Patek Philippe Gondolo Ladies First Ref. 7043: Six New Watches

Patek Philippe has introduced six new watches in its Gondolo Ladies First collection, presenting a contemporary interpretation of the brand’s Art Deco-inspired design language through precious metals, diamonds, coloured gemstones and quartz technology.

The new collection revisits the spirit of the 2009 Ladies First Chronograph Ref. 7071 while taking a distinctly jewellery-focused approach. According to Patek Philippe, the watches were conceived around President Thierry Stern’s desire to offer women an easy-to-wear jewellery watch that combines refined gem-setting with the practicality of a quartz movement.

A modern interpretation of the Gondolo

The Gondolo has a long association with Patek Philippe’s design history. Originating during the Art Deco era and created for the Brazilian market during the Manufacture’s golden age of design, the collection has appeared in cushion, square, rectangular and tonneau forms.

The new Gondolo Ladies First watches use a fully polished, cushion-shaped gold case with rounded contours and articulated lugs. The design combines square and circular forms while maintaining the slender profile made possible by the thin quartz movement. The articulated lugs are designed to allow the case to sit flush against the wrist.

The six new references are divided into two groups: three models with diamond-set dials and three Joaillerie models featuring extensive diamond-setting across the dial, case and lugs. They join two existing Haute Joaillerie versions featuring pearls and diamonds.

Three diamond-set dial models

The first three watches combine opaline dials with a diamond-set flange containing 108 diamonds. The stones follow the contours of the sloping flange, with graduated sizes and near-invisible grain settings.

The references are:

  • Ref. 7043G-001: white gold case, blue-gray opaline dial and matching blue-gray calfskin strap with a denim pattern and contrasting white stitching.
  • Ref. 7043R-001: rose gold case, chestnut opaline dial and matching chestnut calfskin strap with a denim pattern and contrasting cream stitching.
  • Ref. 7043GR-001: white gold case with rose gold lugs and crown, silvery opaline dial and grained beige calfskin strap.

Each dial features a concentric wave pattern, creating a textured surface beneath the faceted trapeze-shaped hour markers. Leaf-shaped hands complete the design.

The technical specifications are shared across the three references: a Caliber E15 quartz movement, measuring 15 x 13 mm and 1.8 mm thick, with 57 components and six jewels. The movement operates at a frequency of 32,768 Hz and uses a 1.55 V silver oxide battery with an approximately three-year battery life.

The watches measure 31 x 34.8 mm, have a thickness of 8.03 mm, feature solid case backs and are water-resistant to 30 metres.

Joaillerie versions bring colour and diamonds

The three Joaillerie references take the collection considerably further into jewellery-watch territory. Their cases, dials and lugs are set with diamonds, while coloured gemstones form the hour markers.

Patek Philippe specifies 687 brilliant-cut diamonds across each Joaillerie watch. The diamond-setting includes 253 diamonds on the case and lugs, 108 diamonds illuminating the dial flange and 303 diamonds arranged around the centre of the dial.

The three versions are:

  • Ref. 7043/250G-001: white gold with blue topaz hour markers and a shiny peacock-blue alligator strap.
  • Ref. 7043/250R-001: rose gold with green tsavorite hour markers and a shiny green alligator strap.
  • Ref. 7043/250GR-001: white and rose gold with purple amethyst hour markers and a shiny purple alligator strap.

The gemstones are set as trapeze-shaped hour markers in gold settings. Patek Philippe says the construction allows light to pass through the gemstones, enhancing their colour. The hands receive an ALD, or Atomic Layer Deposition, treatment and are matched visually with the coloured straps.

687 diamonds, plus coloured gemstones

The technical specifications provide a detailed breakdown of the Joaillerie setting.

For the Ref. 7043/250R-001, the watch contains:

  • 411 diamonds on the dial and dial flange, totalling 1.37 carats
  • 12 trapeze-cut tsavorites, totalling 0.22 carat
  • 253 diamonds on the case, totalling 1.56 carats
  • 23 diamonds on the buckle, totalling 0.18 carat
  • 687 diamonds in total, totalling 3.11 carats
  • 12 trapeze-cut tsavorites totalling 0.22 carat

The Ref. 7043/250G-001 uses 12 trapeze-cut topazes totalling 0.2 carat, while retaining the same 687-diamond, 3.11-carat total. The Ref. 7043/250GR-001 uses 12 trapeze-cut amethysts totalling 0.17 carat, again with 687 diamonds weighing a total of 3.11 carats.

The straps continue the colour theme: shiny green alligator for the tsavorite model, shiny peacock blue for the topaz version and hand-stitched shiny purple alligator for the amethyst model. Each buckle is set with diamonds.

Quartz at the heart of the collection

While the Gondolo name carries substantial mechanical-watch heritage, the new Ladies First models use Patek Philippe’s E15 quartz movement.

Patek Philippe describes the E15 as combining precision and ease of use. According to the Manufacture, 20% of the movement’s components are electronic, while the remaining 80% are manufactured using methods also employed for its mechanical calibres.

The movement provides hours and minutes, with the crown pulled out to set the time. Its approximately three-year battery life is specified for a new battery.

Gem-setting as a central part of the design

Patek Philippe states that the diamonds and coloured gemstones are selected according to its criteria and in line with GIA standards, with attention given to clarity, colour, proportions and finish.

The diamond-setting is carried out in the Manufacture’s own gem-setting ateliers. The press material says the setters use specialised gem-setting microscopes to achieve the required precision.

That emphasis is particularly visible in the Joaillerie watches, where the diamond arrangement extends from the case to the dial and buckle rather than being confined to a single decorative element.

A new campaign for Patek Philippe’s ladies’ collection

The Gondolo Ladies First collection also marks the inaugural appearance alongside Patek Philippe’s new “IAM. I WEAR.” campaign.

Created by London-based Leagas Delaney, the campaign is directed toward the modern woman and accompanies the introduction of the new watches. Patek Philippe also states that a short film supports the launch and was directed by Mona Fastvold and Brady Corbet.

A Gondolo collection shaped around colour, jewellery and wearability

With the six new references, Patek Philippe combines the Gondolo’s historic cushion-shaped silhouette with contemporary colour and jewellery design. The three diamond-set models take a relatively restrained approach, pairing 108-diamond flanges with textured opaline dials, while the three Joaillerie references transform the same basic architecture with hundreds of diamonds and coloured gemstone hour markers.

The result is a collection that connects the Gondolo’s Art Deco heritage with a modern jewellery-watch format, while retaining the practical specifications of the E15 quartz movement.

Hublot Big Bang Original Soft Touch: All Red & All Black

Hublot introduces the Big Bang Original Soft Touch, a new interpretation of its iconic Big Bang Original that brings a tactile dimension to the collection. Available in All Red and All Black, the new watches use an exclusive textured rubber compound across the case, bezel, dial and strap, creating a distinctive soft-touch surface. Hublot describes the material as neither a coating nor a surface treatment, but as a new approach to constructing the watch.

A New Sensory Expression of the Big Bang Original

The Big Bang Original Soft Touch remains rooted in the unmistakable design of the original Big Bang, introduced in 2005, while incorporating two decades of Hublot innovation. For the first time, the watch is designed not only to be seen, but also to be felt.

The defining feature is Hublot’s exclusive textured rubber compound. Developed using a dedicated overmoulding process, specially engineered tooling integrates the texture directly into the material during production. Its microscopic surface structure consists of thousands of fine micro-elements, creating a remarkably soft tactile finish while maintaining the durability and resistance associated with Hublot’s signature rubber.

The textured material extends across multiple elements of the watch, including the case, bezel, dial and strap. The result is a cohesive visual and tactile identity rather than a conventional surface treatment.

Big Bang Original Soft Touch All Red

The Big Bang Original Soft Touch All Red brings Hublot’s distinctive red aesthetic into this new tactile format. Hublot positions the model as a tribute to its material expertise, particularly its development of vividly coloured high-tech ceramic, introduced in 2018. The All Red Soft Touch instead creates its visual and tactile character through titanium combined with the exclusive soft-touch rubber.

The watch features a 43 mm titanium case overmoulded in red rubber with a velvet effect, with a matching red rubber dial with a velvet effect. The strap combines black rubber with red structured rubber with a velvet effect, and the watch is secured by a titanium deployant buckle clasp.

The official reference for the All Red model is 431.RXR.2770.RX.VEL. It has a water resistance rating of 100 metres / 10 ATM and uses a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment.

Powered by the HUB1280 UNICO

Inside the Big Bang Original Soft Touch is Hublot’s HUB1280 UNICO Manufacture Self-winding Chronograph Flyback Movement with Column Wheel. The movement is developed entirely in-house and incorporates a column wheel, dual-clutch architecture, layered construction, an optimised gear train and a skeletonised tungsten rotor open-worked in the shape of an H.

The movement provides an approximately 72-hour power reserve. The HUB1280 UNICO has a thickness of 6.75 mm, a diameter of 30.00 mm, 354 components and 43 jewels, with a frequency of 4 Hz, or 28,800 vibrations per hour.

The 43 mm case combines the architecture of the original Big Bang with contemporary refinements, including bevelled edges, curved and smoother lugs, a rubber-clad crown and rectangular pushers with Hublot’s signature rubber inserts. The strap also incorporates Hublot’s One Click system for interchangeability.

All Black: A Monochromatic Classic Reimagined

Alongside the All Red, Hublot introduces the Big Bang Original Soft Touch All Black. The model continues the history of Hublot’s All Black concept, which was introduced in 2006 as a monochromatic expression in which the absence of colour emphasised form, architecture and identity.

For the Soft Touch version, the monochromatic approach is combined with a deep black titanium case, black DLC-coated pushers and the new textured rubber construction. As with the All Red, the objective is not simply a change in colour, but a different sensory experience.

The All Black carries reference 431.RXN.2740.RX.VEL. It measures 43 mm in diameter and 13.2 mm in thickness, offers 100 metres / 10 ATM of water resistance and is powered by the HUB1280 UNICO Manufacture Self-winding Chronograph.

Material Innovation at the Hublot Manufacture

The Big Bang Original Soft Touch forms part of Hublot’s broader Art of Fusion approach to materials. The Manufacture has developed watches using materials including coloured ceramics, sapphire and Magic Gold, and the Soft Touch introduces another material-focused development centred on sensation as well as appearance.

The Big Bang Original Soft Touch is conceived, developed and assembled at the Hublot Manufacture in Nyon. Hublot also extends the tactile concept to the presentation case, which features a matching textured Hublot logo that echoes the surface of the watch’s soft-touch rubber.

The collection is available through selected Hublot points of sale and online.

Hublot Big Bang Original Soft Touch: Specifications

Specification All Red All Black
Reference 431.RXR.2770.RX.VEL 431.RXN.2740.RX.VEL
Case Titanium overmoulded in red rubber with velvet effect Titanium overmoulded in black rubber with velvet effect
Diameter 43 mm 43 mm
Thickness 13.2 mm 13.2 mm
Water resistance 100 m / 10 ATM 100 m / 10 ATM
Movement HUB1280 UNICO Manufacture Self-winding Chronograph Flyback HUB1280 UNICO Manufacture Self-winding Chronograph
Power reserve Approx. 72 hours 72 hours
Dial Red rubber with velvet effect Black rubber with velvet effect
Strap Black rubber and red structured rubber with velvet effect Black structured rubber with velvet effect

Conclusion

With the Big Bang Original Soft Touch, Hublot takes one of its most recognisable designs into a new sensory territory. The combination of the Big Bang’s established architecture, an exclusive textured rubber compound and the in-house HUB1280 UNICO movement gives the new collection a distinct identity centred on material innovation.

The All Red and All Black versions express the same concept through two of Hublot’s strongest colour signatures: one vivid and expressive, the other deliberately monochromatic. In both cases, the defining idea is simple: material innovation that can be seen, and felt.

Blancpain brings back the vintage spirit of the Bathyscaphe with a 70th anniversary limited edition

Born from the golden age of recreational diving, the Bathyscaphe embodies the typical skin diver codes through its balance of elegance and everyday wearability. Created in 1956 as the civilian counterpart to the Fifty Fathoms, the model bore a name that had already been registered in 1953 by Blancpain’s then-CEO and passionate diver, Jean-Jacques Fiechter, reflecting his early vision of creating a diving watch designed not only for professional use but also for enthusiasts. Seventy years after its creation, Blancpain celebrates this legacy with a reproduction of a landmark model from 1968. A timepiece that bridges the aesthetic design of the past with watchmaking excellence, this 300-piece limited edition pays tribute to a defining chapter in the evolution of the diver’s watch.

The Skin Diver Style: A New Relationship with the Underwater World

During the 1950s and 1960s,a new generation of watches emerged alongside the growing popularity of recreational diving: the skin diver. More than purely technical instruments, these watches reflected a new relationship with the underwater world, one shaped by leisure, enjoyment, and a growing fascination with this emerging lifestyle. They captured the spirit of a time when diving became not only a professional activity, but also a source of personal adventure. Characterized by more compact proportions, clean lines, and a refined aesthetic, skin diver watches combined essential diving features with a more understated and daily- wear design.

Emerging from that philosophy, the Bathyscaphe was created in 1956 – despite the name having already been registered in 1953 – by Jean-Jacques Fiechter, then CEO of Blancpain and creator of the Fifty Fathoms, bringing Blancpain’s pioneering diving expertise into
a civilian expression designed for everyday wear.

The Bathyscaphe: The Diver Legacy

The name “Bathyscaphe” refers to the pioneering deep-sea exploration vessel conceived by Swiss scientist Auguste Piccard in the 1940s. Designed to reach the greatest depths of the ocean, the Bathyscaphe represented a major milestone in humanity’s exploration of the underwater world, an achievement that resonated with Jean-Jacques Fiechter’s own passion for diving and exploration.

While the Fifty Fathoms, introduced in 1953, was developed as a professional diving instrument for military forces, professional divers, and underwater specialists, the Bathyscaphe offered an everyday interpretation of the same heritage yet preserving the essential features of the diver’s watch. The distinction between the two models was particularly evident through their proportions. Measuring slightly over 41 mm in diameter, the original Fifty Fathoms was created to be a robust professional instrument. With a more compact 35 mm case, the first Bathyscaphe adopted a slimmer profile, reflecting a more civilian style while maintaining the reliability expected from a true diver’s watch. Over seven decades, the Bathyscaphe has evolved through various interpretations but has always remained faithful to its original identity.

The Spirit of 1968, Reborn

For the model’s 70th anniversary, Blancpain turns to one of the most emblematic expressions of the Bathyscaphe’s history with a watch from 1968. This timepiece was selected for the way it embodied the collection’s defining qualities: balanced proportions, functionality, and understated elegance. Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, 1968

Staying as close as possible to this iteration, Blancpain translated the anniversary piece through contem- porary watchmaking standards. The new edition retains the original 37.40 mm diameter and stainless- steel construction, but its case was specifically developed around the movement to achieve the desired proportions and ergonomics. The remarkable diameter-to-thickness ratio, defined by a slender case middle, contributes to the watch’s harmonious profile on the wrist. The polished finishing, curved surfaces, and carefully shaped lugs enhance its refined aesthetics.

The bezel continues this dialogue between heritage and innovation. Made of steel with a ceramic insert and lacquered numerals – replacing the original black hesalite material – it reinforce durability and legibility.

Every element has been considered to reinforce the aesthetic codes of the original design, from the mid-20th century Blancpain logo to the baton hands and indexes enhanced by vintage-coloured Super-LumiNova®, which recalls the warm tones of the luminous materials used in the past. The hand- stitched chocolate calf leather strap further drives this heritage-inspired spirit, developing a natural patina over time.

The result is a faithful contemporary Bathyscaphe reproduction carrying the unmistakable character of its 1968 inspiration.

Vintage Soul, Contemporary Performance

Beneath its vintage-inspired exterior, this anniversary edition reveals the expertise of Blancpain’s contemporary watchmaking. The Manufacture calibre 1150 was selected to equip this timepiece, offering a combination of reliability, precision, and exceptional autonomy with a 100-hour power reserve.

Its silicon hairspring provides antimagnetic properties, contributing to the movement’s stability and long- term performance.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the movement showcases the meticulous Haute Horlogerie finishing. Inspired by the design of that of the original Fifty Fathoms, its open worked 18K gold oscillating weight highlights the beauty of the mechanical architecture. Unlike the 1968 inspiration piece, which featured a closed case back, this new interpretation allows the movement to become part of the experience of ownership, emphasizing the daily- wear DNA of the piece. This choice reflects Blancpain’s desire to offer not only a connection to the past, but also a direct appreciation of the watchmaking expertise behind the timepiece.

Faithful to the standards of the Fifty Fathoms collection, the Bathyscaphe remains water-resistant to 30 bar. Limited to 300 individually numbered pieces, each delivered in a PeliTM case, this anniversary edition celebrates a 70-year-old legacy by combining contemporary reliability with the enduring character of a historic model. ©Tim Vaux Photography

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe
Ref. 5903 1110 63A

Movement: Blancpain Manufacture Calibre 1150
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 100 hours (~4 days)
Dimensions: 26.20 × 3.25 mm
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Hairspring: Silicon
Jewels: 28
Components: 210
Case: Stainless steel
Glass & back: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 bar (300 metres)
Diameter: 37.40 mm
Thickness: 12.30 mm
Lug-to-lug: 46.50 mm
Lug width: 18 mm
Dial: Sunburst meteor grey
Hands: Baton shape, with vintage-colour
Super-LumiNova®
Indexes: Baton shape, 18K white gold with vintage-colour Super-LumiNova®
Strap: Chocolate calf leather
Clasp: Pin buckle
Limited Edition: 300 pieces
Warranty: 5 years

HYT Fluidic Watchmaking: Lucien Vouillamoz on the Future of HYT

HYT: When Time Learns to Flow

An exclusive EyesOnTime conversation with HYT’s co-founder on risk, fluidic innovation, the future of independent watchmaking and why mechanical timekeeping is becoming an art of expression.

Lucien Vouillamoz — engineer, inventor, entrepreneur, philanthropist

Lucien Vouillamoz is a Swiss engineer, inventor, entrepreneur, and philanthropist.

He is best known as the original creator of the mecano-fluidic technology behind HYT watches—a world-first innovation that united fine watchmaking with the poetry of fluids, redefining the boundaries of timekeeping.

He has also significantly invested in Kairos Technologies Switzerland (KTS), the company that revived the HYT brand. While not a member of its Board of Directors, this commitment reflects his strong belief in HYT as the proud standard-bearer of fluidic watchmaking—the modern heir to the ancient clepsydra, which measured time through water more than 3,500 years ago.

Beyond HYT, Vouillamoz has co-founded and supported several ventures at the crossroads of Swiss precision and innovation, yet his true passion remains the art of horology and the dialogue between mechanics, fluids, and time.

Living in Feusisberg, Switzerland, he is married, with four children and ten grandchildren. A passionate sailor, he spends several weeks each year exploring the seas of the world. Committed to giving back, he founded Ganydar.org, a philanthropic initiative supporting education for young people in Latin America.

At the intersection of invention, heritage, and vision, Lucien Vouillamoz embodies both the spirit of Swiss innovation and the timeless pursuit of horological excellence.

What happens when you put liquid inside a mechanical watch?

For HYT’s co-founder, the answer is wonderfully dramatic: “bringing the devil into the machine.”

It is also an accurate description of the technological challenge that has defined HYT from the beginning. A mechanical wristwatch is expected to be watertight, precise and reliable. HYT chose to introduce liquid into that equation and, more radically, make the movement of that liquid the means of displaying time.

The idea sounds simple when reduced to a sentence.

Making it work was anything but.

The development required flexible, watertight bellows derived from aerospace technology, precision-formed borosilicate glass, specialised surface treatments to control the interaction between different liquids and glass, and an interface capable of transferring mechanical energy into fluidic motion using very little energy.

HYT was not merely designing a new watch display. It was creating technologies to make that display possible.

And even after the first watches reached the market, the story was far from finished. The company developed the fluidic mechanism as a replaceable module, allowing early owners to have it upgraded as the technology evolved. According to the interview, approximately eight years were required to resolve the fluidic, mechanical and synchronisation challenges.

Today, that history gives HYT an unusual perspective on innovation. The brand has already taken the risk of doing something that traditional watchmaking had never done before. The question now is what happens when that disruptive technology has been mastered.

In this exclusive conversation with EyesOnTime, HYT’s co-founder discusses the risks behind the brand, what a future without liquid might look like, the misconceptions surrounding hydromechanical watchmaking, the company’s turbulent leadership history, the balance between chaos and engineering discipline, and the surprising applications of HYT’s fluidic technology beyond watches.

Because HYT has already done the seemingly impossible once.

The more interesting question now is: what will it do with time next? 

“Many independent brands innovate, but HYT disrupts”

EyesOnTime: Many independent brands innovate, but HYT disrupts. How do you decide which risks are worth taking in a category that already sees you as the outlier?

HYT: It was a very big risk.

To integrate or put liquid inside a wristwatch, which is supposed to be watertight, is, technologically speaking, bringing the devil into the machine.

When we launched HYT, practically none of the technologies we needed existed in the form required for a high-end wristwatch.

Take the bellows, for example. These reservoirs use technology from the space industry. They have to be watertight but extremely flexible because the watch does not have a lot of available energy.

And then there is aesthetics.

The military industry does not necessarily need these bellows to be beautiful. In a high-end wristwatch, they have to be aesthetically pleasing as well. You have to combine functionality, physical difficulties and aesthetics.

There were many other challenges.

HYT uses different liquids, and we had to compensate for their expansion and contraction with temperature. The capillary is made of borosilicate glass, and nobody before us had formed that glass with the precision required by Swiss watchmaking. We had to develop a machine specifically for it.

Even the interaction between the liquids and the glass created a problem. One liquid behaves more like oil and the other more like water, so we needed a special surface treatment inside the capillary to make both behave correctly.

Then there was energy.

Normally, you have enough energy in a mechanical movement to move a needle or a hand. Here, we had to move an entire system. We therefore had to develop an interface between the mechanical movement and the fluidic movement that could move a relatively important amount of liquid with very little energy.

That is what made HYT so risky.

The collectors who took the risk with HYT

There was another group taking a risk alongside the company: its earliest customers.

HYT knew that it was impossible to wait for perhaps ten years of development before putting the technology on the market. The real world had to become part of the development process.

The solution was to separate the mechanical movement from the fluidic system and make the fluidic module replaceable. Early owners could return their watches and have the module replaced as technological problems were resolved.

That meant HYT’s first collectors were not simply buying an unconventional watch.

They were trusting an unconventional technology.

According to the interview, around eight years were required to resolve the various challenges, including the fluidic system, mechanical components and synchronisation between the two. By 2017, the technological problems had been resolved to the point where the wearer could focus on the beauty, history and emotion of the watch rather than the technology itself.

For an independent watchmaker, that is an extraordinary way to build a collector relationship.

The customer did not merely witness the evolution.

The customer became part of it.

What happens if HYT removes the liquid?

EyesOnTime: The fluidic module is HYT’s signature. If you had to reinvent HYT without fluids, but with the same rebellious spirit, what would that vision look like?

HYT: That is exactly the body of the next ten years of HYT.

We are working on using some very unusual technologies to reinterpret the primordial ways humans have used to show time.

I cannot be too precise because we have to be a bit secret about that, but we have a plan for the next ten years with three major jumps.

The spirit will remain exactly the same: disruptive and technologically ambitious. One direction will continue with liquids, while another will explore something without liquids, but with exactly the same spirit.

There is another important lesson we have learned from being on the market.

We have to go smaller.

We are working on technologies that could fit into watches around 36 or 38 millimetres, ideally below 40 millimetres.

Smaller. Thinner.

We are also looking at lower entry prices, ideally from CHF 35,000.

That may be one of the most revealing answers in the interview.

HYT is not suggesting that its future lies in abandoning its identity and becoming conventional. Instead, the challenge is to translate its disruptive philosophy into smaller, thinner watches while exploring new technologies that may not require liquid at all.

The fluidic watch was the first chapter.

It may not be the last.

Is HYT misunderstood?

EyesOnTime: What’s a misconception the industry still has about hydromechanical watchmaking that you wish would disappear?

HYT: Perhaps part of the misconception comes from how we are taught to read watches.

When you are a child, you learn how to read a conventional watch. You learn what the position of the hands represents. It becomes an education.

Within the watch community, there is therefore a certain bias toward hands showing the time.

What has not really been done in high-end watches is the use of gauges.

Gauges are familiar from the automotive industry, but HYT brought that language into watchmaking. We did not only bring liquids. We brought a different way of showing time.

Perhaps that can create the impression that it is a gimmick.

But if you understand that HYT is reinterpreting a water clock on the wrist, the concept becomes different.

That historical connection is something HYT now wants to explore more deeply.

The brand discussed bringing together the history of monumental water clocks, educating people about them and creating events or smaller water clocks connected with HYT. The aim is to take people back to the real origins of water-based timekeeping: the clepsydra.

It is a clever distinction.

HYT is not simply asking people to understand a strange-looking watch.

It is asking them to reconsider something much older: how humanity has always tried to visualise the passage of time.

From complexity to poetry

That historical perspective also explains something fundamental about HYT.

The brand is not trying to compete with atomic clocks on precision.

The interview makes that point quite clearly. From sundials and water clocks to mechanical watches, quartz and atomic timekeeping, humanity has progressively developed more precise ways of measuring time. Today, nobody needs a mechanical watch simply to know the correct time.

Connected watches have taken the wrist in another direction altogether, turning it into a platform for information and personal utility.

So where does that leave the mechanical watch?

For HYT, it leaves room for art.

The interview describes the brand’s contribution as adding a new chapter of “poetry” to high-end horology.

Mechanical watchmaking itself is already a combination of different crafts and forms of artistic expression. HYT adds another axis by using fluidics to create a new visual representation of time.

The evolution of the brand can therefore be seen in two stages.

First, master the complexity.

Then, once the complexity is under control, return to the poetry.

That is where HYT says it finds itself now.

Can chaos and precision coexist?

EyesOnTime: How do you balance the instinct for wild creativity, colours, materials and architecture with the engineering team’s strict performance and reliability requirements?

HYT: The ground of creativity is chaos.

You cannot put an artist or creative person into an entirely structured environment. Creativity needs chaos.

But creativity is the opposite of productivity.

Chaos allows creativity. Structure allows productivity. The secret is therefore having the right people at the right moment in the process Some people create the disruption. Others structure it and make that disruption productive through quality, reliability and cost control.

The history of HYT illustrates exactly why that distinction matters.

When the company began, it could not find a single established industry capable of providing all the technologies it required. Microfluidics, glass forming and micromechanics existed as separate disciplines.

Some of the early technologies even had to come from outside Europe. The bellows were American, while an early coating technology was developed by a company in San Diego.

The coating alone illustrates the extent of the challenge.

One application reportedly cost a significant amount, during the early development phase. It was transparent and hidden inside the glass, but without it, the system could not function.

That is the less glamorous side of disruption.

The idea may be beautiful.

Making it reliable is expensive, difficult and sometimes painfully slow.

What will redefine independent watchmaking?

EyesOnTime: What’s something in HYT’s pipeline, whether technology, material or concept, that you believe will redefine what collectors expect from independent watchmaking in the next three years?

HYT: The company is working on three major technological jumps, including approaches that continue with liquids and others that explore ways of expressing time without them. At the same time, it is working toward smaller and thinner watches, with a target of ideally staying below 40 millimetres, alongside a lower potential entry point.

That restraint is telling.

In an industry where brands often tease future products with carefully calculated hints, HYT’s answer essentially says: the future is coming, but we are not going to tell you everything yet.

What it does reveal is the direction.

Smaller.

Thinner.

Technologically disruptive.

And potentially beyond liquid.

When a watchmaking invention leaves the watch

EyesOnTime: If you could collaborate with any non-watchmaking field, whether space technology, automotive, biotech or gaming, which sector feels most HYT, and why?

HYT: The immediate answer is liquid.

Liquid is life.

When HYT developed its technology, the original concept was about mastering the precise movement of liquid on living bodies. At microlitre precision, the same principles can have applications far beyond watches, including the controlled delivery of medical fluids.

That led naturally into medical technology.

The technology company associated with HYT’s intellectual property, Preciflex, has worked in parallel with the watch industry on medical applications. The interview also refers to PreciHealth and work involving diagnostics and blood analysis.

But the applications do not stop there.

The same thinking has found its way into the cigar industry, where precise control of liquids is important, and into deep geothermal energy, where fluidic systems are used in extracting heat from the Earth.

There is even a project addressing sea-level rise and plastic pollution through platforms on the high seas.

It is one of the most unexpected revelations of the conversation.

HYT’s fluidic technology may have begun as a watchmaking experiment, but the underlying expertise is not limited to watches.

The wristwatch was the proving ground.

The technology can travel much further.

Four CEOs, one idea

EyesOnTime: HYT has gone through a revival and leadership changes. What was the hardest cultural shift you had to introduce inside the company, and what was the most rewarding?

The answer takes the question in a slightly different direction.

Rather than describing one particular cultural shift, HYT’s co-founder reflects on the brand having gone through four different CEOs, each with a distinct personality and interpretation of the same fundamental idea.

Each CEO interpreted the same concept differently.

The underlying expression of time remained, while the creative interpretation changed.

That adaptability may be one of HYT’s greatest strengths.

The concept is strong enough to survive different personalities.

The people who believed before HYT was proven

The story also belongs to the collectors and retailers who were willing to take the risk.

The first customers purchased a completely new type of watch at considerable cost, knowing that the technology was still evolving. HYT remains deeply appreciative of those early owners.

Retailers were equally important.

The interview specifically mentions Laurent Picciotto as one of the early adopters who was willing to believe that HYT’s disruption was strong enough to persuade customers to embrace it.

It is an important reminder about independent watchmaking.

Disruption does not happen because an inventor has an idea.

It happens when enough people are willing to believe in that idea before the market has decided that it makes sense.

And HYT has always had a story that begins with the question of why a mechanical watch should look and behave the way it traditionally does.

When inspiration comes from outside watchmaking

That same philosophy can also be seen in HYT’s more unusual collaborations and limited editions.

The interview discusses an S1 cigar-inspired watch whose design translates elements of cigar culture into horological details.

The brown alligator strap recalls cigar leaves. The rose-gold case references the rings associated with cigars, while the red fluid evokes the fire of a lit cigar. A Havana-chocolate dial and rose-gold indexes complete the visual connection.

The edition is limited to eight pieces worldwide.

Here again, the fluid is not merely functional.

It becomes part of the narrative.

That is perhaps the clearest demonstration of HYT’s evolution from complexity toward poetry.

What does the mechanical watch become in a digital world?

EyesOnTime: In a world shifting toward digital timekeeping, how do you ensure that HYT stays relevant while still being unapologetically analogue and mechanical?

The answer lies in rejecting the idea that a mechanical watch must compete with digital technology on digital technology’s terms.

Nobody needs a mechanical watch simply to know the time.

The modern world already has more precise and convenient solutions.

The value of the mechanical watch therefore moves elsewhere.

Into craftsmanship.

Into mechanics.

Into design.

Into the experience of watching something mechanical come alive on the wrist.

For HYT, that means adding another dimension to the artistic language of watchmaking.

The brand’s fluidic display takes one of humanity’s earliest methods of measuring time and places it inside an extraordinarily sophisticated mechanical object.

That is why the future of HYT will not be defined by liquid alone.

If the company’s philosophy is to reinterpret the primordial ways humans have represented time, then liquid is only one possible language.

The next could be something entirely different.

HYT’s story began with an audacious question:

What if time could flow?

Answering it required years of technological development, the creation of components and processes that did not previously exist for watchmaking, the patience of early collectors and the willingness of retailers to support an idea that was far from conventional.

The company has also endured leadership changes and bankruptcy, while continuing to refine the technology at the heart of its identity.

Now, however, the challenge is changing.

The technology has been mastered.

The next stage is about imagination.

HYT’s co-founder describes that transition particularly well: the early years were dominated by the complexity of making the system work. Now, having mastered that complexity, the brand can focus once again on poetry.

That may be the most important thing to understand about HYT.

The liquid is not the destination.

It is a language.

And if HYT’s next decade delivers what this conversation hints at, the brand may eventually prove that its greatest innovation was never simply putting liquid inside a watch.

It was convincing us that there is no single correct way to show time.

 

 

 

Patek Philippe Calatrava 7200/50G-012: Ice Blue Elegance

The Patek Philippe Calatrava 7200/50G-012 brings together the understated elegance of the Calatrava with a distinctive ice-blue palette. Its 34.6mm white-gold case is entirely polished and frames a sunburst ice-blue dial, while a pearly ice-blue alligator leather strap continues the same refreshing tone. Patek Philippe describes the watch as epitomising feminine elegance and highlights its Officer’s-style case as one of its defining characteristics.

Behind this refined exterior is the ultra-thin self-winding Calibre 240. Measuring just 2.53mm thick, the movement features a 22K gold off-centre minirotor and offers a minimum power reserve of 48 hours. Together, the slim movement and 7.37mm-thick case give the Calatrava a remarkably slender profile.

The result is a watch where the appeal comes not from complexity on the dial, but from the careful relationship between colour, proportions, traditional details and mechanical refinement.

An Officer’s-Style Calatrava

The 7200/50G-012 is presented in a white-gold case measuring 34.6mm in diameter and 7.37mm in thickness. Patek Philippe specifies that the case is entirely polished.

The Officer’s-style construction gives the case its distinctive character, with straight lugs and screwed-in strap bars. These details are particularly noticeable against the otherwise clean silhouette of the Calatrava.

The case is water-resistant to 30 metres and features a sapphire-crystal case back, allowing the wearer to see the movement within.

It is a compact set of proportions, but one that allows the design to retain the restrained character associated with the Calatrava.

An Ice-Blue Dial Takes Centre Stage

The defining visual element of the Patek Philippe Calatrava 7200/50G-012 is its sunburst ice-blue dial.

Patek Philippe pairs the dial with applied white-gold Breguet numerals and white-gold pear-shaped hands. White-gold applied cabochons form the minute scale, adding detail while maintaining the clean appearance of the dial.

The sunburst finish gives the ice-blue surface a changing appearance as it catches the light, while the white-gold elements provide a crisp contrast.

There is a deliberate sense of restraint here. The dial focuses on the essential indications and allows the colour and finishing to become an important part of the watch’s identity.

Matching Ice Blue on the Wrist

Patek Philippe continues the colour of the dial onto the strap.

The watch is fitted with a pearly ice-blue alligator leather strap with square scales, secured by a white-gold prong buckle. The maison specifically describes the strap as echoing the refreshing tone of the dial.

This creates a continuous visual connection between the dial and the strap, with the polished white-gold case providing the neutral element between them.

The combination is distinctive without relying on an overly elaborate design.

The Ultra-Thin Calibre 240

The mechanical heart of the Calatrava 7200/50G-012 is Patek Philippe’s Calibre 240, an ultra-thin self-winding movement.

The movement measures 27.5mm in diameter and 2.53mm in thickness. It consists of 152 parts and 27 jewels, with a minimum power reserve of 48 hours.

Its winding system uses a 22K gold off-centre minirotor. The movement also incorporates a Gyromax® balance and a Spiromax® balance spring. It operates at a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, or 3 Hz, and bears the Patek Philippe Seal.

The movement’s slim architecture is particularly relevant to the watch as a whole. At only 2.53mm thick, Calibre 240 allows Patek Philippe to combine automatic winding with the 7.37mm-thick case of the Calatrava.

Classical Details Meet a Contemporary Colour

The 7200/50G-012 is a good example of how a familiar watchmaking language can take on a different character through colour.

The Breguet numerals and pear-shaped hands bring traditional elements to the dial. The Officer’s-style case adds another classic detail, while the sunburst ice-blue dial and matching pearly strap give the watch its distinctive visual identity.

The design therefore does not depend on a complicated display to establish its personality. Instead, the details are distributed across the case, dial, strap and movement.

That balance is central to the appeal of this particular Calatrava.

A Feminine Expression of the Calatrava

Patek Philippe describes the 7200/50G-012 as “epitomizing feminine elegance.”

The watch’s 34.6mm diameter, white-gold case and ice-blue colour palette contribute to that positioning, while the mechanical construction ensures that the watch remains firmly rooted in traditional fine watchmaking.

Rather than overwhelming the design with decorative elements, Patek Philippe focuses on the relationship between the proportions, materials and finishing.

The result is a Calatrava that is elegant without being visually complicated.

The Details Collectors Will Notice

The first thing likely to catch the eye is the ice-blue dial, but the details become more interesting the closer one looks.

The Officer’s-style case features straight lugs and screwed-in strap bars. The dial combines applied Breguet numerals, pear-shaped white-gold hands and white-gold applied cabochons for the minute scale. The strap uses pearly ice-blue alligator leather with square scales and a white-gold prong buckle.

Then there is Calibre 240.

Its 2.53mm thickness, 22K gold off-centre minirotor, Gyromax® balance, Spiromax® balance spring and Patek Philippe Seal represent the technical side of the watch, all contained within a movement measuring 27.5mm in diameter.

The contrast is what makes the watch compelling: a relatively quiet exterior concealing an ultra-thin mechanical movement with a substantial list of technical specifications.

Key Specifications

Reference: 7200/50G-012
Collection: Calatrava
Case material: White gold
Case finish: Entirely polished
Case style: Officer’s-style
Case diameter: 34.6mm
Case thickness: 7.37mm
Lugs: Straight
Strap bars: Screwed-in
Water resistance: 30m
Case back: Sapphire crystal
Dial: Sunburst ice blue
Hour markers: Applied white-gold Breguet numerals
Hands: White-gold pear-shaped hands
Minute scale: White-gold applied cabochons
Strap: Pearly ice-blue alligator leather with square scales
Buckle: White-gold prong buckle
Movement: Calibre 240
Movement type: Self-winding, ultra-thin
Movement diameter: 27.5mm
Movement thickness: 2.53mm
Number of parts: 152
Number of jewels: 27
Power reserve: Minimum 48 hours
Winding rotor: 22K gold off-centre minirotor
Balance: Gyromax®
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations/hour (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Distinctive sign: Patek Philippe Seal

A Refined Take on the Calatrava

The Patek Philippe Calatrava 7200/50G-012 brings together a compact white-gold case, an ice-blue sunburst dial, traditional Breguet numerals and an ultra-thin self-winding movement.

Its identity comes from the details: the Officer’s-style case with straight lugs and screwed-in strap bars, the pear-shaped white-gold hands, the matching pearly ice-blue alligator strap and the Calibre 240 visible through the sapphire-crystal case back.

At 34.6mm in diameter and 7.37mm thick, the watch maintains a slim, compact profile, while the 2.53mm-thick Calibre 240 provides the mechanical foundation for that construction.

The 7200/50G-012 is therefore less about adding more and more to the watch, and more about getting every element to work together. It is a Calatrava expressed through colour, proportion and ultra-thin mechanical watchmaking, with the ice-blue palette giving the familiar design a distinctly fresh identity.

Perrelet Weekend GMT Atlas: A Hand-Painted Limited Edition Celebrating the Spirit of Travel

Swiss watchmaker Perrelet has partnered with Dubai-based IFL Watches to unveil the Weekend GMT Atlas, a striking limited edition that blends Swiss mechanical watchmaking with the artistry of hand-painted miniature dials. Limited to just 50 pieces worldwide, this exclusive release transforms the practical GMT complication into a visual tribute to travel, exploration, and craftsmanship.

Built on the foundation of Perrelet’s popular Weekend GMT collection, the Weekend GMT Atlas elevates the model into a collector’s piece where every dial is individually painted by hand, ensuring that no two watches are exactly alike.

A Dial Inspired by Exploration

At the heart of the Weekend GMT Atlas is a dial unlike any other in Perrelet’s collection. Designed exclusively for this collaboration, each dial is meticulously hand-painted by IFL Watches’ in-house artists, turning every watch into a unique work of wearable art.

Dominating the centre is a beautifully detailed compass rose, an enduring symbol of navigation that has guided explorers across seas for centuries. Surrounding it is a colourful panorama inspired by the world’s diverse landscapes and cultures.

The miniature artwork captures scenes of dolphins leaping through crystal-clear waters, lush tropical forests, majestic mountains, palm-lined coastlines, and the iconic pyramids of Egypt. Together, these elements celebrate the excitement of discovering new destinations while reflecting the purpose of a GMT watch: staying connected across different time zones.

Despite the artistic complexity, the dial remains highly legible. Slim baton hour markers are carefully positioned around the artwork, while the 24-hour GMT scale is displayed on a satin-finished blue ring surrounding the compass rose.

A dedicated GMT hand featuring a white triangular tip outlined in red allows the wearer to track home time at a glance, making the watch both visually captivating and genuinely practical for frequent travellers.

A discreet date window at 3 o’clock completes the display without disrupting the harmony of the hand-painted composition.

Elegant Design for Everyday Wear

The Weekend GMT Atlas retains the refined proportions that have defined the Weekend collection since its introduction in 2019.

Its 39 mm stainless steel case combines polished and brushed finishes, delivering a versatile aesthetic suitable for both casual and formal occasions. Measuring just 9.61 mm thick, the watch offers exceptional comfort on a wide range of wrist sizes.

Additional design highlights include:

Polished bezel with brushed case surfaces
Elongated lugs with bevelled edges
Fluted crown engraved with the Perrelet logo
Water resistance to 5 ATM (50 metres)

The watch is supplied with a stainless steel bracelet featuring alternating polished and satin-brushed links, along with an additional blue leather strap embossed with an alligator pattern.

Thanks to Perrelet’s quick-release system, owners can switch between the bracelet and leather strap in seconds without using tools, allowing the watch to transition effortlessly from everyday wear to more formal occasions.

Powered by the In-House P-401 GMT Movement

Inside the Weekend GMT Atlas beats Perrelet’s in-house automatic Calibre P-401, developed by SOPROD, another member of the Swiss watchmaking group owned by Miguel Rodríguez.

Operating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and delivering a 42-hour power reserve, the movement has been engineered to offer reliable everyday performance while supporting dual-time functionality.

The central hour and minute hands display local time, while the independently adjustable GMT hand tracks home time using the surrounding 24-hour scale. The complication is intuitive to operate, making it ideal for travellers crossing multiple time zones.

Turning the watch over reveals a screw-down caseback featuring a transparent porthole decorated with artwork that echoes the travel-inspired theme found on the dial. The caseback also displays the watch’s limited-edition numbering, while the sapphire opening offers a view of the movement’s refined finishing, including circular-grained bridges, sunray decorations, and a customised oscillating weight bearing the Perrelet logo.

Limited to Just 50 Pieces

With only 50 examples available worldwide, the Perrelet Weekend GMT Atlas stands apart not only for its rarity but also because every dial is individually hand-painted. Since each artist creates the artwork by hand, every watch possesses subtle differences, ensuring that each owner receives a truly unique piece.

By combining artistic craftsmanship with Swiss mechanical engineering, Perrelet and IFL Watches have created a GMT watch that celebrates the joy of travel while remaining practical enough for everyday use.

Technical Specifications

Model: Perrelet Weekend GMT Atlas
Edition: Limited to 50 pieces worldwide
Case Material: Stainless steel
Case Diameter: 39 mm
Thickness: 9.61 mm
Water Resistance: 5 ATM (50 metres)
Movement: In-house automatic Calibre P-401
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, GMT, date
Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet with additional blue leather strap
Quick-Release Strap System: Yes

Final Thoughts

The Perrelet Weekend GMT Atlas is more than another limited-edition GMT watch. It is a thoughtful fusion of traditional Swiss watchmaking and contemporary artistic expression. By transforming the dial into a hand-painted landscape inspired by global exploration, Perrelet and IFL Watches have created a timepiece that appeals equally to collectors, travellers, and enthusiasts looking for something genuinely distinctive.

With only 50 pieces produced and every dial individually hand-painted, the Weekend GMT Atlas offers an uncommon combination of exclusivity, craftsmanship, and everyday functionality.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces New Rendez-Vous Women’s Watches

Two Distinctive Expressions of Femininity

Key Facts

  • Jewellery as a timekeeping art: the Rendez-Vous Jewellery Night & Day masterfully fuses miniature hand-painting, precision gem-setting, and the poetic Night & Day complication; adorned with 48 baguette-cut diamonds, it epitomizes Jaeger-LeCoultre’s unparalleled mastery in feminine watchmaking
  • Contemporary elegance: the Rendez-Vous Hour-Minute reimagines the collection’s signature codes with a refined aesthetic tailored for modern femininity; at a mere 7.47mm, one of the slimmest timepieces in the Rendez-Vous collection
  • Exceptional craftsmanship: a showcase for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares™ expertise, the collection highlights unique mastery through intricate decoration and meticulous hand-finishing

Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils two new Rendez-Vous models, highlighting the collection’s versatility and distinct expressions of feminine elegance.

The Rendez-Vous Jewellery Night & Day, in a limited edition of just 10 pieces. Its multi-layered dial, miniature-painted in lacquer, is encircled by baguette-cut diamonds, all housed within a 34mm platinum case, offering an evocative new expression of the Night & Day complication.

In contrast, the Rendez-Vous Hour-Minute presents the collection’s signature feminine elegance in a new, minimalistic style. It features a 29mm case in steel or 18K (750/1000) pink gold, a smooth polished bezel, an engraved caseback and a supple ‘second skin’ bracelet available in matching metal or polished alligator leather.

Defining Modern Feminity

When introduced in 2012, at a time when very few mechanical watches were created exclusively for feminine wrists, the first Rendez-Vous was hailed as a groundbreaking timepiece, combining elegance and beauty with technical sophistication.

This approach has defined the Maison since its earliest years, when it created watches for women as well as men. Recognising the aesthetic and technical potential of timepieces that could also be worn as jewels, Jaeger-LeCoultre has continually responded to women’s evolving desires, reflected societal shifts and anticipated new trends. A contemporary expression of this philosophy, the Rendez-Vous collection embodies a modern and confident vision of femininity. Fourteen years after its debut, two new Rendez-Vous models demonstrate the art of subtle evolution, reinterpreting the collection’s original codes while remaining true to its spirit.

Rende-vouz Jewellery Night & Day

A rendez-vous between art and eternity: introducing a 34 mm platinum 950 case to the collection, the Rendez-Vous Jewellery Night & Day unites the technical and aesthetic sophistication of fine watchmaking with the richness of gem-setting and miniature hand-painting.

In a delightful ode to nature, the dial features an image of an Asian Paradise Flycatcher perched on a branch of Korean Dogwood blossom. Hand-painted in lacquer on a transparent sapphire dial, the composition brings to life one tiny brushstroke at a time, creating lifelike detail and a remarkable sense of visual depth. On a disc, set beneath the image of the bird, an ethereal rendition of the moon and sun is also hand-painted in lacquer. A new expression of the Night & Day complication, this disc completes one rotation every 24 hours, tracing the daily transition from sunlight to moonlight. This profound immersion masterfully crafts the perception of two distinct dials – one for day, one for night – each gracefully claiming a third of the total dial’s expanse.

Defining the asymmetrical dial layout, the sinuous Floral numerals – a signature of the Rendez-Vous collection – are graduated in size to form a crescent that wraps around the upper section. Beneath the applied numerals, a fine oval-shaped ring of grain-set diamonds draws the eye to the delicately painted image and Night & Day display. The captivating tableau is enhanced by diamonds, set into the platinum case by the specialist gem-setter in the Manufacture’s in-house Métiers RaresTM atelier: the bezel lights up with a glittering circle of 48 baguette-cut diamonds; these are complemented by brilliant-cut diamonds on the case sides and lugs.

In keeping with the Rendez-Vous codes, an additional brilliant-cut diamond is reverse-set in the crown.

This poetic expression of femininity is brought to life by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s self-winding Calibre 733, whose finely decorated components are revealed through the transparent sapphire caseback. The automatic movement features a rotor, meticulously crafted from 22-carat gold (916/1000), a testament to horological excellence.

A blue alligator strap with a glowing ‘satin’ finish is matched to the blues of the dial and features Jaeger-LeCoultre’s proprietary interchangeability system, enabling the owner to change straps in an instant to create a different look if wished. The Rendez-Vous Jewellery Night & Day is unveiled as a truly exceptional offering, produced in a highly exclusive series of only 10 pieces.

Rende-vouz Hour-Minute

Daily wear, redefined: with the introduction of the Rendez-Vous Hour-Minute, Jaeger-Lecoultre pares the Rendez-Vous aesthetic back to its essence, achieving a fine balance: minimalistic in spirit yet finely detailed; decorative without being elaborate; perfect for daily wear while dressy enough for evening. The 29 mm case, offered in either steel or 18K (750/1000) pink gold, features a convex bezel – polished, rather than diamond-set. The closed metal caseback is engraved with a stylised image of the sun.

Displaying hours and minutes only, the dials are designed as a series of concentric circles and feature the Rendez-Vous signature Floral numerals and sunray guilloché texture. On the outer edge of this, diamonds have a discreet presence as the hour markers, in keeping with the collection’s codes, while the inner edge is defined by a ring of deeply textured embossing.

The precious metal case of the 18K (750/1000) pink gold model is matched by the colour of the hands and numerals, which harmonise with the warm, creamy tone of the dial. The tone-on-tone palette is enhanced by an alligator strap in a soft taupe colour with a subtly glowing ‘satin’ finish. The strap also features the signature interchangeability system. Infused with a delicate jewellery essence, this timepiece is destined for daily wear, providing a discreet yet unwavering presence through every facet of life.

Metal bracelet, with a new aesthetic: The steel model, where blue hands contrast with the snow-white dial and cool tone of the case metal, is fitted with a new style of bracelet. Introduced exclusively for the Rendez-Vous collection in 2025.

Its modern lozenge-shaped links are designed for maximum flexibility, so that it drapes around the wrist as softly as a ribbon. The links are highly polished, with discreet areas of brushing to create visual depth and the bracelet is fitted with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s proprietary interchangeability mechanism to enable quick changes with a simple hand gesture.

More than simply marking the time, the new Rendez-Vous models offer two graceful and distinctly different interpretations of timekeeping for women. From the intricate detail and precious gem-setting of the Rendez-Vous Jewellery Night & Day to the relaxed, everyday elegance of the Rendez-Vous Hour-Minute, these new expressions of femininity are crafted to capture the imagination.

Technical Characteristics

Rende-vouz Jewellery Night & Day

Case: Platinum 950

Dimensions: 34 mm diameter x 9.5 mm thick

Calibre: Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 733

Functions: Hours, minutes, 24h night & day display

Power Reserve: 70 hours

Dial: Miniature painting

Gemstones: Baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds (3,04 carats)

Water resistance: 3 bar

Strap: Blue alligator, interchangeable

Reference: Q36665P2

 

Rende-vouz Hour-Minute

Case: Stainless steel or 18K (750/1000) pink gold

Dimensions: 29 mm diameter x 7.47 mm thick

Calibre: Quartz Calibre 657

Functions: Hours, minutes

Dial: Textured guilloché

Gemstones: 12 diamond hour markers

Caseback: Solid metal, engraved

Water resistance: 3 bar

Strap: Steel model: stainless steel interchangeable bracelet with interchangeable double-folding clasp

Pink gold model: Taupe alligator, interchangeable, with pin buckle

Reference: Steel: Q3658110 ; Pink gold: Q3652520

Rolex Yacht-Master II Returns in 2026: A Smarter, More Refined Regatta Chronograph

There are few watches in Rolex’s Professional collection that divide opinion quite like the Yacht-Master II. Introduced in 2007 as one of the world’s few purpose-built mechanical regatta chronographs, it stood apart with its programmable countdown timer and unmistakable blue Cerachrom bezel. While admired for its technical ingenuity, its bold styling was never universally embraced.

For 2026, Rolex has taken a fresh approach.

Rather than simply updating the outgoing model, the brand has comprehensively re-engineered the Yacht-Master II, refining its appearance, simplifying its operation and introducing a new movement designed specifically for competitive sailing. The result is a watch that remains unmistakably a Yacht-Master II while becoming significantly more intuitive and contemporary.

A Cleaner Look Without Losing Its Identity

The most noticeable transformation is the dial.

Rolex has removed much of the visual complexity that characterised the previous generation. The countdown scale has been relocated from the bezel to a precisely positioned flange surrounding the dial, creating a more balanced and easier-to-read display.

The dial itself now features a matte white lacquer finish that reduces reflections, while the Professional collection’s applied hour markers further improve readability in varying lighting conditions.

The familiar blue Cerachrom bezel remains, but its role has changed. Instead of carrying the countdown scale, it now functions as a traditional 60-minute graduated bezel, giving the watch a cleaner and more purposeful appearance.

Designed Around the Regatta Start

The Yacht-Master II has always been different from conventional chronographs.

Instead of measuring elapsed time after an event begins, it helps sailors prepare for one of the most crucial moments in competitive yacht racing: the starting sequence.

The new generation retains Rolex’s programmable countdown with mechanical memory and “on-the-fly” synchronization, allowing sailors to adjust the countdown during a race without interrupting its operation.

For 2026, Rolex has also simplified the user experience. The countdown is now programmed and controlled exclusively through the two side pushers, eliminating the Ring Command bezel interaction used on the previous generation and making operation more straightforward under race conditions.

New Calibre 4162 Powers the Next Generation

At the heart of the watch is the entirely new Rolex Calibre 4162, developed exclusively for the Yacht-Master II.

Building on the previous Calibre 4161, the new movement introduces a completely re-engineered countdown mechanism while incorporating several of Rolex’s latest movement technologies.

Among the upgrades are:

  • Chronergy escapement for improved energy efficiency
  • Rolex Côtes de Genève bridge finishing
  • Skeletonised oscillating weight
  • Enhanced reliability and precision
  • Self-winding mechanical architecture developed entirely in-house

Like every current Rolex, the movement meets the strengthened Superlative Chronometer standards introduced in 2026, ensuring exceptional precision and performance after casing.

Built for Life at Sea

The Yacht-Master II continues to feature Rolex’s robust Oyster architecture.

Key highlights include:

Specification Details
Case Size 44 mm
Water Resistance 100 metres (330 feet)
Materials Oystersteel or 18 ct Yellow Gold
Bracelet Oyster Bracelet
Clasp Oysterlock Safety Clasp
Extension Easylink Comfort Extension (approximately 5 mm)

On the yellow gold model, Rolex also incorporates patented ceramic inserts inside the bracelet links, helping reduce wear while improving long-term flexibility and comfort.

Available Variants

At launch, Rolex offers two versions:

  • Oystersteel with a matte white dial and blue Cerachrom bezel
  • 18 ct Yellow Gold with matching premium finishes

Both share identical functionality and the new Calibre 4162 movement.

EyesOnTime’s Perspective

The Yacht-Master II has always been one of Rolex’s most technically fascinating creations, but also one of its most polarising.

With the 2026 generation, Rolex appears to have listened carefully to years of collector feedback. The watch is noticeably cleaner, more legible and easier to operate, while preserving the unique regatta functionality that has always set it apart.

Rather than reinventing the concept, Rolex has refined it where it matters most. The redesigned countdown interface, the introduction of Calibre 4162 and the simplified aesthetics collectively make the Yacht-Master II feel more mature and purpose-driven than its predecessor.

Whether this translates into broader appeal among collectors remains to be seen, but from a technical and design standpoint, the new Yacht-Master II represents one of the brand’s most thoughtful evolutions in recent years.

Technical Specifications

Feature Specification
Collection Rolex Yacht-Master II
Reference 126680 (Oystersteel), 126688 (18 ct Yellow Gold)
Case Oyster, 44 mm
Movement Rolex Calibre 4162
Functions Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Programmable Regatta Countdown
Power Self-winding Mechanical
Water Resistance 100 metres
Bracelet Oyster
Clasp Oysterlock with Easylink

FAQ

What is new about the Rolex Yacht-Master II in 2026?

The 2026 model introduces a redesigned countdown display, a new Calibre 4162 movement, simplified countdown controls using only the side pushers, improved dial legibility and a cleaner overall design.

What is the Yacht-Master II designed for?

Unlike a traditional chronograph, the Yacht-Master II is specifically engineered for yacht racing and features a programmable countdown timer designed for regatta starting sequences.

Which materials are available?

The new Yacht-Master II is available in Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold.

Hublot Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue: A New Shade of Innovation in Sapphire Watchmaking

Hublot continues to redefine transparent watchmaking with the launch of the limited-edition Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue, pairing its signature sapphire expertise with the impressive Meca-10 manufacture movement.

There are watches that tell time, and then there are watches that make a statement before you even glance at the dial. The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue belongs firmly in the latter category. Limited to just 100 pieces worldwide, this latest creation showcases everything Hublot has become synonymous with over the past decade: innovative materials, bold engineering and contemporary design.

Hublot’s Mastery of Sapphire Continues

Working with sapphire is no simple feat. Renowned for its exceptional hardness and transparency, sapphire is one of the most demanding materials in watchmaking. While many brands have experimented with it, Hublot has consistently expanded its possibilities, introducing coloured sapphire cases that combine technical complexity with striking aesthetics.

The Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue captures the calm brilliance of a summer sky through its fully polished 44mm sapphire crystal case. Its transparent construction allows light to flow through every angle of the watch, giving it a presence that constantly changes depending on its surroundings. Titanium H-shaped screws secure the sapphire bezel, while a structured sky-blue rubber strap completes the distinctive monochromatic look.

The Meca-10 Movement Takes Centre Stage

Inside the transparent case is one of Hublot’s most celebrated in-house calibres: the HUB1201 Meca-10.

Originally introduced in 2016, the Meca-10 broke away from conventional movement architecture. Rather than hiding the mechanics beneath the dial, Hublot designed the movement to become the visual centrepiece of the watch. Inspired by mechanical construction systems, its fully skeletonised architecture reveals every functional component.

The manually wound movement consists of 223 components, delivers an exceptional 10-day (240-hour) power reserve, and uses two parallel mainspring barrels to maintain consistent energy delivery. One of its most distinctive features is the innovative rack-and-pinion power reserve display that moves horizontally across the movement, reinforcing the industrial aesthetic that has become synonymous with the Meca-10 collection.

Transparency That Reveals Every Detail

The appeal of the Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue extends beyond its sapphire case. Its matte sky-blue skeleton dial, matching movement bridges and sapphire case-back ensure that the watch remains visually captivating from every angle.

Instead of concealing its mechanics, the watch celebrates them. Every gear, bridge and wheel becomes part of the overall design, creating a fascinating interplay between engineering and aesthetics. It is a reminder that modern haute horlogerie is as much about visual storytelling as it is about precision.

Built with Confidence

The Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue is more than an exercise in design. It also reflects Hublot’s confidence in its manufacturing capabilities.

Eligible models purchased from 1 January 2026 benefit from Hublot’s 5+5 warranty programme, providing a five-year standard warranty with the possibility of extending coverage to ten years through the Hublotista programme. It is among the most comprehensive warranty offerings in contemporary luxury watchmaking and reinforces the brand’s trust in its products.

Limited to Just 100 Pieces

Exclusivity remains central to the appeal of this release.

The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue is limited to 100 pieces worldwide and will be available through selected Hublot boutiques, authorised retailers and the brand’s official online store. The watch is priced at USD 84,300, reflecting both the complexity of its sapphire construction and the sophistication of its in-house movement.

Final Thoughts

Few brands have embraced sapphire as confidently as Hublot. Over the years, the manufacture has transformed what was once considered an experimental material into one of its defining signatures. The Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue continues that journey, combining a transparent sky-blue sapphire case with the technically impressive Meca-10 movement in a package that is both futuristic and unmistakably Hublot.

For collectors who appreciate avant-garde watchmaking, architectural movements and limited-edition craftsmanship, this latest Big Bang demonstrates exactly why Hublot remains one of the industry’s most daring innovators.

GPHG Exhibition 2026 Mumbai: Ethos Brings Watchmaking’s Biggest Showcase to India

India’s luxury watch journey reaches another defining milestone this September.

From 28 September to 1 October 2026, Mumbai will host the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Exhibition, presented by Ethos. Recognised globally as the “Oscars of Watchmaking,” the travelling exhibition brings together the year’s finest nominated timepieces, offering collectors, enthusiasts and industry professionals a rare opportunity to experience contemporary haute horlogerie up close before the winners are announced in Geneva.

The exhibition reflects India’s growing stature in the international watch industry and highlights the country’s rapidly expanding community of knowledgeable collectors. Over four days, visitors will have the opportunity to discover exceptional creations that showcase innovation, craftsmanship and mechanical excellence from some of the world’s most celebrated watchmakers.

A Rare Encounter with the World’s Finest Timepieces

Unlike the awards ceremony itself, the travelling GPHG Exhibition allows watch enthusiasts to experience the shortlisted watches firsthand. The Mumbai showcase will feature finalists across multiple award categories, ranging from complicated mechanical masterpieces and sports watches to artistic métiers d’art creations and groundbreaking independent watchmaking.

For many collectors, this is a unique chance to compare some of the year’s most significant horological creations side by side, all under one roof.

Why Mumbai Matters

India has steadily emerged as one of the most exciting luxury watch markets in the world. A new generation of collectors, increasing appreciation for independent watchmakers and growing demand for high-end Swiss timepieces have transformed the country into an important destination for global maisons.

Bringing the GPHG Exhibition to Mumbai is recognition of this momentum. It demonstrates the confidence that the international watch industry has in India’s collector community while creating a platform for enthusiasts to engage more deeply with contemporary watchmaking.

Ethos Continues to Shape India’s Watch Culture

As India’s leading luxury watch retailer, Ethos has consistently invested in building awareness around fine watchmaking through exhibitions, educational initiatives and partnerships with global brands.

Hosting the GPHG Exhibition further strengthens that commitment, giving Indian audiences direct access to watches that represent the very best of modern horology and reinforcing India’s place within the global watchmaking conversation.

A Must-Visit Event for Every Watch Enthusiast

Whether you’re a seasoned collector, an aspiring enthusiast or simply fascinated by mechanical craftsmanship, the GPHG Exhibition promises an extraordinary experience.

From 28 September to 1 October 2026, Mumbai becomes a destination where innovation, artistry and centuries of watchmaking tradition come together, offering a glimpse into the future of haute horlogerie.

Hublot Big Bang Summer 2026: Pastel Ceramic Innovation Meets Swiss Watchmaking

Most luxury watch launches follow a familiar formula. New dial colour. Slight case update. A movement you’ve probably seen before.

The Hublot Big Bang Summer 2026 collection takes a different approach.

Inspired by the colours of the Mediterranean, Hublot’s latest seasonal release combines mint green, pink and sky blue ceramic in a bold expression of the brand’s expertise in materials innovation. At first glance, the collection feels playful and relaxed. Look closer, however, and you’ll find manufacture chronograph and tourbillon movements that showcase the technical side of modern Hublot watchmaking.

For a brand that has made summer part of its identity since 2017, the 2026 collection continues a tradition of turning seasonal inspiration into something genuinely distinctive.

A Celebration of Colour and Ceramic Innovation

At the heart of the Big Bang Summer 2026 collection is Hublot’s mastery of coloured ceramic.

The brand notes that since 2018 it has continuously expanded its palette of high-tech coloured ceramics, developing proprietary processes that allow vibrant colours to maintain durability, scratch resistance and long-term stability. According to Hublot, its ceramic is up to 300 Vickers harder than traditional ceramic while retaining exceptional resistance to everyday wear.

This expertise is on full display in the new Big Bang Summer models, where pink, mint green and sky blue ceramic components come together in a single case design inspired by Mediterranean landscapes, from soft sunrise tones to colourful seaside sunsets.

Big Bang Summer Multi-Colored Ceramic 42mm

Leading the collection is the Big Bang Summer Multi-Colored Ceramic 42mm, produced in a limited edition of 200 pieces worldwide.

The watch features a case crafted from microblasted and polished pink and mint green ceramic, paired with a sky-blue ceramic bezel and matching caseback. The dial continues the colour theme with matte pink and mint green tones that echo the soft palette of the Mediterranean summer.

Powering the watch is Hublot’s manufacture HUB1280 Unico self-winding flyback chronograph movement with column wheel architecture. The calibre operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and delivers approximately 72 hours of power reserve.

Each watch is supplied with interchangeable rubber straps in sky blue, mint green and pink, allowing owners to quickly change the look of the watch using Hublot’s One-Click strap system.

Big Bang Summer Multi-Colored Ceramic 44mm Tourbillon

For collectors seeking greater exclusivity, Hublot has created the Big Bang Summer Multi-Colored Ceramic 44mm Tourbillon, limited to just 10 pieces worldwide.

While it shares the same pastel ceramic colour palette as the chronograph model, this version adopts a more architectural appearance thanks to a transparent pink sapphire crystal dial that reveals the movement beneath. The transparency creates an impressive sense of depth while allowing the mechanical details to take centre stage.

The watch is powered by the manufacture HUB6035 automatic tourbillon movement. Visible through the sapphire architecture is a micro-rotor designed to optimise energy efficiency, while the movement provides approximately 72 hours of power reserve.

Like its chronograph counterpart, the Tourbillon is delivered with three interchangeable rubber straps in matching summer colours.

New Monochrome Ceramic Colours Join the Big Bang Collection

Alongside the limited-edition Summer models, Hublot has expanded the Big Bang collection with new monochrome ceramic references in Peach, Mint Green and Petrol Blue.

These watches present a softer expression of Hublot’s ceramic expertise while maintaining the bold character that has defined the Big Bang since its introduction.

A particularly notable addition is the 33mm Big Bang collection. For the first time in the history of the Big Bang, the 33mm model is offered without diamonds, allowing the monochromatic ceramic design to become the focal point. The watches are powered by the self-winding HUB1120 movement and are available in Peach, Mint Green and Petrol Blue ceramic.

Big Bang Titanium Peach Ceramic 42mm

Completing the line-up is the Big Bang Titanium Peach Ceramic 42mm.

Combining a satin-finished and polished titanium case with a polished peach ceramic bezel, the watch is powered by the manufacture HUB1280 Unico flyback chronograph movement. The peach theme extends across the skeletonised dial and structured rubber strap, creating a cohesive design while retaining the technical appeal associated with the Big Bang collection.

The watch offers approximately 72 hours of power reserve and 100 metres of water resistance.

Final Thoughts

The Hublot Big Bang Summer 2026 collection demonstrates the brand’s continued commitment to combining innovative materials with contemporary watchmaking.

While the vibrant pastel colours immediately capture attention, the collection is supported by manufacture chronograph and tourbillon movements, advanced ceramic technology and Hublot’s signature approach to design.

From the limited-edition multi-coloured ceramic models to the new monochrome Peach, Mint Green and Petrol Blue references, the collection offers a fresh interpretation of summer through the lens of modern Swiss watchmaking.

In a year filled with new luxury watch launches, the Big Bang Summer 2026 collection stands out not only for its colour palette, but also for the technical expertise that lies beneath it.

Hublot Antikythera: Exploring the Origins of Time Through Archaeology, Innovation and Watchmaking

Hublot’s Extraordinary Journey to the Island of Antikythera

The story of watchmaking is ultimately the story of humanity’s quest to understand time. Few projects illustrate this connection more vividly than Hublot’s latest expedition to the Greek island of Antikythera, a place that continues to fascinate historians, scientists and watch enthusiasts alike.

As part of its ongoing commitment to scientific research, innovation and heritage preservation, Hublot has partnered with Swiss content creator Anil Brancaleoni to document an extraordinary scientific mission to Antikythera. The resulting documentary, available on the Hublot and Anil B YouTube channels, offers a fascinating look at the intersection of ancient history, pioneering exploration and cutting-edge technology in the search for what Hublot calls the “origin of time.”

Why Antikythera Matters

Antikythera is a small Greek island that became famous after the discovery of an ancient shipwreck in 1901. Among the treasures recovered from the wreck was the Antikythera Mechanism, a remarkable device dating to around 60 BCE.

Widely regarded as the world’s oldest known astronomical calculator, the mechanism was capable of predicting celestial events, tracking eclipses and calculating the movements of stars and planets with astonishing accuracy. Its complexity revealed a level of technological sophistication far ahead of what historians once believed possible for the ancient world.

More than two thousand years after its creation, the Antikythera Mechanism remains one of history’s most important scientific discoveries and continues to inspire modern innovation.

Hublot Xplorations and the Search Beneath the Sea

Since 2014, Hublot’s dedicated Hublot Xplorations department has played an active role in missions to Antikythera, spending more than two weeks each year supporting archaeological dive teams working at the historic wreck site.

Specialising in research and development, the team has created advanced underwater technologies, including state-of-the-art drones designed to help archaeologists locate artefacts still buried beneath the seabed. These innovations enable more accurate exploration while helping preserve the fragile underwater environment surrounding the wreck.

The latest documentary follows Hublot Xplorations and Anil Brancaleoni during an 18-day expedition alongside an international team of archaeologists, divers and specialists investigating one of the most important underwater archaeological sites in the world.

The Watch That Brought Ancient Astronomy to the Wrist

Hublot’s connection to Antikythera extends beyond exploration.

In 2012, the Swiss watchmaker unveiled the MP-04 Antikythera, a groundbreaking concept watch inspired directly by the famous ancient mechanism. Designed to reproduce the astronomical functions of its ancient predecessor on a wristwatch scale, the timepiece represented an extraordinary technical achievement.

The MP-04 Antikythera incorporated highly complex indications inspired by the original device, including displays linked to lunar cycles, eclipses, zodiac positions and astronomical calendars. Through this ambitious project, Hublot demonstrated how ancient scientific ingenuity could inspire modern haute horlogerie.

The Antikythera SunMoon Legacy

A year later, Hublot expanded the concept with the Antikythera SunMoon.

Inspired by the world of the Antikythera Mechanism, the watch features displays for both the sun and moon while offering a unique indication of the actual zodiac sign corresponding to a specific date. Unlike conventional zodiac interpretations, the watch takes into account the precession of the equinoxes, delivering a more scientifically accurate representation.

The Antikythera SunMoon remains one of the most unusual and technically fascinating creations in Hublot’s history, reflecting the brand’s passion for combining science, astronomy and watchmaking.

Innovation Beyond Traditional Watchmaking

The Antikythera project highlights a lesser-known side of Hublot’s activities.

Through Hublot Xplorations, the brand actively supports scientific research, technological development and cultural preservation initiatives. Beyond underwater archaeology, the programme has contributed to ambitious projects including the European Space Agency’s ExoMars mission, reinforcing Hublot’s commitment to exploration and discovery.

This approach reflects Hublot’s long-standing philosophy of the “Art of Fusion”, bringing together diverse worlds including technology, science, history and watchmaking.

A Modern Exploration of Humanity’s Relationship with Time

For watch enthusiasts, the Antikythera story offers a compelling reminder that the fascination with measuring time predates modern horology by centuries.

By supporting archaeological research and developing technologies that help uncover humanity’s scientific heritage, Hublot is contributing to a deeper understanding of one of history’s most remarkable achievements.

The Antikythera expedition is not simply an exploration of an ancient shipwreck. It is an exploration of humanity’s enduring desire to understand the cosmos, measure the passage of time and push the boundaries of knowledge.

In that respect, the mission embodies the very spirit of watchmaking itself.

Final Thoughts

Hublot’s involvement in Antikythera demonstrates how a modern luxury watch brand can contribute meaningfully to scientific research and cultural preservation while remaining connected to the values that define fine watchmaking.

Through Hublot Xplorations, advanced underwater technology and a shared passion for discovery, the brand continues to bridge the gap between ancient innovation and modern horology.

The result is a fascinating journey that reminds us that the quest to understand time is as relevant today as it was more than two millennia ago.

Zenith G.F.J. Bloodstone Edition Revives the Legendary Calibre 135 in Yellow Gold

Few movements have left a mark on watchmaking quite like Zenith’s Calibre 135. Revered by collectors and historians alike, it remains one of the most successful chronometer movements ever created. Now, Zenith continues that story with a striking new interpretation of the G.F.J., pairing the modern Calibre 135 with a distinctive bloodstone dial and an elegant yellow-gold case.

Limited to just 161 pieces, the latest G.F.J. is more than a new aesthetic variation. It reinforces the collection’s role as the permanent home of a movement that helped define Zenith’s reputation for precision.

A Movement That Defined an Era

Zenith’s pursuit of chronometric excellence dates back to the late nineteenth century. Over the decades, the manufacture accumulated an unmatched 2,333 chronometry prizes, establishing itself as one of the most accomplished names in precision watchmaking.

At the centre of that success was the Calibre 135.

Produced from 1949 to 1962, the movement was developed specifically for observatory timing competitions. Its competition-specification version, known as the 135-O, earned an extraordinary 235 chronometry awards, including five consecutive first-place victories at the Neuchâtel Observatory between 1950 and 1954, a record that remains unbeaten.

When Zenith introduced the G.F.J. collection in 2025, named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot, it provided a contemporary platform for the rebirth of this historic movement. The collection’s debut was recognised with the Chronometry Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2025.

Re-Engineering the Calibre 135 for Modern Watchmaking

Rather than simply recreating a vintage movement, Zenith chose to re-engineer the Calibre 135 for contemporary use while preserving the defining characteristics that made it famous.

The hand-wound calibre retains its original 30mm diameter, oversized balance wheel and leisurely frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour. At the same time, it incorporates modern technical improvements designed to enhance reliability and performance.

The movement now offers a 72-hour power reserve, an optimised gear train, a large balance wheel with regulation screws and a traditional Breguet overcoil hairspring. A stop-seconds mechanism allows precise time setting, while each movement is regulated to an impressive accuracy of ±2 seconds per day and certified by COSC.

Visible through the sapphire caseback, the calibre features broad Côtes de Genève decoration, hand-finished bevels, a dark ruthenium finish and gold-coloured engravings that create an elegant contrast against the movement’s architecture.

The Beauty of Bloodstone

The defining feature of this edition is its remarkable dial.

Zenith maintains the G.F.J.’s signature three-part construction while introducing a centre section crafted from bloodstone, a variety of jasper known for its deep green appearance and naturally occurring red inclusions. Because every stone is unique, no two dials are exactly alike.

The centre section is framed by a finely executed guilloché outer ring inspired by the brick façade of the Zenith Manufacture in Le Locle, a subtle tribute to Georges Favre-Jacot’s vision of vertically integrated watchmaking.

At six o’clock sits an oversized small-seconds display crafted from mother-of-pearl, adding both visual contrast and depth.

Applied yellow-gold hour markers and faceted yellow-gold hands complete the composition, balancing warmth, texture and refinement.

Vintage Proportions with Contemporary Elegance

The G.F.J. Bloodstone Edition is housed in an 18-carat yellow-gold case measuring 39.15mm in diameter and 10.5mm in thickness.

Its stepped bezel, curved lugs and slender profile draw inspiration from mid-century chronometers, while the warm glow of yellow gold gives the watch a distinctly contemporary presence.

The proportions feel particularly well judged, offering vintage elegance without sacrificing modern wearability.

Limited to 161 Pieces

Zenith will produce only 161 examples of the G.F.J. Bloodstone Edition worldwide.

The watch is delivered with three strap options: a beige nubuck alligator strap, a green alligator strap and a black calfskin strap, each fitted with an 18-carat yellow-gold pin buckle. Collectors can also opt for an 18-carat yellow-gold bracelet equipped with a double folding clasp.

G.F.J.
Reference: 30.1865.0135/56.C216

Key points: Rebirth of the Legendary calibre 135. COSC-certified movement. Breguet Hairspring.
Stop-second mechanism. Manual winding. Limited to 161.
Movement: Calibre 135
Frequency: 18,000 VpH (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours
Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Small seconds at 6 o’clock.
Finishes: Côtes de Genève with Ruthenium finishing
Material: 18-ct yellow gold
Water resistance: 5 ATM
Case: 39.15mm / Thickness: 10.5 mm / Lug to lug: 45.75 mm
Dial: Signature brick guilloché on the outer ring with a jasper “bloodstone” centre and a mother-ofpearl small-seconds counter.
Hour markers: 18-ct yellow gold applied indices
Hands: 18-ct yellow gold faceted
Bracelet & Buckle: Delivered with a beige nubuck alligator leather strap, a green alligator leather strap and a black calfskin leather strap, fitted with a yellow gold pin buckle. Optional for purchase: 18-ct yellow gold bracelet with double folding clasp.

Final Thoughts

The Zenith G.F.J. Bloodstone Edition succeeds because it focuses on substance rather than nostalgia. The watch celebrates one of the most important chronometer movements ever produced while demonstrating how historical watchmaking achievements can remain relevant today.

The combination of the re-engineered Calibre 135, a unique bloodstone dial and an elegant yellow-gold case results in a watch that feels both rooted in history and entirely contemporary. For collectors who appreciate chronometric excellence and meaningful horological heritage, the latest G.F.J. represents one of Zenith’s most compelling releases of the year.

AWAKE Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Combines Hand Guilloché and Vietnamese Lacquer

When Two Rare Crafts Meet on a Watch Dial

Independent watchmaker AWAKE has introduced the new Sơn Mài – Guilloché Main collection, a series that brings together two traditional decorative arts rarely seen at this level of execution in contemporary watchmaking: hand-operated guilloché engraving and Vietnamese Sơn Mài lacquer work.

The collection also marks the debut of a new 38 mm case for the brand, shifting AWAKE toward more compact and classically proportioned watchmaking while maintaining a distinctly modern design language. Limited to 200 pieces each across three dial variations, the collection focuses heavily on craftsmanship, texture, and light interaction rather than excessive complication or overt luxury cues.

A Rare Combination of Decorative Arts

What makes the collection notable is the combination of two highly specialized crafts executed by separate artisan workshops across Europe and Asia. AWAKE collaborates with the Renzetti family in Italy for the guilloché work and with master lacquer artisans in Vietnam for the Sơn Mài finishing.

The guilloché patterns are created entirely by hand using historic straight-line and rose-engine machines dating back to the 19th century. Unlike stamped or CNC-generated textures commonly seen today, these patterns rely entirely on manual control, with artisans simultaneously guiding both the dial and cutting tool to engrave hundreds of precise grooves into the metal surface.

Once engraved, the dials are sent to Hanoi where layers of natural Sơn Mài lacquer are applied and polished repeatedly to create depth, transparency, and shifting color gradients. Derived from the sap of the Rhus Verniciflua tree, the lacquer develops a distinctive visual richness that changes depending on lighting conditions.

The result is a dial construction that feels more architectural than decorative. Rather than sitting on top of the guilloché, the lacquer amplifies the engraved patterns underneath, creating a layered surface that changes character throughout the day.

Three Celestial-Inspired Dial Variations

The collection is offered in three executions, each inspired by different atmospheric and celestial phenomena.

Sunset

The “Sunset” model features a drapé-moiré guilloché pattern inspired by wave-like ocean movement. Around one hundred engraved grooves create flowing textures beneath layered lacquer shades of pink, violet, and blue. The final effect resembles fading light reflecting across water during sunset conditions.

Alba

The “Alba” edition takes inspiration from sunrise energy through a helical guilloché motif designed to evoke movement and momentum. Warm lacquer tones intensify the engraved geometry underneath, producing a more dynamic and radiant visual profile.

Borealis

The “Borealis” dial uses a radiant guilloché pattern combined with cool-toned lacquer gradients intended to mirror the shifting reflections of the Northern Lights. Under changing light, the dial develops strong tonal transitions and pronounced depth.

Rather than treating color as a simple aesthetic choice, AWAKE uses lacquer almost like a lens over the engraved metal surface, allowing the dial texture to evolve depending on viewing angle and ambient light.

A More Refined Case Design

The introduction of the 38 mm stainless steel case represents a significant design evolution for the brand. With a lug-to-lug measurement of 44.75 mm and a thickness of 11.5 mm including the crystal, the proportions position the watch firmly within the growing preference for smaller, more wearable case sizes.

The case combines polished and brushed surfaces with a concave bezel and softly curved lugs that reference mid-century watch design without feeling overtly vintage. A domed sapphire crystal enhances the dial presentation, while the redesigned screw-down crown now delivers 100 meters of water resistance.

AWAKE has also introduced a new handwritten logo and emblem for the collection, emphasizing the brand’s growing focus on artisanal craftsmanship and cultural storytelling. Thankfully, the branding remains understated and complements the watch rather than competing with it.

Night-Time Legibility Without Sacrificing Dial Integrity

One of the more thoughtful technical details in the collection is the luminous execution. The hands and indices use Super-LumiNova BGW9 combined with steel caps featuring brushed, polished, and engraved finishing.

This construction allows the lume to remain visually discreet during daylight while still delivering strong night-time visibility. More importantly, it preserves the visual purity of the dial, ensuring the lacquer and guilloché work remain the dominant elements.

La Joux-Perret G101 Movement

Powering the collection is the Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G101 automatic calibre with a 68-hour power reserve.

The movement features a custom tungsten rotor finished with alternating brushed, polished, and micro-blasted surfaces. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the calibre reinforces the collection’s balance between decorative craftsmanship and practical modern watchmaking.

While the watches are clearly dial-focused creations, the use of the G101 gives the collection strong everyday usability and reliability, rather than positioning it purely as an artistic object.

Jean Rousseau Straps and Wearability

The collection is paired with Alcantara straps produced by French strap specialist Jean Rousseau. Available in green, violet, or orange, the straps feature colored stitching, rubberized calfskin lining, curved quick-release spring bars, and AWAKE’s new Fitwell M1 micro-adjustable pin buckle with 3 mm adjustment increments.

It is a small but meaningful detail. Independent brands often focus so heavily on dial artistry that wearability becomes secondary. Here, the strap and clasp system appear designed with daily comfort in mind.

Technical Specifications

  • Case: 316L stainless steel
  • Diameter: 38 mm
  • Thickness: 11.5 mm including crystal
  • Lug-to-lug: 44.75 mm
  • Water resistance: 100 meters
  • Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire
  • Movement: La Joux-Perret G101 automatic
  • Power reserve: 68 hours
  • Limited edition: 200 pieces per dial variant
  • Strap: Jean Rousseau Alcantara with adjustable buckle

Final Thoughts

The Sơn Mài – Guilloché Main collection succeeds because it treats craftsmanship as the foundation of the watch rather than a decorative afterthought. Many modern artisan-focused releases rely heavily on storytelling, but here the techniques themselves shape the identity of the piece.

By combining hand-operated guilloché with traditional Vietnamese lacquer work, AWAKE has created a collection that feels culturally layered, technically interesting, and visually distinctive without becoming theatrical. The restrained 38 mm sizing and accessible pricing further strengthen the proposition, especially in a market where genuine métiers d’art execution is increasingly associated with far higher price points.

There is a quiet confidence to this collection. It does not attempt to overwhelm with complexity or spectacle. Instead, it focuses on texture, craftsmanship, proportion, and the human hand behind every detail. Rare qualities in modern watchmaking, where half the industry seems convinced another skeletonized tourbillon shaped like a lunar insect is what humanity truly needed.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36: Colour, Done the Rolex Way

Rolex doesn’t usually play with colour like this.
And when it does, it’s never casual.

The new Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 looks playful at first glance—but give it a moment, and it settles into something far more familiar.

This is still Rolex. Just… confidently more vibrant.

The POV

There’s a fine line between expressive and excessive. Most brands either cross it—or avoid it entirely.

Rolex walks it.

A multicolour dial. Repeated lettering. A motif that immediately draws the eye. On paper, this should feel like too much.

It doesn’t.

Because nothing here is random. The colours are measured. The layout is controlled. Even the repetition of the Rolex name feels structured rather than loud.

This isn’t Rolex chasing attention.
It’s Rolex exploring just how far it can go—without losing its identity.

What’s New

  • Multicolour lacquer dial with a revisited Jubilee motif
  • Rolex lettering repeated across the dial as part of the design
  • A colour palette that feels refined rather than loud
  • Classic 36mm Oyster case retained
  • Automatic movement with Superlative Chronometer certification
  • Oyster bracelet with Oysterclasp

No reinvention of the watch itself—just a shift in how it expresses itself.

Technical Breakdown

Movement (Under the Hood)

Inside, nothing flashy—just one of Rolex’s most reliable engines.

  • Calibre 3230 (in-house automatic movement)
  • Approx. 70-hour power reserve
  • Chronergy escapement for efficiency
  • Parachrom hairspring for shock and temperature resistance

In real terms:
You can take it off for a couple of days, put it back on, and it just keeps going.

Case & Build

This is where Rolex stays uncompromising.

  • 36mm Oyster case
  • Oystersteel (904L corrosion-resistant steel)
  • Screw-down crown with Twinlock system
  • Monobloc middle case construction
  • Water resistance: 100 metres

This is still a daily watch at heart—built to handle life, not just sit in a box.

Dial Construction (Where It Gets Interesting)

What looks playful is actually highly controlled.

  • Multiple layers of lacquer (built up gradually)
  • Controlled environment during production
  • Finished with varnish and polishing for depth

That colour isn’t applied—it’s built. Slowly, layer by layer.

Bracelet & Wearability

  • Oyster bracelet (three-piece solid links)
  • Oysterclasp with Easylink extension (5mm comfort adjustment)

Small detail, big impact—this is what makes it easy to wear every day.

Legibility & Everyday Use

  • Chromalight display (long-lasting blue lume)
  • Clean, highly legible dial layout

Even with all the colour, it still reads like a proper tool watch.

Certification

  • Superlative Chronometer certification
  • Precision: -2/+2 seconds per day

Rolex doesn’t just test the movement—it tests the finished watch.

Design Breakdown: Why This Works

1. The Colours
They’re not aggressive. They’re controlled, slightly softened, and intentionally balanced.

2. The Jubilee Motif
Less decoration, more structure. It gives the dial rhythm without overwhelming it.

3. The Rolex Lettering
This could have been too much. Instead, it becomes texture—part of the design rather than branding.

Why It Matters

Most watches try to stand out.
Rolex doesn’t need to.

So when it chooses to do something visually different, it’s worth paying attention.

This watch shows that Rolex can experiment—without ever looking like it’s trying too hard.

And that’s rare.

Who It’s For

  • Someone who already owns a classic Rolex
  • Someone ready for a bit of personality—but not chaos
  • Someone who values detail over obvious statements

This isn’t a first Rolex.
It’s a considered one.

EyesOnTime Verdict

This was a bold move—and it pays off.

What could have felt bright, busy, or overdone… doesn’t.

Instead, it comes together as something balanced, controlled, and entirely intentional.

This isn’t Rolex changing direction.
It’s Rolex stretching—just enough to remind you how good it is at staying itself.

Frederique Constant Carrée Moonphase Automatic

Frederique Constant expands its elegant Classics collection with the debut of the Classics Carrée Moonphase Automatic, marking the first time the iconic rectangular model features a standalone Moonphase complication.

A tribute to the refined aesthetics of the 1920s and 1930s, this new reference blends Art Deco geometry with classical Swiss watchmaking tradition. The Moonphase complication is positioned at six o’clock, offering visual symmetry with the “Frederique Constant Genève” signature at twelve.

Art Deco Design Meets Astronomical Heritage

The rectangular steel case measures 42.3mm in height and 30mm in width, maintaining a slim and graceful wrist presence. Its two-tiered polished profile subtly balances straight lines and gentle curves — a hallmark of vintage-inspired design.

Square and rectangular cases were once a technical challenge in watchmaking, often requiring round movements to be adapted within angular constructions. Frederique Constant continues that heritage while refining proportions for contemporary elegance.

Chevron Guilloché Dial in Silver or Blue

Collectors can choose between two sophisticated dial executions:

  • A silvered chevron guilloché dial with monochromatic refinement

  • A navy blue dial combining midnight blue and lunar grey tones

Both feature:

  • Twelve faceted applied hour markers

  • Dauphine hour and minute hands

  • Central seconds hand

  • Railway-style minute track

  • Crescent-shaped Moonphase aperture at six o’clock

The Moonphase display tracks the lunar cycle of 27 days, 7 hours, 43 minutes and 12 seconds, echoing horology’s deep connection to astronomy.

The subtle daily transition between lunar phases creates a poetic dialogue between the steady motion of the central hands and the almost imperceptible shift of the Moon.

FC-333 Automatic Calibre

Visible through a sapphire caseback, the watch is powered by the FC-333 automatic movement, a reliable calibre long used by the manufacture.

Specifications:

  • Automatic winding

  • 38-hour power reserve

  • Central hours, minutes, seconds

  • Moonphase complication

The movement reinforces Frederique Constant’s reputation for accessible luxury with traditional mechanical integrity.

Strap & Wearability

Each model is fitted with a calfskin strap featuring tone-on-tone stitching, enhancing its vintage elegance while maintaining modern comfort.

The rectangular dimensions ensure strong wrist presence without overwhelming proportions, making it suitable for both formal attire and refined daily wear.

Bvlgari at Geneva Watch Days 2025: When Thinness, Art, and Time Collide

Every September, Geneva comes alive with a different kind of energy. Instead of the closed, high-walled watch fairs of old, Geneva Watch Days spills into the city’s boutiques, riverside pavilions, and galleries. It feels more like a festival than a trade show—one where collectors, journalists, and curious passersby all share the same stage.

In 2025, few brands captured that spirit better than Bvlgari. The Roman jeweller-turned-watchmaker has spent the past decade redefining what modern horology can look like, and this year, its spotlight once again shone on the Octo Finissimo.

What began as a daringly thin wristwatch over ten years ago has now grown into a whole world of experimentation. And at Geneva Watch Days, Bvlgari unveiled three very different but equally compelling takes on its philosophy: one rooted in art, another in nature, and the third in time itself.

Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan × Bvlgari – Minimalism With a Soul

One of the fair’s most talked-about watches was Bvlgari’s collaboration with Lee Ufan, the Korean-Japanese artist known for his contemplative works that balance stillness and space.

At first glance, the watch’s mirrored dial looks almost simple. But like Ufan’s art, it asks you to slow down. The reflection turns every glance into a dialogue—between presence and absence, light and shadow, permanence and fragility.

The titanium case keeps things featherlight, while the ultra-thin micro-rotor movement inside reminds us that this is still a serious piece of horology. Produced in just 150 pieces, it’s less of a wristwatch and more of a wearable artwork—one that lives at the intersection of philosophy and precision.

Octo Finissimo Marble Tourbillon – Nature on the Wrist

If the Ufan collaboration was about reflection, the Marble Tourbillon was about permanence. Bvlgari dared to carve a dial from deep-blue Italian marble, a material as stubborn as it is beautiful. To thin it down enough for a watch dial without losing its character is a feat in itself.

 

Framed by a platinum case and powered by a hand-wound flying tourbillon, the watch looks like a slice of earth frozen in time. On the wrist, it feels less like jewellery and more like sculpture—quietly powerful, endlessly fascinating. Limited to just 30 pieces, it’s destined to be one of the most coveted watches from the entire fair.

Bvlgari Aluminium Bronzo – Watches That Evolve With You

While the Octo Finissimo grabbed headlines, Bvlgari also surprised collectors by giving its sporty Aluminium line a new twist: bronze.

Two models joined the family:

A Bronzo Chronograph with bold racing-style sub-dials and a rugged, sandblasted bronze case.

A Bronzo GMT, built for travellers, with a clean 24-hour scale and dual-time functionality.

The beauty of bronze lies in its changeability. Over time, it develops a patina unique to its wearer—no two watches will age the same way. In a world where luxury often feels polished to perfection, the Bronzo celebrates imperfection as a form of individuality.

Why These Watches Matter

Bvlgari’s Geneva Watch Days 2025 novelties aren’t just new models—they’re statements.

Form: The Octo Finissimo continues to lead the ultra-thin category, proving less really can be more.

Material: Marble and bronze push watchmaking into fresh, tactile territory.

Culture: Collaborations with artists like Lee Ufan remind us that watches can carry ideas as much as they carry hours.

Together, they show that Bvlgari isn’t just making timepieces—it’s exploring time itself.

Eleven Years of Record-Breaking Innovation

Alongside these novelties, Bvlgari also took time to reflect on the Octo Finissimo’s journey. At Geneva Watch Days 2025, the Maison presented its first full retrospective of the collection—an exhibition charting eleven years of relentless innovation and ten world records.

The Octo Finissimo is as much about architecture as it is about mechanics. Its octagonal case was inspired by the Basilica of Maxentius in Rome, translating Roman geometry into a contemporary design language. Over the past decade, this architecture has become the canvas for groundbreaking engineering and creative collaborations alike.

Key Milestones

2014 — The Beginning: The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon introduced the ultra-slim BVL 268 calibre, measuring just 1.95mm, setting the stage for record-breaking thinness.

2017 — Everyday Icon: The Octo Finissimo Automatic debuted at 5.15mm thick, proving ultra-thin could be practical, elegant, and wearable.

2021 — A Crown Achievement: The Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar in titanium not only claimed the record as the thinnest perpetual calendar at 5.80mm, but also won the Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

2025 — Breaking Limits Again: This year, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, unveiled at Watches and Wonders, stunned with a case just 1.85mm thick—a technical feat that almost defies belief.

The retrospective made one thing clear: the Octo Finissimo is more than a collection. It’s a statement of intent—Bvlgari’s relentless drive to push design, engineering, and artistry beyond the imaginable.

Final Thoughts

Walking away from Bvlgari’s showcase this year, one thing was clear: these aren’t watches that quietly tick in the background. They’re meant to start conversations, to spark curiosity, to evolve with you.

Whether it’s the reflective stillness of the Lee Ufan edition, the sculptural presence of the Marble Tourbillon, or the ever-changing Bronzo Aluminium, Bvlgari has given collectors pieces that feel alive.

For anyone who believes a watch should tell more than the time, Bvlgari’s 2025 lineup is proof that horology can be as poetic as it is precise.

Top 10 Salmon Coloured Dials To Look Out For

Gone are the days of monochrome watches and dull shades of time.

Today the watch scene is a burst with colours that can elevate the beauty of the timepiece. Brands are constantly looking to keep the watch enthusiasts enthralled and clamouring to outdo each other.

Every year there is a trend, yet sometimes, it is just a whiff of an era gone by that reappears in modern context and time.

Salmon Pink:

Is it the new go-to colour? Watch lovers and collectors have mentioned that the colour has been around since the thirties and yet it has made a reappearance lately, and quite vehemently too.

In 2019, when the popularity of salmon dials took off, the colour PANTONE 16-1546, “Living Coral”, was chosen as the year’s colour. The current dials in the market are all variations of the coral shade.

We put out the bait and some extraordinary timepieces caught it. Let us reel in some of the really warm catches that made it to our Salmon list.

A.Lange & Söhne:

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in 18-carat white gold houses a flyback chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon with a patented stop-seconds mechanism. Caliber: L952.2 Diameter: 41.5 mm

Discover the watch

Audemars Piguet:

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar houses a “Grande Tapisserie” dial with matching subdials in a Titanium case and is a limited edition of 300 pieces. Caliber: 5134 Diameter: 41 mm Water resistance: 20 m

Discover the watch

Breitling:

This Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 is a chronograph from the premier series with its complete calendar and moon phase. “Datora” is a term used by Breitling and refers to a complete calendar chronograph displaying the day, date, month and the different moon phases. The Datora is powered by the COSC-certified Manufacture Caliber: B25 Diameter: 42 mm Water resistance: 10 m

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Czapek:

The Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake S has the exclusive “Stairway to Eternity” dial. Calibre SXH5 is Czapek’s in-house self-winding mechanical movement. Integrated stainless steel bracelet with Czapek exclusive “Easy Release” system and micro-adjustment device. Calibre: SXH5  Diameter: 38.5 mm Water resistance: 120 m

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Grönefeld:

The Grönefeld 1941 Principia Automatic salmon dial, like the other choices, comes in solid sterling silver, housed in the company’s 1941 case in red gold, white gold or stainless steel. With its self-winding movement, the watch successfully harnesses gravity, making it ideal for daily wear. Calibre: G-06 Diameter: 39.5 mm Water resistance: 30 m

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IWC Schaffhausen:

This IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 comes in a compact stainless-steel case diameter of 40 millimetres, with its characteristic elegance. This simple, organised open dial is visually soothing and the minute’s scale and small seconds at 6 o’clock are pretty unintrusive. The dial is a sunray finish. Calibre: 82200 Diameter: 40.4 mm Water resistance: 30 m

 

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Laurent Ferrier:

This Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit features a salmon pink dial that captures the breath-taking beauty of the sky at sunrise. The architecture of the Grand Sport case in titanium evokes the elegant, timeless curves of racing cars. Calibre: LF619.01 Diameter: 44 mm Water resistance: 100 m

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Montblanc:

Montblanc Heritage Monopusher Chronograph Salmon-coloured domed dial featuring two different finishes gives the timepiece an elegant and sophisticated aesthetic. Comes with black rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes and Minerva Manufacture embossing on the case back. It is a chronograph with central second-hand and a 30-minute counter. Caliber: MB 25.12 Diameter: 42 mm Water resistance: 50 m

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Patek Philippe:

The Patek Philippe 5935A-001 is a self-winding World Time flyback chronograph that indicates the time in 24 time zones. Known as Rose-gilt opaline, the salmon dial is cased in steel with a sapphire crystal case back. It has an exclusive patented mechanism to correct all displays with a single pusher at 10 o’clock. Caliber: CH 28-520 HU Diameter: 41 mm Water resistance: 30 m

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Vacheron Constantin:

The Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5000T/000P-B975 43 MM Platinum contains a column-wheel chronograph and a perpetual calendar. Caliber: 1142 QP Diameter: 43 mm

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Hot Landing – Bomberg Watches in India

The Myth

When one thinks of Swiss Watches, the imagery conjured up is often sophisticated, subtle, elegant and luxurious.

But what if you are looking for a Swiss Watch that is unlimited in its creativity, audacity, and seductive? A watch that is not ashamed of being different, of standing out loud and proud of shouting from the mountaintops what it wants to say. Because who says one should not push the boundaries too hard or remove oneself from a comfort zone to experience the thrill of life? Step out and find out.

The Meaning

Bomberg Watches embraces ingenuity and invites you to celebrate a part of you that is forever challenging traditional norms. The whole idea of these superior yet daringly different watches is to free the drama that jostles to see the daylight but is stifled to fit into the norms. The brand has been branching off the beaten track to create timepieces that are as offbeat as they come while staying true to the Swiss tradition of innovation and avante garde. We invite you to come to check out the watches and unleash your rebellious side.

The Map

What is more interesting is that now the brand is available in India at Johnson Watch company in Delhi.

Known for its swagger style Delhi was a logical choice for the brand to make its entry into the country. But look out for it because it will soon spread across the country like wildfire.

The brand has a cult following of its own across the world.

You can also follow the brand on Instagram @bombergofficial

We had a tough time picking favourites since each timepiece is unique in its expression. Currently, we present a few intricate and powerful pieces from their four collections and we look forward to seeing more watches on the wrists.

Feast your eyes on these gorgeous pieces and dare to buy and flaunt one too.

The Machines

BB01: Automatic

Swiss watchmaking with a twist. An offset crown at 2 o’clock. A movement that’s not just automatic. It seems alive. Daring artwork on the dial. Meticulous craftsmanship on the case. A watch that doesn’t just tell time. Every detail tells a story.

BOLT-68: Racing

More than speed, performance and power. Precision. In every detail. The dial of a true racing chronograph. The distinctive red anodized stopwatch trigger. Intuitively positioned to the left of the crown. The knurled case. Time is now your instrument.

BOLT-68: Neo

A bold new aesthetic. Defiant dial art. Distinctive case design. A fresh take on time. Sharp contrasts of shapes, materials and textures. And with the hallmark crown at 12 o’clock, always a BOMBERG.

BOLT 68: Heritage

True potential. It starts with being true to your origins. The Heritage Collection is a bold tribute to the timeless tradition of Swiss watchmaking. And just as timeless: the hallmark bullhead constellation with the crown and pushers at 12 o’clock.

Follow us on Instagram @eyesontime for more updates and images of the brand.

Featured Watches in the Article:-

Top Luxury Watches for the Indian Wedding Season

The monsoon is making the world clean and green. Soon after it will be time for new beginnings. As the wedding season approaches after the rains, the most awaited preparation is shopping for one’s special day. For women, it is mostly clothes, shoes, bags, make-up and jewelry. But for men, this is the time to indulge in a few goodies of their own choice too. Be it grooming, or looking for experiential events a fair share of materialistic goodies are also sought. Here are some top luxury watches for the Indian wedding season especially for couples.

The watch industry sees a boom during this time around too. An increasing number of men and women are now looking at investing in luxury watches. Having said that the emphasis is on Swiss watches. A watch is no longer just an accessory thrown together in a hurry, mismatched, or hardly talked about.

Watches today are a centerpiece of a conversation, often starting some genuinely interesting dialogues that can forge long-term friendships and inclusion in exclusive clubs. So when one is investing, a term preferred versus buying, because the timepieces we are going to talk about can be looked upon as not only investments but in certain cases also heirlooms you can leave for the generations to come.

These are a few luxury watch brands that come into top consideration.

Whether it is a dress watch, mechanical watch, sports watch, or simply a classic elegant piece, there are a plethora of choices at varying price points. In short, there is something for everyone whether one is a novice entering the world of time or a serious time collector.

If you are a close relative/ friend of the couple and are looking at gifting them couple watches here are a few pairs you must give a dekko.

ROLEX

You can never go wrong with a classy brand like Rolex. It is one of the most sought-after brands and one well worth the wait.

HUBLOT

Hublot is known for its “Art of Fusion”.  The brand has been successfully disrupting the watch industry by innovating the use of different materials to make collectible time art.

OMEGA

Omega is a brand well established in the luxury watch segment and the Constellation Series is one of the fastest selling and elegance personified.

ZENITH

Zenith is a brand that is quietly been raising the bar in the luxury watch industry. It is well-known as the most rooted-in-history brand.

ARMIN STROM

Armin Strom watches are mechanically exceptional and meticulously well-finished.

GIRARD PERREGAUX

Girard Perregaux pushes the boundaries of design and innovation in watchmaking

Apart from looking at couple/pair watches, some watches are designed to reflect individual personalities and choices. We shall explore these soon.

Featured Watches in the Article:-

Wonderful Novelties at Watches and Wonders – Day 1

The excitement was palpable and there was a buzz in the city of Geneva which woke up to the first day of Watches and Wonders. This was the day everyone was looking forward to since 2020. The wonderful novelties that were unveiled at Watches and Wonders on day 1 were long awaited. The watch was on.

All the brands were eager to welcome trade partners and watch enthusiasts and the visitors were equally elated to see the wonderful novelties displayed in all their splendor. The fruit of the hard labor was ripe, and all the innovations were ready to see the lights.

The convention was kickstarted with a beautiful opening ceremony and several brands had keynote addresses. But the moment the novelties were unveiled the magic began.

The first day saw a mix of brands and here’s a rundown on day one at the most happening event.

Armin Strom: Orbit

What is unique about this spectacularly beautiful piece?

It is the world’s first watch with an on-demand date indicated on the bezel. The pusher at 10 when pushed shows the date on the bezel for a few seconds. The date hand when in the stationary mode, remains in its fixed position pointing at 12 o’clock.

Their signature bridges, hold the micro-rotor at the one o’clock position, and the equal force barrel at the 6 o’clock position. The watch comes with transparency that is unique in the watch industry highlighting the inner workings of mechanical watchmaking on the dial-side. It comes with an integrated bracelet and a contrasting ceramic bezel. A sport-chic watch that is flaunt-worthy.

Discover the timepiece here: https://arminstrom.com/en/collection/system-78/orbit-first-edition/?v=ee2d312f5477

Chopard: Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillion

The Alpine Eagle flying tourbillion is a watch made in Lucent Steel making it 50% harder and more luminous. The well-highlighted flying tourbillon placed at 6 o’clock has no upper bridge and you can see right through to the movement.

The brushed dial starts at the tourbillion moving outwards. With an integrated bracelet, the watch is simple and yet a delightful piece.

Discover the timepiece here: https://www.chopard.com/intl/alpine-eagle-flying-tourbillon-298616-3001

Cartier: Tank Chinoise

A comeback after a century, in an art-deco design, rectangular and true to its vertical brancards design the Tank Chionese is as simple and elegant as they come. With two additional brancards across the top and bottom of the square case, it evokes the portico design.

In a beautifully polished gold case, its iconic design and shape with “chemin de fer” and the hidden Cartier signature it is a watch that puts geometry in fashion.

As part of the Cartier Privé collection, there are six models in this collection. Three models, in yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum. Made to a limited 150 pieces per model. There are also additional 3 models with see-through dials and skeletonized movements. The traditional Chinese window designs are eye-catching and made in a limited quantity of 100 pieces each.

IWC Schaffhausen; Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Edition Woodland

IWC has new models in its Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Edition. We are going to talk about Woodland here.  Featuring in sombre green ceramic with Ceratanium® at the case back and the pushers this watch looks as cool as the forests the pilots fly over. It is a double pusher chronograph, with the 30-minute and hour counter on the dial.

The indices look green but look nicely lit. Following the monochromatic design, the rubber strap continues to run in green with a fabric inlay. Each of the two models will be made in a quantity of 1,000 pieces.

Discover the timepiece here: https://www.iwc.com/en/watch-collections/pilot-watches/iw389106-pilot_s-watch-chronograph-top-gun-edition-woodland.html

Laurent Ferrier

A grade 5 Titanium, case making this an extremely light watch. The dial is in a blue gradient starting with a lighter centre and growing outwards to a darker blue. The assegai watch hands go so well with white gold indices adding to the elegance of the watch.

At the back is a see-through manual winding movement hand-finished and refined.

Discover the timepiece here: https://laurentferrier.ch/products/classic-origin-blue?variant=41961889759394

Tag Heuer: Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph

Tag Heuer forays into its first solar-powered watch with a TH50-00 caliber.

The dial is transparent and allows the sunlight to enter the movement to power it up. Just two minutes in full sunlight can power it up for a day. It also lightens up the Super-Luminova that features on the carbon bezel as well as indices. If the timepiece stops working exposure of 10 seconds to sunlight can restart the watch.

A sporty watch that professional divers can take down to the depth of 200 meters. Comes with a power-saving mode.

Discover the timepiece here: https://www.tagheuer.com/in/en/event/tag-heuer-aquaracer-professional-200-solargraph.html

Test-tube Time – Rebellion

Rebellion has done it yet again.

If glass tubes excite you here is what is going to blow your mind. The Weap-One biaxial Tourbillon is an ingenious creation that embeds the flying tourbillon in a neat package that turns out to be a wristwatch in a slender 25 mm diameter and 53 mm long sapphire and titanium case.

The tourbillion gyrates as if suspended on two axis while its flying tourbillion function negates the effects of gravity and manages to look splendid at the same time.

Once the mechanism is wound you have 50 hours of power reserve. Without distorting the cylindrical shape two flat titanium crowns are perfectly integrated, the left-hand one is dedicated to setting the time and the right-hand one to winding the calibre.

Two rollers at the two ends display the hours and minutes with the numerals coloured by Super-Luminova®.

The back of the watch is flat for that comfortable fit on the wrist. But overall, this looks like a vial of time on your hands.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Case materials: Black DLC titanium

Glass tube: Scratch resistant sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment

Case dimensions: 26mm x 52.85mm

Colors: Green, white

Water resistance: 10m / 1 ATM

Movement: Manual movement developed by Concepto; Biaxial flying tourbillon

Functions: Hours and minutes

Jewels: 39

Balance frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)

Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap and buckle: Black textile, velcro closure with black DLC titanium buckle

Thin is in

And when it’s a renowned watch brand like Bvlgari everyone sits up and takes notice.

Bvlgari has consistently been breaking records since 2014 and this year to mark its 10th Anniversary of Octo Finissimo Collection the brand dropped a watch that has created quite a stir not only in the world of watchmaking but NFTs as well.

The feat to master the thinnest ever mechanical watch was no easy task and a very patient and diligent dedication finally bore results that are not only aesthetically astounding but technically tenacious too.

The watch itself was a challenge but the integrated bracelet and the newly designed folding clasp had to match the thinness of the case. It took designer Concepto three years to accomplish something of this magnitude.

The Octo Finissimo Ultra measures 1.8mm with a 40mm diameter case in sandblasted tungsten carbide. The case back of the watch also serves as its main plate and carries the movement of the watch. The PVD-coated black hands stand out as a contrast against the grey background.

The first thing that you notice though is that the ratchet is engraved with a QR code unique to each of the 10 limited timepieces that are going to be made. The code is linked to an exclusive NFT and artwork that the watch owner will receive along with the watch opening endless possibilities to such digital partnerships in future and bridging the gap between real and virtual worlds.

The other thing you wonder is how to wind this thinner than a €0.10 coin masterpiece and then you notice the two rotating knobs for winding and adjusting the time.

While there is going to be a huge scramble to own the limited 10 watches made there will only of course be those lucky few who will proudly flaunt this wonder of a watch.

The rest of us will be left flat out and wanting more.

Availability: Limited edition of 10 pieces

Price: EUR 400,000

Featured Watches in the Article:-

Octo Finissimo Ultra Ref.: 103611

Love is a Luxury

And therefore, wanting something luxurious and beyond stunning is what any lady would like to have.

This Valentine’s Day I was inspired by the colour of love, passion and how it translates into a memorable time and the simplicity and elegance of this watch is what struck me.

As Jacob and Co describes this as a watch for all the important moments of a woman’s life, I would want this watch for the most important moment, now, this moment of life.

To describe this watch would be like putting words into the mouth of someone who is left gaping after one look at this mesmerizing high jewelry timepiece.

Imagine adorning your wrist with a gem-set timepiece that makes everyone else’s heart bleed to match the meticulously sourced rubies, matched for cut, clarity, quality, and color.

Powered by a high-precision Swiss Quartz JCGQ01 movement, the watch is always ready to ignite the passion of the wearer and the admirer.

Mastering the invisible setting of the baguette-cut precious stones is a feat that is no easy task and Jacob and Co’s expertise

You have to be someone very very special, unique and outstanding to buy/be gifted this watch as there are only Limited Individually Numbered 6 Pieces that are manufactured.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Item Number: BA534.40.BR.BR.A

Movement: Swiss Quartz ETA Caliber 955.432; Jewels: 7 Jewels

Functions: Hours and Minutes

Case: Diameter: 44mm
Thickness: 12mm
Material: Polished; 18K Rose Gold
Full Case Invisibly Set with 226 Baguette Rubies
Crown Set with 12 Baguette Rubies and One Rose Cut Ruby
Case Back: Circular Satin-finished and Engraved
Crystal: Sapphire with Anti-reflective Treatment
Water resistance: 30m

Dial: 187 Baguette Rubies
Hands: Leaf.
Strap & Buckle: Alligator
18K Rose Gold Tang Buckle Set with 21 Baguette Rubies
Total Carat Weight: 446 Baguette and One Rose Cut Rubies (≈30.71 ct.).

Warranty: 2 Years.

Limited Edition: 6 Pieces; Individually Numbered Pieces

Featured Watches in the Article:-

BRILLIANT FULL BAGUETTE RUBIES BA534.40.BR.BR.A

WATCH GLOSSARY

What are the parts of a watch?

We list here a Glossary that will give you a list of what is relevant to a watch.

A

  • A/H Or Alterations / Alternance Per Hour
  • Altimeter
  • Amplitude
  • Ana-Digi
  • Analog
  • Anchor Escapement
  • Anglage
  • Annual Calendar
  • Antimagnetic
  • Applied Indices (Appliqué Indices)
  • Art Deco
  • Automatic Movement
  • Automatic Winding
  • Aperture

B

  • Balance
  • Balance Spring
  • Balance Wheel
  • Beat
  • Bezel
  • Bi-Directional Rotating Bezel
  • Breguet Overcoil Hairspring
  • Bridge

C

  • Cabochon
  • Caliber
  • Case
  • Center, Or Sweep Seconds Hand
  • Chapter Ring
  • Chronograph
  • Chronometer
  • Column Wheel
  • Complication
  • Cosc (Or C.O.S.C.)
  • Crown
  • Crystal
  • Cyclops

D

  • Day-Date
  • Day/Night Indicator
  • Deployant Buckle
  • Dial
  • Digital

E

  • Ébauche
  • Eight-Day Movement
  • Escapement
  • Eta
  • Exhibition Case Back

F

  • Fine Adjustment
  • Flyback Chronograph
  • Frequency

G

  • Gasket
  • Geneva Seal
  • Geneva Stripes
  • Geneva Waves
  • Gmt
  • Grand Sonnerie
  • Guilloché

H

  • Hack, Hacking Seconds
  • Hairspring / Balance Spring
  • Hallmark
  • Hand-Wound Movement
  • Helium Escape Valve
  • Hertz Or Hz
  • Horology
  • Hour Markers
  • Hunter Pocket Watch

I

  • Incabloc
  • Indices

J

  • Jewels

K

  • Karat

L

  • Lcd
  • Led
  • Lepine Watch
  • Lever Escapement
  • Ligne
  • Limited-Edition Watch
  • Lugs
  • Luminescence

M

  • Magnetisim
  • Mainplate
  • Mainspring
  • Manual-Wind Movement
  • Manufacture
  • Mechanical Watch
  • Micro-Rotor
  • Minute Repeater
  • Moon-Phase Display
  • Motion Work
  • Movement

O

  • Oscillation

P

  • Pallet
  • Perlage
  • Perpetual Calendar
  • Plate
  • Power Reserve
  • Power-Reserve Indicator
  • Pusher
  • Pvd

Q

  • Quartz Watch
  • Quick-Set / Quick-Date

R

  • Radio-Controlled
  • Rattrapante
  • Regulation / Adjustment
  • Rehaut
  • Repeater
  • Retrograde Display
  • Rider Tabs
  • Rotor

S

  • Screw Back
  • Screw-Down Crown
  • Self-Compensating Hairspring
  • Shock Absorption
  • Shock Resistance
  • Skeletonized Movement
  • Slide Rule
  • Small Seconds Dial
  • Sonnerie
  • Spring Bar
  • Standard Time
  • Stem
  • Stop-Seconds Function
  • Strap
  • Subsidiary Dial
  • Sweeping Seconds Hand
  • Swiss Made

T

  • Tang Buckle
  • Tachymeter (Tachometer)
  • Time Zones
  • Tongue
  • Tonneau Watch
  • Tourbillon
  • Triple Date
  • Tritium

U

  • Uni-Directional Rotating Bezel

V

  • Vibrations, Vph

W

  • Water-Resistant
  • Wheel Train / Going Train
  • Winding
  • World Time Watch