Federico Ziviani on Reinventing Gerald Charles | EyesOnTime

In this exclusive EyesOnTime conversation, Federico Ziviani reflects on innovation, heritage, and how Gerald Charles is shaping the future of modern independent watchmaking.

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Introduction

Born and raised in Milan, Federico Ziviani grew up immersed in fine watchmaking. His father, Franco Ziviani, was a long-standing distributor for Audemars Piguet, introducing him early to the discipline, culture, and craftsmanship of haute horlogerie.

After completing a degree in Business Administration and Management at Bayes Business School, Ziviani went on to earn a Master of Science in Computer Science from University College London, specialising in machine learning, artificial intelligence, and blockchain networks. This rare combination of heritage, business acumen, and advanced technology now defines his leadership approach.

In 2019, he became General Manager of Gerald Charles, a Maison founded in 2000 by Gérald Charles Genta in close collaboration with the Ziviani family. In 2023, he was appointed CEO.

EyesOnTime met Federico Ziviani at Dubai Watch Week to discuss innovation, legacy, and the long-term vision for Gerald Charles.

Engineering Before Design: A New Language for Modern Watchmaking

EyesOnTime: Gerald Genta was known for breaking rules. What rule in watchmaking are you most tempted to break next at Gerald Charles?

Federico Ziviani:
We are very focused on reinventing modern watchmaking finishing. A strong example of this is Meta-Guilloché, a new type of dial finishing that evolves from traditional guilloché.

Classical guilloché is executed using historic machines. Meta-Guilloché, instead, is created through a contemporary process we developed together with engineers from the biotechnology field. Using this method, we engrave more than 200,000 micro-lines on a single dial, creating light reflection up to ten times brighter than traditional guilloché.

This finishing was introduced on our anniversary Jumping Hour watch and represents our broader philosophy: respecting legacy while bringing it forward through modern engineering.

Reinterpreting Genta: From the Archive to the Masterlink

EyesOnTime: If you could bring Genta into the atelier today and show him one recent watch, which would surprise him most?

Federico Ziviani:
I believe he would be very happy to see the Masterlink.

 

It was the last integrated bracelet he designed, originally created as a unique gem-set piece in 2007 with around 40 carats of gold. We reinterpreted that vision into a steel version that is simpler to wear and suited to everyday life, while remaining true to his original idea.

Why Gerald Charles Deserves a Deeper Appreciation

EyesOnTime: What is the biggest misconception about Gerald Charles today?

Federico Ziviani:
Many people are drawn to our distinctive design. What I would love them to appreciate more deeply is the level of engineering behind our watches.

Engineering comes first for us; design follows technical architecture. Achieving a 2.7mm profile, a micro-rotor movement, 100 metres of water resistance, and excellent wearability in the Masterlink requires advanced watchmaking expertise. That savoir-faire defines Gerald Charles.

Inside the Archive: Unseen Genta Ideas

EyesOnTime: What is the most unexpected discovery in the Genta archive?

Federico Ziviani:
The archive is incredibly rich, with many ideas still unseen by the world. Visitors can already explore part of this universe at our museum in Dubai, where different shapes beyond the Maestro case are on display.

The sketches reveal complications, beautifully skeletonised bridges, and designs that remain highly relevant today. This patrimony gives us the foundation to build Gerald Charles for the next 100 years.

Evolving an Icon: The Maestro Case

EyesOnTime: What keeps you awake when evolving a design collectors consider untouchable?

Federico Ziviani:
The product is always at the centre of our thinking. We aim to make our watches more expressive from a watchmaking perspective.

We have a clear plan to introduce one new complication every year, each as a modern reinterpretation rather than a traditional execution. Our ambition is that the next best Gerald Charles watch is always the one still to come.

The Geneva Atelier: More Than Watchmaking

EyesOnTime: What emotion should visitors leave with after visiting the Geneva Atelier?

Federico Ziviani:
A strong sense of family. The Atelier is designed like our home.

Our family created Gerald Charles together with Gérald Genta in 2000. Passion is what we want visitors to feel — from Swiss-Italian hospitality and shared meals to direct conversations with our watchmakers, who openly explain their craft.

Looking 20 Years Ahead

EyesOnTime: What should remain the same — and what should change — in 20 years?

Federico Ziviani:
What will remain unchanged for the next 100 years is our ambition to create the best possible watches and to keep innovating.

Innovation is how we continue to create value and meaning. What we have at Gerald Charles is a treasure of immense historical and creative value, and our responsibility is to cultivate it for generations to come.

Closing Perspective

Through engineering-led innovation, deep respect for heritage, and a long-term vision, Gerald Charles continues to evolve as a modern independent Maison. Under Federico Ziviani’s leadership, the spirit of Gérald Charles Genta remains expressive, contemporary, and firmly focused on the future.

Published by Eyesontime

EyesOnTime, is a platform dedicated to horology and the culture of fine watches. With a blend of editorial storytelling and marketing expertise, EyesOnTime explores iconic luxury timepieces, disruptive independents, and the trends shaping the global watch industry.