In a world where luxury watches often compete through complex complications and increasingly elaborate dials, the ELKA x Ace “Essence” MD09 takes the opposite approach. It strips away everything that isn’t essential, proving that true elegance often lies in restraint. Inspired by ELKA Watch Co.’s philosophy of “Form Follows Feeling,” the MD09 is a watch designed to be experienced rather than simply read.
A Collaboration Rooted in Minimalism
Created in collaboration with Ace Jewelers, the Serie D “The 36” Essence is a celebration of pure design. Limited to just 50 pieces worldwide, the watch removes traditional hour markers and numerals, allowing the dial itself to become the focal point. Instead of measuring time with visual precision, the MD09 invites the wearer to appreciate time through emotion and simplicity.
The Beauty of an Uninterrupted Blue Dial
The first thing that captures your attention is the stunning sunray blue dial.
Free from indices and numerals, the uninterrupted surface allows light to move effortlessly across the dial, creating changing shades of deep navy and electric blue depending on the viewing angle. The absence of visual clutter gives the watch a calming, almost meditative presence that is increasingly rare in modern watchmaking.
Designed to Feel Natural
Housed in ELKA’s signature 36mm pebble-shaped case, the MD09 reflects the brand’s focus on comfort and organic design. Its smooth contours recall vintage pocket watches, while the compact proportions make it equally suited to both contemporary and classic wrists.
Completing the design is ELKA’s distinctive Chevé-box sapphire crystal, whose generous curvature evokes the charm of vintage acrylic crystals while delivering the scratch resistance expected from modern sapphire.
Less Design. More Emotion.
The MD09 isn’t about displaying technical complexity. It’s about creating an emotional connection with the wearer.
By removing every unnecessary element, ELKA allows the dial, proportions and light to become the watch’s defining features. It’s a reminder that sometimes the most memorable designs are those confident enough to leave space for simplicity.
EyesOnTime’s Take
The ELKA x Ace “Essence” MD09 Blue Minimalist is a refreshing reminder that minimalism doesn’t have to feel empty. Every design choice has a purpose, from the uninterrupted blue dial to the perfectly balanced 36mm case.
For collectors who appreciate independent watchmaking, understated elegance and thoughtful design, the MD09 offers something increasingly rare in today’s market: a watch that whispers instead of shouting.
Luxury watchmaking often celebrates either technical innovation or artistic beauty. With the new ZENITH DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II, the Swiss manufacture proves that the two can coexist beautifully.
Limited to just 25 pieces worldwide, this latest edition of the DEFY Extreme brings together one of the most advanced mechanical chronograph movements in production with one of nature’s most captivating gemstones. The result is a watch that feels equally at home in a collector’s showcase or on the wrist of someone who appreciates cutting-edge engineering.
A Study in Contrasts
At first glance, the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II is impossible to ignore.
Its bold 45mm case combines forged carbon with titanium, creating a lightweight yet incredibly robust construction. Unlike polished metals that reflect light, the matte texture of forged carbon absorbs it, giving the watch a stealth-like presence that perfectly suits the aggressive architecture of the DEFY collection.
Against this dark backdrop, the lapis lazuli chronograph counters become the undeniable focal point.
Every slice of lapis lazuli is naturally unique, with tiny pyrite inclusions shimmering like stars across a deep blue sky. No two watches will ever display exactly the same pattern, making each piece subtly individual.
Powered by the Legendary El Primero 9004
Beneath the openworked dial sits one of ZENITH’s most impressive achievements: the El Primero 9004.
The movement features two completely independent escapements, each designed for a specific purpose.
One escapement beats at 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour) to keep precise time, while the second operates at an extraordinary 50 Hz (360,000 vibrations per hour) exclusively for the chronograph.
This innovative architecture enables the central chronograph hand to complete one full rotation every second, allowing elapsed time to be measured with remarkable precision to 1/100th of a second.
It’s a mechanical spectacle that remains one of the defining features of the DEFY Extreme collection.
Built for Performance, Designed for Everyday Wear
While the movement is undeniably technical, the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II has also been designed with versatility in mind.
The watch is supplied with a black rubber strap featuring a folding clasp, alongside a black high-performance Velcro strap. Thanks to ZENITH’s integrated quick-change strap system, switching between the two requires no tools, making it easy to adapt the watch for different occasions.
The carbon and titanium construction also keeps the substantial 45mm case surprisingly lightweight, while its 20 ATM water resistance ensures it’s ready for active everyday use.
A Collector’s Edition
The DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II isn’t simply another colour variation.
By pairing forged carbon, titanium and natural lapis lazuli with one of the world’s most technically advanced mechanical chronographs, ZENITH has created a watch that celebrates both innovation and individuality.
With only 25 examples available worldwide, this is a timepiece destined for collectors who appreciate rare materials, exceptional engineering and distinctive design.
Technical Specifications
Reference: 10.9102.9004/51.I200
Limited Edition: 25 pieces
Case: 45mm Carbon & Titanium
Movement: El Primero 9004
Chronograph Accuracy: 1/100th of a second
Frequency: 5 Hz timekeeping / 50 Hz chronograph
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Water Resistance: 20 ATM
Dial: Openworked with natural lapis lazuli counters
Straps: Black rubber strap and black Velcro strap with interchangeable system
Final Thoughts
The DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II demonstrates that modern watchmaking isn’t only about improving performance. It’s also about creating emotion through materials, craftsmanship and thoughtful design.
Its forged carbon case speaks to contemporary engineering, while the natural beauty of lapis lazuli adds warmth and individuality. Combined with the remarkable El Primero 9004 movement capable of measuring time to 1/100th of a second, this limited edition showcases exactly what makes ZENITH one of the industry’s most innovative watchmakers.
For collectors seeking something that blends mechanical excellence with unmistakable character, the DEFY Extreme Lapis Lazuli II stands out as one of the most compelling releases of the year.
With the Delphis Art Deco, Chronoswiss presents a bold reinterpretation of one of its most iconic complications. Inspired by the design language of the Roaring Twenties, this new edition pays tribute to an era defined by artistic freedom, architectural clarity, and a fascination with modern progress.
The Art Deco movement that flourished during the 1920s reshaped the visual culture of its time. From architecture and graphic design to fashion and industrial objects, it introduced a new aesthetic built on geometry, symmetry, and refined contrasts. It was a period where craftsmanship met innovation, and where decorative arts embraced modernity without abandoning tradition.
These values resonate deeply with the philosophy of Chronoswiss today.
With the Delphis Art Deco, the brand translates this spirit into a contemporary mechanical sculpture for the wrist.
A Dial inspired by Art Deco Geometry
At the center of the Delphis Art Deco lies a dial that reflects the architectural elegance of the Art Deco era.
The main dial surface is nickel-coated and laser-structured, creating a subtle three- dimensional texture that plays with light and shadow. Its refined grey tone evokes the metallic elegance and restrained color palettes characteristic of Art Deco design.
Hovering above this surface is the distinctive Delphis display. At 12 o’clock, the jumping hour advances instantly at the top of each hour. At the center, the retrograde minute hand sweeps across the curved scale before snapping back to its starting position. At the lower part of the dial, the small seconds rotate continuously.
For the small seconds, Chronoswiss introduces a baby-blue azur tone, achieved through a unique lacquer on a hand-guilloché base. The intricate guilloché pattern is engraved in- house at the Atelier Lucerne using century-old machines, creating a dynamic texture beneath the Art Deco-inspired white typography.
The gold-plated minute ring adds a warm contrast to the cool grey dial and reinforces the geometric clarity that defines the entire composition.
Modern Presence – Crafted in Lucerne
The 42 mm case of the Delphis Art Deco is crafted from Grade 5 titanium and finished in a matte grey tone. Lightweight yet exceptionally durable, the material lends the watch a modern architectural presence while ensuring comfort on the wrist.
Paired with a black nubuck strap, the piece balances the bold mechanical architecture of the Delphis complication with a refined contemporary aesthetic.
Powering the Delphis Art Deco is the Chronoswiss Manufacture Caliber C.6004, developed together with La Joux-Perret. The automatic movement offers a 55-hour power reserve and is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Inside, traditional finishing techniques meet modern engineering, reflecting the same philosophy that defines the watch itself: heritage craftsmanship expressed through contemporary watchmaking.
A new chapter for an Icon
The Delphis has long been one of the most recognizable complications within the Chronoswiss universe and has remained an icon since its introduction in 1996.
With the Delphis Art Deco, Chronoswiss revisits this emblematic complication through the lens of one of history’s most influential design movements.
A mechanical tribute to the Roaring Twenties – reimagined for the collectors of today.
• Complication: Jumping Hour, Retrograde Minute, Analogue Seconds • Dial: Small Seconds Hand Guilloché
• Movement: Manufacture Caliber C.6004, automatic
• Water Resistance: 10 ATM
Technical Data
Model: Delphis Art Deco, limited to 150 pieces
Reference: CH-1423TM.1-GRGO Titanium Grade 5
Displays: Digital hour at 12 o’clock, retrograde & central minute, analog second at 6 o’clock
Case: Solid 17-piece Titanium Grade 5 case with matte finish, cut and polished, polished bezel with side fluted decorative ring and cambered, double anti-reflective sapphire crystal; screwed and satin- finished case back with sapphire crystal, onion crown, water-resistant to 10 bar, screw-down straps with patented autobloc system
Measurements: Ø 42 mm, height 14.4 mm
Movement: Chronoswiss manufacture caliber C. 6004, automatic
Diameter: Ø33mm
Jewels: 37
Balance: Glucydur, three-legged
Balance spring: Nivarox 1
Fine Adjustment: Via Excenter
Shock protection: Incabloc
Frequency: 4 Hz., 28‘800 A/h (semi-oscillations)
Power reserve: Approx. 55 hours
Special features: Skeletonized rotor made of tungsten, ball bearing; armature, escape wheel and screws polished; bridge with Geneva cut, ruthenium plated
Dial: 3-dimensional construction, upper level lasered with nickel-coating/ digital hour display. Central retrograde minute, analog second at 6 o’clock with hand Guilloché lacquer blue, Minute Ring gold plated.
Hands: Pointer shape “Viking”, aluminium / satinated / blue PVD-coating
Two pillars of Swiss excellence, ZENITH and USM Modular Furniture, have come together to launch an exclusive watch collection that fuses horological mastery with architectural ingenuity.
This collaboration pays tribute to the groundbreaking spirit of the 1960s — the decade that saw the creation of the USM Haller modular system (1965) and the debut of ZENITH’s revolutionary El Primero chronograph (1969). Reimagining what might have happened had their creative paths crossed at that pivotal moment, ZENITH and USM present a bold reinterpretation of the original ZENITH DEFY, now introduced as a chronograph. The result reflects their shared values: Swiss precision, purposeful aesthetics, and a vision of modernity that transcends time. Accompanied by a custom-designed USM Haller timepiece chest created specifically for this edition, the timepiece reflects a mutual elevation of watchmaking and modular design, a thoughtful interplay where each enhances the other. Together, they form a cohesive whole where design and precision meet: this timepiece embodies a seamless blend of form and function. More than a collaboration, it is a statement of enduring craftsmanship and forward-thinking vision. Conceived to resonate not only with collectors and aficionados of fine watchmaking, but also with designers, architects, and art enthusiasts, this capsule edition pays tribute to creative minds and visionaries across disciplines.
To bring this original collaboration to life, ZENITH and USM delved into the bold spirit of the 1960s — a transformative era that redefined form and function, and a pivotal moment in the histories of both brands. Asking themselves, “What might these two icons of Swiss craftsmanship have created together back then?”, they set out to design something entirely new, a timepiece that never was, yet one that seamlessly channels the aesthetic and cultural codes of the era.
The 1969 ZENITH DEFY served as the natural starting point for this creative fusion. With its sharply angular case and faceted contours, the DEFY’s bold, octagonal silhouette and fourteen-sided bezel echo the signature design language of USM — celebrating clarity, structure, and strength. The result is a striking interplay of geometry and surface, where each finish reflects the shared values of both houses.
Though the original DEFY was offered in multiple iterations and laid the foundation for today’s DEFY collection, it was never produced as a chronograph.
The new DEFY Chronograph USM is, in essence, a piece of “imagined heritage” — an answer to the question: What if the 1969 DEFY had been equipped with the groundbreaking El Primero, the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph? And further still, what if it had drawn subtle inspiration from another design icon of the same era, the USM Haller system?
Patented in 1965, the USM Haller modular furniture system has become a cult symbol of enduring modernity. Defined by its chrome-plated steel tubes, connector ball joints, and coloured metal panels, it remains a masterpiece of clarity, versatility, and industrial elegance. Decades later, its capacity to evolve and inspire creative expression remains unmatched, a perfect counterpart to ZENITH’s own legacy of precision and innovation.
The DEFY Chronograph USM is housed in a compact 37.3 mm stainless steel case that stays true to the bold geometry of the original DEFY. Its octagonal shape is accentuated by a 14-sided bezel, while pump-style chronograph pushers enhance its vintage-inspired silhouette. The watch is paired with the iconic “ladder” bracelet, originally designed in 1969 by the renowned Gay Frères company exclusively for ZENITH. Water resistance is rated at 10 ATM, ensuring robustness to match its design integrity.
The dial is marked by applied square hour markers with horizontal grooves, reinforcing the watch’s architectural character. Available in four vibrant USM signature colours – USM Green, USM Pure Orange, USM Golden Yellow, and USM Gentian Blue – each variation pays homage to the modular aesthetic of the USM Haller system. The three overlapping chronograph counters are rendered in silver with a fine concentric circular finish, adding both texture and depth, a subtle nod to the iconic USM handle through their rhodium-plated azuré pattern.
A subtle yet playful detail: the chronograph second hand is tipped with a miniature USM Haller ball joint, filled with SuperLuminova for visibility in low light. When the chronograph is activated, it reveals the ZENITH star cleverly hidden beneath, a nod to the intricate storytelling woven into the piece. Each dial colour is produced in a limited edition of 60 pieces.
At the heart of the DEFY Chronograph USM is the legendary El Primero 400 calibre, built upon the legacy of the iconic El Primero 3019 PHC, the world’s first automatic high-frequency chronograph introduced by ZENITH in 1969. Over 55 years later, this movement continues to set the standard in precision chronometry with its 5Hz high-frequency escapement, automatic winding, and column-wheel chronograph architecture. It powers central hour and minute hands, small seconds at 9 o’clock, chronograph functions, and a date window at 4:30.
Visible through the transparent sapphire case-back, the movement’s rotor is adorned with an openworked ZENITH star motif, flanked by the ZENITH El Primero and USM logos, a refined detail that speaks to the harmony between horological and architectural precision.
Each watch is available individually or as a set, and each option includes exclusive USM Modular furniture and a unique watch box. The DEFY Chronograph is available exclusively from ZENITH’s physical, online boutiques and through authorized retailers worldwide.
A tribute to timeless design
Benoit de Clerck, CEO of ZENITH:“This partnership unites the excellence of Swiss design and horology, embodying a mutual appreciation for enduring, modern aesthetics. The modular design of USM Haller, celebrated for its functional beauty, resonates with our own dedication to craftsmanship in watchmaking.”
Alexander Schärer, CEO & President of the Board:“Both USM Modular Furniture and ZENITH were founded as owner-driven workshops integrated in a microcosm of Swiss craftsmanship — a shared origin that has naturally guided us toward partnership. ZENITH is a company that not only mirrors our heritage, but also embodies values profoundly aligned with our own. Though our products, industries, and even our clientele may appear distinct at first glance, they are ultimately bound by a shared devotion to timeless quality, refined aesthetics, and purposeful functionality.”
Key points: Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph movement. Silicon escape-wheel and lever. Screwed-in crown. Limited edition of 60 pieces. Movement: El Primero 400 Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz) Power reserve: 55 hours Functions: Functions: Hours and minutes in the center, small seconds at 9 o’clock Chronograph: – Central chronograph hand – 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock – 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock Date indication at 4:30 Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” motif and bearing Zenith & USM Logo Price: 10’900 CHF Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 10 ATM Case: 37 mm Dial: USM Gentian Blue Hour markers: Rhodium-plated Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel “ladder” bracelet
Key points: Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph movement. Silicon escape-wheel and lever. Screwed-in crown. Limited edition of 60 pieces. Movement: El Primero 400 Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz) Power reserve: 55 hours Functions: Hours and minutes in the center, small seconds at 9 o’clock Chronograph: – Central chronograph hand – 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock – 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock Date indication at 4:30 Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” motif and bearing Zenith & USM Logo Price: 10’900 CHF Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 10 ATM Case: 37 mm Dial: USM Golden Yellow Hour markers: Rhodium-plated Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel “ladder” bracelet
Key points: Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph movement. Silicon escape-wheel and lever. Screwed-in crown. Limited edition of 60 pieces. Movement: El Primero 400 Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz) Power reserve: 55 hours Functions: Hours and minutes in the center, small seconds at 9 o’clock Chronograph: – Central chronograph hand – 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock – 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock Date indication at 4:30 Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” motif and bearing Zenith & USM Logo Price: 10’900 CHF Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 10 ATM Case: 37 mm Dial: USM green Hour markers: Rhodium-plated Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel “ladder” bracelet
Key points: Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph movement. Silicon escape-wheel and lever. Screwed-in crown. Limited edition of 60 pieces. Movement: El Primero 400 Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz) Power reserve: 55 hours Functions: Hours and minutes in the center, small seconds at 9 o’clock Chronograph: – Central chronograph hand – 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock – 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock Date indication at 4:30 Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” motif and bearing Zenith & USM Logo Price: 10’900 CHF Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 10 ATM Case: 37 mm Dial: USM Pure Orange Hour markers: Rhodium-plated Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel “ladder” bracelet