OVERSEAS SELF-WINDING HIGH JEWELLERY First fully gem-set model for the Overseas 35 mm self-winding
Two new Overseas self-winding 35 mm pieces in 18K white gold and 18K 5N pink gold, fully set with 1,430 brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds.
Thank you for reading this post, don't forget to subscribe!Each model is presented with two additional, interchangeable straps in shiny alligator leather and rubber, with an interchangeable diamondset buckle.
The self-winding Manufacture movement, calibre 1088/1 with a 40- hour power reserve displays hours, minutes and central seconds, as well as the date in an aperture Vacheron Constantin opens a new chapter for the Overseas selfwinding 35 mm model, introducing two high-jewellery versions for the first time, in 18K white gold and in 18K 5N pink gold, powered by the Manufacture movement, calibre 1088/1. Originally created in 2023, the 35 mm Overseas case was conceived as a timepiece to suit all discerning wrists in any situation. Its more streamlined dimensions make it intrinsically comfortable to wear, while retaining all of the aesthetic codes and inherent functionality of its larger Overseas counterparts.
The dazzling craft of gem-setting
Vacheron Constantin has been on a quest for excellence in the art of gem-setting since the 19th century, when it added the craft to its repertoire of métiers d’art. At that time, timepieces were not only confined to a waistcoat pocket but were also worn as jewellery and fashion accessories. The new Overseas Self-Winding 35 mm
High Jewellery watch is adorned with a total of 1,430 diamonds (~12.58 cts) and combines two cuts: brilliant and baguette.
The Maltese cross motif on the bezel – a signature of the Overseas collection, inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s emblem – is highlighted by the radiance of 60 invisibly set baguette-cut diamonds (~ 2.28 cts). Invisible setting is particularly challenging for the gem-setter as it creates a seamlessly gem-covered surface on which the stones appear to float above the gold surface with no visible means of support. First, the gem-setter creates a framework of gold rails, only 0.2 mm to 0.4 mm thick, which forms a secure grid structure that remains hidden once the gemstones are slotted into it. After creating the frame, the artisan must cut a tiny V-shaped groove along both sides of each diamond, to match the position and dimensions of the rails with a tolerance of only 0.02 millimetres, thus ensuring that the stones sit flush, with no gaps, overlaps or visible metal. This setting technique is so meticulous that it can take several hours for just one stone.
The serene beauty of the invisibly set baguette stones contrasts with the multifaceted sparkle of brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial and 18K gold bracelet. The dial is elegant and functional, displaying only the essentials of time and date, in order to maximise the visual impact of the snow-set diamond background – comprising 314 brilliant-cut diamonds (~ 1.65 ct). Combining artistry and precision, snow setting is another highly demanding technique, in which the gemsetter covers the entire surface of the gold dial base in diamonds of varying diameter, set in an order that appears to be random. In fact, the placement of every stone must be meticulously judged, to leave an absolute minimum of metal between the stones so that the entire surface refracts and reflects the light, like the effect of the sun on a sparkling field of snowflakes. Against this glittering backdrop, 12 baguettecut diamonds serve as hour markers. The lugs and 18K gold bracelet are also snow-set, with a total of 884 brilliant-cut diamonds (~ 6.95 cts), with each link of the bracelet set separately before being carefully assembled.
One watch, three styles
Introduced to the Overseas collection in 2023, the 35 mm diameter case is designed not only to correspond with a modern aesthetic, but also to be suitable for any situation and comfortably worn by everyone regardless of wrist size. Its versatility is underlined by the easy interchangeability of its diamond-set gold bracelet and two straps that are delivered with the watch: one in white rubber and one in shiny alligator leather. Adding a vivid splash of colour to the otherwise monochrome palette of the watch, the white gold model comes with a brilliant blue alligator-skin strap, while the pink gold model is delivered with a fuchsia-coloured alligator-skin strap. Each is secured with an 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold pin buckle to match the case metal; set with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.33 ct), the buckle may also be interchanged to fit another strap of the owner’s choice. As with all Overseas models, the owner needs no tool to easily and quickly change the bracelet, straps or buckle at will. Echoing the Maltese Cross motif found on the bezel the bracelets are outfitted with the easy-fit system inherent to the Overseas collection since 2016, a hidden micro-adjustment that provides the wearer with flawless comfort.
Vacheron Constantin’s self-winding calibre 1088/1
Calibre 1088/1 sets the pace for the Overseas SelfWinding High Jewellery, driving the hours, minutes, central seconds and date in an aperture. The central seconds is also outfitted with a stop-seconds function, ensuring to-the-second accuracy when setting the time. The 144-component automatic movement operates at a frequency of 4Hz and is equipped with a 40-hour power reserve. Visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back, the movement is very finely finished and features visible Côtes de Genève decoration and bevelled bridges, as well as the Overseas collection’s emblematic 22K gold rotor adorned with a compass rose.
Technical data OVERSEAS SELF-WINDING HIGH JEWELLERY
References 4617V/215G – H039 (white gold)
4617V/215R – H040 (pink gold)
Calibre 1088/1
Manufacture calibre
Mechanical, self-winding
20.8 mm (9’’’) in diameter, 3.83 mm thick
Approximately 40-hour power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
144 components
24 jewels
Indications Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Case 18K white gold / 18K 5N pink gold
35 mm in diameter; 8.43 mm thick
158 diamonds (~3.31 cts): 60 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel (~ 2.28 cts) and 98 brilliant-cutdiamonds (~1.03 ct)
Screwed down crown
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 5 bar (approx. 50 metres)
Dial Fully set with 314 brilliant-cut diamonds (~1.65 ct)
Hour-markers
and hands 18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold hours and minutes hands, highlighted with blue Super-Luminova®
(Vacheron Constantin is not the owner of the Super-LumiNova® trademarks. These marks are owned by a third party)
12 baguette-cut diamond hour-markers (~0.32 ct)
Bracelet 18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold
884 brilliant-cut diamonds (~6.95 cts)
Self-interchangeable system integrated
Easy-fit system
Additional straps Brilliant blue alligator (white gold), fuchsia alligator (pink gold) – White rubber
Buckle Interchangeable 18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold pin buckle
62 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.33 ct)
Total of diamonds 1,430 diamonds for a total of ~12.58 carats (minimum guaranteed)
