The Black Bay 58 has earned a reputation as an enthusiast’s favourite, and now the watch is getting the Master Chronometer treatment. For the first time, the new all-burgundy Black Bay 58 also comes on a 5-link bracelet with T-fit, too.
The Black Bay 58 is named after the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres, the reference 7924, dubbed the “Big Crown”, was introduced. Among other aesthetic allusions to this famous historic watch, this model has a 39mm diameter case, in keeping with the characteristic proportions of the 1950s. This new edition of the Black Bay 58 retains all the core design elements from TUDOR throughout the ages and includes aesthetic notes from a prototype TUDOR Submariner ref. 79190 developed in the ‘90s. The watch boasted a brilliant burgundy dial with a matching bezel. It never saw production, but this design now lives on in the form of a brand-new Black Bay 58. On top of the new design, the new Black Bay 58 gets the Master Chronometer certification, one of the industry’s most demanding standards in terms of chronometry and resistance to magnetic fields. Each fully assembled watch is tested in Switzerland by the Federal Institute of Metrology or METAS. To tie the whole package together, the new Black Bay 58 is now available on a 5-link bracelet, a 3-link bracelet, or a rubber strap. All three have TUDOR’s rapid adjustment system known as T-fit, making the watch more wearable than ever before.
KEY POINTS
1. “Original” Black Bay 58 proportions of a 39mm case in stainless steel with a brilliant burgundy bezel insert
2. Subtly domed satin radial-brushed burgundy dial with silver accents
3. “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
4. Manufacture Calibre MT5400-U, with a silicon hairspring and a 65-hour power reserve
5. Master Chronometer certified by METAS
6. A choice between a stainless steel 5-link bracelet, stainless steel 3-link “rivet-style” bracelet, or a rubber strap, all with TUDOR “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp
7. Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required
TUDOR QUALITY
With the introduction of this brand-new Black Bay 58, TUDOR has successfully submitted yet another model for tests to obtain Master Chronometer certification. This is part of a constant bid to improve the quality of its products and another step towards a future where the entire TUDOR collection will be Master Chronometer certified. This certification, offered by a Swiss government body, METAS, requires a substantial number of changes to a regular TUDOR Manufacture Calibre and comes as an independent confirmation of the exceptional quality of the TUDOR watches.
COMPREHENSIVE INDEPENDENT CERTIFICATION AND HIGH STANDARDS
METAS Master Chronometer certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision. In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0/+5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4/+6) carried out on a single movement and a second less than TUDOR’s internal standard (-2/+4), which is applied to the brand’s models with a Manufacture Calibre. The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Finally, it also guarantees the waterproofness claimed by the manufacturer as well as the power reserve. It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
CRITERIA AND TESTS FOR MASTER CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION BY METAS
All the tests and prerequisites leading to the Master Chronometer certification, which the Black Bay has achieved, are summarised below:
Swiss Made
Certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC)
Precision at two temperatures, in six positions and at two levels of power reserve: 100% and 33%
Smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and precision following exposure
Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)
65-hour power reserve
EMBLEMATIC LOOK
The Black Bay remains one of TUDOR’s most recognized and recognizable lines. In the Black Bay 58, the case offers the proportions of a 39mm case with a thinner profile. The burgundy unidirectional rotatable bezel offers very prehensible sides and its insert shows subtly curved numerals aligning with the outline of the outer ring. However, the aesthetic details don’t stop at case dimensions and bezel. The seconds hand recalls the look of the early diving watches of the brand with a lollipop design, while the satin burgundy dial is softly radial-brushed for a very subtle shine under direct light. Ergonomics have evolved as well, with a redesigned crown, reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand’s historical technical watches, that is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible.
3-LINK “RIVET-STYLE” BRACELET, 5-LINK BRACELET, OR RUBBER STRAP, ALL WITH “T-FIT”
The 3-link “rivet-style” bracelet of the Black Bay 58 model visually refers to the riveted bracelets used by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having rivet heads visible on the side of the links. These bracelets also had a distinct stepped design, where every link, going from the clasp, was slightly larger than the previous one. These two aesthetic elements appear on today’s version, which combines modern manufacturing methods with solid links and “rivets” with laser-finished heads. This bracelet, along with the 5-link stainless steel bracelet, also comes with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp, an ingenuous system for rapid length adjustment. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical system allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp also features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.
A cut-to-size black rubber strap option is also available for the Black Bay 58. It comes in three sizes, fitted with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp for the perfect fit. On the inside, it features the signature snowflake motif for added grip, and it is form-fitted specifically for this model.
THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY
The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its shoulderless crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.
The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together 70 years of TUDOR dive watches, whilst at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present. It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finishes are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.
THE TUDOR MANUFACTURE
Every TUDOR watch is assembled and fully tested to TUDOR’s superior standards at the new TUDOR Manufacture located in Le Locle, Switzerland. This new state-of-the-art facility, bringing together the know-how of watchmakers with the best in production management and automated testing systems, was completed in 2021 after three years of construction. All decked out in TUDOR red, the Manufacture spans over four levels totalling 5,500 square meters and is physically and visually connected to the neighbouring Kenissi Manufacture, the TUDOR movement production facility founded in 2016. With Kenissi and a network of TUDOR-owned affiliates, the brand has been able to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibres. As a consequence, TUDOR now fully masters the manufacturing of strategic components and can guarantee their quality.
THE TUDOR GUARANTEE
Since its creation by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and in line with his vision of an ideal watchmaking product, TUDOR has never stopped producing the most robust, durable, reliable and precise watches in existence today. Bolstered by this experience, and confident in the knowledge of the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee on all its products. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered or any periodic maintenance checks to be performed and is transferable should the watch change ownership during coverage. TUDOR also recommends that its watches should be serviced approximately every 10 years depending on the model and the extent of its use on a day-to-day basis.
TUDOR IS “BORN TO DARE”
In 2017, TUDOR launched a new campaign with the “Born To Dare” signature. It reflects both the history of the brand and what it stands for today. It tells the adventures of individuals who have achieved the extraordinary on land, on ice, in the air and underwater, with a TUDOR watch on their wrists. It also refers to the vision of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of TUDOR, who manufactured TUDOR watches to withstand the most extreme conditions, watches made for the most daring lifestyles. It is testimony to TUDOR’s singular approach to watchmaking, which has made it what it is today. At the cutting edge of the watchmaking industry, its innovations are now essential benchmarks. The TUDOR “Born To Dare” spirit is supported throughout the world by first class ambassadors, whose achievements result directly from a daring approach to life.
REF M7939A1A0RU
CASE
39mm stainless steel case with polished and satin finishes
BEZEL
Unidirectional rotatable bezel in stainless steel with burgundy anodised aluminium insert
WINDING CROWN
Stainless steel screw-down winding crown with the TUDOR rose in relief 
DIAL
Burgundy, domed, with applied hour markers
CRYSTAL
Domed sapphire crystal
WATERPROOFNESS
Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)
BRACELET
5-link or 3-link “rivet-style” stainless steel bracelet with polished and satin finishes or rubber strap, all with TUDOR “T-fit” clasp
MOVEMENT
Manufacture Calibre MT5400-U (COSC and METAS certified)
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
POWER RESERVE
Certified 65 hours by METAS
PRECISION
Swiss Chronometer officially certified by COSC
(Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute)
Master Chronometer Certification from METAS
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minute and seconds hands
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
OSCILLATOR
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
TOTAL DIAMETER
30.3mm
THICKNESS
4.9mm
JEWELS
27 jewels
