The Story of a quest that has lasted for 270 years

Posted on January 14, 2025 by Eyesontime

In 1755 in Geneva, Jean-Marc Vacheron began writing the first chapter of a story that has become a remarkable human adventure – a quest for excellence passed down from generation to generation. The passion, expertise and creativity of the men and women of the Manufacture have shaped

Constantin’s identity through a subtle balance between technical mastery and artistic sensitivity. Deeply rooted in the workshops, these values do much to explain the Maison’s longevity. Since the turn of this century, Vacheron Constantin has marked each new decade by honouring its heritage, looking to the future and issuing a number of exceptional timepieces. Throughout 2025, to mark 270 years of creation, tradition and innovation, a series of celebrations begins with the reissue of an iconic timepiece, much awaited by its clients, the Historiques 222, cased in stainless steel.

“Since the turn of the century, Vacheron Constantin has taken each decade anniversary as an opportunity to talk about its history and the values handed down through the centuries.”- Christian Selmoni

AN EXTRAORDINARY HUMAN QUEST

In the 18th century, when Vacheron Constantin was born, Geneva was a peaceful and economically prosperous city. ‘The factory that flourished most in Geneva was the watchmaking industry, which accounted for more than a fifth of the city’s population’, noted Diderot and d’Alembert’s Encyclopédie. Its booming economy was matched by great cultural richness: the home city of Rousseau, it attracted other great minds, including Voltaire, who took up residence the same year that the Maison was established.

Jean-Marc Vacheron’s signing of his watchmaking apprenticeship contract in 1755 is regarded as the founding act of Vacheron Constantin – the beginning of a quest for watchmaking excellence driven by the determination and passion of successive generations. This contract also established a fundamental value of the Maison: the transmission of knowledge and skills. The sharing of knowledge over 270 years – at first supported by the open-mindedness of the Age of Enlightenment and always driven by the desire for constant progress – has forged the character of Vacheron Constantin. In 1819, Jacques Barthélémi Vacheron, the founder’s grandson, received a note from his new business partner, François Constantin, urging him to «do better if possible, and that is always possible». This maxim remains the motto of the Maison to this day.

Vacheron Constantin’s enduring success lies in its singular approach to watchmaking – one that deftly balances technical mastery and artistic sensitivity, mechanical complexity and craftsmanship, innovation and elegance. Witness the pocket watch with chronograph and chiming mechanism set in an elaborately chased 20k gold case, created in 1918 for American industrialist James Ward Packard; and the Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon, a single-piece edition timepiece created in 2023 for the dashboard of the bespoke Rolls-Royce Amethyst Droptail.

Timepieces such as these encapsulate the creativity and skill of the Maison’s watchmakers, artisans and designers, driven by perseverance and passion as they constantly push the boundaries, like a quest driven by perseverance and mastery.

This pursuit of fine workmanship has defined the Maison’s identity for the past 270 years and is showcased through a new communication campaign rolled out in 2025. The campaign refers to the quest for excellence that has always motivated Vacheron Constantin, both in the most accomplished expression of the art of watchmaking and in the promotion and transmission of knowledge. The result is a visual story of a human adventure which longevity is entirely dependent on this seek for beauty. Woodkid, a French musician and artistic director who has been working with the Maison for the past three years, notably on mentoring programs, has composed music dedicated to this 270-year quest for excellence.

270 YEARS OF TECHNICAL ACCOMPLISHMENTS AND HOROLOGICAL INNOVATION

Throughout its history, Vacheron Constantin has been imbued with a boldly creative spirit that has given birth to countless innovations, particularly in the field of high complications and timekeeping precision.

From the first calendar timepiece recorded in the Manufacture’s archives in 1790 to the 2024 Les Cabinotiers The Berkley Grand Complication watch equipped with 63 complications, the Manufacture has explored many fields of technical expression: chiming watches, mechanisms for measuring short intervals of time, astronomical functions, special displays and tourbillon regulators.

These avenues of research and development have led to major innovations, not only in timekeeping mechanisms but also in the refinement of production processes. In 1839, the Manufacture engaged Georges-Auguste Leschot to invent a special watchmaking pantograph that enabled the standardisation and interchangeability of components for watches equipped with the same calibre. In 1934, it developed a portable high-frequency precision device enabling the calculation of 1/20th of a second.

In 1914 the Maison’s passion for technical innovation led to the creation of a very small rectangular movement named the tuyau (pipe). At just 26 mm long and 6.5 mm wide, it was the forerunner of the baguette movement, which was fitted to many jewellery watches. In 1932, Vacheron Constantin collaborated with Louis Cottier in developing Reference 3372, the first watch to incorporate the ‘Cottier system’ world time complication. Patented the previous year, the complication enables the simultaneous display of 24 time zones and was to become the standard on which almost all world time displays are based.

Many more world firsts have followed – among them the first retrograde date display (the “Don Pancho” in 1940), the first Hebraic perpetual calendar (Les Cabinotiers Reference 57260 in 2015) and the first Chinese perpetual calendar (Les Cabinotiers The Berkley Grand Complication in 2024). In 2019, the Maison developed a dual-frequency mechanism with two oscillators, presented in Calibre 3160 QP. By alternating between the 5 Hz oscillator (active mode) and the 1.2 Hz oscillator (standby mode), the power reserve can be extended to 65 days.

In Vacheron Constantin’s quest for excellence, accuracy of timekeeping is a prerequisite – equally fundamental in time- only calibres and the most complicated watches – such as Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, which is orchestrated around civil, solar and sidereal time. This pursuit of timekeeping precision is symbolised by the Maltese cross that has been the Maison’s emblem since 1880. The emblem was inspired by the shape of a component in early movements that improved constant force from the mainspring.

In the 19th century, marine chronometers were synonymous with scientific progress, as the burgeoning of chronometry competitions – notably in Geneva from 1872 onwards – gave the Manufacture the opportunity to shine in this field. In 1869, Vacheron Constantin presented a pocket chronometer with a yellow gold hunter-type case and a white enamel dial, regulated by a highly accurate detent escapement. In 1947, a Vacheron Constantin pocket-watch, submitted to the Geneva Observatory and tested during the 44 days of the competition, registered an average daily deviation in rate of just two hundredths of a second.

In 1907, the Manufacture unveiled the Chronomètre Royal, conceived as a robust and highly technical timepiece that offered an outstanding level of precision and reliability. In 2007, the centenary of that watch was marked with a special re-edition that not only bore the Hallmark of Geneva and COSC chronometer certification, but also successfully passed the Manufacture’s stringent 30-day functional test.

Not content with simply mastering horological complications, Vacheron Constantin went further, combining them in highly complex calibres. During the first half of the 20th century, in keeping with long-established tradition, many special, high-complication timepieces were commissioned from the Maison by distinguished collectors or created as gifts for sovereign rulers. In 1929, King Fouad of Egypt was presented with a Grand Complication pocket watch with beautiful enamelling on the yellow gold case, by Egypt’s Swiss expatriate community. In 1946, as a gift for King Fouad’s son, King Farouk I, the Swiss government commissioned a chiming pocket watch in 18k yellow gold that combined a minute repeater with Grande and Petite Sonnerie with a split-seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar, indication of the phases and age of the moon, an alarm and two power reserves.

270 YEARS OF AESTHETIC MASTERY AND BOLD CREATIVITY

Since the earliest days, the value that has clearly distinguished Vacheron Constantin from other watchmakers is that its continuing quest for complex mechanical engineering is inseparable from its pursuit of beauty and cultivation of aesthetic craftsmanship. This ethos is applied not only to the outside of timepieces but also to the inside part once assembled.

Every movement component is hand-finished – even those that are invisible once the watch is assembled. Many calibres carry the prestigious Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal), a hallmark awarded only to timepieces made in Geneva and attesting to the highest level of hand-decoration and finishing. Decorative techniques may include perlage, Côtes de Genève, bevelling, chamfering, mirror-polishing and engraving. An art unto itself, open-working involves the carving away of metal from movement components to leave only a fine structural skeleton that allows the eye to travel deep into the calibre – its most accomplished and technically demanding expression being the skeletonisation of ultra-thin movements.

Vacheron Constantin has its own métiers d’art workshops. Here, specialised artisans have mastered the crafts of engraving, gem-setting, enamelling and guillochage, among many others – elevating timepieces into miniature works of art and honouring a philosophy that dates back to the Maison’s beginnings.

An early example of this approach is a 1812 quarter-repeater watch with an enamel dial and guilloché caseback, which epitomised the Maison’s technical mastery and artistic sensibility. In 1943 the Maison introduced Reference 4261, a minute repeater with a record-setting ultra-thin movement just 3.2 mm thick. The technical prowess inherent in this movement is equalled by the pure elegance and sublime craftsmanship of its case and dial. At 36 mm in diameter and just 5.25 mm thick, the case – with double-stepped bezel and convex three-tiered sides – is complemented by teardrop-shaped lugs. On the sector dial, pierced dots mark the minutes and Roman numerals and faceted arrowhead hour markers are applied onto a guilloché pattern of concentric circles.

Today, combined with the Manufacture’s openness to world cultures (symbolised by its partnerships with some of the world’s greatest institutions – the Louvre in Paris, the Metropolitan Museum in New York and the Educational Institute of the Palace Museum in Beijing), the expertise housed in the métiers d’art workshops has made possible the creation of pieces that are as original as they are beautiful. Among many examples the Métiers d’Art – Tribute to Great Civilisations (2022). With four discs indicating the hours, minutes, days and dates, they seamlessly blend mechanics and art into a whole.
Throughout Vacheron Constantin’s history, its deep commitment to craft has been allied to great creative flair, fostering a signature that has been perpetually in tune with its time – inspired and progressive yet always imbued with classical elegance.

In the 1920s, as men began to adopt wristwatches rather than carrying pocket watches, Vacheron Constantin introduced the American 1921, an avant-garde wristwatch named after its year of launch and the market for which it was secretly produced. Capturing the spirit of the Roaring Twenties, it is said to have been originally designed with drivers in mind: with a cushion-shaped case offset by 45 degrees and the crown at 1 o’clock, its white enamel dial reveals time at a glance with no need for the driver, according to legend, to lift his hand from the steering wheel.

In June 1972, the French government awarded the rare Diplôme du Prestige de la France to Vacheron Constantin – the first watch company to receive the honour. To celebrate this honour, Vacheron Constantin designed a new wristwatch with an oval movement set in an asymmetrical quadrilateral case – an early example of the bold aesthetics that characterised the emancipatory style of the 1970s.

Since the creation of the Maison’s first ladies’ watch in 1889, Vacheron Constantin’s quest for innovative and imaginative watchmaking has consistently led it to pay particular attention to High Jewellery timepieces. A curved version of the baguette movement was made in 1916 for a ladies’ wristwatch acquired by the Maharaja of Patiala, Sir Bhupinder Singh. Crafted in platinum and diamonds, its open-worked, chased and engraved case enables a sideways view of the time. In 1979, the presentation of the Kallista represented the apotheosis of High Jewellery watchmaking. Carved from a one-kilo gold ingot and set with 118 diamonds totalling 130 carats, it required 6,000 hours of work.

In 1994, exploring an entirely different stylistic avenue, Vacheron Constantin commemorated the 400th anniversary of the death of the Flemish Renaissance cartographer Gerhard Kremer, known as Mercator. The dial of the Mercator watch features a multicoloured champlevé enamel motif representing one of his hemisphere maps and the movement features bi-retrograde hours and minutes. Time displays such as this, including jumping hours and retrograde indications, are a signature of the Maison – their visually engaging style underpinned by highly sophisticated mechanics.

“These milestone anniversaries celebrate a philosophy that combines mechanical research and innovation with a deep commitment to craft and a stylistic approach that is both progressive and highly respectful of classical elegance.”- Christian Selmoni

CELEBRATING MILESTONE ANNIVERSARIES WITH EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES

In 1955, to mark the bicentenary of its founding, Vacheron Constantin showcased the marriage of aesthetic elegance and technical know-how with a series of the thinnest watches ever conceived until that time. The three models were equipped with Calibre 1003, a hand-wound movement as thin as a 20 Swiss centime coin at just 1.64 mm – bearing the Poinçon de Genève hallmark as testament to the superlative hand-finishing of its components.
The Maison also presented the Reference 6068 in a limited edition. Its dial is distinguished by the Maltese Cross emblem – and the four lugs on the 18k yellow gold case form the same cross when brought together.

Since the 1990s, Vacheron Constantin has celebrated each decade anniversary by presenting timepieces that perfectly illustrate the expertise cultivated within the Manufacture since 1755. In 1995, to mark its 240th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin showcased its philosophy of balancing technical prowess and aesthetic sophistication, by unveiling a tonneau-shaped watch in gold or platinum. Set in a case with moveable lugs, Calibre 1127 offers a power reserve indicator along with date and small seconds displays.

In 2005, the Tour de l’Île watch marked the Maison’s 250th anniversary. The movement, Calibre 2750, united 16 complications to be read off a double-sided display, making it the most complicated ever series-produced wristwatch. In the same landmark year, the Manufacture presented the Saint Gervais – with a record-breaking 250-hour power reserve delivered by four barrels – the Jubilée 1755, an ode to sophisticated simplicity; the Métiers d’Art Four Seasons; and L’Esprit des Cabinotiers – a one-of-a-kind secret clock concealed within an eight-petaled pink gold orb.

A decade later, to mark its 260th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the entirely new Harmony collection, comprising models for both men and women in a cushion- shaped case. Set in an 8.40 mm case, the Harmony Chronographe Grande Complication set a new world record with the self-winding Calibre 3500 – comprising 459 components – measuring just 5.20 mm thick. The flagship piece of this anniversary was the Les Cabinotiers Reference 57260 pocket watch, which took eight years to develop and craft, featuring 57 complications, including the first Hebraic perpetual calendar.

“While talking about the Maison’s remarkable heritage is one thing, putting it into practice is another. Each of these anniversaries is marked by timepieces that perfectly illustrate the values cultivated within the Manufacture since 1755.”- Christian Selmoni

HISTORIQUES 222 STAINLESS STEEL WATCH, REINVENTING A SYMBOL OF DARING CREATIVITY

To begin the celebration of 270 years of passion, and in response to the expectations of its clients, Vacheron Constantin presents the inaugural timepiece marking its anniversary year: the Historiques 222 in stainless steel.

This model harks back to a legendary creation, first unveiled in 1977 to mark its 222nd anniversary. Designed by Jorg Hysek, the model was an immediate departure from the sports watch conventions of the time, which had mainly been professional models for pilots, divers and explorers, and captured a new cultural mood that blurred the lines between formality and sportiness. As well as marking a break with traditional sports watch characteristics, the 222 was a quintessentially 1970s design and introduced a new stylistic signature to the Maison.

Fitted with an integrated bracelet, its case featured a functional construction with a flat table, topped by a prominent fluted bezel and stamped with a Maltese cross at 5 o’clock. The monobloc case, which required the movement to be fitted from the top, was water-resistant to 120 metres thanks to its screw-down bezel. Displaying the hours, minutes and date, the 222 also boasted exemplary slenderness at just 7 mm, thanks to the ultra-thin Calibre 1120; measuring a mere 3.05 mm, it was the world’s thinnest full-rotor automatic movement. Balancing this visual elegance, the simple, baton-style hands and hour-markers, and the large hexagonal central links of the bracelet conveyed an impression of robustness and confident modernity.

In 2025, Vacheron Constantin presents a new edition of the first 222 model – nicknamed ‘Jumbo’ by collectors and featuring a blue dial framed by a 37 mm stainless steel case. The re-edition benefits from several technical improvements. The joints of the bracelet – which is now fastened with a triple-blade rather than a twin-blade clasp – have been redesigned to hide the visible pins and improve ergonomics. The caseback which bears a signature representing Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary has been fitted with a transparent sapphire crystal to reveal the in-house Calibre 2455/2. Slightly smaller in diameter than its predecessor, it is still only 3.6 mm thick. The oscillating weight of this high-precision movement is engraved with the original 222 logo and edged with a fluted motif reminiscent of the bezel. Thanks to its frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) – compared with 2.75 Hz on the original model – the movement offers enhanced precision and is endowed with a 40-hour power reserve.

On the dial, the date window has been moved towards the centre so that it no longer encroaches on the minutes track. The vintage font of the “AUTOMATIC” inscription and the Super-LumiNova® coating of the hands and hour-markers (off-white by day and lime green by night) are a nod to the hue of the tritium used in historical timepieces. The finishing displays Vacheron Constantin’s eternal attention detail, with a combination of vertical satin-brushing and polishing on several elements of the watch, such as the crown, bracelet and bezel, which creates fascinating light effects.

Like all of the models in Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques collection, the 222 marked an important point in the Maison’s history. While retaining the distinctive design – along with the nostalgic charm – of the original, the 2025 re-edition in stainless steel is absolutely contemporary, embodying the Maison’s core values with sophisticated refinement, a sense of casual ease and uncompromising commitment to the quest for excellence.

“By kicking off its 270th anniversary with this iconic timepiece – one that is vintage yet resolutely contemporary – the Maison is weaving past and present together.”- Alexandra Vogler

TECHNICAL DATA

Historiques 222

Reference: 4200H/222A-B934
Calibre: 2455/2
Developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding, 22K 3N yellow gold dedicated oscillating weight 26.2 mm (111⁄4‘’’) diameter, 3.6 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour)
194 components
27 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications: Hours, minutes, date

Case: Stainless steel
37 mm diameter, 7.95 mm thick
18K yellow gold Maltese cross placed at 5 o’clock
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 5 bar (approx. 50 metres)

Dial: Blue
White gold polished Maltese cross applied to the dial
White gold hour-markers and hands highlighted with Supe-LumiNova® (off-white during the day and lime green at night)

Bracelet: Stainless steel, vertical satin finished
Buckle: Stainless steel triple-blade folding clasp Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle tourbillon High Jewellery

Posted on November 25, 2024 by Eyesontime

High Watchmaking showcased by jewellery prowess

A watch from the Traditionnelle collection entirely paved with more than 300 baguette-cut diamonds.

A technical tourbillon timepiece powered by ultra-thin Calibre 2160, enhanced by the splendour of its invisible setting.

A creation that embodies all the watchmaking mastery and decorative expertise of the Maison’s cherished artistic crafts.

Vacheron Constantin has enhanced the Traditionnelle collection with a tourbillon High Jewellery model powered by ultra-thin Calibre 2160. This technical timepiece is enhanced by exceptional mastery in the art of invisible gemsetting. All case components are paved with baguette-cut diamonds, from lugs to caseband, from bezel to clasp and from the crown to the dial with its radiant motif. This Traditionnelle tourbillon High Jewellery timepiece reflects Vacheron Constantin’s own approach to High watchmaking.

High Watchmaking meets High Jewellery

A Vacheron Constantin watch cannot be technical without being precious. Over the course of the Maison’s more than two and a half centuries of existence, this attitude has constantly stimulated its creativity. Born at the height of the Age of Enlightenment, this philosophy specific to Vacheron Constantin was nurtured in particular by La Fabrique, a unique organisation encompassing more than 5,000 watchmaking and goldsmithing professionals in 18th-century Geneva. Today, Vacheron Constantin continues to perpetuate this legacy through timepieces whose aesthetics stem from research that is equally thorough in exploring decorative arts as in ensuring smooth mechanical operation.

With the Traditionnelle tourbillon High Jewellery watch, this approach finds an exceptional new interpretation. Entirely paved with baguette-cut diamonds, this timepiece offers a remarkable symbiosis between expertise in artistic crafts and mastery of horological complications. The tourbillon regulator equipping its ultra-thin movement serves as a visual starting point for the gemsetting adorning the dial and which blossoms like a sparkling corolla. This composition is complemented by a sloping inner bezel ring and bezel that are likewise gemset, as indeed are the crown, lugs, caseband and clasp.

The magic of invisible setting

For this latest watch joining the collection, invisible setting was chosen to highlight the distinctive structure of its ornamentation. Invented in the early 20th century, this technique consists of setting perfectly calibrated stones so that the metal prongs serving as visible fastening points vanish, hence its name. Instead, master jewellers fashion T-shaped rails (channels), while the gems are cut with a groove on each side of the culet – the bottom facet of the stone. The gems are then slid one by one between the channels to form diamond paving with no visible joints.

For the setting to be perfect, the gems must be cut with absolute precision. This is a major challenge for this watch, whose radiating setting plane requires multiple calibrations of the baguette-cut diamonds that are increasingly larger the further away they are from the tourbillon. The same difficulty is found on the lugs with their trapeze-shaped baguette-cut diamonds, as well as on the caseband that was the object of specific research and cutting to enable vertical positioning of the gems. The crown is also entirely invisible-set on both the edge and front, where the diamonds have been specifically cut to fit between the polished flanks of the Maltese cross. In all, this Traditionnelle tourbillon High Jewellery is adorned with more than 300 diamonds (~27.11 cts), resulting from exceptional gemsetting craftsmanship.

An ultra-thin tourbillon calibre

Paired with a dark grey alligator leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching, this watch measures 41 mm in diameter, making it suitable for all wrists, not least because it is so slim (12.46 mm). The latter is made possible by Calibre 2160, the first self-winding tourbillon movement developed by the Maison. In addition to the elegance of its openworked carriage shaped like the Manufacture’s Maltese cross emblem, Calibre 2160 is distinguished by its extreme slenderness: ultra-thin movement featuring a total of 188 components measures just 5.65 mm thick and has an 80-hour power reserve. The steady beating of its mechanism operating at the moderate frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) can be admired through the sapphire caseback, notably thanks to the peripheral 18K gold oscillating weight featuring a Clous de Paris hobnail guilloché pattern and serving to reduce the overall thickness.

The same quest for perfection has been applied to the finishing of the movement, with a circular-grained mainplate on the dial side and hand-bevelled bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève on the back. The gear train wheels are circular satin-finished, while the screws are chamfered and polished. Inspired by the Maison’s emblem, the tourbillon with its carriage bearing the small seconds indicated by a blackened screw features exceptional finishing lavished on all its components. One example is rounding off, which consists in filing the tourbillon bar to achieve a conical and semi-cylindrical shape, entirely hand-crafted to meet the criteria required by Vacheron Constantin.

Traditionnelle Tourbillon High Jewellery

Reference
6057T/000G-H067

Calibre
2160
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
Peripheral rotor
30.4 mm (13½’’’) diameter, 5.65 mm thick
Approximately 80 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour)
188 components
30 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon carriage
Tourbillon

Case
18K white gold case set with 144 baguette-cut diamonds on sides, lugs and bezel
041 mm diameter, 12.46 mm thick
Crown set with 16 baguette-cut diamonds
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial
18K white gold set with 158 baguette-cut diamonds
18K white gold hours & minutes hands
Black screw on tourbillon carriage for seconds indication

Strap
Dark grey Mississippiensis alligator with alligator inner shell, saddle-finish, large square scales

Buckle
18K white gold folding clasp, set with 16 baguette-cut diamonds

Total diamond-setting
334 diamonds, for a total weight of approx. 27.11 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)

Available only in Vacheron Constantin Boutiques

Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Asian culture, seasons and wood marquetry

Posted on November 18, 2024 by Eyesontime

The Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin (divine time) series explore the notion of time in its various cultural and conceptual perceptions: physical and linear like a chronology; astronomical and cyclical like the seasons; metaphysical in the infinite stretching of the present moment. For each of these interpretations, Vacheron Constantin offers a journey towards different cultural horizons, a horological odyssey punctuated by the mechanics of time and staged by artistic crafts. To embody cyclical time, composed of alternating astronomical phenomena, declines and rebirths, Vacheron Constantin has opted for the succession of seasons. Each of the latter is symbolised by a sacred animal from traditional Asian culture, highlighted by wood marquetry. The timepieces feature a tourbillon regulator driven by ultra-thin Calibre 2160.

Sacred animals to symbolise the four seasons

The rhythm of the seasons and years is of highly symbolic importance in Asian cultures, often associated with mythological creatures and the signs of the zodiac. Within such a cosmogony, the celestial ecliptic – the imaginary line corresponding to the visible movement of the Sun as seen from the Earth – is divided into four sections of seven constellations, each represented by its sacred animal: the Azure Dragon, symbol of strength and power for the East and spring; the Vermilion Bird, symbol of luck and prosperity for the South and summer; the White Tiger, symbol of seriousness and courage for the West and autumn; as well as the Black Tortoise, symbol of wisdom and longevity for the North and winter. These animals took shape under the marquetry artisan’s hand, inspired by the murals in the Kitora burial mound in Japan, a circular tomb dating from the 7th century CE and depicting these mythical animals.

A combination of decorative arts and mechanical engineering.

The marquetry artisan’s work involves using different types of wood in a variety of shades that are cut, organised, assembled and applied according to the motif to be created. The process involves 150 types of wood covering around 60 natural colours, sheets of veneer preserved at the right temperature and humidity. For these Les Cabinotiers timepieces, and depending on the dial, ten to 12 types were selected: sycamore, padauk, hornbeam, tulip tree, blue myrtle, eucalyptus, maple, burl wood, oak, walnut… some of which were stained or even heated to obtain the right colour.

The artisan begins by reproducing the motif on a scale four times the size of the dial. The lines must be clean and accurate before the design is reduced to its correct proportions and printed in as many copies as are needed for cutting. This is done on tracing paper for each of the pieces composing the marquetry, taking care to leave the perimeter clear. The next and most delicate stage consists of applying these tracings to a stack of ten or so layers of veneer, each 0.6 mm thick, sawn in one piece to facilitate cutting. The operation is performed using a pedal-operated scroll saw, the aim being to divide the tenth-of-a-millimetre design line into two. Finally, the delicately sanded and sometimes previously heated or tinted components are assembled like a jigsaw puzzle. At this stage, they are no more than 0.4 mm thick and, in some cases, not much wider. They are then glued to the final substrate before being sanded down to level and varnished.

This to the millimetre-accurate wood marquetry is even more complex in that it often requires a very large number of components, averaging more than 200 tiny parts from eight to ten different species for each dial. Making a dragon, for example, requires a piece of wood for each of its scales.

In all, it takes a month and a half to make a single dial.

The slim case of the four models is the result of ultra-thin Calibre 2160, measuring 5.65mm thick. Operating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour, it offers an 80-hour power reserve by a winding mechanism coupled to a peripheral rotor. This open architecture of the 188-component movement reveals the level of finishing applied to this High Watchmaking mechanism, with a circular-grained plate on the dial side and hand-bevelled bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève on the back. The gear train wheels are circular satin-finished, the screws chamfered and polished, while the tourbillon bar with its Maltese cross-shaped carriage bearing the small seconds indicated by a blackened screw is delicately rounded off by hand.

TECHNICAL DATA

Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon – Ode to the four Guardians “Azure Dragon”
Reference 6040C/000G-153C
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Caliber 2160
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical self-winding
31.00 mm diameter, 5.60 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 80 hours
2.5 Hz (18’000 vibrations/hour)
188 components
30 jewels
22K gold peripheral oscillating weight
Indications Hours and minutes
Tourbillon
Small seconds on tourbillon carriage (coloured screw)
Case 18K white gold
42 mm diameter, 11.40 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Dial Wood marquetry dial (blue-tinted tulip tree, brosimum rubescens, padouk, blue-tinted
dappled eucalyptus, blue-tinted speckled sycamore maple, sky-blue-tinted tulip
tree, hornbeam, natural sycamore, blue myrtle burr, amarelo), representing the Azure
Dragon
Strap Blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched,
saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp 18K white gold folding clasp
Presentation box & accessory Les Cabinotiers model
Unique timepiece
Pièce unique, Les Cabinotiers and AC hallmark engraved on the back of the timepiece

Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon – Ode to the four Guardians “Vermilion Bird”
Reference 6040C/000R-152C
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Caliber 2160
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical self-winding
31.00 mm diameter, 5.60 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 80 hours
2.5 Hz (18’000 vibrations/hour)
188 components
30 jewels
22K gold peripheral oscillating weight
Indications Hours and minutes
Tourbillon
Small seconds on tourbillon carriage (coloured screw)
Case 18K 5N pink gold
42 mm diameter, 11.40 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Dial Wood marquetry dial (brosimum rubescens, red-tinted poplar burr, amboina burr,
red-tinted sycamore maple, red zebrano, red-tinted eucalyptus, thuja burr, hornbeam,
amarelo), representing the Vermillon bird
Strap Dark red Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-
stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Presentation box & accessory Les Cabinotiers model
Unique timepiece
Pièce unique, Les Cabinotiers and AC hallmark engraved on the back of the timepiece

Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon – Ode to the four Guardians “White Tiger”
Reference 6040C/000R-155C
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Caliber 2160
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical self-winding
31.00 mm diameter, 5.60 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 80 hours
2.5 Hz (18’000 vibrations/hour)
188 components
30 jewels
22K gold peripheral oscillating weight
Indications Hours and minutes
Tourbillon
Small seconds on tourbillon
Case 18K 5N pink gold
42 mm diameter, 11.40 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Dial Wood marquetry dial (anthracite speckled maple, white-tinted speckled maple,
bleached flamed sycamore, bleached Madrona burr, natural sycamore maple,
amaranth, padouk, brosimum rubescens, heated hornbeam, blue-tinted tulip tree),
representing the white Tiger
Strap Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-
stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp
Presentation box & accessory Les Cabinotiers model
Unique timepiece
Pièce unique, Les Cabinotiers and AC hallmark engraved on the back of the timepiece

Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon – Ode to the four Guardians “Black Tortoise”
Reference 6040C/000G-157C
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Caliber 2160
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical self-winding
31.00 mm diameter, 5.60 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 80 hours
2.5 Hz (18’000 vibrations/hour)
188 components
30 jewels
22K gold peripheral oscillating weight
Indications Hours and minutes
Tourbillon
Small seconds on tourbillon carriage (coloured screw)
Case 18K white gold
42 mm diameter, 11.40 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Dial Wood marquetry dial (amarelo, grey-tinted speckled maple, grey myrtle burr,
grey-tinted oak, green-tinted tulip tree, tulip tree burr, blond walnut, pink-tinted tulip
tree, natural sycamore maple, anthracite myrtle burr, padouk, brosimum rubescens),
representing the black tortoise
Strap Black Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-
stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp 18K white gold folding clasp
Presentation box & accessory Les Cabinotiers model
Unique timepiece
Pièce unique, Les Cabinotiers and AC hallmark engraved on the back of the timepiece

Métiers d’Art – Tribute to traditional symbols – Eternal flow: cloisonné enamelling and engraving

Posted on August 14, 2024 by Eyesontime

Métiers d’Art: Tribute to traditional symbols

Vacheron Constantin pays tribute to ancient Chinese culture with its new Métiers d’Art – Tribute to traditional symbols series, featuring two
interpretations of the “Seawater Cliff”, a legendary Chinese motif that first appeared in the 14th century. This depiction of wave-lashed cliffs belongs to the cultural tradition of Imperial China, a special field of study for Mr. Song, the Former Associate Research Librarian of the Palace Museum, who guided the Vacheron Constantin artisans on this project. Housed in a 38 mm- diameter case in 18K pink or white gold, powered by Calibre 2460 driving central hours and minutes hands, these dials provide a forceful, beautiful expression of Chinese cultural symbolism.

A series of four limited-edition watches, created in close collaboration with the Former Associate Research Librarian of Palace
Museum housed in Beijing’s Forbidden City.
A cultural tribute with the representation of the “Seawater Cliff” motif, a decorative symbol specific to the imperial court of the Ming
and Qing dynasties.
The creative expression of the Maison’s profound attachment to the world of artistic crafts and culture through its master artisans.

A fruitful cultural collaboration

The Métiers d’Art – Tribute to traditional symbols series offers a journey into the history and culture of China’s last two Imperial dynasties, from the 14th to the early 20th centuries. To immerse itself in the distinctive decor of this period, the Maison took a particular interest in the decorative arts and notably in the “Seawater Cliff” motif omnipresent on courtly architectural elements, but also on furniture and porcelain, as well as on imperial clothing and particularly the so-called ‘dragon’ robes. These richly embroidered silk ceremonial garments conveyed distinctive symbolism according to their motifs.

For this research work, the Maison benefited from the advice of Mr. Song, the Former Associate Research Librarian of Palace Museum housed in Beijing’s Forbidden City.

In agreement with this expert in Chinese history and symbolism, studies on the dials of the four Métiers d’Art limited editions focused on the “Seawater Cliff” motif. Extensively documented by Mr. Song, this depiction features a mountain towering above the tides with their ebb and flow lashing its cliffs. Embroidered on the lower hem and cuffs of the robe, this ornamentation was regarded as auspicious for those who wore it.

A cultural tribute

Although water and mountains inspired the decoration of various artefacts in China as early as the Neolithic period – and were represented in an increasingly figurative way throughout the first millennium AD – the combination of the two came later. It was with the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties that the motif really took shape. Officially named “Seawater Cliff” under Emperor Wanli (1573-1620), it was reserved for the Imperial family. As its name suggests, this motif refers to the sea, its tides represented by long undulating lines that come crashing down in powerful surges against the cliff.

Symbolising the emperor’s immutability faced with the vagaries of life, these overhanging mountain cliffs are unaffected by the waves.

In Chinese, the words ‘tide’ and ‘dynasty’ are homonyms, while the word ‘cliff’ can also mean ‘ginger buds’ – of which one can recognise the outline on the edge of this escarpment overlooking the sea. In Chinese tradition, water and mountains are also strong territorial symbols. With this “Seawater Cliff” motif richly emblazoned on his ceremonial robes the emperor embodied stability. Like the unshakeable cliff above the waves, a symbol of peace and longevity, he was the guarantor of the country’s fortune and prosperity. This motif became very popular and spread across all social classes in furniture, sculpture, decorative objects and architecture.

An ode to craftsmanship

Beating at the heart of the 38 mm-diameter case in 18K pink and white gold is in-house Calibre 2460, chosen for its aesthetic appeal and compact dimensions (26.2 mm in diameter and 3.60 mm thick). The movement’s configuration driving central hands ensures seamless integration with the dial to give scope and depth to the passing hours and minutes. Endowed with a 40-hour power reserve, it meets all the criteria of the Hallmark of Geneva certifying both origin and horological expertise. The 22K gold rotor echoes the symbolism of the dial, since the oscillating weight is delicately engraved with a motif recalling the movement of waves and tides.

Métiers d’Art – Tribute to traditional symbols – Eternal flow: cloisonné enamelling and engraving

Against a star-studded night sky, the mountain peaks, bordered by vegetation in the shape of ginger buds, are caressed by tidal waves. With its colourful aesthetic and respect for traditional Chinese ornamentation, this depiction is a masterpiece of cloisonné enamelling, which was originated in China. The technique is also named Jingtai Blue , which pays tribute to its heyday which is in the era of Emperor Jingtai in the Ming Dynasty. The latter technique was a natural choice because of the flexibility it offers in terms of both the choice of colours and the graphic design of the intricate shapes.

Laying the 220 gold wires used to delineate the enamelling fields forming the “Seawater Cliff” motif along requires more than 50 hours of work to shape the motif. This is followed by the enamelling itself in successive layers according to colour and intensity, with a kiln firing between each operation. It takes no less than 70 hours to achieve the rich tones that are so characteristic of this piece. A final polish then completes the work to highlight the gold cloisonné that gives substance to the motif. Finally, a translucent enamel coating instils a unique glow into this highly architectural composition, enhanced by the finesse of the lines and ancestral expertise.

To highlight this enamelling work, the bezel of the model is entirely hand-engraved with a bat motif. In Chinese, ‘bat’ and ‘happiness’ have similar pronunciations – which goes some way to explaining the status of this animal as a harbinger of good fortune. In Chinese decoration, five bats are often seen together, traditionally expressing the “Five Good Fortunes”: longevity, wealth, stability, virtue and happiness. On this watch, the engraver has depicted the bat in the form of a frieze composed of successive volutes representing the animal’s characteristic silhouette.

Métiers d’Art – Tribute to traditional symbols – Moonlight slivers: Grand Feu enameling, engraving and gemsetting

For this second “Seawater Cliff” motif, the aim was to achieve a depth effect on a monochrome base. Crafted in 18K white or pink gold depending on the model, the all-in-one-piece dial features hollowed waves, blue enamelled parts and raised diamond-set sections for the mountain area. The master artisan has used a blend of techniques to create this composition, endowing the motif with a subtle yet distinctive aesthetic.

The gold dial is divided into three parts. The first, which delineates the sea, is made of deep-blue Grand Feu enamel applied in successive kiln-fired layers. This is followed by patient engraving. The technique used for this depiction of waves is engraving on enamel to create volutes. These are then accentuated by the master artisan, who fills in the furrows with white enamel that is then also fired. This extremely thin layer creates a subtle shadow on a delicately textured background, creating the impression of a sea in motion.

The second part, devoted to the sea tides running along the mountain range, is reserved for the setting. Each sea tide is delicately hand-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, evoking the moon slivers that inspired the name of this piece. Meanwhile, the third part of the dial serves to add relief, with a mountain range lashed by foaming waves. Meticulously engraved with tone-on-tone champlevé enamel inlays to accentuate the depth of the landscape, this portrayal of the mountains is also worked in drypoint to accentuate the perspective effect.

The sparkling brilliant-cut diamonds adorning the sea tides exude an ashen moonlight gleam, echoed by the setting of the bezel entirely adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds.

Interview with Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director

How did you come up with the “Seawater Cliff” motif?

The Vacheron Constantin design department wanted to explore traditional Chinese symbolism for this new Métiers d’Art series. The aim was to complement the existing offer often found on watch dials celebrating Chinese New Year. In the course of this research, it became clear that the decoration of ancient imperial palaces and the court’s ceremonial robes offered some interesting avenues to explore, as confirmed by the contacts established with Mr. Song. This former researcher and scholar at the Palace Museum in Beijing is a specialist in Chinese symbolism. He visited the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin in Geneva to provide the Maison’s teams with valuable input. It was during these exchanges that the “Seawater Cliff” motif came to the fore. Mr. Song provided the necessary documentation and sound advice for the Maison to interpret this motif in two different ways. While each has its own character, they both share a common symbolism.

What determined the choice of artistic crafts?

The “Seawater Cliff” motif, as seen in Imperial architecture and ceremonial robes, is graphically very strong and richly coloured. This motif features a composition of sinuous lines for the tides, interwoven volutes for the waves lashing the cliffs and vertical structures for the mountain range above. This meant calling upon techniques capable of transcribing both the vast chromatic palette of this decoration and all its complexity. For the first Métiers d’Art – Tribute to traditional symbols – Eternal flow timepiece, the cloisonné enamel technique, which originated in China, was the natural choice due to the flexibility it affords in the choice of colours and the graphic creation of highly elaborate shapes. For the dial of the Métiers d’Art – Tribute to traditional symbols – Moonlight slivers watch, the aim was to achieve a depth effect on a monochrome base. Engraving is the only way to achieve this kind of result, with recessed enamelled and gemset parts and others in relief to accentuate the 3D effect, which is achieved here using a ‘flat wash’ uniform layer of paint in a single colour.

Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art series often draw inspiration from history and ancient civilisations, as is the case with this new series. Is there any particular reason behind this?

As Vacheron Constantin explains, these Métiers d’Art series celebrate decorative techniques applied to watchmaking and jewellery, while inspired by art, history and culture. The interesting thing about history is that ancient civilisations reached an extreme level of sophistication in decorative techniques. Often, some of these techniques have even gradually vanished with the industrialisation and digitalisation of our societies. It’s up to a Maison like Vacheron Constantin, which is strongly committed to preserving artistic craftsmanship, to highlight these techniques by drawing inspiration from the most accomplished creations in this field. In the case of this Tribute to traditional symbols series, the main focus was on embroidery work. By reproducing these ancient motifs on a watch dial, the Maison’s teams and artisans are obliged to demonstrate creativity in order to preserve the spirit of the motifs, while at the same time shining a spotlight on these incredibly rich Imperial garments, symbols of a key period in Chinese history.

Métiers d’Art – Tribute to traditional symbols – Eternal flow

References 2400A/000R-H024, 2400A/000G-H023
Calibre 2460
Manufacture calibre
Mechanical, self-winding
26.2 mm (11 ¼’’’) diameter, 3.6 mm thick
Approx. 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
182 components
27 jewels
Indications Hours, minutes
Case 18K 5N pink gold
18K white gold
38 mm diameter, 9.88 mm thick
Hand-engraved bezel
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial 18K 5N pink gold
18K white gold
Cloisonné enamel
Straps/Buckles Delivered with burgundy or dark blue alligator leather strap with stitches of the
same colour
Alligator leather lining
Each strap is equipped with an 18K 5N pink gold/18K white gold folding clasp
Limited Edition of 15 pieces each.

Métiers d’Art – Tribute to traditional symbols – Moonlight slivers

Reference 2405A/000R-H022, 2405A/000G-H021
Calibre 2460
Manufacture calibre
Mechanical, self-winding
26.2 mm (11 ¼’’’) diameter, 3.6 mm thick
Approx. 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
182 components
27 jewels
Indications Hours, minutes
Case 18K 5N pink gold
18K white gold
38 mm diameter, 9.88 mm thick
Diamond-set bezel with 74 brilliant-cut diamonds
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial 18K 5N pink gold
18K white gold
Grand Feu enamel
18K gold hand-engraved motif
Diamond-setting with 239 brilliant-cut diamonds
Straps/Buckles Delivered with dark blue alligator leather strap with stitches of the same colour
Alligator leather lining
Each strap is equipped with an 18K 5N pink gold/18K white gold folding clasp
Total diamond-setting 313 diamonds, totalling approx. 0.9 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)
Limited Edition of 15 pieces each.

#VacheronConstantin
#OneOfNotMany

Unveiling the Power of the Dragon: Nine Exceptional Dragon-Themed Timepieces for the Year 2024

Posted on January 12, 2024 by Eyesontime

In the Chinese zodiac, the Dragon symbolizes strength, luck, and prosperity. As the Year of the Dragon approaches in 2024, several renowned watchmakers have crafted exceptional timepieces to honour this auspicious occasion. Let’s explore nine dragon-themed watches that have captured our attention and earned a coveted spot on our lucky list.

1. IWC Schaffhausen – Portugieser Chronograph Year of the Dragon

The Portugieser Chronograph Year of the Dragon boasts a 41-millimeter stainless steel case, a captivating burgundy dial, and gold-plated hands and appliques. Burgundy, symbolizing the vibrant colour of fire, is a charming shade traditionally used to usher in the Lunar New Year in China, symbolizing longevity and luck. Powering the chronograph is the IWC-manufactured 69355 calibre, a robust and precise mechanical chronograph movement with a classic column-wheel design. A glimpse of the movement through the transparent sapphire case back reveals a standout feature: the gold-plated rotor of the automatic winding system fashioned in the form of a beautifully detailed dragon. Additionally, the case back ring is engraved with “2024 YEAR OF THE DRAGON.”

The Portugieser Chronograph Year of the Dragon comes with two straps: a black calfskin strap and a burgundy rubber strap, allowing the wearer to switch between two distinct looks. Wearing comfort is ensured with a butterfly clasp. Limited to 1000 units, this timepiece captivates with a rotor shaped like a regal dragon, showcased through the transparent sapphire glass case back.

2. Hublot – Spirit of Big Bang Titanium Dragon

Hublot takes on a Chinese trinity: a symbol (eastern Dragon), two ancient art forms (paper cutting and marquetry), and an artist (Chen Fenwan).This exceptional timepiece, limited to a rare 88 pieces, is a captivating embodiment of the ‘Art of Fusion’ and pays homage to the symbolic Year of the Dragon. Hublot, renowned for its innovation and avant-garde approach to watchmaking, collaborates with Chinese artist Chen Fenwan to create a masterpiece that seamlessly blends traditional craftsmanship with contemporary artistry. The dragon motif, expertly crafted by Chen Fenwan, unfolds across the watch’s components — hands, cogs, and screws — arranged in multi-dimensional layers, forming a striking dragon silhouette. Each element is meticulously positioned to create a paper-cut-out representation of this mythical creature. The Dragon’s head, comprised of five layers alternating between hands, wheels, and H-shaped screws, seamlessly extends into its body and scales, which intricately adorn the accompanying strap. Hublot introduces a groundbreaking element — a rubber strap featuring a marquetry design, a first in Hublot’s history.

The Spirit of Big Bang Titanium Dragon, presented in a limited edition of 88 pieces, houses the HUB1710 automatic movement with a power reserve of 50 hours. As an ode to the Chinese New Year, this timepiece not only captures the essence of Hublot’s philosophy — ‘Be First, Unique, and Different’ — but also stands as a testament to the brand’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking and embracing the fusion of art and innovation.

3. Bell & Ross – BR 05 Artline Dragon

This Dragon edition of the BR 05 is not just a watch; it is a celebration of the Year of the Dragon in Chinese astrology. A timepiece that epitomizes contemporary elegance with its fusion of sophisticated design and precision engineering. Powering this exceptional watch is the calibre BR.CAL-321, a mechanical movement with automatic winding, provides a substantial power reserve of 54 hours. The meticulous craftsmanship extends to the watch’s hands, adorned with black lacquer accentuating the Dragon’s distinctive whiskers. Deliberate design choices are evident, with the hour circle strategically positioned on the flange, ensuring that the intricate dragon motif takes centre stage.

A testament to the dedication to artistry and detail, the BR 05’s integrated bracelet and dial undergo a remarkable transformation through an extraordinary laser engraving technique. Each link of the bracelet is individually engraved before assembly, resulting in a seamless and captivating visual experience. The symbolism and craftsmanship embedded in every aspect of the timepiece make it a true collector’s item, blending the precision of watchmaking with the artful execution of design.

4. Ulysse Nardin – Blast Tourbillon Dragon

To mark the Lunar New Year, Ulysse Nardin introduces the Blast Tourbillon Dragon, an innovative creation entwined with the ancient magic of Chinese folklore. This avant-garde timepiece embodies in-house innovations, métiers d’art, and the magic of the Year of the Dragon. The majestic Dragon meets the alluring Pearl, creating a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation. Crafting a 3D dragon seemingly gliding beneath the plains of the gear train and the X structure posed considerable challenges. This intricate endeavour unfolded over a meticulous two-year development process, encompassing the design of a distinctive dial and tailor-made adjustments to the Blast Tourbillon case, bezel, and glass box crystal to accommodate this extraordinary creation seamlessly. Behind the audacious structure of the Dragon and the intricately skeletonized dial lies the Blast Tourbillon’s manufacture movement, Calibre UN-172, a marvel that is as unorthodox as it is ingeniously crafted.

Crafted for those who seek the extraordinary, the Blast Tourbillon Dragon is a limited edition piece that captivates with its unique design and symbolic significance.

5. Vacheron Constantin – Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac: Year of the Dragon

Métiers d’Art, The Legend of the Chinese zodiac – Year of the Dragon limited editions by Vacheron Constantin, stand as captivating tributes to the esteemed astrological symbol. Symbolizing strength, nobility, and success, these two 25-piece editions showcase the fusion of master enamelling and engraving craftsmanship. The painstaking two-year development process involved the intricate sculpting of the gold dial, creating an enchanting depiction of air flows and clouds inspired by traditional Chinese art. The Dragon, a central figure embodying power and luck, is then meticulously hand-engraved against this backdrop. The result is a mesmerizing creation featuring around 300 scales meticulously applied to the Dragon’s body. Adding a spiritual touch, a hand-engraved pearl representing knowledge, wisdom, and abundance completes the scene with finesse.

Each limited edition boasts a unique dial colour achieved through the artistry of the enamelling artisan. The 40 mm-diameter case is crafted in 950 platinum or 18K 5N pink gold, harmonizing with a corresponding Mississipiensis alligator leather strap. The deep blue Grand Feu enamel dial in platinum matches a blue strap, while the pink gold version features a brown Grand Feu enamel dial paired with a tone-on-tone strap.

Underlining Vacheron Constantin’s dedication to artistic expression, the Métiers d’Art collection showcases the self-winding Calibre 2460 G4. This movement, with a hands-free watch face, reveals hours, minutes, days, and dates through four apertures, offering a unique timekeeping experience. The sapphire crystal case-back in platinum or pink gold exposes the meticulous finishing of Calibre 2460 G4, including a 22K gold oscillating weight adorned with the iconic Maltese Cross emblem.

Each watch is a testament to Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to blending traditional craftsmanship with innovative watchmaking technology in the pursuit of artistic excellence.

6. Piaget – Chinese New Year Collection: Dragon and Phoenix

Piaget unveils a new collection to celebrate the Lunar New Year, marking the beginning of a new 12-year cycle in the Chinese Zodiac. Central to the collection are the Altiplano and Emperador models, crafted with great attention to detail and artistry. The Dragon and Phoenix, symbols of masculinity and femininity, strength and power, grace the dials in exquisite enamel and gold-engraved designs.

The artisan Anita Porchet, renowned for her mastery of enamelling, skillfully fashioned the two 38mm Altiplano Zodiac references. Limited to just 38 pieces each, these exquisite timepieces showcase either a dynamic blue Dragon or a resplendent Phoenix adorned with red, pink, and orange hues. Against a backdrop of white and grey mother of pearl, the mythical creatures come to life through the intricate techniques of cloisonné enamelling and gold engraving.

7. Jaquet Droz – Imperial Dragon Automaton Red Gold – Cuprite

To celebrate Chinese New Year 2024, Jaquet Droz collaborates with the talented artistic director of “The Lord of the Rings” and “The Hobbit,” John Howe, who designed the Dragon for their new automaton. The Imperial Dragon Automaton Red Gold – Cuprite is a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation, reflecting the aesthetic and symbolic codes of Chinese culture. The Dragon’s shape, horns, whiskers, and even the number of fingers follow Chinese painting techniques.

A Dial Steeped in Symbolism: On the dial, clouds symbolize the forces of nature, and every detail adheres to the richness of Chinese artistry. A masterpiece that captures the essence of Chinese New Year celebrations.

8. Arnold & Son – Luna Magna Red Gold “Year of the Dragon”

Arnold & Son marks the Year of the Dragon with the Luna Magna Red Gold “Year of the Dragon,” a limited edition comprising eight pieces. Incorporating fine watchmaking, miniature sculpture, and gemstone craftsmanship, this timepiece features an encounter between a dragon and the moon. The Dragon, sculpted from red gold, coils around the dial with meticulous hand-engraving, creating a celestial spectacle.

Mechanical Excellence and Astronomical Precision:Powered by the A&S1021 calibre, the watch offers a 90-hour power reserve and a regulating organ oscillating at a frequency of 3 Hz. The moon function, accessible via the crown, showcases Arnold & Son’s mastery of astronomical accuracy.

9. Bovet – The Récital 26 Chapter Two Golden Dragon

China’s most significant cultural icon, the Dragon, takes centre stage in Bovet’s masterpiece, the Récital 26 Chapter Two. Far from Western fire-breathing monsters, the Chinese Dragon embodies benevolence and magical powers, symbolizing courage, confidence, and success. Born in the Year of the Dragon, individuals like John Lennon, Bruce Lee, and Martin Luther King Jr. are believed to inherit these remarkable traits. Integrating a solid 18K gold dragon into the award-winning timepiece presented unique challenges for BOVET. Amidst complications like the Hour and Minute domed Dial, World Time Hemispheric Dial, and the patented BOVET flying tourbillon, the Technical Office carefully delineated the Dragon’s space. A commissioned sculptor and in-house hand-engravers worked meticulously, taking 40-50 hours to craft intricate details, including eyes, scales, claws, and whiskers. A fiery-red ruby set into the eye adds a final touch to the hand-engraved sculpture.

Dragons, rooted in mythology and symbolizing unity, trace back over 5,000 years to China’s Neolithic Age. The Year of the Dragon in 2024, from February 10th to January 28th, 2025, is anticipated to bring luck and power. The Récital 26 Brainstorm® Chapter Two, featuring Bovet’s patented double-sided flying tourbillon, celebrates the Year of the Dragon with exquisite craftsmanship and mechanical excellence. Limited to 12 pieces worldwide, it reflects the 12 months of the Dragon Year, inviting enthusiasts to dance with the Dragon’s symbolic power.

Embrace the Power of the Dragon in 2024

As the Year of the Dragon unfolds, these exceptional timepieces pay homage to Chinese culture, artistry, and symbolism. From traditional craftsmanship to avant-garde designs, each watch on our lucky list stands as a testament to the fusion of horology and cultural celebration. Whether it’s the precision of IWC Schaffhausen, the boldness of Bell & Ross, or the artistic mastery of Vacheron Constantin, these watches invite you to embrace the power and symbolism of the Dragon in 2024. May the Year of the Dragon bring you prosperity, luck, and the timeless beauty of these remarkable timepieces.

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024

Posted on September 28, 2023 by Eyesontime

55 exhibiting Maisons, 3 days open to the Public

Taking place from April 9 to 15, 2024, the next Watches and Wonders Geneva promises to be a thrilling one, with an enhanced program at the Salon and In The City, specially designed for the general public. The focus will be on the visitor experience, as well as meaningful connection and interaction with the exhibiting Maisons. Several spaces have been expanded, allowing the event to host new brands and welcome the public over 3 full days!

Planning is already well underway for Watches and Wonders Geneva to ensure a unique week for the world of fine watchmaking, with a record 55 watch brands confirmed to take part in 2024. It’s a chance for industry professionals, connoisseurs and enthusiasts to come together, experience the latest products first-hand, engage and build meaningful connections. A new 7-day program has been designed with the Salon opening to the public from Saturday to Monday. Tickets can be purchased online from early February 2024, with student and weekend prices available.

The Watches and Wonders Geneva experience has been reimagined for 2024. It will now encompass two floors and feature new spaces for visitors to explore along with enhanced venues for meeting and discussion.

In addition to prestigious names such as Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe, IWC Schaffhausen and TAG Heuer, six new brands will be exhibiting for the first time, with Bremont on one side and Eberhard & Co, Gerald Charles, Nomos Glashütte, Norqain and Raymond Weil on the other. H. Moser & Cie. will also be making its return to the Carré des Horlogers.

The LAB, which serves as a window into the future of the industry, will take on a new dimension at the heart of the Salon, symbolically representing the importance of technological innovation within the manufactures. Here, startups, schools and engineers will reveal the secrets of tomorrow’s watchmaking. It’s an immersive, tactile and sensory experience for the curious and especially relevant to younger enthusiasts with career aspirations.

The heart of the City will be ticking even louder to the rhythm of watch movements, with a dynamic In The City program. A new Village Horloger will be created to showcase the wonders of fine watchmaking, its crafts, savoir-faire and talents. Major brands will also be joining the festivities with in-store activities featuring presentations and special exhibitions of their finest creations. The evening celebration – with its free concert – will be held on April 11 on the Quai Général-Guisan.

Watches and Wonders Geneva is aimed at all audiences and all ages, with a particular focus on younger generations who have shown a growing interest in the industry. The countdown begins as the whole city is getting ready to once again welcome the watchmaking event of the year!

Online ticketing early February 2024!

EXHIBITING MAISONS
A. LANGE & SÖHNE | ALPINA WATCHES | ANGELUS | ARNOLD & SON | BAUME & MERCIER | BEAUREGARD | BELL & ROSS | BREMONT | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHARLES ZUBER | CHARRIOL | CHOPARD | CHRONOSWISS | CYRUS GENÈVE | CZAPEK & CIE | EBERHARD & CO. | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | FREDERIQUE CONSTANT | GERALD CHARLES | GRAND SEIKO | GRÖNEFELD | H. MOSER & CIE. | HAUTLENCE | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | HYSEK | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET | MONTBLANC | NOMOS GLASHÜTTE | NORQAIN | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PEQUIGNET | PIAGET | RAYMOND WEIL | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE-MARIN | TAG HEUER | TRILOBE | TUDOR | U-BOAT | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH

Watches and Wonders back in Shanghai!

Posted on June 26, 2023 by Eyesontime

A few months after its master event in Geneva, Watches and Wonders is back on the road. It’s off to China, where the Salon will take place in Shanghai from September 13 to 17, 2023. This third edition will feature 14 exhibiting Maisons and for the first time, open its doors to the public over the weekend.

A showcase of creative and dynamic watchmaking, Watches and Wonders Shanghai confirms the event’s proximity to its audience, as well as its ability to promote the watchmaking industry, giving it visibility through a series of immersive experiences.

Lovers of fine watchmaking will once again gather at the West Bund Art Center within a completely redesigned Pavilion. The first three days will be reserved, by invitation only, for retailers, the press and the brands’ end customers, while the general public is expected to attend for the first time on September 16 and 17, 2023 to experience a journey into the heart of time. Tickets will be available from August via the official Watches and Wonders WeChat mini-program, priced at 150 RMB.

Around the true stars of watchmaking, Watches and Wonders Shanghai has built a 360° itinerary encompassing all its dimensions: themed conferences, expert panels, workshops, and presentations of extraordinary expertise. Among the highlights, the exhibition “What time is it?” by Karine Bauzin, will be travelling from Geneva with a selection of some 40 photos. In this ethnographic work, the Swiss artist and photographer questions our relationship with time through a universal gesture.

Rendezvous in Shanghai in September!

Website: watchesandwonders.com

Social media #watchesandwonders2023

Top 10 Salmon Coloured Dials To Look Out For

Posted on March 9, 2023 by Eyesontime

Gone are the days of monochrome watches and dull shades of time.

Today the watch scene is a burst with colours that can elevate the beauty of the timepiece. Brands are constantly looking to keep the watch enthusiasts enthralled and clamouring to outdo each other.

Every year there is a trend, yet sometimes, it is just a whiff of an era gone by that reappears in modern context and time.

Salmon Pink:

Is it the new go-to colour? Watch lovers and collectors have mentioned that the colour has been around since the thirties and yet it has made a reappearance lately, and quite vehemently too.

In 2019, when the popularity of salmon dials took off, the colour PANTONE 16-1546, “Living Coral”, was chosen as the year’s colour. The current dials in the market are all variations of the coral shade.

We put out the bait and some extraordinary timepieces caught it. Let us reel in some of the really warm catches that made it to our Salmon list.

A.Lange & Söhne:

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in 18-carat white gold houses a flyback chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon with a patented stop-seconds mechanism. Caliber: L952.2 Diameter: 41.5 mm

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Audemars Piguet:

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar houses a “Grande Tapisserie” dial with matching subdials in a Titanium case and is a limited edition of 300 pieces. Caliber: 5134 Diameter: 41 mm Water resistance: 20 m

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Breitling:

This Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 is a chronograph from the premier series with its complete calendar and moon phase. “Datora” is a term used by Breitling and refers to a complete calendar chronograph displaying the day, date, month and the different moon phases. The Datora is powered by the COSC-certified Manufacture Caliber: B25 Diameter: 42 mm Water resistance: 10 m

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Czapek:

The Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake S has the exclusive “Stairway to Eternity” dial. Calibre SXH5 is Czapek’s in-house self-winding mechanical movement. Integrated stainless steel bracelet with Czapek exclusive “Easy Release” system and micro-adjustment device. Calibre: SXH5 Diameter: 38.5 mm Water resistance: 120 m

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Grönefeld:

The Grönefeld 1941 Principia Automatic salmon dial, like the other choices, comes in solid sterling silver, housed in the company’s 1941 case in red gold, white gold or stainless steel. With its self-winding movement, the watch successfully harnesses gravity, making it ideal for daily wear. Calibre: G-06 Diameter: 39.5 mm Water resistance: 30 m

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IWC Schaffhausen:

This IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 comes in a compact stainless-steel case diameter of 40 millimetres, with its characteristic elegance. This simple, organised open dial is visually soothing and the minute’s scale and small seconds at 6 o’clock are pretty unintrusive. The dial is a sunray finish. Calibre: 82200 Diameter: 40.4 mm Water resistance: 30 m

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Laurent Ferrier:

This Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit features a salmon pink dial that captures the breath-taking beauty of the sky at sunrise. The architecture of the Grand Sport case in titanium evokes the elegant, timeless curves of racing cars. Calibre: LF619.01 Diameter: 44 mm Water resistance: 100 m

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Montblanc:

Montblanc Heritage Monopusher Chronograph Salmon-coloured domed dial featuring two different finishes gives the timepiece an elegant and sophisticated aesthetic. Comes with black rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes and Minerva Manufacture embossing on the case back. It is a chronograph with central second-hand and a 30-minute counter. Caliber: MB 25.12 Diameter: 42 mm Water resistance: 50 m

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Patek Philippe:

The Patek Philippe 5935A-001 is a self-winding World Time flyback chronograph that indicates the time in 24 time zones. Known as Rose-gilt opaline, the salmon dial is cased in steel with a sapphire crystal case back. It has an exclusive patented mechanism to correct all displays with a single pusher at 10 o’clock. Caliber: CH 28-520 HU Diameter: 41 mm Water resistance: 30 m

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Vacheron Constantin:

The Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5000T/000P-B975 43 MM Platinum contains a column-wheel chronograph and a perpetual calendar. Caliber: 1142 QP Diameter: 43 mm

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20 Days to Watches and Wonders 2022

Posted on March 10, 2022 by Eyesontime

The moment journalists, retailers and clients of the 38 exhibiting Maisons have been waiting for… Watches and Wonders Geneva will finally open its doors on 30 March 2022, for a week filled with exciting discoveries. A vast digital system has been set up to allow invited guests and the general public to follow online either live or via replay all the action of the Salon, which is already shaping up to be THE watch industry event of the year.

While the press, retailers and guests invited to the Salon can already plan their personalized program on the watchesandwonders.com platform, in Geneva the excitement is reaching a fever pitch. The set-up of the different exhibition areas is already underway to ensure that visitors can be welcomed while respecting health measures. In the surrounding manufactures and ateliers, the watchmakers are putting the final details to the new watches and jewelry collections that will be unveiled by the Maisons on March 30.

For its first physical event under the name Watches and Wonders Geneva – since last year’s event was entirely digital – the Salon will focus on major launches, previews, exceptional pieces and numerous new wonders. Aside from being featured in the Touch & Feel sessions, products will also be at the heart of discussions over many organized events, such as the Morning Show, the panel discussions and the innovative projects unveiled in the LAB.

Broadcast live from the Salon every morning at 8 am CET on the watchesandwonders.com platform and on its YouTube channel, The Morning Show will be presented this year by Olivia Chang, a renowned business journalist. She will host this first morning program with cross conversations between brand leaders and industry experts to follow the news of the Salon and decipher new trends. She will be back again at 7 pm CET on the Late Show, a new rendez-vous that will review the day’s highlights. Also broadcast live and in replay, the program will feature a different guest each day, who will be invited to share his or her favorites from the Salon. The Late Show will also offer a summary of the keynotes from the Maisons held in the Auditorium, along with highlights of the exceptional pieces being unveiled by the 38 exhibiting brands.

A daily 45-minute panel discussion, hosted by watchmaking experts and other influential personalities, will explore the issue of sustainable development in greater depth. This theme, a particularly hot topic at the moment, will be addressed from different angles, such as transparency, responsible sourcing, innovation and the circular economy. Broadcast live from the Salon at 1 pm CET on the watchesandwonders.com platform and on its YouTube channel, the program will also be available in replay.

Located in the center of the Salon, facing the Carré des Horlogers, the LAB has been designed as an ideas laboratory. This space, showcasing nearly 15 projects, will present the technological and digital innovations of the exhibiting Maisons. Highlighting eco- responsible sourcing practices, upcycling, the use of new materials, new energy sources and strategic partnerships with sustainable associations and organizations, the various initiatives will enable visitors to discover all these innovations and gain a better understanding of NFTs (Non-Fungible Token) and the world of metaverse.

Watches and Culture will also curate the ‘Time Design’ exhibition dedicated to the evolution of wristwatch design through the ages. Imagined as a journey through watchmaking creativity and illustrated by more than 100 timepieces presented in showcases designed by students of ECAL (École d’art de Lausanne), the event will also pay tribute to the work of Mr. Gérald Genta. Five pieces produced by students of the HEAD art & design school in Geneva will invite visitors to question the display of time, while an augmented reality experience will immerse the viewer in the history of a few watchmaking icons.

A broadcasting area consisting of two fully equipped studios will be available for the Maisons who wish to stay in touch with those journalists who are unable to travel to Geneva. In addition, booths equipped with a VISIODOME, a system that proved its worth last year as an optimized way of presenting products remotely, will allow the Maisons to share their latest creations with a larger audience.

Everyone is working hard to make this long-awaited edition the greatest watchmaking summit ever held in Geneva! Just 30 days to go before discovering new watches and jewelry releases, previews, major announcements, exceptional pieces and other innovations.

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