Jaeger-LeCoultre continues its pursuit of precision in mechanics and aesthetics with three new interpretations of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985. Two are cased in Platinum (950/1000) with an eye-catching blue dial, one with a polished bezel and one with a diamond-set bezel, and the third is cased in 18k pink gold (750/1000) with a brown dial. Developed in 2013, Calibre 985 unites a perpetual calendar and moon phase display with the fascination of a flying tourbillon equipped with a cylindrical hairspring.
Thank you for reading this post, don't forget to subscribe!Inspired by the quest for precision
The pursuit of precision at Jaeger-LeCoultre is driven by the values of its founder, Antoine LeCoultre. His obsession with accuracy, not only in the design and structure of his calibres, but also in the finishing, assembly and decoration of each case and dial, has inspired every succeeding generation to continue the journey. Calibre 985, incorporating a tourbillon with a cylindrical hairspring, masterfully demonstrates the Manufacture’s expertise in this quest for precision.
The regulating organ – comprising the balance wheel, hairspring and escapement – is one of the most important parts of a movement as it governs the accuracy of timekeeping. Having focused considerable effort for many years on researching the effect of incorporating tourbillons into the regulating organ and on the impact of differently shaped hairsprings, Jaeger-LeCoultre has a deep understanding of how this affects the accuracy of the watch. The expansion and contraction of the hairspring controls the back-and-forth oscillations of the balance wheel, and it is crucial that these oscillations are concentric in order to limit the impact of both gravity and magnetism.
The Manufacture’s engineers discovered that the shape and attachment (terminal curves) of a hairspring determine the way it contracts and expands. They determined that different shapes oscillate differently, according to the specific construction of the regulating organ in a particular calibre. This has prompted the development of hairsprings in S-shape, spherical, semi-spherical and cylindrical forms. Being one of the very few Manufactures able to shape its own hairsprings in-house gives La Grande Maison a distinct advantage in this respect.
The helical or cylindrical form of the hairspring was invented in 1776 then largely forgotten until the 21st century. The ends of the spring coil inwards and it offers enhanced isochronic performance, beating concentrically in every position, regardless of the amplitude (the back-and-forth swing of the balance wheel) or remaining power reserve. This is the hairspring used in Calibre 985.
Calibre 985 – The precision of complications and decoration
A complex and sophisticated movement entirely developed and produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre, Calibre 985 is composed of 431 parts, of which the flying tourbillon alone comprises 83 components. Crafted in titanium, it weighs just 0.386 grams. The enhanced isochronism of the cylindrical hairspring made it the right choice for this movement, which delivers all the functions of a perpetual calendar, as well as a moon phase that will require no adjustment for 122 years.
On the reverse side of the watch, the sapphire crystal case back reveals the exceptional precision of the Haute Horlogerie finishes on the movement, including blued screws, sunrayed Côtes de Genève, snailing and hand-bevelling. The winding rotor in 22k rose gold (916/1000) is decorated with sunray engraving and a reproduction of the gold medal awarded to Antoine LeCoultre at the 1851 Great Exhibition in London for his development of precisely calibrated stamping, cutting machines and mechanical lathes which allowed the components’ interchangeability.
Exceptional cases in platinum and in pink gold with a signature dial
Sophisticated in design and complex in structure, the Master Grande Tradition case consists of more than 80 components. With screwed in lugs and a mix of polished, brushed and micro-blasted surfaces, the case is reserved for only the Maison’s most complex calibres.
The warm glow of the pink gold case is complemented by the soft brown of the corresponding dial, while the cool tones of the platinum case create a striking contrast with the rich blue dial, enhanced by the high polish of the bezel. On the second platinum-cased model, the colour contrast is amplified by diamonds. The bezel is set with 72 baguette-cut diamonds, making a total of approximately 3.4 carats – the subject of 15 hours of gem-setting work in the Manufacture’s own Métiers Rares™ atelier.
A hand-bevelled bridge spans across the dial, with the area surrounding the tourbillon set below the rest of the dial for both aesthetic effect and technical reasons. Tiny details and subtle colour variations add visual interest: the minute track and periphery of each sub-dial are micro-blasted, the inside of the sub-dials is opaline, appearing to change colour in different lights, and the three-dimensional letters and numerals of the calendar indications are laser-engraved in relief, to stand out against their background. Given the emphasis on timekeeping precision, the seconds are indicated on an arc-shaped 20-second scale below the tourbillon aperture – with the three blue hands mounted on the tourbillon cage each measuring a 20-second interval as the tourbillon completes a rotation around its axis every 60 seconds.
The outstanding Master Grande Tradition watch calibres, each comprising multiple complications and several hundred components, epitomise La Grande Maison’s spirit of innovation and devotion to precision. This complexity is complemented by remarkable precision in the decoration and finishing of both movement components and habillage. The new dials of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 are elegant and pure, while the sapphire crystal case back offers a glimpse into true watchmaking mastery.
TECHNICAL DETAILS
MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 985
Case: Platinum (950/1000)
Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 13.27 mm thick
Calibre: Automatic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985
Functions: Hours, minutes, cylindrical flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, (Day, date, month, year), moon phases, Night & Day
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Dial: Blue
Caseback: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 bar
Strap: Blue alligator with small scale alligator lining, pin buckle
Reference: Q5246580
MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 985
Case: Platinum (950/1000)
Dimensions: 72 baguette-cut diamonds (3.4 carats)
Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 13.27 mm thick
Calibre: Automatic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985
Functions: Hours, minutes, cylindrical flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, (Day, date, month, year), moon phases, Night & Day
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Dial: Blue
Caseback: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 bar
Strap: Blue alligator with small scale alligator lining, pin buckle
Reference: Q5246508
MASTER GRANDE TRADITION CALIBRE 985
Case: Pink Gold (18k – 750/1000)
Dimensions: 42mm diameter x 13.27mm thick
Calibre: Automatic, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 985
Functions: Hours, minutes, cylindrical flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, (Day, date, month, year), moon phases, Night & Day
Frequency: 28,800 vph
Power Reserve: 45 hours
Dial: Brown
Caseback: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 bar
Strap: Brown alligator with small scale alligator lining, double folding buckle
Reference: Q5242461
