From Earth’s treasures to dazzling Haute Joaillerie: a commitment to traceability, bold creativity and masterful craftsmanship
Chopard is unveiling its latest opus of the Insofu Emerald: an extraordinary fusion uniting the forces of nature, the concern for traceable and sustainable luxury, and the Maison’s boundless creativity to give birth to a one-of-a-kind Haute Joaillerie collection that is as mesmerising as it is rich in significance.
For the second time in its history, Chopard has taken the bold step of devising an Haute Joaillerie collection, not from a set of cut and polished gemstones, but instead from a raw stone, full of both promise and uncertainties. Such a scheme is unusual for a jeweller, but to Chopard, it represents a guarantee of traceability, and an opportunity to work in closer collaboration with those at the beginning of the supply chain.
After the Garden of Kalahari Collection – born from a 342-carat rough diamond in 2017 – the story of the Insofu Collection began in 2022 in Paris, when Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s visionary Co-President and Artistic Director, unveiled an astonishing 6,225-carat rough emerald, unearthed in Zambia a few years prior. Awestruck, the miners named it Insofu, meaning “elephant” in the local Bemba language — a nod to its trunk-like shape and unprecedented colossal size. Captivated in turn by its vivid colour, shifting hues, and unique character, Caroline Scheufele acquired the gem, sure it would yield stones destined to become the centrepiece of extraordinary jewels. Unlike a rough diamond, whose yield in terms of diamond types and carats can be determined by specific tools with scientific precision, a rough emerald is an even bolder undertaking, as the stone only reveals its true potential during the fraught cutting process.
Chopard brought the world’s most skilled gem-cutters from India to its Geneva workshops to meticulously study the gem and propose cuts and facets to reveal its inherent beauty, while preserving its unique soul. This proved to be a lengthy and delicate venture lasting nearly a year, given emeralds are notoriously fragile and demand the utmost expertise. Their internal inclusions, known as “jardin,” require careful handling: cutting too close to them may create fractures that can spread across the gem. Moreover, it is essential to ensure the inclusions’ position does not overshadow the stone’s brilliance. Ultimately, the Insofu gem yielded 850 carats of breathtaking emeralds, each a testament to the artisans’ unparalleled skill and dedication.
The first chapter of the Insofu Collection debuted last year during Oscars week, with the release of a parure composed of a necklace, a pair of earrings and a ring. This capsule collection paired emeralds from Insofu with juicy-red rubellites and touches of sky blue turquoise, offering a glimpse into Chopard’s bold creative vision for this exceptional stone.
This year, Chopard unveils a new chapter with an Haute Joaillerie collection of 15 exquisite pieces — five pairs of earrings, four necklaces, three rings, a bracelet and a jewellery watch. Each jewel reflects a different facet of the Insofu Emerald’s character, drawing influences from the organic and fluid lines of nature, abstract forms, and the rigorous elegance of Art Deco. Their unifying element lies in the embodiment of the joie de vivre so vividly portrayed by Francis Scott Fitzgerald in The Great Gatsby.
One gem, a multitude of jewels
At the heart of the Collection is an elephant-shaped pendant – a tribute to the name Insofu. This signature piece features emeralds of various shapes and sizes, framed by shimmering diamonds that form the elephant’s tusks. It is suspended from a long chain interspersed with emeralds and diamonds. Notably, the elephant’s trunk is raised upward – a gesture replete with symbolism, representing prosperity and good fortune.
The collection also includes elegant Art Deco-inspired chokers, flowing long necklaces almost grazing the waist, evoking the audacity of the Roaring Twenties, a statement cuff, imposing cocktail rings, and showstopping earrings. The extravagance of the era vividly depicted by Francis Scott Fitzgerald’s masterpiece The Great Gatsby (1925) is expressed through a one-of-a-kind ensemble of four necklaces, forming a singular set — endless possibilities for styling that celebrate personal expression. At its heart is a refined diamond choker, twinkling with a vibrant 2.50-carat square-cut emerald. This is elegantly complemented by a second necklace festooned with pink sapphires and emeralds, holding an extraordinary 15.53-carat octagonal emerald. Bringing an element of fluidity to the set, a long necklace interlaces emeralds, pearls, and diamonds, creating a captivating harmony of textures and colours. A delicate sautoir of pink pearls adds a touch of softness to this remarkable set and perfectly balances out the bolder pieces.
Against a backdrop of tightly woven pearls, a vertical motif of emerald-studded foliage gracefully weaves through a statement cuff, delicately embracing vibrant emerald-cut tsavorites. The smooth, soft, rounded pearls juxtaposed against the sharp facets of the stones create a refined interplay of textures and forms. The design elegantly unites the sea, embodied by the pearls, and the earth, represented by the verdant leaves. Together, they recall the symbiosis of these two realms of nature.
“In every stone lies a story, and my role is to listen and honour the natural magic they carry as treasures from the Earth,” says Caroline Scheufele. “With the Insofu Collection, it was about respecting this inherent beauty. I chose the finest quality stones from the heart of the emerald, pairing them with diamonds, pink sapphires, and pearls”.
A creative soul with multiple talents, who thinks of women’s beauty holistically, Caroline Scheufele has chosen to accompany this collection with five matching gowns showcasing the craftsmanship of Caroline’s Couture – her collection of couture silhouettes designed as a dialogue between fashion and jewellery. The Insofu Collection thus brings together all the Métiers d’Art preserved by Chopard’s artisans.
Traceability: a sustainable achievement
Convinced that ethics and aesthetics must coexist, Chopard pioneered the use of the Provenance Proof’s Emerald Paternity Test developed by Gübelin Gem Lab. This cutting-edge method involves injecting DNA-based nanoparticles into the gem’s natural fissures which remain intact through cutting and polishing. This marking is permanent, allowing the rough stone to be identified for life. Even decades from now, a simple examination will trace the jewels to their original rough gem, safeguarding an intact link to their exact origin. This innovative technology further elevates Chopard’s sustainability standards, most notably as the Maison has used 100% ethical gold in all its jewellery and watches since July 2018.
“Traceability is more than a technical advancement; it is an ethical achievement,” Caroline Scheufele explains. “The Insofu Collection reflects our belief that true beauty results from a genuine commitment to society and ethical practices.”
Supporting community and conservation projects
Gemfields, the mining company that unearthed Insofu in the Kagem mine in Zambia, has long participated in the development of the communities where its mines operate and championed wildlife conservation projects. At the Kagem Mine, Gemfields funds projects that benefit education, healthcare, and livelihoods, as well as initiatives to protect Zambia’s flora and fauna. Chopard’s collaboration with Gemfields ensures that the Insofu Collection contributes to these meaningful initiatives, aligning with the Maison’s dedication positively impacting society.
Elephant family: a meaningful collaboration
Caroline Scheufele’s decision to unveil this collection in collaboration with the charity Elephant Family is much more than an obvious reference to the name of the gem – (Insofu meaning ‘elephant’). Linking the discovery of this natural marvel with a meaningful cause further underscores Chopard’s genuine dedication to sustainable luxury, as well as Caroline Scheufele long-standing passion for nature and endangered animals. The charitable dimension imbues this collection with profound meaning, perfectly complementing the Maison’s pioneering spirit in innovation, creativity, and the pursuit of sustainable luxury. Part of the profits from each piece sold in the collection will be donated to support Elephant Family and its actions.
Elephant Family exclusively works in partnership with conservation experts on the ground to tackle the challenges facing Asia’s wildlife and the indigenous communities that live alongside them. As human populations expand and natural habitats shrink, people and animals are fighting a battle for food and space. Its efforts focus on mitigating human-elephant conflict, safeguarding migratory corridors, and fostering community engagement to promote a culture of coexistence. Elephant Family is uniquely positioned to support communities to thrive alongside wildlife, and to ensure that Asia’s biodiverse landscapes remain truly wild for generations to come.
“The final reveal of the Insofu Collection is a moment I have long awaited, one that could only be realised by aligning it with a meaningful cause to protect wildlife and nature – passions that have been close to my heart for many years,” says Caroline Scheufele. “I am deeply grateful to everyone involved – from the miners and stone cutters to our jewellery artisans – who contributed to shaping the extraordinary destiny of this unique gem. I also extend my heartfelt thanks to the Elephant Family for this collaboration, which I hope will help shed light on the vital importance of conservation.”
Chopard’s pioneering spirit
Purchasing rough stones is a rarity for jewellery Maisons, yet Chopard demonstrates its pioneering spirit with the acquisition of this remarkable gem, which also incorporates the most advanced technology in traceability— a testament to Chopard’s enduring passion for exceptional gemstones and openness to the future.
In 2017, the Maison unveiled the Garden of Kalahari collection, created exclusively from an extraordinary 342-carat rough diamond, responsibly sourced and cut into several D-flawless diamonds of unmatched brilliance.
The latest collection, comprising 15 exquisite pieces, stands as a masterpiece born of the collective expertise of over 30 artisans from Chopard’s Haute Joaillerie workshops, as well as specialised gem-cutters from India. With Insofu, Chopard has ensured comprehensive oversight of every step in its journey, from its raw state to the final creation. Furthermore, by overseeing every stage of the jewellery-making process in-house – from cutting gemstones and casting ethical gold to prototyping, gem-setting, and polishing – the workshops uphold an unbroken chain of traceability and are able to guarantee the most exceptional craftsmanship in pursuit of Chopard’s journey to sustainable luxury.
