The Twin Orbital Tourbillon from Etheral Collection: Cyrus Geneve

Cyrus Geneve introduces the new “Etheral” Collection with an exceptional creation: The “Twin Orbital Tourbillon”, which combines the manufacture’s best skills and know-how in a daring and innovative kinematics.

The year 2024 marks a new milestone in the history of CYRUS Genève, independent Swiss brand founded in 2010, with its manufacture in Le Locle, under the direction of the talented master watchmaker Jean-François Mojon. On the occasion of the Watches and Wonders event in Geneva, CYRUS Genève is pleased topresent the brand new “ETHERAL” collection, featuring interesting watchmaking complications and a round case, an absolute first for the Maison.

 

After more than six years of work, the project launched in 2018 has become a reality. The Maison is proud to unveil the “Twin Orbital Tourbillon”, the first member of the ETHERAL family which successfully combines an ultramodern style with avant-garde mechanics. Both have been conceived at the same time to achieve the ultimate horological level and a well-balanced, appealing design.

The ETHERAL line embodies the pinnacle of horological artistry, representing a harmonious blend of watchmaking tradition and innovation crafted with emphasis on futuristic aesthetics, captivating the essence of its name through light, almost floating appearance. It draws inspiration from natural and cosmic beauty, reflecting patterns, rhythms and elements found in nature and universe, suggesting a connection to the wider world and a broader perspective.

This latest collection is a testament to the ongoing quest for excellence through precision engineering, refined elegance and functional sophistication, with the utmost respect for the art of Swiss watchmaking.

With its extraordinary 3D moving dial, the “ETHERAL Twin Orbital Tourbillon” is a hymn to kinematics. As the hours pass, the jumping hours, the minute indication and the two flying tourbillons change position, keeping time perfectly readable always horizontally.

All this is made possible by the new hand-wound manufacture calibre CYR518-E with a double barrel guaranteeing a 72-hour power reserve, comprising no fewer than 510 components, including 63 jewels. This innovative and finely decorated movement also boasts three patent applications.

This creation will appeal the most discerning collectors who appreciate the fine interplay between art and science and are in search of an exclusive dream-watch. Its uniqueness is also underlined by the 18-piece limited edition.

The “ETHERAL Twin Orbital Tourbillon” is a true work of art, a masterpiece of horological craftsmanship that will write another important chapter in the brand’s history.

 

Kinematics: the undisputed protagonist of this unprecedented stylistic approach
CYRUS Genève welcomes its first-born with a round case framing a striking 3D design architecture that highlights the complexity of its exceptional hand-wound manufacture calibre CYR518-E, the subject of three patents pending.

Its style is reminiscent of some iconic elements of the brand’s timepieces such as the elongated lugs surrounding the functional twin crowns. The crown at 3 o’clock, with its slanted grooves, winds the watch and sets the time, while a pressure on the crown at 9 o’clock allows quick time setting (hours indication jumps one hour ahead). The case is crafted in polished-brushed 4N rose
gold combined with grade 5 titanium inserts.

44 mm in diameter (excluding crowns and inserts) and 16.3 mm in thickness, it is complemented by a slender bezel that allows a wider dial opening, enhancing the harmonious arrangement of the mechanical elements that define the timepiece’s functions.

 

The leading actors of the display are the jumping hour indication by means of two discs in the form of a truncated cone with an inclination angle of 18°, surmounted by a highly original triangular minute hand with curved arms and a luminescent tip, microbeaded with bevelled polished angles, and the two flying tourbillon which seem to be suspended in mid-air. Positioned on a frame, all these components perform a spectacular dance. The widest aperture of the display allows a perfect view of the jumping hour and the two flying tourbillon cages. The dial’s rotation has no effect on the reading of the time,
which is always horizontal, whatever the position of its components.

 

The watch face plays on the contrasting shades of black, anthracite and rose gold, with an array of exquisite finishes that enhance every detail. From the black PVD finish on the frame bridge, to the tetrahedral motifs, to the tourbillon cages’ gilded bridges reminiscent of the Cyrus logo with microbeaded and chamfered angles and perfectly match the style of the minute hand, to the bevelled-cut steel screw heads, some with a mirror- polished surface, others with an additional black PVD coating, nothing is left to chance. And the whole composition appears perfectly harmonious and well balanced to the eye!

With three patents pending, this new calibre demonstrates how watchmaking continues to surprise by pushing the boundaries of what is known.
Subject to three patent applications, this extraordinary new hand-wound movement, calibre CYR518-E, equipping the “ETHERAL Twin Orbital Tourbillon”, is the result of the undisputed talent of Jean-François Mojon and his team.

Comprising no fewer than 510 components, this powerful engine with a regulating organ operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz), guarantees a 72-hour power reserve thanks to its two barrels.

This new-generation calibre provides the jumping hours on two discs that move around the dial while maintaining horizontal readability, as well as the two flying tourbillons, inclined at an angle of 20°, both of which rotate clockwise and linked together in a manner known by the state of the art.

One of the three patents that has been filed for this unprecedented movement concerns the balancing mechanism of the frame, requiring the development of a new and innovative solution to ensure perfect operation in the event of shocks.

Positioning the centre of gravity on the pivoting axis is the first step in reducing the impact of shocks on the frame. This nullifies the effects of linear shocks. However, angular accelerations always affect the frame and therefore the working components. The frame drives a rotating mass in opposite directions.

When an impact or angular accelerations occurs, the dynamic effects are cancelled out because the inertias of the frame and the rotating mass are equal, and the direction of rotation is reversed.

The mechanism for displaying the time by combining the tens and units discs is the subject of the other two patent applications.

One refers to the hour indicator. The hours appear on two discs driven by a single triangular-toothed star wheel through a 12-jump kinematic system. In addition to its simplicity, this mechanism also has the advantage of preventing any de-indexing.

A second patent pending is for the instant drive mechanism with surprise for unrestricted counter-clockwise time adjustment. The purpose of this device is to make the hour jump without double jumping and without desynchronisation when the time is set anti-clockwise.

The complex geometry of the upper tourbillon cage, which can only be produced using the most high-performance machining workshops, bears the brand’s three-armed helix logo. It is adjusted by means of inertia blocks on the free-sprung balance wheel.

Much attention has been paid to the aesthetics of the rear of the watch which echoes the sophisticated layout of the dial emphasized by refined finishes such as frosted and microbeaded surfaces, bevelled and polished edges, polished mirror screws and much more.

As with other brand movements, such as the Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon, particular attention was focused to symmetry along the 12:00-9:00 axis.

It is impossible not to notice that the inclined power-reserve disc, whose apertures change from white to black and then to red when the power reserve runs out, follows the shape of the unusual minute hand. Or the frosted, black PVD-coated barrel ratchet wheels engraved with the Cyrus logo.

The anti-reflective sapphire crystal case back, sealed with 8 titanium customised screws, enables to admire the many details and the array of decorations which confirm, once again, the highest level of mastery of Cyrus Genève.

Strap
The “ETHERAL Twin Orbital Tourbillon” comes with an elegant black crocodile leather strap, hand-stitched and fastened to the wrist with a 4N rose gold pin buckle with grade 5 titanium inserts. Its design is new and matches the style of the case to perfection.

TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Movement
• In-house manufactured hand-wound movement, calibre CYR518-E
• Dimensions: 38.6 mm Ø 12.95 mm thickness
• Number of parts of the complete movement: 510
• Two parallel flying tourbillons inclined at an angle of 20°, clockwise rotation of the two
cages on frame, complete rotation in one minute
• Tourbillon cages weight: 0.42 gr each
• Number of jewels: 63
• Frequency: 3 Hz
• Vibrations per hour: 21,600
• Power reserve: 72 hours, via a triangular 4N gold plated hand with white tip, rotating discs
which change colour from white to black and red when the power reserve is exhausted,
on a microbeaded black PVD coated disc.
• Two parallel barrels with frosted, black PVD-coated ratchet wheels engraved with the logo.
• Swiss lever escapement
• Free-sprung balance wheel with variable inertia
• Bridges: circled surface with black PVD coating, bevelled and polished edges, frosted
pockets in anthracite hue
• Steel screws with mirror-polished heads

Functions
• Jumping hours on two paralled discs inclined at an angle of 18°, one disc for the tens and
one for the units. Legibility always in horizontal position
• Minute indication via a triangular hand
• Power reserve display on the case back

Case
• NEW round case
• Material: 4N rose gold with grade 5 titanium inserts on lugs
• Diameter: 44 mm excluding the crowns and inserts
• Thickness: 16,3 mm
• Crown at 3 o’clock: in position 1, winds the movement; in position, 2 adjusts the time
• Crown at 9 o’clock: rapid hour increment by pressing the pusher
• Crown decoration: engraved oblique grooves, personalised with the Cyrus logo
• Sapphire crystal on dial: anti-reflective treatment on both sides
• Case back: porthole with anti-reflective sapphire crystal, fastened with 8 titanium screws
customised with the Cyrus logo
• Water resistant to 5 ATM (50 m. – 164 ft.)

Dial
• Rotating frame on which the hour/minute display indicators and two flying tourbillons are
mounted
• Openworked frame’s bridge with black PVD coating and tetrahedral motifs inserts in
anthracite shade
• Hour indication via two inclined rotating discs, one for tens and one for units, microbeaded
with black PVD finish, Arabic luminscents numerals emitting blue glow
• Rotating triangular minute hand with curved arms, microbeaded with 4N gold-plated
finish, bevelled angles, one tip with white Super-LumiNova with blue light emission
• Minute flange with cerlage, black PVD treatment, 4N gold-plated indices with Arabic
numeral at 5-minute intervals
• Two inclined flying tourbillon cages with helix-shaped bridges, microbeaded with 4N
gold-plated finish, bevelled angles, 4N gold-plated balance wheel. Both flying tourbillons
rotate clockwise
• Laser engraved microbeded and 4N gold-plated logo on a black PVD plate
• Mirror-polished nuts
• Steel screws with bevelled cut, mirror polished, with black PVD coating

Strap
• Black alligator leather strap, hand-stitched
• NEW design for the pin buckle in 4N rose gold with grade 5 titanium inserts, customised
with the Cyrus logo

Limited Edition of 18 pieces

Wonderful Novelties at Watches and Wonders – Day 1

The excitement was palpable and there was a buzz in the city of Geneva which woke up to the first day of Watches and Wonders. This was the day everyone was looking forward to since 2020. The wonderful novelties that were unveiled at Watches and Wonders on day 1 were long awaited. The watch was on.

All the brands were eager to welcome trade partners and watch enthusiasts and the visitors were equally elated to see the wonderful novelties displayed in all their splendor. The fruit of the hard labor was ripe, and all the innovations were ready to see the lights.

The convention was kickstarted with a beautiful opening ceremony and several brands had keynote addresses. But the moment the novelties were unveiled the magic began.

The first day saw a mix of brands and here’s a rundown on day one at the most happening event.

Armin Strom: Orbit

What is unique about this spectacularly beautiful piece?

It is the world’s first watch with an on-demand date indicated on the bezel. The pusher at 10 when pushed shows the date on the bezel for a few seconds. The date hand when in the stationary mode, remains in its fixed position pointing at 12 o’clock.

Their signature bridges, hold the micro-rotor at the one o’clock position, and the equal force barrel at the 6 o’clock position. The watch comes with transparency that is unique in the watch industry highlighting the inner workings of mechanical watchmaking on the dial-side. It comes with an integrated bracelet and a contrasting ceramic bezel. A sport-chic watch that is flaunt-worthy.

Discover the timepiece here: https://arminstrom.com/en/collection/system-78/orbit-first-edition/?v=ee2d312f5477

Chopard: Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillion

The Alpine Eagle flying tourbillion is a watch made in Lucent Steel making it 50% harder and more luminous. The well-highlighted flying tourbillon placed at 6 o’clock has no upper bridge and you can see right through to the movement.

The brushed dial starts at the tourbillion moving outwards. With an integrated bracelet, the watch is simple and yet a delightful piece.

Discover the timepiece here: https://www.chopard.com/intl/alpine-eagle-flying-tourbillon-298616-3001

Cartier: Tank Chinoise

A comeback after a century, in an art-deco design, rectangular and true to its vertical brancards design the Tank Chionese is as simple and elegant as they come. With two additional brancards across the top and bottom of the square case, it evokes the portico design.

In a beautifully polished gold case, its iconic design and shape with “chemin de fer” and the hidden Cartier signature it is a watch that puts geometry in fashion.

As part of the Cartier Privé collection, there are six models in this collection. Three models, in yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum. Made to a limited 150 pieces per model. There are also additional 3 models with see-through dials and skeletonized movements. The traditional Chinese window designs are eye-catching and made in a limited quantity of 100 pieces each.

IWC Schaffhausen; Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Edition Woodland

IWC has new models in its Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Edition. We are going to talk about Woodland here.  Featuring in sombre green ceramic with Ceratanium® at the case back and the pushers this watch looks as cool as the forests the pilots fly over. It is a double pusher chronograph, with the 30-minute and hour counter on the dial.

The indices look green but look nicely lit. Following the monochromatic design, the rubber strap continues to run in green with a fabric inlay. Each of the two models will be made in a quantity of 1,000 pieces.

Discover the timepiece here: https://www.iwc.com/en/watch-collections/pilot-watches/iw389106-pilot_s-watch-chronograph-top-gun-edition-woodland.html

Laurent Ferrier

A grade 5 Titanium, case making this an extremely light watch. The dial is in a blue gradient starting with a lighter centre and growing outwards to a darker blue. The assegai watch hands go so well with white gold indices adding to the elegance of the watch.

At the back is a see-through manual winding movement hand-finished and refined.

Discover the timepiece here: https://laurentferrier.ch/products/classic-origin-blue?variant=41961889759394

Tag Heuer: Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph

Tag Heuer forays into its first solar-powered watch with a TH50-00 caliber.

The dial is transparent and allows the sunlight to enter the movement to power it up. Just two minutes in full sunlight can power it up for a day. It also lightens up the Super-Luminova that features on the carbon bezel as well as indices. If the timepiece stops working exposure of 10 seconds to sunlight can restart the watch.

A sporty watch that professional divers can take down to the depth of 200 meters. Comes with a power-saving mode.

Discover the timepiece here: https://www.tagheuer.com/in/en/event/tag-heuer-aquaracer-professional-200-solargraph.html

Test-tube Time – Rebellion

Rebellion has done it yet again.

If glass tubes excite you here is what is going to blow your mind. The Weap-One biaxial Tourbillon is an ingenious creation that embeds the flying tourbillon in a neat package that turns out to be a wristwatch in a slender 25 mm diameter and 53 mm long sapphire and titanium case.

The tourbillion gyrates as if suspended on two axis while its flying tourbillion function negates the effects of gravity and manages to look splendid at the same time.

Once the mechanism is wound you have 50 hours of power reserve. Without distorting the cylindrical shape two flat titanium crowns are perfectly integrated, the left-hand one is dedicated to setting the time and the right-hand one to winding the calibre.

Two rollers at the two ends display the hours and minutes with the numerals coloured by Super-Luminova®.

The back of the watch is flat for that comfortable fit on the wrist. But overall, this looks like a vial of time on your hands.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Case materials: Black DLC titanium

Glass tube: Scratch resistant sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment

Case dimensions: 26mm x 52.85mm

Colors: Green, white

Water resistance: 10m / 1 ATM

Movement: Manual movement developed by Concepto; Biaxial flying tourbillon

Functions: Hours and minutes

Jewels: 39

Balance frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)

Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap and buckle: Black textile, velcro closure with black DLC titanium buckle