Girard-Perregaux marks the 160th anniversary of diplomatic relations existing between Switzerland and Japan with the release of two versions of the Laureato. These models, celebrating the Maison’s longstanding ties with Japan, are limited to just 100 pieces each. The colour of each dial is indigo blue, inspired by and paying homage to the Japanese colour. Perpetuating the iconic Laureato design language, these Japan editions wonderfully showcase the extraordinary talents of the Manufacture’s craftspeople.
The story begins in 1860
In 1860, the same year Constant Girard began sketching his ideas for what would later become the legendary Tourbillon with Three Bridges, his brother-in-law, François Perregaux set up an office in Yokohama. It was a bold venture that saw Girard-Perregaux become the first Swiss watch company to establish a presence in Japan. A few years after his arrival, a ‘Friendship and Trade Treaty’ was signed between Japan and Switzerland, leading to clocks and watches being exported to the Asian state.
When Girard-Perregaux watches first emerged on the Japanese market, the country did not use the same timekeeping system as Europe, hence Swiss watches were viewed as curiosities. However, in 1873, as Japan commenced building a railway network, the nation adopted a Western time measurement system. This provided a great opportunity for François and led to a significant rise in Swiss watch exports.
Over the years, François travelled extensively throughout Asia; however, he would always return to Japan, his adopted home. A pioneer and maverick, François Perregaux was instrumental in forging close ties between the Maison and Japan, a relationship that continues to endure today, almost 165 years since the son of La Chaux-de-Fonds arrived in Yokohama. The Manufacture has maintained a strong retail presence in the country and has crafted several Japan-only limited editions. For example, in 2019, Girard-Perregaux released the vintage 1945 Japan edition, a watch featuring similar blue tones on a white dial which proved popular and prompted favourable feedback from admirers of the Manufacture.
While each nation has its own unique characteristics, both Japan and Switzerland share an appreciation for craftsmanship, often inspired by nature and, in particular, their local surroundings. It is this shared understanding between Girard-Perregaux, a brand known for paying close attention to the smallest of details, and Japan’s many discerning watch enthusiasts that continues to perpetuate the Maison’s esteemed reputation in this market.
Paying tribute to a special relationship
In recognition of its special relationship, the Swiss Manufacture has chosen to craft two limited edition models, exclusively for Nippon. Both models, a Laureato 42 mm with a blue Grand Feu enamel dial and a Laureato Chronograph 42 mm Titanium featuring a Clous de Paris pattern, are dressed in a distinctive shade of indigo blue and limited to 100 pieces each.
Among the many traditional colours, the Maison chose indigo blue, termed ‘Aiiro’, for its historical significance in Japan. Production of Aiiro dye, extracted from the Japanese indigo plant (Periscaria tinctoria), is believed to have been prevalent during the 16th century and is often associated with samurai warriors who considered the hue as a ‘winning colour’. When English chemist, Robert Atkinson (1850-1929) arrived in Japan in 1874, he was amazed to see the widespread use of the bewitching hue and described the colour as ‘Japan blue’, a shade that is celebrated with these latest GP models.
Laureato 42 mm with Grand Feu enamel dial
The first limited edition, the Laureato 42 mm with Grand Feu enamel dial, is housed in a stainless case and is a modern take on the legendary Laureato, originally released in 1975. Upholding the familiar design language, much loved by watch aficionados, this latest model imparts meaning with three hands and incorporates a date display adjacent 3 o’clock. An exquisite play with shapes comprising an octagonal bezel, sat atop a circular plinth, positioned above a tonneau-shaped case, the housing toys with light, juxtaposing brilliance and shade. This game of contrasts is repeated with polished and satin finished surfaces placed side by side. At the heart of the watch, a self-winding Manufacture movement, the Calibre GP1800, further demonstrates the Maison’s in-house expertise. It is embellished with straight and circular Côtes de Genève motif, circular graining, bevelling, engravings, sunray finish, mirror-polishing and snailing; all visible via the sapphire caseback.
The pièce de resistance is the Grand Feu enamel dial, skilfully crafted in the company’s in-house facility. The base of the dial is formed of a silver disc which has then been endowed with a guilloché sunray motif. Thereafter, the magic begins when a mixture of silica, minium, potash and soda are ground into a powder and combined with metal oxides to create the desired shade of indigo blue. This powder is dusted onto the brass disc and then fired at temperatures of approximately 800°C. The artisan must judge when the dial should be removed from the oven, allowing it to cool, while taking care not to spoil its appearance. This process is repeated 5-10 times to achieve the desired lustrous appearance. A product of patience and skill, such dials can incorporate tiny fissures, air bubbles or other imperfections, leading to them being rejected and requiring the dial making process to begin anew. Unquestionably time consuming to create, a Grand Feu enamel dial won’t fade, promising an enduring allure that will never diminish.
Laureato Chronograph 42 mm Titanium
The case of this limited edition model is formed of lightweight Grade 5 titanium, a material that is strong, stiff, corrosion-resistant, non-magnetic and hypoallergenic. Some sections of the high-tech alloy are polished to a brilliant gleam that bestow an elegant contrast with neighbouring satin finished surfaces.
Perpetuating a Laureato tradition, the dial is adorned with a Clous Paris motif, executed in a sumptuous shade of indigo blue. The counters and flange are presented in black, delivering a subtle tonal variance.
Sitting at the heart of the Laureato Chronograph 42 mm is an in-house self-winding movement, the Calibre GP3300. Comprising 419 components, each decorated to the Maison’s legendary high standards, the movement will run autonomously for a minimum of 46 hours.
A rare breed
Both models are presented on integrated bracelets, proffering stylish elegance coupled with superb wearer comfort. Each limited edition, engraved with the inscription ‘Special Edition of 100 pieces’, serves as a fitting tribute to the special relationship between two nations that share a remarkable history.
The Laureato Japan ‘Aiiro’ editions will go on sale in October and will be available in a selection of authorized dealers in Japan.
LAUREATO 42 MM
Reference: 81010-11-3310-1GM
Retail price: JPY 2’585’000
Limited edition of 100 pieces, engraved “Special Edition of 100 pieces”
Case
Material: steel, polished and satin finished
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Height: 10.68 mm
Glass: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: sapphire crystal
Dial: blue enamel with a guilloché sunray motif
Hands: ‘baton’ type, rhodium plated
Water resistance: 100 meters (10 ATM)
Movement
Reference: GP01800-1730
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 30.00 mm (131/4’’’)
Height: 3.97 mm
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h – (4 Hz)
Number of components: 191
Number of jewels: 28
Power reserve: min. 54 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, central second, date
Bracelet
Material: steel, polished and satin finished
LAUREATO CHRONOGRAPH 42 MM
Reference: 81020-21-3311-1GM
Retail price: JPY 2’805’000
Limited edition of 100 pieces, engraved “Special Edition of 100 pieces”
Case
Material: titanium, polished and satin finished
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Height: 12.01 mm
Glass: anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: secured by 6 screws
Dial: blue and black dial with a Clous de Paris pattern, ‘baton’ type indexes with luminescent material (green emission)
Hands: ‘baton’ type, black PVD-treated with luminescent material (green emission)
Water resistance: 100 meters (10 ATM)
Movement
Reference: GP03300-0141
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 25.95 mm (111/2’’’)
Height: 6.50 mm
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h – (4 Hz)
Number of components: 419
Number of jewels: 63
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds,
date, chronograph
Bracelet
Material: titanium, polished and satin finished
