When Two Rare Crafts Meet on a Watch Dial
Independent watchmaker AWAKE has introduced the new Sơn Mài – Guilloché Main collection, a series that brings together two traditional decorative arts rarely seen at this level of execution in contemporary watchmaking: hand-operated guilloché engraving and Vietnamese Sơn Mài lacquer work.
Thank you for reading this post, don't forget to subscribe!The collection also marks the debut of a new 38 mm case for the brand, shifting AWAKE toward more compact and classically proportioned watchmaking while maintaining a distinctly modern design language. Limited to 200 pieces each across three dial variations, the collection focuses heavily on craftsmanship, texture, and light interaction rather than excessive complication or overt luxury cues.
A Rare Combination of Decorative Arts
What makes the collection notable is the combination of two highly specialized crafts executed by separate artisan workshops across Europe and Asia. AWAKE collaborates with the Renzetti family in Italy for the guilloché work and with master lacquer artisans in Vietnam for the Sơn Mài finishing.
The guilloché patterns are created entirely by hand using historic straight-line and rose-engine machines dating back to the 19th century. Unlike stamped or CNC-generated textures commonly seen today, these patterns rely entirely on manual control, with artisans simultaneously guiding both the dial and cutting tool to engrave hundreds of precise grooves into the metal surface.
Once engraved, the dials are sent to Hanoi where layers of natural Sơn Mài lacquer are applied and polished repeatedly to create depth, transparency, and shifting color gradients. Derived from the sap of the Rhus Verniciflua tree, the lacquer develops a distinctive visual richness that changes depending on lighting conditions.
The result is a dial construction that feels more architectural than decorative. Rather than sitting on top of the guilloché, the lacquer amplifies the engraved patterns underneath, creating a layered surface that changes character throughout the day.
Three Celestial-Inspired Dial Variations
The collection is offered in three executions, each inspired by different atmospheric and celestial phenomena.
Sunset
The “Sunset” model features a drapé-moiré guilloché pattern inspired by wave-like ocean movement. Around one hundred engraved grooves create flowing textures beneath layered lacquer shades of pink, violet, and blue. The final effect resembles fading light reflecting across water during sunset conditions.
Alba
The “Alba” edition takes inspiration from sunrise energy through a helical guilloché motif designed to evoke movement and momentum. Warm lacquer tones intensify the engraved geometry underneath, producing a more dynamic and radiant visual profile.
Borealis
The “Borealis” dial uses a radiant guilloché pattern combined with cool-toned lacquer gradients intended to mirror the shifting reflections of the Northern Lights. Under changing light, the dial develops strong tonal transitions and pronounced depth.
Rather than treating color as a simple aesthetic choice, AWAKE uses lacquer almost like a lens over the engraved metal surface, allowing the dial texture to evolve depending on viewing angle and ambient light.
A More Refined Case Design
The introduction of the 38 mm stainless steel case represents a significant design evolution for the brand. With a lug-to-lug measurement of 44.75 mm and a thickness of 11.5 mm including the crystal, the proportions position the watch firmly within the growing preference for smaller, more wearable case sizes.
The case combines polished and brushed surfaces with a concave bezel and softly curved lugs that reference mid-century watch design without feeling overtly vintage. A domed sapphire crystal enhances the dial presentation, while the redesigned screw-down crown now delivers 100 meters of water resistance.
AWAKE has also introduced a new handwritten logo and emblem for the collection, emphasizing the brand’s growing focus on artisanal craftsmanship and cultural storytelling. Thankfully, the branding remains understated and complements the watch rather than competing with it.
Night-Time Legibility Without Sacrificing Dial Integrity
One of the more thoughtful technical details in the collection is the luminous execution. The hands and indices use Super-LumiNova BGW9 combined with steel caps featuring brushed, polished, and engraved finishing.
This construction allows the lume to remain visually discreet during daylight while still delivering strong night-time visibility. More importantly, it preserves the visual purity of the dial, ensuring the lacquer and guilloché work remain the dominant elements.
La Joux-Perret G101 Movement
Powering the collection is the Swiss-made La Joux-Perret G101 automatic calibre with a 68-hour power reserve.
The movement features a custom tungsten rotor finished with alternating brushed, polished, and micro-blasted surfaces. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the calibre reinforces the collection’s balance between decorative craftsmanship and practical modern watchmaking.
While the watches are clearly dial-focused creations, the use of the G101 gives the collection strong everyday usability and reliability, rather than positioning it purely as an artistic object.
Jean Rousseau Straps and Wearability
The collection is paired with Alcantara straps produced by French strap specialist Jean Rousseau. Available in green, violet, or orange, the straps feature colored stitching, rubberized calfskin lining, curved quick-release spring bars, and AWAKE’s new Fitwell M1 micro-adjustable pin buckle with 3 mm adjustment increments.
It is a small but meaningful detail. Independent brands often focus so heavily on dial artistry that wearability becomes secondary. Here, the strap and clasp system appear designed with daily comfort in mind.
Technical Specifications
- Case: 316L stainless steel
- Diameter: 38 mm
- Thickness: 11.5 mm including crystal
- Lug-to-lug: 44.75 mm
- Water resistance: 100 meters
- Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire
- Movement: La Joux-Perret G101 automatic
- Power reserve: 68 hours
- Limited edition: 200 pieces per dial variant
- Strap: Jean Rousseau Alcantara with adjustable buckle
Final Thoughts
The Sơn Mài – Guilloché Main collection succeeds because it treats craftsmanship as the foundation of the watch rather than a decorative afterthought. Many modern artisan-focused releases rely heavily on storytelling, but here the techniques themselves shape the identity of the piece.
By combining hand-operated guilloché with traditional Vietnamese lacquer work, AWAKE has created a collection that feels culturally layered, technically interesting, and visually distinctive without becoming theatrical. The restrained 38 mm sizing and accessible pricing further strengthen the proposition, especially in a market where genuine métiers d’art execution is increasingly associated with far higher price points.
There is a quiet confidence to this collection. It does not attempt to overwhelm with complexity or spectacle. Instead, it focuses on texture, craftsmanship, proportion, and the human hand behind every detail. Rare qualities in modern watchmaking, where half the industry seems convinced another skeletonized tourbillon shaped like a lunar insect is what humanity truly needed.
