Thirty years after its founding, independent Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled one of its most ambitious and meaningful creations to date. The new Carillon Tourbillon is far more than an anniversary watch. It is a celebration of the Maison’s philosophy of restoration, transmission, and mechanical excellence, expressed through a remarkable combination of a four-gong minute repeater and a tourbillon.
Created to mark Parmigiani Fleurier’s 30th anniversary, this exceptional haute horlogerie timepiece is limited to just five examples worldwide. Entirely conceived, developed, assembled and finished within the Manufacture, the Carillon Tourbillon stands as a testament to the independent Swiss watch brand’s dedication to preserving traditional craftsmanship while advancing contemporary watchmaking.
A Legacy Rooted in Restoration
Few modern watchmakers can claim a foundation as unique as that of Parmigiani Fleurier. Before establishing the Maison in 1996, Michel Parmigiani built his reputation as one of Switzerland’s foremost restorers of historic timepieces, automata, clocks and mechanical masterpieces.
His approach to restoration was never driven by nostalgia. Instead, it was a process of understanding. Through decades of studying historical mechanisms, Michel Parmigiani developed a profound appreciation for the intelligence, architecture and artistry hidden within traditional watchmaking.
The Carillon Tourbillon is a direct reflection of this philosophy.
Its origins can be traced to an early nineteenth-century pocket watch created by Perrin Frères and preserved within the renowned Sandoz Collection. Restored by Parmigiani Fleurier in 2000, the historic timepiece became a source of inspiration for the Maison’s latest creation. Rather than replicating its design, Parmigiani Fleurier sought to reinterpret its acoustic architecture, mechanical ingenuity and distinctive serpentine gongs within a contemporary luxury watch.
The Art of Sounding Time
At the heart of the Parmigiani Fleurier Carillon Tourbillon lies one of watchmaking’s most revered complications: the minute repeater.
Historically, the carillon tradition originated in bell towers, where the sound of bells marked the passage of time for entire communities. The Carillon Tourbillon transforms that public experience into something deeply personal, allowing time to be heard on demand through an intricate mechanical symphony worn on the wrist.
Unlike conventional minute repeater watches that utilise two gongs, the Carillon Tourbillon employs an advanced four-gong system.
The chiming sequence consists of:
One low-pitched gong for the hours
One high-pitched gong for the minutes
Two additional gongs dedicated to the quarter hours
Together, these four gongs create a rich and distinctive four-note melody that gives the watch its unique acoustic signature.
The striking mechanism is regulated by an integrated flywheel governor that ensures a smooth and perfectly controlled cadence throughout the chiming sequence. This guarantees a fluid acoustic performance free from acceleration or slowing, preserving the purity of every note.
A Contemporary Haute Horlogerie Statement
While inspired by historical horology, the Carillon Tourbillon is unmistakably modern in its execution.
The 41.6mm case is crafted from 18-carat white gold and features vertical gadroons inspired by classical architecture, a recurring design element deeply associated with Michel Parmigiani’s aesthetic vision.
A sapphire crystal box construction allows an unobstructed view of the dial-side mechanics, including the visible hammers responsible for striking the gongs. Their presence transforms the watch into a dynamic performance, revealing the exact moment when mechanical energy is converted into sound.
One of the watch’s most distinctive visual features is its four serpentine gongs, which elegantly wrap around the dial. Inspired directly by the Perrin Frères pocket watch, these flowing curves create a powerful visual identity while simultaneously serving an essential acoustic function.
In the Carillon Tourbillon, acoustics become design.
The Beauty of Morning Blue
The dial itself represents another showcase of Parmigiani Fleurier’s artisanal expertise.
Crafted from 18-carat white gold, the dial features a hand-hammered finish and is presented in a subtle Morning Blue hue that shifts between silver and azure depending on the light.
The textured surface reflects the Maison’s belief in the value of the human hand. No two surfaces are exactly alike, ensuring each watch possesses its own individual character.
This hand-hammered finish continues the design language introduced through Parmigiani Fleurier’s recent anniversary creations and reinforces the Maison’s commitment to traditional craftsmanship.
Calibre PF950: A High-Complication Masterpiece
Powering the watch is the manually wound Calibre PF950, an extraordinary manufacture movement designed specifically for the Carillon Tourbillon.
Comprising 456 components and 42 jewels, the movement integrates a minute repeater, a four-gong carillon striking mechanism and a 60-second tourbillon within a remarkably refined architecture.
The calibre operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz) and delivers a power reserve of at least ten days, an impressive achievement for a high-complication watch featuring a chiming mechanism.
To achieve this performance, Parmigiani Fleurier developed a sophisticated three-barrel system.
Two superimposed barrels provide power to the movement, while a dedicated third barrel is reserved exclusively for the striking mechanism. This third barrel is automatically rewound each time the repeater slide is activated, ensuring optimal energy delivery whenever the chiming function is engaged.
Among modern haute horlogerie creations, combining a tourbillon and a minute repeater within a movement offering such extended autonomy remains a significant technical achievement.
Hidden Complexity and Refined Finishing
In keeping with Parmigiani Fleurier’s philosophy of restrained elegance, much of the watch’s complexity remains discreetly hidden from immediate view.
The tourbillon and power reserve indicator are positioned on the reverse side of the watch, preserving the balance and clarity of the dial while rewarding closer inspection.
The movement itself serves as a canvas for exceptional hand-finishing. Its components are decorated with the Maison’s distinctive mezzo vibrato engraving, a technique previously explored on the Armoriale Objet d’Art collection.
Executed entirely by hand, the decoration creates a visual rhythm across the movement’s surfaces, echoing the acoustic resonance generated by the chiming mechanism.
The calibre’s bridges and components are further enhanced through hand-bevelling and hand-graining, underscoring the artisanal nature of the piece.
A Case Designed for Resonance
In a minute repeater watch, the case plays a crucial role in shaping the quality of sound.
Parmigiani Fleurier selected white gold not only for its luxurious appearance but also for its controlled acoustic properties. The material contributes to the transmission, clarity and resonance of the chiming sequence, ensuring harmony between the movement and its surrounding architecture.
Integrated into the case band is the repeater slide, which activates the chiming mechanism through a deliberate and tactile gesture. The interaction creates a ceremonial connection between wearer and watch, reinforcing the emotional dimension of mechanical horology.
Why the Parmigiani Fleurier Carillon Tourbillon Matters to Collectors
For collectors of independent haute horlogerie, the Carillon Tourbillon represents far more than a limited-edition luxury watch.
It embodies everything that has defined Parmigiani Fleurier over the past three decades: restoration as a source of innovation, craftsmanship as a form of cultural transmission, and mechanical complexity pursued in the service of beauty rather than spectacle.
With only five examples produced, the Carillon Tourbillon is among the rarest watches ever created by the Manufacture. Its exclusivity is not driven by marketing, but by the extraordinary level of expertise, hand-finishing and acoustic tuning required to bring each piece to life.
Thirty Years of Independent Watchmaking Excellence
The Carillon Tourbillon serves as a fitting tribute to Parmigiani Fleurier’s first thirty years.
Combining a four-gong minute repeater, a tourbillon, a hand-hammered Morning Blue dial and a movement engineered for exceptional acoustic performance, it captures the essence of the Maison’s identity.
More importantly, it demonstrates that true innovation in Swiss watchmaking does not require abandoning tradition. Instead, the Carillon Tourbillon proves that the most compelling creations emerge when history, craftsmanship and contemporary engineering work in harmony.
For Parmigiani Fleurier, the sound of thirty years is not merely heard. It resonates.
Technical Specifications
Parmigiani Fleurier Carillon Tourbillon White Gold Anniversaire
There are watches that impress immediately, and then there are watches that become more interesting the longer you look at them. The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date falls into the second category.
At first glance, the watch is visually striking because of the openworked dial and the large tourbillon at 6 o’clock. But after a few moments, the smaller details start standing out — the way the date hand jumps over the tourbillon opening, the depth created by the different layers of the movement, and how restrained the overall design still feels despite everything happening on the dial.
That balance is probably what Jaeger-LeCoultre does best.
The Dial Feels Thought Through
Skeletonised watches can sometimes feel overly technical or difficult to read. That is not the case here.
The dial has enough openness to showcase the mechanics while still maintaining structure and clarity. Crafted from 18K pink gold (750/1000), it features a richly detailed barleycorn guilloché pattern beneath deep blue translucent enamel, adding depth and texture without feeling distracting. The warm tones of the pink gold case further soften the watch’s highly technical appearance, giving it a more refined and approachable character.
The tourbillon naturally becomes the focal point, but it does not dominate the entire watch. Your eyes continue moving across the dial because there are layers everywhere — polished bridges, sharp finishing, open spaces, and different depths that change depending on the light.
Nothing looks decorative for the sake of it. Everything feels placed carefully.
The Jumping Date Is the Best Part
The most satisfying detail on this watch is easily the date display.
Instead of letting the pointer date hand cut across the tourbillon opening, Jaeger-LeCoultre engineered it to jump over the lower section of the dial. When the hand reaches the tourbillon aperture, it instantly advances to the other side.
It is a small mechanical decision, but it changes the experience of the watch completely.
The dial stays cleaner, the tourbillon remains fully visible, and the date complication suddenly becomes something interactive rather than something you ignore. It adds character without trying too hard to do so.
This is the kind of feature that collectors tend to appreciate more over time.
Complicated Without Feeling Heavy
A lot of high-complication watches try to show everything at once. This one does not.
The 24-hour display at 12 o’clock is subtle and useful, especially since it can work as a second time zone indication. The dauphine hands remain clean and easy to read, and the proportions of the case help keep the watch elegant on the wrist.
Even at 42mm, it avoids feeling oversized because the case design is relatively slim and curved.
Most importantly, the watch still feels wearable. That matters because some complicated pieces end up feeling more like demonstrations than actual watches someone would enjoy spending time with.
Calibre 978 Still Holds Up
Inside is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Calibre 978, a movement that has already earned a strong reputation over the years.
What makes this version interesting is how much attention has gone into its presentation. The openworked layout allows you to see far more of the movement architecture, and the finishing is visible from nearly every angle.
You notice the polished edges first, then the brushing, the Geneva stripes, and the way light reflects differently across the bridges. It feels properly handcrafted.
There is also restraint in the finishing. Jaeger-LeCoultre has not overdesigned the movement to make it look aggressive or futuristic. It still feels classic, which suits the Master Grande Tradition collection perfectly.
One of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Strongest Recent Releases
The Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date works because it focuses on execution instead of excess.
The complications make sense, the movement feels cohesive with the design, and the watch avoids becoming visually overwhelming even though there is a lot happening mechanically.
It is also the kind of watch that becomes more enjoyable over time because the appeal is in the details rather than one dramatic feature.
That is probably why this feels like one of the more complete releases from Watches and Wonders 2026 — not because it is the loudest watch in the room, but because every part of it feels considered.
Technicals Specifications
Calibre
In-House Calibre: 978
Movement type
Automatic winding
Thickness
6.45mm
Vibtrations per hour
28800
Frequency (HZ)
4
Power Reserve
45 hours
Functions
Tourbillon, Seconde sur tourbillon, Hour – Minute, 24-hour display, Date a aiguille
At LVMH Watch Week 2026 in Milan, ZENITH presents a sharply focused vision—one that places the DEFY collection at the centre of its contemporary identity. Across revival pieces, refined three-hand models, ceramic chronographs, skeletonized movements, and a high-frequency tourbillon, ZENITH makes one thing clear: DEFY is no longer a category. It is a philosophy.
This year’s novelties explore the idea of urban resilience—how architecture, precision, and material innovation come together to create watches designed not only to be admired, but to endure.
DEFY Revival A3643: The Origin of the DEFY Language
The DEFY story begins in 1969, and in 2026, ZENITH returns to one of its earliest and most defining references: the DEFY Revival A3643.
True to the historical model, the watch features the legendary “Time-Safe” case, protected by a screwed 14-sided bezel and caseback—a design conceived to withstand extreme conditions. Rendered in stainless steel and sized at 37mm, the proportions remain faithful to the original while feeling perfectly attuned to modern preferences for compact, versatile watches.
A silver dial with applied indices and Super-LumiNova® ensures clarity, while the integrated steel bracelet—with a modern micro-adjustment clasp—adds contemporary comfort. Powering the watch is the Elite 670, a calibre that represents a milestone in ZENITH’s manufacture history: precise, slim, and engineered for long-term reliability.
Importantly, the A3643 is more than a revival. Its angular case architecture directly inspired the design language of the modern DEFY Skyline collection—making this watch the conceptual cornerstone of the entire DEFY universe.
DEFY Skyline 36mm: Modern Geometry in Refined Proportions
With the DEFY Skyline 36mm, ZENITH refines its urban design vocabulary into a more compact, unisex format without sacrificing presence.
The stainless-steel case retains the Skyline’s distinctive angular silhouette and dodecagonal bezel, while a new white-toned sunray dial introduces a softer, more luminous expression of the collection’s signature four-pointed star pattern. The result is a watch that feels architectural yet elegant—sporty, but undeniably refined.
Two interpretations define the range:
a classic steel bezel for understated versatility
a diamond-set dodecagonal bezel (52 diamonds, 1 carat) that elevates the watch into a more jewellery-forward territory while remaining unmistakably DEFY
Inside, the Elite 670 once again delivers automatic precision with a 50-hour power reserve. An interchangeable bracelet system with an additional rubber strap reinforces the Skyline’s everyday adaptability.
This is DEFY at its most accessible—confident, balanced, and effortlessly contemporary.
DEFY Skyline Chronograph Black Ceramic: High-Frequency, High Impact
The DEFY Skyline Chronograph Black Ceramic introduces a more assertive expression of the collection’s urban identity.
Clad entirely in black ceramic, the 42mm case and dodecagonal bezel amplify the Skyline’s sharp geometry while offering exceptional scratch resistance and durability. The black sunray dial, engraved with the star motif, creates depth and contrast beneath luminous applied indices.
At its core is the El Primero 3600, ZENITH’s modern high-frequency chronograph calibre. Beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, it enables true 1/10th of a second measurement, displayed directly and intuitively. Despite this technical performance, the movement maintains a robust 60-hour power reserve, underscoring ZENITH’s mastery of efficiency at high frequency.
This watch embodies DEFY’s performance ethos—precision expressed through material innovation and architectural clarity.
DEFY Skyline Skeleton Black Ceramic: Transparency with Intent
Skeletonization within the DEFY collection is not decorative—it is structural. The DEFY Skyline Skeleton Black Ceramic demonstrates this philosophy with striking clarity.
The 41mm black ceramic case frames a skeletonized movement finished in rose-gold-toned PVD, creating a powerful contrast between darkness and warmth. The openworked architecture follows ZENITH’s star-shaped design language, ensuring that every bridge serves both mechanical and visual purpose.
Powering the watch is the El Primero 3620 SK, a high-frequency automatic movement that features a 1/10th of a second indicator designed for smooth, continuous motion. An integrated braking system prevents hand jumping, allowing the indicator to rotate fluidly—an example of functional innovation hidden beneath visual drama.
The result is a watch that reveals its mechanics without compromising legibility or balance.
DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton: A High-Frequency First
The most significant technical statement of ZENITH’s 2026 presentation arrives in the DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton, limited to 50 pieces worldwide.
For the first time, ZENITH combines a high-frequency 5Hz tourbillon with a fully skeletonized architecture inside the DEFY Skyline case. Crafted in rose gold, the 41mm watch houses the El Primero 3630, a movement that redefines the relationship between complexity and efficiency.
The tourbillon cage—shaped like ZENITH’s iconic double-Z star—completes one rotation per minute at 6 o’clock. Despite the energy demands of a high-frequency tourbillon, the movement delivers an impressive 60-hour power reserve, achieved through an ultra-light aluminium cage weighing just 0.25 grams.
This watch represents the summit of the DEFY philosophy: architectural design, high-frequency precision, and haute horlogerie expertise unified in a single, uncompromising creation.
DEFY in 2026: A Unified Vision
Across every model unveiled at LVMH Watch Week 2026, ZENITH communicates a clear and disciplined message. DEFY is not defined by complication or material alone—it is defined by structure, frequency, and intent.
From the historical foundations of the A3643 to the technical audacity of the tourbillon skeleton, the DEFY collection expresses a singular vision of modern watchmaking—one that is urban, resilient, and relentlessly forward-looking.
In 2026, ZENITH does not chase trends. It builds frameworks—and dares time to keep up.
Girard-Perregaux at the Summit of Haute Horlogerie: Cosmos, Neo Constant Escapement & Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges
Few manufactures embody the union of invention, chronometric ambition and visual poetry quite like Girard-Perregaux. Founded in 1791, the Maison has consistently pushed the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking, not only in pursuit of precision, but also in the way time is architecturally expressed. In its latest high-horology statements, Girard-Perregaux presents three extraordinary creations that together form a manifesto of its savoir-faire: the Cosmos (Unique Piece), the Neo Constant Escapement, and the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges. Each explores a different dimension of time — cosmic, constant, and architectural — yet all are unmistakably Girard-Perregaux.
Neo Constant Escapement
Luxury watch luminous hands and markers
Girard-Perregaux Three Bridges timepiece luxury watch
Cosmos: A Mechanical Universe on the Wrist
The Girard-Perregaux Cosmos returns in 2025 as a unique piece, reaffirming the Manufacture’s mastery of complex complications and poetic display. First introduced in 2019, the Cosmos stands apart for its ability to translate astronomical phenomena into three-dimensional mechanical theatre.
At the heart of this titanium-cased timepiece lies three major complications:
A tourbillon positioned at six o’clock, housed within a lyre-shaped cage and supported by a titanium Neo Bridge — a contemporary interpretation of Constant Girard’s historic arrow-shaped bridges.
A terrestrial globe at three o’clock, rotating once every 24 hours and offering a day/night indication, encircled by an hour ring inspired by Saturn’s rings.
A celestial globe at nine o’clock, mapping the Zodiac constellations and completing a rotation in a true sidereal day (23h 56m 4s).
The dial construction is equally evocative: a two-part surface combining Tahitian mother-of-pearl with a reduced-thickness layer of blue aventurine, allowing light to interact with shimmering mineral textures. The off-centred time display, rendered in black with white-gold hands and luminescent accents, ensures legibility amid the cosmic complexity.
Powering the watch is the in-house Calibre GP09320, a hand-wound movement finished to the highest standards, featuring circular graining, bevelled bridges and a power reserve of at least 57 hours. Even the act of winding becomes an experience, thanks to four rotating bows (“bélières”) on the case back, replacing a conventional crown.
The Cosmos is not merely a complication showcase — it is a miniature universe, engineered with scientific precision and poetic intent.
If the Cosmos speaks to wonder, the Neo Constant Escapement speaks to control — specifically, the pursuit of constant force, one of watchmaking’s most elusive goals. Building on the award-winning Constant Escapement concept that earned Girard-Perregaux the Aiguille d’Or in 2013, the Neo Constant Escapement represents decades of research distilled into a wearable chronometer.
Central to this innovation is a silicium blade, inspired by the physical phenomenon of buckling. Regardless of how much energy remains in the twin barrels, this blade delivers a perfectly uniform impulse to the balance wheel, ensuring stable amplitude and exceptional rate consistency until the very last moment of power.
The 2025 releases introduce two new executions:
A 45 mm pink gold version, combining advanced escapement technology with the warmth and gravitas of a precious metal case.
An ultra-limited carbon and silicium composite edition, restricted to just two numbered pieces, offering exceptional lightness, resistance, and a stealthy contemporary aesthetic.
Both are powered by the COSC-certified Calibre GP09200, an in-house hand-wound movement offering an impressive 7-day power reserve. The architecture of the dial places the escapement front and centre, beneath Neo Bridges, transforming mechanical regulation into a visual focal point.
The Neo Constant Escapement is not designed to impress through ornament alone — it is a demonstration of how deep scientific insight can redefine mechanical performance at the highest level.
Girard-Perregaux Three Bridges timepiece luxury watch
Cosmos Neo Constant Escapement luxury Swiss watch
Neo Constant Escapement mechanical watch movement visible
Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges: Architecture in Light
The Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges is perhaps the most emblematic expression of Girard-Perregaux’s identity. Rooted in the legendary Three Bridges Tourbillon of 1867 and immortalised by La Esmeralda in 1889, the bridges have evolved into a signature where structure and beauty are inseparable.
The latest iteration is housed in a 44 mm white gold case and limited to just eight pieces worldwide. Three black-tinted titanium bridges, more sinuous and contemporary than their 19th-century predecessors, appear to float within a sapphire “box” case that floods the movement with light.
Unlike traditional designs, the watch dispenses with a conventional mainplate. Instead, the bridges themselves provide structural integrity, supporting the gear train, barrel and tourbillon. Luminescent hour markers are mounted directly onto the case, while skeletonised white-gold hands ensure clarity without disrupting the airy, three-dimensional composition.
Inside beats the Calibre GP09400, a self-winding movement with a patented micro-rotor crafted in white gold. Ingeniously positioned beneath the barrel, the micro-rotor allows the movement to remain slim while preserving an unobstructed view of its architecture. With a minimum 60-hour power reserve, it is as technically refined as it is visually captivating.
This is horology as architecture — light, space and mechanics fused into a singular aesthetic statement.
Neo Constant Escapement
Cosmos Neo Constant Escapement luxury Swiss watch
Cosmos, Neo Constant Escapement
Three Visions, One Manufacture
Together, the Cosmos, Neo Constant Escapement, and Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges illustrate the extraordinary breadth of Girard-Perregaux’s expertise. From cosmic complication to constant-force innovation and architectural transparency, each watch represents a distinct philosophy, yet all share the same foundations: in-house mastery, uncompromising finishing, and a relentless drive to push Haute Horlogerie forward.
These are not merely timepieces — they are mechanical narratives, written by a Manufacture that has been shaping the future of watchmaking for over two centuries.
Her name is Catrina. She is one of the very few female incarnations of death in the Mexican Day of the Dead (Día de los Muertos). Jaquet Droz has adopted this unusual, exuberant and disruptive character in line with its own approach to master craftsmanship. The result is a unique piece in red gold that exhibits a mastery of micro-painting, paillonné and grand feu enamel, for the benefit of a single collector.
A web of mythology surrounds it. It is not known precisely what year she was born. 1912? 1913? This calavera, the emblematic figure of the Mexican Day of the Dead, seems to have sprung from the imagination of an illustrator. And while the first female calaveras appeared in 1889, it was not until 1930 that this one was given her official name – Catrina. The great lady has spanned the decades with consummate ease. Now, a century later, she has crossed continents to appear at the Jaquet Droz workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
With this unique piece, Jaquet Droz is demonstrating its independence. Not to mention its audacity. By moving away from the masculine clichés of the skull, Catrina offers a neo-romantic vision of the Mexican floral. Contrary to custom, here we see a richly coloured figure surrounded by a wreath of flowers. In keeping with the naturalist spirit that has inspired it for nearly three centuries, Jaquet Droz has appropriated this dazzling floral myth of Mexican culture.
The figure of Catrina occupies the right two thirds of the dial. It’s all about the details: the two whites divided between the face and the smile, with two different levels of contrast, the minute variations in pink and violet, the shades of the gold dots with the two hands in red gold, and the green, sometimes bright and clear, sometimes dark and threatening.
This contrast is underscored by the diversity of craftsmanship on display. Catrina’s head is in micro-paint, but the floral base on the left of the dial is in grand feu enamel. The foliage is hand-engraved on a 1.1 mm thick gold dial. Each leaf has a different depth, and is filled with enamel powder and fired several times.
In this case, the gold dots are not hand-painted, but rather paillons. The technique, which Jaquet Droz has been using for nearly three centuries, consists of capturing tiny hand-chiselled motifs in gold leaf under a thin layer of invisible varnish. In the same spirit, the lightness of the freehand micro-painting contrasts with the watchmaking rigour of the tourbillon visible at 12 o’clock. Within its ocular orbit, it features a high-precision mechanism with an 8-day power reserve. The choice of a flying tourbillon, with no upper bridge, offers a bird’s-eye view of the watch’s regulating organ. This ballet, orchestrated to the micron, offers a precise measurement of time in defiance of Catrina – herself unconcerned with the whole concept – and with a rigour to which she seems oblivious.
On the back, this great lady of Dia de los Muertos asserts her femininity with a final flourish that is only visible to collectors. Its mother-of-pearl oscillating weight is decorated with two gold star appliques edged with multicoloured foliage. Created entirely by hand by Jaquet Droz artists, the Catrina Skull in a 39 mm red gold is a model for a unique collector.
Swiss luxury watchmaker TAG Heuer arrives at Geneva Watch Days 2025 with a powerful and diverse showcase that reflects the full depth of its creative and technical ambition. Across standout releases, the brand explores radically different watchmaking frontiers, united by one shared vision: pushing the limits of what is possible in design, engineering and storytelling. At the heart of this year’s watch fair is the launch of TH-Carbonspring, a major innovation in watchmaking technology. Alongside it, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer reimagines the moonphase complication in a unique and precise interpretation.
This is what TAG Heuer is all about: avant-garde watchmaking in motion— bold, curious and uncompromising.
THINKING WATCH-MAKING IN THE 21ST CENTURY
Introducing the TH-Carbonspring oscillator, a technical breakthrough that will shape the future of mechanical watchmaking, and two world-premiere limited-edition watches that tell the story of TAG Heuer’s winning innovation. TAG Heuer, the luxury Swiss watchmaker that has been a leader in avant-garde precision timekeeping instruments for more than 160 years, is proud to announce a new paradigm in mechanical watchmaking. The TH-Carbonspring is a revolutionary technical innovation that will define the next chapter in watchmaking’s epic five-hundred-year story.
The TH-Carbonspring oscillator significantly improves the environmental resistance and long-term stability of a mechanical watch. It has been conceived, developed and is produced entirely in-house by the TAG Heuer LAB, and is the result of a decade of intensive research and development. For almost 10 years, TAG Heuer’s expert watchmakers, engineers and technicians have devoted themselves to realizing this watchmaking milestone, battling the forces of physics and overcoming numerous challenges to deliver a technical innovation that fast-tracks TAG Heuer into the future. As much as a tale of scientific breakthrough and the brilliance of the team behind it, this is a story of single-mindedness, resilience and overcoming the odds. As per a dynamic new brand campaign introduced at Watches and Wonders Geneva this April, victory belongs to TAG Heuer: “Designed to Win”.
A New Milestone in Watchmaking History
The story of modern mechanical watchmaking began around half a millennium ago. It took a giant leap forward in 1675, when the Dutch polymath Christian Huygens invented the modern oscillator by pairing a balance wheel and a hairspring, a hair-like spiral installed at the heart of a movement’s regulating organ. This tiny spring enabled watchmakers to control the oscillation of a watch movement’s balance wheel, delivering significant improvements not only in timekeeping precision, but also in portability. The hairspring would change the course of horological history and shape the 350 years of watchmaking that followed up until today. It had its flaws, though. Initially made of steel, a ferrous material, it was subject to the effects of shocks, temperature changes and magnetism. Over the past 100 years and as the technological age began, material improvements would see steel replaced by special, more resistant alloys. Then, a quarter of a century ago, the watch industry embraced silicon, harnessing its low-maintenance and high-resistance properties to greatly improve the everyday performance of mechanical watches.
So, what next? The TAG Heuer LAB could have iterated on silicon hairspring technology. But the true avant- garde spirit demands a fresh approach. And so instead, the TAG Heuer LAB chose to break the mold and to push the boundaries of innovation. Today, in the 350th anniversary year of Huygens’ invention and armed with its revolutionary new hairspring technology, TAG Heuer is ready to begin a new chapter in mechanical watchmaking. The age of TH-Carbonspring has begun.
Ten Years of Relentless Effort
The process behind the TH-Carbonspring oscillator began a decade ago and it has taken nine years of dedication and unrelenting self-belief and determination to transform the intellectual concept behind it into a fully functioning reality. Along the way, there have been false dawns and existential setbacks, sobering moments that might have stopped others in their tracks.
But TAG Heuer does not quit. Rather than treating them as a dead end, and summoning extraordinary mental strength, the TAG Heuer LAB turned these setbacks into steps forward, leveraging the learnings of each near-thing to inch closer to the ultimate solution. With every experience, TAG Heuer’s engineers were able to tweak and improve the blueprint. A turning point came in 2019, when a solution came to market. It fell short of TAG Heuer’s precision standards, but it also helped pinpoint the changes required. To perfect the system, another six demanding years of development would be needed. Through this period, the company’s engineers identified the additional manufacturing steps that would progress and refine the hairspring’s environmental resistance and long-term stability. After thousands of hours of testing, the TAG Heuer LAB confirmed the technology was ready for industrialization and could be put into production watches with, critically, the company’s assurances of a five-year warranty firmly intact. After almost a decade, TAG Heuer now proudly presents a hairspring that not only realizes the mission’s goals, but that also works reliably and consistently for thousands and thousands of hours, delivering exceptional mechanical timekeeping precision and performance in line with TAG Heuer’s avant-garde, winning spirit.
“Given the scale and complexity of the goal we set ourselves at the TAG Heuer LAB, the innovation process has involved countless steps and at least as many failures as successes,” said Emmanuel Dupas, TAG Heuer technical director. “It starts with intuition, then a hypothesis, then development, and then testing. Each result carries weight. Sometimes a result gives you confidence in your hypothesis. Other times, it goes against it and your hypothesis breaks down. There are no short cuts. Only hard work, backed by a healthy level of scientific doubt and the competences of your team.”
M. Dupas reflected on the achievement: “We’ve devoted nine years of our lives to opening a new chapter in the wonderful story of precision mechanical watchmaking,” he said. “We are immensely proud of this achievement and the role it will play in the history of this avant-garde, innovation-centric company, and of the everyday performance enhancements it will deliver to TAG Heuer owners.”
The Carbon Spiral’s Three Performance Upgrades
The TH-Carbonspring is an exclusive technical development, patented by TAG Heuer, and it delivers three material benefits that will improve a watch’s daily performance. First, is that the hairspring is “amagnetic”, or resistant to magnetism, a significant property in an age when the everyday devices that surround us emit strong magnetic fields. When magnetized, non-static mechanical watch components become compromised and can no longer perform at their peak, with a negative knock-on impact on precision. In extreme cases, magnetized watches will stop working altogether. The second is that the TH-Carbonspring is resistant to shocks. Even simple actions such as closing a door or clapping can create shocks that will disrupt the smooth running and accuracy of a mechanical watch. TAG Heuer’s development counters these effects. And the third is that carbon has lightweight properties that reduce inertia in a hairspring, thereby increasing chronometric performance.
The TAG Heuer LAB’s Finest Hour
As unique as the performance traits is the story of the TH-Carbonspring’s development and production. It was developed entirely in-house by the TAG Heuer LAB, the Swiss watchmaker’s recently renamed innovation center once known as the TAG Heuer Institute, which was previously responsible for a catalogue of ground-breaking material and mechanical innovations. As well as being developed in-house, the TH-Carbonspring is produced entirely in-house, leveraging the company’s multidisciplinary technical expertise and network of vertically integrated, industrialized Swiss manufacturing centers. TAG Heuer has filed four patent applications related to this technology. One of these has already been granted and the other three are pending at the time of publication. After almost a decade in development, it’s clear the TH-Carbonspring is the product of extraordinary mental strength, a seemingly impossible comeback that in the spirit of TAG Heuer is Designed to Win.
Winning Designs for the Carbon Age
For the first watches to carry the new TH-Carbonspring technology, TAG Heuer turned to its two most emblematic designs: the TAG Heuer Monaco and the TAG Heuer Carrera. The iconic duo defines TAG Heuer’s innovative spirit, technical creativity and elite motorsport pedigree, and has been telling TAG Heuer’s avant-garde story for more than half a century. As a result, the very first watches to carry the new TH-Carbonspring oscillator also embody this new chapter in watchmaking history. The TAG Heuer Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring and TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring marry their own unique design codes with the story of TAG Heuer’s ground-breaking new technology. Each has a case forged in carbon fiber, a high-tech material that TAG Heuer has been pioneering in watchmaking for many years, exercising its lightweight, highly resistant properties and motorsport connections to produce watches that combine TAG Heuer’s past and present together in seamless harmony.
Both watches also feature bespoke carbon fiber detailing, most notably in their forged carbon dials decorated with a spiral that, like a hairspring, is snail-shaped rather than a perfect circle.
Every Detail Matters
As per TAG Heuer’s design mantra, a watch must perform its primary function efficiently. For legibility, the TAG Heuer Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring has black-gold-plated hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova®, and high-contrast white lacquered hands. A black-gold small second hand, black forged carbon indexes, crown and chronograph pushers add to the watch’s high- tech stealth look. Finishing the picture are black-gold chapter rings around the two subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock, and a black rubber strap with a fabric-like pattern. The timepiece is powered by TAG Heuer’s in-house TH20- 60 Calibre, a chronometer-certified automatic flyback chronograph with an 80-hour power reserve. As avant-garde is the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring. Its core characteristics mirror those of its TAG Heuer Monaco counterpart, with the addition of a forged carbon bezel with a tachymeter scale, and a switch to a sleek black rubber strap. Inside beats TAG Heuer’s in-house TH20-61 Calibre, an automatic chronometer-certified chronograph tourbillon movement featuring a 65-hour power reserve.
Both new watches will be limited to just 50 numbered pieces and presented in bespoke packaging.
TAG Heuer on Pole
The TH-Carbonspring isn’t the chequered flag: instead, it puts TAG Heuer in pole position as the race begins. This is the first step on a path of continuous improvement, leading to a new generation of high- performing mechanical watches that deliver enhanced, meaningful everyday functionality to owners. This is avant-garde innovation. It has purpose. And the story will go on.
“The TH-Carbonspring is a major watchmaking breakthrough and a milestone in the history of this endlessly innovative 165-year-old company,” said Antoine Pin, TAG Heuer chief executive. “But it’s also a story of towering mental strength and resilience. Imagine spending a decade on realizing a single idea. It’s incredible. An epic, heroic achievement that only a brand Designed to Win could have pulled off. And this is just the beginning. There are many complementary technologies in the pipeline and, in time, these will trickle down through our collections of high-performance, highly precise mechanical watches. This is avant-garde watchmaking for the 21st century. This is TAG Heuer.”
THE RHYTHM OF THE COSMOS
TAG Heuer introduces the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer, a new lunar interpretation in modern watchmaking
Born on the racetrack and crafted to conquer every horizon, from racing to sailing, the TAG Heuer Carrera collection has always pushed boundaries. Today, its pioneering spirit propels it further into the world of space and astronomy. With the spirit of conquest that defines the TAG Heuer Carrera, the brand begins its next chapter in astronomical watchmaking, staying true to its heritage while pushing forward a bold and contemporary interpretation with the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer. This timepiece introduces an avant- garde expression of the moonphase complication, crafted with clarity, precision, and a deep respect for cosmic rhythm. As a modern evolution in the collection, the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer signals a distinct expansion into a space once touched by the brand’s pioneering instruments.
A Legacy Marked by Orbit
In 1962, a significant moment in both watchmaking and space history occurred when astronaut John Glenn wore a specifically modified Heuer 2915A stopwatch aboard NASA’s Friendship 7 spacecraft. On February 20 of that year, Glenn relied on this precision instrument as he circled Earth three times, bringing a Swiss timepiece into space for the first time. This achievement affirmed TAG Heuer’s technical ingenuity and its readiness to perform beyond Earth’s limits. The mission became a defining chapter in the brand’s history, linking precision watchmaking to the pursuit of discovery on a global stage. That legacy now leads to the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer, a timepiece that trades the adrenaline of race circuits and finish lines for the measured precision of the lunar cycle, following one of the most daring chapters of human explorations. With this launch, TAG Heuer expands its creative and mechanical reach, continuing to design instruments that challenge convention and embrace the unknown.
Lunar Precision
At the core of the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer is the newly released Calibre 7, a mechanical movement with a 50-hour power reserve. This movement powers a moonphase complication that redefines how lunar cycles are read. At 6 o’clock, a rotating disc presents seven illustrated moon stages with crisp accuracy. Flanked by two slender arrows calibrated for daily motion, the display clearly shows the moon’s current phase as well as its position in the 29.5-day cycle. This approach breaks from the abstract displays commonly associated with traditional moonphase watches. TAG Heuer has chosen scientific precision as the design principle. The result is both functional and avant-garde, bringing clarity and fidelity to astronomical reality. Each day at 1:00 AM, the lunar disc advances in perfect rhythm with real-world moon movement. This synchronization elevates accuracy and strengthens the sense of connection between the wearer and the moonphase cycle above. The dial design reflects this philosophy with this avant-garde moonphase display being the focal point. On the reverse, the caseback reveals an astronomical observatory, a tribute to the timepiece’s cosmic inspiration, accompanied by the Victory Wreath, symbolizing triumph and enduring excellence.
Three Models for one Celestial vision
The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer is introduced through three distinct models, each shaped by its own visual identity but united by a shared creative direction. Together, they form a trilogy of designs that captures the collection’s lunar inspiration with a rich balance of materiality, color, and form.
The first model, part of the core TAG Heuer Carrera collection, brings clarity and bold contrast through a stainless-steel construction paired with a silver dial. Its black flange and black moonphase disc evoke the stillness of space, while deep grey detailing adds a sense of movement and atmosphere. The rhodium- plated hands are coated with white Super-LumiNova® for optimum legibility. The bracelet, a modern interpretation of the Maison’s iconic beads of rice design from the 1960s, connects the watch to TAG Heuer’s history of elegance with purpose. Its visual weight and fluidity of form create a confident, grounded silhouette.
The second edition, produced in a limited run of 500 individually numbered pieces, introduces modernity through its crisp visual contrasts and refined details. The silver dial is framed by a dark grey flange, providing an edge that sets the stage for the timepiece’s turquoise accents – all enhanced with Super-LumiNova®. These luminous details, visible on the Arabic numerals, hands, and moonphase display, bring a futuristic tone to the design and introduce a heightened sense of energy. This model is fitted with a grey leather strap that adds a tactile, modern elegance to the overall composition.
The third model brings warmth and refinement to the series. It combines stainless steel with rose gold tones, resulting in a two-tone look. The 18K 5N rose gold plated flange and matching hands – filled with Super-LumiNova® – and Arabic numerals introduce a sense of preciousness. The moonphase display is rendered in a tone-on-tone palette, subtly integrated into the composition. This edition, also limited to 500 individually numbered pieces, is fitted with a steel and 18K 5N rose gold fine-brushed bracelet that echoes the beads-of-rice structure.
While each model tells its own story, the overall aesthetics remains cohesive. The 39-millimeter case size gives the collection a balanced presence on the wrist, precisely proportioned for everyday elegance.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer brings together the artistry of celestial observation and the rigor of high-performance watchmaking. It represents a shift in how time is perceived – less as a constant tick and more as a cycle, a rhythm. With this collection, TAG Heuer reimagines its purpose for today’s world, where technology, design, and meaning must move together. This is not a return to form. It is a forward step into a territory that speaks of vision, curiosity, and alignment with something greater than time alone. The TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer reminds us that even the most familiar complications can become new again when viewed through a wider horizon.
TAG Heuer Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring: CBL5190.FT6313
Dial
Black carbon dial with spiral-shaped engraving
Black flange with 60 second / minute scale
3 counters:
– 3 o’clock: black opalin minute chronograph counter; white Super-LumiNova® hand
– 9 o’clock: black opalin hour chronograph counter; white Super-LumiNova® hand
– 6 o’clock: second chronograph counter; black gold hand
Black carbon applied indexes
Black gold hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova®
White Super-LumiNova® flyback chronograph central hand
Rhodium plated TAG HEUER applied logo “MONACO” “FLYBACK” “SWISS MADE” printed
Case
39mm
Black forged carbon case
Beveled, domed sapphire crystal
Forged black carbon crown at 3 o’clock
Forged black carbon shaped push-button at 2 o’clock
Forged black carbon shaped push-button at 4 o’clock
Square shaped sapphire caseback with limited-edition special engraving Water resistance: 100 meters
Bracelet
Black rubber strap with textile embossing & black stitching Black DLC grade-2 titanium folding clasp; TAG HEUER logo
Dimensions
Lug-to-lug: 47,4mm Thickness: 14,1mm
Availability
December 2025
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring: CBU5091.FT6305
Dial
Black carbon dial with spiral-shaped engraving
Black flange with 60 second / minute scale
Two counters:
– 3o’clock:blackopalinminutechronographcounter;blackgoldhallowedhandwith white lacquered tip
– 9 o’clock: black opalin hour chronograph counter; black gold hallowed hand with white lacquered tip
– 6 o’clock: flying tourbillon visible at 6 o’clock through an aperture in the dial, circuled with a black-gold ring
Black carbon applied indexes with white Super-LumiNova®
Black gold facetted hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova® White lacquered central chronograph hand with white Super-LumiNova® Rhodium plated TAG HEUER applied logo
“CARRERA” and “SWISS MADE” printed
Case
44mm
Black forged carbon case
Black forged carbon tachymeter bezel
“TACHYMETRE” engraved, lacquered on bezel
Forged black carbon crown at 9 o’clock
Forged black carbon round push-button at 2 o’clock
Forged black carbon round push-button at 4 o’clock
Black sandblasted DLC grade-2 titanium screwed caseback with limited-edition special engraving
Water resistance: 100 meters
Bracelet
Black rubber strap
Black DLC grade-2 titanium folding clasp; TAG HEUER logo
Dimensions
Lug-to-lug: 49,7mm Thickness: 15,4mm
Availability
Q1 2026
TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer: WBX2112.FC6615
Movement
Calibre 7
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, moonphase
Dial
Silver sunray brushed dial
Black, silver flange with 60 second / minute scale
1 counter at 6 o’clock:
Dark grey central rotating disc indicating moonphases
Rhodium plated polished applied numerals
Rhodium plated facetted, polished hour and minute hands with turquoise Super-LumiNova®
Rhodium plated polished central hand
Black TAG HEUER printed logo
“CARRERA”, “ASTRONOMER”, “SWISS” & moonphases indications printed
Case
39mm diameter
Steel polished case
Steel polished fixed bezel
Beveled, domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment
Polished steel standard crown at 3 o’clock
Steel screw-down caseback with “space observatory” and “LIMITED EDITION XXX/500” special engraving
Victory Wreath engraving Water resistance: 100 meters
Bracelet
Grey leather strap
Steel fine brushed, polished double folding clasp with double safety push-buttons; TAG Heuer applied shield
Dimensions
Lug-to-lug: 45.2mm Thickness: 12.16mm
Availability
October 2025
TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer: WBX2110.BA0044
Movement
Calibre 7
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, moonphase
Dial
Silver sunray brushed dial
Black & silver flanges, with 60 second / minute scale
1 counter at 6 o’clock:
Black central rotating disc indicating moonphases
Black fine-grained outer counter, with moonphases markings
“ASTRONOMER” logo & moonphases indications in white Super-LumiNova® by day
Rhodium plated facetted; polished applied numerals
Rhodium-plated faceted, polished hour and minute hands with white Super- LumiNova® by day
Rhodium-plated polished central hand
Black TAG HEUER printed logo
“CARRERA”, “ASTRONOMER”, “SWISS” & moonphases indications printed
Case
39mm diameter
Steel fine-brushed, polished case
Steel polished fixed bezel
Beveled, domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment Steel polished crown at 3 o’clock
Steel screw-down caseback with “space observatory” special engraving Victory Wreath engraving
Water resistance: 100 meters
Bracelet
Steel fine-brushed, polished 7 rows bracelet
Steel fine brushed, polished double folding clasp with double safety push-buttons; TAG Heuer applied shield
Dimensions
Lug-to-lug: 45.2mm Thickness: 12.16mm
Availability
October 2025
TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer: WBX2111.BD0002
Movement
Calibre 7
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, moonphase
Dial
Silver sunray brushed dial
18K 5N rose gold plated & silver flanges, with 60 second / minute scale
1 counter at 6 o’clock:
Silver central rotating disc indicating moonphases
Silver fine-grained outer counter, with moonphases markings, 18K 5N rose gold plated outline
18K 5N rose gold plated polished applied numerals
18K 5N rose gold plated facetted, polished hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova®
18K 5N rose gold plated polished central hand
Black TAG HEUER printed logo
“CARRERA”, “ASTRONOMER”, “SWISS” & moonphases indications printed
Case
39mm diameter
Steel fine-brushed, polished case
Steel polished fixed bezel
Beveled, domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment
Steel polished crown at 3 o’clock
Steel screw-down caseback with “space observatory” and “LIMITED EDITION XXX/500” special engraving
Victory Wreath engraving Water resistance: 100 meters
Bracelet
Steel & 18K 5N rose gold fine-brushed, polished 7 rows bracelet
Steel fine brushed, polished double folding clasp with double safety push-buttons; TAG Heuer applied logo
Jaeger-LeCoultre continues its pursuit of precision in mechanics and aesthetics with three new interpretations of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985. Two are cased in Platinum (950/1000) with an eye-catching blue dial, one with a polished bezel and one with a diamond-set bezel, and the third is cased in 18k pink gold (750/1000) with a brown dial. Developed in 2013, Calibre 985 unites a perpetual calendar and moon phase display with the fascination of a flying tourbillon equipped with a cylindrical hairspring.
Inspired by the quest for precision
The pursuit of precision at Jaeger-LeCoultre is driven by the values of its founder, Antoine LeCoultre. His obsession with accuracy, not only in the design and structure of his calibres, but also in the finishing, assembly and decoration of each case and dial, has inspired every succeeding generation to continue the journey. Calibre 985, incorporating a tourbillon with a cylindrical hairspring, masterfully demonstrates the Manufacture’s expertise in this quest for precision.
The regulating organ – comprising the balance wheel, hairspring and escapement – is one of the most important parts of a movement as it governs the accuracy of timekeeping. Having focused considerable effort for many years on researching the effect of incorporating tourbillons into the regulating organ and on the impact of differently shaped hairsprings, Jaeger-LeCoultre has a deep understanding of how this affects the accuracy of the watch. The expansion and contraction of the hairspring controls the back-and-forth oscillations of the balance wheel, and it is crucial that these oscillations are concentric in order to limit the impact of both gravity and magnetism.
The Manufacture’s engineers discovered that the shape and attachment (terminal curves) of a hairspring determine the way it contracts and expands. They determined that different shapes oscillate differently, according to the specific construction of the regulating organ in a particular calibre. This has prompted the development of hairsprings in S-shape, spherical, semi-spherical and cylindrical forms. Being one of the very few Manufactures able to shape its own hairsprings in-house gives La Grande Maison a distinct advantage in this respect.
The helical or cylindrical form of the hairspring was invented in 1776 then largely forgotten until the 21st century. The ends of the spring coil inwards and it offers enhanced isochronic performance, beating concentrically in every position, regardless of the amplitude (the back-and-forth swing of the balance wheel) or remaining power reserve. This is the hairspring used in Calibre 985.
Calibre 985 – The precision of complications and decoration
A complex and sophisticated movement entirely developed and produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre, Calibre 985 is composed of 431 parts, of which the flying tourbillon alone comprises 83 components. Crafted in titanium, it weighs just 0.386 grams. The enhanced isochronism of the cylindrical hairspring made it the right choice for this movement, which delivers all the functions of a perpetual calendar, as well as a moon phase that will require no adjustment for 122 years.
On the reverse side of the watch, the sapphire crystal case back reveals the exceptional precision of the Haute Horlogerie finishes on the movement, including blued screws, sunrayed Côtes de Genève, snailing and hand-bevelling. The winding rotor in 22k rose gold (916/1000) is decorated with sunray engraving and a reproduction of the gold medal awarded to Antoine LeCoultre at the 1851 Great Exhibition in London for his development of precisely calibrated stamping, cutting machines and mechanical lathes which allowed the components’ interchangeability.
Exceptional cases in platinum and in pink gold with a signature dial
Sophisticated in design and complex in structure, the Master Grande Tradition case consists of more than 80 components. With screwed in lugs and a mix of polished, brushed and micro-blasted surfaces, the case is reserved for only the Maison’s most complex calibres.
The warm glow of the pink gold case is complemented by the soft brown of the corresponding dial, while the cool tones of the platinum case create a striking contrast with the rich blue dial, enhanced by the high polish of the bezel. On the second platinum-cased model, the colour contrast is amplified by diamonds. The bezel is set with 72 baguette-cut diamonds, making a total of approximately 3.4 carats – the subject of 15 hours of gem-setting work in the Manufacture’s own Métiers Rares™ atelier.
A hand-bevelled bridge spans across the dial, with the area surrounding the tourbillon set below the rest of the dial for both aesthetic effect and technical reasons. Tiny details and subtle colour variations add visual interest: the minute track and periphery of each sub-dial are micro-blasted, the inside of the sub-dials is opaline, appearing to change colour in different lights, and the three-dimensional letters and numerals of the calendar indications are laser-engraved in relief, to stand out against their background. Given the emphasis on timekeeping precision, the seconds are indicated on an arc-shaped 20-second scale below the tourbillon aperture – with the three blue hands mounted on the tourbillon cage each measuring a 20-second interval as the tourbillon completes a rotation around its axis every 60 seconds.
The outstanding Master Grande Tradition watch calibres, each comprising multiple complications and several hundred components, epitomise La Grande Maison’s spirit of innovation and devotion to precision. This complexity is complemented by remarkable precision in the decoration and finishing of both movement components and habillage. The new dials of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 are elegant and pure, while the sapphire crystal case back offers a glimpse into true watchmaking mastery.
TECHNICAL DETAILS
MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 985 Case: Platinum (950/1000) Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 13.27 mm thick Calibre: Automatic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985 Functions: Hours, minutes, cylindrical flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, (Day, date, month, year), moon phases, Night & Day Frequency: 28,800 vph Power Reserve: 45 hours Dial: Blue Caseback: Sapphire crystal Water resistance: 5 bar Strap: Blue alligator with small scale alligator lining, pin buckle Reference: Q5246580
MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 985 Case: Platinum (950/1000) Dimensions: 72 baguette-cut diamonds (3.4 carats) Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 13.27 mm thick Calibre: Automatic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985 Functions: Hours, minutes, cylindrical flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, (Day, date, month, year), moon phases, Night & Day Frequency: 28,800 vph Power Reserve: 45 hours Dial: Blue Caseback: Sapphire crystal Water resistance: 5 bar Strap: Blue alligator with small scale alligator lining, pin buckle Reference: Q5246508
MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 985 Case: Pink Gold (18k – 750/1000) Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 13.27mm thick Calibre: Automatic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985 Functions: Hours, minutes, cylindrical flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, (Day, date, month, year), moon phases, Night & Day Frequency: 28,800 vph Power Reserve: 45 hours Dial: Brown Caseback: Sapphire crystal Water resistance: 5 bar Strap: Brown alligator with small scale alligator lining, double folding buckle Reference: Q5242461
A symbol of harmony, power and metamorphosis, the Chinese dragon embodies the balance between strength and wisdom. This mythical inspiration has been brought to life by the brand through the alchemy of materials, craftsmanship and art. To celebrate this cornerstone of Chinese culture, Jaquet Droz is unveiling the Tourbillon Skelet Red Gold – Dragon Mask, a unique piece combining the skills of master craftsmen and watchmakers to set this legendary heritage within the beating of time.
The dragon seems to emerge from the dial, as if plucked straight from a legend. With its long horns, curled whiskers and sharp fangs, its face comes to life, capturing the light in every detail. Carved and engraved by hand in an alloy of white, yellow and red gold, each curve has been sculpted with extreme precision. The age-old creature finds refuge here, in an 18-karat red gold case, measuring 41 mm in diameter and 13 mm thick. The full force of the myth is captured in the perfect lines of this timepiece, ready to transmit its power to the wearer.
Every detail of the mask has been meticulously crafted by hand: from the engraving and sculpture to the micro-painting and gem-setting… this piece took nearly a year to design and it is the fruit of more than 200 hours of work involving all of Jaquet Droz’s master craftsmen and watchmakers. Carved from a solid block of gold, engraved on both sides and then applied to a decorated background, the mask appears to float over the movement.
Jaquet Droz also used a specific cut of precious stones, including cabochon-cut emeralds, in a bezel setting. Blending into the material, they accentuate its power and maximise the intensity of the dragon’s gaze. This newly-acquired cutting-edge expertise opens up a whole new field of expression, further enhancing the creative autonomy of the Jaquet Droz workshops.
“Bringing together so much expertise to create this unique piece was a real feat that posed challenges both on a human and a technical level. This art watch is the result of a collective adventure, in which every detail has been studied, debated and refined, to reach a level of execution and harmony that pushed our limits even further.” Project Manager, Jaquet Droz
The self-winding skeleton movement houses a flying tourbillon positioned at 12 o’clock, whose movement blends into the floral lines engraved on the back of the watch. Offering an exceptional eight-day power reserve, this Manufacture calibre combines spectacular aesthetics with mechanical excellence. The sapphire back reveals the oscillating weight engraved with the words “ONE MORE”, a nod from Jaquet Droz to its collector, extending the narrative universe to the heart of the movement.
The result of a close dialogue between a collector and Jaquet Droz’s master craftsmen, this piece was custom-made, with every detail studied, refined and brought to its ultimate expression. An art watch that fully embodies Jaquet Droz’s philosophy of the Unique: bringing an intimate vision to life to create a work that truly reflects its owner, where art and watchmaking merge until we no longer know where the craftsmanship ends and time begins.
At Jaquet Droz, the dragon does not breathe fire, but beauty, power and sublimity. And in the hollow of a dial, a legend is crafted, bespoke and unique; a new alliance forged between heritage and innovation.
“Create your own. As unique as you are”
NUMERUS CLAUSUS: Unique piece
REFERENCE: J0135230091
DESCRIPTION
18-karat white, yellow and red gold dial, hand-engraved and hand-painted, set with emerald cabochons
18-karat red gold case.
Self-winding skeleton tourbillon movement.
Power reserve of 8 days.
Diameter 41 mm.
MOVEMENT
Jaquet Droz 2625 SQ, self-winding skeleton tourbillon movement, black treatment, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, single barrel, 18-karat red gold oscillating weight
Customized engraving on the oscillating weight
INDICATIONS
Off-centered hours and minutes at 6 o’clock
Tourbillon frame and off-centered seconds at 12 o’clock
JEWELING
30 jewels
POWER RESERVE
8 days
FREQUENCY
21,600 v.p.h.
CASE
18-karat red gold case
Diameter 41 mm
Height 13.36 mm
WATER RESISTANCE
Up to 3 bar (30 metres)
DIAL
18-karat white, yellow and red gold dial, hand-engraved and hand-painted, set with emerald cabochons
HANDS
18-karat red gold
STRAP
Rubber strap
CLASP
18-karat red gold folding clasp
TOTAL CARAT WEIGHT/DIAMONDS/COLORED STONES
0.20 carats / Emerald
THE FIRST MINUTE REPEATER IN THE OVERSEAS COLLECTION
HAUTE HORLOGERIE PROWESS
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface is the outcome of a long process to meet the challenge of integrating a grand complication mechanism into an elegant case. In addition to a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar, this movement incorporates a minute repeater, a first in the collection. Generally speaking, water resistance is difficult to achieve with minute repeater calibres due to the sliding mechanism in the case-side that activates the repeater. The challenge with this model was to ensure the water-resistance of the Overseas case, while adapting its lines to Calibre 2755 QP. This required a year and a half of research and development and involved a complete redesign of the caseback to create space for the minute repeater mechanism while maintaining the slender curves characteristic of Overseas watches. With a diameter of 44.5 mm and a height of 13.1 mm, the proportions of this new Overseas case deftly balance the collection’s adventurous character with a spirit of elegance.
AN EMBLEMATIC CALIBRE
One of Vacheron Constantin’s emblematic movements, Calibre 2755 QP benefits from developments made for the Tour de l’Île watch presented in 2005 and brings together three major horological complications. With its 602 components contained within a diameter of 33.30 mm, it incorporates a perpetual calendar with date, day, month and leap-year cycle indications. In addition to this calendar mechanism, which requires no correction before 2100 – a non-leap secular year – there is a minute repeater.
To govern the cadence of the repeater mechanism, which strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on demand, the Maison’s watchmakers developed a centripetal regulator, a proprietary device that allows the hammers to be struck at the precise intervals required to obtain the correct musical sequences. Totally silent, this regulator features two centrifugal weights that act as a motor brake on the axis of rotation, smoothing the flow of energy released by the repeater spring.
In keeping with Vacheron Constantin’s attention to detail, particular attention has been paid to the aesthetics of this governing device, which is visible through the sapphire caseback. An arc-shaped bar secures the regulator; crafted in 750/1000 gold its rounded form requires a full day of meticulous hand- polishing. Beneath it, the circular-grained inertia weights are engraved with the initials of Jean-Marc Vacheron, who founded the Maison in 1755.
AN EMBLEMATIC CALIBRE
The same high standards were applied to the finishing of the tourbillon bridges, which involved rounding the convex profile as well as tapering it towards the fixing screws, then hand- polishing each bridge to a perfect shine. Their architecture was also reviewed, particularly on the reverse side, where it has been made more open and visually lighter. This allows full appreciation of the tourbillon’s ballet, which is enhanced by the relatively slow tempo of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz). Commensurate with the complexity of Calibre 2755 QP, the movement finishes also include mirror-polished repeater hammers, bevelled and satin-brushed bridges, circular satin-brushed wheels, and bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève.
A SPORTY AND CONTEMPORARY AESTHETIC
With its grade 5 titanium case and integrated bracelet, the Overseas Grand Complication Openface watch remains true to the spirit of the collection. Its sporty, contemporary character is enhanced by the transparency of the sapphire dial, which reveals the beauty and complexity of the movement. Applied to the transparent sapphire, the 18-carat white gold hour-markers appear to be floating in space, amplifying the airy aesthetic.
To enhance legibility and create a dynamic contrast with the grey and silver tones of the movement components, the circles surrounding each of the time and calendar indications are treated with a blue metallised finish. The surface of each metallised circle is then engraved in white with the various indications – dates, days, months, years and minutes.
Viewed through the sapphire dial the avant-garde spirit of the watch is highlighted by the contrast between the anthracite grey hue of the NAC galvanic treatment on the bridges and the silvery tone of the rhodium-plated wheels. The mix of finishes on the case and bracelet amplifies the contemporary aesthetic with a visually captivating play of light and reflections. On the bezel, sandblasting combines with polishing and satin-brushing – a new signature for titanium-cased models in the Overseas collection. Like the other pieces in the collection, the model’s titanium bracelet, fitted with a comfort system, is interchangeable without tools and two additional straps – one in blue alligator, one in blue rubber – are offered with the watch.
TECHNICAL DATA
OVERSEAS GRAND COMPLICATION OPENFACE
Reference: 6510V/110T-128C
Calibre: 2755 QP
Developed and manufactured by V acheron Constantin
Mechanical manual-winding
33.9 mm diameter, 7.9 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18’000 vibrations/hour)
602 components
45 jewels
NAC finishing
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications: Hours and minutes
Small seconds on tourbillon
Minute repeater
Perpetual calendar (day, date, month, leap year)
Tourbillon
Power reserve on the back of the watch
Case: Titanium grade 5
44.5 mm diameter, 13.1 mm height
T ransparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water resistant tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial: Sapphire crystal with blue display counters
18K white gold (750/1000) hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with blue
Super-Luminova®
18K white gold (750/1000) counter hands
Strap: Titanium grade 5, satin-finished and polished, interchangeable and with comfort-adjustment
system; T wo additional straps, in blue alligator and in blue rubber
Buckle: Titanium grade 5 folding clasp
One additional titanium grade 5 folding clasp, interchangeable and compatible with both
additional straps
Frédérique Constant has unveiled a new edition of its Classic Tourbillon Manufacture, a direct descendant of its 2023 predecessors. The timepiece is being released in a limited edition of 150 featuring a 39-millimetre steel case with a green dial and matching strap. Its beating heart is the self-winding FC-980 manufacture movement, wholly developed and assembled in-house. The new model embodies a captivating blend of traditional Fine Watchmaking and unashamed modernity, with a green sunburst dial adding a dynamic and contemporary touch.
In 2023, the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture already featured a striking new look with an innovative case and styling; the case was crafted from solid 18-carat pink gold, since adopted by Frederique Constant for all its Manufacture pieces. Originally, 150 timepieces were produced and since that edition, only a very few have been manufactured on rare occasions, including one sporting a meteorite dial in a platinum case and another with an aventurine dial and a white gold case. Precious metals are of course not the only option; limited editions featuring steel cases are highly sought-after by collectors too, as other leading Geneva watchmaking houses can also attest.
Many such steel watches seem to retail for as much as gold editions, but that can’t be said of this new release, situated in exactly the same price range as its 2023 forebears sporting a silvered blue dial. The pricing decision reflects Frederique Constant’s unwavering aim: delivering affordable Swiss Made watchmaking luxury complete with top-level finishings.
The green dial limited edition can boast all these assets – and aims higher still. The historic tourbillon often comes in highly classical garb, with a white, grey or black dial, but this piece has daringly adopted a deep palm green dial with a radiant sunburst finish. It features two hand-polished central hands gliding over faceted hour markers; seconds are marked out directly by the tourbillon, where Frederique Constant has placed a slim central hand on the upper bridge – as discreetly as possible so as not to obscure the view of the tourbillon, with a glimpse of its innermost workings.
The Classic Manufacture’s existing 39-millimetre case has been retained, combined here with a topstitched alligator deployment strap matching the dial. The understated, classic style of the case is further enhanced by the traditional onion crown harking back to the days of pocket watches, as well as a transparent caseback through which the FC-980 calibre can be admired.
As is customary in Geneva watchmaking, its finishings include bevelling, beading and circular graining, along with straight-grained flanks and mirror polishing elsewhere. These traditional features are by no means incompatible with a contemporary touch, either: the manufacture tourbillon’s anchor and escapement wheel are made from silicon, a state-of-the-art material that Frederique Constant has used since 2008. Silicon is highly resistant to everyday magnetic fields such as those generated by computers, speakers and smartphones, and can withstand temperature fluctuations too.
In line with the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture tradition, each piece will bear an individual number on the tourbillon itself as well as on its case.
A watch from the Traditionnelle collection entirely paved with more than 300 baguette-cut diamonds.
A technical tourbillon timepiece powered by ultra-thin Calibre 2160, enhanced by the splendour of its invisible setting.
A creation that embodies all the watchmaking mastery and decorative expertise of the Maison’s cherished artistic crafts.
Vacheron Constantin has enhanced the Traditionnelle collection with a tourbillon High Jewellery model powered by ultra-thin Calibre 2160. This technical timepiece is enhanced by exceptional mastery in the art of invisible gemsetting. All case components are paved with baguette-cut diamonds, from lugs to caseband, from bezel to clasp and from the crown to the dial with its radiant motif. This Traditionnelle tourbillon High Jewellery timepiece reflects Vacheron Constantin’s own approach to High watchmaking.
High Watchmaking meets High Jewellery
A Vacheron Constantin watch cannot be technical without being precious. Over the course of the Maison’s more than two and a half centuries of existence, this attitude has constantly stimulated its creativity. Born at the height of the Age of Enlightenment, this philosophy specific to Vacheron Constantin was nurtured in particular by La Fabrique, a unique organisation encompassing more than 5,000 watchmaking and goldsmithing professionals in 18th-century Geneva. Today, Vacheron Constantin continues to perpetuate this legacy through timepieces whose aesthetics stem from research that is equally thorough in exploring decorative arts as in ensuring smooth mechanical operation.
With the Traditionnelle tourbillon High Jewellery watch, this approach finds an exceptional new interpretation. Entirely paved with baguette-cut diamonds, this timepiece offers a remarkable symbiosis between expertise in artistic crafts and mastery of horological complications. The tourbillon regulator equipping its ultra-thin movement serves as a visual starting point for the gemsetting adorning the dial and which blossoms like a sparkling corolla. This composition is complemented by a sloping inner bezel ring and bezel that are likewise gemset, as indeed are the crown, lugs, caseband and clasp.
The magic of invisible setting
For this latest watch joining the collection, invisible setting was chosen to highlight the distinctive structure of its ornamentation. Invented in the early 20th century, this technique consists of setting perfectly calibrated stones so that the metal prongs serving as visible fastening points vanish, hence its name. Instead, master jewellers fashion T-shaped rails (channels), while the gems are cut with a groove on each side of the culet – the bottom facet of the stone. The gems are then slid one by one between the channels to form diamond paving with no visible joints.
For the setting to be perfect, the gems must be cut with absolute precision. This is a major challenge for this watch, whose radiating setting plane requires multiple calibrations of the baguette-cut diamonds that are increasingly larger the further away they are from the tourbillon. The same difficulty is found on the lugs with their trapeze-shaped baguette-cut diamonds, as well as on the caseband that was the object of specific research and cutting to enable vertical positioning of the gems. The crown is also entirely invisible-set on both the edge and front, where the diamonds have been specifically cut to fit between the polished flanks of the Maltese cross. In all, this Traditionnelle tourbillon High Jewellery is adorned with more than 300 diamonds (~27.11 cts), resulting from exceptional gemsetting craftsmanship.
An ultra-thin tourbillon calibre
Paired with a dark grey alligator leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching, this watch measures 41 mm in diameter, making it suitable for all wrists, not least because it is so slim (12.46 mm). The latter is made possible by Calibre 2160, the first self-winding tourbillon movement developed by the Maison. In addition to the elegance of its openworked carriage shaped like the Manufacture’s Maltese cross emblem, Calibre 2160 is distinguished by its extreme slenderness: ultra-thin movement featuring a total of 188 components measures just 5.65 mm thick and has an 80-hour power reserve. The steady beating of its mechanism operating at the moderate frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) can be admired through the sapphire caseback, notably thanks to the peripheral 18K gold oscillating weight featuring a Clous de Paris hobnail guilloché pattern and serving to reduce the overall thickness.
The same quest for perfection has been applied to the finishing of the movement, with a circular-grained mainplate on the dial side and hand-bevelled bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève on the back. The gear train wheels are circular satin-finished, while the screws are chamfered and polished. Inspired by the Maison’s emblem, the tourbillon with its carriage bearing the small seconds indicated by a blackened screw features exceptional finishing lavished on all its components. One example is rounding off, which consists in filing the tourbillon bar to achieve a conical and semi-cylindrical shape, entirely hand-crafted to meet the criteria required by Vacheron Constantin.
Traditionnelle Tourbillon High Jewellery
Reference 6057T/000G-H067
Calibre
2160
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
Peripheral rotor
30.4 mm (13½’’’) diameter, 5.65 mm thick
Approximately 80 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour)
188 components
30 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon carriage
Tourbillon
Case
18K white gold case set with 144 baguette-cut diamonds on sides, lugs and bezel
041 mm diameter, 12.46 mm thick
Crown set with 16 baguette-cut diamonds
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial
18K white gold set with 158 baguette-cut diamonds
18K white gold hours & minutes hands
Black screw on tourbillon carriage for seconds indication
Strap
Dark grey Mississippiensis alligator with alligator inner shell, saddle-finish, large square scales
Buckle
18K white gold folding clasp, set with 16 baguette-cut diamonds
Total diamond-setting
334 diamonds, for a total weight of approx. 27.11 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)
TAG Heuer and Senna Brand celebrate Ayrton Senna with an exclusive limited edition tourbillon timepiece.
The extraordinary life and career of legendary Formula 1 driver Ayrton Senna will be brought to life in the new Netflix series Senna premiering on November 29, 2024. As part of this commemoration, Swiss luxury timekeeper TAG Heuer, in collaboration with the Senna Brand, proudly launches the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna, a timepiece dedicated to Senna’s legendary prowess and honoring the 30th anniversary of his legacy.
A Prowess to Relive on the Screen
Considered as one of the best drivers of all time, Ayrton Senna embodies the quest for excellence and performance. Thirty years after his passing, he continues to be one of the most iconic and recognized drivers in the world of motor racing. Fast, brilliant, and fearless, the Brazilian driver never stopped pushing himself beyond the limit.
As part of the celebration moment, Ayrton Senna is portrayed in the first fiction series ever. The six-episode Netflix series, starring TAG Heuer ambassador Gabriel Leone as Senna, offers a profound exploration of his journey from his early days in Brazil to his rise as one of Formula 1’s greatest drivers. Developed and produced with the support of Senna’s family, the series captures his biggest driving achievements, personal struggles, and relationships, concluding with the tragic accident at the San Marino Grand Prix.
The series also features heritage watches such as the TAG Heuer Senna S/EL Link Chronograph S25.706C, as part of the character’s wardrobe highlighting the continued relevance of Senna’s style and to ensure historical accuracy.
In conjunction with the series, TAG Heuer, in collaboration with the Senna Brand, proudly announces the release of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna, a dedication to the accomplishment of the driver whose name keeps on living.
The Story Between a Watch Manufacturer and a Driver
The collaboration between TAG Heuer and Ayrton Senna started in 1988, and, over the course of his career, the long-standing TAG Heuer ambassador redefined the word “drive” by breaking many records. At the time, the Brazilian dominated Formula 1, becoming World Champion in 1988, 1989 and 1991.
Reflecting on this history, TAG Heuer has since introduced numerous references that celebrate Senna’s legacy, including two chronograph tourbillons releases within the Carrera collection in 2018 and 2019. These timepieces have captured the hearts of collectors and motorsport enthusiasts alike.
To pay tribute to Ayrton’s talent, TAG Heuer continues its quest to create the perfect watch, one that the legendary driver would have loved to wear on his wrist. With its bold design, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna perfectly illustrates TAG Heuer’s continued admiration of the illustrious driver and celebrates his lasting influence on the sport.
Designed with meticulous attention to detail, the watch incorporates elements that reflect Senna’s spirit and achievements. The carbon bezel, inscribed with “Senna” and a tachymeter scale reaching up to 400 km/h, symbolizes the speed and precision that defined Senna’s career. The nine o’clock subdial prominently features Senna’s branding, a subtle yet powerful nod to the legendary driver, while the counter appears in a bold yellow, akin to the one of the Senna logo.
The skeleton dial, reworked with multiple finishes and incorporating a checkered flag motif, represents Senna’s victorious spirit. The case, crafted from grade-2 titanium, contains sharp, dynamic lugs with vertical brushing and sandblasted rims, creating a three-dimensional architectural profile that speaks to the sophistication and elegance of high-end watchmaking.
Turning the watch over, the 44mm caseback reveals an iconic image of Senna with his helmet, provided by the Senna Brand. This image, coupled with limited edition markings denoting only 500 pieces, underscores the exclusivity and high demand for this exceptional timepiece. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna also includes a high-quality blue rubber strap, ensuring both durability and comfort, making it a fitting compliment to Senna’s relentless pursuit of perfection.
This limited edition is expected to captivate collectors and enthusiasts worldwide, not only for its aesthetic and technical prowess but also for its deep connection to Senna’s legacy.
The launch event of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna is honoring Ayrton Senna while celebrating his enduring legacy in the world of motorsport in his beloved Brazil. Actor and TAG Heuer ambassador Gabriel Leone wore the limited edition watch, adding a genuine touch to this heartfelt tribute. “Ayrton Senna has marked us all at TAG Heuer and has marked the world of motorsports, both on the track and in life. With the launch of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna, we celebrate his enduring spirit and inspire future generations of champions just as he inspired us. This timepiece embodies the passion and precision that defined his remarkable journey.” said Antoine Pin, CEO of TAG Heuer.
“We are incredibly proud to continue our collaboration with TAG Heuer in creating exceptional timepieces like the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna. It is a privilege to see Ayrton’s legacy endure, and to have TAG Heuer as a partner in this journey. Ayrton would be deeply honored by our efforts, and we hope this tribute not only celebrates his remarkable life but also inspires future generations to strive for greatness.” said Bianca Senna, CEO of Senna Brand.
TAG Heuer and the Senna Brand honor a legend by blending the art of watchmaking with the spirit of racing. This tribute celebrates Ayrton Senna’s remarkable achievements and inspires future champions to reach new heights. With TAG Heuer, fans will have even more opportunities to connect with Senna’s story, enhancing their experience of the Netflix series and the launch of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Senna
CBU5081.FT6274
Dial
Skeleton dial: black plated fine brushed, with a grained black center decor
Blue flange flange with 60 second / minute scale & green outline
2 counters:
3 o’clock: blue skeleton “azuré” minute chronograph counter; yellow lacquered
openworked hand
9 o’clock: blue skeleton “azuré” hour chronograph counter; yellow lacquered openworked hand; Senna “S” logo in yellow
Rhodium plated facetted, polished applied indexes, with black center decor
Rhodium plated facetted, polished hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova®
Yellow lacquered central hand
Rhodium plated polished TAG HEUER applied logo
“CARRERA” & “SWISS MADE” printed
Case
44mm diameter
Grade-2 titanium fine brushed and sandblasted case
Forged carbon tachymeter fixed bezel with “S” & “SENNA” logo in yellow
Beveled, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Fine brushed, polished grade-5 titanium crown at 3 o’clock, green lacquered ring
Fine brushed, polished grade-5 titanium round pushbutton at 2 o’clock
Fine brushed, polished grade-5 titanium round pushbutton at 4 o’clock
Circular brushed grade-2 titanium screwed sapphire caseback with a “SENNA” illustration
Water resistance: 100 meters
Bracelet
Blue integrated rubber strap with fine brushed and sandblasted decor
Grade-2 titanium folding clasp with double safety pushbuttons; TAG Heuer shield
The latest creation from HUBLOT and celebrated Japanese contemporary artist Takashi Murakami is finally here – and it may well be the duo’s most eye-catching and exceptional creation to date. Introducing the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow,
reimagining the artist’s iconic smiling flower as a sapphire sculpture set with colorful gemstones and fitted with HUBLOT’s first central tourbillon movement. A limited edition of only 20 pieces.
Transcending the preconceived notions of contemporary art, Takashi Murakami created his own art movement dubbed “Superflat”, extending from fine arts such as painting, sculptures and installations to more commercial media such as fashion and animation. Blurring the line between high and low arts, Murakami melds the aesthetic of the Japanese artistic tradition with contemporary art and culture. Of all his works, the most iconic is the smiling flower, which HUBLOT has sought to bring into a watchmaking context through several collaborative pieces.
The MP-15 is the symbol of a friendship in full bloom, born from a shared passion for breaking down boundaries and going beyond expectations. HUBLOT first began working with Murakami in 2021, with a shared drive of breaking down boundaries and going beyond expectations with their respective artforms. After his eponymous Classic Fusion models and a series of NFT artworks paired with unique pieces, HUBLOT and Takashi Murakami took their partnership to the next level with the unveiling of the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon for the Only Watch 2023 charity auction. Reimagining one of Murakami’s most emblematic motifs, the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon took on the “smiling flower” and transfigured it from Murakami’s signature aesthetic into a wearable sculpture that seamlessly merges contemporary art, avant-garde watchmaking and exceptional gem-setting; the latter of which HUBLOT has pioneered with unexpected techniques and a mastering of the perfect rainbow effect. This requires carefully selecting gemstones that work together in a perfect transition of tones.
Meticulously crafted from a block of Sapphire crystal, the modestly sized 42mm smiling flower case features twelve petals. True to Murakami’s highly chromatic palette, the twelve petals feature polished Titanium inlays that are set with 444 colored gemstones in total, including brilliant-cut Rubies, Pink Sapphires, Amethysts, Blue Sapphires, Blue Topazes, Tsavorites and Yellow or Orange Sapphires. These stones are grouped together so that each petal is in a different vibrant color, just like the original Murakami smiling flower.
More than just an incredible feat of gem-setting however, the MP-15 features a truly revolutionary mechanical caliber. At the heart of the HUB9015 calibre is the central flying tourbillon, which can be admired through the domed sapphire crystal engraved with two twinkling eyes and a smiling mouth. A first for HUBLOT, the central tourbillon is an exceedingly rare type of complication that demands advanced engineering and reimagining how a mechanical movement is built. In the MP-15, it is animated by means of a manual-winding caliber that boasts an exceptional power reserve of 120 hours – enough to run for nearly a whole week. To make the winding experience as effortless as possible, HUBLOT has created a special rechargeable stylus that’s placed on the crown, which winds the twin barrels in 100 revolutions.
With this work of sculptural, wearable art, the notion of innovative and original watchmaking nonetheless takes center-stage. Surrounding the MP-15’s central flying tourbillon and keeping its view unobstructed, the hours and minutes are indicated by two hand tips that revolve around its periphery. The hands are actually positioned beneath the tourbillon cage, with just their tips bent upwards and outwards thanks to an intricate co-axial construction. Making the reading of time effortless and intuitive, the opening features a flange ring set with twelve baton hour markers, each continuing the color of the petal. The visual intrigue of the MP-15 is further
enhanced by the fact that most of the movement’s components have been skeletonized, which appear as if floating in a vacuum. A true feat of superlative watchmaking.
The finishing touch comes in the form of the strap, which is transparent and decorated with Takashi Murakami’s signature flower motif. Like the case, the deployant buckle is crafted in Sapphire crystal and Titanium.
An artistic endeavor that’s bound to garner the appreciation of contemporary art lovers for its audacity and discerning watch aficionados for its complexity, the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire Rainbow is a limited edition of 20 pieces, available to HUBLOT boutiques and authorized retailers around the world upon request.
This timepiece recalls the feast of the New Fire (Fuego Nuevo), a ritual that marked the rebirth of the sun and the renewal of time cycles, symbolised by the Piedra del Sol, the Sun Stone, one of the most emblematic works of Aztec art.
For the FUEGO NUEVO, the engravings on the Piedra del Sol have been reinterpreted on an ancient meteorite, reasserting the powerful connection between cosmos and the passage of time in an especially mesmerising manner.
“I have always been fascinated by ancient civilisations, especially Mesoamerican cultures and their very advanced astronomical knowledge. They saw the cosmos as more than just a collection of stars but also as a great symbol of life’s eternal cycles.
To reproduce this vision on the FUEGO NUEVO, I opted the Muonionalusta meteorite as a backdrop and laser engraving as the technique to reproduce the Aztec Sun Stone. As for the mechanics, the flying tourbillon was the natural choice, because its rotations reminded me of the constant renewal of time and infinity.” – Jean-Marie Schaller, Owner and Creative Director
FUEGO NUEVO: The Sun Stone times the “New Fire”
The Piedra del Sol is a monumental sculpture of Aztec civilisation. Carved during the reign of Emperor Axayacatl, it was created to commemorate the Festival of the New Fire in 1479. This sacred ritual, celebrated at the end of each 52-year cycle, marked the rebirth of the sun and the perpetuation of the cosmic cycles that gave rhythm to Aztec life.
This giant disc, which measures 3.6 metres in diameter and weighs 24 tonnes, is carved out of a block of basaltic olivine lava. It is now on display at Mexico City’s National Museum of Anthropology, where its magical aura draws crowds of amazed visitors.
Ancient meteorite and technology combined
In homage to the Piedra del Sol, the FUEGO NUEVO dial is made of a disc cut from one of the oldest meteorites discovered on Earth, the Muonionalusta. Formed 4.5 billion years ago, this meteorite reveals those famous, remarkable, geometric Widmanstätten patterns created inside the rock by millions of years of space travel.
This cosmic gem has been transformed into a work of art using modern technology. Producing the dial’s decoration required enormous precision, which could only be delivered by a laser with ultra-short pulses in the femtosecond range. It took a whopping 9,800 lines of sketches to reproduce the many references to Aztec cosmogony. Then, to add depth and relief, the dial features three levels. A ring of aventurine adds contrast around the base, giving the whole work an air of mystery. The 0.5-millimetre meteorite disc is engraved at two depths, namely 0.2 and 0.1 millimetres. The impressive three-dimensional dial perfectly represents the intersection of history, art and technology.
An horological star: the flying tourbillon
The FUEGO NUEVO is equipped with the LM135 caliber designed and developed by Louis Moinet in collaboration with Concepto. The mechanism includes a flying tourbillon with off-centre cage at six o’clock, which defies gravity in a striking and captivating way. Its hand-wound mechanism is equipped with a double barrel. This particular system, known as “volte face”, enables the two barrels to be arranged serially head to tail and therefore to discharge simultaneously, producing a 96-hour power reserve.
A noble case
This exceptional work of art is delicately framed by a 40 mm-diameter red-gold case with well-defined, flowing curves. The sapphire dome, a true feat of high-tech, reveals the fascinating details of the Sun Stone engraving. The openworked lugs perfectly underscore the integration of the bracelet.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
FUEGO NUEVO Unique piece
CASE
Material 18k red gold, grade 5 titanium (inner case)
Diameter 40.7 mm
DIAL & HANDS
Dial Laser-engraved Muonionalusta meteorite
Aventurine
Hands Hours, minutes: facetted and skeletonised, with luminescent material (SLN)
MOVEMENT
Functions Hours, minutes
Complication Flying tourbillon
Type Manual winding, double spring barrel
Oscillations 28,800 vibrations per hour
Jewels 26
Power reserve 96 hours
Water resistance 30 meters
Montblanc is honouring the 100th anniversary of its Meisterstück writing instrument with a remarkable tribute to Enheduanna, the world’s earliest known author, through the new Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Skeleton. This extraordinary timepiece encapsulates the historical significance of writing and its evolution from ancient Mesopotamia.
The Dawn of Writing: Cuneiform Script
The earliest known writing system, the cuneiform script, originated in Mesopotamia around 3200 B.C.E. Developed by the Sumerians, it involved pressing a reed stylus into damp clay tablets to create wedge-shaped symbols. Over its 3000-year history, Cuneiform was used to document various languages, covering topics from temple activities and business transactions to myths, epics, and personal correspondence.
Enheduanna: The First Known Author
Enheduanna, a high priestess who lived around 2300 B.C.E., was the daughter of Sargon of Akkad, the founder of the Akkadian Empire. Appointed as the high priestess of the moon god Nanna in Ur, she wrote religious hymns and poetry dedicated to the goddess Inanna. Her works are the earliest examples of first-person writing, and she is believed to be the first author to claim authorship of her texts. Among her notable works is “The Exaltation of Inanna,” a poignant poem written during her exile that became a staple in scribal schools for centuries.
A Centennial Celebration with Montblanc
To mark the centenary of the Meisterstück, Montblanc collaborated with Catherine Mittermayer, Professor of Mesopotamian Studies at the University of Geneva, to create a tribute to Enheduanna. The result is the Limited Edition Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Skeleton, a timepiece that reflects the artistry and historical context of Enheduanna’s era.
A Timepiece Rich in Historical Detail
This limited edition watch, restricted to just 10 pieces, features a 44.80mm, 18-karat yellow gold case with an onyx dial engraved with an extract from Enheduanna’s Temple Hymns. The Montblanc name is rendered in Sumerian symbols, incorporating the words for “white” and “mountain.”
The 18-karat yellow gold case band bears the closing words of the hymn, attributing the text to Enheduanna: “The compiler of the tablets was Enheduanna. My king, something has been created that no one has created before.” An engraving of Enheduanna herself sits below the off-centred dial, positioned above the Exo-Tourbillon, with the crescent moon symbolizing her association with the moon god Nanna.
Additional historical elements include a depiction of the Royal Game of Ur behind a bull representation, engravings of Sumerian numbers, and the number 10 signifying the limited edition. These details create a rich tapestry of Mesopotamian culture and history.
The Exo-Tourbillon Movement
Montblanc’s master watchmakers in Villeret spent three years developing the patented Suspended Exo Tourbillon complication. This innovation positions the large balance wheel outside the tourbillon’s rotating cage, making it more visible and enhancing its aesthetic appeal. The unique architecture of the Exo Tourbillon saves energy, as the cage is lighter without the balance wheel, ensuring superior performance.
The hand-wound Manufacture German silver skeleton movement, calibre MB M16.69, is decorated in Villeret and features an anthracite ruthenium treatment, blending historical and contemporary elements.
Displaying the Montblanc Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Enheduanna
Each of the 10 pieces comes in a special presentation case modelled after the Great Ziggurat of Ur. The exterior, covered in stone, is etched with extracts from Enheduanna’s Temple Hymns. The case can be used as a display stand, allowing the owner to showcase the watch in their home or office.
A Tribute to Writing and Art
The Montblanc Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Enheduanna celebrates the written word’s history and its profound connection to Montblanc. This limited-edition timepiece pays homage to Enheduanna, the pioneering woman who elevated writing to an art form, and serves as a fitting tribute for the 100th anniversary of the Meisterstück.
Movement: Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M18.69
Type of movement: Manufacture hand-finished manually wound movement
One-minute patented Suspended Exo Tourbillon Skeleton
Dimensions: Diameter = 41.95mm; height = 6.45mm
Number of components: 188
Number of rubies: 19
Power Reserve: Approx. 50 hours
Balance Screw balance, diameter = 14.5 mm; moment of inertia = 59 mgcm²
Frequency: 18,800 A/h (2.5 Hz)
Hairspring: Hairspring with Phillips terminal curve
Dial view
Plate Open-worked anthracite ruthenium-coated German-silver, stretched stripes on both sides, hand-chamfered edges
Displays Off-centered hours and minutes, small second at 6 o’clock Patented Exo Tourbillon (one revolution per minute to indicate the seconds) with one arm-bridge at 6 o’clock, mirror-polished Exo Tourbillon cage with the number 10 written in Sumerian
Caseback view
Bridges Open-worked anthracite ruthenium-coated German-silver, stretched stripes on both sides, hand-chamfered edges
Going-train Gold-coated, circular grained, chamfered, diamond hubs on both sides
Barrel Mirror-polished open-worked ratchet, circular-graining inside the mirror-polished winding pawl shaped with the Minerva arrow
Habillage
Case 18K yellow gold, polished case
Crystal Domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating.
Back 18K yellow gold sapphire crystal case back with simple anti-reflective coating
Dimensions Diameter = 44.8mm; height = 15.1mm
Water resistance 3 bar (30m)
Crown 18K yellow gold with Montblanc diamond
Dial Dial in Onyx stone on a 18k white gold base, engraved with an extract from a Sumerian text by Enheduanna, Montblanc written in Sumerian at the end, hand-engraved 18K yellow gold ornaments and 18K yellow gold hands.
Wristband Black calf leather strap with interchangeability system and a 18K yellow gold triple folding clasp.
Certified by the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500H
INSPIRED BY THE HISTORICAL TACT WATCH MADE BY LEROY IN 1810, THE MAISON HAS CREATED THE UNIQUE GRAND COMPLICATION PIECE “L.LEROY MINUTE REPEATER FLYING TOURBILLON”, AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT THE PRESTIGIOUS CELLINI BOUTIQUE IN NEW YORK.
Founded in Paris in 1785 under Charles Leroy, himself the son of watchmaker, L.Leroy has written some of the finest chapters in the history of French watchmaking and chronometry, developing a wealth of technical and inventive treasures for over two centuries.
This human, artistic and industrial adventure is marked by illustrious names including Marie Antoinette, Proust, Matisse, Napoleon, Queen Victoria, Roosevelt, Chopin, Nobel, Bugatti, to mention but a few owners of a watch signed Leroy.
Faithful to its extraordinary and inimitable watchmaking heritage, L.Leroy has created the stunning unique piece “Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon” inspired by a rare ancient pendant tact watch made by Leroy around 1810 for the Prince Emil Maximilian Leopold August of Hesse and which is now part of the prestigious collection of the Patek Philippe Museum.
At that period, when electricity was unknown and luminous hands were not yet invented, this type of watch allowed the time to be read, even in the dark, by touching the hand that moved in the direction of the twelve diamonds on the periphery of the case, acting as indices.
In the 21st century, L.Leroy reinterprets this exquisite timepiece. A challenge that sees the Maison blend, in perfect harmony, its rich historical legacy with the demands of the contemporary era.
Today, the “L.Leroy Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon”, a striking and sophisticated wristwatch which appeals to eyes and ears, enriches the watchmaking selection of Cellini in New York, one of the world’s leading stores that devotes great attention to exclusive high-end watch brands.
A UNIQUE DESIGN AND A SUPERLATIVE MECHANICS
A watch with a very complex construction, both in terms of style and mechanics, which required the highly qualified skills of watchmaking technicians for the development and assembly of its manual winding movement, comprising a flying tourbillon and the minute repeater mechanism. Not forgetting the master engraver and the specialists in top-level finishing.
The case
The case, measuring 43 mm in diameter, is crafted from two metals. The case body, lugs, case back, repeater slide and crown are made of grade 5 titanium while the bezel and cover on the case back are made of PD210 18K palladium white gold.
Completely hand-engraved with a precious floral motif, an operation far from easy on titanium parts given its hardness, it took no less than 120 hours of work by highly skilled master engravers. This delicate art allows these superlative decorations to stand out against the metal, playing with the light.
The transparent case back is protected by the 18K white gold cover which boasts a magnificent engraving that evokes another horological masterpiece from the Maison L.Leroy: the “Leroy 01”.
Awarded the Grand Prix at the Paris World Exhibition in 1900, it’s an impressive pocket watch with 975 components, 27 precise and functional indications including 17 relating directly to the measurement of time, exceptional decorations and engravings. It was considered the most complicated watch in the world until 1989.
The “L.Leroy Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon” is complemented by an integrated aquamarine strap in soft calfskin. It fastens to the wrist with a round folding clasp in 18K white gold, bearing the brand’s interlaced double “L” logo. In perfect harmony with the case, it is also engraved by hand.
An eye-catching dial and a stunning calibre
The “L.Leroy Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon” features a unique and out-of-the-ordinary time display for a model from the 2000s, but legitimised by the historical piece from which it takes its inspiration. It has a rotating dial boasting a superlative flinqué soleil decoration with a translucent aquamarine varnish finish. This pattern emanates near a perimeter point, where the rhodium-plated, arrow-shaped, hand-engraved hour hand is fixed and extends its rays around the circumference of the display.
When the dial rotates, the arrow-shaped hand points towards the diamond markers set on the precious hand-engraved white gold bezel and indicates the hour. There are 24 diamonds totalling 1.35 carats, the larger ones mark the hours while the smaller ones indicate the half-hour.
To know the precise time, the minute repeater comes into action. This sophisticated mechanism, reputed to be the queen of complications, is developed on a hand-wound movement, which is also equipped with a flying tourbillon that improves its chronometric performance.
Once the repeater slide, positioned between 8:30 and 9:30, is activated, the time will be audible acoustically thanks to the finely tuned chiming mechanism. The design of the case has been meticulously studied and developed to amplify the different tones of the sound indicating the hours, quarters and minutes emitted by the two gongs struck by the two hammers, visible on the case back.
The powerful “engine” which drives this work of art is a hand-wound in-house calibre, consisting of 321 components, beating at a frequency of 3Hz/ 21.600 vibrations per hour. It comprises the minute repeater mechanism on two gongs, a single barrel guaranteeing 90-hour power reserve and the flying tourbillon which performs a complete rotation in one minute.
Lovers of fine watchmaking mechanics will be able to admire this amazing movement with its single bridge, finely hand-engraved with hand-bevelled edges, by opening the 18K white gold cover on the case back using the discreet push-button at 4 o’clock.
The “L.Leroy Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon” once again testifies to the brand’s technical expertise and its mastery of the art of decoration. A true joy for the lucky collector who, will enrich his collection with a unique and exclusive masterpiece of time.
Movement:
• Manufacture manual-winding movement, minute repeater, flying tourbillon
• Number of components: 321
• Fitting diameter: 30 mm
• Thickness: 8.89 mm
• Number of jewels: 29
• Vibrations per hour: 21.600 / Frequency: 3 Hz
• Variable inertia balance wheel with flat balance-spring
• Swiss lever escapement
• Single barrel
• Unique bridge with engraved floral decoration, hand-bevelled edges, rhodium-plated
• Power reserve: 90-hour
• Minute repeater on two gongs struck by two hammers: hours and quarters hammer on the right / Minutes and quarters hammer on the left (view from the case back)
Tourbillon cage :
– diameter: 13,60 mm
– 76 parts
– complete rotation in 1 minute
Functions:
• Hours and half-hour indication
• Minute-repeater on two gongs for audible hour, quarter and minute indication
Case:
• Materials:
– case body, case back, repeater slide and crown in polished grade 5 titanium
– back cover, bezel and buckle in 18K palladium white gold (PD210)
• Diameter: 43 mm
• Thickness: 13,95mm, including back cover
• Engraved repeater slide between 8:30 and 9:30
• Push-button of the back cover: at 4:00 o’clock
• Decorations and inscriptions:
– Case, bezel and back cover fully hand-engraved
– Back cover: hand-engraved motif on the outside, engraved L.Leroy logo on the inside
– Inscription “Unique piece” on the case back
• Diamond-set bezel: 24 diamonds, quality G +VS, totalling 1.35 carats
• Water resistance: 3 ATM
• Antireflective sapphire crystal glass on dial and case back
Dial:
• Rotating dial with flinqué soleil decoration, translucent aquamarine varnish finish
• Fixed arrow-shaped rhodium plated hour hand, hand-engraved
• Diamond hour markers on the bezel: 12 for the hour indication and 12 smaller ones for the half-hour indication
Strap:
• Aquamarine calf leather strap matching the dial colour
• Round-shaped open worked folding buckle featuring the brand’s interlaced double “L” logo in 18K palladium white gold (PD210), hand-engraved.
PEQUIGNET unveils, at a preview showing during Watches and Wonders 2024, its first flying tourbillon, a true extraordinary horological feat. Designed for enthusiasts of French high watchmaking, it will be manufactured in a limited series of 24 pieces.
Invented in the 19th century, the tourbillon aimed to overcome the lack of precision in mechanical movements caused by the vertical position of pocket watches placed in the gentlemen’s jackets.
This horological “grail” goes on captivating enthusiasts, collectors, and watchmakers. While the tourbillon is one of the most beautiful and spectacular complications we could find in renowned Swiss watchmaking names, it is extremely rare within French brands.
For the first time in its history, PEQUIGNET once again asserts its French specificity by introducing a tourbillon designed in its own Manufacture. All its components are manufactured within an 80-kilometer radius and assembled in its workshops in Morteau.
THE ULTIMATE HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATION
The launch of a tourbillon is a milestone in the development of a Manufacture. This significant step legitimizes and confirms the reputation of a Maison. With the Royale Tourbillon, PEQUIGNET joins the elite watchmakers.
This model is equipped with the fourth PEQUIGNET “in-house movement”. Its code name EPM04. Based on the prestigious Calibre Royal®’s construction, the name Calibre Royal® Tourbillon logically appeared. This rarity will only be produced in 24 pieces to celebrate its birth year: 2024. PEQUIGNET imagined a tourbillon in its most refined, sophisticated, and horological version: a flying tourbillon!
The flying tourbillon is a complex regulating mechanism. Traditionally placed at 6 o’clock, the flying tourbillon is special as it is mounted without any upper bridge, giving the impression of wearing a weightless tourbillon cage on the wrist, visually unobstructed. A nearly hypnotic wonder to observe. For this horological marvel, this 1-minute tourbillon (rotating in sixty seconds) features a concentric balance wheel in the cage. The cage itself is made of titanium, a particularly delicate metal to machine, especially for such a small component.
Another technical and aesthetic achievement, this flying tourbillon is visible not only on the dial side but also on the bridge side!Developed on the designing of the Calibre Royal® and beating at 3Hz, it retains its main characteristics, including its extraordinary power reserve of at least 88 hours, possible thanks to its large barrel. A power reserve that comfortably exceeds the “weekend-proof” standards required by connoisseurs nowadays.
A WATCHMAKING MASTERPIECE
Naturally, this high horology movement on display is hand-decorated in accordance with the highest professional norms. The discerning eye will notice high-flying finishes: beveling, Côtes de Genève, circular graining, circling, sandblasting, and drawing. An outstanding work!
This exceptional watch features a 44 mm diameter 5N rose gold case with a thickness of 11.70 mm. It has a water resistance of 5 ATM. This flying tourbillon watch boasts a stunning midnight blue «wave» effect dial inspiring serenity, almost zen, that seems to emanate from the tourbillon situated at 6 o’clock and spreading upwards where the PEQUIGNET logo modestly takes pride of place at 12 o’clock with no other indication.
The polished indices appliques are rose gold 5N tinted, just like the faceted baton hour and minute hands using any available light source for a perfect readability of this very pure dial, in any circumstance.
This exceptional “made in France” Royale Tourbillon watch is mounted on a sumptuous blue alligator strap that complements its dial. It is combined with a tongue buckle made of the same metal as the case. For a rare watch, a specific box: made of lacquered wood and specially designed for this first PEQUIGNET Tourbillon, echoing the midnight blue and wave shape of the dial.
THE ART AND SCIENCE OF TIME
Pequignet embodies a French vision of time: the time we dare to dedicate to ourselves, the time we draw away from. Pequignet is designed for independent spirits, those who seek to assert their freedom, emancipate themselves from conventions, and stand out without showing off. Pequignet aims to offer an uninhibited Haute Horlogerie experience in its own distinctive way.
PEQUIGNET, FRENCH WATCHMAKING EXCELLENCE
As a French high-end watchmaking manufacture, Pequignet holds the label of “Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant” (Living Heritage Company). The conception and production of its watches and movements take place in its workshops located in Morteau, at the heart of the French Jura. Founded in 1973 by Émile Péquignet, this watchmaking house has always created timepieces that break free from conventional codes and norms. Pequignet stands out as one of the few independent watchmaking houses.
In 2010, Pequignet evolved into a manufacture, welcoming highly skilled watch engineers. The Manufacture designs exceptional calibres, incorporating the latest technologies that bring life to its innovative and elegant watch creations. In 2011, Pequignet won fame by creating its own movement: the Calibre Royal®, the sole high-end French movement. It is designed and assembled by the Pequignet Manufacture. A manual version of the Calibre Royal® was introduced in 2018, followed by a third movement, the Calibre Initial®, in 2021.
In 2021, Pequignet joined Enowe Excellence, an organization founded by Hugues Souparis, a former industrialist and entrepreneur committed to supporting French excellence in craftsmanship. He became the president of the Manufacture.
ROYALE TOURBILLON 9035475 AB
CASE
Diameter: 44 mm
5N Rose Gold 18K
Weight of gold: 54.94 g
Polish finishing of the case with domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Crown with embossed « Fleur-de-Lys » logo
DIAL
Textured blue, drop of water
Rose (5N) gold plated stamped hands
5N colour index
Tourbillon position at 6.00 Diamond-coatedtourbillonopening,5Ncolour
MOVEMENT®
Calibre Royal Tourbillon
Diameter: 34.5 mm / Thickness: 6.11 mm 88-hour power reserve
23 jewels
Flying tourbillon, with balance concentric to the cage, visible from the dial and from the movement
Titanium cage, 157 pieces, 1 revolution per minute Balance with solid gold compensating screws, frequency of 21,600 alt/hour (3Hz), large balance with important inertia: 12mg/cm2 Hand decoration: Bevelling, Côtes de Genève, Circular graining, Circling, Sandblasting, Drawing
WATER RESISTANCE: 5 ATM
THICKNESS: 11.70 mm
LUG-WIDTH: 22 mm
CASEBACK: Secured by 6 screws, sapphire opening on the movement
STRAP: Blue alligator strap with tone-on-tone stitching
CLASP: Polished gold ardillon buckle (5N, 18K) with Fleur-de-Lys logo
Weight of gold: 7.6 g
EUROPE RETAIL PRICE INCL. TAX: 65000€
AVAILABLE ON
September 2024
Limited edition of 24 pieces
Availability
PEQUIGNET Boutique Paris60 rue de Rennes, 75006 Paris – France
PEQUIGNET Boutique Besançon3 rue Moncey, 25000 Besançon – France
The new “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” features a vibrant hue inspired by the lights of a futuristic city.
ONE & TWO OPENWORKED COLLECTION
The undisputed identity signature of the ONE & TWO OPENWORKED collection is the original dial, decorated with ever-changing finishes and details, which enhance the excellence and charm of the horological art. Each creation boasts an appealing three dimensional display that endows it with a modern style. The sophisticated openworked structure, evoking the imaginary architecture of elevated intersections in a futuristic city, gives the multi-layered dial an even more dynamic look. In addition, the unique geometry and arrangement of the bridges create fascinating and unique aesthetic effects. Each timepiece in the ONE & TWO OPENWORKED collection allows the wearer to dive into its powerful “engine” without taking it off the wrist.
All this beauty is encased in the classic round “Piccadilly” case, a reminder of the brand’s British origins.
Revamped in 2017 by renowned designer Eric Giroud, it now features a smoother and more sinuous
shape than the original.
All ONE & TWO OPENWORKED collections are available in 38- and 42-mm case sizes.
The Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet: inspiration
The focus of the new “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet”, both from a structural and conceptual point of view, is the Tourbillon complication, whose cage containing the regulating organ and rotating on its own axis is able to offset the negative effects of the earth’s gravity by optimising timekeeping precision. This device, patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, is a little like allowing the watch
to escape from the earth’s gravitational field, placing it almost outside the atmosphere and the orbit ofour planet, in the sidereal space.
The “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” invites the imagination to enter a metaverse city of futuristic architecture illuminated by rays of light and fluorescent colours. Among the vibrant, bright tones, the choice of ultra-violet makes the dial’s grid of this latest creation stand out. This specific, mysterious and fascinating shade surrounds and highlights the main components of the movement, such as the flying tourbillon, the off-centre micro-rotor, the power reserve indicator and the barrel, which stand out against the rhodium-plated and microbeaded black plate. It abstracts this horological masterpiece from the ordinary and elevates it to the universe of heavenly bodies.
A UNIQUE AND FUTURISTIC STYLE
The case
The Piccadilly case of the “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” is crafted from grade 5 titanium. Its flat, horizontally brushed case band, recessed in relation to the polished, domed bezel and case back, gives it a sober, modern aesthetics that is immediately reminiscent of Speake Marin. The flared, grooved crown and the geometric lugs, which hold the strap attachment bars, secured by two screws, complete the harmonious appearance.
Water-resistant to 3 ATM, it is fitted with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal protecting the dial and the see-through case back revealing the bienfacture of the exquisite calibre that powers this creation. Available in 38 mm and 42 mm cases, the timepiece is complemented by a black rubber strap fastened to the wrist with a titanium pin buckle.
A dynamic and striking 3D watch face
Beneath the anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the performance of the movement is at work. As in a prestigious theatre production, where the scenography is meticulously planned, the display becomes the stage on which the main actors play their roles.
The satin-brushed and rhodium-plated dial is multilayered, with carved microbeaded pockets which create a refined grid, with microbeaded profiles angled at 45° in a vibrant ultra-violet hue obtained through positive PDV coating.
The skilful mix of finishes, combined with the choice of a bright colour such as Ultra-Violet, allows for extraordinary light effects that emphasise the SMA05 manufacture calibre. The most striking feature at first glance is the tourbillon cage, which is characterised by the emblematic motif of the mirror-polished topping tool, the symbol of the Geneva-based Maison. This is followed by other visually intriguing components such as the rhodium-plated barrel drum, symmetrical to the complication, embellished with concentric circles and engraved “One & Two Openworked – Flying Tourbillon”. Mirrored are the oscillating weight and power reserve, whose luminescent arrow indicates the elapsed power reserve when it reaches the red dot on the semi-arc. The flange is finished in a circular pattern and has a minute track with light grey markers. These are highlighted at 5-minute intervals by Super-LumiNova emitting blue glow. The heart-shaped hands are also luminescent and clearly visible in all lighting conditions. The rhodium-plated, microbeaded bridges on the barrel and micro-rotor, with their chamfered edges, add further depth to the display.
The end result defines this dial as a true work of art in which creative talent and technical mastery come together to express Speake Marin’s bold and passionate vision of haute horlogerie, where innovation meets savoir-faire.
The uniqueness of the mechanical movement signed by Speake Marin
The SMA05 calibre powering the “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet”, is part of the collection of mechanical movements developed in-house by Le Cercle Des Horlogers, the Manufacture of Speake Marin. With an automatic winding, it operates at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and offers a 72-hour power reserve from a single barrel. It is distinguished by its tourbillon mechanism at
1.30 o’clock: an unusual position that stands out as unique in the watchmaking panorama due to the difficulties of avoiding the time-setting module and now a distinctive and recognised feature of the Maison.
It is a flying tourbillon, fixed at only one point, which requires an extremely precise construction to guarantee the perfect balance of the entire device. A construction that allows the non-stop dance of the regulating organ on the dial side to be admired to the full, and also enhances its motion: the tourbillon appears to float in mid-air and performs a complete rotation on its own axis in one minute.
If the tourbillon is an eye-catcher, it is also thanks to its harmonious and well-balanced layout, in which another iconic element of Speake Marin’s mechanical art plays a starring role: the off-centre micro-rotor, perfectly integrated into the volume of the calibre. Crafted from rhodium-plated tungsten, it is positioned symmetrically in relation to the power reserve.
On the rear, the bevelled black rhodium-plated bridges, with their 1.5 mm Côtes de Genève finish, embrace the PVD-coated central bridge, which shows the fascinating motion of the movements’ gears.
Since its first launch in 2020, the Openworked Tourbillon has seen several versions, always produced in limited quantities and immediately becoming the object of desire of the most demanding collectors. The emphasis on the Ultra-Violet shade which highlights this superlative movement, endows this unprecedented interpretation of the Manufacture’s tourbillon with a new personality.
The “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” is a limited production of only 5 pieces with a 42 mm case and an additional 4 pieces measuring 38 mm in diameter.
Speake Marin, Geneva-based independent brand, was founded in 2002 by an English watchmaker and was immediately received with enthusiasm by watch aficionados and collectors. In 2012, the company was acquired by Mme Christelle Rosnoblet, a French entrepreneur with a passion for art and watchmaking, who is now its CEO and President.
The entry of Mme Rosnoblet injects new energy into Speake Marin. Two pillars mark the Maison’s present and future: the in-house manufacture of its calibres and the stylistic renewal according to contemporary trends, without forgetting the main distinctive codes that have been identifying the brand since its establishment.
In 2014, Mme Rosnoblet invested in the prestigious watchmaking atelier ‘Le Cercle des Horlogers’ in La Chaux-de-Fonds, which is Speake Marin’s internal workshop. Later on, Mme Rosnoblet becomes the majority shareholder. It is here that the Maison’s timepieces are designed, produced, tested, decorated and assembled. Thanks to its independence, Speake Marin enjoys the utmost creative freedom which, combined with the expertise of highly qualified master watchmakers, allows it to create unique and inimitable watches featuring a bold and daring design.
To date, Speake Marin has developed 11 in-house calibres and has a production of around 600 timepieces per year.
In-house manufacture self-winding movement, calibre SMA05, with fully integrated micro-rotor,
60-second flying tourbillon
Total components : 290
Tourbillon cage : 62 components (mobile) + 1 fixed component, 0,56gr
Casing diameter: 34 mm
Thickness: 7.15 mm (without hands)
Frequency: 3 Hz / 21.600 vibrations per hour
Jewels: 33
Screw balance-wheel
Swiss lever escapement
Power reserve: 72-hour (when fully wound)
Black rhodium-plated and microbeaded mainplate
Bridges: black rhodium-plated with bevelled edges, Côtes de Genève with 1.5mm stripes, central openworked bridge with black PVD coating, 5N gold-plated engraving Tungsten micro-rotor with laser-engraved concentric circle pattern
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds on the tourbillon cage at 1:30, power reserve at 7:30
Case
“Piccadilly” design, grade 5 polished-brushed titanium
Diameter: 38 mm and 42 mm
Thickness: 12.35 mm
Grooved flared crown with engraved logo
Screw-down case back
Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on dial and case back
Water-resistance: 3 ATM
Dial
Multilayer satin-finished and rhodium-plated dial, grid with positive ultra-violet PVD coating, microbeaded bevelled edges, rhodium-plated microbeaded pockets
Luminescent rhodium-plated heart-shaped hands with blue glow
Minutes flange with light grey Super-LumiNova indices with blue lighting at 5-minutes intervals
Tourbillon cage at 1:30: with topping tool-shaped bridge, rhodium-plated, mirror-polished, with bevelled profiles
Engraved barrel with the inscription “One & Two Openworked – Flying Tourbillon” at 10:00
Satin finish oscillating weight with laser-engraved circles
Power reserve at 7:30, triangular pointer with Super-LumiNova emitting blue glow, light grey and bright red dots for elapsed autonomy indication.
Strap
Black rubber strap with grade 5 titanium pin buckle embellished the Maison’s logo.
Designed to offer an unparalleled visual and mechanical experience, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton features a stunning minimalist aesthetic and perfect symmetry. One of the most striking features of this model is its transparency. True to its minimalist philosophy, H. Moser & Cie. has stripped away all unnecessary material to better showcase and enhance the piece, laying bare the stark beauty of its mechanism. At the heart of this exceptional, entirely skeletonised watch lies a one-minute flying tourbillon with a double hairspring that appears to float weightlessly. A bold stylistic statement, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton is quite simply a manifesto for ingenuity. A creation endowed with refined elegance and spectacular aesthetics, in a Streamliner case measuring 40 mm in diameter.
In 2022, H. Moser & Cie. presented the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and made a remarkable entry into the skeleton watch segment, while defining its own codes for the skeleton aesthetic. Using the same signatures, the Manufacture is launching its second skeleton model, this time part of the Streamliner collection. By removing as much material as possible, H. Moser & Cie. has sculpted every detail of the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton with precision, resulting in a creation with a stark, refined aesthetic. The skeletonisation process has produced an extremely refined, luminous piece, highly transparent with incredible depth that reveals all the beauty of the watch mechanism, usually hidden from view. The barrel, which has also been hollowed out, offers a view of the spring, allowing the wearer to check that it is wound correctly.
Right through the watch you can see the rotor, which has also been openworked. Particular attention has been paid to symmetry, ensuring the proportions are perfectly balanced. The minimalist finishes are modern, adorning the anthracite main plate and bridges with drawn strokes combined with precise bevelling.
Featuring a 40.0-mm steel cushion case water-resistant to 12 ATM, the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton offers extraordinary ergonomics thanks to the design which includes a fully integrated steel bracelet with no lugs on the case. The case middle features recessed and satin-finished forms on the sides, with alternating polished and brushed surfaces. It is topped by a subtly domed sapphire crystal, echoed by the see-through case back.
Extending these curves, the integrated steel bracelet is elegantly arced to follow the line of the wrist. Highly complex in construction, this bracelet has extremely fluid lines based on organic forms. Pointing to gold-plated indices, the three-dimensional hour and minute hands made from two sections feature inserts with Globolight®, an innovative ceramic-based material containing Super-LumiNova®.
Seemingly floating in the middle of a void, a one-minute flying tourbillon positioned at six o’clock comes to life to power this exceptional timepiece. A marvel of ingenuity, this automatic HMC 814 skeleton movement is equipped with a double hairspring designed and produced in-house by H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company
Precision Engineering AG. Thanks to this pair of matched hairsprings, the movement of the point of gravity on each spring when it expands is corrected and the effect of friction reduced, significantly improving accuracy and isochronism in continual pursuit of perfection.
The Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton model is designed for demanding, visionary watch lovers who appreciate the harmonious union of form and function. H. Moser & Cie.’s own and unique take on Haute Horlogerie.
H. MOSER & CIE.
H. Moser & Cie. was created by Heinrich Moser in 1828. Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, it currently employs more than 90 people, has developed 18 in-house calibres to date and produces around 3,000 watches per annum. Through its sister company Precision Engineering AG (PEAG), H. Moser & Cie. manufactures parts such as regulating organs and balance-springs, which are used for its own production as well as to supply its partner companies. Independent company incorporated into Moser Watch Holding in 2012, Precision Engineering AG specialises in watch components for escapements, from their initial design to the production of a quality product ready to be integrated into the watch movement it must regulate. H. Moser & Cie. is honoured to have a Moser family member with the company as Honorary Chairman and President of the Heinrich and Henri Moser Foundation. The aim of the Moser Foundation, created by one of Heinrich Moser’s descendants, is to keep the family history alive and seek out antique pieces for the Moser Museum, located in Charlottenfels Manor, Heinrich Moser’s family home. With its substantial watchmaking expertise and highly acclaimed experience in the sector, MELB Holding holds shares in H. Moser & Cie., Hautlence and Agenhor SA. MELB Holding is an independent family group, based in the heart ofthe legendary Vallée de Joux.
Cyrus Geneve introduces the new “Etheral” Collection with an exceptional creation: The “Twin Orbital Tourbillon”, which combines the manufacture’s best skills and know-how in a daring and innovative kinematics.
The year 2024 marks a new milestone in the history of CYRUS Genève, independent Swiss brand founded in 2010, with its manufacture in Le Locle, under the direction of the talented master watchmaker Jean-François Mojon. On the occasion of the Watches and Wonders event in Geneva, CYRUS Genève is pleased topresent the brand new “ETHERAL” collection, featuring interesting watchmaking complications and a round case, an absolute first for the Maison.
After more than six years of work, the project launched in 2018 has become a reality. The Maison is proud to unveil the “Twin Orbital Tourbillon”, the first member of the ETHERAL family which successfully combines an ultramodern style with avant-garde mechanics. Both have been conceived at the same time to achieve the ultimate horological level and a well-balanced, appealing design.
The ETHERAL line embodies the pinnacle of horological artistry, representing a harmonious blend of watchmaking tradition and innovation crafted with emphasis on futuristic aesthetics, captivating the essence of its name through light, almost floating appearance. It draws inspiration from natural and cosmic beauty, reflecting patterns, rhythms and elements found in nature and universe, suggesting a connection to the wider world and a broader perspective.
This latest collection is a testament to the ongoing quest for excellence through precision engineering, refined elegance and functional sophistication, with the utmost respect for the art of Swiss watchmaking.
With its extraordinary 3D moving dial, the “ETHERAL Twin Orbital Tourbillon” is a hymn to kinematics. As the hours pass, the jumping hours, the minute indication and the two flying tourbillons change position, keeping time perfectly readable always horizontally.
All this is made possible by the new hand-wound manufacture calibre CYR518-E with a double barrel guaranteeing a 72-hour power reserve, comprising no fewer than 510 components, including 63 jewels. This innovative and finely decorated movement also boasts three patent applications.
This creation will appeal the most discerning collectors who appreciate the fine interplay between art and science and are in search of an exclusive dream-watch. Its uniqueness is also underlined by the 18-piece limited edition.
The “ETHERAL Twin Orbital Tourbillon” is a true work of art, a masterpiece of horological craftsmanship that will write another important chapter in the brand’s history.
Kinematics: the undisputed protagonist of this unprecedented stylistic approach
CYRUS Genève welcomes its first-born with a round case framing a striking 3D design architecture that highlights the complexity of its exceptional hand-wound manufacture calibre CYR518-E, the subject of three patents pending.
Its style is reminiscent of some iconic elements of the brand’s timepieces such as the elongated lugs surrounding the functional twin crowns. The crown at 3 o’clock, with its slanted grooves, winds the watch and sets the time, while a pressure on the crown at 9 o’clock allows quick time setting (hours indication jumps one hour ahead). The case is crafted in polished-brushed 4N rose
gold combined with grade 5 titanium inserts.
44 mm in diameter (excluding crowns and inserts) and 16.3 mm in thickness, it is complemented by a slender bezel that allows a wider dial opening, enhancing the harmonious arrangement of the mechanical elements that define the timepiece’s functions.
The leading actors of the display are the jumping hour indication by means of two discs in the form of a truncated cone with an inclination angle of 18°, surmounted by a highly original triangular minute hand with curved arms and a luminescent tip, microbeaded with bevelled polished angles, and the two flying tourbillon which seem to be suspended in mid-air. Positioned on a frame, all these components perform a spectacular dance. The widest aperture of the display allows a perfect view of the jumping hour and the two flying tourbillon cages. The dial’s rotation has no effect on the reading of the time,
which is always horizontal, whatever the position of its components.
The watch face plays on the contrasting shades of black, anthracite and rose gold, with an array of exquisite finishes that enhance every detail. From the black PVD finish on the frame bridge, to the tetrahedral motifs, to the tourbillon cages’ gilded bridges reminiscent of the Cyrus logo with microbeaded and chamfered angles and perfectly match the style of the minute hand, to the bevelled-cut steel screw heads, some with a mirror- polished surface, others with an additional black PVD coating, nothing is left to chance. And the whole composition appears perfectly harmonious and well balanced to the eye!
With three patents pending, this new calibre demonstrates how watchmaking continues to surprise by pushing the boundaries of what is known.
Subject to three patent applications, this extraordinary new hand-wound movement, calibre CYR518-E, equipping the “ETHERAL Twin Orbital Tourbillon”, is the result of the undisputed talent of Jean-François Mojon and his team.
Comprising no fewer than 510 components, this powerful engine with a regulating organ operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz), guarantees a 72-hour power reserve thanks to its two barrels.
This new-generation calibre provides the jumping hours on two discs that move around the dial while maintaining horizontal readability, as well as the two flying tourbillons, inclined at an angle of 20°, both of which rotate clockwise and linked together in a manner known by the state of the art.
One of the three patents that has been filed for this unprecedented movement concerns the balancing mechanism of the frame, requiring the development of a new and innovative solution to ensure perfect operation in the event of shocks.
Positioning the centre of gravity on the pivoting axis is the first step in reducing the impact of shocks on the frame. This nullifies the effects of linear shocks. However, angular accelerations always affect the frame and therefore the working components. The frame drives a rotating mass in opposite directions.
When an impact or angular accelerations occurs, the dynamic effects are cancelled out because the inertias of the frame and the rotating mass are equal, and the direction of rotation is reversed.
The mechanism for displaying the time by combining the tens and units discs is the subject of the other two patent applications.
One refers to the hour indicator. The hours appear on two discs driven by a single triangular-toothed star wheel through a 12-jump kinematic system. In addition to its simplicity, this mechanism also has the advantage of preventing any de-indexing.
A second patent pending is for the instant drive mechanism with surprise for unrestricted counter-clockwise time adjustment. The purpose of this device is to make the hour jump without double jumping and without desynchronisation when the time is set anti-clockwise.
The complex geometry of the upper tourbillon cage, which can only be produced using the most high-performance machining workshops, bears the brand’s three-armed helix logo. It is adjusted by means of inertia blocks on the free-sprung balance wheel.
Much attention has been paid to the aesthetics of the rear of the watch which echoes the sophisticated layout of the dial emphasized by refined finishes such as frosted and microbeaded surfaces, bevelled and polished edges, polished mirror screws and much more.
As with other brand movements, such as the Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon, particular attention was focused to symmetry along the 12:00-9:00 axis.
It is impossible not to notice that the inclined power-reserve disc, whose apertures change from white to black and then to red when the power reserve runs out, follows the shape of the unusual minute hand. Or the frosted, black PVD-coated barrel ratchet wheels engraved with the Cyrus logo.
The anti-reflective sapphire crystal case back, sealed with 8 titanium customised screws, enables to admire the many details and the array of decorations which confirm, once again, the highest level of mastery of Cyrus Genève.
Strap
The “ETHERAL Twin Orbital Tourbillon” comes with an elegant black crocodile leather strap, hand-stitched and fastened to the wrist with a 4N rose gold pin buckle with grade 5 titanium inserts. Its design is new and matches the style of the case to perfection.
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Movement
• In-house manufactured hand-wound movement, calibre CYR518-E
• Dimensions: 38.6 mm Ø 12.95 mm thickness
• Number of parts of the complete movement: 510
• Two parallel flying tourbillons inclined at an angle of 20°, clockwise rotation of the two
cages on frame, complete rotation in one minute
• Tourbillon cages weight: 0.42 gr each
• Number of jewels: 63
• Frequency: 3 Hz
• Vibrations per hour: 21,600
• Power reserve: 72 hours, via a triangular 4N gold plated hand with white tip, rotating discs
which change colour from white to black and red when the power reserve is exhausted,
on a microbeaded black PVD coated disc.
• Two parallel barrels with frosted, black PVD-coated ratchet wheels engraved with the logo.
• Swiss lever escapement
• Free-sprung balance wheel with variable inertia
• Bridges: circled surface with black PVD coating, bevelled and polished edges, frosted
pockets in anthracite hue
• Steel screws with mirror-polished heads
Functions
• Jumping hours on two paralled discs inclined at an angle of 18°, one disc for the tens and
one for the units. Legibility always in horizontal position
• Minute indication via a triangular hand
• Power reserve display on the case back
Case
• NEW round case
• Material: 4N rose gold with grade 5 titanium inserts on lugs
• Diameter: 44 mm excluding the crowns and inserts
• Thickness: 16,3 mm
• Crown at 3 o’clock: in position 1, winds the movement; in position, 2 adjusts the time
• Crown at 9 o’clock: rapid hour increment by pressing the pusher
• Crown decoration: engraved oblique grooves, personalised with the Cyrus logo
• Sapphire crystal on dial: anti-reflective treatment on both sides
• Case back: porthole with anti-reflective sapphire crystal, fastened with 8 titanium screws
customised with the Cyrus logo
• Water resistant to 5 ATM (50 m. – 164 ft.)
Dial
• Rotating frame on which the hour/minute display indicators and two flying tourbillons are
mounted
• Openworked frame’s bridge with black PVD coating and tetrahedral motifs inserts in
anthracite shade
• Hour indication via two inclined rotating discs, one for tens and one for units, microbeaded
with black PVD finish, Arabic luminscents numerals emitting blue glow
• Rotating triangular minute hand with curved arms, microbeaded with 4N gold-plated
finish, bevelled angles, one tip with white Super-LumiNova with blue light emission
• Minute flange with cerlage, black PVD treatment, 4N gold-plated indices with Arabic
numeral at 5-minute intervals
• Two inclined flying tourbillon cages with helix-shaped bridges, microbeaded with 4N
gold-plated finish, bevelled angles, 4N gold-plated balance wheel. Both flying tourbillons
rotate clockwise
• Laser engraved microbeded and 4N gold-plated logo on a black PVD plate
• Mirror-polished nuts
• Steel screws with bevelled cut, mirror polished, with black PVD coating
Strap
• Black alligator leather strap, hand-stitched
• NEW design for the pin buckle in 4N rose gold with grade 5 titanium inserts, customised
with the Cyrus logo
Three limited-edition Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral timepieces represent a bold, free-spirited side of CFB. Just 18 examples of each watch have been created, combining high complications with extraordinary craftsmanship across three electrifying colorways. A CFB manufacture movement – one of its most technically accomplished, featuring two peripherally mounted complications – is set in an 18 K rose gold case and paired with an innovative laser-cut dial and matching gemstone-covered bezel, connecting watchmaking prowess with the jeweler’s art.
Available in distinctive blue, green, and purple finishes, these expressions of the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral represent the culmination of CFB’s recent exploration of color and embrace of contemporary style.
Pure Freedom of Expression
At a glance, these high-saturation aesthetics lend the pieces a unique energy, aimed at watch aficionados who want to express themselves, confidently and unapologetically, without compromising on technical mastery. As such, these striking watches represent 21st-century pioneering values and the pure freedom of expression epitomized by today’s urban lives. This look, feel, and spirit also fuels CFB’s own ongoing evolution, Exploring Time.
Inspired by the dynamic symbolism of blue skies in the city, the restorative feel of its green spaces, and its sense of unbridled optimism channeled by the color purple, the three hues of the newest versions of the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral are lent additional sophistication through the craftsmanship of the dial. Here, a laser-patterning technique has decorated the curved surface with repeat formations of miniature pyramids, creating a new and unique “three-dimensional guilloche” effect.
These patterns were galvanically refined before being coated in a semi-transparent colored lacquer which concentrates pigment in the “valleys” between each pyramid. The combination of these innovative processes results in an elaborate dégradé effect that makes the dial almost shimmer as it catches the light. In addition, the dial’s 11 indices mark out the hours with 0.6‑carat vvs baguette-cut diamonds, creating extra sparkle.
Joyful Spirit
Beyond the dial, attention is drawn to the eye-catching bezel. It contains 40 baguette-cut gemstones – either 5.1-carat sapphires, 4.7‑carat tsavorites or 3.5‑carat amethysts, depending on the model – each naturally occurring and colored. Hand-selected, these match the color of the dial – in itself a stunning feat of achievement and a stand-out design feature that adds to the watch’s exuberant feel.
A finely tailored hand-stitched strap, also color-matched to the dial and bezel, has been created from recycled PET, emphasizing CFB’s environmental awareness and the importance of integrating sustainable materials throughout its portfolio. Each timepiece is constructed within an 18 K rose gold case – a color chosen for its contemporary elegance – complemented by rose-gold-plated hands.
Intricacy and Accuracy
Beneath the surface of each watch is one of CFB’s most intricate movements: the CFB T3000 manufacture caliber, entirely designed, developed, and assembled in house. Launched in 2018, it is the first movement ever to combine a peripheral automatic winding system with a peripherally mounted floating tourbillon.
The winding system is driven by a bidirectional oscillating weight which provides enough mechanical energy to create a power reserve of 65 hours. The floating tourbillon – a CFB signature mechanism – is so-called as its peripheral mounting, neither mounted on the main plate nor connected with an overlying bridge, makes the complication appear to float in space.
Samir Merdanovic, CFB’s Chief Technology Officer, says: “The T3000 movement is one of CFB’s crowning glories. The peripheral mounting of two such intricate complications is astonishing from a mechanical perspective – and allows for an unobscured view of the movement through the case back – while the floating appearance of our tourbillon lends the piece an unbelievable, almost magical quality.”
The movement boasts outstanding accuracy. Comprising 189 individual parts, it includes a balance wheel regulated by eccentric screws, or masselottes, that oscillates at a frequency of 3 hertz, or 21,600 beats per hour, while the escapement is made from silicon, reducing friction, allowing the system to operate without lubrication, and increasing the power reserve. A further distinctive feature is the stop-seconds function, which allows for the rotation of the tourbillon cage to be stopped. This means the watch can be synchronized with a standard time and thus set to the second.
Exploring Time in our Dynamic Cities
The Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral perfectly encapsulates the essence of CFB’s Manero family of watches: a collection that exemplifies functionality, innovation, and contemporary design, created for highly discerning individuals Exploring Time in the world’s most dynamic urban centers. As such, it makes for a profoundly modern expression of CFB, a Swiss watchmaker with more than 135 years of heritage.
Facts and Figures: Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral
Reference number: 00.10928.03.54.11
Movement: Automatic, CFB T3000 manufacture caliber, diameter 36.5 mm, height 4.6 mm, 33 jewels, power reserve 65 hours
Functions: Floating tourbillon, stop second, hour, minute, small seconds
Case: 18 K rose gold, bezel set with 40 blue sapphires (baguette cut, 5.1 carat), domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back with sapphire crystal and anti-reflective coating, water-resistant to 3 bar (30 m), diameter 43.10 mm, height 11.57 mm
Dial: Blue with 3D guilloche pattern applied by laser, 11 diamonds (TW vvs, baguette cut, 0.6 carat)
Hands: Rose‑gold‑plated wedge hands
Strap: Blue textile strap with quick-release system, hand-stitched, 18 K rose gold pin lock folding clasp
Limitation: 18 pieces
Reference: 00.10928.03.94.11
Movement: Automatic, CFB T3000 manufacture caliber, diameter 36.5 mm, height 4.6 mm, 33 jewels, power reserve 65 hours
Functions: Floating tourbillon, stop second, hour, minute, small seconds
Case: 18 K rose gold, bezel set with 40 tsavorites (baguette cut, 4.7 carat), domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back with sapphire crystal and anti-reflective coating, water-resistant to 3 bar (30 m), diameter 43.10 mm, height 11.57 mm
Dial: Green with 3D guilloche pattern applied by laser, 11 diamonds (TW vvs, baguette cut, 0.6 carat)
Hands: Rose‑gold‑plated wedge hands
Strap: Green textile strap with quick-release system, hand-stitched, 18 K rose gold pin lock folding clasp
Limitation: 18 pieces
Reference: 00.10928.03.94.12
Movement: Automatic, CFB T3000 manufacture caliber, diameter 36.5 mm, height 4.6 mm, 33 jewels, power reserve 65 hours
Functions: Floating tourbillon, stop second, hour, minute, small seconds
Case: 18 K rose gold, bezel set with 40 amethysts (baguette cut, 3.5 carat), domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back with sapphire crystal and anti-reflective coating, water-resistant to 3 bar (30 m), diameter 43.10 mm, height 11.57 mm
Dial: Purple with 3D guilloche pattern applied by laser, 11 diamonds (TW vvs, baguette cut, 0.6 carat)
Hands: Rose‑gold‑plated wedge hands
Strap: Purple textile strap with quick-release system, hand-stitched, 18 K rose gold pin lock folding clasp
Limitation: 18 pieces
About Carl F. Bucherer
Carl F. Bucherer has been synonymous with excellence, innovation, and passion since 1888. The Swiss company has become an internationally renowned global brand with a presence throughout the world, characterized by its founder’s pioneering spirit and the cosmopolitan esprit of its home city of Lucerne.
The contemporary timepieces produced by Carl F. Bucherer combine unique design with the utmost precision and outstanding functionality. Committed to technical innovation, Carl F. Bucherer is the market leader in peripheral technology and has patented not only a peripheral winding system but also a floating tourbillon in a peripherally supported cage and a peripherally guided minute repeater regulator.
Rarely has a Tourbillon Skull gone to such lengths. Chic yet punk, perfectly controlled yet completely untamed… A skilful combination of extremes, executed by the master Artisans at Jaquet Droz. A unique piece crafted by hand in a bold pink set in an intense black ceramic case, it offers a vision of time suspended between life and death; a carpe diem encapsulated in a watch as audacious as it is elusive.
There will only ever be one piece, as it was born from the imagination of a single collector. Jaquet Droz brought this vision to life. The Tourbillon Skull Pink Pointillism is a meeting of minds. On the one side, a lover of fine watchmaking who has pushed the boundaries of tradition to create their own. On the other, a master watchmaker with expertise in this tradition dating back over 250 years, today offering a vision of Disruptive Legacy that straddles the centuries and the arts to produce unique pieces of great beauty.
At the heart of the piece lies the Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Skull movement, an original creation that is a skeletonised, atomised version of the famous figure-of-eight design. At the top is the tourbillon, mirroring the off-centred hours and minutes at 6 o’clock. Over the suspended skeleton architecture, a hand-sculpted and hand-painted 18-karat gold skull offers an unnerving interpretation of tempus fugit. The piece conveys the passage of time with the skull, the classic element of still life, combining it with the brightest and happiest of colours, a bold, striking pink.
What truly makes it stand out is a technique dear to the Jaquet Droz Artisans: pointillism. Almost all of the skull is covered with dots of paint – more than 3000 in total – individually applied by hand with brushes, some of which have only a single bristle. The shades of pink enhance the geometry of the calibre, a modern, structured design which highlights both the material and the movement, and the spaces between. With perfect harmony, this composition is set inside a ceramic case of an uncompromising and intense black, which reinforces the contrast with the pink of the skull and the textured rubber strap that accompanies it.
Studio 8 at Jaquet Droz was instrumental in allowing the collector and artisans to share a vision. This hub of cutting-edge technology in La Chaux-de-Fonds allows remote customers to be virtually present at each stage of the creation of their timepiece. From the brief to the 3D model, and for the validation of all the technical and aesthetic choices, Studio 8, with its integrated 4K cameras allowing digital immersion into the heart of the watch, allows the wildest of dreams to become reality. The Skull Pink Pointillism is no exception. The spirit gave rise to the method, the material dictated how it was used. Within the equally masculine and feminine 42-mm case beats the Jaquet Droz flying tourbillon self-winding movement with a power reserve of eight days. The screws and finishes are all custom-made, including the unique engraving on the oscillating weight. Once again, Jaquet Droz has been able to capture the imagination and personal preferences of a collector to manufacture an exceptional and unique custom piece which truly reflects them.
A UNIQUE PIECE AND HUBLOT’S FIRST CENTRAL FLYING TOURBILLON
“Only Watch was created in 2005 and our manufacture was founded just four years later, in 2009. We are both of the same generation. We have grown very quickly and have pushed the boundaries in our respective fields: Hublot in High Watchmaking and Only Watch in philanthropy. Whenever Only Watch founder Luc Pettavino needs us, we will be there. Hublot has never shirked its moral and social obligations, nor will it ever do so.”
Ricardo Guadalupe HUBLOT CEO
The central tourbillon could be interpreted as Hublot’s intention to put Haute Horlogerie back in the spotlight. Or, its round case might be seen to resemble a child’s drawing of a 12-petalled daisy, tipped with green as a sign of hope. Either way,the strength of the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch lies in the fact that everyone will see it as symbolic of what they value. It will blossom around as many values as there are colours, whether these are high-tech, exquisite, playful, unique, hypnotic… Haute Horlogerie meets Haute Joaillerie on this highly creative timepiece inspired by Takashi Murakami’s iconic smiling flower.
Floral composition is central to the work of Takashi Murakami. This Japanese artist has risen from humble origins to become one of the most sought-after artists in the world, and he has been a Friend of Hublot since 2020. These co-creations have always been produced in limited-edition series. This timepiece is even more limited – it is truly unique. Unique in its nature (only one piece has been created), but also in its construction. What sets the MP-15 apart from any other piece that the manufacture has ever created in its forty-plus years of experience, is its central tourbillon.
Hublot’s first central tourbillon
This central tourbillon represents the fusion of art and horological design. An idea that is echoed by Hublot’s dedication to Haute Horlogerie and by the world of Takashi Murakami. The idea is certainly to have Haute Horlogerie take centre stage physically, but not only that. The idea is also to show that the tourbillon – the beating heart of the watch – represents the heart of the person who buys it at the auction in aid of research against Duchenne’s disease, and also the hearts of those children fighting the disease.
Imagining this piece, Takashi Murakami explicitly requested the inclusion of a central tourbillon. A challenge in and of itself, this would become Hublot’s very first central tourbillon. This was a difficult challenge because, it becomes very complicated to indicate the hours and minutes which compete for the same central position. By accepting Takashi Murakami’s challenge, Hublot would have to make the right choices in order to integrate the aesthetic components of the central tourbillon to the technical requirements.
In this design, the cannon pinion and the hour wheel had to be pivoted around the tourbillon support by creating a co-axial construction. This was made possible thanks to the central flying tourbillon that is seemingly suspended in mid-air with two hands passing under its cage to indicate the hours and minutes. These hands gravitate towards 12 luminescent indices that echo the colours of the 2023 edition of the Hublot for Only Watch, as well as keeping the exact proportions required by the design so dear to Murakami, and which Hublot R&D had to follow to the letter.
Thanks to its two barrels, the manual movement offers a 150-hour power reserve (almost a whole week) – a very rare feature for such a construction. Mounted in series but on a single plane, these generously proportioned barrels can be admired through the case back which is made entirely from sapphire.
Superflat Floral Poetry
From the tourbillon and the indices to the petals, fans of Takashi Murakami’s colourful poetry will follow his rhythm on this MP-15, from the interior to the exterior, where 12 petals richly set with 444 gemstones give the piece a bright, joyful aesthetic. Like a real flower, these petals are angled towards the centre of the movement. The clear and bold demarcations of colour are representative of the 2023 Only Watch. The idea was not to offer a traditional rainbow gradient effect, but rather to play with the brightness of the shades and the brilliance of the gemstones, like a child playing with their crayons, creating a bright piece of Superflat Art for the wrist.
But that is not all: true to Murakami’s universe, under its domed sapphire crystal this MP-15 Only Watch reveals a fine laser engraving depicting a broad smile, complete with two smiling eyes. This colourful piece offers an escape into Takashi Murakami’s lively imagination, and the watch’s bright energy is an ode to the incredible power of a child’s wonder and their endless curiosity.
Collector’s item: unique calligraphy created by Takashi Murakami’s own hand
With its MP-15, Takashi Murakami has created the ultimate gift for anyone purchasing it. And who better to explain it than Takashi Murakami himself? “I decided to pick up calligraphy again. My mother used to love it and I took many classes in this art from the age of five to seventeen. I progressed to a very high level, attaining the 7th dan, which is equivalent to assistant instructor. When I went to art school, my calligraphy practice became more sporadic. But my mother brought it up whenever I spoke to her! So, I decided to return to it, working directly on my used coffee filter paper, which is a very good base for the ink. This enabled me to create unique calligraphy, “Time of Rainbow”, inspired by the unique watch I have designed with Hublot for Only Watch 2023.”
REFERENCE: MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Only Watch 915.JX.4802.RT.1198.OWM2 3
CASE: Polished sapphire crystal Polished titanium screws Diameter: 42 mm Thickness: 13.4 mm Water-resistant: 30 m
CASE BACK: Polished sapphire crystal
BEZEL: Polished stainless steel set with 444 coloured gemstones
DIAL: Black-plated appliques with Colored SuperLuminova
MOVEMENT: HUB9015 Manual winding central tourbillon. Frequency (Hz): 3 (21,600 Vib/h) Power reserve: Approx. 150 hours Number of components: 236 Jewels: 25
STRAP AND BUCKLE: Transparent decorated rubber with Takashi Murakami flower motif. Sapphire crystal and titanium deployant buckle
The Grönefeld family has an impressive history when it comes to watchmaking, with a legacy that dates back more than a century. The story began in 1912, thanks to Johan Grönefeld, and has since been passed down through three generations. Today, the horological brothers Bart and Tim Grönefeld are at the helm, and they are dedicated to creating beautiful timepieces with unique mechanisms that are truly world-class. Their commitment to excellence is evident in every watch they produce, and it is clear that the Grönefeld name is synonymous with quality and craftsmanship.
The Horological Brothers have yet again recently been recognised for their exceptional craftsmanship. The 1941 Grönograaf, a remarkable timepiece, has earned the Chronograph category Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève award, marking the duo’s third GPHG win. Their previous victories in 2014 and 2016 in the Tourbillon and Men’s Watch categories, respectively, attest to their unwavering commitment to excellence. The Grönefeld family’s legacy in watchmaking is genuinely remarkable, and their latest recognition is well-deserved.
1941 Grönograaf Stainless Steel
The Horological Brothers had never made a chronograph… until 2022. The GPHG award-winning 1941 Grönograaf is a classic chronograph, but consistent with the Grönefeld ethos, it incorporates several ingenious details. Discover – among other things – the ‘soft reset’ mechanism.
This 1941 Grönograaf is a wealth of knowledge of three generations of watchmaking. The professional journeys of both Horological Brothers and their extraordinary passion for horology are manifested in the Grönograaf.
Grönefeld will release 188 pieces of the 1941 Grönograaf in stainless steel.
1941 Grönograaf Tantalum
The ‘Premiere Edition’ of the 1941 Grönograaf is encased in rare metal tantalum and limited to just 25 pieces. However, all 25 pieces have been sold. Thereafter, Grönefeld released 188 pieces in stainless steel.
1969 DeltaWorks Rubber Clad Inserts
The Horological Brothers are really proud of their heritage and their home country, the Netherlands. They are known for their exceptional craftsmanship and attention to detail when it comes to watchmaking. Their latest creation, the 1969 DeltaWorks sports utility watch, is inspired by the Dutch ‘Delta Works’ and is designed to withstand the challenges of water ingress and shocks. The watch is a perfect blend of contemporary design and traditional horology. It comes in three different dial designs/colours, five different strap options, and the buyer has the choice of stainless steel inserts or colour-coordinated FKM rubber-clad inserts.
1941 Principia
The first automatically wound timepiece was conceived in Oldenzaal. The Principia is housed in Grönefeld’s 1941 case, which exudes elegance and grace. The Principia watch is stunning, available in red, white, or stainless steel with solid sterling silver dials.
1941 Principia Automatic Salmon Dial
The Grönefeld 1941 Principia Automatic come with an array of dials to choose from, crafted in solid sterling silver. In addition, the watch connoisseur selects from a cream lacquered dial with Roman numerals, a refreshing matt turquoise or light blue dial with polished applied baton hour markers. Alternatively, the company’s rhodium-plated or gold-plated salmon dials are also available.
The Principia is housed in the company’s 1941 case. Named after the year the father of Bart and Tim, Sjef Grönefeld was born, the 1941 case exudes grace from every angle. Available in red gold, white gold or stainless steel.
If you have recovered from yesterday’s exhilarating trip, be ready to be spun around some more because the show keeps getting surreal.
Without much ado, we shall begin our discovery of the exquisite novelties that await us.
BEAUREGARD – Dahlia White Gold – Fire Opal
The Maison’s founding collection Dahlia was unveiled in 2018 to immediate international recognition. The collection was selected for the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) alongside international powerhouse brands. This poetic floral creation with its Haute Joaillerie dial, animated by a central flying tourbillon and set with 600 flawless diamonds, is presented this year with a dial handmade in vibrant Fire opal. Sourced in the Mexican village of Magdalena, the world center for the 5 mines producing this fascinating gem, this flawless selection of rough stones is worked in a Montreal workshop to the highest standards of craftsmanship.
A delicate-looking yet sturdy timepiece on a lovely wrist has a calming effect on time.
CHOPARD – Alpine Eagle 41 XPS
Alpine Eagle extends its range with an ultra-thin model featuring a small seconds indication. The L.U.C 96.40-L movement measures 3.30mm only, enabling the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS to beat with chronometer-certified accuracy. Optimal proportions and a textured “Monte Rosa Pink” dial endow this model with undeniable elegance and distinction, while its finishes have earned it Poinçon de Genève recognition.
This one is sure to charm you and make you look at the world with Rosa tinted glasses.
FERDINAND BERTHOUD – FB 3SPC.1
The Chronomètre FB 3SPC.1, one of the two versions, is equipped with an 18-carat white gold case, 2N pale yellow gold movement components and an eggshell-coloured dial in sandblasted silver-toned brass.
Honouring the watchmaking traditions, the Classic Tourbillon is manufactured in gold in a limited quantity of 150 individually numbered watches. The tourbillon was first unveiled in 2008, 15 years ago, with a comma-shaped aperture in 2023, the comma has become a full circle.
The elegance of this timepiece is not to be missed.
HUBLOT – MP-13 TOURBILLON BI-AXIS RETROGRADE
Hublot is known for its disruptive, creative and technical Haute Horlogerie. Now writing a new chapter in the MP story with masterpieces that are collectors’ dreams. The new MP-13 is a unique 100% Hublot Manufacture complication with a double-axis Tourbillon and Dual Retrograde Display from the watchmaking of tomorrow.
Wrap your head and time around this one because this is one complicated yet beautiful timepiece.
HUBLOT –Square Bang Sapphire
Hublot unveils its interpretation of the square watch, a new geometry for the watchmaker. Inspired by the Maison’s iconic Big Bang, this Square Bang Unico adds a new pillar: ‘The Shaped Collection’ to sit alongside the Spirit of Big Bang.
A show-stopper is an apt word for this one. If the world were square, it would probably just fit in fine in this one. The transparent sapphire case makes this the watch to have.
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN – Ingenieur Automatic 40 Black
During the 70s, Gerald Genta created the Ingenieur SL, Reference 1832. Today’s Ingenieur Automatic 40 embodies his vision of bringing a stainless steel sporty watch with an integrated bracelet. While meeting the highest standards set for technology, ergonomics and finish, the watch also shows off daring aesthetics.
The black ‘grid’ will seamlessly intersect and network into your multiple parallel universes, real or imaginary.
LAURENT FERRIER – Square Micro-Rotor Evergreen
Always committed to creating timeless yet modern pieces that are functional yet can sway you with their aesthetic power, Laurent Ferrier now brings forth watches that are an eclectic mix of sophistication and elegance, the Square Micro-Rotor Evergreen and the Classic Micro-Rotor Evergreen.
Simplicity has immense power, check this watch out if you do not believe me.
ROLEX – New Cosmograph Daytona
Rolex has launched new age Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona updating its range. The case design is singular in nature and features its characteristic chronograph with refined details.
This model has the most unique colour combinations and this being Rolex it wears its crown high.
Gone are the days of monochrome watches and dull shades of time.
Today the watch scene is a burst with colours that can elevate the beauty of the timepiece. Brands are constantly looking to keep the watch enthusiasts enthralled and clamouring to outdo each other.
Every year there is a trend, yet sometimes, it is just a whiff of an era gone by that reappears in modern context and time.
Salmon Pink:
Is it the new go-to colour? Watch lovers and collectors have mentioned that the colour has been around since the thirties and yet it has made a reappearance lately, and quite vehemently too.
In 2019, when the popularity of salmon dials took off, the colour PANTONE 16-1546, “Living Coral”, was chosen as the year’s colour. The current dials in the market are all variations of the coral shade.
We put out the bait and some extraordinary timepieces caught it. Let us reel in some of the really warm catches that made it to our Salmon list.
A.Lange & Söhne:
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in 18-carat white gold houses a flyback chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon with a patented stop-seconds mechanism. Caliber: L952.2 Diameter: 41.5 mm
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar houses a “Grande Tapisserie” dial with matching subdials in a Titanium case and is a limited edition of 300 pieces. Caliber: 5134 Diameter: 41 mm Water resistance: 20 m
This Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 is a chronograph from the premier series with its complete calendar and moon phase. “Datora” is a term used by Breitling and refers to a complete calendar chronograph displaying the day, date, month and the different moon phases. The Datora is powered by the COSC-certified Manufacture Caliber: B25 Diameter: 42 mm Water resistance: 10 m
The Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake S has the exclusive “Stairway to Eternity” dial. Calibre SXH5 is Czapek’s in-house self-winding mechanical movement. Integrated stainless steel bracelet with Czapek exclusive “Easy Release” system and micro-adjustment device. Calibre: SXH5 Diameter: 38.5 mm Water resistance: 120 m
The Grönefeld 1941 Principia Automatic salmon dial, like the other choices, comes in solid sterling silver, housed in the company’s 1941 case in red gold, white gold or stainless steel. With its self-winding movement, the watch successfully harnesses gravity, making it ideal for daily wear. Calibre: G-06 Diameter: 39.5 mm Water resistance: 30 m
This IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 comes in a compact stainless-steel case diameter of 40 millimetres, with its characteristic elegance. This simple, organised open dial is visually soothing and the minute’s scale and small seconds at 6 o’clock are pretty unintrusive. The dial is a sunray finish. Calibre: 82200 Diameter: 40.4 mm Water resistance: 30 m
This Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit features a salmon pink dial that captures the breath-taking beauty of the sky at sunrise. The architecture of the Grand Sport case in titanium evokes the elegant, timeless curves of racing cars. Calibre: LF619.01 Diameter: 44 mm Water resistance: 100 m
Montblanc Heritage Monopusher Chronograph Salmon-coloured domed dial featuring two different finishes gives the timepiece an elegant and sophisticated aesthetic. Comes with black rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes and Minerva Manufacture embossing on the case back. It is a chronograph with central second-hand and a 30-minute counter. Caliber: MB 25.12 Diameter: 42 mm Water resistance: 50 m
The Patek Philippe 5935A-001 is a self-winding World Time flyback chronograph that indicates the time in 24 time zones. Known as Rose-gilt opaline, the salmon dial is cased in steel with a sapphire crystal case back. It has an exclusive patented mechanism to correct all displays with a single pusher at 10 o’clock. Caliber: CH 28-520 HU Diameter: 41 mm Water resistance: 30 m
The Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5000T/000P-B975 43 MM Platinum contains a column-wheel chronograph and a perpetual calendar. Caliber: 1142 QP Diameter: 43 mm
Jacob & Co.’s brand-new partnership with DC Comics brings forth a Bat-watch filled with hints that speak to every Bat-fan out there.
Would Bruce Wayne trade his 18K Rose Gold watch for a Black DLC Matte Titanium?
Would you? Well, it’s a tough choice to make but technically since he is Batman, he would have both, one for the day and one for the night.
But given a choice which one would you choose?
Jacob & Co.’s Founder and Creative Director, Jacob Arabo has managed to embody the essence of Batman through a masterpiece Bruce Wayne himself would not be able to resist.
Think of Bruce Wayne and the persona that comes to mind is of a deeply intellectual, introverted, philanthropist. His desire to bring justice to the criminals of Gotham springs from his dark past.
It is thus befitting his billionaire status to flaunt a watch that speaks eloquently about his impenetrability, his sombre yet charming prowess.
Both the models of the Gotham City watch have been fitted with a hyper complicated movement with twin, flying, sequential, triple-axis tourbillons, the watch is true to the hyperbolic nature of the Dark Knight.
He only ever uses the best gear available and said gear always resembles his costume, his colours, his style. Gotham City also has two faces. It’s both matte and luminous, dark and funny, earnest and playful, highly engineered and in the final analysis, toy-like.
Because the last thing Jacob & Co. wants is someone asking, “Why so serious?” with a disturbing, enlarged smile.
The symbolic aspects of Gotham City are everywhere. The shape of the lugs resembles the Bat-suit’s multi-faceted design. The crown is covered with a rubber band shaped like the Batmobile’s tires. The indices are black, pointy, and sharp as a Batarang. The dial is shaped like the Bat emblem. It’s cut into a slab of solid onyx, outlined by a contour made of Neoralithe, coloured in yellow and it glows blue in the dark, a nod to the Bat-signal. Lastly, the pair of triple-axis tourbillons are shaped like the grappling hooks the Batman uses.
Jacob & Co. fitted Gotham City with an extremely advanced, spectacular, and efficient movement.
It’s comprised of 382 components, the, most striking of which may be a bat-bridge visible through the case back, but the most complex being the two tourbillons. Each one of them rotates along three different axes. Both have no upper bridge and are therefore of the flying kind. Isn’t it only fitting for a superhero who leaps in the air, travels in a winged hovering machine and responds to a signal etched on clouds to have a flying attribute?
But that’s not all, the box in which Gotham City comes is enough to turn anyone into Poison Ivy. So if you can and you do not get yourself one of these spectacular dark new age bat-toys the joke’s on you.
