Montblanc captures the elegant, artistic spirit of la femme bohème in every detail of its new Perpetual Calendar timepiece.
In Montblanc’s storied manufactures in Le Locle and Villeret, master watchmakers and artisans bring together traditional Swiss horology with modern decorative techniques to create the new 36mm Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar. From the printed watercolour moon phase disc, to the machine-stamped “star trail” (filé d’étoiles) outer dial, and the highly technical field of micro-diamonds that forms the inner dial, the Bohème Perpetual Calendar represents Montblanc’s dedication to both traditional handcrafts and state-of-the-art material processes that define Swiss watchmaking in the 21st century.
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An Elegantly Feminine Visage
The fully mechanical perpetual calendar complication is presented in a flattering 36mm case in either solid rose gold 750/1000 (18 karats) or in a striking bi-metal construction combining stainless steel and rose gold 750/1000 (18 karats). The size has been selected to suit women’s wrists while also offering the appropriate proportions for the perpetual calendar’s various functions to express themselves on the complex, yet very legible dial.
Bringing form and function together like this requires for Montblanc’s designers to carefully place each mechanical function on the dial in order to achieve visual harmony. Discerning collectors will note the thoughtful placement of the four sub dials, as well as the way they gently overlap the outer hour track, a small intrusion that subtly transforms this typically technical and masculine dial configuration into an organic and feminine visage.
Diamonds Like a Night Sky
The four sub dials, indicating the day, date, month, leap year cycle and phases of the moon, float in a dazzling field formed from thousands of micro-diamonds. Rather than using traditional “diamond powder”, Montblanc has elected to deploy a highly technical process by which the tiny diamonds are set side-by-side to create a uniform surface that is then covered with a bright metallic PVD coating. The result is a completely flat, sparkling, dark grey surface. Reminiscent of the countless stars in the night sky, this treatment creates the backdrop for this perpetual calendar complication that tracks the elaborate movements of our solar system with precision.
A Trail of Stars to Tell the Time
Around that inner dial is the white-silver hour track. This is created using a specific stamping method to create a pattern called filé d’étoiles – trail of stars. The pattern was inspired by long-exposure photographs of the night sky, often called Astro photographs, that reveal the stars as streaks of light. The stars, of course, aren’t moving; rather, these stunning photographs document the Earth’s daily rotation, the same planetary dance that has fascinated watchmakers for centuries and which forms the underlying logic of the perpetual calendar complication.
The Long Cycles of Time
While deeply complicated and elaborately decorated, the dial remains highly legible. Hours are highlighted by Floral Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12, while traditional trapezoidal indicators occupy the intermediary positions. Elegant rose gold-coated leaf hands reach just far enough to make at-a-glance time-telling intuitive.
Indications in Handwritten Style
In its form, the Bohème Perpetual Calendar also pays subtle homage to the beauty of handwriting. A closer look at the three upper-sub dials reveals the indications in a font reminiscent of handwriting, celebrating Montblanc’s writing culture heritage.
A Watercolour Moon in a Watercolour Sky
All of this sets the scene for the moon-phase complication. Located within the 6 o’clock sub dial, the phases of the moon are indicated along with the long-range calendar that will remain accurate until the year 2100 (when the Gregorian calendar will ignore a leap year to compensate for accumulated annual deviations).
The moon-phase disc found on the Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar has been crafted using serigraphy, with the pattern and colours based on an interpretation of watercolours that adds a further romantic touch to this central feature.
A Bezel Full of Choice Diamonds
Whether choosing the rose-gold 750/1000 (18 karats) model or the bi-metal version, the rose gold 750/1000 (18 karats) bezel of the Bohème Perpetual Calendar is fitted with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds. Each diamond meets or exceeds the V. S. rating for clarity as well as the inclusion in at least the Top Wesselton category for whiteness.
It is worth noting that the 60 diamonds surrounding the dial also act as a precise minute-track. While every aesthetic feature of the Bohème Perpetual Calendar is sophisticated and highly decorative, precision timekeeping is always at the heart of the timepiece.
Achieving High Complication With Calibre MB 29.15
Montblanc’s calibre MB 29.15 offers the full suite of perpetual calendar features, including the hour and minutes, the day of the week, the month, a leap year indicator and the watercolour interpretation moon-phase. This watch will not need to be reset until March 2100, and it holds 42-hours’ worth of mechanical power when fully wound. Adjustments, when needed, are activated intuitively using correctors on mid-case.
Each MB 29.15 movement undergoes rigorous Montblanc laboratory test in the manufacture of Le Locle in order to ensure the ultimate in precision timekeeping.
Three Straps for Every Mood
The Bohème Perpetual Calendar comes with three interchangeable straps: a beige calfskin strap with alligator print, a smooth black calfskin strap, and a burgundy-tone calfskin strap, rounding out the versatility of the timepiece.
Montblanc Bohème Perpetual Calendar 36mm
Movement Calibre MB 29.15
Type of movement Mechanical movement with automatic winding mechanism
Number of jewels 25
Power reserve Approx. 42 hours
Balance Flat hoop
Frequency 28,800 A/h (4 Hz)
Hairspring Flat
Displays Hours, minutes from the center
Perpetual calendar with month by hand and leap year cycle by disc at 12 o’clock
Day by hand at 9 o’clock
Date by hand at 3 o’clock
Moon phase in a window at 6 o’clock
Habillage
Case Stainless steel case with a rose gold 750/1000 (18 karats) bezel set with 60 brillant-cut diamonds (approx.0.9carat)
Crystal Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Back Stainless steel with inset pane of sapphire crystal
Dimensions Diameter = 36 mm; height = 10.05 mm
Water-resistance 3 bar (30 m)
Crown rose gold 750/1000 (18 karats) with Montblanc emblem
Dial Silver-white dial adorned with rose gold-coated Arabic numerals, indexes and leaf-shaped hands
Micro diamonds surface (approx. 0.14 carat) in the center, filet sauté pattern and filé d ’étoiles effect on the outside of the dial.
Wristband* Delivered with 3 straps:
Beige interchangeable calf leather strap with alligator print
Black interchangeable calf leather strap
Burgundy-tone interchangeable calf leather strap with alligator print, shiny finish
With stainless steel pin buckle
Limited Edition No
