Tag Archives: PerpetualCalendar

The Caliber B19 Arrives: Breitling’s Most Advanced Navitimer Yet

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Breitling introduces two new perpetual-calendar chronographs that represent the Navitimer at its highest expression. The Navitimer B19 duo is inspired by the extreme altitudes the iconic pilot’s chronograph has mastered.

For over 70 years, the Navitimer has taken on many roles, from essential pilots’ tool to cultural icon. This year, Navitimer Stories will bring these chapters to light across aviation, lifestyle, and technical savoir faire, showing why this remarkable timepiece remains as relevant today as ever. Created in 1952 for the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA), the Navitimer united a chronograph with Breitling’s patented circular slide rule, allowing aviators to perform flight calculations directly from their wrist. The quintessential pilots’ watch, it soon proved itself across every altitude—worn by supersonic pilots at the edge of space and by astronauts from the earliest days of human spaceflight.

Now presented in its highest expression of complexity and materials, Breitling introduces the Navitimer B19 as two exceptional timepieces powered by the brand’s manufacture B19 perpetual-calendar chronograph movement. Rendered in steel and platinum or full platinum and finished in altitude inspired colorways, they celebrate the vertical journey of Breitling’s icon.

“At Breitling, we have always pushed limits, not only through our iconic designs, but also by engineering exceptional movements that power our watches.” says Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling. “The Navitimer B19 delivers on both sides.”

A CENTURY IN MOTION: THE CALIBER B19

At the heart of this high-altitude duo is the Breitling Manufacture Caliber B19, first introduced in 2024 to mark the brand’s 140th anniversary. It represents a major technical milestone,combining Breitling’s chronograph exper tise with a true perpetual calendar, one that automatically accounts for leap years and varying month lengths, and will not require a major manual correction for a century. The moonphase adds a final celestial link, reinforcing the Navitimer’s original purpose as an instrument made for the sky.

Technically, the Navitimer B19 has set a new benchmark for Breitling, a feat that earned it a 2025 Temporis Award. It is an automatic perpetual calendar chronograph with a 96-hour power reserve. A one-step correction system via the crown allows all calendar indications to be advanced together, while two discreet dimple-style pushers at 8 and 10 o’clock enable individual adjustments. Winding is handled by a solid 18k red-gold rotor, visible through the sapphire caseback, and the movement is COSC-certified as a chronometer for unwavering precision.

It is, quite simply, the most advanced movement ever housed in a Navitimer and currently the only core-catalog automatic perpetual-calendar chronograph on the market.

 

ALTITUDE AS COLOR, MATERIAL, AND MOOD

The timepieces translate the Navitimer’s story in the air universe into two powerful, tangible expressions. Each model channels a different altitude. A 75-piece limited edition in full platinum features a deep blue lacquered dial inspired by the stratosphere at high cruising altitudes, where the atmosphere thins, the sky deepens, and the Earth’s curvature becomes visible. The full platinum case is paired with a black outer slide rule and a contrasting white inner scale, drawing the eye toward the dial’s celestial center. It is fitted
with a matching navy-blue alligator strap with a folding clasp.

The second execution, in stainless steel with a platinum bezel, is defined by its anthracite dial, reflecting the stillness and depth of space. It features the same high-contrast slide rule configuration and refined dial architecture and is delivered on a brown alligator strap or seven-row steel bracelet, underscoring its dramatic, cosmic tone.

Both models share a series of refined design signatures. Their dials provide depth and sheen, while raised metal rings around the subdials introduce a new three-dimensional architecture.

The moonphase disc at 12 o’clock draws the eye with its detail, and each case is finished with Breitling’s signature knurled bezel. Each dial becomes a miniature universe: technical, celestial, and instantly recognizable as a Navitimer.

AN ICON, STILL IN FLIGHT

The Navitimer was born from professional demand. With its signature slide rule, it became an essential cockpit tool during the golden age of civil aviation. Over time, its distinctive look moved beyond the flight deck, appearing on the wrists of figures as varied as Miles Davis, Serge Gainsbourg, and Formula 1 legends Graham Hill and Jim Clark, and even into space with astronaut Scott Carpenter, while remaining faithful to its original form.

With this pair of exceptional watches, Breitling unites heritage, high complication, and modern design in a way only the Navitimer can. They are shaped by civil aviation, inspired by the skies above, and engineered to measure time for generations.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985

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Jaeger-LeCoultre continues its pursuit of precision in mechanics and aesthetics with three new interpretations of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985. Two are cased in Platinum (950/1000) with an eye-catching blue dial, one with a polished bezel and one with a diamond-set bezel, and the third is cased in 18k pink gold (750/1000) with a brown dial. Developed in 2013, Calibre 985 unites a perpetual calendar and moon phase display with the fascination of a flying tourbillon equipped with a cylindrical hairspring.

Inspired by the quest for precision

The pursuit of precision at Jaeger-LeCoultre is driven by the values of its founder, Antoine LeCoultre. His obsession with accuracy, not only in the design and structure of his calibres, but also in the finishing, assembly and decoration of each case and dial, has inspired every succeeding generation to continue the journey. Calibre 985, incorporating a tourbillon with a cylindrical hairspring, masterfully demonstrates the Manufacture’s expertise in this quest for precision.

The regulating organ – comprising the balance wheel, hairspring and escapement – is one of the most important parts of a movement as it governs the accuracy of timekeeping. Having focused considerable effort for many years on researching the effect of incorporating tourbillons into the regulating organ and on the impact of differently shaped hairsprings, Jaeger-LeCoultre has a deep understanding of how this affects the accuracy of the watch. The expansion and contraction of the hairspring controls the back-and-forth oscillations of the balance wheel, and it is crucial that these oscillations are concentric in order to limit the impact of both gravity and magnetism.

The Manufacture’s engineers discovered that the shape and attachment (terminal curves) of a hairspring determine the way it contracts and expands. They determined that different shapes oscillate differently, according to the specific construction of the regulating organ in a particular calibre. This has prompted the development of hairsprings in S-shape, spherical, semi-spherical and cylindrical forms. Being one of the very few Manufactures able to shape its own hairsprings in-house gives La Grande Maison a distinct advantage in this respect.

The helical or cylindrical form of the hairspring was invented in 1776 then largely forgotten until the 21st century. The ends of the spring coil inwards and it offers enhanced isochronic performance, beating concentrically in every position, regardless of the amplitude (the back-and-forth swing of the balance wheel) or remaining power reserve. This is the hairspring used in Calibre 985.

Calibre 985 – The precision of complications and decoration

A complex and sophisticated movement entirely developed and produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre, Calibre 985 is composed of 431 parts, of which the flying tourbillon alone comprises 83 components. Crafted in titanium, it weighs just 0.386 grams. The enhanced isochronism of the cylindrical hairspring made it the right choice for this movement, which delivers all the functions of a perpetual calendar, as well as a moon phase that will require no adjustment for 122 years.

On the reverse side of the watch, the sapphire crystal case back reveals the exceptional precision of the Haute Horlogerie finishes on the movement, including blued screws, sunrayed Côtes de Genève, snailing and hand-bevelling. The winding rotor in 22k rose gold (916/1000) is decorated with sunray engraving and a reproduction of the gold medal awarded to Antoine LeCoultre at the 1851 Great Exhibition in London for his development of precisely calibrated stamping, cutting machines and mechanical lathes which allowed the components’ interchangeability.

Exceptional cases in platinum and in pink gold with a signature dial

Sophisticated in design and complex in structure, the Master Grande Tradition case consists of more than 80 components. With screwed in lugs and a mix of polished, brushed and micro-blasted surfaces, the case is reserved for only the Maison’s most complex calibres.

The warm glow of the pink gold case is complemented by the soft brown of the corresponding dial, while the cool tones of the platinum case create a striking contrast with the rich blue dial, enhanced by the high polish of the bezel. On the second platinum-cased model, the colour contrast is amplified by diamonds. The bezel is set with 72 baguette-cut diamonds, making a total of approximately 3.4 carats – the subject of 15 hours of gem-setting work in the Manufacture’s own Métiers Rares™ atelier.

A hand-bevelled bridge spans across the dial, with the area surrounding the tourbillon set below the rest of the dial for both aesthetic effect and technical reasons. Tiny details and subtle colour variations add visual interest: the minute track and periphery of each sub-dial are micro-blasted, the inside of the sub-dials is opaline, appearing to change colour in different lights, and the three-dimensional letters and numerals of the calendar indications are laser-engraved in relief, to stand out against their background. Given the emphasis on timekeeping precision, the seconds are indicated on an arc-shaped 20-second scale below the tourbillon aperture – with the three blue hands mounted on the tourbillon cage each measuring a 20-second interval as the tourbillon completes a rotation around its axis every 60 seconds.

The outstanding Master Grande Tradition watch calibres, each comprising multiple complications and several hundred components, epitomise La Grande Maison’s spirit of innovation and devotion to precision. This complexity is complemented by remarkable precision in the decoration and finishing of both movement components and habillage. The new dials of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 are elegant and pure, while the sapphire crystal case back offers a glimpse into true watchmaking mastery.

TECHNICAL DETAILS

MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 985
Case: Platinum (950/1000)
Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 13.27 mm thick
Calibre: Automatic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985
Functions: Hours, minutes, cylindrical flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, (Day, date, month, year), moon phases, Night & Day
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Dial: Blue
Caseback: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 bar
Strap: Blue alligator with small scale alligator lining, pin buckle
Reference: Q5246580

MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 985
Case: Platinum (950/1000)
Dimensions: 72 baguette-cut diamonds (3.4 carats)
Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 13.27 mm thick
Calibre: Automatic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985
Functions: Hours, minutes, cylindrical flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, (Day, date, month, year), moon phases, Night & Day
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Dial: Blue
Caseback: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 bar
Strap: Blue alligator with small scale alligator lining, pin buckle
Reference: Q5246508

MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 985
Case: Pink Gold (18k – 750/1000)
Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 13.27mm thick
Calibre: Automatic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985
Functions: Hours, minutes, cylindrical flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, (Day, date, month, year), moon phases, Night & Day
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Dial: Brown
Caseback: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 bar
Strap: Brown alligator with small scale alligator lining, double folding buckle
Reference: Q5242461

Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar

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Montblanc captures the elegant, artistic spirit of la femme bohème in every detail of its new Perpetual Calendar timepiece.

In Montblanc’s storied manufactures in Le Locle and Villeret, master watchmakers and artisans bring together traditional Swiss horology with modern decorative techniques to create the new 36mm Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar. From the printed watercolour moon phase disc, to the machine-stamped “star trail” (filé d’étoiles) outer dial, and the highly technical field of micro-diamonds that forms the inner dial, the Bohème Perpetual Calendar represents Montblanc’s dedication to both traditional handcrafts and state-of-the-art material processes that define Swiss watchmaking in the 21st century.

An Elegantly Feminine Visage

The fully mechanical perpetual calendar complication is presented in a flattering 36mm case in either solid rose gold 750/1000 (18 karats) or in a striking bi-metal construction combining stainless steel and rose gold 750/1000 (18 karats). The size has been selected to suit women’s wrists while also offering the appropriate proportions for the perpetual calendar’s various functions to express themselves on the complex, yet very legible dial.

Bringing form and function together like this requires for Montblanc’s designers to carefully place each mechanical function on the dial in order to achieve visual harmony. Discerning collectors will note the thoughtful placement of the four sub dials, as well as the way they gently overlap the outer hour track, a small intrusion that subtly transforms this typically technical and masculine dial configuration into an organic and feminine visage.

Diamonds Like a Night Sky

The four sub dials, indicating the day, date, month, leap year cycle and phases of the moon, float in a dazzling field formed from thousands of micro-diamonds. Rather than using traditional “diamond powder”, Montblanc has elected to deploy a highly technical process by which the tiny diamonds are set side-by-side to create a uniform surface that is then covered with a bright metallic PVD coating. The result is a completely flat, sparkling, dark grey surface. Reminiscent of the countless stars in the night sky, this treatment creates the backdrop for this perpetual calendar complication that tracks the elaborate movements of our solar system with precision.

A Trail of Stars to Tell the Time

Around that inner dial is the white-silver hour track. This is created using a specific stamping method to create a pattern called filé d’étoiles – trail of stars. The pattern was inspired by long-exposure photographs of the night sky, often called Astro photographs, that reveal the stars as streaks of light. The stars, of course, aren’t moving; rather, these stunning photographs document the Earth’s daily rotation, the same planetary dance that has fascinated watchmakers for centuries and which forms the underlying logic of the perpetual calendar complication.

The Long Cycles of Time

While deeply complicated and elaborately decorated, the dial remains highly legible. Hours are highlighted by Floral Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12, while traditional trapezoidal indicators occupy the intermediary positions. Elegant rose gold-coated leaf hands reach just far enough to make at-a-glance time-telling intuitive.

Indications in Handwritten Style

In its form, the Bohème Perpetual Calendar also pays subtle homage to the beauty of handwriting. A closer look at the three upper-sub dials reveals the indications in a font reminiscent of handwriting, celebrating Montblanc’s writing culture heritage.

A Watercolour Moon in a Watercolour Sky

All of this sets the scene for the moon-phase complication. Located within the 6 o’clock sub dial, the phases of the moon are indicated along with the long-range calendar that will remain accurate until the year 2100 (when the Gregorian calendar will ignore a leap year to compensate for accumulated annual deviations).

The moon-phase disc found on the Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar has been crafted using serigraphy, with the pattern and colours based on an interpretation of watercolours that adds a further romantic touch to this central feature.

A Bezel Full of Choice Diamonds

Whether choosing the rose-gold 750/1000 (18 karats) model or the bi-metal version, the rose gold 750/1000 (18 karats) bezel of the Bohème Perpetual Calendar is fitted with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds. Each diamond meets or exceeds the V. S. rating for clarity as well as the inclusion in at least the Top Wesselton category for whiteness.

It is worth noting that the 60 diamonds surrounding the dial also act as a precise minute-track. While every aesthetic feature of the Bohème Perpetual Calendar is sophisticated and highly decorative, precision timekeeping is always at the heart of the timepiece.

Achieving High Complication With Calibre MB 29.15

Montblanc’s calibre MB 29.15 offers the full suite of perpetual calendar features, including the hour and minutes, the day of the week, the month, a leap year indicator and the watercolour interpretation moon-phase. This watch will not need to be reset until March 2100, and it holds 42-hours’ worth of mechanical power when fully wound. Adjustments, when needed, are activated intuitively using correctors on mid-case.

Each MB 29.15 movement undergoes rigorous Montblanc laboratory test in the manufacture of Le Locle in order to ensure the ultimate in precision timekeeping.

Three Straps for Every Mood

The Bohème Perpetual Calendar comes with three interchangeable straps: a beige calfskin strap with alligator print, a smooth black calfskin strap, and a burgundy-tone calfskin strap, rounding out the versatility of the timepiece.

Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar 36mm

Movement Calibre MB 29.15
Type of movement Mechanical movement with automatic winding mechanism
Number of jewels 25
Power reserve Approx. 42 hours
Balance Flat hoop
Frequency 28,800 A/h (4 Hz)
Hairspring Flat
Displays Hours, minutes from the center
Perpetual calendar with month by hand and leap year cycle by disc at 12 o’clock
Day by hand at 9 o’clock
Date by hand at 3 o’clock
Moon phase in a window at 6 o’clock

Habillage
Case Stainless steel case with a rose gold 750/1000 (18 karats) bezel set with 60 brillant-cut diamonds (approx.0.9carat)
Crystal Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Back Stainless steel with inset pane of sapphire crystal
Dimensions Diameter = 36 mm; height = 10.05 mm
Water-resistance 3 bar (30 m)
Crown rose gold 750/1000 (18 karats) with Montblanc emblem
Dial Silver-white dial adorned with rose gold-coated Arabic numerals, indexes and leaf-shaped hands
Micro diamonds surface (approx. 0.14 carat) in the center, filet sauté pattern and filé d ’étoiles effect on the outside of the dial.

Wristband* Delivered with 3 straps:
Beige interchangeable calf leather strap with alligator print
Black interchangeable calf leather strap
Burgundy-tone interchangeable calf leather strap with alligator print, shiny finish
With stainless steel pin buckle

Limited Edition No

 

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface

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THE FIRST MINUTE REPEATER IN THE OVERSEAS COLLECTION

HAUTE HORLOGERIE PROWESS

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface is the outcome of a long process to meet the challenge of integrating a grand complication mechanism into an elegant case. In addition to a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar, this movement incorporates a minute repeater, a first in the collection. Generally speaking, water resistance is difficult to achieve with minute repeater calibres due to the sliding mechanism in the case-side that activates the repeater. The challenge with this model was to ensure the water-resistance of the Overseas case, while adapting its lines to Calibre 2755 QP. This required a year and a half of research and development and involved a complete redesign of the caseback to create space for the minute repeater mechanism while maintaining the slender curves characteristic of Overseas watches. With a diameter of 44.5 mm and a height of 13.1 mm, the proportions of this new Overseas case deftly balance the collection’s adventurous character with a spirit of elegance.

AN EMBLEMATIC CALIBRE

One of Vacheron Constantin’s emblematic movements, Calibre 2755 QP benefits from developments made for the Tour de l’Île watch presented in 2005 and brings together three major horological complications. With its 602 components contained within a diameter of 33.30 mm, it incorporates a perpetual calendar with date, day, month and leap-year cycle indications. In addition to this calendar mechanism, which requires no correction before 2100 – a non-leap secular year – there is a minute repeater.

To govern the cadence of the repeater mechanism, which strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on demand, the Maison’s watchmakers developed a centripetal regulator, a proprietary device that allows the hammers to be struck at the precise intervals required to obtain the correct musical sequences. Totally silent, this regulator features two centrifugal weights that act as a motor brake on the axis of rotation, smoothing the flow of energy released by the repeater spring.

In keeping with Vacheron Constantin’s attention to detail, particular attention has been paid to the aesthetics of this governing device, which is visible through the sapphire caseback. An arc-shaped bar secures the regulator; crafted in 750/1000 gold its rounded form requires a full day of meticulous hand- polishing. Beneath it, the circular-grained inertia weights are engraved with the initials of Jean-Marc Vacheron, who founded the Maison in 1755.

AN EMBLEMATIC CALIBRE

The same high standards were applied to the finishing of the tourbillon bridges, which involved rounding the convex profile as well as tapering it towards the fixing screws, then hand- polishing each bridge to a perfect shine. Their architecture was also reviewed, particularly on the reverse side, where it has been made more open and visually lighter. This allows full appreciation of the tourbillon’s ballet, which is enhanced by the relatively slow tempo of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz). Commensurate with the complexity of Calibre 2755 QP, the movement finishes also include mirror-polished repeater hammers, bevelled and satin-brushed bridges, circular satin-brushed wheels, and bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève.

A SPORTY AND CONTEMPORARY AESTHETIC

With its grade 5 titanium case and integrated bracelet, the Overseas Grand Complication Openface watch remains true to the spirit of the collection. Its sporty, contemporary character is enhanced by the transparency of the sapphire dial, which reveals the beauty and complexity of the movement. Applied to the transparent sapphire, the 18-carat white gold hour-markers appear to be floating in space, amplifying the airy aesthetic.

To enhance legibility and create a dynamic contrast with the grey and silver tones of the movement components, the circles surrounding each of the time and calendar indications are treated with a blue metallised finish. The surface of each metallised circle is then engraved in white with the various indications – dates, days, months, years and minutes.

Viewed through the sapphire dial the avant-garde spirit of the watch is highlighted by the contrast between the anthracite grey hue of the NAC galvanic treatment on the bridges and the silvery tone of the rhodium-plated wheels. The mix of finishes on the case and bracelet amplifies the contemporary aesthetic with a visually captivating play of light and reflections. On the bezel, sandblasting combines with polishing and satin-brushing – a new signature for titanium-cased models in the Overseas collection. Like the other pieces in the collection, the model’s titanium bracelet, fitted with a comfort system, is interchangeable without tools and two additional straps – one in blue alligator, one in blue rubber – are offered with the watch.

TECHNICAL DATA

OVERSEAS GRAND COMPLICATION OPENFACE

Reference: 6510V/110T-128C

Calibre: 2755 QP
Developed and manufactured by V acheron Constantin
Mechanical manual-winding
33.9 mm diameter, 7.9 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5 Hz (18’000 vibrations/hour)
602 components
45 jewels
NAC finishing
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications: Hours and minutes
Small seconds on tourbillon
Minute repeater
Perpetual calendar (day, date, month, leap year)
Tourbillon
Power reserve on the back of the watch

Case: Titanium grade 5
44.5 mm diameter, 13.1 mm height
T ransparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water resistant tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)

Dial: Sapphire crystal with blue display counters
18K white gold (750/1000) hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with blue
Super-Luminova®
18K white gold (750/1000) counter hands

Strap: Titanium grade 5, satin-finished and polished, interchangeable and with comfort-adjustment
system; T wo additional straps, in blue alligator and in blue rubber

Buckle: Titanium grade 5 folding clasp
One additional titanium grade 5 folding clasp, interchangeable and compatible with both
additional straps