A. Lange & Söhne MINUTE REPEATER PERPETUAL

Crystal-clear sound for perpetuity

A. Lange & Söhne incorporated two of the most sophisticated horological complications in the MINUTE REPEATER PERPETUAL. A newly developed, manually wound movement breathes life into this rare and ambitious combination of a minute repeater with a perpetual calendar. The elaborately, artisanally finished timepiece boasting an enamel dial crafted in-house comes in a 950 platinum edition, limited to 50 pieces.

 

The new MINUTE REPEATER PERPETUAL in 950 platinum

 

With the MINUTE REPEATER PERPETUAL, A. Lange & Söhne once again launches a watch with a minute repeater, this time pairing it with a perpetual calendar. Each one of these complications alone represents a technical feat in itself, the combination of the two, however, poses an even greater challenge. This holds true for the engineers as well as the watchmakers, since the precise tuning and harmonising of all the mechanisms requires a superior degree of technical expertise and craftsmanship.

Classic minute repeater with special features

When the slide integrated into the left-hand case flank is actuated, the chiming mechanism strikes the hours, sounding at a low pitch, the quarter hours with a double tone, and the minutes that have elapsed since the last quarter hour with a higher-pitched tone. The impressive duet delivered by two differently tuned gongs comprises a repertoire of 720 different sequences-one for every minute in the twelve-hour cycle. The sapphire-crystal caseback reveals the orchestrated movements of the gong hammers and the gongs, resulting in their melodious sound. An ingenious system of precisely choreographed racks, snails, levers, and wheels controls the 194-part mechanism.

To optimise the operation and functionality of the classic minute repeater, the striking mechanism was enhanced with further intricate devices, among these the pause elimination feature. It skips the pause between the hour and minute strike when no double tone must be struck for the quarter hours in the first 14 minutes after the top of the hour. To prevent damage to the chiming mechanism, it was also equipped with a safety device so that the minute repeater cannot be activated while the crown is pulled. Consequently, the crown cannot be pulled when the chiming mechanism is active. Finally, the patented hammer blocker causes the hammers to dwell in their home position for a fraction of a second after the gongs have been struck. Thus, the re-bounding hammers cannot bounce and strike the gongs again.

Reverse side of the MINUTE REPEATER PERPETUAL with visible striking mechanism

The art of crystal-clear sound

Just like all Lange watches with a striking mechanism, the MINUTE REPEATER PERPETUAL is designed to superb acoustic quality standards and has a unique timbre. A lucid, clear, and reverberant sound is assured by the hand-tuned gongs that harmonise perfectly with the acoustic characteristics of platinum, the case material. The completion of a minute repeater is highly elaborate; it also calls for acute hearing and extreme dexterity. All components are carefully harmonised with one another by a Lange master watchmaker. This requires adapting, multiple disassemblies, reworking, reassembly and finally testing. As far as the hammers are concerned, the key issues are material, shape, size, weight, and hardness – and above all, just like with a piano, strike.

“Thanks to the development of a new movement, we were able to work towards a perfect sound experience, right from the start ‒ just like with our other models featuring a striking mechanism: the ZEITWERK MINUTE REPEATER, the RICHARD LANGE MINUTE REPEATER or the GRAND COMPLICATION. Combined with the acoustic properties of platinum, we succeeded in achieving a singular sonority and intensity of sound,” explains Anthony de Haas, Director of Product Development at A. Lange & Söhne.

Perpetual calendar with Lange outsize date

While the minute repeater chimes the time in the here and now, the technical virtuosity of the perpetual calendar will persist into the distant future. Across decades, the mechanism will assure the precise display of the date, day of the week and month, even taking into account the leap years. The calendar indications must only be corrected by one day but not until 1 March 2100; according to the rules of the Gregorian calendar, the leap year will then be skipped. This also applies to the moon-phase display that so closely emulates the duration of the synodic orbit of the earth’s satellite that it would take 122.6 years for the display to be corrected by one day. The mechanism is highly sophisticated yet excels with its ease of operation: in typical
Lange manner, all calendar indications can jointly be advanced with one single corrector.

An eye-catching detail of the timepiece ‒ the enamel dial

The technical sophistication of this multiple-complication watch is reflected in the high-quality artisanship of the four-part dial. Made of white gold and filled with black enamel, it is crafted in the A. Lange & Söhne manufacture in a time-consuming procedure. The immaculate, glossy black surface offers the displays and the characteristic Lange outsize date an elegant stage,providing a contrasting backdrop, thus assuring excellent legibility. The subsidiary dial at 9 o’clock accommodates the day-of-week and the 24-hour displays while a second one located at 3 o’clock is graced by the month and leap-year indications. A third subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock showcases the small seconds and the moon-phase display: both moons in 750 gold are surrounded by more than 100 hand-engraved stars.

This exceptional timepiece exhibits a further salient detail: all four dial sections are embellished with a circular lesene, a fine border in white gold. On the main dial, it runs between the outsize date and the Roman numerals; on the subsidiary dials, the lesenes separate the inner display sections from the outer ones.

Artisanally finished new manufacture calibre

The sapphire-crystal caseback provides fascinating insights into the technical complexity and the high degree of artisanal finishing of the newly developed Lange manufacture calibre L122.2. Whether clearly visible or concealed, all 640 parts of the manually wound movement address all expectations that are associated with A. Lange & Söhne’s craftsmanship. The aesthetic highlights include the balance cock that is engraved with a free-hand technique, with the whiplash spring mounted on top. The lateral setscrew assures the precision regulation of the interaction between the escapement and the oscillation system. The three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver is decorated with black rhodiumed engravings. Four screwed gold chatons adorn its grained surface.

Whereas the greater part of the repeater and the perpetual calendar mechanisms lies concealed below the dial, the most important elements of the striking mechanism – the two manually bent gongs framing the movement and the two gong hammers – are resplendent in their beauty. The hammers provide an additional focal point: they are elaborately finished with black polish, a technique that involves a considerable amount of manual work. It ensures that incident light is reflected in merely one single direction. Viewed from one perspective only, the surface is jet black, yet seen from all other angles, it appears to have a mirror-like gloss. The barrel bridge, the centrifugal-governor bridge and the gong hammer bridges are adorned with solarisation, creating a visual entity. The most dynamic component of the movement, the centrifugal governor is mounted in an overhung position, making it almost silent when operational. It rotates at a speed of more than 2,000 revolutions per minute when the striking mechanism is running. This guarantees the uniform cadence of the strikes. The Lange manufacture calibre is equipped with a screw balance and a freely oscillating balance spring crafted in-house. Decorated with solarisation, the mainspring barrel delivers a maximum power reserve of 72 hours.

MINUTE REPEATER PERPETUAL Ref. 607.091FE

Movement:  Lange manufacture calibre L122.2, manually wound, crafted to the
most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled
by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; three-quarter plate
made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand

No. of movement parts: 640

No. of jewels: 54

No. of screwed gold chatons: 4

Escapement: Lever escapement

Oscillation system: Shock-resistant screw balance; superior-quality balance spring
manufactured in-house, frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per
hour, precision beat adjustment system with lateral setscrew and
whiplash spring

Power reserve: 72 hours when fully wound
Functions: Time indicated in hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop
seconds; striking mechanism with minute repeater; perpetual
calendar with displays for outsize date, day of week, 24-hour
display, month and leap year; moon-phase display

Operating elements: Crown for winding the watch and setting the time; slide for
activating the minute repeater; corrector for jointly advancing all
calendar indications, one corrector each for the day of week,
month/leap-year and moon phase

Case dimensions Diameter: 40.5 millimetres; height: 12.1 millimetres

Movement dimensions: Diameter: 30.0 millimetres; height: 7.6 millimetres

Crystal and transparent caseback: Sapphire crystal (Mohs hardness 9)

Case: 950 platinum

Water resistance: Up to 2 bar (20 metres)

Dial: 750 gold, black enamelled

Hands: 750 gold

Appliques: 750 gold, rhodiumed, Roman

Strap: Hand-stitched alligator leather, black

Buckle: Deployant buckle in 950 platinum

Limited edition: 50 watches, edition number engraving

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024

55 exhibiting Maisons, 3 days open to the Public

Taking place from April 9 to 15, 2024, the next Watches and Wonders Geneva promises to be a thrilling one, with an enhanced program at the Salon and In The City, specially designed for the general public. The focus will be on the visitor experience, as well as meaningful connection and interaction with the exhibiting Maisons. Several spaces have been expanded, allowing the event to host new brands and welcome the public over 3 full days!

Planning is already well underway for Watches and Wonders Geneva to ensure a unique week for the world of fine watchmaking, with a record 55 watch brands confirmed to take part in 2024. It’s a chance for industry professionals, connoisseurs and enthusiasts to come together, experience the latest products first-hand, engage and build meaningful connections. A new 7-day program has been designed with the Salon opening to the public from Saturday to Monday. Tickets can be purchased online from early February 2024, with student and weekend prices available.

The Watches and Wonders Geneva experience has been reimagined for 2024. It will now encompass two floors and feature new spaces for visitors to explore along with enhanced venues for meeting and discussion.

In addition to prestigious names such as Rolex, Cartier, Patek Philippe, IWC Schaffhausen and TAG Heuer, six new brands will be exhibiting for the first time, with Bremont on one side and Eberhard & Co, Gerald Charles, Nomos Glashütte, Norqain and Raymond Weil on the other. H. Moser & Cie. will also be making its return to the Carré des Horlogers.

The LAB, which serves as a window into the future of the industry, will take on a new dimension at the heart of the Salon, symbolically representing the importance of technological innovation within the manufactures. Here, startups, schools and engineers will reveal the secrets of tomorrow’s watchmaking. It’s an immersive, tactile and sensory experience for the curious and especially relevant to younger enthusiasts with career aspirations.

The heart of the City will be ticking even louder to the rhythm of watch movements, with a dynamic In The City program. A new Village Horloger will be created to showcase the wonders of fine watchmaking, its crafts, savoir-faire and talents. Major brands will also be joining the festivities with in-store activities featuring presentations and special exhibitions of their finest creations. The evening celebration – with its free concert – will be held on April 11 on the Quai Général-Guisan.

Watches and Wonders Geneva is aimed at all audiences and all ages, with a particular focus on younger generations who have shown a growing interest in the industry. The countdown begins as the whole city is getting ready to once again welcome the watchmaking event of the year!

Online ticketing early February 2024!

EXHIBITING MAISONS
A. LANGE & SÖHNE | ALPINA WATCHES | ANGELUS | ARNOLD & SON | BAUME & MERCIER | BEAUREGARD | BELL & ROSS | BREMONT | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHARLES ZUBER | CHARRIOL | CHOPARD | CHRONOSWISS | CYRUS GENÈVE | CZAPEK & CIE | EBERHARD & CO. | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | FREDERIQUE CONSTANT | GERALD CHARLES | GRAND SEIKO | GRÖNEFELD | H. MOSER & CIE. | HAUTLENCE | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | HYSEK | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET | MONTBLANC | NOMOS GLASHÜTTE | NORQAIN | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PEQUIGNET | PIAGET | RAYMOND WEIL | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE-MARIN | TAG HEUER | TRILOBE | TUDOR | U-BOAT | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH

Watches and Wonders back in Shanghai!

A few months after its master event in Geneva, Watches and Wonders is back on the road. It’s off to China, where the Salon will take place in Shanghai from September 13 to 17, 2023. This third edition will feature 14 exhibiting Maisons and for the first time, open its doors to the public over the weekend.

A showcase of creative and dynamic watchmaking, Watches and Wonders Shanghai confirms the event’s proximity to its audience, as well as its ability to promote the watchmaking industry, giving it visibility through a series of immersive experiences.

Lovers of fine watchmaking will once again gather at the West Bund Art Center within a completely redesigned Pavilion. The first three days will be reserved, by invitation only, for retailers, the press and the brands’ end customers, while the general public is expected to attend for the first time on September 16 and 17, 2023 to experience a journey into the heart of time. Tickets will be available from August via the official Watches and Wonders WeChat mini-program, priced at 150 RMB.

Around the true stars of watchmaking, Watches and Wonders Shanghai has built a 360° itinerary encompassing all its dimensions: themed conferences, expert panels, workshops, and presentations of extraordinary expertise. Among the highlights, the exhibition “What time is it?” by Karine Bauzin, will be travelling from Geneva with a selection of some 40 photos. In this ethnographic work, the Swiss artist and photographer questions our relationship with time through a universal gesture.

Rendezvous in Shanghai in September!

EXHIBITING MAISONS A. LANGE & SÖHNE | ARNOLD & SON | BAUME & MERCIER | CARTIER | CHARRIOL | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | PANERAI | PIAGET | ROGER DUBUIS | SPEAKE-MARIN | U-BOAT | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Website: watchesandwonders.com

Social media #watchesandwonders2023

 

Top 10 Salmon Coloured Dials To Look Out For

Gone are the days of monochrome watches and dull shades of time.

Today the watch scene is a burst with colours that can elevate the beauty of the timepiece. Brands are constantly looking to keep the watch enthusiasts enthralled and clamouring to outdo each other.

Every year there is a trend, yet sometimes, it is just a whiff of an era gone by that reappears in modern context and time.

Salmon Pink:

Is it the new go-to colour? Watch lovers and collectors have mentioned that the colour has been around since the thirties and yet it has made a reappearance lately, and quite vehemently too.

In 2019, when the popularity of salmon dials took off, the colour PANTONE 16-1546, “Living Coral”, was chosen as the year’s colour. The current dials in the market are all variations of the coral shade.

We put out the bait and some extraordinary timepieces caught it. Let us reel in some of the really warm catches that made it to our Salmon list.

A.Lange & Söhne:

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in 18-carat white gold houses a flyback chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a tourbillon with a patented stop-seconds mechanism. Caliber: L952.2 Diameter: 41.5 mm

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Audemars Piguet:

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar houses a “Grande Tapisserie” dial with matching subdials in a Titanium case and is a limited edition of 300 pieces. Caliber: 5134 Diameter: 41 mm Water resistance: 20 m

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Breitling:

This Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 is a chronograph from the premier series with its complete calendar and moon phase. “Datora” is a term used by Breitling and refers to a complete calendar chronograph displaying the day, date, month and the different moon phases. The Datora is powered by the COSC-certified Manufacture Caliber: B25 Diameter: 42 mm Water resistance: 10 m

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Czapek:

The Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake S has the exclusive “Stairway to Eternity” dial. Calibre SXH5 is Czapek’s in-house self-winding mechanical movement. Integrated stainless steel bracelet with Czapek exclusive “Easy Release” system and micro-adjustment device. Calibre: SXH5  Diameter: 38.5 mm Water resistance: 120 m

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Grönefeld:

The Grönefeld 1941 Principia Automatic salmon dial, like the other choices, comes in solid sterling silver, housed in the company’s 1941 case in red gold, white gold or stainless steel. With its self-winding movement, the watch successfully harnesses gravity, making it ideal for daily wear. Calibre: G-06 Diameter: 39.5 mm Water resistance: 30 m

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IWC Schaffhausen:

This IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 comes in a compact stainless-steel case diameter of 40 millimetres, with its characteristic elegance. This simple, organised open dial is visually soothing and the minute’s scale and small seconds at 6 o’clock are pretty unintrusive. The dial is a sunray finish. Calibre: 82200 Diameter: 40.4 mm Water resistance: 30 m

 

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Laurent Ferrier:

This Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit features a salmon pink dial that captures the breath-taking beauty of the sky at sunrise. The architecture of the Grand Sport case in titanium evokes the elegant, timeless curves of racing cars. Calibre: LF619.01 Diameter: 44 mm Water resistance: 100 m

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Montblanc:

Montblanc Heritage Monopusher Chronograph Salmon-coloured domed dial featuring two different finishes gives the timepiece an elegant and sophisticated aesthetic. Comes with black rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes and Minerva Manufacture embossing on the case back. It is a chronograph with central second-hand and a 30-minute counter. Caliber: MB 25.12 Diameter: 42 mm Water resistance: 50 m

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Patek Philippe:

The Patek Philippe 5935A-001 is a self-winding World Time flyback chronograph that indicates the time in 24 time zones. Known as Rose-gilt opaline, the salmon dial is cased in steel with a sapphire crystal case back. It has an exclusive patented mechanism to correct all displays with a single pusher at 10 o’clock. Caliber: CH 28-520 HU Diameter: 41 mm Water resistance: 30 m

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Vacheron Constantin:

The Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5000T/000P-B975 43 MM Platinum contains a column-wheel chronograph and a perpetual calendar. Caliber: 1142 QP Diameter: 43 mm

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20 Days to Watches and Wonders 2022

The moment journalists, retailers and clients of the 38 exhibiting Maisons have been waiting for… Watches and Wonders Geneva will finally open its doors on 30 March 2022, for a week filled with exciting discoveries. A vast digital system has been set up to allow invited guests and the general public to follow online either live or via replay all the action of the Salon, which is already shaping up to be THE watch industry event of the year.

While the press, retailers and guests invited to the Salon can already plan their personalized program on the watchesandwonders.com platform, in Geneva the excitement is reaching a fever pitch. The set-up of the different exhibition areas is already underway to ensure that visitors can be welcomed while respecting health measures. In the surrounding manufactures and ateliers, the watchmakers are putting the final details to the new watches and jewelry collections that will be unveiled by the Maisons on March 30.

For its first physical event under the name Watches and Wonders Geneva – since last year’s event was entirely digital – the Salon will focus on major launches, previews, exceptional pieces and numerous new wonders. Aside from being featured in the Touch & Feel sessions, products will also be at the heart of discussions over many organized events, such as the Morning Show, the panel discussions and the innovative projects unveiled in the LAB.

Broadcast live from the Salon every morning at 8 am CET on the watchesandwonders.com platform and on its YouTube channel, The Morning Show will be presented this year by Olivia Chang, a renowned business journalist. She will host this first morning program with cross conversations between brand leaders and industry experts to follow the news of the Salon and decipher new trends. She will be back again at 7 pm CET on the Late Show, a new rendez-vous that will review the day’s highlights. Also broadcast live and in replay, the program will feature a different guest each day, who will be invited to share his or her favorites from the Salon. The Late Show will also offer a summary of the keynotes from the Maisons held in the Auditorium, along with highlights of the exceptional pieces being unveiled by the 38 exhibiting brands.

A daily 45-minute panel discussion, hosted by watchmaking experts and other influential personalities, will explore the issue of sustainable development in greater depth. This theme, a particularly hot topic at the moment, will be addressed from different angles, such as transparency, responsible sourcing, innovation and the circular economy. Broadcast live from the Salon at 1 pm CET on the watchesandwonders.com platform and on its YouTube channel, the program will also be available in replay.

Located in the center of the Salon, facing the Carré des Horlogers, the LAB has been designed as an ideas laboratory. This space, showcasing nearly 15 projects, will present the technological and digital innovations of the exhibiting Maisons. Highlighting eco- responsible sourcing practices, upcycling, the use of new materials, new energy sources and strategic partnerships with sustainable associations and organizations, the various initiatives will enable visitors to discover all these innovations and gain a better understanding of NFTs (Non-Fungible Token) and the world of metaverse.

Watches and Culture will also curate the ‘Time Design’ exhibition dedicated to the evolution of wristwatch design through the ages. Imagined as a journey through watchmaking creativity and illustrated by more than 100 timepieces presented in showcases designed by students of ECAL (École d’art de Lausanne), the event will also pay tribute to the work of Mr. Gérald Genta. Five pieces produced by students of the HEAD art & design school in Geneva will invite visitors to question the display of time, while an augmented reality experience will immerse the viewer in the history of a few watchmaking icons.

A broadcasting area consisting of two fully equipped studios will be available for the Maisons who wish to stay in touch with those journalists who are unable to travel to Geneva. In addition, booths equipped with a VISIODOME, a system that proved its worth last year as an optimized way of presenting products remotely, will allow the Maisons to share their latest creations with a larger audience.

Everyone is working hard to make this long-awaited edition the greatest watchmaking summit ever held in Geneva! Just 30 days to go before discovering new watches and jewelry releases, previews, major announcements, exceptional pieces and other innovations.

EXHIBITING MAISONS:

| A. LANGE & SÖHNE | BAUME & MERCIER | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | GRAND SEIKO | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | MONTBLANC | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PIAGET | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | TAG HEUER | TUDOR | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH

CARRÉ DES HORLOGERS:

| ANGELUS | ARMIN STROM | ARNOLD & SON | CYRUS GENÈVE | CZAPEK & CIE | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | H. MOSER & CIE. | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE-MARIN | TRILOBE