Tag Archives: Watch Collecting

Blancpain Lady B: A Mechanical Jewel Reimagining the Ladybird Legacy

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What happens when 70 years of watchmaking history is condensed into a 19mm mechanical jewel?

Blancpain answers with the Lady B, a distinctly contemporary interpretation of the idea that gave birth to the Ladybird collection in 1956.

Created under the leadership of Betty Fiechter, the first woman to lead a Swiss watch manufacture, the original Ladybird Bullet was built around an extraordinary ambition: create a remarkably small yet robust mechanical movement. Its R52/R55 calibre measured just 11.85mm in diameter and became the world’s smallest round mechanical movement produced in series, according to Blancpain’s historical account.

Seven decades later, Blancpain isn’t simply bringing that watch back.

It is rethinking the idea behind it.

From Ladybird Bullet to Lady B

The new Blancpain Lady B is explicitly described as a contemporary reinterpretation rather than a reissue of the 1956 Ladybird Bullet. Its design takes the original watch’s philosophy of miniaturisation and translates it into an entirely new architecture.

Its most immediately striking feature is its spherical case.

Measuring only 19mm in diameter, the case has a thickness of 13.20mm and a volume of just 2.9cm³. Rather than treating the watch as a flat object defined primarily by its diameter, Blancpain conceived Lady B in three dimensions.

The result is closer to a polished mechanical pebble or jewel than a conventional round wristwatch.

And that is precisely the point.

A Mechanical Heart in a Tiny Space

Inside the spherical case is Blancpain’s Manufacture Calibre 615, an automatic movement measuring 15.70mm in diameter and 3.90mm thick.

It contains 180 components and 29 rubies, operates at 3Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour, and delivers a 38-hour power reserve. Its plates are finished with Côtes de Genève, while a silicon balance spring is part of its evolution.

The movement’s compact architecture wasn’t simply placed inside an existing case.

The entire watch was developed around it.

Blancpain says the spherical case, sapphire crystal, polished rehaut, integrated strap passage and water resistance were developed in parallel to accommodate Calibre 615.

That makes the Lady B’s small dimensions more than an aesthetic exercise. They are the consequence of designing the watch around its mechanical core.

No Lugs. No Conventional Case Architecture.

Perhaps the most unusual aspect of Lady B is what it leaves out.

There are no traditional lugs.

Instead, the calf leather strap passes directly through an opening machined into the case. The passage measures just 10 × 1.6mm, and Blancpain describes the interior as micro-blasted so the leather can glide through it. The edges and knurling are finished by hand.

This creates a continuous visual relationship between the spherical case and the strap.

The watch doesn’t look as though a strap has been attached to it.

The strap appears to emerge from it.

Minimalism Is Doing the Heavy Lifting

The dial takes an equally restrained approach.

The warm beige opaline dial is identical across the stainless-steel and 18K red-gold versions. There is no gem-setting, allowing the dial surface, gold indices and reflections from the polished rehaut to define the visual character.

The applied stick indices are made from gold and measure only 1.82 × 0.39mm.

The hands remain deliberately simple, displaying only the hours and minutes.

This restraint is important because the case is already doing most of the visual talking. The polished spherical architecture creates changing reflections across its surface, while the clean dial prevents the watch from becoming visually busy.

Seven Straps, One Tiny Wrist Presence

The Lady B arrives on a double-tour calf leather strap, reinforcing its jewellery-like character.

There are seven colour options:

  • White
  • Beige
  • Mocha
  • Burgundy
  • Blue
  • Coral
  • Purple

The strap fits through the rear of the watch and can be changed easily.

The double-tour construction also changes how the 19mm case sits visually on the wrist. Instead of functioning simply as a tiny watch, the strap becomes an integral part of the design language.

Betty Fiechter: The Woman Behind the Original Vision

The Lady B story becomes considerably more interesting when you look back at Betty Fiechter.

Fiechter entered Blancpain’s workshop in Villeret as a 16-year-old apprentice in 1912. By 1933, she had become co-owner of the Manufacture, and she ultimately became the first woman to own and lead a Swiss watch manufacture.

Her contribution wasn’t limited to keeping the company operating through difficult economic and historical circumstances.

She also recognised the importance of mechanical watches for women.

Blancpain’s historical account notes that Fiechter believed women’s watches deserved the same ingenuity and mechanical integrity as other timepieces, making this area one of Blancpain’s defining strengths.

In 1956, the Ladybird emerged from this philosophy.

The Lady B now connects that history to Blancpain’s contemporary approach to mechanical miniaturisation.

The 1956 Technical Miracle

The original Ladybird Bullet’s R52/R55 calibre was only 11.85mm in diameter.

Its compact architecture incorporated a fifth wheel into the gear train and shock protection for the balance, allowing Blancpain to pursue extreme miniaturisation without abandoning robustness. The movement contained 133 individually machined components and operated at 3Hz.

The movement’s influence extended beyond Blancpain, with the press release noting that houses including Omega and Longines subsequently adopted it for their own creations. Its tiny footprint also enabled a wide variety of jewellery watches, bracelets, bangles, rings and pendants.

That history explains why the Ladybird is more than simply an old model in Blancpain’s archive.

Miniaturisation became a creative platform.

Lady B continues that idea in a radically different form.

Stainless Steel or 18K Red Gold?

Blancpain offers the Lady B in two case materials:

Stainless Steel

  • 19mm diameter
  • 13.20mm thickness
  • 30m water resistance
  • CHF 9,500

18K Red Gold

  • 19mm diameter
  • 13.20mm thickness
  • 30m water resistance
  • CHF 14,500

The watch is not a limited edition and is available through Blancpain boutiques and authorised retailers from 17 September 2026.

A New Chapter, Rather Than a Reissue

The Blancpain Lady B succeeds by resisting the obvious route.

It doesn’t attempt to reproduce the Ladybird Bullet line for line. Instead, it takes the central idea behind that watch, mechanical watchmaking on an extraordinarily small scale, and pushes it into a new design language.

A spherical 19mm case.

A tiny automatic movement.

An integrated double-tour strap.

A deliberately quiet opaline dial.

And a direct connection to Betty Fiechter and the Ladybird’s history.

Seventy years after the Ladybird first appeared, Blancpain’s smallest statement may also be one of its most conceptually interesting.

The Lady B is tiny in dimensions.

Its mechanical ambition is anything but.

Hublot Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue: A New Shade of Innovation in Sapphire Watchmaking

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Hublot continues to redefine transparent watchmaking with the launch of the limited-edition Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue, pairing its signature sapphire expertise with the impressive Meca-10 manufacture movement.

There are watches that tell time, and then there are watches that make a statement before you even glance at the dial. The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue belongs firmly in the latter category. Limited to just 100 pieces worldwide, this latest creation showcases everything Hublot has become synonymous with over the past decade: innovative materials, bold engineering and contemporary design.

Hublot’s Mastery of Sapphire Continues

Working with sapphire is no simple feat. Renowned for its exceptional hardness and transparency, sapphire is one of the most demanding materials in watchmaking. While many brands have experimented with it, Hublot has consistently expanded its possibilities, introducing coloured sapphire cases that combine technical complexity with striking aesthetics.

The Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue captures the calm brilliance of a summer sky through its fully polished 44mm sapphire crystal case. Its transparent construction allows light to flow through every angle of the watch, giving it a presence that constantly changes depending on its surroundings. Titanium H-shaped screws secure the sapphire bezel, while a structured sky-blue rubber strap completes the distinctive monochromatic look.

The Meca-10 Movement Takes Centre Stage

Inside the transparent case is one of Hublot’s most celebrated in-house calibres: the HUB1201 Meca-10.

Originally introduced in 2016, the Meca-10 broke away from conventional movement architecture. Rather than hiding the mechanics beneath the dial, Hublot designed the movement to become the visual centrepiece of the watch. Inspired by mechanical construction systems, its fully skeletonised architecture reveals every functional component.

The manually wound movement consists of 223 components, delivers an exceptional 10-day (240-hour) power reserve, and uses two parallel mainspring barrels to maintain consistent energy delivery. One of its most distinctive features is the innovative rack-and-pinion power reserve display that moves horizontally across the movement, reinforcing the industrial aesthetic that has become synonymous with the Meca-10 collection.

Transparency That Reveals Every Detail

The appeal of the Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue extends beyond its sapphire case. Its matte sky-blue skeleton dial, matching movement bridges and sapphire case-back ensure that the watch remains visually captivating from every angle.

Instead of concealing its mechanics, the watch celebrates them. Every gear, bridge and wheel becomes part of the overall design, creating a fascinating interplay between engineering and aesthetics. It is a reminder that modern haute horlogerie is as much about visual storytelling as it is about precision.

Built with Confidence

The Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue is more than an exercise in design. It also reflects Hublot’s confidence in its manufacturing capabilities.

Eligible models purchased from 1 January 2026 benefit from Hublot’s 5+5 warranty programme, providing a five-year standard warranty with the possibility of extending coverage to ten years through the Hublotista programme. It is among the most comprehensive warranty offerings in contemporary luxury watchmaking and reinforces the brand’s trust in its products.

Limited to Just 100 Pieces

Exclusivity remains central to the appeal of this release.

The Hublot Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue is limited to 100 pieces worldwide and will be available through selected Hublot boutiques, authorised retailers and the brand’s official online store. The watch is priced at USD 84,300, reflecting both the complexity of its sapphire construction and the sophistication of its in-house movement.

Final Thoughts

Few brands have embraced sapphire as confidently as Hublot. Over the years, the manufacture has transformed what was once considered an experimental material into one of its defining signatures. The Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue continues that journey, combining a transparent sky-blue sapphire case with the technically impressive Meca-10 movement in a package that is both futuristic and unmistakably Hublot.

For collectors who appreciate avant-garde watchmaking, architectural movements and limited-edition craftsmanship, this latest Big Bang demonstrates exactly why Hublot remains one of the industry’s most daring innovators.

GPHG Exhibition 2026 Mumbai: Ethos Brings Watchmaking’s Biggest Showcase to India

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India’s luxury watch journey reaches another defining milestone this September.

From 28 September to 1 October 2026, Mumbai will host the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Exhibition, presented by Ethos. Recognised globally as the “Oscars of Watchmaking,” the travelling exhibition brings together the year’s finest nominated timepieces, offering collectors, enthusiasts and industry professionals a rare opportunity to experience contemporary haute horlogerie up close before the winners are announced in Geneva.

The exhibition reflects India’s growing stature in the international watch industry and highlights the country’s rapidly expanding community of knowledgeable collectors. Over four days, visitors will have the opportunity to discover exceptional creations that showcase innovation, craftsmanship and mechanical excellence from some of the world’s most celebrated watchmakers.

A Rare Encounter with the World’s Finest Timepieces

Unlike the awards ceremony itself, the travelling GPHG Exhibition allows watch enthusiasts to experience the shortlisted watches firsthand. The Mumbai showcase will feature finalists across multiple award categories, ranging from complicated mechanical masterpieces and sports watches to artistic métiers d’art creations and groundbreaking independent watchmaking.

For many collectors, this is a unique chance to compare some of the year’s most significant horological creations side by side, all under one roof.

Why Mumbai Matters

India has steadily emerged as one of the most exciting luxury watch markets in the world. A new generation of collectors, increasing appreciation for independent watchmakers and growing demand for high-end Swiss timepieces have transformed the country into an important destination for global maisons.

Bringing the GPHG Exhibition to Mumbai is recognition of this momentum. It demonstrates the confidence that the international watch industry has in India’s collector community while creating a platform for enthusiasts to engage more deeply with contemporary watchmaking.

Ethos Continues to Shape India’s Watch Culture

As India’s leading luxury watch retailer, Ethos has consistently invested in building awareness around fine watchmaking through exhibitions, educational initiatives and partnerships with global brands.

Hosting the GPHG Exhibition further strengthens that commitment, giving Indian audiences direct access to watches that represent the very best of modern horology and reinforcing India’s place within the global watchmaking conversation.

A Must-Visit Event for Every Watch Enthusiast

Whether you’re a seasoned collector, an aspiring enthusiast or simply fascinated by mechanical craftsmanship, the GPHG Exhibition promises an extraordinary experience.

From 28 September to 1 October 2026, Mumbai becomes a destination where innovation, artistry and centuries of watchmaking tradition come together, offering a glimpse into the future of haute horlogerie.

Parmigiani Fleurier Carillon Tourbillon: A Four-Gong Minute Repeater Celebrating 30 Years of Independent Haute Horlogerie

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Thirty years after its founding, independent Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled one of its most ambitious and meaningful creations to date. The new Carillon Tourbillon is far more than an anniversary watch. It is a celebration of the Maison’s philosophy of restoration, transmission, and mechanical excellence, expressed through a remarkable combination of a four-gong minute repeater and a tourbillon.

Created to mark Parmigiani Fleurier’s 30th anniversary, this exceptional haute horlogerie timepiece is limited to just five examples worldwide. Entirely conceived, developed, assembled and finished within the Manufacture, the Carillon Tourbillon stands as a testament to the independent Swiss watch brand’s dedication to preserving traditional craftsmanship while advancing contemporary watchmaking.

A Legacy Rooted in Restoration

Few modern watchmakers can claim a foundation as unique as that of Parmigiani Fleurier. Before establishing the Maison in 1996, Michel Parmigiani built his reputation as one of Switzerland’s foremost restorers of historic timepieces, automata, clocks and mechanical masterpieces.

His approach to restoration was never driven by nostalgia. Instead, it was a process of understanding. Through decades of studying historical mechanisms, Michel Parmigiani developed a profound appreciation for the intelligence, architecture and artistry hidden within traditional watchmaking.

The Carillon Tourbillon is a direct reflection of this philosophy.

Its origins can be traced to an early nineteenth-century pocket watch created by Perrin Frères and preserved within the renowned Sandoz Collection. Restored by Parmigiani Fleurier in 2000, the historic timepiece became a source of inspiration for the Maison’s latest creation. Rather than replicating its design, Parmigiani Fleurier sought to reinterpret its acoustic architecture, mechanical ingenuity and distinctive serpentine gongs within a contemporary luxury watch.

The Art of Sounding Time

At the heart of the Parmigiani Fleurier Carillon Tourbillon lies one of watchmaking’s most revered complications: the minute repeater.

Historically, the carillon tradition originated in bell towers, where the sound of bells marked the passage of time for entire communities. The Carillon Tourbillon transforms that public experience into something deeply personal, allowing time to be heard on demand through an intricate mechanical symphony worn on the wrist.

Unlike conventional minute repeater watches that utilise two gongs, the Carillon Tourbillon employs an advanced four-gong system.

The chiming sequence consists of:

  • One low-pitched gong for the hours
  • One high-pitched gong for the minutes
  • Two additional gongs dedicated to the quarter hours

Together, these four gongs create a rich and distinctive four-note melody that gives the watch its unique acoustic signature.

The striking mechanism is regulated by an integrated flywheel governor that ensures a smooth and perfectly controlled cadence throughout the chiming sequence. This guarantees a fluid acoustic performance free from acceleration or slowing, preserving the purity of every note.

A Contemporary Haute Horlogerie Statement

While inspired by historical horology, the Carillon Tourbillon is unmistakably modern in its execution.

The 41.6mm case is crafted from 18-carat white gold and features vertical gadroons inspired by classical architecture, a recurring design element deeply associated with Michel Parmigiani’s aesthetic vision.

A sapphire crystal box construction allows an unobstructed view of the dial-side mechanics, including the visible hammers responsible for striking the gongs. Their presence transforms the watch into a dynamic performance, revealing the exact moment when mechanical energy is converted into sound.

One of the watch’s most distinctive visual features is its four serpentine gongs, which elegantly wrap around the dial. Inspired directly by the Perrin Frères pocket watch, these flowing curves create a powerful visual identity while simultaneously serving an essential acoustic function.

In the Carillon Tourbillon, acoustics become design.

The Beauty of Morning Blue

The dial itself represents another showcase of Parmigiani Fleurier’s artisanal expertise.

Crafted from 18-carat white gold, the dial features a hand-hammered finish and is presented in a subtle Morning Blue hue that shifts between silver and azure depending on the light.

The textured surface reflects the Maison’s belief in the value of the human hand. No two surfaces are exactly alike, ensuring each watch possesses its own individual character.

This hand-hammered finish continues the design language introduced through Parmigiani Fleurier’s recent anniversary creations and reinforces the Maison’s commitment to traditional craftsmanship.

Calibre PF950: A High-Complication Masterpiece

Powering the watch is the manually wound Calibre PF950, an extraordinary manufacture movement designed specifically for the Carillon Tourbillon.

Comprising 456 components and 42 jewels, the movement integrates a minute repeater, a four-gong carillon striking mechanism and a 60-second tourbillon within a remarkably refined architecture.

The calibre operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz) and delivers a power reserve of at least ten days, an impressive achievement for a high-complication watch featuring a chiming mechanism.

To achieve this performance, Parmigiani Fleurier developed a sophisticated three-barrel system.

Two superimposed barrels provide power to the movement, while a dedicated third barrel is reserved exclusively for the striking mechanism. This third barrel is automatically rewound each time the repeater slide is activated, ensuring optimal energy delivery whenever the chiming function is engaged.

Among modern haute horlogerie creations, combining a tourbillon and a minute repeater within a movement offering such extended autonomy remains a significant technical achievement.

Hidden Complexity and Refined Finishing

In keeping with Parmigiani Fleurier’s philosophy of restrained elegance, much of the watch’s complexity remains discreetly hidden from immediate view.

The tourbillon and power reserve indicator are positioned on the reverse side of the watch, preserving the balance and clarity of the dial while rewarding closer inspection.

The movement itself serves as a canvas for exceptional hand-finishing. Its components are decorated with the Maison’s distinctive mezzo vibrato engraving, a technique previously explored on the Armoriale Objet d’Art collection.

Executed entirely by hand, the decoration creates a visual rhythm across the movement’s surfaces, echoing the acoustic resonance generated by the chiming mechanism.

The calibre’s bridges and components are further enhanced through hand-bevelling and hand-graining, underscoring the artisanal nature of the piece.

A Case Designed for Resonance

In a minute repeater watch, the case plays a crucial role in shaping the quality of sound.

Parmigiani Fleurier selected white gold not only for its luxurious appearance but also for its controlled acoustic properties. The material contributes to the transmission, clarity and resonance of the chiming sequence, ensuring harmony between the movement and its surrounding architecture.

Integrated into the case band is the repeater slide, which activates the chiming mechanism through a deliberate and tactile gesture. The interaction creates a ceremonial connection between wearer and watch, reinforcing the emotional dimension of mechanical horology.

Why the Parmigiani Fleurier Carillon Tourbillon Matters to Collectors

For collectors of independent haute horlogerie, the Carillon Tourbillon represents far more than a limited-edition luxury watch.

It embodies everything that has defined Parmigiani Fleurier over the past three decades: restoration as a source of innovation, craftsmanship as a form of cultural transmission, and mechanical complexity pursued in the service of beauty rather than spectacle.

With only five examples produced, the Carillon Tourbillon is among the rarest watches ever created by the Manufacture. Its exclusivity is not driven by marketing, but by the extraordinary level of expertise, hand-finishing and acoustic tuning required to bring each piece to life.

Thirty Years of Independent Watchmaking Excellence

The Carillon Tourbillon serves as a fitting tribute to Parmigiani Fleurier’s first thirty years.

Combining a four-gong minute repeater, a tourbillon, a hand-hammered Morning Blue dial and a movement engineered for exceptional acoustic performance, it captures the essence of the Maison’s identity.

More importantly, it demonstrates that true innovation in Swiss watchmaking does not require abandoning tradition. Instead, the Carillon Tourbillon proves that the most compelling creations emerge when history, craftsmanship and contemporary engineering work in harmony.

For Parmigiani Fleurier, the sound of thirty years is not merely heard. It resonates.

Technical Specifications

Parmigiani Fleurier Carillon Tourbillon White Gold Anniversaire

Reference: PFH996-2010001-300181

Functions

  • Hours
  • Minutes
  • Minute Repeater
  • Tourbillon

Movement

Calibre PF950

  • Manual-winding manufacture movement
  • Four-gong carillon minute repeater
  • Flywheel governor
  • 60-second tourbillon
  • 456 components
  • 42 jewels
  • Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
  • Power reserve: At least 10 days

Case

  • 18ct white gold
  • Diameter: 41.6mm
  • Thickness: 12.6mm
  • Anti-reflective sapphire crystal front and back
  • Water resistance: 10 metres

Dial

  • Morning Blue
  • 18ct white gold
  • Hand-hammered finish
  • Rhodium-plated gold appliqué indices

Strap

  • Akoya Grey hand-stitched alligator leather strap
  • 18ct white gold pin buckle

Availability

Limited to five pieces worldwide

Zenith G.F.J. Bloodstone Edition Revives the Legendary Calibre 135 in Yellow Gold

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Few movements have left a mark on watchmaking quite like Zenith’s Calibre 135. Revered by collectors and historians alike, it remains one of the most successful chronometer movements ever created. Now, Zenith continues that story with a striking new interpretation of the G.F.J., pairing the modern Calibre 135 with a distinctive bloodstone dial and an elegant yellow-gold case.

Limited to just 161 pieces, the latest G.F.J. is more than a new aesthetic variation. It reinforces the collection’s role as the permanent home of a movement that helped define Zenith’s reputation for precision.

A Movement That Defined an Era

Zenith’s pursuit of chronometric excellence dates back to the late nineteenth century. Over the decades, the manufacture accumulated an unmatched 2,333 chronometry prizes, establishing itself as one of the most accomplished names in precision watchmaking.

At the centre of that success was the Calibre 135.

Produced from 1949 to 1962, the movement was developed specifically for observatory timing competitions. Its competition-specification version, known as the 135-O, earned an extraordinary 235 chronometry awards, including five consecutive first-place victories at the Neuchâtel Observatory between 1950 and 1954, a record that remains unbeaten.

When Zenith introduced the G.F.J. collection in 2025, named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot, it provided a contemporary platform for the rebirth of this historic movement. The collection’s debut was recognised with the Chronometry Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2025.

Re-Engineering the Calibre 135 for Modern Watchmaking

Rather than simply recreating a vintage movement, Zenith chose to re-engineer the Calibre 135 for contemporary use while preserving the defining characteristics that made it famous.

The hand-wound calibre retains its original 30mm diameter, oversized balance wheel and leisurely frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour. At the same time, it incorporates modern technical improvements designed to enhance reliability and performance.

The movement now offers a 72-hour power reserve, an optimised gear train, a large balance wheel with regulation screws and a traditional Breguet overcoil hairspring. A stop-seconds mechanism allows precise time setting, while each movement is regulated to an impressive accuracy of ±2 seconds per day and certified by COSC.

Visible through the sapphire caseback, the calibre features broad Côtes de Genève decoration, hand-finished bevels, a dark ruthenium finish and gold-coloured engravings that create an elegant contrast against the movement’s architecture.

The Beauty of Bloodstone

The defining feature of this edition is its remarkable dial.

Zenith maintains the G.F.J.’s signature three-part construction while introducing a centre section crafted from bloodstone, a variety of jasper known for its deep green appearance and naturally occurring red inclusions. Because every stone is unique, no two dials are exactly alike.

The centre section is framed by a finely executed guilloché outer ring inspired by the brick façade of the Zenith Manufacture in Le Locle, a subtle tribute to Georges Favre-Jacot’s vision of vertically integrated watchmaking.

At six o’clock sits an oversized small-seconds display crafted from mother-of-pearl, adding both visual contrast and depth.

Applied yellow-gold hour markers and faceted yellow-gold hands complete the composition, balancing warmth, texture and refinement.

Vintage Proportions with Contemporary Elegance

The G.F.J. Bloodstone Edition is housed in an 18-carat yellow-gold case measuring 39.15mm in diameter and 10.5mm in thickness.

Its stepped bezel, curved lugs and slender profile draw inspiration from mid-century chronometers, while the warm glow of yellow gold gives the watch a distinctly contemporary presence.

The proportions feel particularly well judged, offering vintage elegance without sacrificing modern wearability.

Limited to 161 Pieces

Zenith will produce only 161 examples of the G.F.J. Bloodstone Edition worldwide.

The watch is delivered with three strap options: a beige nubuck alligator strap, a green alligator strap and a black calfskin strap, each fitted with an 18-carat yellow-gold pin buckle. Collectors can also opt for an 18-carat yellow-gold bracelet equipped with a double folding clasp.

G.F.J.
Reference: 30.1865.0135/56.C216

Key points: Rebirth of the Legendary calibre 135. COSC-certified movement. Breguet Hairspring.
Stop-second mechanism. Manual winding. Limited to 161.
Movement: Calibre 135
Frequency: 18,000 VpH (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 72 hours
Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Small seconds at 6 o’clock.
Finishes: Côtes de Genève with Ruthenium finishing
Material: 18-ct yellow gold
Water resistance: 5 ATM
Case: 39.15mm / Thickness: 10.5 mm / Lug to lug: 45.75 mm
Dial: Signature brick guilloché on the outer ring with a jasper “bloodstone” centre and a mother-ofpearl small-seconds counter.
Hour markers: 18-ct yellow gold applied indices
Hands: 18-ct yellow gold faceted
Bracelet & Buckle: Delivered with a beige nubuck alligator leather strap, a green alligator leather strap and a black calfskin leather strap, fitted with a yellow gold pin buckle. Optional for purchase: 18-ct yellow gold bracelet with double folding clasp.

Final Thoughts

The Zenith G.F.J. Bloodstone Edition succeeds because it focuses on substance rather than nostalgia. The watch celebrates one of the most important chronometer movements ever produced while demonstrating how historical watchmaking achievements can remain relevant today.

The combination of the re-engineered Calibre 135, a unique bloodstone dial and an elegant yellow-gold case results in a watch that feels both rooted in history and entirely contemporary. For collectors who appreciate chronometric excellence and meaningful horological heritage, the latest G.F.J. represents one of Zenith’s most compelling releases of the year.

AWAKE Sơn Mài Guilloché Main Combines Hand Guilloché and Vietnamese Lacquer

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When Two Rare Crafts Meet on a Watch Dial

Independent watchmaker AWAKE has introduced the new Sơn Mài – Guilloché Main collection, a series that brings together two traditional decorative arts rarely seen at this level of execution in contemporary watchmaking: hand-operated guilloché engraving and Vietnamese Sơn Mài lacquer work.

The collection also marks the debut of a new 38 mm case for the brand, shifting AWAKE toward more compact and classically proportioned watchmaking while maintaining a distinctly modern design language. Limited to 200 pieces each across three dial variations, the collection focuses heavily on craftsmanship, texture, and light interaction rather than excessive complication or overt luxury cues.

A Rare Combination of Decorative Arts

What makes the collection notable is the combination of two highly specialized crafts executed by separate artisan workshops across Europe and Asia. AWAKE collaborates with the Renzetti family in Italy for the guilloché work and with master lacquer artisans in Vietnam for the Sơn Mài finishing.

The guilloché patterns are created entirely by hand using historic straight-line and rose-engine machines dating back to the 19th century. Unlike stamped or CNC-generated textures commonly seen today, these patterns rely entirely on manual control, with artisans simultaneously guiding both the dial and cutting tool to engrave hundreds of precise grooves into the metal surface.

Once engraved, the dials are sent to Hanoi where layers of natural Sơn Mài lacquer are applied and polished repeatedly to create depth, transparency, and shifting color gradients. Derived from the sap of the Rhus Verniciflua tree, the lacquer develops a distinctive visual richness that changes depending on lighting conditions.

The result is a dial construction that feels more architectural than decorative. Rather than sitting on top of the guilloché, the lacquer amplifies the engraved patterns underneath, creating a layered surface that changes character throughout the day.

Three Celestial-Inspired Dial Variations

The collection is offered in three executions, each inspired by different atmospheric and celestial phenomena.

Sunset

The “Sunset” model features a drapé-moiré guilloché pattern inspired by wave-like ocean movement. Around one hundred engraved grooves create flowing textures beneath layered lacquer shades of pink, violet, and blue. The final effect resembles fading light reflecting across water during sunset conditions.

Alba

The “Alba” edition takes inspiration from sunrise energy through a helical guilloché motif designed to evoke movement and momentum. Warm lacquer tones intensify the engraved geometry underneath, producing a more dynamic and radiant visual profile.

Borealis

The “Borealis” dial uses a radiant guilloché pattern combined with cool-toned lacquer gradients intended to mirror the shifting reflections of the Northern Lights. Under changing light, the dial develops strong tonal transitions and pronounced depth.

Rather than treating color as a simple aesthetic choice, AWAKE uses lacquer almost like a lens over the engraved metal surface, allowing the dial texture to evolve depending on viewing angle and ambient light.

A More Refined Case Design

The introduction of the 38 mm stainless steel case represents a significant design evolution for the brand. With a lug-to-lug measurement of 44.75 mm and a thickness of 11.5 mm including the crystal, the proportions position the watch firmly within the growing preference for smaller, more wearable case sizes.

The case combines polished and brushed surfaces with a concave bezel and softly curved lugs that reference mid-century watch design without feeling overtly vintage. A domed sapphire crystal enhances the dial presentation, while the redesigned screw-down crown now delivers 100 meters of water resistance.

AWAKE has also introduced a new handwritten logo and emblem for the collection, emphasizing the brand’s growing focus on artisanal craftsmanship and cultural storytelling. Thankfully, the branding remains understated and complements the watch rather than competing with it.

Night-Time Legibility Without Sacrificing Dial Integrity

One of the more thoughtful technical details in the collection is the luminous execution. The hands and indices use Super-LumiNova BGW9 combined with steel caps featuring brushed, polished, and engraved finishing.

This construction allows the lume to remain visually discreet during daylight while still delivering strong night-time visibility. More importantly, it preserves the visual purity of the dial, ensuring the lacquer and guilloché work remain the dominant elements.

La Joux-Perret G101 Movement

Powering the collection is the Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G101 automatic calibre with a 68-hour power reserve.

The movement features a custom tungsten rotor finished with alternating brushed, polished, and micro-blasted surfaces. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the calibre reinforces the collection’s balance between decorative craftsmanship and practical modern watchmaking.

While the watches are clearly dial-focused creations, the use of the G101 gives the collection strong everyday usability and reliability, rather than positioning it purely as an artistic object.

Jean Rousseau Straps and Wearability

The collection is paired with Alcantara straps produced by French strap specialist Jean Rousseau. Available in green, violet, or orange, the straps feature colored stitching, rubberized calfskin lining, curved quick-release spring bars, and AWAKE’s new Fitwell M1 micro-adjustable pin buckle with 3 mm adjustment increments.

It is a small but meaningful detail. Independent brands often focus so heavily on dial artistry that wearability becomes secondary. Here, the strap and clasp system appear designed with daily comfort in mind.

Technical Specifications

  • Case: 316L stainless steel
  • Diameter: 38 mm
  • Thickness: 11.5 mm including crystal
  • Lug-to-lug: 44.75 mm
  • Water resistance: 100 meters
  • Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire
  • Movement: La Joux-Perret G101 automatic
  • Power reserve: 68 hours
  • Limited edition: 200 pieces per dial variant
  • Strap: Jean Rousseau Alcantara with adjustable buckle

Final Thoughts

The Sơn Mài – Guilloché Main collection succeeds because it treats craftsmanship as the foundation of the watch rather than a decorative afterthought. Many modern artisan-focused releases rely heavily on storytelling, but here the techniques themselves shape the identity of the piece.

By combining hand-operated guilloché with traditional Vietnamese lacquer work, AWAKE has created a collection that feels culturally layered, technically interesting, and visually distinctive without becoming theatrical. The restrained 38 mm sizing and accessible pricing further strengthen the proposition, especially in a market where genuine métiers d’art execution is increasingly associated with far higher price points.

There is a quiet confidence to this collection. It does not attempt to overwhelm with complexity or spectacle. Instead, it focuses on texture, craftsmanship, proportion, and the human hand behind every detail. Rare qualities in modern watchmaking, where half the industry seems convinced another skeletonized tourbillon shaped like a lunar insect is what humanity truly needed.