An historical L.U.C complication: the perpetual calendar with astronomical moon phase in a reshaped aesthetic.
Since being the first ‘calendar and astronomy’ complication presented by Chopard Manufacture in 2005, the L.U.C Lunar One model has remained the only timepiece in its category equipped with a precision orbital moon-phase display featuring a rotating window. The mechanical self-winding L.U.C Calibre 96.13-L with perpetual calendar and astronomical moon-phase function – achieving a rare degree of accuracy guaranteeing a single day’s difference in 122 years – powers two new timepieces whose profile has been reshaped in line with the latest L.U.C aesthetic. Framed by a 40.5 mm-diameter case in ethical 18-carat gold, the hand-guilloché dial demonstrating artisanal expertise is distinguished by highly legible indications, while an ingenious interchangeable strap system offers a variety of styles. While the movement’s accuracy is chronometer-certified, the high-quality finishing of these two L.U.C Lunar One models has also earned them Poinçon de Genève recognition.
L.U.C Calibre 96.13-L: a mere one-day difference in 122 years – astronomical accuracy
In 2005, by introducing a complication for the first time in an evolution of its founding L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L, Chopard Manufacture presented one of its milestones: a large-date perpetual calendar with a degree of astronomical precision to which only a handful of Manufactures can lay claim.
The L.U.C Lunar One timepiece equipped with the L.U.C 96.13.L chronometer-certified movement illustrates the trajectory of the moon with remarkable accuracy. Its perpetual calendar with orbital moon phases clearly indicates the date, day, month and leap years. It also features an additional 24-hour scale. The night star rotates around the small seconds axis, hence the term ‘orbital’. The movement represents the sky as seen from the Northern Hemisphere with the Big Dipper; as well as from the Southern Hemisphere with the Southern Cross. Calibrated by Chopard’s finest watchmaking Artisans, this display boasts astronomical precision: with a time difference of just 57.2 seconds between two moons, it will take 122 years for it to show a one-day discrepancy with the real moon. Only then will it need to be adjusted.
Reflecting Chopard Manufacture’s perpetual quest for slenderness, the L.U.C Lunar One timepiece is also one of the very few self-winding perpetual calendars to feature a micro-rotor. The latter is made of solid gold and integrated into the movement thickness, thereby slimming it down and enabling it to be admired through the sapphire crystal pane fitted on the case-back. Engraved with the L.U.C logo and finely guilloché, this micro-rotor heralds the extreme degree of finishing lavished on L.U.C Calibre 96.13-L – of which all 355 components are produced, hand-decorated and assembled in the Manufacture’s workshops. Thanks to the two stacked barrels of Chopard Twin technology, the L.U.C Lunar One model is also endowed with a 65-hour power reserve.
The Poinçon de Genève: a guarantee of excellence
The L.U.C Lunar One testifies to the finest craftsmanship cultivated by Chopard. Several hundred made-to-measure tools are involved in reworking and hand-trimming each rough-cut component, before manually decorating it using traditional skills – even if it is destined to remain concealed beneath a bridge. Each creation is successively enhanced by chamfering, satin-brushing, polishing, circular graining and Côtes de Genève patterns, before being individually tested and hand-assembled in the workshops. The prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark to which Chopard has been loyal for many years attests to this degree of artisanal skill and meticulous care. This aesthetic and technical certification is validated by an independent body and governed by a law instated by the Canton of Geneva. It imposes peerless criteria of excellence encompassing the case and movement, including their structure, appearance and precision.
A slimmer, reshaped case
While these two new timepieces are joining the L.U.C Lunar One family, they differ from their predecessors with a slimmer case, subtly reshaped in line with the L.U.C collection’s latest aesthetic codes. At 40.5 millimetres in diameter and 11.6 millimetres thick, they fit smoothly on any wrist. Crafted in ethical 18-carat white or rose gold, the case features a bassine shape, meaning its base is narrower than its domed, polished bezel. Reflecting craftsmanship inspired by the pocket watches that emerged from Louis-Ulysse Chopard’s creative heritage in the 19th century, this distinctive profile creates an impressive sense of aesthetic refinement.
This new case with its vertical satin-brushed sides is paired with a curved, fluted crown that is not only elegant but also easy to handle. The slightly domed sapphire crystal perfectly matches the curves of the bezel, giving the watch a rounded, harmonious profile. Another sign of fine craftsmanship is that the lugs are made separately before being welded to the case to ensure a perfect aesthetic result. This reshaped design makes the L.U.C Lunar One a timeless object for watch connoisseurs, and paves the way for the aesthetics of future timepieces in the collection.
The hand-guilloché dial: a strong commitment to craftsmanship
Since the first L.U.C 1860 timepiece was presented in 1997, the L.U.C models’ dials have perpetuated a legacy reflecting the purest watchmaking tradition, in which the art of guilloché has become a collection signature. Having teetered on the brink of extinction during the 1990s, this age-old craft has survived thanks to the efforts of Manufactures such as Chopard, which still owns a few rare guilloché lathes with which specialised artisans guide their burins over fine metal surfaces to adorn them with repeating patterns accurate to a tenth of a millimetre.
Meticulous work is required to ensure that each dial intended for these new L.U.C Lunar one models – available in a choice of deep blue or salmon pink colours – is adorned with a sunburst guilloché pattern radiating from the moon-phase indicator at 6 o’clock, the focal point of this timepiece.
One particularly distinctive feature of the L.U.C Lunar One model is the large twin-aperture date window at 12 o’clock. A concentric snailed pattern runs around the dial periphery, below the minutes track. The Dauphine fusée hands and herringbone-type hour-markers are in white or rose gold matching the case. The two perpetual calendar counters are also snailed, with the exception of the central section of the one located at 9 o’clock. The latter is dedicated to the 24-hour indicator, which also serves as a day/night display. The upper part (day) bears a radiating pattern symbolising the presence of the Sun, while the lower section is engraved with a horizontal motif evoking the serenity of the night. Ultimately, the arrangement of each indication is both aesthetically pleasing and perfectly legible.
Interchangeable straps: a combination for every occasion
For the first time in the Chopard collections, this new model is equipped with an interchangeable strap system enabling its owner to vary styles and adapt to different outfits, occasions and activities. This extremely convenient new system is designed for quick, tool-free swap-outs via the case middle and clasp. The aim is to guarantee the user-friendliness and wearer comfort that are core to the Chopard philosophy. In addition to the two alligator leather and calfskin straps supplied with the timepiece, each Chopard boutique will offer an assortment of additional straps in a variety of textures and colours.
The L.U.C collection: watchmaking excellence
In 1997, Chopard Manufacture launched the first watch to emerge from its watchmaking workshops: the L.U.C 1860, equipped with the L.U.C 96.01-L movement. Since then, through the L.U.C collection, it has accumulated mastery of all the major horological complications. Between Fleurier and Geneva, Chopard Manufacture conceives, develops, produces, assembles, decorates and certifies all its timepieces. Thanks to Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s commitment to watchmaking tradition combined with technical innovation, the Manufacture maintains a high level of finishing by preserving numerous artistic crafts and skills.
L.U.C Lunar One
In ethical 18-carat white gold
Case:
Ethical 18-carat white gold
Total diameter 40.50 mm
Thickness 11.63 mm
Water resistance 30 m
Crown in ethical 18-carat white gold with L.U.C logo 6.60 mm
Bassine-shaped case middle with vertical satin-brushed finishes
Polished bezel and case-back
Transparent exhibition case-back
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Movement:
Mechanical self-winding L.U.C 96.13-L
Number of components 355
Diameter 33.00 mm
Thickness 6.00 mm
Number of jewels 32
Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve 65 hours
Two stacked barrels – Chopard Twin Technology
Three-spoke balance
Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève and circular graining
Guilloché-worked micro-rotor in ethical 22-carat gold with L.U.C logo
Balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve
Chronometer-certified by the COSC
‘Poinçon de Genève’ quality hallmark
Dial and hands:
Dial in ethical 18-carat gold featuring a salmon pink colour obtained by galvanic treatment, sunburst guilloché pattern centred around the moon phase
Navy blue transfers
Herringbone-type hour-markers in ethical 18-carat white gold
Dauphine fusée hours and minutes hands in ethical 18-carat white gold
Baton-type day and month hands in ethical 18-carat white gold
Day/night and year indicated by triangles in ethical 18-carat white gold
Functions and displays:
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Perpetual calendar with day, date, month and leap-year cycle
Month and leap-year display at 3 o’clock
Small seconds a 6 o’clock
High-precision moon phases appearing in a rotating aperture (orbital moon) for Northern and Southern hemispheres, at 6 o’clock
24-hour scale and day of the week at 9 o’clock
Semi-instantaneous twin-aperture large date display at 12 o’clock
Strap and buckle:
Hand-sewn navy blue alligator leather with tone-on-tone stitching, or blue grained calfskin with tone-on-one stitching
Pin buckle in ethical 18-carat white gold
Ref. 161951-1002 – in ethical 18-carat white gold with salmon pink dial
L.U.C Lunar One
In ethical 18-carat rose gold
Case:
Ethical 18-carat rose gold
Total diameter 40.50 mm
Thickness 11.63 mm
Water resistance 30 m
Crown in ethical 18-carat rose gold with L.U.C logo 6.60 mm
Bassine-shaped case middle with vertical satin-brushed finishes
Polished bezel and case-back
Transparent exhibition case-back
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal
Movement:
Mechanical self-winding L.U.C 96.13-L
Number of components 355
Diameter 33.00 mm
Thickness 6.00 mm
Number of jewels 32
Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve 65 hours
Two stacked barrels – Chopard Twin Technology
Three-spoke balance
Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève and circular graining
Guilloché-worked micro-rotor in ethical 22-carat gold with L.U.C logo
Balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve
Chronometer-certified by the COSC
‘Poinçon de Genève’ quality hallmark
Dial and hands:
Dial in ethical 18-carat gold featuring a blue colour obtained by galvanic treatment, sunburst guilloché pattern centred around the moon phase
White transfers
Herringbone-type hour-markers in ethical 18-carat rose gold
Dauphine fusée hours and minutes hands in ethical 18-carat rose gold
Baton-type day and month hands in ethical 18-carat rose gold
Day/night and year indicated by triangles in ethical 18-carat rose gold
Functions and displays:
Central display of the hours and minutes
Perpetual calendar with day, date, month and leap-year cycle
Month and leap-year display at 3 o’clock
Small seconds a 6 o’clock
High-precision moon phases appearing in a rotating aperture (orbital moon) for Northern and Southern hemispheres, at 6 o’clock
24-hour scale and day of the week at 9 o’clock
Semi-instantaneous twin-aperture large date display at 12 o’clock
Strap and buckle:
Hand-sewn brown alligator leather with tone-on-tone stitching, or anthracite grained calfskin with tone-on-one stitching
Pin buckle in ethical 18-carat rose gold
Ref. 161951-5001 – in ethical 18-carat rose gold with blue dial
