In this exclusive EyesOnTime conversation, Federico Ziviani reflects on innovation, heritage, and how Gerald Charles is shaping the future of modern independent watchmaking.
Thank you for reading this post, don't forget to subscribe!Introduction: Federico Ziviani – Ceo Gerald Charles
Born and raised in Milan, Federico Ziviani has grown up surrounded by fine watchmaking. His father, Franco Ziviani, was a long-standing distributor for Audemars Piguet, introducing Federico early to the discipline, culture, and craftsmanship of haute horlogerie.
After earning a degree in Business Administration and Management from Bayes Business School, Federico completed a Master of Science in Computer Science at University College London, specialising in machine learning, artificial intelligence, and blockchain networks. This rare combination of heritage, business insight, and advanced technology now defines his leadership approach.
In 2019, he became General Manager of Gerald Charles, a Maison founded in 2000 by Gérald Charles Genta in close collaboration with the Ziviani family. In 2023, he was appointed CEO.
EyesOnTime met Federico Ziviani at Dubai Watch Week to discuss innovation, heritage, and the future of Gerald Charles.
Breaking Rules the Right Way: Reinventing Watchmaking Finishing
EyesOnTime: Gerald Genta was known for breaking rules. What rule in watchmaking you feel most tempted to break next as Gerald Charles?
Federico Ziviani:
We are very focused on reinventing modern watchmaking finishing. A strong example of this is Meta-Guilloché, a new type of dial finishing that evolves from traditional guilloché.
Classical guilloché is executed using historic machines. Meta-Guilloché, instead, is created through a contemporary process we developed together with engineers coming from biotechnology. Using this method, we engrave more than 200,000 micro-lines on a single dial, creating a light reflection that is up to ten times brighter than traditional guilloché.
We introduced this finishing on our anniversary Jumping Hour watch. It represents our broader philosophy: respecting legacy while bringing it forward through modern engineering. And there will be many more innovations like this in the future.
Which Watch Would Surprise Gérald Charles Genta Today?
EyesOnTime: If you could bring Genta into the atelier today and show him one recent Gerald Charles watch, which one do you think he would be most surprised by and why?
Federico Ziviani:
I believe he would be very happy to see the Masterlink.
This was the last integrated bracelet he designed, originally created as a unique piece in 2007 — fully gem-set and made with around 40 carats of gold. What we have done is reinterpret that vision into a steel version that is simpler to wear and perfectly suited to everyday life.
It remains true to his original idea while expressing it in a contemporary way.
Beyond Design: Correcting a Common Misconception
EyesOnTime: Gerald Charles operates in an interesting space, niche yet globally recognized. What is a misconception people still have about the brand that you wish you could correct once and for all?
Federico Ziviani:
Many people are immediately attracted by our design, which is very distinctive. What I would love them to appreciate even more is the depth of engineering and watchmaking behind our creations.
For us, engineering comes first. Design follows the technical architecture. A good example is the Masterlink: achieving a slim 2.7mm profile, a micro-rotor movement, 100 metres of water resistance, and excellent wearability requires advanced watchmaking expertise.
This savoir-faire is at the heart of Gerald Charles.
Form and Freedom: The Art of Wearing Time
EyesOnTime: As the brand scales up, how do you avoid creating too much demand culture where scarcity becomes the story instead of the watch?
Federico Ziviani:
As Gerald Charles grows, its approach remains deliberately grounded. The Maison has never pursued scarcity as a narrative device, nor demand as an end in itself. The focus is singular: creating the best watch possible.
And today, the definition of the best watch has evolved. Luxury is no longer weight or fragility — it is comfort, freedom, and confidence in motion. A Gerald Charles is designed to remain on the wrist whether one is swimming, travelling, playing sport, or attending a formal evening. It is a watch that adapts instinctively to life, rather than asking life to adapt to it.
Scarcity, therefore, is not engineered — it is inherent. The asymmetric architecture of the case and bracelet, the complexity of the finishing, and the hundreds of components within each movement require a level of hand craftsmanship that cannot be industrialised without compromise. Production is naturally limited by the standards the Maison refuses to dilute.
Growth at Gerald Charles is not about producing more watches. It is about preserving the soul of watchmaking where engineering, ergonomics, and design coexist — uncompromised.
Inside the Genta Archive: Building for the Next Century
EyesOnTime: You have access to a deep archive of Genta sketches. What’s the most unexpected idea that you’ve discovered in that archive, that the world hasn’t seen yet?
Federico Ziviani:
The archive is incredibly rich, with many ideas that have not yet been seen by the world. Visitors can already get a glimpse of this universe at our museum in Dubai, where they can discover different shapes beyond the Maestro that Gérald created.
In the sketches, there are fascinating complications, beautifully skeletonised bridges, and designs that remain highly relevant today. This patrimony gives us the foundation to build Gerald Charles for the next 100 years.
Evolving an Icon: The Maestro Case and Modern Complications
EyesOnTime: The Maestro case is already an icon. What design challenge keeps you up at night when trying to evolve something that collectors consider untouchable?
Federico Ziviani:
The product is always at the centre of our thinking. We constantly want to make our watches more interesting and more expressive from a watchmaking perspective.
We have a clear plan to introduce one new complication every year, and each of these will be a modern reinterpretation rather than a traditional execution. Our goal is that the next best Gerald Charles watch is always the one still to come.
The Geneva Atelier: More Than a Manufacture
EyesOnTime: You recently opened the Geneva Atelier with a museum-style space. Beyond watches, what emotion or idea do you want visitors to walk away with?
Federico Ziviani:
I want visitors to leave with a strong sense of family. The Atelier is designed like our home.
Our family created Gerald Charles together with Gérald Charles Genta in 2000, and my father had been close friends with him since the 1980s. Gerald created this brand out of pure passion, and passion is what we want people to feel when they visit us.
We put our soul into every watch — the soul of our watchmakers, of my father, of myself, and of our entire team. When visitors come to Geneva, they experience Swiss-Italian hospitality, great food, great conversations, and direct interaction with our watchmakers, who take the time to explain their craft in an open and authentic way.
Looking Ahead: What Must Never Change
EyesOnTime: When you imagine Gerald Charles 20 years from now, what is the one element you hope remains exactly the same and the one element you hope is radically different?
Federico Ziviani:
What will remain the same — not just for 20 years, but for the next 100 years — is our ambition to create the best possible watches and to keep innovating.
Innovation is how we continue to create value and meaning. We are very happy with what we are building today. Being at Dubai Watch Week with a standalone independent booth, a museum, a workshop, and spaces to educate collectors reflects what we believe in.
What we have at Gerald Charles is a treasure of immense historical and creative value, and our responsibility is to cultivate it for generations to come.
Closing Perspective
Through engineering-led innovation, deep respect for heritage, and a clear long-term vision, Gerald Charles continues to evolve as a modern independent Maison. Under Federico Ziviani’s leadership, the spirit of Gérald Charles Genta remains expressive, contemporary, and firmly focused on the future.
