Ressence unveils its art watch TYPE 9 Jules Wittock

Maze with a Message

For this year’s art watch, Ressence teamed up with Belgian artist Jules Wittock to introduce a handdrawn maze onto the dial of the brand’s TYPE 9. The T9 JWE and T9 JWB – limited to 60 pieces, 30 each – is a visual experience, made to awaken the senses and wonder your way through.

Wittock is known for tracing mazes freehand. In the case of the T9 JWE (Emerald Green colourway) and T9 JWB (black), a miniaturised design offers the wearer a single entrance, a single exit, and a path between them that spells a word.

“I like hiding things in my paintings,” says Wittock. “There’s always a mystery within the maze.”

Only at midnight does the maze align to reveal its hidden message — a nod to Wittock’s childhood ritual of making a wish at times like 11:11 or 22:22. What that message is remains between the artist and those who own the piece.

The T9 JWE features a white-filled maze on an Emerald Green ALD-coated titanium dial that changes to a purple colour depending on the angle of the watch; the T9 JWB features a white-filled maze on a black titanium dial in a black coated case. The patterns are milled directly into Grade 5 titanium and traced at 0.2 millimetres wide — made visible by the painted fill catching against the metal. Both editions debut on leather straps.

“The criteria we use to choose the artists we collaborate with run deeper than creativity or graphic impact alone,” says Benoît Mintiens, Ressence’s founder and creative mind. “We look for a visual language that translates physically onto the watch. Jules’s labyrinths are engraved into the dial and filled by hand, so the drawing lives in depth. His line stays extraordinarily consistent across every path — remarkable mastery, given that he draws each one freehand.”

The result, in watch form, draws on Ressence’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS) technology, which allows the dials, now carrying Wittock’s hand traced paths, to orbit in continuous motion. It’s a playful interpretation of a watch built to be handled, enjoyed, and lived with.

“A Ressence adds a fourth dimension to the canvas: time,” Mintiens adds, noting that it’s only at midnight and midday that the watch dials align for wearers to solve the labyrinth. “The artwork keeps changing. It appears differently with every glance.”

Being in the Now

Wittock has drawn labyrinths since childhood to find a path through complexity. “When I create my work, it’s a moment when I am in the present,” Wittock explains. “I don’t think about what I am doing, what I need to do, or what I did. I’m just doing right now, and I love being part of right now.”

It is a philosophy of clarity drawn from complexity — and it is where his world meets Ressence’s. Both strip away the noise to reach the essential. Both make objects meant to be lived with that reward attention over time. “I love how they think,” Wittock says of Ressence. “They are starting over with watchmaking, rethinking the whole concept. The way they work is minimalist, optimal, efficient — and I have exactly that in my paintings: the maximum space given to the logic, never to empty space.”

For Mintiens, that shared instinct is the point. “We move through life guided by instinct, and the coherence reveals itself in hindsight,” he says. “The labyrinth stays intricate. Then a moment comes when the pattern resolves and the word can finally be read.”

Art Watch Series

Each guest edition watch begins with a shared way of seeing between Ressence and its collaborators. Ressence partners only with artists whose work already speaks its language — clarity, curiosity, and the conviction that an object is made to be experienced as much as owned.

Previous guest editions include Shantell Martin’s TYPE 1 Square White, featuring her fluid line drawings and “Enjoy Life” mantra for TimeForArt 2024. Stefan Sagmeister’s TYPE 3X Look Up (2020) embedded his “Now is Better” philosophy into the dial, while Alain Silberstein’s TYPE 1 S REV Grail Watch (2022) offered a symbolic exploration of “Carpe Diem.” More recently, Daniel Engelberg’s TYPE 8 DE1 and DE2 (2025) brought the artist’s “Inside Out” concentric circles into kinetic form, and

Terumasa Ikeda’s TYPE 9 IKE (2026) brought his urushi lacquer and mother-of-pearl craft to the rotating dial.

The brand’s “art in motion” philosophy underscores Ressence’s belief that a watch should engage the wearer emotionally as much as technically.

“My work is based on challenge,” says Wittock. “The more complex the process, the more satisfying it is at the end.”

Ressence TYPE 9

Built on the TYPE 9 design — Ressence’s smallest and lightest watch to date — the new editions exemplify the brand’s ‘Less is More’ philosophy, focusing on simplicity in both form and function. By distilling watchmaking to its essence, the TYPE 9 offers a pure time-reading experience with hours and minutes displayed through the patented Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS).

The T9 JWE and T9 JWB will be available from 17.09.2026 through Ressence’s online store and select global retailers. As the latest release in Ressence’s art series, they continue Ressence’s ongoing dialogue with contemporary art, affirming a vision of watchmaking as a meaningful form of creative expression.

Technical Specifications
Name TYPE 9 JWB – TYPE 9 Jules Wittock Black

Functions
• Hours
• Minutes
Movement
• Patented ROCS 9 — Ressence Orbital Convex System — module driven by the minute axle of a customised automatic base calibre
• Self-winding
• 36 hours power reserve
• 28,800 vibrations per hour
• 31 jewels
• 20 gears
• 4 ball bearings
Dial
• Grade 5 titanium dial (75mm diameter) running on a jewel ball bearing with eccentric satellites rolling on jewel ball-bearings inclined at 9.75° (hours)
• Engraved indications hand-filled with white lacquer and Grade A Super-LumiNova® on a Black PVD-coated titanium dial
Case
• Polished Grade 5 titanium
• Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating inside
• 39 mm (diameter) x 11 mm (thickness)
• 1 ATM splash-resistance
• Manual winding over 12° and set-up via caseback
• Rotating two directions
Buckle & Strap
• Titanium ardillon buckle
• Leather strap (20/18 mm)
Components
• 182 components
Weight
• 42 grams (strap included)

Name TYPE 9 JWE – TYPE 9 Jules Wittock Emerald Green

Functions
• Hours
• Minutes
Movement
• Patented ROCS 9 — Ressence Orbital Convex System — module driven by the minute axle of a customised automatic base calibre
• Self-winding
• 36 hours power reserve
• 28,800 vibrations per hour
• 31 jewels
• 20 gears
• 4 ball bearings
Dial
• Grade 5 titanium dial (75mm diameter) running on a jewel ball bearing with eccentric satellites rolling on jewel ball-bearings inclined at 9.75° (hours)
• Engraved indications hand-filled with white lacquer and Grade A Super-LumiNova® on an Emerald Green ALD-coated titanium dial
Case
• Polished Grade 5 titanium
• Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating inside
• 39 mm (diameter) x 11 mm (thickness)
• 1 ATM splash-resistance
• Manual winding over 12° and set-up via caseback
• Rotating two directions
Buckle & Strap
• Titanium ardillon buckle
• Soft calf leather strap (20/18 mm)
Components
• 182 components
Weight
• 42 grams (strap included)

About Jules Wittock

Jules Wittock is based in Brussels and raised in a family of artists. He is known for hand-drawn labyrinths painted onto large-scale linen canvases. He has drawn labyrinths since childhood to find a path through complexity — each one traced freehand. Each maze follows the same internal logic: a single entrance, a single exit, and a path between them that spells a word. Some pieces carry secondary layers — UV-revealed patterns, mechanical mechanisms, and other concealed elements — that invite the viewer to interact with the work.

Wittock works across media and techniques — from marker and paint on linen to bronze and aluminium sculpture, as well as kinetic pieces. His labyrinths run up to 10 metres in length, yet the work stays minimalistic in purpose: typically a single colour, driven by the logic of the maze.

His work has been exhibited across Europe and includes large-scale public commissions, among them a ceiling mural at the Brussels Palace of Justice. He is currently expanding into sculptural work in bronze and aluminium.

About Ressence

Founded by Benoît Mintiens in 2010, Antwerp-based Ressence is setting a new paradigm for watchmaking — rethinking what a mechanical watch would be if it were a 21st-century invention.

Known for its patented Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS), which replaces hands with rotating discs, Ressence crafts watches that are intuitive, legible, and deeply human. Awardwinning innovations like oil-filled dials and the absence of a crown serve a clear purpose: ergonomics, clarity, and experience.

Ressence applies design thinking to fine watchmaking, providing mechanical watches with functional meaning for those who value clarity without losing soul and functionality without compromising beauty. Ressence calls this Simplication — a dedication to innovation, minimalism, and human connection in watchmaking.

In an industry dominated by tradition and status, Ressence stands apart as a design-led independent. Its made-in-Switzerland watches are built for modern life, not the museum. Its audience is curious and optimistic, seeking watches that spark conversation without pretension.

Wearing a Ressence is a statement of optimism. A belief that the future holds more promise than the past.

Speake Marin Tourbillon Royal Blue: Five-Piece Limited Edition

Speake Marin presents the Tourbillon Royal Blue, a new interpretation of its emblematic Openworked collection, combining the Maison’s Piccadilly case with an intensely coloured Royal Blue mechanical architecture.

The timepiece brings together a 42 mm 5N red-gold case, an openworked construction and the automatic manufacture SMA05 calibre. Limited to just five pieces, the Tourbillon Royal Blue offers a highly exclusive expression of Speake Marin’s approach to Anglo-Swiss watchmaking.

Mechanics Takes Centre Stage

The Openworked collection places the movement at the heart of the watch’s aesthetic. Bridges, openings and indications unfold across several levels, creating a fully exposed mechanical construction.

The Tourbillon Royal Blue continues this approach through the iconic Piccadilly case. Redesigned in 2017 by Eric Giroud, the case reinterprets Speake Marin’s historic design codes through more fluid and sculptural lines.

Royal Blue as the Defining Thread

Royal Blue runs throughout the Tourbillon Royal Blue, covering the openworked dial, flange and selected movement components.

The intense shade, inspired by Pantone 287 C, contrasts with the warmth of the 5N red gold and the anthracite-grey rhodium plating. Subtle 4N details add another layer of contrast, while a red accent on the power-reserve display provides a graphic highlight.

The Piccadilly Case in 5N Red Gold

The Tourbillon Royal Blue is housed in Speake Marin’s 42 mm Piccadilly case, crafted in 5N red gold.

Its sculptural lines frame the openworked movement, revealing the flying tourbillon, power-reserve indication and finishing of the SMA05 calibre.

A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment protects the dial, while a sapphire crystal caseback reveals the movement from the reverse.

The flared and fluted crown is crafted in 5N red gold and set with a blue sapphire. The caseback carries the Speake Marin and One & Two signatures together with the inscription “Limited Edition of 5.”

The watch is fitted with a Royal Blue ostrich leather strap, hand-stitched with gold-coloured thread, with a light-brown calfskin lining and 5N red-gold pin buckle.

A Dial Conceived as Architecture in Motion

The fully openworked dial exposes the mechanics beneath and is structured around two principal focal points: the flying tourbillon at 1:30 and the power-reserve indication at 7:30.

The upper plate receives a Royal Blue PVD treatment and is intentionally left unlacquered to preserve the depth and intensity of the colour. Straight-grained lines extend from the tourbillon towards the power-reserve display.

Microblasted recesses contrast with satin-brushed surfaces, while diamond-cut edges and opaline-finished bevels catch the light. Glossy light-grey details in Pantone 420 C contribute to legibility, while a ruby within the power-reserve display introduces a subtle red accent.

The surrounding circular-grained brass flange is also finished in Royal Blue PVD. Twelve Pantone 420 C light-grey Super-LumiNova hour markers emit blue luminescence, while the 4N PVD-treated hour and minute hands feature light-grey lacquer and blue luminescence.

The SMA05 Calibre

At the heart of the Tourbillon Royal Blue is the automatic manufacture SMA05 calibre, equipped with a fully integrated micro-rotor and a flying tourbillon completing one rotation every 60 seconds.

The movement provides a 72-hour power reserve and operates at 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour. It comprises 290 components, including 63 components for the tourbillon cage.

The bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève and finished in anthracite-grey rhodium plating, while the central bridge features a circular-grained 4N gold-tone PVD coating.

The tungsten oscillating weight and barrel drum are rhodium-plated. The tourbillon is topped by Speake Marin’s signature Topping Tool bridge, polished and finished in 4N.

The barrel carries laser-engraved One & Two, Openworked and Flying Tourbillon inscriptions, accompanied by striped decoration that continues onto the oscillating weight.

Speake Marin Tourbillon Royal Blue: Technical Specifications

Reference: 424211010

Movement

  • Automatic manufacture SMA05 calibre
  • Fully integrated tungsten micro-rotor
  • 60-second flying tourbillon at 1:30
  • Power-reserve indication at 7:30
  • 290 components, including 63 for the tourbillon cage
  • Frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600 vibrations per hour
  • Power reserve: minimum 72 hours
  • 33 jewels
  • Diameter: 34 mm
  • Thickness: 7.15 mm, excluding hands
  • Microblasted mainplate with Royal Blue PVD treatment
  • Central bridge with 4N PVD treatment
  • Signature Topping Tool tourbillon bridge
  • Laser-engraved barrel
  • Striped decoration continued onto the oscillating weight

Functions

  • Hours
  • Minutes
  • Seconds displayed on the tourbillon cage
  • Power-reserve indication

Case

  • Iconic Piccadilly case
  • 5N red gold
  • Diameter: 42 mm
  • Thickness: 12.35 mm
  • Flared and fluted 5N red-gold crown set with a blue sapphire
  • Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
  • Sapphire crystal caseback
  • “Limited Edition of 5” engraving
  • Water resistance: 3 ATM

Dial

  • Three-dimensional openworked dial finished in Royal Blue PVD
  • Straight-grained surfaces
  • Microblasted recesses
  • Diamond-cut edges
  • Circular-grained Royal Blue PVD flange
  • Twelve Pantone 420 C light-grey Super-LumiNova hour markers
  • 4N PVD-treated hands
  • Pantone 420 C light-grey lacquer
  • Blue luminescence
  • Glossy red Pantone 199 C detail on the power-reserve indication

Strap

  • Royal Blue ostrich leather
  • Hand-stitched with gold-coloured thread
  • Light-brown calfskin lining
  • 5N red-gold pin buckle

Edition & Price

Limited edition of 5 pieces

AWAKE Frosted Leaf 2026: Blood Moon, Storm & Lagoon

AWAKE’s Frosted Leaf collection returns in 2026 with three new watches inspired by exceptional moments in nature. Blood Moon, Storm and Lagoon transform rare natural phenomena into handmade lacquer dials using traditional Vietnamese Sơn Mài craftsmanship, silver leaves and natural pigments.

Through the life of a brand, some pieces make a lasting impression. Back in 2025, when AWAKE presented the Frosted Leaf technique for the very first time, watch collectors and enthusiasts all around the world were unanimously… enthusiastic.

One year—and two Awards—later, Frosted Leaf is back, featuring three new creations inspired by rare and intense natural phenomena. These three versions convey the feeling of Mankind, awestruck by the grandiosity of Nature.

Blood Moon, Storm, Lagoon—they tell us about Life, catching these exceptional moments granted by Nature. They push even further the limits of a unique craftsmanship, fixing fleeting instants in lacquer for all eternity. Unforeseeable but unforgettable instants.

PRESERVING, MODERNIZING, TRANSMITTING

AWAKE’s relationship with the Métiers d’Art is not just a matter of watchmaking. It is a matter of highlighting craftsmanship, transcending borders and boundaries, and giving prominence to diverse identities and cultures—within the frame of a dial. Promoting aesthetics, handicraft, meticulousness, and timelessness is also key. Each project of the brand aims at showcasing and preserving traditional savoir-faire by making them part of our daily lives.

CATCHING A FLEETING MOMENT

Since AWAKE was created in 2019, Nature and Arts have been the core inspirations of the brand. The common thread of all AWAKE’s watchmaking projects, allowing the brand to create unique and enthralling pieces. This mindset is shared by AWAKE’s Master Lacquerers, who wish to push further the limits of their antique techniques. Thanks to their commitment, the dials of the Frosted Leaf collection convey the beauty of the world. In 2025, AWAKE drew its inspiration from the breathtaking sight of Earth from Space.

In 2026, AWAKE intends to catch Nature in some of its most exceptional moments. Mixing poetry and craftsmanship to fix them in lacquer, thus turning ephemeral into eternal. Blood Moon, Storm, and Lagoon are inspired by three rare and intense natural phenomena. When witnessing them, people are suddenly aware of their own smallness, facing something way bigger than themselves. Such a striking, universal feeling. During these natural epiphanies, while the beauty of Nature is fully on display, Time seems to stop.

“The Blood Moon only appears for a few hours per year. A clap of thunder only lasts a split second. A perfect lagoon can only be found in some places around the World. Put together, these three phenomena illustrate the dichotomies at the core of AWAKE’s creative universe: ephemeral VS eternal, light VS dark, common VS uncanny, perceptible VS hidden.”

Lilian THIBAULT—AWAKE’s founder

TURNING EPHEMERAL MOMENTS INTO ETERNAL ITEMS

Blood Moon, Storm, Lagoon: three new iterations with powerful dials that poetically capture life in motion and preserve nature at its most rare and fleeting. They push even further the boundaries of this singular ancestral Vietnamese technique (known as glacis) which makes it possible to seal within lacquer, for eternity, that which by nature does not last. Each dial is conceived as a complete visual and sensory experience, inviting inward reflection and reminding people to cherish those unplanned moments that arrive without warning, and stay with them forever.

Blood Moon

The dials of the “Blood Moon” version are inspired by one of the most fascinating celestial phenomena: the so-called “Blood Moon” which happens during a total lunar eclipse. The Moon moves through Earth’s shadow, assuming a deep shade of red and looking almost unreal. Such a rare event, which only happens a few days every ten years, tends to overwhelm anyone who witnesses it. Paradoxically, the Moon shines in darkness. But it shines differently, adding some mystery. As if our faithful companion was revealing its dark side. No wonder so many civilizations saw it as a sign of profound changes to come.

The dials wear black and red: the colors of passion, desire and mystery. They defy each other, enhance each other, creating an exceptional visual depth, between light and darkness. Such a transient moment, captured for eternity thanks to AWAKE’s exclusive Frosted Leaf technique.

Lagoon

The “Lagoon” dials pay tribute to the mesmerizing beauty of lagoons and their relation to light. Between sea and land, depth and surface, they display incomparable and magical optical effects. AWAKE decided to capture them in its dials. Translucent greenish blue, intense turquoise, deep cobalt blue or silvery pale blue, lagoons are like breathing, living creatures, always changing. Transparent at first glance, the “Lagoon” dials actually include a whole universe. Diving into them is like diving into yourself, finding some hidden truths. Such an artistic achievement was allowed by AWAKE’s Frosted Leaf technique and the command of its Master Lacquerers. Light goes through several layers of lacquer, natural pigments, and silver leaves, producing visual effects similar to lagoon waters.

“Lagoon” watches foster people to see beyond what is visible. They are made for those who know that the most precious things are way under the surface. A silent reminder that some treasures, and savoir-faire, are timeless. You reach wiseness when you realize how much is left to discover.

Storm

The “Storm” dials are an artistic rendering of one of the few natural phenomena which generates awe and fear alike: storms. Mankind has been both fascinated by and fearful of storms, since the dawn of time. They still have a strong, universal meaning, even today. Black and orange hues convey the beauty and danger of a flash of lightning ripping the darkness. It merely lasts a split second—all it needs to illuminate everything around, with unequaled intensity. A bold dial with electric vibes, illustrating the huge amount of energy suddenly unleashed by Nature. It also displays the duality of destruction and creation, silence and crash, fear and amazement.

“Storm” is for those who are looking for a lively and unpredictable watch, neither conventional nor discreet. People who live life to its full and who know that unforgettable moments happen suddenly, without notice, with an unpredictable strength.

15 HOURS TO CATCH THE UNCATCHABLE

The remarkable technique used to produce the Blood Moon, Storm and Lagoon dials requires the highest level of focus and dexterity. It is a long and complex handicraft—each movement is of paramount importance. And perfection is the only objective. Each dial is like a hypnotizing “millefeuille”, playing with light.

  • A rare and delicate raw material: it starts with the sap of the Rhus verniciflua tree, which grows in North Vietnam. After a decade, each tree only gives 200 ml of the precious liquid per year. The harvest happens only at daybreak, in June and July. Purified and dehydrated, the sap becomes a transparent lacquer, well-known for making shine and protecting surfaces.
  • An antique and unique Vietnamese art: Sơn Mài is an age-old technique, requiring several years of practice. It consists in applying and polishing several layers of natural lacquer to obtain a mirror-like surface with unrivalled depth. Contrary to the Chinese and Japanese traditions, Vietnamese craftsmen include precious materials between layers of lacquer—like silver leaves, in this case—to create a one-of-a-kind texture, with relief and plays of light.
  • A shining and sparkling silver leaf: At the bottom of the dial, the craftsmen apply a first layer of lacquer and very dark black pigments. Then they varnish it. They apply the first layer of pure silver leaves with a brush and delicately sand it to remove the excess of material. It all gives an organic quality to the dials, with metallic and warm flashes of light.
  • An exceptional depth: That is where the “Frosted” technique comes in. Instead of starting the lacquer layering as usual with “classic” dials, AWAKE’s Master Lacquerers repeat the previous process, adding silver leaves to lacquer. Said lacquer is enriched with blue, orange or red pigments, thus creating a striking contrast. The material laying between each layer is lively. This technique requires patience and consistency. And time… It dramatically enhances the complexity of the dials.
  • A gifted craftsman: This light and substance “millefeuille” is then entrusted to the most experienced craftsman of the workshop. He must sand it with the greatest care, directly with his fingers, to slowly unveil the reliefs and patterns that render every dial unique. Several layers of lacquer, each sanded and polished, are needed to offer a perfect and eternal brilliance. The process is methodical, demanding, and lengthy (about 15 hours). Any mistake could spoil the dial.
  • A unique piece of art: The full process requires patience, dexterity and focus. It turns each dial into a one-off piece, where Light and Time stop and converse. They also bear the marks of the expert hands that made them. They are the results of an antique handiwork, bringing a century-long tradition to the present days.

NEW 38 MM CASE

These three models are equipped with AWAKE’s new 38 mm case—with thinner proportions. Perfectly balanced, its elegance is definitely accentuated by the concave lines of the polished bezel, along with the slightly convex sapphire crystal, and the delicately rounded lugs. The result is a mix between 1960s aesthetics and contemporary design. The contrast between polished surfaces and satin-finished sides is an adhesion to modernity. The slightly resized and now screw-down winding crown—allowing a 100 m water resistance—is adorned with a new “coat of arms”, symbolizing AWAKE’s commitment to Artisanship. Finally, the rehaut has been reshaped, expounding AWAKE’s vision with clarity and authenticity.

REIMAGINED BRAND IDENTITY

The dials show AWAKE’s new visual identity with a handwritten logo, as a tribute to the craftsmen’s handiwork. It is not only about aesthetics, it is about highlighting Tradition, Savoir-faire and Métiers d’Art in a contemporary frame. Punched with AWAKE’s new coat of arms illustrating transmission and cultural dialogue, the watches embody the brand’s sensibility and commitment. Each detail glorifies the richness of Artisanat and AWAKE’s will to keep it alive.

HIGHLIGHTED SAVOIR-FAIRE—QUITE LITERALLY…

Blood Moon, Storm and Lagoon display AWAKE’s exclusive “Chiaroscuro” luminous signature, which enhances the depth and contrasts of the dials, whether by day or by night. Hands and indexes combine Super-LumiNova® BGW9 and polished, brushed, and faceted steel. This innovation, called “coiffe”, allows for a subtle diffusion of light and a better readability without spoiling the dial. During the day, discretion is de rigueur. In the dark, luminescence works its magic. A gentle luminous halo appears and accentuates the brilliance of the lacquer, the sparkling of the silver leaves and the contrast of the pigments, bringing poetry and technical exploit together. A feast for the eyes!

LA JOUX-PERRET G101 MOVEMENT

The automatic G101 movement—made by Swiss manufacture La Joux-Perret—is the beating heart of the Blood Moon, Storm, and Lagoon models. Performing and reliable, up-to-date and precise, this finely-finished caliber offers a 68-hour power reserve. Besides, it is equipped with AWAKE’s new custom-made rotor. Made of tungsten, the rotor associates technical prowess and elegance, thanks to its reliefs and counter-reliefs, embellished by polished, brushed and bead-blasted finishes. The rehaut is engraved with AWAKE’s motto—Illuminating the hands and heritage behind rare crafts—and its slogan—Artisanship, Awakened.

HOMEMADE AND HANDMADE STRAPS

To make the new pieces even more sublime, AWAKE chose nubuck calfskin straps in orange, red and blue. They are made by hand in France. More precisely, AWAKE calls on the master leather workers of Maison Bouveret, in Franche-Comté (French Jura). No less than 60 steps are necessary to produce comfortable and sustainable straps, according to strict specifications. Each one shows tone-on-tone topstitching and black rubberized calfskin lining, which offer a highest level of flexibility, water, and wear resistance. Finally, these straps are equipped with AWAKE’s new Fitwell M1 micro-adjustment ardillon buckle, with only 3 mm between each hole. Hence a perfect fitting to feel comfortable all day long. The outcome is both technical and refined, so that connoisseurs can enjoy their watch on a daily basis. Dimensions: 115×75 – 20/16.

A PROPOSITION LIKE NO OTHER

The new creations have many assets: unique handmade dials, using two antique Métiers d’Art techniques; an exclusive luminous signature; a reputable Swiss caliber; straps made by hand in France. They are worth €2,820, taxes and shipping costs included, all around the world. True to its vision, AWAKE does its best to offer watches associating aesthetics, fine watchmaking, traditional savoir-faire and pure emotions, while remaining within the same price range.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

References:

Sơn Mài – Frosted Leaf « Storm » – standard collection – around 100 pieces a year

Sơn Mài – Frosted Leaf « Blood Moon » – standard collection – around 100 pieces a year

Sơn Mài – Frosted Leaf « Lagoon » – standard collection – around 100 pieces a year

Case: 316L Stainless Steel

Diameter: 38 mm

Lug to lug: 44,75 mm

Lug width: 20 mm

Thickness: 11.5 mm, glass included/10 mm without glass

Métier d’Art dials: each dial requires 15 hours of work. They are handmade, using two traditional savoir-faire: Sơn Mài Vietnamese lacquerwork and pure silver leaves

Indexes and hands: Super-LumiNova® BGW9, AWAKE exclusive luminous “coiffe” signature

Water resistance: 10 ATM (100 m)

Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire crystal

Case back: screw-down, sapphire crystal

Movement: Automatic La Joux-Perret G101 – 68-hour power reserve

Decorations: New custom-made rotor made of tungsten, with reliefs and counter-reliefs, polished, brushed and bead-blasted finishes. Bead-blasted and engraved rehaut

Strap: Maison Bouveret – nubuck calfskin – rubberized calfskin lining, tone-on-tone topstitching – curved quick-release spring bars – new adjustment ardillon buckle

Warranty: 3 years, globally

HYT Fluidic Watchmaking: Lucien Vouillamoz on the Future of HYT

HYT: When Time Learns to Flow

An exclusive EyesOnTime conversation with HYT’s co-founder on risk, fluidic innovation, the future of independent watchmaking and why mechanical timekeeping is becoming an art of expression.

Lucien Vouillamoz — engineer, inventor, entrepreneur, philanthropist

Lucien Vouillamoz is a Swiss engineer, inventor, entrepreneur, and philanthropist.

He is best known as the original creator of the mecano-fluidic technology behind HYT watches—a world-first innovation that united fine watchmaking with the poetry of fluids, redefining the boundaries of timekeeping.

He has also significantly invested in Kairos Technologies Switzerland (KTS), the company that revived the HYT brand. While not a member of its Board of Directors, this commitment reflects his strong belief in HYT as the proud standard-bearer of fluidic watchmaking—the modern heir to the ancient clepsydra, which measured time through water more than 3,500 years ago.

Beyond HYT, Vouillamoz has co-founded and supported several ventures at the crossroads of Swiss precision and innovation, yet his true passion remains the art of horology and the dialogue between mechanics, fluids, and time.

Living in Feusisberg, Switzerland, he is married, with four children and ten grandchildren. A passionate sailor, he spends several weeks each year exploring the seas of the world. Committed to giving back, he founded Ganydar.org, a philanthropic initiative supporting education for young people in Latin America.

At the intersection of invention, heritage, and vision, Lucien Vouillamoz embodies both the spirit of Swiss innovation and the timeless pursuit of horological excellence.

What happens when you put liquid inside a mechanical watch?

For HYT’s co-founder, the answer is wonderfully dramatic: “bringing the devil into the machine.”

It is also an accurate description of the technological challenge that has defined HYT from the beginning. A mechanical wristwatch is expected to be watertight, precise and reliable. HYT chose to introduce liquid into that equation and, more radically, make the movement of that liquid the means of displaying time.

The idea sounds simple when reduced to a sentence.

Making it work was anything but.

The development required flexible, watertight bellows derived from aerospace technology, precision-formed borosilicate glass, specialised surface treatments to control the interaction between different liquids and glass, and an interface capable of transferring mechanical energy into fluidic motion using very little energy.

HYT was not merely designing a new watch display. It was creating technologies to make that display possible.

And even after the first watches reached the market, the story was far from finished. The company developed the fluidic mechanism as a replaceable module, allowing early owners to have it upgraded as the technology evolved. According to the interview, approximately eight years were required to resolve the fluidic, mechanical and synchronisation challenges.

Today, that history gives HYT an unusual perspective on innovation. The brand has already taken the risk of doing something that traditional watchmaking had never done before. The question now is what happens when that disruptive technology has been mastered.

In this exclusive conversation with EyesOnTime, HYT’s co-founder discusses the risks behind the brand, what a future without liquid might look like, the misconceptions surrounding hydromechanical watchmaking, the company’s turbulent leadership history, the balance between chaos and engineering discipline, and the surprising applications of HYT’s fluidic technology beyond watches.

Because HYT has already done the seemingly impossible once.

The more interesting question now is: what will it do with time next? 

“Many independent brands innovate, but HYT disrupts”

EyesOnTime: Many independent brands innovate, but HYT disrupts. How do you decide which risks are worth taking in a category that already sees you as the outlier?

HYT: It was a very big risk.

To integrate or put liquid inside a wristwatch, which is supposed to be watertight, is, technologically speaking, bringing the devil into the machine.

When we launched HYT, practically none of the technologies we needed existed in the form required for a high-end wristwatch.

Take the bellows, for example. These reservoirs use technology from the space industry. They have to be watertight but extremely flexible because the watch does not have a lot of available energy.

And then there is aesthetics.

The military industry does not necessarily need these bellows to be beautiful. In a high-end wristwatch, they have to be aesthetically pleasing as well. You have to combine functionality, physical difficulties and aesthetics.

There were many other challenges.

HYT uses different liquids, and we had to compensate for their expansion and contraction with temperature. The capillary is made of borosilicate glass, and nobody before us had formed that glass with the precision required by Swiss watchmaking. We had to develop a machine specifically for it.

Even the interaction between the liquids and the glass created a problem. One liquid behaves more like oil and the other more like water, so we needed a special surface treatment inside the capillary to make both behave correctly.

Then there was energy.

Normally, you have enough energy in a mechanical movement to move a needle or a hand. Here, we had to move an entire system. We therefore had to develop an interface between the mechanical movement and the fluidic movement that could move a relatively important amount of liquid with very little energy.

That is what made HYT so risky.

The collectors who took the risk with HYT

There was another group taking a risk alongside the company: its earliest customers.

HYT knew that it was impossible to wait for perhaps ten years of development before putting the technology on the market. The real world had to become part of the development process.

The solution was to separate the mechanical movement from the fluidic system and make the fluidic module replaceable. Early owners could return their watches and have the module replaced as technological problems were resolved.

That meant HYT’s first collectors were not simply buying an unconventional watch.

They were trusting an unconventional technology.

According to the interview, around eight years were required to resolve the various challenges, including the fluidic system, mechanical components and synchronisation between the two. By 2017, the technological problems had been resolved to the point where the wearer could focus on the beauty, history and emotion of the watch rather than the technology itself.

For an independent watchmaker, that is an extraordinary way to build a collector relationship.

The customer did not merely witness the evolution.

The customer became part of it.

What happens if HYT removes the liquid?

EyesOnTime: The fluidic module is HYT’s signature. If you had to reinvent HYT without fluids, but with the same rebellious spirit, what would that vision look like?

HYT: That is exactly the body of the next ten years of HYT.

We are working on using some very unusual technologies to reinterpret the primordial ways humans have used to show time.

I cannot be too precise because we have to be a bit secret about that, but we have a plan for the next ten years with three major jumps.

The spirit will remain exactly the same: disruptive and technologically ambitious. One direction will continue with liquids, while another will explore something without liquids, but with exactly the same spirit.

There is another important lesson we have learned from being on the market.

We have to go smaller.

We are working on technologies that could fit into watches around 36 or 38 millimetres, ideally below 40 millimetres.

Smaller. Thinner.

We are also looking at lower entry prices, ideally from CHF 35,000.

That may be one of the most revealing answers in the interview.

HYT is not suggesting that its future lies in abandoning its identity and becoming conventional. Instead, the challenge is to translate its disruptive philosophy into smaller, thinner watches while exploring new technologies that may not require liquid at all.

The fluidic watch was the first chapter.

It may not be the last.

Is HYT misunderstood?

EyesOnTime: What’s a misconception the industry still has about hydromechanical watchmaking that you wish would disappear?

HYT: Perhaps part of the misconception comes from how we are taught to read watches.

When you are a child, you learn how to read a conventional watch. You learn what the position of the hands represents. It becomes an education.

Within the watch community, there is therefore a certain bias toward hands showing the time.

What has not really been done in high-end watches is the use of gauges.

Gauges are familiar from the automotive industry, but HYT brought that language into watchmaking. We did not only bring liquids. We brought a different way of showing time.

Perhaps that can create the impression that it is a gimmick.

But if you understand that HYT is reinterpreting a water clock on the wrist, the concept becomes different.

That historical connection is something HYT now wants to explore more deeply.

The brand discussed bringing together the history of monumental water clocks, educating people about them and creating events or smaller water clocks connected with HYT. The aim is to take people back to the real origins of water-based timekeeping: the clepsydra.

It is a clever distinction.

HYT is not simply asking people to understand a strange-looking watch.

It is asking them to reconsider something much older: how humanity has always tried to visualise the passage of time.

From complexity to poetry

That historical perspective also explains something fundamental about HYT.

The brand is not trying to compete with atomic clocks on precision.

The interview makes that point quite clearly. From sundials and water clocks to mechanical watches, quartz and atomic timekeeping, humanity has progressively developed more precise ways of measuring time. Today, nobody needs a mechanical watch simply to know the correct time.

Connected watches have taken the wrist in another direction altogether, turning it into a platform for information and personal utility.

So where does that leave the mechanical watch?

For HYT, it leaves room for art.

The interview describes the brand’s contribution as adding a new chapter of “poetry” to high-end horology.

Mechanical watchmaking itself is already a combination of different crafts and forms of artistic expression. HYT adds another axis by using fluidics to create a new visual representation of time.

The evolution of the brand can therefore be seen in two stages.

First, master the complexity.

Then, once the complexity is under control, return to the poetry.

That is where HYT says it finds itself now.

Can chaos and precision coexist?

EyesOnTime: How do you balance the instinct for wild creativity, colours, materials and architecture with the engineering team’s strict performance and reliability requirements?

HYT: The ground of creativity is chaos.

You cannot put an artist or creative person into an entirely structured environment. Creativity needs chaos.

But creativity is the opposite of productivity.

Chaos allows creativity. Structure allows productivity. The secret is therefore having the right people at the right moment in the process Some people create the disruption. Others structure it and make that disruption productive through quality, reliability and cost control.

The history of HYT illustrates exactly why that distinction matters.

When the company began, it could not find a single established industry capable of providing all the technologies it required. Microfluidics, glass forming and micromechanics existed as separate disciplines.

Some of the early technologies even had to come from outside Europe. The bellows were American, while an early coating technology was developed by a company in San Diego.

The coating alone illustrates the extent of the challenge.

One application reportedly cost a significant amount, during the early development phase. It was transparent and hidden inside the glass, but without it, the system could not function.

That is the less glamorous side of disruption.

The idea may be beautiful.

Making it reliable is expensive, difficult and sometimes painfully slow.

What will redefine independent watchmaking?

EyesOnTime: What’s something in HYT’s pipeline, whether technology, material or concept, that you believe will redefine what collectors expect from independent watchmaking in the next three years?

HYT: The company is working on three major technological jumps, including approaches that continue with liquids and others that explore ways of expressing time without them. At the same time, it is working toward smaller and thinner watches, with a target of ideally staying below 40 millimetres, alongside a lower potential entry point.

That restraint is telling.

In an industry where brands often tease future products with carefully calculated hints, HYT’s answer essentially says: the future is coming, but we are not going to tell you everything yet.

What it does reveal is the direction.

Smaller.

Thinner.

Technologically disruptive.

And potentially beyond liquid.

When a watchmaking invention leaves the watch

EyesOnTime: If you could collaborate with any non-watchmaking field, whether space technology, automotive, biotech or gaming, which sector feels most HYT, and why?

HYT: The immediate answer is liquid.

Liquid is life.

When HYT developed its technology, the original concept was about mastering the precise movement of liquid on living bodies. At microlitre precision, the same principles can have applications far beyond watches, including the controlled delivery of medical fluids.

That led naturally into medical technology.

The technology company associated with HYT’s intellectual property, Preciflex, has worked in parallel with the watch industry on medical applications. The interview also refers to PreciHealth and work involving diagnostics and blood analysis.

But the applications do not stop there.

The same thinking has found its way into the cigar industry, where precise control of liquids is important, and into deep geothermal energy, where fluidic systems are used in extracting heat from the Earth.

There is even a project addressing sea-level rise and plastic pollution through platforms on the high seas.

It is one of the most unexpected revelations of the conversation.

HYT’s fluidic technology may have begun as a watchmaking experiment, but the underlying expertise is not limited to watches.

The wristwatch was the proving ground.

The technology can travel much further.

Four CEOs, one idea

EyesOnTime: HYT has gone through a revival and leadership changes. What was the hardest cultural shift you had to introduce inside the company, and what was the most rewarding?

The answer takes the question in a slightly different direction.

Rather than describing one particular cultural shift, HYT’s co-founder reflects on the brand having gone through four different CEOs, each with a distinct personality and interpretation of the same fundamental idea.

Each CEO interpreted the same concept differently.

The underlying expression of time remained, while the creative interpretation changed.

That adaptability may be one of HYT’s greatest strengths.

The concept is strong enough to survive different personalities.

The people who believed before HYT was proven

The story also belongs to the collectors and retailers who were willing to take the risk.

The first customers purchased a completely new type of watch at considerable cost, knowing that the technology was still evolving. HYT remains deeply appreciative of those early owners.

Retailers were equally important.

The interview specifically mentions Laurent Picciotto as one of the early adopters who was willing to believe that HYT’s disruption was strong enough to persuade customers to embrace it.

It is an important reminder about independent watchmaking.

Disruption does not happen because an inventor has an idea.

It happens when enough people are willing to believe in that idea before the market has decided that it makes sense.

And HYT has always had a story that begins with the question of why a mechanical watch should look and behave the way it traditionally does.

When inspiration comes from outside watchmaking

That same philosophy can also be seen in HYT’s more unusual collaborations and limited editions.

The interview discusses an S1 cigar-inspired watch whose design translates elements of cigar culture into horological details.

The brown alligator strap recalls cigar leaves. The rose-gold case references the rings associated with cigars, while the red fluid evokes the fire of a lit cigar. A Havana-chocolate dial and rose-gold indexes complete the visual connection.

The edition is limited to eight pieces worldwide.

Here again, the fluid is not merely functional.

It becomes part of the narrative.

That is perhaps the clearest demonstration of HYT’s evolution from complexity toward poetry.

What does the mechanical watch become in a digital world?

EyesOnTime: In a world shifting toward digital timekeeping, how do you ensure that HYT stays relevant while still being unapologetically analogue and mechanical?

The answer lies in rejecting the idea that a mechanical watch must compete with digital technology on digital technology’s terms.

Nobody needs a mechanical watch simply to know the time.

The modern world already has more precise and convenient solutions.

The value of the mechanical watch therefore moves elsewhere.

Into craftsmanship.

Into mechanics.

Into design.

Into the experience of watching something mechanical come alive on the wrist.

For HYT, that means adding another dimension to the artistic language of watchmaking.

The brand’s fluidic display takes one of humanity’s earliest methods of measuring time and places it inside an extraordinarily sophisticated mechanical object.

That is why the future of HYT will not be defined by liquid alone.

If the company’s philosophy is to reinterpret the primordial ways humans have represented time, then liquid is only one possible language.

The next could be something entirely different.

HYT’s story began with an audacious question:

What if time could flow?

Answering it required years of technological development, the creation of components and processes that did not previously exist for watchmaking, the patience of early collectors and the willingness of retailers to support an idea that was far from conventional.

The company has also endured leadership changes and bankruptcy, while continuing to refine the technology at the heart of its identity.

Now, however, the challenge is changing.

The technology has been mastered.

The next stage is about imagination.

HYT’s co-founder describes that transition particularly well: the early years were dominated by the complexity of making the system work. Now, having mastered that complexity, the brand can focus once again on poetry.

That may be the most important thing to understand about HYT.

The liquid is not the destination.

It is a language.

And if HYT’s next decade delivers what this conversation hints at, the brand may eventually prove that its greatest innovation was never simply putting liquid inside a watch.

It was convincing us that there is no single correct way to show time.

 

 

 

Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Beige Debuts in 5N Red Gold for the Brand’s 15th Anniversary

Five years ago, to mark its first decade, LAURENT FERRIER unveiled the Classic Origin, a creation born of a clear vision, embodying a design philosophy that seeks to captivate never through excess, but through timeless balance. Today, to celebrate its fifteenth anniversary, the Maison reveals a new interpretation of this foundational model: the Classic Origin Beige.

A TIMELESS MODERNITY

It brings together the familiar curves of the emblematic 40 mm Classic case, whose lines recall a pebble gently smoothed by the flow of a river. For the first time within the LF collection, the Classic Origin exhibits an unexpected lustre thanks to 5N red gold. This noble, warmly toned metal, paired with a new beige dial, gives rise to a timepiece that radiates both reminiscence and modernity. Like a quiet echo of the past, its warm, delicately balanced tones exude a softness that transcends time without ever standing still, a subtle harmony between heritage and the present.

More than any other, the Classic Origin Beige embodies the minimalist spirit so dear to Laurent Ferrier. Its beige dial, infused with warm undertones, pulses to the rhythm of the brown railway track, central cross and hour marker transfers. Legibility, a value deeply cherished by the Genevan watchmaker, is ensured by the minute track punctuated with red numerals, mirroring the accents on the small seconds at six o’clock. At the centre, the signature 18k gold Assegai hands glide across the opaline surface with a serene elegance, as if already familiar with the story of time they reveal.

And then there is the crown. That detail one might think of as secondary, but never truly is. Its rounded, ball-like shape speaks volumes: more than a signature, it is an intention. Laurent designed it this way, generous and inviting, so that winding the watch would never feel like a mere mechanical action, but rather a moment of genuine pleasure. 

 

THE MECHANICS OF TIME

Beneath the sapphire case back lies the LF116.01 calibre, a manually wound movement. It forms the beating heart of the Classic Origin Beige, crafted with the same uncompromising refinement the Maison reserves for all of its calibres.

At its centre, a screw balance comes to life, guided by a Breguet-type overcoil hairspring. This pairing is no coincidence: it enhances precision, reduces positional errors and ensures consistent timekeeping, so that each passing second flows with the same accuracy as the last.

Yet this movement holds another secret, treasured by the most discerning collectors: the signature long-blade ratchet pawl. Entirely polished and chamfered by hand, it delivers a unique tactile sensation when winding, a crisp, unmistakable click. A sound that resonates like the hallmark of the most imposing timepieces. Once fully wound, the watch offers a power reserve of over 80 hours.

The LF116.01 calibre may appear more minimalist than some of the Maison’s more complex movements, yet it upholds the very same standard of meticulous finishing. The bridges are adorned with a sandblasted finish and treated in black rhodium, while every edge is hand polished. In contrast, the mirror-polished screws gleam like points of light. The finishing work as a whole, including the manually crafted interior angle on the escapement bridge, reflects the patient skill of the Maison’s artisans. Every component is hand-finished within the workshop. Nothing is left to chance – not even what remains unseen.

 

Completing this harmonious ensemble is a mocha nubuck strap lined with Alcantara. Its 5N red gold pin buckle echoes the case with warmth and elegance, manifesting the spirit of the piece down to the finest detail.

The Classic Origin Beige is more than a watch. It is a witness to a story that began fifteen years ago. It distils that legacy and brings it into the present. Above all, it embodies one discreet but unchanging truth: some forms of beauty never fade. They do more than stand the test of time. They make time their own.

CLASSIC ORIGIN BEIGE

Reference LCF036.R5.BR5

TECHNICAL DETAILS

Movement:
Manually wound calibre LF116.01
Swiss lever escapement
Screw balance
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock
Movement diameter: 31.60 mm
Thickness: 4.35 mm
Frequency: 3Hz (21,600 vph)
Power reserve: 80 hours
Number of components: 150
Jewels: 21

AESTHETIC CHARACTERISTICS

Case:
18k (750) 5N red gold
Water-resistant to 30 metres
Signature ball-shaped crown in 18k (750) 5N red gold
Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 10.70 mm

Dial:
Beige opaline finish with brown railway track and red minute numerals
Hour markers in 18k (750) 5N red gold

Hands:
Hours and minutes: Assegai-shaped in 18k (750) 5N red gold
Seconds: Baton-shaped in 18k (750) 5N red gold

Strap:
Hand-sewn mocha nubuck with tone-on-tone Alcantara lining
Pin buckle in 18k (750) 5N red gold

 

AWAKE Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Combines Hand Guilloché and Vietnamese Lacquer

When Two Rare Crafts Meet on a Watch Dial

Independent watchmaker AWAKE has introduced the new Sơn Mài – Guilloché Main collection, a series that brings together two traditional decorative arts rarely seen at this level of execution in contemporary watchmaking: hand-operated guilloché engraving and Vietnamese Sơn Mài lacquer work.

The collection also marks the debut of a new 38 mm case for the brand, shifting AWAKE toward more compact and classically proportioned watchmaking while maintaining a distinctly modern design language. Limited to 200 pieces each across three dial variations, the collection focuses heavily on craftsmanship, texture, and light interaction rather than excessive complication or overt luxury cues.

A Rare Combination of Decorative Arts

What makes the collection notable is the combination of two highly specialized crafts executed by separate artisan workshops across Europe and Asia. AWAKE collaborates with the Renzetti family in Italy for the guilloché work and with master lacquer artisans in Vietnam for the Sơn Mài finishing.

The guilloché patterns are created entirely by hand using historic straight-line and rose-engine machines dating back to the 19th century. Unlike stamped or CNC-generated textures commonly seen today, these patterns rely entirely on manual control, with artisans simultaneously guiding both the dial and cutting tool to engrave hundreds of precise grooves into the metal surface.

Once engraved, the dials are sent to Hanoi where layers of natural Sơn Mài lacquer are applied and polished repeatedly to create depth, transparency, and shifting color gradients. Derived from the sap of the Rhus Verniciflua tree, the lacquer develops a distinctive visual richness that changes depending on lighting conditions.

The result is a dial construction that feels more architectural than decorative. Rather than sitting on top of the guilloché, the lacquer amplifies the engraved patterns underneath, creating a layered surface that changes character throughout the day.

Three Celestial-Inspired Dial Variations

The collection is offered in three executions, each inspired by different atmospheric and celestial phenomena.

Sunset

The “Sunset” model features a drapé-moiré guilloché pattern inspired by wave-like ocean movement. Around one hundred engraved grooves create flowing textures beneath layered lacquer shades of pink, violet, and blue. The final effect resembles fading light reflecting across water during sunset conditions.

Alba

The “Alba” edition takes inspiration from sunrise energy through a helical guilloché motif designed to evoke movement and momentum. Warm lacquer tones intensify the engraved geometry underneath, producing a more dynamic and radiant visual profile.

Borealis

The “Borealis” dial uses a radiant guilloché pattern combined with cool-toned lacquer gradients intended to mirror the shifting reflections of the Northern Lights. Under changing light, the dial develops strong tonal transitions and pronounced depth.

Rather than treating color as a simple aesthetic choice, AWAKE uses lacquer almost like a lens over the engraved metal surface, allowing the dial texture to evolve depending on viewing angle and ambient light.

A More Refined Case Design

The introduction of the 38 mm stainless steel case represents a significant design evolution for the brand. With a lug-to-lug measurement of 44.75 mm and a thickness of 11.5 mm including the crystal, the proportions position the watch firmly within the growing preference for smaller, more wearable case sizes.

The case combines polished and brushed surfaces with a concave bezel and softly curved lugs that reference mid-century watch design without feeling overtly vintage. A domed sapphire crystal enhances the dial presentation, while the redesigned screw-down crown now delivers 100 meters of water resistance.

AWAKE has also introduced a new handwritten logo and emblem for the collection, emphasizing the brand’s growing focus on artisanal craftsmanship and cultural storytelling. Thankfully, the branding remains understated and complements the watch rather than competing with it.

Night-Time Legibility Without Sacrificing Dial Integrity

One of the more thoughtful technical details in the collection is the luminous execution. The hands and indices use Super-LumiNova BGW9 combined with steel caps featuring brushed, polished, and engraved finishing.

This construction allows the lume to remain visually discreet during daylight while still delivering strong night-time visibility. More importantly, it preserves the visual purity of the dial, ensuring the lacquer and guilloché work remain the dominant elements.

La Joux-Perret G101 Movement

Powering the collection is the Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G101 automatic calibre with a 68-hour power reserve.

The movement features a custom tungsten rotor finished with alternating brushed, polished, and micro-blasted surfaces. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the calibre reinforces the collection’s balance between decorative craftsmanship and practical modern watchmaking.

While the watches are clearly dial-focused creations, the use of the G101 gives the collection strong everyday usability and reliability, rather than positioning it purely as an artistic object.

Jean Rousseau Straps and Wearability

The collection is paired with Alcantara straps produced by French strap specialist Jean Rousseau. Available in green, violet, or orange, the straps feature colored stitching, rubberized calfskin lining, curved quick-release spring bars, and AWAKE’s new Fitwell M1 micro-adjustable pin buckle with 3 mm adjustment increments.

It is a small but meaningful detail. Independent brands often focus so heavily on dial artistry that wearability becomes secondary. Here, the strap and clasp system appear designed with daily comfort in mind.

Technical Specifications

  • Case: 316L stainless steel
  • Diameter: 38 mm
  • Thickness: 11.5 mm including crystal
  • Lug-to-lug: 44.75 mm
  • Water resistance: 100 meters
  • Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire
  • Movement: La Joux-Perret G101 automatic
  • Power reserve: 68 hours
  • Limited edition: 200 pieces per dial variant
  • Strap: Jean Rousseau Alcantara with adjustable buckle

Final Thoughts

The Sơn Mài – Guilloché Main collection succeeds because it treats craftsmanship as the foundation of the watch rather than a decorative afterthought. Many modern artisan-focused releases rely heavily on storytelling, but here the techniques themselves shape the identity of the piece.

By combining hand-operated guilloché with traditional Vietnamese lacquer work, AWAKE has created a collection that feels culturally layered, technically interesting, and visually distinctive without becoming theatrical. The restrained 38 mm sizing and accessible pricing further strengthen the proposition, especially in a market where genuine métiers d’art execution is increasingly associated with far higher price points.

There is a quiet confidence to this collection. It does not attempt to overwhelm with complexity or spectacle. Instead, it focuses on texture, craftsmanship, proportion, and the human hand behind every detail. Rare qualities in modern watchmaking, where half the industry seems convinced another skeletonized tourbillon shaped like a lunar insect is what humanity truly needed.

Federico Ziviani on Reinventing Gerald Charles | EyesOnTime

In this exclusive EyesOnTime conversation, Federico Ziviani reflects on innovation, heritage, and how Gerald Charles is shaping the future of modern independent watchmaking.

Introduction: Federico Ziviani – Ceo Gerald Charles

Born and raised in Milan, Federico Ziviani has grown up surrounded by fine watchmaking. His father, Franco Ziviani, was a long-standing distributor for Audemars Piguet, introducing Federico early to the discipline, culture, and craftsmanship of haute horlogerie.

After earning a degree in Business Administration and Management from Bayes Business School, Federico completed a Master of Science in Computer Science at University College London, specialising in machine learning, artificial intelligence, and blockchain networks. This rare combination of heritage, business insight, and advanced technology now defines his leadership approach.

In 2019, he became General Manager of Gerald Charles, a Maison founded in 2000 by Gérald Charles Genta in close collaboration with the Ziviani family. In 2023, he was appointed CEO.

EyesOnTime met Federico Ziviani at Dubai Watch Week to discuss innovation, heritage, and the future of Gerald Charles.

Breaking Rules the Right Way: Reinventing Watchmaking Finishing

EyesOnTime: Gerald Genta was known for breaking rules. What rule in watchmaking you feel most tempted to break next as Gerald Charles?

Federico Ziviani:
We are very focused on reinventing modern watchmaking finishing. A strong example of this is Meta-Guilloché, a new type of dial finishing that evolves from traditional guilloché.

Classical guilloché is executed using historic machines. Meta-Guilloché, instead, is created through a contemporary process we developed together with engineers coming from biotechnology. Using this method, we engrave more than 200,000 micro-lines on a single dial, creating a light reflection that is up to ten times brighter than traditional guilloché.

We introduced this finishing on our anniversary Jumping Hour watch. It represents our broader philosophy: respecting legacy while bringing it forward through modern engineering. And there will be many more innovations like this in the future.

Which Watch Would Surprise Gérald Charles Genta Today?

EyesOnTime: If you could bring Genta into the atelier today and show him one recent Gerald Charles watch, which one do you think he would be most surprised by and why?

Federico Ziviani:
I believe he would be very happy to see the Masterlink.

This was the last integrated bracelet he designed, originally created as a unique piece in 2007 — fully gem-set and made with around 40 carats of gold. What we have done is reinterpret that vision into a steel version that is simpler to wear and perfectly suited to everyday life.

It remains true to his original idea while expressing it in a contemporary way.

Beyond Design: Correcting a Common Misconception

EyesOnTime: Gerald Charles operates in an interesting space, niche yet globally recognized. What is a misconception people still have about the brand that you wish you could correct once and for all?

Federico Ziviani:
Many people are immediately attracted by our design, which is very distinctive. What I would love them to appreciate even more is the depth of engineering and watchmaking behind our creations.

For us, engineering comes first. Design follows the technical architecture. A good example is the Masterlink: achieving a slim 2.7mm profile, a micro-rotor movement, 100 metres of water resistance, and excellent wearability requires advanced watchmaking expertise.

This savoir-faire is at the heart of Gerald Charles.

Form and Freedom: The Art of Wearing Time

EyesOnTime: As the brand scales up, how do you avoid creating too much demand culture where scarcity becomes the story instead of the watch?

Federico Ziviani:
As Gerald Charles grows, its approach remains deliberately grounded. The Maison has never pursued scarcity as a narrative device, nor demand as an end in itself. The focus is singular: creating the best watch possible.

And today, the definition of the best watch has evolved. Luxury is no longer weight or fragility — it is comfort, freedom, and confidence in motion. A Gerald Charles is designed to remain on the wrist whether one is swimming, travelling, playing sport, or attending a formal evening. It is a watch that adapts instinctively to life, rather than asking life to adapt to it.

Scarcity, therefore, is not engineered — it is inherent. The asymmetric architecture of the case and bracelet, the complexity of the finishing, and the hundreds of components within each movement require a level of hand craftsmanship that cannot be industrialised without compromise. Production is naturally limited by the standards the Maison refuses to dilute.

Growth at Gerald Charles is not about producing more watches. It is about preserving the soul of watchmaking where engineering, ergonomics, and design coexist — uncompromised.

 

Inside the Genta Archive: Building for the Next Century

EyesOnTime: You have access to a deep archive of Genta sketches. What’s the most unexpected idea that you’ve discovered in that archive, that the world hasn’t seen yet?

Federico Ziviani:
The archive is incredibly rich, with many ideas that have not yet been seen by the world. Visitors can already get a glimpse of this universe at our museum in Dubai, where they can discover different shapes beyond the Maestro that Gérald created.

In the sketches, there are fascinating complications, beautifully skeletonised bridges, and designs that remain highly relevant today. This patrimony gives us the foundation to build Gerald Charles for the next 100 years.

Evolving an Icon: The Maestro Case and Modern Complications

EyesOnTime: The Maestro case is already an icon. What design challenge keeps you up at night when trying to evolve something that collectors consider untouchable?

Federico Ziviani:
The product is always at the centre of our thinking. We constantly want to make our watches more interesting and more expressive from a watchmaking perspective.

We have a clear plan to introduce one new complication every year, and each of these will be a modern reinterpretation rather than a traditional execution. Our goal is that the next best Gerald Charles watch is always the one still to come.

The Geneva Atelier: More Than a Manufacture

EyesOnTime: You recently opened the Geneva Atelier with a museum-style space. Beyond watches, what emotion or idea do you want visitors to walk away with?

Federico Ziviani:
I want visitors to leave with a strong sense of family. The Atelier is designed like our home.

Our family created Gerald Charles together with Gérald Charles Genta in 2000, and my father had been close friends with him since the 1980s. Gerald created this brand out of pure passion, and passion is what we want people to feel when they visit us.

We put our soul into every watch — the soul of our watchmakers, of my father, of myself, and of our entire team. When visitors come to Geneva, they experience Swiss-Italian hospitality, great food, great conversations, and direct interaction with our watchmakers, who take the time to explain their craft in an open and authentic way.

Looking Ahead: What Must Never Change

EyesOnTime: When you imagine Gerald Charles 20 years from now, what is the one element you hope remains exactly the same and the one element you hope is radically different?

Federico Ziviani:
What will remain the same — not just for 20 years, but for the next 100 years — is our ambition to create the best possible watches and to keep innovating.

Innovation is how we continue to create value and meaning. We are very happy with what we are building today. Being at Dubai Watch Week with a standalone independent booth, a museum, a workshop, and spaces to educate collectors reflects what we believe in.

What we have at Gerald Charles is a treasure of immense historical and creative value, and our responsibility is to cultivate it for generations to come.

Closing Perspective

Through engineering-led innovation, deep respect for heritage, and a clear long-term vision, Gerald Charles continues to evolve as a modern independent Maison. Under Federico Ziviani’s leadership, the spirit of Gérald Charles Genta remains expressive, contemporary, and firmly focused on the future.

 

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton — A Masterpiece of Transparency and Craftsmanship

In an era where high horology increasingly celebrates both tradition and innovation, Daniel Roth has unveiled a spectacular new expression of its iconic Extra Plat model — the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. This latest release showcases the brand’s commitment to refined aesthetics, masterful finishing, and structural ingenuity, taking watchmaking artistry to new heights.

A Fresh Interpretation of a Classic

The Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton reimagines Daniel Roth’s signature double-ellipse silhouette through a skeletal lens, offering an unobstructed view of the meticulously finished movement inside. Unlike its closed-dial predecessors, this model embraces transparency — revealing the heart of the watch: the new Calibre DR002SR.

Rather than simply removing material for effect, the watch’s open architecture was conceived with purpose. The bridges and plates have been reshaped and skeletonised to maximize visibility while preserving structural integrity. This balance between form and function underscores Daniel Roth’s modern approach to haute horlogerie.

Movement — The Soul in Full View

At the core of this piece, the DR002SR movement is more than just a technical engine — it’s a showcase of artisanal craftsmanship. Developed and assembled entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the calibre features:

  • Manual winding, emphasizing tactile interaction and horological purity.

  • A free-sprung balance beating at 4 Hz and a 65-hour power reserve — impressive performance for such a refined movement.

  • 141 components and 21 jewels, with bridges and mainplate reimagined in 18k 5N rose gold for both beauty and enduring quality.

The extensive hand-finishing — from internal anglage to polished countersinks and black-polished steel elements — is not just decoration but a testament to the skill of the master watchmakers behind the piece.

Design — Elegance Through Minimalism

The Extra Plat Skeleton’s design remains true to Daniel Roth’s distinctive DNA: the elegant double-ellipse case shape, now measuring 38.6 mm x 35.5 mm with a remarkably thin profile of 6.9 mm. Crafted from 18k 5N rose gold, the case envelops the movement like a precious frame — warm, rich, and luminous.

With no dial distractions — no indexes, no numerals — the only visual anchors are the blued steel arrow-shaped hands, elegantly floating above the openwork movement. This pared-back design draws the viewer’s attention directly to the geometry and finish of the calibre, making every gesture of craftsmanship visible and appreciable.

The watch sits comfortably on a soft calfskin leather strap with a matching rose gold pin buckle, marrying sophistication with everyday wearability.

A Tribute to Watchmaking Tradition

Skeletonisation is more than an aesthetic choice — it’s a horological tradition that celebrates the mechanics of timekeeping. It requires acute technical understanding and artistic sensibility to maintain durability and readability while stripping away material. In the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton, this tradition is honored boldly and beautifully.

This new model not only reflects the evolution of Daniel Roth’s design language but also cements the brand’s status in contemporary haute horlogerie. By revealing the inner workings of the movement, it invites collectors and enthusiasts to witness mechanical brilliance in its most honest form.

Technical Snapshot

Case

Material: Rose gold 5N
Dimensions: 38.6m x 35.5mm
Thickness: 6.9mm
Water Resistance: 30m

Strap

Lug width – Material: 20mm – Calfskin leather

Calibre

DR002SR – Manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of Master Watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.

Power Reserve – Frequency: ~65 hours – 4Hz
Dimensions: 31 x 28mm

Final Thoughts

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is a celebration of transparency — not just in form, but in philosophy. By revealing the movement’s soul and honoring the craft of traditional watchmaking, it stands as a compelling piece for collectors who value both technical mastery and timeless design.

Whether you’re a seasoned enthusiast or a newcomer to haute horology, this watch exemplifies what makes skeletonised timepieces so enduringly captivating: the beauty of time, stripped down to its essence.

Block RG Stealth Tourbillon: When Time Becomes Sculpture

Block RG was never conceived as a watch in the conventional sense. It emerged as a gesture — a deliberate rupture from established horological language — and a sculptural exploration of what time becomes when reduced to pure form. Its purpose is not to please, persuade, or conform. It exists with presence and intention.

The Stealth Tourbillon marks the inaugural chapter of the brand’s Stealth Collection, and with it, Block RG asserts a philosophy closer to contemporary art and architecture than traditional watchmaking.

A Volume Shaped by Light

At first encounter, the Stealth Tourbillon presents itself as a monolithic object — sharp, faceted, and architecturally pure. Its form draws inspiration from stealth aviation, where geometry, tension, and surface interaction define both function and identity.

Crafted in either rose gold or titanium, the case expresses two distinct emotional registers. Rose gold introduces warmth, density, and gravitas, giving the sculpture a grounded presence. Titanium, by contrast, offers lightness and modern clarity, emphasizing precision and contemporary restraint.

A multi-angled sapphire crystal completes the architectural intent, creating depth and visual tension while allowing light to refract across the movement beneath. The result is not decorative transparency, but spatial drama — the sensation of a mechanism suspended within a crystalline structure.

A Strictly Limited Creation

Exclusivity is not a marketing exercise here; it is intrinsic to the object’s philosophy.

Only 24 pieces of the Stealth Tourbillon exist worldwide:

  • Eight in rose gold

  • Eight in titanium with a red hand

  • Eight in titanium with a blue hand — already sold

Each watch is individually assembled, adjusted, and finished as a singular object. These are not units on a production line, but autonomous works, each carrying its own presence and subtle variation.

The Mechanical Heart

At the core lies the Block 1 Tourbillon movement, developed in collaboration with Telos. Hand-wound, operating at 4 Hz, and offering a four-day power reserve, the movement comprises 187 components and 29 jewels.

Yet, unlike traditional high-complication watches, the movement does not seek visual dominance. It is integrated with restraint. It breathes quietly within the sculpture, serving the form with honesty rather than spectacle. Hours and minutes are indicated with clarity, while the tourbillon carries seconds and reinforces the sense of time in motion — present but never intrusive.

This is mechanics as architecture’s silent partner, not its centerpiece.

A Contemporary Presence on the Wrist

In the hand and on the wrist, the Stealth Tourbillon defies expectation. It appears strong and imposing, yet feels unexpectedly light. It is monolithic in form, yet refined in wearability.

At 46.7 × 36.7 × 13.9 mm, the watch does not attempt to disappear. Instead, it balances contradiction and harmony — weight and lightness, sharpness and fluidity, precision and emotion.

This is not a watch designed to blend in. It is designed to exist.

A Statement of Identity

Collectors who choose Block RG are not simply adding another complication or heritage reference to their collection. They are introducing a different language — one that aligns more naturally with contemporary art, industrial design, and architectural thought than with classical horology.

The Stealth Tourbillon does not reference the past. It speaks in the present tense, offering a vision of watchmaking where form leads function, where restraint becomes strength, and where time itself is treated as a sculptural concept.

Block RG does not ask to be understood immediately. It asks only to be encountered.

Jaquet Droz: Where Disruption Meets Emotion – An Exclusive Conversation with CEO Alain Delamuraz

In the world of haute horlogerie, few names carry the mystique of Jaquet Droz. Known for its automata, métiers d’art, and poetic approach to time, the brand has spent nearly three centuries challenging conventions while keeping emotion at the heart of every creation.

During his recent visit to India, Alain Delamuraz, CEO of Jaquet Droz, shared his thoughts on legacy, innovation, and the brand’s deepening connection with Indian collectors.

Art Beyond Time

When asked whether Jaquet Droz feels closer to a poem, a painting, or a piece of music, Alain Delamuraz resists a single definition: “I think that all the arts are connected. Watchmaking art, métiers d’art, paillons, enamel, engraving, micro-painting — all these things are together. If you copy an art, you die. All the arts need to be challenged every time.”

For him, watchmaking at Jaquet Droz is less about the object itself and more about the dialogue it inspires: “We do not make a piece and then try to sell it. We create it together with the people who will wear it. It’s a connection, a human connection.”

Disruptive Legacy

With centuries of history behind the brand, the temptation might be to look backward. Alain Delamuraz instead looks forward: “The question is not what did Pierre Jaquet-Droz do, the question is what he would do today if he were still alive… He was a disruptive person — inventive, creative, full of craziness. We have to keep this disruptive attitude. Disruptive is positive — it is not destroying, but it is faster and more creative than normal evolution.”
For him, disruption is not an occasional strategy but the brand’s DNA: “Innovation is our tradition. Disruption is our legacy.”

The Soul of Emotion

Precision is essential, but it is emotion that defines true luxury. As Alain Delamuraz explains: “You can have passion, authenticity, technical excellence — but without emotion, it is nothing. We are in direct connection between an artist and another artist who is the collector. If there is no emotion, people don’t buy. There is never, ever something we do without emotion.”

That emotional connection is rooted in people — the watchmakers, artisans, and collectors who bring each piece to life: “The soul is that you can see the people making your piece of art. You talk with the engraver, the painter, the enameller. You create together. That, I believe, is the soul of Jaquet Droz: putting people together, humanizing luxury, and giving emotion — not only price.”

India: A Dialogue of Cultures

India, with its rich artistic heritage, resonates naturally with Jaquet Droz’s philosophy. “We take inspiration from every culture — Japan, China, India. We also did some Indian themes. Always by hand, always unique, one-of-one. That is why I am here in India — to feel the culture, to meet people, to understand more, and to be more ready to create bespoke pieces of art in the spirit of this culture.”

Indian collectors, he observes, are especially eager to co-create: “It would begin with colors, crafts, and themes unique to India — because this is what connects naturally to our métiers d’art. We work with the client to refine it: more blue, less green, more red, different materials. The idea is always to co-create.”

What excites him most about the market is its youthful boldness: “The younger generation cannot be fooled. They want authenticity, emotion, and individuality. They are curious and bold. That’s why we create both the timeless and the unexpected.”

Collaborations & Living Art

Beyond watches, Jaquet Droz has often blurred the lines between horology and fine art. A striking example is the brand’s collaboration with John Howe, the legendary illustrator behind The Lord of the Rings: “He created a dragon for us — his signature is engraved on the back, and the automaton moves with 16 separate pieces. This is live art. With a lot of pleasure, we are always ready to collaborate with artists. Our concept is to redefine painting, engraving, or sculpture so collectors can travel with their piece of art.”

 

It’s a philosophy that aligns perfectly with India’s own artistic traditions — a fertile ground for future collaborations.

An Industry of Emotion, Not Marketing

In a world where marketing often overshadows craft, Alain Delamuraz insists on a more human-centered approach: “In our case, we don’t do advertising anymore. Our marketing concept is to know the people and to interact with them. Automata are about surprise and emotion — you don’t know what will happen, then suddenly something moves and you say ‘wow.’ That surprise is the emotion. We are not only a brand, not only a watchmaker. We are an emotion.”

Conclusion

Alain Delamuraz’s vision for Jaquet Droz is clear: a brand rooted in disruption, guided by emotion, and deeply connected to its collectors. Whether through métiers d’art, automata, or bespoke creations inspired by India, Jaquet Droz continues to prove that true luxury lies not only in what is made, but in the human connection it creates.