Federico Ziviani on Reinventing Gerald Charles | EyesOnTime

In this exclusive EyesOnTime conversation, Federico Ziviani reflects on innovation, heritage, and how Gerald Charles is shaping the future of modern independent watchmaking.

Introduction: Federico Ziviani – Ceo Gerald Charles

Born and raised in Milan, Federico Ziviani has grown up surrounded by fine watchmaking. His father, Franco Ziviani, was a long-standing distributor for Audemars Piguet, introducing Federico early to the discipline, culture, and craftsmanship of haute horlogerie.

After earning a degree in Business Administration and Management from Bayes Business School, Federico completed a Master of Science in Computer Science at University College London, specialising in machine learning, artificial intelligence, and blockchain networks. This rare combination of heritage, business insight, and advanced technology now defines his leadership approach.

In 2019, he became General Manager of Gerald Charles, a Maison founded in 2000 by Gérald Charles Genta in close collaboration with the Ziviani family. In 2023, he was appointed CEO.

EyesOnTime met Federico Ziviani at Dubai Watch Week to discuss innovation, heritage, and the future of Gerald Charles.

Breaking Rules the Right Way: Reinventing Watchmaking Finishing

EyesOnTime: Gerald Genta was known for breaking rules. What rule in watchmaking you feel most tempted to break next as Gerald Charles?

Federico Ziviani:
We are very focused on reinventing modern watchmaking finishing. A strong example of this is Meta-Guilloché, a new type of dial finishing that evolves from traditional guilloché.

Classical guilloché is executed using historic machines. Meta-Guilloché, instead, is created through a contemporary process we developed together with engineers coming from biotechnology. Using this method, we engrave more than 200,000 micro-lines on a single dial, creating a light reflection that is up to ten times brighter than traditional guilloché.

We introduced this finishing on our anniversary Jumping Hour watch. It represents our broader philosophy: respecting legacy while bringing it forward through modern engineering. And there will be many more innovations like this in the future.

Which Watch Would Surprise Gérald Charles Genta Today?

EyesOnTime: If you could bring Genta into the atelier today and show him one recent Gerald Charles watch, which one do you think he would be most surprised by and why?

Federico Ziviani:
I believe he would be very happy to see the Masterlink.

This was the last integrated bracelet he designed, originally created as a unique piece in 2007 — fully gem-set and made with around 40 carats of gold. What we have done is reinterpret that vision into a steel version that is simpler to wear and perfectly suited to everyday life.

It remains true to his original idea while expressing it in a contemporary way.

Beyond Design: Correcting a Common Misconception

EyesOnTime: Gerald Charles operates in an interesting space, niche yet globally recognized. What is a misconception people still have about the brand that you wish you could correct once and for all?

Federico Ziviani:
Many people are immediately attracted by our design, which is very distinctive. What I would love them to appreciate even more is the depth of engineering and watchmaking behind our creations.

For us, engineering comes first. Design follows the technical architecture. A good example is the Masterlink: achieving a slim 2.7mm profile, a micro-rotor movement, 100 metres of water resistance, and excellent wearability requires advanced watchmaking expertise.

This savoir-faire is at the heart of Gerald Charles.

Form and Freedom: The Art of Wearing Time

EyesOnTime: As the brand scales up, how do you avoid creating too much demand culture where scarcity becomes the story instead of the watch?

Federico Ziviani:
As Gerald Charles grows, its approach remains deliberately grounded. The Maison has never pursued scarcity as a narrative device, nor demand as an end in itself. The focus is singular: creating the best watch possible.

And today, the definition of the best watch has evolved. Luxury is no longer weight or fragility — it is comfort, freedom, and confidence in motion. A Gerald Charles is designed to remain on the wrist whether one is swimming, travelling, playing sport, or attending a formal evening. It is a watch that adapts instinctively to life, rather than asking life to adapt to it.

Scarcity, therefore, is not engineered — it is inherent. The asymmetric architecture of the case and bracelet, the complexity of the finishing, and the hundreds of components within each movement require a level of hand craftsmanship that cannot be industrialised without compromise. Production is naturally limited by the standards the Maison refuses to dilute.

Growth at Gerald Charles is not about producing more watches. It is about preserving the soul of watchmaking where engineering, ergonomics, and design coexist — uncompromised.

 

Inside the Genta Archive: Building for the Next Century

EyesOnTime: You have access to a deep archive of Genta sketches. What’s the most unexpected idea that you’ve discovered in that archive, that the world hasn’t seen yet?

Federico Ziviani:
The archive is incredibly rich, with many ideas that have not yet been seen by the world. Visitors can already get a glimpse of this universe at our museum in Dubai, where they can discover different shapes beyond the Maestro that Gérald created.

In the sketches, there are fascinating complications, beautifully skeletonised bridges, and designs that remain highly relevant today. This patrimony gives us the foundation to build Gerald Charles for the next 100 years.

Evolving an Icon: The Maestro Case and Modern Complications

EyesOnTime: The Maestro case is already an icon. What design challenge keeps you up at night when trying to evolve something that collectors consider untouchable?

Federico Ziviani:
The product is always at the centre of our thinking. We constantly want to make our watches more interesting and more expressive from a watchmaking perspective.

We have a clear plan to introduce one new complication every year, and each of these will be a modern reinterpretation rather than a traditional execution. Our goal is that the next best Gerald Charles watch is always the one still to come.

The Geneva Atelier: More Than a Manufacture

EyesOnTime: You recently opened the Geneva Atelier with a museum-style space. Beyond watches, what emotion or idea do you want visitors to walk away with?

Federico Ziviani:
I want visitors to leave with a strong sense of family. The Atelier is designed like our home.

Our family created Gerald Charles together with Gérald Charles Genta in 2000, and my father had been close friends with him since the 1980s. Gerald created this brand out of pure passion, and passion is what we want people to feel when they visit us.

We put our soul into every watch — the soul of our watchmakers, of my father, of myself, and of our entire team. When visitors come to Geneva, they experience Swiss-Italian hospitality, great food, great conversations, and direct interaction with our watchmakers, who take the time to explain their craft in an open and authentic way.

Looking Ahead: What Must Never Change

EyesOnTime: When you imagine Gerald Charles 20 years from now, what is the one element you hope remains exactly the same and the one element you hope is radically different?

Federico Ziviani:
What will remain the same — not just for 20 years, but for the next 100 years — is our ambition to create the best possible watches and to keep innovating.

Innovation is how we continue to create value and meaning. We are very happy with what we are building today. Being at Dubai Watch Week with a standalone independent booth, a museum, a workshop, and spaces to educate collectors reflects what we believe in.

What we have at Gerald Charles is a treasure of immense historical and creative value, and our responsibility is to cultivate it for generations to come.

Closing Perspective

Through engineering-led innovation, deep respect for heritage, and a clear long-term vision, Gerald Charles continues to evolve as a modern independent Maison. Under Federico Ziviani’s leadership, the spirit of Gérald Charles Genta remains expressive, contemporary, and firmly focused on the future.

 

HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION BLACK MAGIC DUBAI WATCH WEEK

HUBLOT AND AHMED SEDDIQI & SONS UNVEIL TWO EXCLUSIVE SPECIAL EDITION TIMEPIECES IN COLLABORATION WITH CALLIGRAPHY ARTIST WISSAM SHAWKAT

In honour of the 6th biannual Dubai Watch Week exhibition, Hublot and partner Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons were thrilled to announce the release of two special edition Classic Fusion Black Magic Dubai Watch Week pieces, designed in collaboration with award-winning calligraphy artist Wissam Shawkat. Shawkat’s expertise in creating art that transcends boundaries and resonates with diverse audiences aligns perfectly with Hublot’s commitment to innovation and artistic expression.

We are excited to be a part of Dubai Watch Week, together with our partner Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons and releasing two exceptional special-edition timepieces. Following Hublot’s love for the world of art, we are pleased to reveal a special collaboration to resonate Hublot’s interpretation of Arabic heritage & culture – adding a great touch to the Art of Fusion. – RICARDO GUADALUPE HUBLOT CEO

The Hublot Classic Fusion collection is very well-liked among our Emirati clients, and we are very pleased to dedicate two special edition timepieces for them. We promised to provide excellent and culturally-relevant luxury alongside unique creativity; we are confident that these timepieces – perfect for men & women – will be enjoyed and sought after. – DAVID TEDESCHI HUBLOT REGIONAL DIRECTOR LATIN AMERICA, MIDDLE EAST & AFRICA

We are excited to commemorate these two extraordinary timepieces with Hublot, a symbol of our dedication to our clients, Hublot, and Dubai Watch Week. This collaboration is a tribute to our rich heritage and culture, representing unique artistic techniques in partnership with the incredibly talented artist, Wissam Shawkat. – MOHAMMED ABDULMAGIED SEDDIQI AHMED SEDDIQI & SONS, CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER

It is an honour to be collaborating with Hublot and to get the opportunity to showcase my take on Arabian heritage infused into luxury watchmaking. Inspired by my deeply rooted appreciation for our language and culture, it is a joyous experience to draw inspiration from various words & phrases and to design two exquisite timepieces. – WISSAM SHAWKAT

Paying homage to Arabian heritage, the two timepieces have been designed with sourced inspiration from deeply rooted passion for heritage and culture – drawing inspiration from various phrases and words from the Arabic language. Both timepieces feature exquisite calligraphy inside their dials, a true testament to the fusion of art with exceptional watchmaking. The calligraphy, meticulously created by the celebrated artist Wissam Shawkat, introduces vibrant and contrasting colors that beautifully complement the sleek black cases and dials. The calligraphy reads “Al Zaman” and “Al Waqt” – both words meaning time in Arabic – to symbolize the fusion between the watch brand, Arabian culture, and calligraphy. The rich, bright colours set against the black background create an eye-catching and distinctive aesthetic that embodies the spirit of Dubai.

The Classic Fusion Black Magic Dubai Watch Week sits in a 42-mm case with a matching Hublot black ceramic bezel featuring a unique twist in the dial. Highlighting Arabic calligraphy in rich bright orange, blue, green, and red, the mechanics of the HUB1110 self-winding movement and its 42-hour power reserve mark the time. The alligator strap with a black steel deployant buckle extenuates further the robust contrast between the flushed calligraphy and black ceramic. Encased is Wissam Shawkat’s stunning calligraphy, which weaves its way around the dial, reminiscent of the mesmerizing landscapes of Dubai’s dunes and urban skyline.

For those seeking a touch of opulence, the Classic Fusion Black Magic Diamonds Dubai Watch Week 38-mm elevates the experience with the addition of 36 black brilliant-cut diamonds set on the polished black anodized aluminium bezel. Wissam Shawkat’s calligraphy in this timepiece is a true work of art, with the sparkling diamonds accentuating every curve and stroke, showcasing the perfect synergy between horology and artistic expression.

These calligraphic timepieces are sure to strike their mark on Dubai Watch Week and on the wrist!

AHMED SEDDIQI & SONS

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, established in 1950, is the leading luxury watch and jewellery retailer in the UAE. With a customer centric approach at its core, the company offers an unmatched luxury retail experience with a curated collection of over 80 brands across over 50 locations. Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is recognised as a pioneer amongst retailers in the region, led by its commitment to service excellence, horology expertise, portfolio curation, and creating unique experiences.

WISSAM SHAWKAT – BIOGRAPHY

Wissam Shawkat is an Award-Winning Calligraphy artist and designer, specialized in letter forms, Born in 1974 in Basra (Iraq), he was first introduced to Arabic calligraphy at the age of 10, it was the form of four letters from the Arabic alphabet written across a school blackboard that started him on a journey that has shaped him both in early years and adulthood. Spurred on by supportive parents, he became his own tutor.

His teen summers were spent lettering for a local sign shop before he began studying for a degree in Civil Engineering at Basra University, graduating in 1996. The life as a Civil Engineer, though, was not Shawkat’s destiny and the point where his affinity for letterforms would wait no longer quickly came. In recent years, Shawkat has become known for a new calligraphic style, Al Wissam, which references several traditional scripts bringing them together with modern design.

He has received numerous prizes for his calligraphy and has participated as both an artist and committee member at multiple editions of the local and International Calligraphy Exhibitions.

He is based in Dubai, where he is engaged full-time as an artist, designer and Arabic typographer. His work is regularly featured in books on Arabic calligraphy and typography, His work is found in private collections, as well as museum collections around the world.

HUBLOT

Hublot is a Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1980 and based in Nyon. For its first ever timepiece, this fundamentally disruptive company combined gold with a rubber strap in a case with a design inspired by a ship’s porthole (hublot in French). Thus, the Art of Fusion was born, blending tradition, innovation, craftsmanship, worlds and talents. It became the brand’s aesthetic and technical signature.

This identity was strengthened in 2005 with the Big Bang, which attested to an unrivalled know-how in terms of complications, manufacture movements and state-of-the-art materials. Carbon, titanium, ceramic and sapphire have been developed on this model to technical extremes.

This ground-breaking, high-quality approach to watchmaking is summed up in its philosophy ‘Be First, Unique and Different.’ It gradually led to other collections with innovative designs: Classic Fusion, Spirit of Big Bang, Square Bang and Manufacture Pieces. These draw on high levels of craftsmanship, both in terms of the materials so dear to Hublot (such as Magic Gold, brightly-coloured ceramics and sapphires) and its manufacture movements (Unico chronograph, Meca-10 and large complications such as the Tourbillon, the Cathedral Minute Repeater and the specific Manufacture Pieces movements).

Hublot’s world extends to powerful partnerships including football. ‘Hublot Loves Football’ has become the slogan at the world’s biggest sporting events (such as the FIFA World CupTM, Premier League, UEFA Champions League, UEFA EUROTM) and through its ambassadors. This love of football continues in art, design, music, sport, fine dining and sailing. Lastly, Hublot’s implication in joint environmental projects with SORAI and Polar Pod reflects its concern for the issues of the day.

Almost 130 boutiques around the world share Hublot’s fervour and values, alongside the Hublot.com ecommerce site.