Tag Archives: Swiss Haute Horlogerie

Speake Marin Tourbillon Royal Blue: Five-Piece Limited Edition

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Speake Marin presents the Tourbillon Royal Blue, a new interpretation of its emblematic Openworked collection, combining the Maison’s Piccadilly case with an intensely coloured Royal Blue mechanical architecture.

The timepiece brings together a 42 mm 5N red-gold case, an openworked construction and the automatic manufacture SMA05 calibre. Limited to just five pieces, the Tourbillon Royal Blue offers a highly exclusive expression of Speake Marin’s approach to Anglo-Swiss watchmaking.

Mechanics Takes Centre Stage

The Openworked collection places the movement at the heart of the watch’s aesthetic. Bridges, openings and indications unfold across several levels, creating a fully exposed mechanical construction.

The Tourbillon Royal Blue continues this approach through the iconic Piccadilly case. Redesigned in 2017 by Eric Giroud, the case reinterprets Speake Marin’s historic design codes through more fluid and sculptural lines.

Royal Blue as the Defining Thread

Royal Blue runs throughout the Tourbillon Royal Blue, covering the openworked dial, flange and selected movement components.

The intense shade, inspired by Pantone 287 C, contrasts with the warmth of the 5N red gold and the anthracite-grey rhodium plating. Subtle 4N details add another layer of contrast, while a red accent on the power-reserve display provides a graphic highlight.

The Piccadilly Case in 5N Red Gold

The Tourbillon Royal Blue is housed in Speake Marin’s 42 mm Piccadilly case, crafted in 5N red gold.

Its sculptural lines frame the openworked movement, revealing the flying tourbillon, power-reserve indication and finishing of the SMA05 calibre.

A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment protects the dial, while a sapphire crystal caseback reveals the movement from the reverse.

The flared and fluted crown is crafted in 5N red gold and set with a blue sapphire. The caseback carries the Speake Marin and One & Two signatures together with the inscription “Limited Edition of 5.”

The watch is fitted with a Royal Blue ostrich leather strap, hand-stitched with gold-coloured thread, with a light-brown calfskin lining and 5N red-gold pin buckle.

A Dial Conceived as Architecture in Motion

The fully openworked dial exposes the mechanics beneath and is structured around two principal focal points: the flying tourbillon at 1:30 and the power-reserve indication at 7:30.

The upper plate receives a Royal Blue PVD treatment and is intentionally left unlacquered to preserve the depth and intensity of the colour. Straight-grained lines extend from the tourbillon towards the power-reserve display.

Microblasted recesses contrast with satin-brushed surfaces, while diamond-cut edges and opaline-finished bevels catch the light. Glossy light-grey details in Pantone 420 C contribute to legibility, while a ruby within the power-reserve display introduces a subtle red accent.

The surrounding circular-grained brass flange is also finished in Royal Blue PVD. Twelve Pantone 420 C light-grey Super-LumiNova hour markers emit blue luminescence, while the 4N PVD-treated hour and minute hands feature light-grey lacquer and blue luminescence.

The SMA05 Calibre

At the heart of the Tourbillon Royal Blue is the automatic manufacture SMA05 calibre, equipped with a fully integrated micro-rotor and a flying tourbillon completing one rotation every 60 seconds.

The movement provides a 72-hour power reserve and operates at 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour. It comprises 290 components, including 63 components for the tourbillon cage.

The bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève and finished in anthracite-grey rhodium plating, while the central bridge features a circular-grained 4N gold-tone PVD coating.

The tungsten oscillating weight and barrel drum are rhodium-plated. The tourbillon is topped by Speake Marin’s signature Topping Tool bridge, polished and finished in 4N.

The barrel carries laser-engraved One & Two, Openworked and Flying Tourbillon inscriptions, accompanied by striped decoration that continues onto the oscillating weight.

Speake Marin Tourbillon Royal Blue: Technical Specifications

Reference: 424211010

Movement

  • Automatic manufacture SMA05 calibre
  • Fully integrated tungsten micro-rotor
  • 60-second flying tourbillon at 1:30
  • Power-reserve indication at 7:30
  • 290 components, including 63 for the tourbillon cage
  • Frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600 vibrations per hour
  • Power reserve: minimum 72 hours
  • 33 jewels
  • Diameter: 34 mm
  • Thickness: 7.15 mm, excluding hands
  • Microblasted mainplate with Royal Blue PVD treatment
  • Central bridge with 4N PVD treatment
  • Signature Topping Tool tourbillon bridge
  • Laser-engraved barrel
  • Striped decoration continued onto the oscillating weight

Functions

  • Hours
  • Minutes
  • Seconds displayed on the tourbillon cage
  • Power-reserve indication

Case

  • Iconic Piccadilly case
  • 5N red gold
  • Diameter: 42 mm
  • Thickness: 12.35 mm
  • Flared and fluted 5N red-gold crown set with a blue sapphire
  • Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
  • Sapphire crystal caseback
  • “Limited Edition of 5” engraving
  • Water resistance: 3 ATM

Dial

  • Three-dimensional openworked dial finished in Royal Blue PVD
  • Straight-grained surfaces
  • Microblasted recesses
  • Diamond-cut edges
  • Circular-grained Royal Blue PVD flange
  • Twelve Pantone 420 C light-grey Super-LumiNova hour markers
  • 4N PVD-treated hands
  • Pantone 420 C light-grey lacquer
  • Blue luminescence
  • Glossy red Pantone 199 C detail on the power-reserve indication

Strap

  • Royal Blue ostrich leather
  • Hand-stitched with gold-coloured thread
  • Light-brown calfskin lining
  • 5N red-gold pin buckle

Edition & Price

Limited edition of 5 pieces

Franck Muller Curvex CX Grand Central Tourbillon Baguette

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The Curvex CX Grand Central Tourbillon is a spectacular collection, where the Tourbillon is in the spotlight, placed at the center of the timepiece. A marvel of modern horology, it reflects Franck Muller’s dedication to reimagining tradition through quiet innovation and refined design.

At its core lies a vision to bring the tourbillon out of the background and into the spotlight. Traditionally placed at six o’clock, it now commands the center of the dial with a striking presence. To achieve this transformation, Franck Muller’s engineers restructured the entire movement, developing a mechanism where the hour and minute hands orbit the tourbillon cage in a mesmerizing display of motion and symmetry.

This exceptional timepiece is enclosed in a Rose Gold case, measuring 36 mm in width and 58.1 mm in length, and adorned with hand-selected diamonds that flow effortlessly across its surface. The invisible setting across the dial and case enhances the sense of purity and refinement, revealing subtle brilliance only as light moves across it.

Inside beats the in-house MVT FM CX 36T-CTR movement, a self-winding mechanical caliber powered by an eccentric micro rotor. Rarely used in Franck Muller tourbillons, this refined engine offers a four-day power reserve and embodies the brand’s relentless pursuit of technical excellence.

The Curvex CX Grand Central Tourbillon is more than a timekeeper. It is an exploration of form, light, and movement, crafted with precision and elevated by subtle artistry.

With every glance, it offers something new to discover. Every detail is carefully considered, quietly luxurious, and deeply expressive of a timeless sophistication.

Integrated Strap

Instead of the traditional spring-bar technique, this strap is seamlessly integrated into the case using two unseen screws, creating a smooth transition between the strap and the case. The strap is further enhanced by meticulous stitching along its edges, contributing to both its durability and refined appearance. This thoughtful combination of finishes and craftsmanship ensures it is as comfortable to wear as it is captivating to behold.

Curvex CX Case

The Curvex CX is Franck Muller’s iconic tonneau shape, known for its flowing, harmonious curves that create a bold and elegant silhouette. This distinctive design represents the brand’s identity, defined by fluid contours that deliver a seamless visual appeal. The Curvex CX also features an inner bezel and an edge-to-edge sapphire crystal, adding a unique and refined touch to its contemporary aesthetic.

Baguette Invisible Setting

This stunning timepiece is entirely set with baguette-cut diamonds on the case and dial. Each gemstone is finely hand-set with the iconic invisible setting, this meticulous technique allows the diamonds to sparkle without interruption, hiding the prongs and creating an uninterrupted surface of light. This timepiece is a masterpiece of pure elegance, every aspect of its making is a testament to meticulous hand-setting and years of dedication to exceptional artistry.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5260/1455R-001: When the Aquanaut Becomes a Grand Complication

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For years, the Aquanaut has represented Patek Philippe’s contemporary spirit — modern, confident, and unmistakably relaxed. But with Reference 5260/1455R-001, that narrative shifts dramatically. This is not merely an Aquanaut elevated with gemstones. It is a Grand Complication disguised as high jewellery, quietly rewriting what the collection is capable of.

At first glance, it dazzles. Look closer, and it listens.

A New Identity for the Aquanaut

The Aquanaut Luce line has always leaned toward elegance, but this reference takes a decisive leap into haute horlogerie. For the first time, Patek Philippe integrates a minute repeater into the Aquanaut family, placing one of the manufacture’s most revered complications inside a design language.

The result is a watch that challenges convention: technically elite, visually extravagant, and conceptually unexpected.

Gem-Setting as Architecture, Not Decoration

The visual impact of the 5260/1455R-001 is immediate — yet its brilliance is far from superficial.

The 38.8 mm rose gold case, bracelet, and dial are entirely transformed through meticulous invisible-setting. Hundreds of baguette-cut sapphires in a full chromatic spectrum flow seamlessly across the bezel, caseband, dial, and bracelet, punctuated by precisely placed baguette diamonds. The stones are not applied as embellishment; they are engineered as structural elements, aligned with architectural precision.

This level of gem-setting is among the most demanding métiers in watchmaking — each stone individually cut, calibrated, and mounted without visible metal, ensuring uninterrupted color transitions and flawless symmetry.

Despite its jewellery status, the watch retains unmistakable Aquanaut geometry: rounded octagonal lines, integrated bracelet flow, and balanced proportions.

The Sound Beneath the Sparkle

Hidden beneath this kaleidoscope is the true heart of the watch: Patek Philippe’s self-winding minute repeater calibre R 27.

Minute repeaters represent one of the highest expressions of traditional watchmaking — translating time into sound through a complex choreography of racks, snails, hammers, and gongs. In the 5260/1455R-001, this acoustic complication is activated via a discreet slide in the caseband, preserving the watch’s elegant continuity.

Through the sapphire caseback, the movement reveals classic Patek Philippe finishing:
• Geneva striping
• Polished bevels
• Circular graining
• A 22K gold micro-rotor

Every component is finished to the standards demanded by the Patek Philippe Seal, ensuring both mechanical excellence and long-term reliability.

A Dial That Redefines Legibility

Despite the density of gemstones, the dial remains remarkably legible — a testament to thoughtful design rather than excess.

Diamond paving forms the base, while multi-colored sapphire hour markers subtly guide the eye. Rose-gold hands, delicately set with gems, glide effortlessly across the surface, allowing time to remain readable without disrupting the artistic composition.

This balance between function and ornament is rare — and difficult to execute at this level.

More Than a Watch, Less Than Jewellery — Exactly Where It Should Be

The Ref. 5260/1455R-001 occupies a unique space in Patek Philippe’s universe. It is not meant to replace traditional minute repeaters, nor does it seek to compete with classical complications housed in Calatrava or Grand Complication cases.

Instead, it expands the brand’s vocabulary.

This watch speaks to collectors who understand that modern haute horlogerie is no longer confined to restraint alone. It acknowledges that complexity can be expressive, that tradition can coexist with audacity, and that technical mastery does not need to whisper to be legitimate.

Why This Watch Matters

The importance of the 5260/1455R-001 lies not only in its price or rarity, but in what it represents:

  • A new chapter for the Aquanaut

  • A rare fusion of Grand Complication and haute joaillerie

  • Proof that Patek Philippe can innovate without abandoning its core values

It is a reminder that the most powerful luxury watches are not always the loudest — but sometimes, they literally chime.

EyesOnTime Perspective

In a world where gem-set watches often prioritize spectacle over substance, the Patek Philippe 5260/1455R-001 does the opposite. It earns its brilliance through craftsmanship, its presence through complexity, and its relevance through courage.

This is not an Aquanaut you wear casually.
This is an Aquanaut that changes the conversation.