STARMAN: Extraterrestrial life

“Imagine a watch that shelters the first traces of life ever discovered in the cosmos. It’s a silent messenger, a guardian of the stars, and it was predestined to be called STARMAN.

Among the treasures of my personal collection are meteorites that have fascinating stories. One in particular, the Jbilet Winselwan, is noted for the presence of amino acids, molecules that are considered the building blocks of life itself. I was fascinated by these traces of life in space, so this year I decided to incorporate a fragment of that meteorite in a timepiece with a name that came quite naturally: STARMAN. This watch, which is the product of some remarkable horological techniques, has many other secrets to reveal…

Jean-Marie Schaller, Owner and Creative Director

The earliest traces of life from the cosmos: Jbilet Winselwan

A fragment of the Jbilet Winselwan meteorite majestically dominates the upper part of the STARMAN’s dial and competes visually with the tourbillon. This beautiful black stone, spangled with little brown dots, was discovered in the western Sahara Desert. It bears amino acids and is thus a silent witness to the first sparks of life spread throughout the cosmos.

The STARMAN dial:  a highly complex construction

The STARMAN’s dial is a genuine feat of artistic and technical prowess. Let’s begin with the base cut from the Gibeon meteorite, which fell to earth in prehistoric times and is famous for its emblematic Widmanstätten pattern. The fragment was dyed in a deep blue using an intricate – and secret –process. A second disc made of sapphire crystal features a map of the stars. In the foreground are the constellations carefully painted by hand using a luminescent material. They appear on the backdrop of the map’s longitudinal and latitudinal lines.

At night, the STARMAN reveals a magnificent stellar panorama, creating an appearance of depth that draws us into the immensity of the universe itself. This nightly display is enhanced by the vibrant blue hands and indexes that provide a touch of technical elegance to this exceptional timepiece.

The solar map and its riddle

Turn the STARMAN around, you will find a fascinating chart of the solar system. The planets, some of which only measure two millimetres in diameter, have been meticulously painted by hand and placed on a grid that seems to float over a star-lit sky.

The ultimate secret, however, is this: The planets have been precisely positioned as they appeared on March 21, 2013, when the world of watchmaking was stunned by an amazing revelation:  Louis Moinet was the inventor of the chronograph. The public event was held at the Neuchâtel observatory, where Jean-Marie Schaller unveiled the famous compteur de tierces, which had been built by the great French watchmaker in 1816.

The art of horology

The STARMAN defies gravity in a riveting manner thanks to its flying tourbillon in an off-centre cage. The hand-wound movement is equipped with two barrels in parallel. The system, called “volte face,” has one of the barrels turned upside-down or head-to-tail, so they deliver their energy simultaneously, producing a power reserve of ninety-six hours.

It comes in an 18-carat gold case with a diameter of 47.4 millimetres. Its architecture is opulent and complex, mixing brushed and polished surfaces and a stepped bezel that gives it a unique character.

The STARMAN is available in two editions limited to twelve pieces each, one in 18-carat red gold, the other in 18-carat grey gold.

In creating this timepiece, Jean-Marie Schaller delved into the mysteries of the cosmos. It’s a spirited homage to Louis Moinet, a man whose spirit of innovation and exploration is destined to continue resonating into the future.

 

Technical specifications

STARMAN WATCH
Limited edition: 12 pieces (red gold) and 12 pieces (white gold)

CASE
Material: 18K red gold 5N or 18K white gold
Diameter: 47.4 mm
Water-resistance: 30 m

DIAL AND HANDS
Dial: Complex multi-layered dial including:
Gibeon meteorite tinted blue
Sapphire disc with hand-painted stars with luminescent material
Jbilet Winselwan meteorite
Hands: Faceted and skeletonized, with luminescent material

MOVEMENT
Functions: Hours and minutes
Complication: Flying tourbillon
Type: Manual winding, double spring barrel
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Jewels: 26
Power reserve: 96 hours

 

 

 

Louis Moinet unveils FUEGO NUEVO: Sun’s Rebirth

This timepiece recalls the feast of the New Fire (Fuego Nuevo), a ritual that marked the rebirth of the sun and the renewal of time cycles, symbolised by the Piedra del Sol, the Sun Stone, one of the most emblematic works of Aztec art.

For the FUEGO NUEVO, the engravings on the Piedra del Sol have been reinterpreted on an ancient meteorite, reasserting the powerful connection between cosmos and the passage of time in an especially mesmerising manner.

“I have always been fascinated by ancient civilisations, especially Mesoamerican cultures and their very advanced astronomical knowledge. They saw the cosmos as more than just a collection of stars but also as a great symbol of life’s eternal cycles.
To reproduce this vision on the FUEGO NUEVO, I opted the Muonionalusta meteorite as a backdrop and laser engraving as the technique to reproduce the Aztec Sun Stone. As for the mechanics, the flying tourbillon was the natural choice, because its rotations reminded me of the constant renewal of time and infinity.” – Jean-Marie Schaller, Owner and Creative Director

FUEGO NUEVO: The Sun Stone times the “New Fire”

The Piedra del Sol is a monumental sculpture of Aztec civilisation. Carved during the reign of Emperor Axayacatl, it was created to commemorate the Festival of the New Fire in 1479. This sacred ritual, celebrated at the end of each 52-year cycle, marked the rebirth of the sun and the perpetuation of the cosmic cycles that gave rhythm to Aztec life.

This giant disc, which measures 3.6 metres in diameter and weighs 24 tonnes, is carved out of a block of basaltic olivine lava. It is now on display at Mexico City’s National Museum of Anthropology, where its magical aura draws crowds of amazed visitors.

Ancient meteorite and technology combined

In homage to the Piedra del Sol, the FUEGO NUEVO dial is made of a disc cut from one of the oldest meteorites discovered on Earth, the Muonionalusta. Formed 4.5 billion years ago, this meteorite reveals those famous, remarkable, geometric Widmanstätten patterns created inside the rock by millions of years of space travel.

This cosmic gem has been transformed into a work of art using modern technology. Producing the dial’s decoration required enormous precision, which could only be delivered by a laser with ultra-short pulses in the femtosecond range. It took a whopping 9,800 lines of sketches to reproduce the many references to Aztec cosmogony. Then, to add depth and relief, the dial features three levels. A ring of aventurine adds contrast around the base, giving the whole work an air of mystery. The 0.5-millimetre meteorite disc is engraved at two depths, namely 0.2 and 0.1 millimetres. The impressive three-dimensional dial perfectly represents the intersection of history, art and technology.

An horological star: the flying tourbillon

The FUEGO NUEVO is equipped with the LM135 caliber designed and developed by Louis Moinet in collaboration with Concepto. The mechanism includes a flying tourbillon with off-centre cage at six o’clock, which defies gravity in a striking and captivating way. Its hand-wound mechanism is equipped with a double barrel. This particular system, known as “volte face”, enables the two barrels to be arranged serially head to tail and therefore to discharge simultaneously, producing a 96-hour power reserve.

A noble case

This exceptional work of art is delicately framed by a 40 mm-diameter red-gold case with well-defined, flowing curves. The sapphire dome, a true feat of high-tech, reveals the fascinating details of the Sun Stone engraving. The openworked lugs perfectly underscore the integration of the bracelet.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

FUEGO NUEVO Unique piece

CASE
Material 18k red gold, grade 5 titanium (inner case)
Diameter 40.7 mm

DIAL & HANDS
Dial Laser-engraved Muonionalusta meteorite
Aventurine
Hands Hours, minutes: facetted and skeletonised, with luminescent material (SLN)

MOVEMENT
Functions Hours, minutes
Complication Flying tourbillon
Type Manual winding, double spring barrel
Oscillations 28,800 vibrations per hour
Jewels 26
Power reserve 96 hours
Water resistance 30 meters

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024

55 exhibiting Maisons, 3 days open to the Public

Taking place from April 9 to 15, 2024, the next Watches and Wonders Geneva promises to be a thrilling one, with an enhanced program at the Salon and In The City, specially designed for the general public. The focus will be on the visitor experience, as well as meaningful connection and interaction with the exhibiting Maisons. Several spaces have been expanded, allowing the event to host new brands and welcome the public over 3 full days!

Planning is already well underway for Watches and Wonders Geneva to ensure a unique week for the world of fine watchmaking, with a record 55 watch brands confirmed to take part in 2024. It’s a chance for industry professionals, connoisseurs and enthusiasts to come together, experience the latest products first-hand, engage and build meaningful connections. A new 7-day program has been designed with the Salon opening to the public from Saturday to Monday. Tickets can be purchased online from early February 2024, with student and weekend prices available.

The Watches and Wonders Geneva experience has been reimagined for 2024. It will now encompass two floors and feature new spaces for visitors to explore along with enhanced venues for meeting and discussion.

In addition to prestigious names such as Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe, IWC Schaffhausen and TAG Heuer, six new brands will be exhibiting for the first time, with Bremont on one side and Eberhard & Co, Gerald Charles, Nomos Glashütte, Norqain and Raymond Weil on the other. H. Moser & Cie. will also be making its return to the Carré des Horlogers.

The LAB, which serves as a window into the future of the industry, will take on a new dimension at the heart of the Salon, symbolically representing the importance of technological innovation within the manufactures. Here, startups, schools and engineers will reveal the secrets of tomorrow’s watchmaking. It’s an immersive, tactile and sensory experience for the curious and especially relevant to younger enthusiasts with career aspirations.

The heart of the City will be ticking even louder to the rhythm of watch movements, with a dynamic In The City program. A new Village Horloger will be created to showcase the wonders of fine watchmaking, its crafts, savoir-faire and talents. Major brands will also be joining the festivities with in-store activities featuring presentations and special exhibitions of their finest creations. The evening celebration – with its free concert – will be held on April 11 on the Quai Général-Guisan.

Watches and Wonders Geneva is aimed at all audiences and all ages, with a particular focus on younger generations who have shown a growing interest in the industry. The countdown begins as the whole city is getting ready to once again welcome the watchmaking event of the year!

Online ticketing early February 2024!

EXHIBITING MAISONS
A. LANGE & SÖHNE | ALPINA WATCHES | ANGELUS | ARNOLD & SON | BAUME & MERCIER | BEAUREGARD | BELL & ROSS | BREMONT | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHARLES ZUBER | CHARRIOL | CHOPARD | CHRONOSWISS | CYRUS GENÈVE | CZAPEK & CIE | EBERHARD & CO. | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | FREDERIQUE CONSTANT | GERALD CHARLES | GRAND SEIKO | GRÖNEFELD | H. MOSER & CIE. | HAUTLENCE | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | HYSEK | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET | MONTBLANC | NOMOS GLASHÜTTE | NORQAIN | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PEQUIGNET | PIAGET | RAYMOND WEIL | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE-MARIN | TAG HEUER | TRILOBE | TUDOR | U-BOAT | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH

Day 1 at Watches and Wonders 2023

What is everybody talking about?

Day 1 at Watches and Wonders, yes, that’s right!

The watch industry’s largest and most important trade show began with a bang. Geneva is witnessing the exhibition of the biggest and best watch brands, including some nascent brands, into the fold.

The following week will unveil novelties from Maisons that are coveted and greatly looked forward to. The design and innovations in this space are worth watching out for.

Stay with us for the latest updates on what’s happening at the most happening show.

We shall dive deeper and what better way than to start out with a mythical model?

Cartier Privé

We love the Tank models and every new addition to this collection is welcome. This year Cartier Privé dropped a limited edition timepiece its 7th opus: the Tank Normale. 

Cyrus Geneve

CYRUS Genève is expanding the KLEPCYS GMT RETROGRADE collection and introducing two new versions, “Klepcys GMT Ocean Blue” & “Klepcys GMT Palm Green” with a 42 mm titanium case and the in-house CYR708 automatic calibre with a 55-hour power reserve.

These time instruments featuring a dual time function are designed to be “user-friendly” and intuitive.

Also, for the first time in a CYRUS collection, a metal bracelet is the new key feature of these creations for 2023. Both models are also available with a grey Cordura strap with a titanium folding clasp personalised with the Cyrus logo.

Grand Seiko 

Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph is the first mechanical novelty from Grand Seiko.

Exciting, new and a first, it is a sporty automatic high-beat chronograph. It is emblematic of the next-gen Grand Seiko sports watches for its technological innovation and equally stunning Evolution 9 Style.

Tag Heuer Carrera

From the short-lived yet mythical Carrera Panamericana race of the 1950s, the Carrera collection epitomises the relentless passion for the speed and precision of motor racing pilots. For its 60th anniversary in 2023, TAG Heuer is reinventing an icon. Imbued with unique novelties, all iterations express the legendary Carrera’s unstoppable drive for style and performance on the tracks. 

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Tourbillon, a classic watch with an intense blue dial and orange highlights, is a complex technical gem – mastered by only an elite circle of watchmakers – bringing high accuracy to the chronometer-certified automatic TH20-09 movement, backed by 65 hours of power reserve. Ideal on the track.

Hautlence Linear Series

The Hautlence Linear Series 2, the latest addition to the Linear collection, has a new style of movement and design. Unveiled as ‘black is the new black’, the Linear Series 2 takes on darker tones to further highlight the kinetic elements in striking blue.

The full-black PVD-coated case with an integrated black strap makes the watch matte and modern, highlighting the elements of the striking blue hour’s hand, long arm and tourbillon bridge.

The signature TV-shaped case, its unique shape, and its linear retrograde jumping hours make the watch exciting and intriguing.

Louis Moinet – IMPULSION

The idea was to make the chronograph mechanism entirely visible on the dial side and then the magic of a tourbillon was added. This timepiece is bolder and original and thus, the naming of it, Impulsion, is apt and draws from its capacity to transfer energy to the chronograph and the tourbillon producing a show of spectacularity.

Pequignet Concorde Navy Blue

This deep blue model from the Concorde collection invites us to immerse ourselves in its dial. Its fascinating features include Luminova hour markers and a date aperture at 3 o’clock driven by the Calibre Initial. The Concorde has a steel bracelet that follows the architectural codes of the Place de la Concorde in Paris, namely its obelisk. It is available in 36mm and 40mm sizes to fit all wrist sizes.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante

Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante, a new world première following on from Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante. After superimposed hours hands comes the turn of superimposed minutes hands! They sum up the brand’s approach: rethinking functionalities to adapt them to contemporary needs.

 

20 Days to Watches and Wonders 2022

The moment journalists, retailers and clients of the 38 exhibiting Maisons have been waiting for… Watches and Wonders Geneva will finally open its doors on 30 March 2022, for a week filled with exciting discoveries. A vast digital system has been set up to allow invited guests and the general public to follow online either live or via replay all the action of the Salon, which is already shaping up to be THE watch industry event of the year.

While the press, retailers and guests invited to the Salon can already plan their personalized program on the watchesandwonders.com platform, in Geneva the excitement is reaching a fever pitch. The set-up of the different exhibition areas is already underway to ensure that visitors can be welcomed while respecting health measures. In the surrounding manufactures and ateliers, the watchmakers are putting the final details to the new watches and jewelry collections that will be unveiled by the Maisons on March 30.

For its first physical event under the name Watches and Wonders Geneva – since last year’s event was entirely digital – the Salon will focus on major launches, previews, exceptional pieces and numerous new wonders. Aside from being featured in the Touch & Feel sessions, products will also be at the heart of discussions over many organized events, such as the Morning Show, the panel discussions and the innovative projects unveiled in the LAB.

Broadcast live from the Salon every morning at 8 am CET on the watchesandwonders.com platform and on its YouTube channel, The Morning Show will be presented this year by Olivia Chang, a renowned business journalist. She will host this first morning program with cross conversations between brand leaders and industry experts to follow the news of the Salon and decipher new trends. She will be back again at 7 pm CET on the Late Show, a new rendez-vous that will review the day’s highlights. Also broadcast live and in replay, the program will feature a different guest each day, who will be invited to share his or her favorites from the Salon. The Late Show will also offer a summary of the keynotes from the Maisons held in the Auditorium, along with highlights of the exceptional pieces being unveiled by the 38 exhibiting brands.

A daily 45-minute panel discussion, hosted by watchmaking experts and other influential personalities, will explore the issue of sustainable development in greater depth. This theme, a particularly hot topic at the moment, will be addressed from different angles, such as transparency, responsible sourcing, innovation and the circular economy. Broadcast live from the Salon at 1 pm CET on the watchesandwonders.com platform and on its YouTube channel, the program will also be available in replay.

Located in the center of the Salon, facing the Carré des Horlogers, the LAB has been designed as an ideas laboratory. This space, showcasing nearly 15 projects, will present the technological and digital innovations of the exhibiting Maisons. Highlighting eco- responsible sourcing practices, upcycling, the use of new materials, new energy sources and strategic partnerships with sustainable associations and organizations, the various initiatives will enable visitors to discover all these innovations and gain a better understanding of NFTs (Non-Fungible Token) and the world of metaverse.

Watches and Culture will also curate the ‘Time Design’ exhibition dedicated to the evolution of wristwatch design through the ages. Imagined as a journey through watchmaking creativity and illustrated by more than 100 timepieces presented in showcases designed by students of ECAL (École d’art de Lausanne), the event will also pay tribute to the work of Mr. Gérald Genta. Five pieces produced by students of the HEAD art & design school in Geneva will invite visitors to question the display of time, while an augmented reality experience will immerse the viewer in the history of a few watchmaking icons.

A broadcasting area consisting of two fully equipped studios will be available for the Maisons who wish to stay in touch with those journalists who are unable to travel to Geneva. In addition, booths equipped with a VISIODOME, a system that proved its worth last year as an optimized way of presenting products remotely, will allow the Maisons to share their latest creations with a larger audience.

Everyone is working hard to make this long-awaited edition the greatest watchmaking summit ever held in Geneva! Just 30 days to go before discovering new watches and jewelry releases, previews, major announcements, exceptional pieces and other innovations.

EXHIBITING MAISONS:

| A. LANGE & SÖHNE | BAUME & MERCIER | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | GRAND SEIKO | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | MONTBLANC | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PIAGET | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | TAG HEUER | TUDOR | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH

CARRÉ DES HORLOGERS:

| ANGELUS | ARMIN STROM | ARNOLD & SON | CYRUS GENÈVE | CZAPEK & CIE | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | H. MOSER & CIE. | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE-MARIN | TRILOBE