ZENITH X PORTER PILOT COLLECTION IN KHAKI CERAMIC

ZENITH and iconic Japanese bag brand PORTER have come together for an unexpected yet totally coherent collaboration around the theme of travel. Together, the pair have reimagined two ZENITH PILOT models in khaki ceramic, along with a specially tailored bag made by PORTER exclusively for ZENITH: The PILOT Automatic and PILOT Big Date Flyback chronograph, each limited to 500 pieces.

The art of travel. The pursuit of pleasure in the journey rather than the destination. Since the earliest days of aviation, ZENITH has accompanied those who saw the open skies as a new world to explore with its specialized watches and instruments, going as far back as 1888 when ZENITH’s founder Georges-Favre Jacot saw the potential of aviation and decided to trademark “Pilote” in French, followed shortly by “Pilot”. The ZENITH PILOT collection is the brand’s longest running collection and has largely shaped the world of aviation watches. PORTER, a brand founded by Japanese manufacturer Yoshida & Co. in 1962, has become an established name both domestically in Japan and across the world, renowned for its minimal and functional yet meticulously crafted bags and accessories. Named after the traditional luggage porters found in hotels, PORTER excels in its use of high-quality materials and its attention to the smallest details to create highly coveted items, with a heavy influence from military designs. Coming together to celebrate their shared values and passion for travel was a natural union.

Relaunched in 2023 as a totally revamped line, the ZENITH PILOT collection draws inspiration from the entire span of aviation – past and present. The essential codes of durability, legibility and intuitiveness are respected in the modern reincarnation of the PILOT collection, which serves as the perfect canvas for this collaboration with PORTER. Combining a utilitarian approach with contemporary design elements, the result is unmistakably ZENITH. Now, across two limited editions, the distinctive PORTER touch is added to these modern classics.

The first piece in this collaborative limited-edition series is the PILOT Automatic PORTER Edition. The 40mm case with a distinct flat-top round bezel is crafted exclusively in a khaki ceramic, with an olive tone that recalls one of the signatures colours of PORTER’s bags. With its entirely matte finished surface, the case takes on a decidedly rugged look. The black PVD steel oversized crown, a defining feature of ZENITH PILOT watches, takes on an edgy angular form, while remaining easy to grip and operate – even with gloves on.

The textured, grooved dial recalls the corrugated metal sheets that made up the fuselage of many older aircrafts. Done in a khaki tone matching the case, the dial is signed both ZENITH and PORTER. Just for this special edition, the hour, minute and second hand are done in a bright orange tone that adds contrast and legibility to the dial while also recalling the orange interior of many PORTER bags, which in turn is inspired by the reverse side of aviation jackets for rescue visibility. The oversized luminescent Arabic numerals are fashioned in a sleek font and are applied as metal markers filled with white Super-LumiNova. At 6 o’clock above the date window with a white on khaki date wheel, the luminescent hour marker takes the form of a flat white line, recalling the artificial horizon instrument in plane. A source of pride for the Manufacture, the dial is signed “Pilot”, as ZENITH remains the first and only brand to hold the rights to mark its dials with the term.

 

Visible through the black PVD steel case back and specially emblazoned sapphire crystal with the PORTER logo, is the El Primero 3620 high-frequency manufacture movement. Its power reserve of 60 hours is reached by minds of a blackened oscillating weight that resembles an “artificial horizon” dashboard instrument, which informs the pilot of the aircraft’s orientation relative to the Earth’s horizon.

Completing the look, the PILOT Automatic PORTER Edition comes with two straps. The first, using a durable nylon fabric supplied by PORTER, is a khaki nylon strap with orange Velcro elements, with the signature PORTER stitched logo. The second is a khaki cordura-effect rubber strap with a black PVD steel folding buckle. The straps can be easily interchanged using the strap’s quick-release system, requiring no tools.

The second part of this sky-high collaboration is the PILOT Big Date Flyback PORTER Edition. In the same aesthetic as the three-hand version, the 42.5mm matte khaki ceramic case is set with black PVD pushers and crown. Equipped with the latest generation of the El Primero automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre, this version made exclusively for the PILOT model is endowed with two functions that are highly prized by aviators: the big date and the flyback function.

Designed with easy readability in mind, the textured khaki dial features orange hands for the timekeeping as well as the chronograph functions, with the chronograph’s 30-minute counter featuring alternating orange and white outlines to make it easier to distinguish between the 5-minute marks. The oversized date display with white numerals on khaki disks is operated by a cutting-edge patented compliant mechanism, which advances and stabilizes both of the Big Date’s wheels in less than 0.03 seconds. Originally conceived for aviators who wore thick sheepskin gloves, the flyback function allows the chronograph function to be reset to zero and restarted by a single push of a button, simplifying the pilot’s operations, and offering the possibility to record consecutive times without having to stop and restart.

The El Primero 3652 automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre with its “artificial horizon” rotor is visible through the display back with the rectangular PORTER logo on the underside of the sapphire crystal. Like its three-hand counterpart, the PILOT Big Date Flyback PORTER Edition comes with both a khaki nylon velcro strap by PORTER and a khaki cordura-effect rubber strap with a black PVD steel folding buckle, both fitted with a quick-release attachment.

Of course, this history-making collaboration wouldn’t be complete without a bag or accessory by the Japanese brand. Just for ZENITH and these two limited edition PILOT models, PORTER designed a new messenger bag into which the watch box is fitted. In the brand’s signature khaki colour on the outside, the interior was also developed exclusively for ZENITH in the Manufacture’s signature blue recalling the night sky. The bag is signed both PORTER and ZENITH.

The PILOT Automatic PORTER Edition and PILOT Big Date Flyback PORTER Edition are limited to 500 pieces each, available exclusively from ZENITH physical and online boutiques around the world.

PILOT CENTRAL AUTOMATIC PORTER

Reference: 49.4001.3620/63.I001

Key points: full interchangeable strap system, El Primero 3-hand watch, high frequency
movement (5Hz)
Movement: El Primero 3620
Frequency: 36’000 VpH – 5Hz
Power reserve: approx. 60 hours
Functions: hours and minutes in the center, central seconds hand, date indication at 6
o’clock
Finishes: special “Pilot artificial horizon” black oscillating weight
Price: 10’900 CHF / 11’800 €
Material: khaki ceramic
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Case: 40mm
Crystal: domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: transparent sapphire crystal
Dial: khaki with horizontal grooves
Hour markers: applied Arabic numerals in SuperLuminova SLN C1
Hands: black & orange with SLN C1
Bracelet & Buckle: khaki “Cordura” effect rubber strap with black PVD steel folding buckle and
khaki in durable nylon fabric by PORTER.

PILOT BIG DATE FLYBACK PORTER

Reference: 49.4001.3652/63.I001

Key points: instantaneous Big Date jump in 0.007 sec, full interchangeable strap system, automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph with flyback function, patented Big date at 6o’clock
Movement: El Primero 3652
Frequency: 36’000 VpH – 5Hz
Power reserve: approx. 60 hours
Functions: hours and minutes in the center, small seconds at 9 o’clock, instantaneous
Big Date at 6 o’clock, Flyback chronograph, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Finishes: special “Pilot artificial horizon” black oscillating weight
Price: 14’900 CHF / 16’200 €
Material: khaki ceramic
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Case: 42.5mm
Crystal: domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: transparent sapphire crystal
Dial: khaki with horizontal grooves
Hour markers: applied Arabic numerals in SuperLuminova SLN C1
Hands: black & orange with SLN C1
Bracelet & Buckle: khaki “Cordura” effect rubber strap with black PVD steel folding buckle and khaki in durable nylon fabric by PORTER.

ZENITH Takes Flight with Two Boutique Editions and Three Vintage Icons in Pilot Collection Revamp

Boutique Elegance Unveiled: A New Chapter in ZENITH’s Pilot Collection

ZENITH introduces a captivating fusion of modern elegance and historical charm with the revelation of two exclusive Boutique Editions within its revered Pilot collection. The excitement escalates as ZENITH accompanies these Boutique Editions with the debut of the groundbreaking “ICONS: PILOT” capsule collection—a set of vintage ZENITH chronographs steeped in heritage and meticulously restored.

A Complete Circle: ZENITH’s Legacy and Innovation in Harmony

ZENITH’s unparalleled aviation heritage comes full circle as the first-ever Boutique Editions of the Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback grace the stage, adorned with captivating blue dials. Simultaneously, the brand introduces the thematic “ICONS: PILOT” capsule collection, featuring three vintage Pilot watches that bear the distinguished mark of restoration and certification from the Manufacture’s Heritage Department.

Pinnacle of Aviation Heritage: The Revamped ZENITH Pilot Collection

Revamped in 2023 as a comprehensive line, the ZENITH Pilot collection draws inspiration from the entire spectrum of aviation, seamlessly blending past and present. As pioneers in the aviation watch category since 1904, ZENITH upholds the essential codes of durability, legibility, and intuitiveness in the modern reinterpretation of the Pilot collection. Departing from a mere replication of history, ZENITH embarks on a contemporary design journey, subtly nodding to the adventurous world of flying. The inaugural Boutique Edition of the line looks skyward, featuring a deep shade of blue reminiscent of the night sky.

The significance of blue in ZENITH’s palette harks back to its signature color, symbolizing the night sky and the radiant star that inspired Georges-Favre Jacot to name the manufacture after it. The Pilot collection, however, assigns a new meaning to this hue, evoking the bravery and adventurous spirit of early pilots who dared to soar beyond the horizon.

The epitome of ZENITH’s Pilot watch, the Pilot Automatic Boutique Edition, emerges in a 40mm stainless steel case. Notable features include a distinct flat-top round bezel fixed atop the rounded case, a textured, grooved dial reminiscent of aircraft fuselages, and oversized luminescent Arabic numerals. The luminescent hour marker at 6 o’clock, above the date window with a white-on-blue date wheel, pays homage to the artificial horizon instrument in planes. This boutique-exclusive edition is signed “Pilot,” underscoring ZENITH’s exclusive rights to mark its dials with the term.

Innovative Movements: Powering the Pilot Automatic and Big Date Flyback

Powered by the El Primero 3620 high-frequency manufacture movement, the Pilot Automatic boasts a 60-hour power reserve. The blackened oscillating weight mirrors an “artificial horizon” dashboard instrument. The watch is accompanied by interchangeable blue cordura-effect rubber and brown calfskin straps, accessible through the strap’s quick-release system.

The larger and more feature-packed Pilot Big Date Flyback Boutique Edition, housed in a 42.5mm stainless steel case, showcases the latest El Primero automatic high-frequency chronograph calibre. A nod to aviators, it incorporates coveted functions—a big date and a flyback mechanism. The oversized date display features a patented compliant mechanism for swift advancement, with wheels coloured in the same blue tone as the dial. The flyback function, designed for aviators wearing thick gloves, enables seamless resetting of the chronograph with a single button push.

The El Primero 3652 chronograph calibre with its distinctive “artificial horizon” rotor is visible through the display back. The Pilot Big Date Flyback comes with interchangeable blue cordura-effect rubber and brown calfskin straps, both featuring an integrated quick-release mechanism.

Exclusive to ZENITH physical and online boutiques globally, the Pilot Automatic Boutique Edition and Pilot Big Date Flyback Boutique Edition epitomize the brand’s commitment to innovation and tradition.

Icons of the Sky: ZENITH’s First-Ever ICONS: PILOT Collection

To provide a comprehensive perspective on these latest Pilot creations and to bring ZENITH’s extensive tradition of aviator watches full circle, the brand introduces the groundbreaking “ICONS: PILOT” collection. This collection delves into the vintage realm, presenting highly collectible ZENITH Pilot chronographs from the latter half of the 20th century.

Named ZENITH ICONS: PILOT – ACT I, this capsule collection aligns with the brand’s HORIZ-ON CSR initiative, contributing to a sustainable future by building a circular economy for its emblematic historical references. The ICONS programme ensures the perpetual existence of these historical pieces by curating, restoring, and certifying them through the Manufacture’s Heritage Department. With a focus on authenticity, watch collectors gain unmatched peace of mind, knowing they acquire 100% original examples.

While previous ZENITH ICONS collections centred on earlier El Primero models shaping the contemporary Chronomaster line, the spotlight now shifts to the enduring Pilot collection. The inaugural set comprises three references from the late 1960s and 1970s, exploring both the professional and consumer sides of ZENITH Pilot watches from that era. From utilitarian designs to imaginative and forward-thinking concepts, these three Pilot chronograph references serve as a captivating testament to the brand’s enduring legacy.

TIPO CP-2 CAIRELLI: A Military Marvel of the Late ’60s and ’70s

The first reference, TIPO CP-2 CAIRELLI, produced for the Italian Army Corps between 1968 and 1972, stands out for its military specifications, including enhanced legibility, a rotating bezel, and luminescent Arabic hour numerals and hands. The set includes an example engraved with an A.M.I military serial number, powered by Zenith’s 146 DP manual-winding chronograph calibre.

A3821: Space-Age Design and Diver’s Watch Fusion

The A3821, launched in 1972, exudes a space-age design with a dark, deep sunken dial, luminescent markers and hands, and a tachymeter on the flange ring. Part of the first ZENITH Pilot models equipped with an El Primero calibre, this hybrid watch combines the legibility and luminescence of a pilot’s watch with the water-resistance of a diver’s watch. The set features an example from the very first production lot in 1972.

01.0230.415: The Pioneering Display Back Chronograph

The third reference, ref. 01.0230.415 distinguishes itself as the first ZENITH El Primero chronograph with a display back in mineral glass. Alongside its fellow Pilot-Diver models, it showcases a space-age design with a movement mounted on a suspension system and an integrated “lobster” bracelet made by Gay Frères. The set’s exceedingly rare example features a matte black dial, produced in only 50 units in 1975, and stands out for its see-through caseback and modernized bezel indication displaying minutes instead of hours.

Preserving Legacy: ZENITH’s Commitment to Sustainability

Each vintage piece in the ICONS collection has been meticulously examined and certified, contributing to ZENITH’s legacy of excellence.

As ZENITH continues to soar, these Boutique Editions and ICONS encapsulate the brand’s dedication to timeless design and the spirit of aviation.

Wonderful Novelties at Watches and Wonders – Day 1

The excitement was palpable and there was a buzz in the city of Geneva which woke up to the first day of Watches and Wonders. This was the day everyone was looking forward to since 2020. The wonderful novelties that were unveiled at Watches and Wonders on day 1 were long awaited. The watch was on.

All the brands were eager to welcome trade partners and watch enthusiasts and the visitors were equally elated to see the wonderful novelties displayed in all their splendor. The fruit of the hard labor was ripe, and all the innovations were ready to see the lights.

The convention was kickstarted with a beautiful opening ceremony and several brands had keynote addresses. But the moment the novelties were unveiled the magic began.

The first day saw a mix of brands and here’s a rundown on day one at the most happening event.

Armin Strom: Orbit

What is unique about this spectacularly beautiful piece?

It is the world’s first watch with an on-demand date indicated on the bezel. The pusher at 10 when pushed shows the date on the bezel for a few seconds. The date hand when in the stationary mode, remains in its fixed position pointing at 12 o’clock.

Their signature bridges, hold the micro-rotor at the one o’clock position, and the equal force barrel at the 6 o’clock position. The watch comes with transparency that is unique in the watch industry highlighting the inner workings of mechanical watchmaking on the dial-side. It comes with an integrated bracelet and a contrasting ceramic bezel. A sport-chic watch that is flaunt-worthy.

Discover the timepiece here: https://arminstrom.com/en/collection/system-78/orbit-first-edition/?v=ee2d312f5477

Chopard: Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillion

The Alpine Eagle flying tourbillion is a watch made in Lucent Steel making it 50% harder and more luminous. The well-highlighted flying tourbillon placed at 6 o’clock has no upper bridge and you can see right through to the movement.

The brushed dial starts at the tourbillion moving outwards. With an integrated bracelet, the watch is simple and yet a delightful piece.

Discover the timepiece here: https://www.chopard.com/intl/alpine-eagle-flying-tourbillon-298616-3001

Cartier: Tank Chinoise

A comeback after a century, in an art-deco design, rectangular and true to its vertical brancards design the Tank Chionese is as simple and elegant as they come. With two additional brancards across the top and bottom of the square case, it evokes the portico design.

In a beautifully polished gold case, its iconic design and shape with “chemin de fer” and the hidden Cartier signature it is a watch that puts geometry in fashion.

As part of the Cartier Privé collection, there are six models in this collection. Three models, in yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum. Made to a limited 150 pieces per model. There are also additional 3 models with see-through dials and skeletonized movements. The traditional Chinese window designs are eye-catching and made in a limited quantity of 100 pieces each.

IWC Schaffhausen; Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Edition Woodland

IWC has new models in its Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Edition. We are going to talk about Woodland here.  Featuring in sombre green ceramic with Ceratanium® at the case back and the pushers this watch looks as cool as the forests the pilots fly over. It is a double pusher chronograph, with the 30-minute and hour counter on the dial.

The indices look green but look nicely lit. Following the monochromatic design, the rubber strap continues to run in green with a fabric inlay. Each of the two models will be made in a quantity of 1,000 pieces.

Discover the timepiece here: https://www.iwc.com/en/watch-collections/pilot-watches/iw389106-pilot_s-watch-chronograph-top-gun-edition-woodland.html

Laurent Ferrier

A grade 5 Titanium, case making this an extremely light watch. The dial is in a blue gradient starting with a lighter centre and growing outwards to a darker blue. The assegai watch hands go so well with white gold indices adding to the elegance of the watch.

At the back is a see-through manual winding movement hand-finished and refined.

Discover the timepiece here: https://laurentferrier.ch/products/classic-origin-blue?variant=41961889759394

Tag Heuer: Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph

Tag Heuer forays into its first solar-powered watch with a TH50-00 caliber.

The dial is transparent and allows the sunlight to enter the movement to power it up. Just two minutes in full sunlight can power it up for a day. It also lightens up the Super-Luminova that features on the carbon bezel as well as indices. If the timepiece stops working exposure of 10 seconds to sunlight can restart the watch.

A sporty watch that professional divers can take down to the depth of 200 meters. Comes with a power-saving mode.

Discover the timepiece here: https://www.tagheuer.com/in/en/event/tag-heuer-aquaracer-professional-200-solargraph.html