The Chronomètre FB Res: A customisable version of the Remontoire revealing its intricacies

Posted on May 13, 2024 by Eyesontime

THE CHRONOMÈTRE FB RES: A CUSTOMISABLE VERSION OF THE REMONTOIRE REVEALING ITS INTRICACIES

Four years ago, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud unveiled the Chronomètre FB 2RE. This collection featuring numerous innovative aspects introduced the Maison’s second movement, equipped with fusee-and-chain transmission and a one-second remontoire device. This calibre, which has won awards for its precision timekeeping performance, now reveals more of how it operates through the customisable bridges and mainplate of the new Chronomètre FB RES.

In 2020, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud unveiled its second collection, the Chronomètre FB 2RE. This timepiece marked a real turning point for the Maison: the first round case, the first display with three central hands; and above all the first movement with a double regulation system combining fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second “remontoir d’égalité”.
This movement is now offered with a completely revisited design intended to highlight its sophisticated inner workings. Formerly in domed Grand Feu enamel, the dial now features a technical combination of bridges and mainplate as well as a wide opening stretching from 3 o’clock to 6 o’clock. The latter reveals a construction with three bridges converging towards the dial centre. This geometry is directly inspired by a skeletonised table clock made by Ferdinand Berthoud circa 1775. The similarity does not end there, as that clock displaying the hours, minutes, seconds, age of the Moon, calendar and zodiac signs was also equipped with a “remontoir d’égalité”. This timepiece in perfect working order is part of the Maison’s heritage and is currently housed in the Ferdinand Berthoud Museum in Fleurier.

Two linear metres of hand chamfering

Exposing the movement components of the Chronomètre FB RES opens up unprecedented aesthetic perspectives, while simultaneously revealing a particularly meticulous finishing process.

Each wheel, bridge and screw is entirely hand-decorated. An extraordinary level of manual finishing has been applied in order to reveal the beauty of each component. Placed end to end, all the angles of the wheels and their bridges, as well as those revealed at the heart of the 9 o’clock power-reserve display, represent more than two linear metres filed and polished by hand. The finishing of the bridges and mainplate is specific to this new model named FB RES – standing in French for “Remontoir d’Égalité Squelette”.
38 personalised calibres

Thirty-eight movements will be produced in total. They will be open to customisation in a wide range of options. The shape (round or octagonal) and material (stainless-steel, titanium, ceramised titanium and 18-carat white, yellow, or rose gold) of the case, the colour of the inner bezel ring, the dial and the associated finishes (sandblasted or satin-brushed): in all, more than 200 variations can be simulated on an online configurator specifically created for this model. Collectors will thus be able to bring to life variations that are unprecedented for Ferdinand Berthoud, notably including a calibre with a remontoire device in an octagonal case.

Peak precision

At the heart of this timepiece beats the Calibre FB-RES.FC, regulated by fusee-and-chain transmission and a one-second remontoire. The purpose of this full-fledged chronometric complication is to even out the energy coming from the barrel and transmitted to the escapement. The device relies on a spring positioned between the two organs. It temporarily stores a small amount of energy, which is then delivered to the balance. The charge/discharge frequency of this buffer energy is very short: one second. It is this sequential impulse that the large central seconds hand beats off, connected to the “remontoir d’égalité” via an intermediate wheel. It therefore advances in one-second jumps: this is a true-beat mechanism also known as a deadbeat second and generated directly by the remontoire. All these mechanical intricacies are almost entirely visible through the back of the FB RES.

“We are fortunate to have in our Fleurier Museum this clock made in 1775 by Ferdinand Berthoud, which reveals its movement, including a “remontoir d’égalité””, says Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. “Imagining a modern interpretation of this exceptional work seemed a quite logical step. This gave rise to the idea behind the FB RES collection: a skeletonised, more technical version of our own Calibre FB-RE.FC with a one-second remontoire mechanism.”

The Chronomètre FB RES also perpetuates the Maison’s desire to offer collectors the possibility of personalising their timepieces through a wide range of options offered by this new configurator, directly accessible online on the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud website.

ABOUT THE INSPIRATION

Skeletonised table clock, Ferdinand Berthoud, circa 1775
Four ring-shaped white enamelled dials for the hours (I-XII), minutes (60), seconds (60) and calendar (31); months (12) with zodiac signs; days of the week (7) and age of the moon (29 ½).
One main gear train and two strikework trains (hours and quarters). By means of a “remontoir d’égalité”, the main gear train supplies constant energy to the pin-pallet escapement.
The quarters strikework train (left) strikes the quarters on two bells. The hours strikework train (right) is activated after striking the quarters. It also activates the calendar.
“Ferdinand Berthoud” signature on the gilded plaque adorning the marble base:
Dimensions: 25 x 15 x 43 cm

CASE

Shape Round case fitted with one glare-proofed sapphire crystal porthole at 10 o’clock Octagonal case fitted with two glare-proofed sapphire crystal portholes at 2 and 11 o’clock
Total diameter 44 mm 44 mm
Thickness 14.30 mm 14.26 mm
Water resistance 30 metres 30 metres
Crown diameter 9 mm 9 mm
Possible materials 18-carat rose gold, 18-carat yellow gold, 18-carat white gold, platinum, stainless steel, titanium and ceramised titanium 18-carat rose gold, 18-carat yellow gold, 18-carat white gold, stainless steel, titanium and ceramised titanium, (platinum not available)

• Dynamometric crown (decoupling system)
• Case-back fitted with a “chevee” sapphire crystal pane glare-proofed on both sides.
• Domed “chevee” sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides

DIAL

• Openworked nickel silver decorative plate topping the mainplate (dial):
Possible finishes: vertical satin-brushed or sandblasted
Possible colours: champagne-toned, anthracite or blue
• Circular satin-brushed seconds inner bezel ring surrounding the dial
Possible colours: champagne-toned, anthracite or silver-toned
• Mirror-polished stainless-steel gear-train bridges between 3 and 6 o’clock
• Power-reserve indication with “0_1” engraving on a 9 o’clock bridge visible on the dial side

HANDS

• Dagger-shaped hours and minutes hands in 18-carat gold
• Central sweep-seconds hand in brass
• Arrow-shaped power-reserve hand in 18-carat gold

STRAP AND BUCKLE

• Hand-sewn leather strap (125 x 70 mm, with a 20 mm buckle) – Various sizes available on request
• Length-adjustable double-blade folding clasp – Pin buckle available on request

FUNCTIONS

• Hours and minutes, deadbeat seconds, power reserve, time-setting with stop-seconds device on the balance

MOVEMENT

• Calibre FB-RES.FC: mechanical manual-winding movement, constant force with fusee-and-chain transmission and one-second remontoire
Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37.30 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.37 mm
Lignes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 ½
Jewels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58
Frequency . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 hours

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

• Constant force with fusee-and-chain transmission
Inverted and suspended fusee – differential winding system (PATENT)
Suspended barrel – Maltese cross stopwork system
• Regulating organ
Two-arm variable-inertia Ferdinand Berthoud balance wheel fitted with 4 integrated adjustment screws
Balance-spring with hand-crafted Phillips outer terminal curve (steel alloy)
Swiss lever escapement
15-toothed escape-wheel
• “Remontoir d’égalité” mechanism
One-second winding
Three-toothed stop wheel
Triple-sided cam in hand-crafted synthetic ruby
Flat spiral spring (steel alloy)

Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1200 (including the chain)
Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 790 components
Chain length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 mm
Bridges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Pillars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

DECORATIONS

• Nickel silver bridges fitted on stylised stainless-steel pillars, decorated according to dial design
• Hand-finishing according to the highest watchmaking standards

Officially chronometer-certified by the COSC

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024

Posted on September 28, 2023 by Eyesontime

55 exhibiting Maisons, 3 days open to the Public

Taking place from April 9 to 15, 2024, the next Watches and Wonders Geneva promises to be a thrilling one, with an enhanced program at the Salon and In The City, specially designed for the general public. The focus will be on the visitor experience, as well as meaningful connection and interaction with the exhibiting Maisons. Several spaces have been expanded, allowing the event to host new brands and welcome the public over 3 full days!

Planning is already well underway for Watches and Wonders Geneva to ensure a unique week for the world of fine watchmaking, with a record 55 watch brands confirmed to take part in 2024. It’s a chance for industry professionals, connoisseurs and enthusiasts to come together, experience the latest products first-hand, engage and build meaningful connections. A new 7-day program has been designed with the Salon opening to the public from Saturday to Monday. Tickets can be purchased online from early February 2024, with student and weekend prices available.

The Watches and Wonders Geneva experience has been reimagined for 2024. It will now encompass two floors and feature new spaces for visitors to explore along with enhanced venues for meeting and discussion.

In addition to prestigious names such as Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe, IWC Schaffhausen and TAG Heuer, six new brands will be exhibiting for the first time, with Bremont on one side and Eberhard & Co, Gerald Charles, Nomos Glashütte, Norqain and Raymond Weil on the other. H. Moser & Cie. will also be making its return to the Carré des Horlogers.

The LAB, which serves as a window into the future of the industry, will take on a new dimension at the heart of the Salon, symbolically representing the importance of technological innovation within the manufactures. Here, startups, schools and engineers will reveal the secrets of tomorrow’s watchmaking. It’s an immersive, tactile and sensory experience for the curious and especially relevant to younger enthusiasts with career aspirations.

The heart of the City will be ticking even louder to the rhythm of watch movements, with a dynamic In The City program. A new Village Horloger will be created to showcase the wonders of fine watchmaking, its crafts, savoir-faire and talents. Major brands will also be joining the festivities with in-store activities featuring presentations and special exhibitions of their finest creations. The evening celebration – with its free concert – will be held on April 11 on the Quai Général-Guisan.

Watches and Wonders Geneva is aimed at all audiences and all ages, with a particular focus on younger generations who have shown a growing interest in the industry. The countdown begins as the whole city is getting ready to once again welcome the watchmaking event of the year!

Online ticketing early February 2024!

EXHIBITING MAISONS
A. LANGE & SÖHNE | ALPINA WATCHES | ANGELUS | ARNOLD & SON | BAUME & MERCIER | BEAUREGARD | BELL & ROSS | BREMONT | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHARLES ZUBER | CHARRIOL | CHOPARD | CHRONOSWISS | CYRUS GENÈVE | CZAPEK & CIE | EBERHARD & CO. | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | FREDERIQUE CONSTANT | GERALD CHARLES | GRAND SEIKO | GRÖNEFELD | H. MOSER & CIE. | HAUTLENCE | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | HYSEK | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET | MONTBLANC | NOMOS GLASHÜTTE | NORQAIN | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PEQUIGNET | PIAGET | RAYMOND WEIL | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE-MARIN | TAG HEUER | TRILOBE | TUDOR | U-BOAT | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH

Day 2 at Watches and Wonders 2023

Posted on March 28, 2023 by Eyesontime

If you have recovered from yesterday’s exhilarating trip, be ready to be spun around some more because the show keeps getting surreal.

Without much ado, we shall begin our discovery of the exquisite novelties that await us.

BEAUREGARD – Dahlia White Gold – Fire Opal

The Maison’s founding collection Dahlia was unveiled in 2018 to immediate international recognition. The collection was selected for the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) alongside international powerhouse brands. This poetic floral creation with its Haute Joaillerie dial, animated by a central flying tourbillon and set with 600 flawless diamonds, is presented this year with a dial handmade in vibrant Fire opal. Sourced in the Mexican village of Magdalena, the world center for the 5 mines producing this fascinating gem, this flawless selection of rough stones is worked in a Montreal workshop to the highest standards of craftsmanship.

A delicate-looking yet sturdy timepiece on a lovely wrist has a calming effect on time.

CHOPARD – Alpine Eagle 41 XPS

Alpine Eagle extends its range with an ultra-thin model featuring a small seconds indication. The L.U.C 96.40-L movement measures 3.30mm only, enabling the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS to beat with chronometer-certified accuracy. Optimal proportions and a textured “Monte Rosa Pink” dial endow this model with undeniable elegance and distinction, while its finishes have earned it Poinçon de Genève recognition.

This one is sure to charm you and make you look at the world with Rosa tinted glasses.

FERDINAND BERTHOUD – FB 3SPC.1

The Chronomètre FB 3SPC.1, one of the two versions, is equipped with an 18-carat white gold case, 2N pale yellow gold movement components and an eggshell-coloured dial in sandblasted silver-toned brass.

Golden dreams are made of these.

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT – Classic Tourbillon Manufacture

Honouring the watchmaking traditions, the Classic Tourbillon is manufactured in gold in a limited quantity of 150 individually numbered watches. The tourbillon was first unveiled in 2008, 15 years ago, with a comma-shaped aperture in 2023, the comma has become a full circle.

The elegance of this timepiece is not to be missed.

HUBLOT – MP-13 TOURBILLON BI-AXIS RETROGRADE

Hublot is known for its disruptive, creative and technical Haute Horlogerie. Now writing a new chapter in the MP story with masterpieces that are collectors’ dreams. The new MP-13 is a unique 100% Hublot Manufacture complication with a double-axis Tourbillon and Dual Retrograde Display from the watchmaking of tomorrow.

Wrap your head and time around this one because this is one complicated yet beautiful timepiece.

HUBLOT –Square Bang Sapphire

Hublot unveils its interpretation of the square watch, a new geometry for the watchmaker. Inspired by the Maison’s iconic Big Bang, this Square Bang Unico adds a new pillar: ‘The Shaped Collection’ to sit alongside the Spirit of Big Bang.

A show-stopper is an apt word for this one. If the world were square, it would probably just fit in fine in this one. The transparent sapphire case makes this the watch to have.

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN – Ingenieur Automatic 40 Black

During the 70s, Gerald Genta created the Ingenieur SL, Reference 1832. Today’s Ingenieur Automatic 40 embodies his vision of bringing a stainless steel sporty watch with an integrated bracelet. While meeting the highest standards set for technology, ergonomics and finish, the watch also shows off daring aesthetics.

The black ‘grid’ will seamlessly intersect and network into your multiple parallel universes, real or imaginary.

LAURENT FERRIER – Square Micro-Rotor Evergreen

Always committed to creating timeless yet modern pieces that are functional yet can sway you with their aesthetic power, Laurent Ferrier now brings forth watches that are an eclectic mix of sophistication and elegance, the Square Micro-Rotor Evergreen and the Classic Micro-Rotor Evergreen.

Simplicity has immense power, check this watch out if you do not believe me.

ROLEX – New Cosmograph Daytona

Rolex has launched new age Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona updating its range. The case design is singular in nature and features its characteristic chronograph with refined details.

This model has the most unique colour combinations and this being Rolex it wears its crown high.

20 Days to Watches and Wonders 2022

Posted on March 10, 2022 by Eyesontime

The moment journalists, retailers and clients of the 38 exhibiting Maisons have been waiting for… Watches and Wonders Geneva will finally open its doors on 30 March 2022, for a week filled with exciting discoveries. A vast digital system has been set up to allow invited guests and the general public to follow online either live or via replay all the action of the Salon, which is already shaping up to be THE watch industry event of the year.

While the press, retailers and guests invited to the Salon can already plan their personalized program on the watchesandwonders.com platform, in Geneva the excitement is reaching a fever pitch. The set-up of the different exhibition areas is already underway to ensure that visitors can be welcomed while respecting health measures. In the surrounding manufactures and ateliers, the watchmakers are putting the final details to the new watches and jewelry collections that will be unveiled by the Maisons on March 30.

For its first physical event under the name Watches and Wonders Geneva – since last year’s event was entirely digital – the Salon will focus on major launches, previews, exceptional pieces and numerous new wonders. Aside from being featured in the Touch & Feel sessions, products will also be at the heart of discussions over many organized events, such as the Morning Show, the panel discussions and the innovative projects unveiled in the LAB.

Broadcast live from the Salon every morning at 8 am CET on the watchesandwonders.com platform and on its YouTube channel, The Morning Show will be presented this year by Olivia Chang, a renowned business journalist. She will host this first morning program with cross conversations between brand leaders and industry experts to follow the news of the Salon and decipher new trends. She will be back again at 7 pm CET on the Late Show, a new rendez-vous that will review the day’s highlights. Also broadcast live and in replay, the program will feature a different guest each day, who will be invited to share his or her favorites from the Salon. The Late Show will also offer a summary of the keynotes from the Maisons held in the Auditorium, along with highlights of the exceptional pieces being unveiled by the 38 exhibiting brands.

A daily 45-minute panel discussion, hosted by watchmaking experts and other influential personalities, will explore the issue of sustainable development in greater depth. This theme, a particularly hot topic at the moment, will be addressed from different angles, such as transparency, responsible sourcing, innovation and the circular economy. Broadcast live from the Salon at 1 pm CET on the watchesandwonders.com platform and on its YouTube channel, the program will also be available in replay.

Located in the center of the Salon, facing the Carré des Horlogers, the LAB has been designed as an ideas laboratory. This space, showcasing nearly 15 projects, will present the technological and digital innovations of the exhibiting Maisons. Highlighting eco- responsible sourcing practices, upcycling, the use of new materials, new energy sources and strategic partnerships with sustainable associations and organizations, the various initiatives will enable visitors to discover all these innovations and gain a better understanding of NFTs (Non-Fungible Token) and the world of metaverse.

Watches and Culture will also curate the ‘Time Design’ exhibition dedicated to the evolution of wristwatch design through the ages. Imagined as a journey through watchmaking creativity and illustrated by more than 100 timepieces presented in showcases designed by students of ECAL (École d’art de Lausanne), the event will also pay tribute to the work of Mr. Gérald Genta. Five pieces produced by students of the HEAD art & design school in Geneva will invite visitors to question the display of time, while an augmented reality experience will immerse the viewer in the history of a few watchmaking icons.

A broadcasting area consisting of two fully equipped studios will be available for the Maisons who wish to stay in touch with those journalists who are unable to travel to Geneva. In addition, booths equipped with a VISIODOME, a system that proved its worth last year as an optimized way of presenting products remotely, will allow the Maisons to share their latest creations with a larger audience.

Everyone is working hard to make this long-awaited edition the greatest watchmaking summit ever held in Geneva! Just 30 days to go before discovering new watches and jewelry releases, previews, major announcements, exceptional pieces and other innovations.

EXHIBITING MAISONS:

CARRÉ DES HORLOGERS:

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The Chronomètre FB Res: A customisable version of the Remontoire revealing its intricacies