Tag Archives: Luxury watchmaking

Blancpain brings back the vintage spirit of the Bathyscaphe with a 70th anniversary limited edition

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Born from the golden age of recreational diving, the Bathyscaphe embodies the typical skin diver codes through its balance of elegance and everyday wearability. Created in 1956 as the civilian counterpart to the Fifty Fathoms, the model bore a name that had already been registered in 1953 by Blancpain’s then-CEO and passionate diver, Jean-Jacques Fiechter, reflecting his early vision of creating a diving watch designed not only for professional use but also for enthusiasts. Seventy years after its creation, Blancpain celebrates this legacy with a reproduction of a landmark model from 1968. A timepiece that bridges the aesthetic design of the past with watchmaking excellence, this 300-piece limited edition pays tribute to a defining chapter in the evolution of the diver’s watch.

The Skin Diver Style: A New Relationship with the Underwater World

During the 1950s and 1960s,a new generation of watches emerged alongside the growing popularity of recreational diving: the skin diver. More than purely technical instruments, these watches reflected a new relationship with the underwater world, one shaped by leisure, enjoyment, and a growing fascination with this emerging lifestyle. They captured the spirit of a time when diving became not only a professional activity, but also a source of personal adventure. Characterized by more compact proportions, clean lines, and a refined aesthetic, skin diver watches combined essential diving features with a more understated and daily- wear design.

Emerging from that philosophy, the Bathyscaphe was created in 1956 – despite the name having already been registered in 1953 – by Jean-Jacques Fiechter, then CEO of Blancpain and creator of the Fifty Fathoms, bringing Blancpain’s pioneering diving expertise into
a civilian expression designed for everyday wear.

The Bathyscaphe: The Diver Legacy

The name “Bathyscaphe” refers to the pioneering deep-sea exploration vessel conceived by Swiss scientist Auguste Piccard in the 1940s. Designed to reach the greatest depths of the ocean, the Bathyscaphe represented a major milestone in humanity’s exploration of the underwater world, an achievement that resonated with Jean-Jacques Fiechter’s own passion for diving and exploration.

While the Fifty Fathoms, introduced in 1953, was developed as a professional diving instrument for military forces, professional divers, and underwater specialists, the Bathyscaphe offered an everyday interpretation of the same heritage yet preserving the essential features of the diver’s watch. The distinction between the two models was particularly evident through their proportions. Measuring slightly over 41 mm in diameter, the original Fifty Fathoms was created to be a robust professional instrument. With a more compact 35 mm case, the first Bathyscaphe adopted a slimmer profile, reflecting a more civilian style while maintaining the reliability expected from a true diver’s watch. Over seven decades, the Bathyscaphe has evolved through various interpretations but has always remained faithful to its original identity.

The Spirit of 1968, Reborn

For the model’s 70th anniversary, Blancpain turns to one of the most emblematic expressions of the Bathyscaphe’s history with a watch from 1968. This timepiece was selected for the way it embodied the collection’s defining qualities: balanced proportions, functionality, and understated elegance. Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, 1968

Staying as close as possible to this iteration, Blancpain translated the anniversary piece through contem- porary watchmaking standards. The new edition retains the original 37.40 mm diameter and stainless- steel construction, but its case was specifically developed around the movement to achieve the desired proportions and ergonomics. The remarkable diameter-to-thickness ratio, defined by a slender case middle, contributes to the watch’s harmonious profile on the wrist. The polished finishing, curved surfaces, and carefully shaped lugs enhance its refined aesthetics.

The bezel continues this dialogue between heritage and innovation. Made of steel with a ceramic insert and lacquered numerals – replacing the original black hesalite material – it reinforce durability and legibility.

Every element has been considered to reinforce the aesthetic codes of the original design, from the mid-20th century Blancpain logo to the baton hands and indexes enhanced by vintage-coloured Super-LumiNova®, which recalls the warm tones of the luminous materials used in the past. The hand- stitched chocolate calf leather strap further drives this heritage-inspired spirit, developing a natural patina over time.

The result is a faithful contemporary Bathyscaphe reproduction carrying the unmistakable character of its 1968 inspiration.

Vintage Soul, Contemporary Performance

Beneath its vintage-inspired exterior, this anniversary edition reveals the expertise of Blancpain’s contemporary watchmaking. The Manufacture calibre 1150 was selected to equip this timepiece, offering a combination of reliability, precision, and exceptional autonomy with a 100-hour power reserve.

Its silicon hairspring provides antimagnetic properties, contributing to the movement’s stability and long- term performance.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the movement showcases the meticulous Haute Horlogerie finishing. Inspired by the design of that of the original Fifty Fathoms, its open worked 18K gold oscillating weight highlights the beauty of the mechanical architecture. Unlike the 1968 inspiration piece, which featured a closed case back, this new interpretation allows the movement to become part of the experience of ownership, emphasizing the daily- wear DNA of the piece. This choice reflects Blancpain’s desire to offer not only a connection to the past, but also a direct appreciation of the watchmaking expertise behind the timepiece.

Faithful to the standards of the Fifty Fathoms collection, the Bathyscaphe remains water-resistant to 30 bar. Limited to 300 individually numbered pieces, each delivered in a PeliTM case, this anniversary edition celebrates a 70-year-old legacy by combining contemporary reliability with the enduring character of a historic model. ©Tim Vaux Photography

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe
Ref. 5903 1110 63A

Movement: Blancpain Manufacture Calibre 1150
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 100 hours (~4 days)
Dimensions: 26.20 × 3.25 mm
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Hairspring: Silicon
Jewels: 28
Components: 210
Case: Stainless steel
Glass & back: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 bar (300 metres)
Diameter: 37.40 mm
Thickness: 12.30 mm
Lug-to-lug: 46.50 mm
Lug width: 18 mm
Dial: Sunburst meteor grey
Hands: Baton shape, with vintage-colour
Super-LumiNova®
Indexes: Baton shape, 18K white gold with vintage-colour Super-LumiNova®
Strap: Chocolate calf leather
Clasp: Pin buckle
Limited Edition: 300 pieces
Warranty: 5 years

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton — A Masterpiece of Transparency and Craftsmanship

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In an era where high horology increasingly celebrates both tradition and innovation, Daniel Roth has unveiled a spectacular new expression of its iconic Extra Plat model — the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. This latest release showcases the brand’s commitment to refined aesthetics, masterful finishing, and structural ingenuity, taking watchmaking artistry to new heights.

A Fresh Interpretation of a Classic

The Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton reimagines Daniel Roth’s signature double-ellipse silhouette through a skeletal lens, offering an unobstructed view of the meticulously finished movement inside. Unlike its closed-dial predecessors, this model embraces transparency — revealing the heart of the watch: the new Calibre DR002SR.

Rather than simply removing material for effect, the watch’s open architecture was conceived with purpose. The bridges and plates have been reshaped and skeletonised to maximize visibility while preserving structural integrity. This balance between form and function underscores Daniel Roth’s modern approach to haute horlogerie.

Movement — The Soul in Full View

At the core of this piece, the DR002SR movement is more than just a technical engine — it’s a showcase of artisanal craftsmanship. Developed and assembled entirely in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the calibre features:

  • Manual winding, emphasizing tactile interaction and horological purity.

  • A free-sprung balance beating at 4 Hz and a 65-hour power reserve — impressive performance for such a refined movement.

  • 141 components and 21 jewels, with bridges and mainplate reimagined in 18k 5N rose gold for both beauty and enduring quality.

The extensive hand-finishing — from internal anglage to polished countersinks and black-polished steel elements — is not just decoration but a testament to the skill of the master watchmakers behind the piece.

Design — Elegance Through Minimalism

The Extra Plat Skeleton’s design remains true to Daniel Roth’s distinctive DNA: the elegant double-ellipse case shape, now measuring 38.6 mm x 35.5 mm with a remarkably thin profile of 6.9 mm. Crafted from 18k 5N rose gold, the case envelops the movement like a precious frame — warm, rich, and luminous.

With no dial distractions — no indexes, no numerals — the only visual anchors are the blued steel arrow-shaped hands, elegantly floating above the openwork movement. This pared-back design draws the viewer’s attention directly to the geometry and finish of the calibre, making every gesture of craftsmanship visible and appreciable.

The watch sits comfortably on a soft calfskin leather strap with a matching rose gold pin buckle, marrying sophistication with everyday wearability.

A Tribute to Watchmaking Tradition

Skeletonisation is more than an aesthetic choice — it’s a horological tradition that celebrates the mechanics of timekeeping. It requires acute technical understanding and artistic sensibility to maintain durability and readability while stripping away material. In the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton, this tradition is honored boldly and beautifully.

This new model not only reflects the evolution of Daniel Roth’s design language but also cements the brand’s status in contemporary haute horlogerie. By revealing the inner workings of the movement, it invites collectors and enthusiasts to witness mechanical brilliance in its most honest form.

Technical Snapshot

Case

Material: Rose gold 5N
Dimensions: 38.6m x 35.5mm
Thickness: 6.9mm
Water Resistance: 30m

Strap

Lug width – Material: 20mm – Calfskin leather

Calibre

DR002SR – Manufacture mechanical movement with manual winding developed and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton under the supervision of Master Watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.

Power Reserve – Frequency: ~65 hours – 4Hz
Dimensions: 31 x 28mm

Final Thoughts

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton is a celebration of transparency — not just in form, but in philosophy. By revealing the movement’s soul and honoring the craft of traditional watchmaking, it stands as a compelling piece for collectors who value both technical mastery and timeless design.

Whether you’re a seasoned enthusiast or a newcomer to haute horology, this watch exemplifies what makes skeletonised timepieces so enduringly captivating: the beauty of time, stripped down to its essence.

Petite Heure Minute Red Gold – Japanese Garden

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Jaquet Droz and a collector have joined forces to bring to life a creation that represents a landmark in the history of artistic craftsmanship: the Petite Heure Minute Red Gold – Japanese Garden. It consists of 25 appliques, most of which are made from carved and engraved mother-of-pearl. These are affixed to a dial which is itself made entirely from mother-of-pearl. The work of a precision goldsmith, executed by hand to within a tenth of a millimetre. A unique piece and a synthesis of excellence.

A unique watch for a unique collector. Yet this one is something rather special; it is the embodiment of superlative craftsmanship. The Petite Heure Minute Red Gold – Japanese Garden combines multiple artisanal master strokes. At its heart, the mother-of-pearl is not merely the customary decoration applied to a gold dial: rather, it forms the dial itself, which is carved entirely from ultra-white mother-of-pearl sourced from the farthest reaches of the Pacific.

The composition it depicts has a distinctly dreamlike quality. It brings together all the elements of Japanese culture that foster serenity, harmony and inner peace. At the top of the dial stands a traditional temple. The brilliance of its execution lies not only in the extreme delicacy of its roof, its carved balconies and the perspective of its floors, but specifically in the three-dimensionality conjured by a subtle layer of semi-translucent grey paint. This depicts every shadow cast, allowing the eye to reconstruct the depth of the forms.

However, the temple does not merely appear in the background; it embodies it entirely, thanks to the 25 appliques positioned in front of it. On the left of the dial: reeds and water lilies. On the right: a cherry tree, a lantern. In the centre: a dance of koi carp. This is where we find the most exquisite applique of the entire scene: the reed stems emerging from the water are no more than 0.1 mm thick. Jaquet Droz had to devise an ingenious process to ensure that the stem at 5 o’clock could attach to the water lily petals on its left, all within a thickness of 0.1 mm.

Almost all of these elements are mother-of-pearl appliques, with a few exceptions – notably the cherry tree branches and the lantern frame, which are made from yellow gold. At the centre of the dial gleams a mother-of-pearl cabochon which, with an enigmatic touch of realism, reflects the river and its carp. Attention to detail has been taken to the extreme, with even the image projected onto its slightly curved surface faithfully reproduced. The process is reminiscent of that used by Vermeer in his Girl with a Pearl Earring.

A host of other details help to create additional volume and perspective. The hour and minute hands glide beneath the decoration, positioned to within a tenth of a millimetre. The carp swim beneath the water lilies, but their eyes shine with the brilliance of 0.5 mm diamonds so that they sparkle on the surface. The leaves floating on the surface of the river are applied as gold paillons over the ripples and pebbles. The glass box crystal that tops the red gold case gives a glimpse of what lies beneath the appliques. Here, even in this location visible only to the collector, the decoration still reveals itself to be hand-engraved. A refined and singular secret – just like the piece itself.

“Create your own. As unique as you are”