing the design is ELKA’s distinctive Chevé-box sapphire crystal, whose generous curvature evokes the charm of vintage acrylic crystals while delivering the scratch resistance expected from modern sapphire.
Less Design. More Emotion.
The MD09 isn’t about displaying technical complexity. It’s about creating an emotional connection with the wearer.
By removing every unnecessary element, ELKA allows the dial, proportions and light to become the watch’s defining features. It’s a reminder that sometimes the most memorable designs are those confident enough to leave space for simplicity.
EyesOnTime’s Take
The ELKA x Ace “Essence” MD09 Blue Minimalist is a refreshing reminder that minimalism doesn’t have to feel empty. Every design choice has a purpose, from the uninterrupted blue dial to the perfectly balanced 36mm case.
For collectors who appreciate independent watchmaking, understated elegance and thoughtful design, the MD09 offers something increasingly rare in today’s market: a watch that whispers instead of shouting.
With the launch of the Royale Paris Chrono, Pequignet Manufacture opens an important new chapter in its history. Presented as the Maison’s first chronograph, this new creation is the result of several years of development and reflects the brand’s commitment to mechanical innovation, timeless design, and French watchmaking excellence.
Building on the success of its manufacture calibres, Pequignet has developed the Calibre Initial® Chronograph, bringing one of watchmaking’s most celebrated complications into the Royale Paris collection for the very first time.
The result is a chronograph that combines technical sophistication with the refined aesthetics that have become synonymous with modern Pequignet watchmaking.
The First Chronograph in the Royale Paris Collection
The Royale Paris Chrono represents a significant milestone for Pequignet as the first chronograph ever introduced within the Royale Paris collection.
While remaining faithful to the design language of the collection, the watch introduces a new level of functionality through a thoughtfully executed bi-compax chronograph display.
Available with either blue or red chronograph counters on an opaline dial, the Royale Paris Chrono delivers a contemporary interpretation of a classic complication while preserving the elegance expected from the collection.
The dial displays:
Small seconds at 3 o’clock
30-minute chronograph counter at 9 o’clock
The layout offers excellent legibility while maintaining visual balance.
Distinctive Royale Paris Design
The Royale Paris Chrono retains the signature features that define the collection.
Its stainless steel case features Pequignet’s distinctive attached lugs, creating a strong architectural identity and a refined presence on the wrist.
A more sculpted profile introduces a concave, gouge-shaped cut-out that extends around the dial, creating visual depth and reinforcing the watch’s contemporary character.
The result is a chronograph that feels elegant rather than overtly sporty, making it suitable for both formal and everyday wear.
The Calibre Initial® Chronograph
Powering the watch is the new Calibre Initial® Chronograph, the fifth movement developed by Pequignet Manufacture.
The movement is based on the Calibre Initial® architecture and incorporates a newly developed chronograph mechanism. To bring this complication to life, Pequignet collaborated with a renowned Swiss specialist in high-end watch complications.
This partnership combines French movement development and manufacturing expertise with specialist chronograph know-how, resulting in a movement that reflects the strengths of both traditions.
The Calibre Initial® Chronograph represents an important evolution of Pequignet’s manufacture capabilities and demonstrates the brand’s continued investment in movement development.
A Robust Cam-Operated Chronograph
Rather than using a column-wheel architecture, the Royale Paris Chrono employs a cam-operated chronograph system.
This design delivers crisp and reliable operation while offering excellent resistance to shocks and everyday use. The architecture aligns with the watch’s practical philosophy, prioritising durability and dependable performance.
Another notable technical feature is the offset stem system, which allows the crown and chronograph pushers to align harmoniously along the side of the case, contributing to the watch’s balanced appearance.
French Manufacturing Excellence
True to Pequignet’s manufacturing philosophy, the components used in the Royale Paris Chrono are sourced locally.
As with the Maison’s other manufacture movements, components are sourced within an 80-kilometre radius of the manufacture in Morteau, France. This localised approach reflects Pequignet’s commitment to preserving regional expertise and maintaining close relationships with specialist suppliers.
The Royale Paris Chrono therefore represents not only a technical achievement but also a celebration of contemporary French watchmaking.
Why the Royale Paris Chrono Matters
The luxury chronograph category is dominated by established Swiss names, making the Royale Paris Chrono particularly noteworthy.
It offers collectors:
The first chronograph in the Royale Paris collection
The fifth manufacture movement developed by Pequignet
Distinctive French design language
A locally sourced manufacturing approach
A sophisticated blend of French and Swiss watchmaking expertise
A refined alternative to traditional sports chronographs
For enthusiasts seeking something beyond the mainstream, the Royale Paris Chrono presents a compelling proposition.
Final Thoughts
The Pequignet Royale Paris Chrono is far more than a new model within the collection. It marks the arrival of the Manufacture’s first chronograph and demonstrates the brand’s ability to tackle one of watchmaking’s most iconic complications while remaining true to its French identity.
With its elegant architecture, refined dial execution and new Calibre Initial® Chronograph movement, the Royale Paris Chrono stands as one of the most significant releases in Pequignet’s modern history.
For collectors who appreciate independent watchmaking, technical development and distinctive design, the Royale Paris Chrono is a chronograph well worth discovering.
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic
For the first time in its history, H. Moser & Cie. is venturing into the world of ceramics, opting for this technically demanding material to enhance the flowing lines of its most iconic collection: Streamliner. The cushion case and integrated bracelet are crafted from anthracite grey ceramic with alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces. With neither indices nor logo, the Red fumé Grand Feu enamel dial illuminates this crisp architecture, while the flying tourbillon with double hairspring injects dynamism. With the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic model, the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture underscores its commitment to watchmaking that is forward-looking, precise, masterful and resolutely timeless.
Ceramic: a decisive, self-evident choice. The Streamliner collection marks H. Moser & Cie.’s entry into this new territory. With its cushion case and integrated bracelet made entirely from anthracite grey ceramic, the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramics boldly asserts its personality and character. The material naturally embraces the organic lines of the collection, cultivating the aesthetic without constraining it. The surfaces play with the effects of light in a masterful choreography. Vertical satin finishing on the bracelet, subtle polishing on the edges, circular satin finishing on the case: the characteristic finishes of the Streamliner find in ceramics a demanding medium for expression. They are hand-applied to reveal the depth of the material, its density and colour. An intense, absorbing dark anthracite grey.
Unalterable, lightweight and hypoallergenic, ceramic offers unexpected comfort and a durability suited to everyday use. Pleasant to the touch and almost warm for a mineral material, its most distinctive feature is its absolute stability. Unaffected by time, it is synonymous with mastery and precision. A material defined by its future-oriented expression.
At the heart of this restrained anthracite grey lies a striking contrast: a Red fumé dial of a rare chromatic depth. True to its unique approach, H. Moser & Cie. has reinvented the ancient art of Grand Feu enamelling, bringing it firmly into the modern era. A textured pattern is engraved on a white gold base to create a hammered effect. Two enamel pigments, washed, ground and applied in a gradient, create a vibrant colour generated by successive firings. Never pixellated, always alive. The result is an intense, luminous, almost incandescent Red fumé dial, devoid of indices and logos in line with the brand’s minimalist philosophy.
At 6 o’clock, a one-minute flying tourbillon energises the overall composition. The HMC 805 automatic calibre that drives the watch is equipped with a double hairspring designed and produced in-house by H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company, Precision Engineering AG. This pair of matching hairsprings improves accuracy and isochronism, compensating for the effects of shifts in the centre of gravity when the springs expand. The bridges and main plate, finished in anthracite grey, offer a subtle contrast to the red gold oscillating weight, emphasising the contemporary elegance of the movement.
With the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic model, H. Moser & Cie. is embarking on a new chapter and expanding its creative horizons by incorporating a material as exacting as it is radical into its creative language.
H. Moser & Cie.’s own and unique take on Haute Horlogerie.
Reference 6805-2100, anthracite grey ceramic model, Red fumé dial, integrated bracelet in anthracite grey ceramic
Case
Anthracite grey ceramic
Diameter: 40.0 mm
Height without sapphire crystal: 11.0 mm
Height with sapphire crystal: 12.8 mm
Screw-in crown adorned with an engraved “M”
See-through sapphire crystal case-back
Water-resistant to 12 ATM
Dial
Red fumé Grand Feu enamel with hammered texture
Hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts
Movement
HMC 805 automatic calibre
Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
Height: 5.5 mm
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
Skeletonised oscillating weight in 18-carat red gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo
Power reserve: minimum 3 days
Original double hairspring
One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonised bridge
Anthracite finish with Moser double stripes
Partially skeletonised bridges
Functions
Hours and minutes
Bracelet
Integrated bracelet in anthracite grey ceramic
Folding clasp with three blades, engraved with the Moser logo
With the Delphis Art Deco, Chronoswiss presents a bold reinterpretation of one of its most iconic complications. Inspired by the design language of the Roaring Twenties, this new edition pays tribute to an era defined by artistic freedom, architectural clarity, and a fascination with modern progress.
The Art Deco movement that flourished during the 1920s reshaped the visual culture of its time. From architecture and graphic design to fashion and industrial objects, it introduced a new aesthetic built on geometry, symmetry, and refined contrasts. It was a period where craftsmanship met innovation, and where decorative arts embraced modernity without abandoning tradition.
These values resonate deeply with the philosophy of Chronoswiss today.
With the Delphis Art Deco, the brand translates this spirit into a contemporary mechanical sculpture for the wrist.
A Dial inspired by Art Deco Geometry
At the center of the Delphis Art Deco lies a dial that reflects the architectural elegance of the Art Deco era.
The main dial surface is nickel-coated and laser-structured, creating a subtle three- dimensional texture that plays with light and shadow. Its refined grey tone evokes the metallic elegance and restrained color palettes characteristic of Art Deco design.
Hovering above this surface is the distinctive Delphis display. At 12 o’clock, the jumping hour advances instantly at the top of each hour. At the center, the retrograde minute hand sweeps across the curved scale before snapping back to its starting position. At the lower part of the dial, the small seconds rotate continuously.
For the small seconds, Chronoswiss introduces a baby-blue azur tone, achieved through a unique lacquer on a hand-guilloché base. The intricate guilloché pattern is engraved in- house at the Atelier Lucerne using century-old machines, creating a dynamic texture beneath the Art Deco-inspired white typography.
The gold-plated minute ring adds a warm contrast to the cool grey dial and reinforces the geometric clarity that defines the entire composition.
Modern Presence – Crafted in Lucerne
The 42 mm case of the Delphis Art Deco is crafted from Grade 5 titanium and finished in a matte grey tone. Lightweight yet exceptionally durable, the material lends the watch a modern architectural presence while ensuring comfort on the wrist.
Paired with a black nubuck strap, the piece balances the bold mechanical architecture of the Delphis complication with a refined contemporary aesthetic.
Powering the Delphis Art Deco is the Chronoswiss Manufacture Caliber C.6004, developed together with La Joux-Perret. The automatic movement offers a 55-hour power reserve and is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Inside, traditional finishing techniques meet modern engineering, reflecting the same philosophy that defines the watch itself: heritage craftsmanship expressed through contemporary watchmaking.
A new chapter for an Icon
The Delphis has long been one of the most recognizable complications within the Chronoswiss universe and has remained an icon since its introduction in 1996.
With the Delphis Art Deco, Chronoswiss revisits this emblematic complication through the lens of one of history’s most influential design movements.
A mechanical tribute to the Roaring Twenties – reimagined for the collectors of today.
• Complication: Jumping Hour, Retrograde Minute, Analogue Seconds • Dial: Small Seconds Hand Guilloché
• Movement: Manufacture Caliber C.6004, automatic
• Water Resistance: 10 ATM
Technical Data
Model: Delphis Art Deco, limited to 150 pieces
Reference: CH-1423TM.1-GRGO Titanium Grade 5
Displays: Digital hour at 12 o’clock, retrograde & central minute, analog second at 6 o’clock
Case: Solid 17-piece Titanium Grade 5 case with matte finish, cut and polished, polished bezel with side fluted decorative ring and cambered, double anti-reflective sapphire crystal; screwed and satin- finished case back with sapphire crystal, onion crown, water-resistant to 10 bar, screw-down straps with patented autobloc system
Measurements: Ø 42 mm, height 14.4 mm
Movement: Chronoswiss manufacture caliber C. 6004, automatic
Diameter: Ø33mm
Jewels: 37
Balance: Glucydur, three-legged
Balance spring: Nivarox 1
Fine Adjustment: Via Excenter
Shock protection: Incabloc
Frequency: 4 Hz., 28‘800 A/h (semi-oscillations)
Power reserve: Approx. 55 hours
Special features: Skeletonized rotor made of tungsten, ball bearing; armature, escape wheel and screws polished; bridge with Geneva cut, ruthenium plated
Dial: 3-dimensional construction, upper level lasered with nickel-coating/ digital hour display. Central retrograde minute, analog second at 6 o’clock with hand Guilloché lacquer blue, Minute Ring gold plated.
Hands: Pointer shape “Viking”, aluminium / satinated / blue PVD-coating
Maison Trilobe has never been interested in making conventional watches. Since its debut, the independent French watchmaker has challenged traditional horology with its patented rotating ring display that eliminates conventional hands. With the launch of the Trente-Deux Secret Edition, Trilobe takes its philosophy a step further, transforming personal memories into wearable works of art through a unique combination of astronomy, craftsmanship, and haute horlogerie.
In luxury watchmaking, personalization often means choosing a dial colour, engraving initials, or selecting a bespoke strap. The Maison Trilobe Trente-Deux Secret Edition offers something far more meaningful. Every watch features a custom star map recreating the exact night sky from a date, time, and location chosen by its owner, turning a cherished memory into a permanent celestial signature on the dial.
Whether commemorating a wedding, the birth of a child, an engagement, or a defining life milestone, the Trente-Deux Secret Edition transforms a fleeting moment into a timeless object. It is not merely a luxury watch; it is a deeply personal story told through the language of the stars.
A Truly Unique Luxury Watch
At the heart of the Trente-Deux Secret Edition lies a sophisticated astronomical algorithm capable of recreating the precise appearance of the night sky at any meaningful moment. The system incorporates more than 1,600 constellations and is based on the work of renowned Belgian astronomer Jean Meeus, whose astronomical calculations remain a benchmark in the scientific community.
The algorithm accounts for celestial coordinates, the Earth’s movement around the Sun, and the tilt of its axis to determine the exact position of stars at a specific date, time, and location. As a result, every dial becomes entirely unique, ensuring that no two Secret Edition watches are ever identical.
For collectors, this means owning a timepiece that preserves a personal memory with scientific precision and artistic beauty.
From Celestial Data to Horological Art
Creating a personalized star map dial requires more than advanced calculations. It also demands exceptional craftsmanship.
Each constellation is first engraved onto a dedicated metal plate before being transferred onto the dial using a meticulous pad-printing process. Artisans apply powdered silver ink in successive micro-deposits, gradually building the stars layer by layer. Multiple lacquer applications then create depth and luminosity, giving the impression of celestial bodies floating across the night sky.
The entire process takes place in a controlled clean-room environment, ensuring absolute precision and preserving the purity of the dial. The result is a miniature celestial landscape where technical mastery meets artistic expression.
The Distinctive Trente-Deux Display
The Secret Edition is housed within the Trente-Deux collection, one of Trilobe’s most distinctive creations. Rather than relying on traditional hands, time is displayed through the Maison’s patented system of three rotating rings that indicate hours, minutes, and seconds on a single plane.
This innovative display creates a striking sense of motion while maintaining exceptional legibility. Combined with the personalized star map dial, it reinforces the idea that both time and memories are constantly in motion, yet capable of being preserved.
Powered by the In-House X-Nihilo Calibre
Driving the Trente-Deux Secret Edition is the X-Nihilo calibre, Maison Trilobe’s first in-house movement. Designed, developed, assembled, and regulated entirely in Paris, the movement reflects the brand’s commitment to independent watchmaking and technical excellence.
Technical Specifications
Movement
In-house X-Nihilo calibre
Self-winding mechanical movement
42-hour power reserve
28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz)
34 jewels
218 components
7mm movement thickness
Case
Available in 316L stainless steel or 18k rose gold
Sapphire crystal with multi-layer anti-reflective treatment
Sapphire exhibition caseback
Water-resistant to 50 metres (5 bar)
Display
Patented rotating ring indication for hours, minutes and seconds
No traditional hands
Steel and Rose Gold Interpretations
The Trente-Deux Secret Edition is available in two distinct versions.
The stainless steel model is paired with an integrated steel bracelet, enhancing the contemporary architecture of the case. Meanwhile, the 18k rose gold version introduces a more relaxed elegance through a specially developed blue rubber strap that perfectly complements the sunray blue celestial dial.
Both versions maintain the collection’s refined aesthetic while offering different personalities for collectors seeking either modern versatility or warm sophistication.
More Than a Personalized Watch
The true achievement of the Trente-Deux Secret Edition lies in its ability to merge emotion with engineering. While many luxury watches celebrate mechanical innovation, few create such a direct connection between the wearer and the timepiece itself.
Every star on the dial represents a real celestial position from a specific moment in someone’s life. Every watch becomes a one-of-one creation. In an industry obsessed with limited editions, Trilobe has created something even rarer: a watch that cannot be replicated.
Final Thoughts
The Maison Trilobe Trente-Deux Secret Edition stands as one of the most original personalized luxury watches of 2025. Combining astronomical precision, artisanal craftsmanship, innovative watchmaking, and emotional storytelling, it offers collectors an entirely new way to experience time.
Rather than simply measuring the passing hours, the Trente-Deux Secret Edition preserves a moment forever. And in a world where every second disappears as quickly as it arrives, that may be the most meaningful luxury of all.
When Tudor introduced the Black Bay Ceramic in 2021, it marked a major milestone for the brand. It was the first Tudor to achieve METAS Master Chronometer certification, bringing a new level of technical credibility to the Black Bay collection while introducing a stealth-inspired all-black ceramic aesthetic.
Now, Tudor has refined that concept further with the latest Black Bay Ceramic, a watch that retains its high-performance credentials while introducing one of the most significant design upgrades yet: a full ceramic bracelet.
The result is a watch that feels more cohesive, more technical, and more purpose-built than ever before.
Ceramic Beyond the Case
The Black Bay Ceramic is housed in a 41mm matte black ceramic case that combines contemporary styling with exceptional durability. Ceramic remains one of the most desirable materials in modern sports watchmaking due to its resistance to scratches and its ability to retain its appearance over years of wear.
The case measures 13.6mm thick and is fitted with a domed sapphire crystal. Tudor pairs the ceramic middle case with a black PVD-treated steel screw-down crown and a black PVD-treated steel unidirectional rotating bezel fitted with a black ceramic insert.
Water resistance remains rated to 200 metres, preserving the robust dive-watch capability that defines the Black Bay collection.
The Full Ceramic Bracelet
The defining feature of this latest Black Bay Ceramic is its full ceramic bracelet.
While ceramic cases have become increasingly common across the industry, ceramic bracelets remain considerably more difficult to engineer due to their complexity and manufacturing tolerances. Tudor’s execution creates a seamless extension of the matte black case, giving the watch a striking monochromatic appearance.
A particularly impressive detail is the bracelet’s concealed side-profile construction, which creates a cleaner visual flow across the links while maintaining practical serviceability through screw-fixed components.
The bracelet is secured by a clasp incorporating steel blades, combining durability with long-term structural integrity.
A Charcoal Dial with Subtle Depth
Despite its stealth-focused appearance, the dial offers more nuance than first impressions suggest.
The domed dial features a charcoal sunray finish that interacts dynamically with light, adding depth and texture to the otherwise monochromatic design. Applied hour markers and Tudor’s signature Snowflake hands are filled with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova, ensuring strong low-light legibility.
The Snowflake handset remains one of the most recognisable design signatures within Tudor’s modern catalogue, directly linking the watch to the brand’s historic dive-watch heritage.
The overall execution balances functionality with restraint, avoiding unnecessary colour while maintaining excellent readability.
Master Chronometer Certified Performance
Powering the Black Bay Ceramic is the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U, an automatic movement developed to meet some of the industry’s most demanding performance standards.
The movement is certified as a Master Chronometer by METAS, an independent certification that evaluates the fully assembled watch under real-world operating conditions. Testing covers precision, water resistance, power reserve and resistance to magnetic fields.
Key specifications include:
METAS Master Chronometer certification
Resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss
Approximately 70-hour power reserve
COSC-certified chronometer performance
Silicon balance spring
Variable-inertia balance wheel secured beneath a traversing bridge
Bidirectional automatic winding system
This combination of precision, durability and anti-magnetic performance places the Black Bay Ceramic among the most technically capable watches in its category.
Modern Materials, Traditional Tool-Watch DNA
The Black Bay Ceramic succeeds because it does more than simply apply ceramic to an existing design.
The addition of a full ceramic bracelet transforms the watch’s character, creating a more complete and cohesive interpretation of Tudor’s modern tool-watch philosophy. Combined with Master Chronometer certification, strong anti-magnetic protection and the proven MT5602-U movement, the watch delivers substance alongside its distinctive appearance.
In a market increasingly crowded with ceramic sports watches, the Black Bay Ceramic stands out by offering advanced materials, certified performance and thoughtful engineering within a package that remains true to Tudor’s practical watchmaking ethos.
Technical Specifications
Model: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Reference: M7941A1ACNU-0001
Case Diameter: 41mm
Case Thickness: 13.6mm
Case Material: Matte black ceramic
Bezel: Black PVD-treated steel unidirectional bezel with black ceramic insert
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal
Dial: Charcoal sunray-brushed dial
Hands: Tudor Snowflake hands with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova
Created as a poetic expression of the eternal relationship between the Sun and the Moon, SKYDANCE is one of the most refined feminine creations to emerge from Les Ateliers Louis Moinet in recent years. It is delicate without feeling fragile, technical without appearing complex, and luxurious in a way that feels deeply emotional rather than overtly extravagant.
A Watch Inspired by the Sky
The idea behind SKYDANCE is beautifully simple. The Sun and Moon, two celestial bodies that have guided humanity for centuries, become the central characters of an elegant mechanical performance. While the Moon rests quietly on a disc made from genuine lunar meteorite, the Sun moves continuously across the dial in a graceful sixty-second rotation.
What makes the watch captivating is the way Louis Moinet transforms astronomy into emotion. The dial feels alive. Light shifts across the white mother-of-pearl surface, diamonds shimmer subtly as hour markers, and the aventurine backdrop creates the illusion of a night sky filled with stars. Nothing feels excessive. Every detail has purpose.
The rotating Sun is particularly mesmerising. Instead of relying on dramatic complications, SKYDANCE creates visual theatre through motion and texture. It is the kind of watch that quietly draws attention the longer you look at it.
Rare Materials, Thoughtfully Used
Luxury today is no longer only about precious metals or gem-setting. It is increasingly about craftsmanship, rarity, and storytelling. SKYDANCE understands this perfectly.
The inclusion of Dhofar 457 lunar meteorite immediately gives the piece a sense of authenticity and wonder. This is not decorative imitation but an actual fragment connected to space and time itself. Combined with aventurine, mother-of-pearl, white ceramic, and grade 5 titanium, the watch feels contemporary while still deeply romantic.
At 35.6 mm, the proportions are elegant and wearable. The titanium construction keeps the watch light on the wrist, while the ceramic bezel adds brightness and modernity. Details such as the fleur-de-lys crown and white ceramic cabochons on the lugs reinforce the artisanal nature of the piece without overpowering the design.
A Feminine Watch Without Stereotypes
One of the strongest aspects of SKYDANCE is that it does not rely on clichés often associated with women’s watches. It is not simply a smaller version of an existing model, nor does it depend solely on diamonds to create desirability.
Instead, Louis Moinet approaches femininity through emotion, artistry, and storytelling. The result is a watch that feels intelligent and expressive. It speaks to collectors who appreciate fine watchmaking but also want personality and poetry on the wrist.
The two versions, each limited to just 28 pieces, enhance that exclusivity. One model features a bezel set with six diamonds, while the second elevates the brilliance further with sixty diamonds representing every minute of the hour.
The Movement Behind the Magic
Inside SKYDANCE is the automatic LM58 calibre, operating at 4 Hz with a 42-hour power reserve. While technically impressive, the movement is designed to support the watch’s artistic vision rather than dominate it.
Even the oscillating weight continues the celestial theme, featuring a decorative Sun and Moon motif visible through the sapphire caseback. It is a thoughtful touch that ensures the storytelling continues from every angle.
A Meaningful Year for Louis Moinet
The launch of SKYDANCE arrives during an important period for the maison. In 2026, Louis Moinet celebrates the 210th anniversary of the world’s first chronograph, originally completed in 1816, as well as the 220th anniversary of the historic year 1806, when Louis Moinet created remarkable pieces for figures including Napoléon Bonaparte.
That heritage matters because SKYDANCE does not feel disconnected from the brand’s identity. Even though it is distinctly feminine, it still carries the same fascination with astronomy, mechanics, and artistic craftsmanship that has defined Louis Moinet for generations.
Final Thoughts
SKYDANCE is not designed to shout. Its beauty lies in its restraint, its motion, and the emotion it creates on the wrist. In an industry increasingly driven by louder designs and larger cases, Louis Moinet has chosen to create something softer, more intimate, and ultimately more memorable.
It is a watch that captures the magic of looking up at the night sky and translating that feeling into haute horlogerie. And in doing so, SKYDANCE becomes more than a timepiece. It becomes a small universe of its own.
Model SKYDANCE
LM-132.20.80 with 17 diamonds – limited edition to 28 pieces
LM-132.2D.80 with 71 diamonds – limited edition to 28 pieces
CASE
Material Polished and satin-finished grade 5 titanium, white ceramic bezel
Set with 6 diamonds VVS 0.159 ct (ø 1.90 mm)
Or version with 60 diamonds VVS 0.65 ct
(54 pcs ø 1.20 mm and 6 pcs ø 1.90 mm)
Ceramic cabochons on the lugs
Grade 5 titanium crown with fleur-de-lys and white ceramic ring
Crystal Sapphire crystal | Double-sided anti-reflective coating
Diameter 35.60 mm
Height 12.10 mm
Water resistance 50 metres
DIAL
Dial White mother-of-pearl
11 diamonds VVS 0.12 ct (9 pcs ø 1.20 mm and 2 pcs ø 1.60 mm)
Dhofar 457 lunar meteorite
Black aventurine
Hands Dewdrop hour and minute hands, black nickel with SNL
MOVEMENT
Calibre LM58
Oscillating weight Sun and moon decoration. Four elements: a rhodium-plated base, a polished gold-toned sun, a black PVD disc, and a gold-toned applied moon.
Dimensions Diameter: 26 mm | Height: 5.25 mm
Functions Hours | Minutes
Animation Rotating sun (60 seconds)
Type Self-winding mechanism
Parts 183
Oscillations 28,800 vph
Frequency 4 Hz
Jewels 28
Power reserve 42 hours
STRAP
Material Genuine rubber with a satin texture
Alligator strap available in various colours upon request
Clasp Steel folding clasp
Jaquet Droz unveils a unique piece in which watchmaking artistry becomes breath, colour and poetry. Between heritage and contemporary audacity, the Maison elevates an iconic motif into a true artistic statement, venturing for the first time into the territory of Inflatable Art, where form acquires a sense of volume animated by lightness. An art watch conceived as a showcase for emotion, marking the return of Jaquet Droz’s iconic birds, destined to reinvent themselves in other decorations.
One look is all it takes to change the mood. On the dial, two blue tits with generous, almost buoyant forms, seemingly puffed up with joy, nestle in the heart of a miniature garden. Around them, softly rounded blossoms burst forth in delicate hues while, in the background, the mineral silhouette of the Great Wall of China stretches across the horizon. With the Joyful Birds “Great Wall”, Jaquet Droz unveils a new, joyful and vibrant art watch, like a smile suspended on the wrist.
Born of a co-creation with a collector, the piece places a bespoke timepiece within an emblematic Chinese setting, evoking a universal symbol of happiness. Jaquet Droz has thus chosen to revive its birds, an enduring and historic signature of the Maison. A subtle nod to the birds that once animated the automata of Pierre Jaquet-Droz during the Age of Enlightenment, these two blue tits now serve as a bridge between heritage and a resolutely contemporary vision of watchmaking artistry.
For with this creation, Jaquet Droz ventures into a hitherto unexplored artistic territory: an aesthetic drawn directly from Inflatable Art, where forms swell with volume, soften into rounded contours and embrace an almost playful dimension. The birds and flowers seem shaped from colour itself, as if the material had been gently inflated to take on a sculptural form. The effect is instant: the dial gains depth, presence and a sense of vitality. It conveys more than just a scene: it breathes life into an entire universe.
This artistic approach opens up an entirely new path: a form of artistic watchmaking that exudes effortless lightness, where apparent simplicity conceals deep sophistication. Assembling the scene requires a delicate balance between depth and finesse to preserve the dial’s readability, while the miniature painting, executed with absolute precision, sculpts shadows and highlights to bring the forms to life. Finally, the colouring demands infinite patience in the face of countless trials and adjustments, until joy is captured perfectly within the 41-mm 18-karat red gold case. On the reverse, the oscillating weight is adorned with a mother-of-pearl applique, like a hidden gleam.
Joyful Birds “Great Wall” is not merely a unique piece: it heralds the beginning of a creative promise. Jaquet Droz’s historic birds rest here as a timeless signature, destined to appear across myriad landscapes, where heritage serves as a starting point and poetry becomes a form of freedom.
There are watches that impress immediately, and then there are watches that become more interesting the longer you look at them. The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date falls into the second category.
At first glance, the watch is visually striking because of the openworked dial and the large tourbillon at 6 o’clock. But after a few moments, the smaller details start standing out — the way the date hand jumps over the tourbillon opening, the depth created by the different layers of the movement, and how restrained the overall design still feels despite everything happening on the dial.
That balance is probably what Jaeger-LeCoultre does best.
The Dial Feels Thought Through
Skeletonised watches can sometimes feel overly technical or difficult to read. That is not the case here.
The dial has enough openness to showcase the mechanics while still maintaining structure and clarity. Crafted from 18K pink gold (750/1000), it features a richly detailed barleycorn guilloché pattern beneath deep blue translucent enamel, adding depth and texture without feeling distracting. The warm tones of the pink gold case further soften the watch’s highly technical appearance, giving it a more refined and approachable character.
The tourbillon naturally becomes the focal point, but it does not dominate the entire watch. Your eyes continue moving across the dial because there are layers everywhere — polished bridges, sharp finishing, open spaces, and different depths that change depending on the light.
Nothing looks decorative for the sake of it. Everything feels placed carefully.
The Jumping Date Is the Best Part
The most satisfying detail on this watch is easily the date display.
Instead of letting the pointer date hand cut across the tourbillon opening, Jaeger-LeCoultre engineered it to jump over the lower section of the dial. When the hand reaches the tourbillon aperture, it instantly advances to the other side.
It is a small mechanical decision, but it changes the experience of the watch completely.
The dial stays cleaner, the tourbillon remains fully visible, and the date complication suddenly becomes something interactive rather than something you ignore. It adds character without trying too hard to do so.
This is the kind of feature that collectors tend to appreciate more over time.
Complicated Without Feeling Heavy
A lot of high-complication watches try to show everything at once. This one does not.
The 24-hour display at 12 o’clock is subtle and useful, especially since it can work as a second time zone indication. The dauphine hands remain clean and easy to read, and the proportions of the case help keep the watch elegant on the wrist.
Even at 42mm, it avoids feeling oversized because the case design is relatively slim and curved.
Most importantly, the watch still feels wearable. That matters because some complicated pieces end up feeling more like demonstrations than actual watches someone would enjoy spending time with.
Calibre 978 Still Holds Up
Inside is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Calibre 978, a movement that has already earned a strong reputation over the years.
What makes this version interesting is how much attention has gone into its presentation. The openworked layout allows you to see far more of the movement architecture, and the finishing is visible from nearly every angle.
You notice the polished edges first, then the brushing, the Geneva stripes, and the way light reflects differently across the bridges. It feels properly handcrafted.
There is also restraint in the finishing. Jaeger-LeCoultre has not overdesigned the movement to make it look aggressive or futuristic. It still feels classic, which suits the Master Grande Tradition collection perfectly.
One of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Strongest Recent Releases
The Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date works because it focuses on execution instead of excess.
The complications make sense, the movement feels cohesive with the design, and the watch avoids becoming visually overwhelming even though there is a lot happening mechanically.
It is also the kind of watch that becomes more enjoyable over time because the appeal is in the details rather than one dramatic feature.
That is probably why this feels like one of the more complete releases from Watches and Wonders 2026 — not because it is the loudest watch in the room, but because every part of it feels considered.
Technicals Specifications
Calibre
In-House Calibre: 978
Movement type
Automatic winding
Thickness
6.45mm
Vibtrations per hour
28800
Frequency (HZ)
4
Power Reserve
45 hours
Functions
Tourbillon, Seconde sur tourbillon, Hour – Minute, 24-hour display, Date a aiguille
Some watch designs tell time. Others become part of fashion history.
The Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas and Bulgari Tubogas creations belong firmly in the latter category. With the Gold & Steel universe, Bvlgari revisits one of its most iconic design signatures — blending precious yellow gold with industrial steel in a way only the Roman maison can.
The result is bold, fluid, sensual, and unmistakably Bulgari.
The Story Behind Tubogas
Tubogas is one of Bulgari’s most recognizable design techniques, inspired by the flexible gas pipes used in industrial and architectural engineering during the early 20th century.
What makes the construction remarkable is its seamless coil-like structure. The bracelet wraps around the wrist with extraordinary flexibility and comfort, achieved without traditional soldering techniques.
Over time, Tubogas evolved from an industrial inspiration into a defining Bulgari aesthetic — transforming rigid metal into something fluid, sculptural, and almost alive.
Today, it remains one of the strongest expressions of the maison’s ability to merge jewellery craftsmanship with watchmaking design.
Gold & Steel: A Perfect Tubogas Combination
The Gold & Steel executions elevate the Tubogas concept even further.
By combining polished stainless steel with warm yellow gold, Bulgari creates dramatic contrast across the flowing coils of the bracelet. The alternating metals amplify the architectural curves while adding depth, texture, and visual rhythm to the design.
The beauty of Tubogas lies in this tension:
Industrial yet luxurious
Bold yet elegant
Vintage-inspired yet thoroughly modern
Rather than feeling like a traditional two-tone watch, the Gold & Steel Tubogas pieces feel like wearable sculpture.
The steel gives the watch everyday versatility and contemporary edge, while gold introduces richness and unmistakable Roman glamour.
The Serpenti Tubogas Identity
Few watches are as instantly recognizable as the Serpenti Tubogas.
Inspired by the serpent — a long-standing symbol of transformation and seduction — the watch coils naturally around the wrist like a living form. The Tubogas bracelet enhances this fluidity, creating an almost organic presence despite the precision of its metal construction.
In Gold & Steel versions, the contrast between polished gold and steel gives the serpent-inspired silhouette even greater presence.
It is jewellery.
It is watchmaking.
It is fashion.
And it remains one of the most iconic creations in modern luxury design.
Why Tubogas Still Feels Contemporary
Many heritage watch designs struggle to remain relevant decades later. Tubogas does the opposite.
Its sculptural form feels perfectly aligned with today’s luxury landscape, where collectors increasingly appreciate strong design identity over traditional conservatism.
The Gold & Steel aesthetic also makes the watch more versatile:
Easier to style daily than full gold
More elevated than pure steel
Distinctive without being excessive
This balance is precisely why mixed-metal luxury watches continue gaining popularity among modern collectors.
But Bvlgari’s interpretation feels different because Tubogas was never designed to follow trends. It was created to challenge conventions from the beginning.
Every curve of the bracelet reflects movement.
Every polished surface catches light differently.
Every coil reinforces the watch’s sculptural identity.
The Gold & Steel Tubogas creations are not minimalist watches designed to disappear.
They are designed to be seen.
And decades after their debut, they remain among the boldest expressions of jewellery-watchmaking ever created.
Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase Spring Blossom: A Poetic Celebration of Haute Couture and Horology
Swiss luxury watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has unveiled the Égérie Moon Phase Spring Blossom, a limited edition timepiece that captures the fleeting beauty of springtime blossoms through artisanal craftsmanship and refined watchmaking. Limited to just 100 pieces worldwide, the new creation combines Haute Horlogerie with the poetic codes of Haute Couture.
Presented in a 37mm 18K 5N pink gold case, the Égérie Moon Phase Spring Blossom features a luminous pink mother-of-pearl dial paired with a hand-painted calfskin strap adorned with delicate floral motifs. The Maison describes this as the first time miniature painting has been applied directly to a watch strap in this manner.
Inspired by the Poetry of Spring
The latest addition to the Égérie collection draws inspiration from the soft pink and white blossoms that define springtime landscapes. The watch embraces an entirely pink palette, with tonal variations enhancing its romantic and feminine aesthetic.
Its moon phase display sits between 1 and 3 o’clock within a diamond-set circular aperture aligned with the winding crown, itself set with a moonstone. Gold moons emerge from mother-of-pearl clouds against a dusky pink sky, adding depth and visual poetry to the composition.
Each piece in the limited edition is subtly unique due to the natural variations of mother-of-pearl and the hand-painted artistry of the strap.
Haute Couture Meets Haute Horlogerie
Since its launch in 2020, the Égérie collection has drawn heavily from the world of Haute Couture, translating textile-inspired details into horological design. Pleated textures on the dial evoke the movement of fabric, while the asymmetrical display and intertwined circles reflect the elegance of couture tailoring.
The Spring Blossom edition deepens this connection through its interchangeable strap system. Alongside the hand-painted calfskin strap, the watch is delivered with two additional options: a shiny raspberry-pink alligator strap and a blush-pink grosgrain fabric strap, each fitted with its own pink gold buckle.
Vacheron Constantin’s Product & Innovation Director, Sandrine Donguy, explained that the project was conceived as a fusion of traditional decorative crafts and modern experimentation. By applying miniature painting to the strap rather than the dial or case, the Maison sought to evolve métiers d’art in new directions while preserving artisanal know-how.
A Floral Legacy Spanning More Than Two Centuries
Flowers have long played a role in Vacheron Constantin’s design language. The Maison traces this botanical inspiration back over 200 years, referencing historical pocket watches and pendant watches embellished with floral engravings, enamel work, pearls, and precious stones.
The influence of Art Nouveau during the early 20th century also played a role in shaping these creations, with organic forms and floral motifs transforming timepieces into wearable works of art.
TECHNICAL DATA
ÉGÉRIE MOON PHASE SPRING BLOSSOM
Reference 8005F/000R – H157
Calibre 1088 L
Manufacture calibre Mechanical, self-winding
30 mm (9’’’) in diameter, 5.03 mm thick
Approximately 40-hour power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
164 components
24 jewels
37 mm in diameter; 10.08 mm thick
Bezel set with 58 diamonds
Crown set with a moonstone
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Pink calfskin watch presentation pouch with printed blossom motif and pink calfskin strap case
Total diamond-setting 94 diamonds, for a total weight of approx. 1.10 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)
Limited and numbered edition of 100 pieces
Available exclusively through Vacheron Constantin boutiques, the Égérie Moon Phase Spring Blossom stands as a poetic expression of femininity, craftsmanship, and the enduring dialogue between Haute Couture and Haute Horlogerie.
For decades, the world of watch collecting has been defined by legacy, lineage, and a certain unspoken exclusivity. TickTockBelles doesn’t attempt to disrupt that narrative—it simply rewrites it with quiet precision. Founded by Deborah Wong and Stephanie Soh, the platform brings a new kind of authority to horology—one that feels instinctive rather than inherited, personal rather than performative.
What Deborah and Stephanie have built isn’t about claiming space—it’s about redefining it. Their approach to watch collecting feels intimate, self-assured, and deeply considered, where every piece carries a story and every conversation invites more voices in. In an industry that has often spoken at women, TickTockBelles speaks with them—cultivating a community that is as discerning as it is inclusive.
We spoke to Deborah Wong and Stephanie Soh about what sparked TickTockBelles, the subtle biases still shaping the industry, and what needs to change for the next generation of collectors.
What triggered the creation of TickTockBelles—was it a gap you saw, or a barrier you experienced?
The founding of TickTockBelles in 2022 was triggered by a combination of a gap in the market for a female centric watch community and barrier in the industry for gender inclusivity.
The Gap (Lack of a female centric watch community): As frequent recipients of questions from other women looking for timepieces guidance, we identified a need for a female-focused platform to support interest in watch collecting.
The Barrier (Lack of advocates for gender inclusivity): Depending on the market, we observed that the luxury watch space was historically imbalance in gender inclusivity. Female watch enthusiasts may be perceived as uninterested in mechanical complications or craftsmanship. Sales personnel frequently focus on promoting trends or jewel watches to female clientele, rather than the technical appreciation of the timepiece, which created a less than conducive retail experience for serious women collectors.
In one sentence: what does TickTockBelles stand for that the watch industry currently doesn’t?
TickTockBelles stands for a dedicated, safe, and inclusive community that fosters genuine horological passion among women without the ego, hype, or gender bias often found in the traditionally male-dominated watch industry.
What’s the most subtle form of bias women face in watch collecting today?
The Most Subtle Form of Bias: “Dismissive Retail Experiences”
Mansplaining and Underestimation: The most subtle, yet pervasive, bias is the assumptions that female collectors lack technical knowledge, leading to “mansplaining” about watch complications.
Superficial Targeting: Brands and sales personnel frequently focus on selling to women based on aesthetics—like the number of diamonds or current trends—rather than engaging them in the technical, mechanical, or heritage-worthy aspects of a timepiece.
The “Secondary” Customer: There is a lingering, subtle assumption in many retail environments that women are browsing for gifts or luxury accessories, rather than serious, self-purchasing collectors.
What’s one myth about women collectors that you actively push back against?
“Women Only Buy Smaller, Quartz Watches for Fashion”
The Myth: It is commonly believed that women prefer, or should only wear, small, quartz-powered, or highly embellished “ladies’ watches,” and that these watches are worth less than men’s watches.
The Reality/Pushback: Women are increasingly aware about what type of watches suit their lifestyles and personalities. They are fast developing keen interests in the in mechanical aspects of the timepieces. There is also budding trends of women appreciating independent watchmaking.
No Gender for Horology: We advocate that watches should not bear gender label which commonly give rise to the notion of “male” watch is better than a “female” watch. The appreciation should lie in the movement, design, and history etc.
The “Small is the New Big” Trend: We embrace a trend where “tiny is the new big” while also appreciating larger, historically male-targeted timepieces.
Have you ever changed someone’s perception of women in horology through this platform? Tell us that moment.
Over the last 3 plus years, we were frequently been invited by watch brands, independent watchmakers and microbrands to host female centric get-togethers. This is a prominent shift and a testament that the industry recognises women possesse independent spending capabilities and decision making when it comes to watch acquisitions.
We are most flattered when male collectors feedback that they often recommended their female friends and family to be a part of TickTockBelles community should they are keen to learn more about watch appreciation.
In recent times, we also have male collectors enquiring if they could join our community activities and get-togethers. We are humbled that our advocy has brought about perception shift to more masses and not just confined to a single individual.
What kind of watch conversations excite you the most right now—design, mechanics, or cultural storytelling?
The conversations that excite us most right now are those surrounding cultural storytelling and the broader emotional connection women have with watches. While we appreciate design and mechanics, our primary focus is on shifting the narrative within the watch industry. We are particularly energized by:
Breaking Gender Barriers: We are passionate about inclusivity and to encourage women to pursue watch collecting as a serious hobby and passion.
Community and Connection: We find great excitement in meeting fellow female enthusiasts globally and building a safe space where women can discuss watches at the most basic level. Conversations on how to build authentic engagement and culture within watch community is critical.
Legacy and Personal Narratives: Conversations often center on watches as heirlooms and the “legacy planning” aspect of collecting, where a timepiece’s value is tied to the personal stories it will carry for the next generation.
Which brand or move in the industry recently made you think, “okay, this is progress”?
A move that signals true progress in the watch industry is when brands move beyond gender stereotypes — such as simply adding diamonds or reducing watch case sizes — and instead focus on authentic inclusion and mechanical substance for women. Some key examples and perspectives on progress include:
Gender-Inclusive Marketing: When retailers and brands host female-centric activities, encouraging women to explore watches for their mechanical and artistic value rather than just as accessories.
Mechanical Substance over Aesthetics: When heritage brands invest in both movement and aesthetics for women’s watches, rather than defaulting to quartz movements for the female segment with the excuses that they fit better in smaller watches.
Collaborations and Independent Brands: Our collaboration with the microbrand Awake Concept on the “Cotton Candy” watch—a piece with a hand-mixed lacquer dial that attracted both female and male collectors—represents a move toward gender-neutral appreciation and artistic innovation.
Brands to Watch: Parmigiani Fleurier
What’s one trend in watch culture you think is overrated — or even harmful?
There are two such prominent trends currently – Chasing the hype, and watch as investments which could lead to potential pitfalls:
Financial Loss: Purchasing a watch simply because it is popular especially if they are acquired at premium in secondary markets. If the market shifts South, there may be financial losses.
“Expensive Regret”: If you no longer like the timepiece once the hype dies down, the purchase becomes a regret.
Lack of Personal Affinity: We believe in collecting based on a genuine emotional connection and personal style rather than market trends.
If you had the power to influence one real change across watch brands globally, what would it be?
The one real change we would like to continue to influence is for watch brands to move past the “shrink it and pink it” mentality. Some integrated shifts in how global brands operate could include de-gendering watches, technical inclusion, incorporate form and function as part of brand conversation.
When a young woman discovers watches today, what do you hope her first experience feels like?
We hope for the experience to be inclusive and a discovery of self-expression. TickTockBelles community friends are always eager to help each other to find a timepiece that we have a genuine affinity for. Something that speaks to our hearts, a reminder of a personal story or even to commemorate a milestone in life. We hope she feels empowered to choose unconventional shapes, vintage pieces, or even “men’s” sports models based on what fits her lifestyle and future as a potential heirloom.
The Shift Ahead
If the future of horology is about perspective, not prescription, TickTockBelles is already shaping it. Deborah Wong and Stephanie Soh aren’t just expanding the conversation—they’re making it more thoughtful, more open, and ultimately, more real.
Photo Credits: Deborah Wong & Stephanie Soh
Timepieces: From the private collections of Deborah Wong & Stephanie Soh
The new Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 is one of the most technically fascinating releases from Watches & Wonders 2026 — a Grand Complication that combines astronomical watchmaking with mechanically calculated sunrise and sunset indications.
While most high-complication watches focus on perpetual calendars, tourbillons, or chiming mechanisms, the Celestial collection explores something far rarer: the relationship between time and the cosmos itself.
With its rotating sky chart, sidereal time display, moon phase indication, and newly integrated sunrise and sunset functions, the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 pushes the manufacture deeper into astronomical horology while introducing one of the boldest modern case designs the brand has produced in recent years.
A Different Kind Of Grand Complication
The Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 is not a watch designed around traditional complication hierarchy.
Instead of emphasizing elapsed time, acoustic complications, or calendar programming, the watch visualizes astronomical motion through a continuously rotating celestial display that recreates the visible night sky above Geneva.
At the center of the dial sits a sapphire sky chart displaying the movement of stars and the Milky Way as they appear from Earth. The display rotates according to sidereal time — a system based on Earth’s rotation relative to distant stars rather than solar time.
This is what gives the Celestial collection its unique identity.
It does not simply tell time.
It visualizes the passage of the heavens.
Despite the enormous amount of information displayed, the dial remains surprisingly legible. Patek Philippe avoids clutter by layering indications carefully across rotating discs, peripheral scales, and integrated apertures rather than overwhelming the wearer with traditional sub-dials.
The result feels immersive rather than chaotic.
The New Sunrise And Sunset Complication
What makes the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 especially important within the Grand Complications collection is the addition of sunrise and sunset indications.
Mechanically displaying sunrise and sunset times is considerably more difficult than displaying standard calendar information because those times constantly shift throughout the year based on Earth’s axial tilt and seasonal positioning.
The 6105G-001 calculates those changes mechanically using a dedicated cam-based system calibrated specifically for Geneva’s geographic latitude.
This allows the watch to continuously display changing daylight patterns across the calendar year without requiring electronic assistance.
For collectors of astronomical watches, this represents a significant advancement.
Even more impressive is the way Patek Philippe engineered the adjustment system. Astronomical watches are traditionally difficult to correct because modifying one indication can disrupt the synchronization of others. The Celestial 6105G-001 has been developed to allow time adjustments while maintaining harmony between civil time and astronomical displays.
That engineering discipline is where the watch truly separates itself from many high-complication pieces.
A Bold Modern Case Design
The Celestial 6105G-001 also introduces a noticeably more contemporary aesthetic than many traditional Patek Philippe Grand Complications.
Crafted in white gold and measuring 47mm, the case features an integrated lug structure with engraved detailing along the flanks and a highly architectural profile. It feels more sculptural than classical — a surprising direction for a brand often associated with conservative elegance.
And yet the design works.
Rather than relying on vintage nostalgia, the watch embraces a modern technical identity that complements the complexity of the astronomical display.
The large dimensions are necessary to accommodate the layered sky chart system, but the integrated case construction helps distribute visual weight effectively on the wrist.
This is not a discreet dress complication.
It is a statement piece designed for collectors who appreciate mechanical artistry as much as traditional refinement.
Inside The Caliber 240 C LU CL LCSO
Powering the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 is the self-winding Caliber 240 C LU CL LCSO, an evolved version of the manufacture’s ultra-thin micro-rotor movement architecture.
The movement coordinates multiple astronomical calculations simultaneously, including:
Sidereal time
Rotating sky chart
Lunar orbit
Moon phases
Sunrise indication
Sunset indication
Despite the complexity, the micro-rotor construction allows the movement to remain relatively slim while preserving the elegant proportions expected from a Patek Philippe Grand Complication.
The movement also incorporates the brand’s advanced regulating technologies, including the Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring, helping ensure long-term precision and reliability.
More importantly, the movement demonstrates what Patek Philippe does best: combining extraordinary mechanical complexity with refinement rather than excess.
Nothing about the watch feels unnecessarily theatrical.
Every indication serves a genuine horological purpose.
Why The Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 Matters
Luxury watchmaking in recent years has largely revolved around heritage-inspired designs and incremental updates to established icons.
The Celestial 6105G-001 takes a very different approach.
It is ambitious, unconventional, highly technical, and unapologetically niche.
That is precisely why it stands out.
Rather than revisiting archive references or leaning on nostalgia, Patek Philippe has created a watch that explores new territory within modern astronomical watchmaking while still maintaining the finishing standards and mechanical legitimacy collectors expect from the manufacture.
The watch reminds collectors that innovation in haute horlogerie does not always need to be louder.
Sometimes it simply needs to be smarter.
Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 Specifications
Dial
White gold skeletonized baton-style hands, white varnished.
Case
White gold. Diameter: 47 mm. Thickness: 12.39 mm. Water-resistant to 30m. Solid case back.
Strap
Composite material, black. White gold patented fold-over clasp.
Movement
240 C LU CL LCSO
Self-winding
Celestial
Sunrise and sunset time indications
Summer time/winter time correction
Hours and minutes of mean solar time
Sky chart
Ellipse representing the visible part of the sky for a given latitude
Meridian
Time of meridian passage of Sirius and of the Moon
Angular motion of the Moon
Date by hand
Moon phases
Diameter: 38 mm.
Thickness: 7.93 mm.
Number of parts: 426.
Number of jewels: 51.
Power reserve: min. 38 hours – max. 48 hours.
Winding rotor: 22K gold off-center minirotor.
Balance: Gyromax®.
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations/hour (3 Hz).
Balance spring: Spiromax®.
Distinctive sign: Patek Philippe Seal.
Final Thoughts
The Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G-001 is more than a complicated watch.
It is a mechanical interpretation of astronomical motion — a watch that transforms the changing sky, lunar cycles, and shifting daylight patterns into something wearable through pure mechanical engineering.
That alone makes it remarkable.
But what elevates the watch further is how coherent the entire experience feels. Despite the technical density of the movement and display system, the Celestial remains balanced, refined, and unmistakably Patek Philippe.
In an era where much of luxury watchmaking is driven by familiarity, the 6105G-001 feels refreshingly ambitious.
In August 2024 Frederique Constant unveiled its Classics Moneta Moonphase, a timepiece on which the traditional fluted bezel motif was moved to the flange, giving the case the appearance of a coin – hence the ‘Moneta’ moniker. Now the Geneva-based manufacture has added further style flourishes, giving two of the original models with blue or silver dials a new look that takes them into a whole other aesthetic dimension.
For the first variation, Frederique Constant has opted for a PVD case done out in yellow gold with matching hands and hour markers – a classic prestige livery. For the first time ever, the second timepiece features a Milanese mesh bracelet, beautifully offsetting the steel colour of the case, externals and Moon display at six o’clock and resulting in a more vintage look. Both watches retain the 37-millimetre diameter case and are powered by a quartz movement that makes the Classics Moneta Moonphase that bit more affordable – and desirable.
One of Frederique Constant’s most foundational style principles is timelessness, characterised by a vintage look coupled with discreet modernity – and both new variations of the Classics Moneta Moonphase take the expression of that principle to new heights. Are they vintage, contemporary, urban, Sixties, or Seventies? At the end of the day the answer is very much in the eye of the beholder; the one thing that’s not up for debate is the thoroughly horological nature of the two timepieces.
In the best traditions of fine watchmaking, the dials sport a meticulous sunray finish, softly diffusing light towards the twelve applique hour markers above which hand-polished dauphine hands glide effortlessly. The decision not to include a seconds hand blurs the boundary between quartz and mechanical movements: at first glance, it’s impossible to tell which powers the Classics Moneta Moonphase. The calm, peaceful atmosphere exuded by the dial is further highlighted by the moonphase at six o’clock. Earth’s closest neighbour cycles through its phases in 27 days, 7 hours, 43 minutes and 12 seconds at a rate invisible to the naked eye. Housed in a 37-millimetre case, the restrained and elegant Classics Moneta Moonphase embodies the canons of watchmaking etiquette, be it on men’s or ladies’ wrists.
The style signature of the Classics Moneta Moonphase is its flange, crafted to resemble the edge of a coin. Here, this hallmark of Geneva watchmaking has been moved from its original location on the bezel, instead adding grooved relief to the dial. Frederique Constant’s creativity delights in these clever, sophisticated new takes on convention – giving the brand its very own design ethos in the process.
On the first new variation, the brilliant yellow gold colour adds a further sense of prestige to the piece; the finish is a first for a Classics Moneta Moonphase. The Moon, stars and all the externals (the case, hour markers, hands, and crown) are done out in the same hue, underscoring the philosophy of affordable luxury so dear to Frederique Constant.
The second version offers a steel colour scheme to complement its gold counterpart. Instead of a calfskin strap, the watch sports a Milanese mesh bracelet – another first in the Classics Moneta Moonphase collection. The flexible bracelet fits snugly around the wrist almost like a second skin, giving the piece both a daringly relaxed air and a vintage look; Milanese mesh was all the rage in the 1970s. The steel bracelet beautifully offsets the colour of the applique hour markers and dauphine hands (another icon of vintage watches), as well as the lunar grey of the Moon and stars. The complication is encircled by a thin gold line matching the lettering of the brand’s ‘Frederique Constant, Genève’ signature at twelve o’clock.
In 2025, Patek Philippe introduced a refined addition to its Cubitus collection — the 7128/1R-001 — marrying architectural form with classical horology. With its distinct square-with-softened-edges design and sumptuous rose gold execution, this timepiece commands attention without overstating its presence.
A Design That Speaks Volumes
At first glance, what stands out is the 40 mm diagonal case (corner to corner) sculpted in 18k rose gold. It’s neither oversized nor diminutive — a sweet spot intended to “suit every wrist.” The case surface is treated with alternating vertical satin-brushed and polished finishes, giving depth, subtle contrast, and a tonal tension that keeps the light dancing across its facets.
The corners are softened, and the bracelet integrates seamlessly, blurring the lines between case and strap. The overall silhouette affirms a modern sensibility without abandoning timeless proportions.
Dial & Legibility — Warmth in Brown
The dial is rendered in a sunburst brown hue with a horizontal embossing pattern — itself echoed in the movement’s rotor. Applied rose gold baton hour markers, along with matching hands filled with luminescent material, provide clear legibility even in lower light. A framed date aperture at 3 o’clock provides practicality without overwhelming the visual balance.
Every element is considered, from the consistent motif across surfaces to the proportions between elements — a hallmark of Patek Philippe’s aesthetic discipline.
Movement & Technical Heart
Inside the 7128/1R is the manufacture calibre 26-330 S C — a self-winding movement with sweep seconds, stop-seconds function, and a power reserve of 35 to 45 hours. The movement is just 3.59 mm thick, while the case measures 8.5 mm in overall height.
A signature touch: the rotor is made of 21k gold and decorated with the same horizontal motif that graces the dial — creating a visual link between front and back. And through the sapphire crystal case back, one can admire the movement finishing and architecture — an homage to open craftsmanship.
The movement is built around well-regarded technologies: Gyromax® balance, Spiromax® balance spring, and regulated to 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz).
Bracelet, Comfort & Wearability
The integrated rose gold bracelet shares the same alternation of satin and polished surfaces as the case, continuing the design narrative seamlessly. It closes via a fold-over clasp with a lockable adjustment system, allowing fine tuning of fit.
At just 8.5 mm thick, the overall profile remains slim and comfortable — suitable for daily wear, formal occasions, or even under cuffs.
Practicality & Durability
Though Patek Philippe frames the Cubitus more as a luxury daily than a sports watch, the 7128/1R offers water resistance of 3 bar (≈ 30 m) — enough to withstand casual splashes and everyday exposure. The screw-down crown and robust case construction add security to the design.
The Aesthetic Statement & Market Position
With its warm rose gold exterior and brown dial, the 7128/1R taps into a rich, autumnal palette well suited to both business and evening wear. Its geometric lines and crafted finishes position it as a design statement rather than a mere functional tool.
Final Thoughts
The Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1R-001 is a watch that quietly asserts itself. It is neither overtly sporty nor classically dressy — it lives in a comfortable middle ground, with design ambition and technical integrity married elegantly. For those who appreciate geometry, gold tones, and high watchmaking, it could stand as a signature piece that doesn’t scream but commands respect.
For the first time in its 288-year history, Favre Leuba introduces a fully skeletonized timepiece: the Chief Skeleton.
This striking model showcases the brand’s signature cushion-shaped case and a meticulously open worked manufacture movement, developed in collaboration with AMT.
Building on the momentum of the brand’s first-ever tourbillon – the Chief Tourbillon – presented earlier this year, the Chief Skeleton marks another major step in Favre Leuba’s ongoing journey.
The Chief Skeleton is offered in two variations: a gold-finished movement paired with a brushed and polished case, and an anthracite-finished movement housed in a DLC-coated black steel case.
“2025 is about maintaining the momentum and continuing to build on Favre Leuba’s pioneering legacy,” says Patrik Hoffmann, Chairman of Favre Leuba. “We introduce some of the most technically intricate and visually striking timepieces in our history. After our first-ever tourbillon presented earlier this year, we show a natural progression today with the Chief Skeleton, our first skeletonized model, inspired by the original Chief case design of the 1970s. These creations honor our heritage while marking significant milestones in our long history as one of the oldest watchmakers.”
A Modern Take on the Classic Skeleton
The Chief Skeleton retains the iconic cushion-shaped case of the Chief Collection, now given a presence all its own with the fully skeletonized movement it houses. Every component and aspect – bridge, gear, and aperture – is precisely crafted to ensure both architectural balance and visual elegance.
With its combination of brushed and polished finishes, the 40mm case creates a dynamic play of light, shadow, and texture. This mesmerizing effect is further enhanced by the curved sapphire crystal, where the anti-reflective coating improves visibility, providing a clear view of the openworked movement from every angle.
Revealing Favre Leuba’s First Skeleton Movement
The custom-designed skeleton movement—finished in gold or anthracite—juxtaposes different textures, each contributing a distinct visual element. Snailing, a technique where a rotating tool creates a spiral pattern, adds a refined circular texture that enhances the movement’s depth and elegance. This intricate finish, along with satin and sandblasted surfaces, creates a dramatic visual display, drawing the eye to explore the openworked movement.
The multi-layered movement architecture includes a semi-exposed mainspring barrel at 12 o’clock and a balance wheel at 6 o’clock. The balance wheel bridge, with its horizontal brushing, is an exclusive Favre Leuba design that underscores the brand’s commitment to exceptional craftsmanship.
Operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the movement provides a 41-hour power reserve. The skeletonized rotor features a satin finish and an engraved Favre Leuba wordmark. In the anthracite version, the rotor is coated with a matching black chrome (DLC) finish, creating a seamless visual connection with the case.
The open worked design not only reduces weight but also enhances the visibility of the movement, emphasizing the transparency of the watch’s mechanics.
Variants and Versatility
The Chief Skeleton is available in two configurations:
Steel case withgold-finished movement – featuring either a green, blue, or black minute track, matched with a corresponding FKM rubber strap.
Black DLC case with anthracite-finished movement – featuring either a green, blue, black, or ice blue minute track, matched with a corresponding FKM rubber strap.
An integrated quick-change mechanism ensures effortless transitions between strap and bracelet, enhancing the watch’s versatility and adaptability to any occasion.
With the Chief Skeleton, Favre Leuba redefines the art of skeletonization, presenting a timepiece that seamlessly merges bold design with masterful craftsmanship. This launch marks a defining moment in the brand’s rich history, taking a bold step forward in its commitment to horological excellence.
When one of Switzerland’s most innovative watchmakers decides to capture the soul of New York City, the result is nothing short of spectacular. Enter the Hublot Big Bang MECA-10 Concrete Jungle — a limited edition timepiece that marries raw urban edge with fine horological engineering. More than just a watch, it’s an audacious statement piece that blends art, industry, and identity in one unmistakable package.
A Watch Born from the Streets of NYC
New York City is many things: a melting pot of cultures, a temple of fashion, a financial powerhouse, and above all, a place that never stops moving. The Concrete Jungle nickname was born from the city’s towering skyscrapers and steel veins of subway lines. With this limited edition, Hublot doesn’t merely pay homage to New York’s energy — it captures and encapsulates it in wearable form.
The bezel, crafted from actual concrete, is a world first for luxury watchmaking. Hublot microblasted and reinforced the concrete to ensure durability without compromising on weight or comfort. The result? A texture and aesthetic unlike anything else on the market — bold, grainy, and authentically urban.
This material choice isn’t just cosmetic. It serves as a tactile reminder of the city’s unyielding character. Every detail of the Big Bang MECA-10 Concrete Jungle evokes the architectural DNA of New York — from its industrial look to its robust, no-nonsense build.
The Engine: MECA-10 Manual-Winding Movement
At the heart of this creation is Hublot’s in-house HUB1201 MECA-10 manual-winding skeleton movement — a technical masterpiece known for its power and performance. Launched in 2016, the MECA-10 was celebrated for redefining traditional mechanical watchmaking by offering a power reserve of 10 full days, a rare feat in modern horology.
The movement features a highly architectural design, visible through both the front and back of the watch. Its dual parallel barrel system provides not only extended autonomy but also a sense of mechanical drama. The power reserve indicator, located at 6 o’clock, uses a rack-and-pinion system reminiscent of industrial machinery.
Each component is a lesson in form and function. The skeleton dial allows for an immersive view into the mechanics, with bridges and gears laid out like a city grid. It’s not just a watch — it’s a skyline on your wrist.
Materials That Redefine Luxury
Hublot has always been a pioneer in using unconventional materials, and the Big Bang MECA-10 Concrete Jungle continues this legacy under the brand’s “Art of Fusion” philosophy. The materials chosen are not only innovative but meaningful:
Concrete Bezel: An industry first, it encapsulates NYC’s toughness and creativity.
Black Ceramic Case (45mm): Lightweight, durable, and scratch-resistant. Its matte finish complements the rawness of the concrete bezel.
Interchangeable Straps: Grey fabric strap with velcro fastner and a Black Rubber Strap
The combination of these materials results in a watch that is rugged yet refined, industrial yet luxurious. It’s designed for those who are not afraid to push boundaries — in style, in life, and in their choice of timepiece.
Exclusivity Etched in Stone — and Steel
Only 10 pieces of the Big Bang MECA-10 Concrete Jungle exist in the world. This ultra-limited release solidifies its status as not just a collector’s item but a wearable piece of art. Each watch is individually numbered and features an engraved caseback that reads “CONCRETE JUNGLE” — a tribute to the city that inspired it.
In a world of mass production, this level of exclusivity is rare and refreshing. It creates a sense of connection between the wearer and the watch. Owning one isn’t just about luxury; it’s about being part of a story that bridges continents, cultures, and crafts.
NYC Meets Swiss Craft: The Cultural Fusion
Why New York? Because the city represents much of what Hublot stands for: innovation, dynamism, bold aesthetics, and constant reinvention. It is a global capital that blends heritage with hustle — just like Hublot, which fuses traditional Swiss watchmaking with modern design and unexpected materials.
This cultural intersection makes the Big Bang MECA-10 Concrete Jungle a wearable ambassador of two worlds. It’s a Swiss engine wrapped in NYC attitude. It’s where haute horlogerie meets hip-hop culture, art deco meets street art, and legacy meets modernity.
Designed for the Urban Connoisseur
The ideal wearer of the Concrete Jungle is someone who sees time not as a constraint, but as a canvas. They are collectors, yes, but also creators. People who live and move to their own rhythm. Whether it’s a Wall Street disruptor or a Brooklyn-based designer, this watch is made for individuals who thrive in cities that never sleep.
This timepiece is as much a fashion statement as it is a feat of engineering. Paired with streetwear or worn with tailored suits, it transcends traditional luxury watch categories. It speaks to a new generation of buyers who value rarity, story, and edge over heritage alone.
Final Thoughts: Time Told with Swagger
The Hublot Big Bang MECA-10 Concrete Jungle is not for the faint of wrist. It’s for those who see time not just as a measurement, but as a medium for expression — rugged, rare, and radically different. From its groundbreaking materials to its powerful movement and cultural symbolism, this watch defines what it means to be bold in 2025.
For Hublot, it represents yet another leap forward in watchmaking innovation. For collectors and connoisseurs, it’s an opportunity to own a piece of New York — not the postcard version, but the real, unfiltered, unstoppable city. A concrete jungle, cast in steel and driven by gears.
