A watch might display the time, but this watch makes time melt away. Pack your bags, because we’re going somewhere idyllic.

Wearing a TUDOR has the power to mentally transport you somewhere—and with the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”, that somewhere is warm, the sun is shining, and waves of azure water are gently lapping against shell-dotted white sand beach. A watch can do more than tell time, it can shift your mindset. With a perfectly proportioned 37mm case and a “Lagoon Blue” dial plucked straight from paradise, this is the ideal complement to seasons full of sunsets, sand, and slowing down.

But it’s not only the case size that casts a spell on those who wear the newest Black Bay 54 iteration. It’s also in the magical combination of the sand-textured dial and mirror-polished bezel, not to mention the five-link bracelet that wraps perfectly around your wrist and feels like laying down in a well-worn hammock laced up between two palm trees right where the water meets the sand.

This is the watch that perfectly captures those dreamy vibes of summertime—forever.

KEY POINTS

• A sand-textured “Lagoon Blue” dial that’s reminiscent of the sea, sun, and the slow life.
• A mirror-polished bezel that reflects your sun-soaked surroundings, like big blue skies and endless horizons.
• “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material.
• Manufacture Calibre MT5400, COSC-certified with a silicon balance spring, 70-hour power reserve.
• A five-link bracelet with polished centre links, like glittering light on water all the way to the horizon.
• Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required

DIVING INTO THE PAST

The Black Bay line was conceived with the past in mind. Honouring the important designs that laid the foundation of TUDOR’s unique aesthetic is of the highest importance. While the Black Bay line has always incorporated signature elements of past TUDOR dive watches, the Black Bay 54 is perhaps the most true-to-form Black Bay to have been created thus far. The Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7922 is a formidable candidate to draw inspiration from, as it was known to have been evaluated and consequently adopted by the French and US Navies and widely used by diving professionals. The earliest iterations of the 7922 used a “small crown” and eschewed the later emblematic red triangle at 12 o’clock for a cleaner, more uniform aesthetic. The Black Bay 54 follows this tradition. In fact, the Black Bay 54 recalls a number of small design details that make a big difference. Take the hands for instance, in addition to proportional adjustments, they’re pinched at the base, the same way they appeared in 1954. The bezel edge has been redesigned as well, with a modernized take on the ergonomic pattern of the 7922. Of course, the Black Bay 54 still features thoroughly modern touches, like a subtle sand-textured dial and a “T-fit” clasp for the perfect fit. And of course, the cutting-edge Manufacture Calibre MT5400.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5400

The Manufacture Calibre MT5400, with which the Black Bay 54 is equipped, displays hour, minute and second functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres: Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations. 

Its build is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point anchoring. This system, together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, enables the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 to function within a tolerance range of 6 seconds (-2/+4) tested on a fully assembled watch. 

Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 is “weekend-proof”; that is to say, it has a 70-hour power reserve, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it. Even if you need a weekend away, your watch does not.

5-LINK STEEL BRACELET

The Black Bay 54 is fitted with an entirely satin-brushed 5-link steel bracelet, complete with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp equipped with a system for rapid length adjustment. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical system allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.   

THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY

The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its unprotected crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.

The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together over seventy years of TUDOR dive watches, whilst at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present. It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.

THE TUDOR MANUFACTURE

Every TUDOR watch is assembled and fully tested to TUDOR’s superior standards at the new TUDOR Manufacture located in Le Locle, Switzerland. This new state-of-the-art facility, bringing together the know-how of watchmakers with the best in production management and automated testing systems, was completed in 2021 after three years of construction. All decked out in TUDOR red, the Manufacture spans over four levels totalling 5,500 square meters and is physically and visually connected to the neighbouring Kenissi Manufacture, the TUDOR movement production facility founded in 2016. With Kenissi and a network of TUDOR-owned affiliates, the brand has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibres. As a consequence, TUDOR now fully masters the manufacturing of strategic components and can guarantee their quality. 

THE TUDOR GUARANTEE

Since its creation by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and in line with his vision of an ideal watchmaking product, TUDOR has never stopped producing the most robust, durable, reliable and precise watches in existence today. Bolstered by this experience, and confident in the knowledge of the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee on all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or any periodic maintenance checks to be performed and is transferable should the watch change ownership during coverage. TUDOR also recommends that its watches should be serviced approximately every 10 years depending on the model and the extent of its use on a day-to-day basis.

REFERENCE 79000

CASE
37mm stainless steel case with polished and satin finish

BEZEL
60-minute unidirectional bezel in stainless steel with mirror-polished steel insert devoid of minute graduations

WINDING CROWN
Stainless steel screw-down crown with the TUDOR rose in relief

DIAL
Lagoon Blue, domed and textured

CRYSTAL
Domed sapphire crystal

WATERPROOFNESS
Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)

BRACELET
Five-link stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finish, with TUDOR “T-fit” clasp

MOVEMENT
Manufacture Calibre MT5400 (COSC)
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system

PRECISION
Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute)

FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes and seconds hands at the centre
Stop-seconds for precise time setting

OSCILLATOR
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)

TOTAL DIAMETER
30.3mm

THICKNESS
5mm

JEWELS
27 jewels

POWER RESERVE
Power reserve of approximately 70 hours

#BornToDare
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